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TRAVELLERS FRIEND » ANGOLA | | MOZAMBIQUE | NAMIBIA | | NEW! » www.zambezitraveller.com Issue 08

CONSERVATION

03 Environment The Livingstone lion Plans to dredge the By Peter Roberts canned he appearance of a wild lion on the outskirts of TLivingstone in Zambia 09 Conservation (see story on page 32) made Boteti River big news for several reasons. flows again Not only was he the first wild lion to been reported in the immediate area for some 30 years, and he made the mistake of claiming domestic livestock as fair game (never 17 Adventure good for local public rela- How safe tions if you are lion), but his is bungee subsequent capture revealed jumping? an amazing story. This lion was a Zambezi traveller! It was only after the lion was successfully captured that 28 History wildlife officials discovered Mystery he was the proud owner of a and magic in GPS research collar. Enquir- Matobo ies revealed that the collar had been fitted by lion researchers in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, and somehow 34 Art & Crafts he must have crossed the Rhythms of Zambezi River to reach the changing north bank. times Through the collar GPS data and the Hwange Lion Research Project’s valuable work over many years we are lucky enough to have a huge 46 Conservation amount of information about Celebrating our travelling lion’s history. PHOTO: MARLEEN POST Jane Hunt, who has dedicated Dynamite, the male lion who became a Zambezi Traveller, on his home patch in Hwange in a photograph taken last year. Painted wolves the last 10 years of her life to studying lions in Hwange, first saw this lion when he was The story of an amazing Zambezi traveller a two month old cub. He is “He’s a famous lion,” said Jane . Not only does increasingly populated Africa, researchers studying Africa’s now about 9 ½ years old, the “now even more so because of the river provide a formidable offspring of a male lion who most significantly loss of habi- increasingly pressured wild- Regulars his travels!” obstacle, the crossing is even tat with suitable prey species life. See our special feature on dominated the Makalolo area Cahorra & Tete 3, Okavango 9, of Hwange National Park for Known as Dynamite, after more incredible as lions are and subsequent conflict with page 16 for full details of his Chobe 10, Hwange 14, Victoria many years, and featured in a the pan in Hwange where he not renowned swimmers and humans, as well as raising amazing journey and more Falls 17, 28, National Geographic docu- was first collared by research- will often avoid water. 29, Luangwa 30, Livingstone 31, mentary film ‘Lion’s behaving ers, we now know he crossed many issues relating to wider on lion conservation and the Kariba 37, 45, Letters 47 badly.’ Indeed this specific lion the Zambezi more than 50 His plight highlights the lion conservation and spot- work of the Hwange Lion is also featured in that film. kilometres downstream of the problems lions face in an lighting the work of scientific Research team.

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TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River 3

ENVIRONMENT Plans to dredge the Zambezi canned

PHOTOS: Gigi Guimbeau Life along the Zambezi The Minister of Transport has said that Source: Club Of Riversdale had pro- Mozambique has rejected an environmental “We are working at high are planned and who will ben- Mozambique News posed to initially move two speed to get financing. By the efit to ensure all the projects million tonnes of coal per year plan submitted last year by Riversdale, now end of this year we will reach expected to come online in via barges to the port at Beira 10 million tonnes of capac- coming years will get access to ozambique has and build that up to around owned by Rio Tinto, for moving coal via barges ity on the Sena line; next year ports and rail. rejected an envi- 12 million tonnes. we will start rehabilitating Mronmental plan down the Zambezi River. Nacala port and build two For now miners without submitted last year by Riv- “The impact was seen to new railways.” capacity on the Sena line be very negative, and there may have to rely on trucks to ersdale, now owned by Rio He said it was as much a Tinto, for moving coal via were no plans for mitigation. get their product to port and As proposed it is not doable,” priority for Mozambique as it need to plan the production barges down the Zambezi was for the miners to get the River, its Transport Minister Minister Paulo Zucula told Rio Tinto declined to com- million tonnes on the Sena of their mines in line with news agency Reuters in a rail lines and ports built. available facilities. has said. ment. Zucula said the company railway line linking Tete with phone interview. was welcome to resubmit its Beira, but Mozambique has “Coal is a development So far Brazil’s Vale is the Mozambique’s woeful “The Zambezi River ... study, although he stressed plans to expand the Sena project for us, so we are a most only miner exporting coal infrastructure poses the big- every four years we have prob- that Mozambique would line and build and upgrade interested party. The planning from Mozambique. The miner gest challenge for miners lems with flooding and killing much prefer that companies other rail lines and ports in of infrastructure and the mine has said it will invest $4.4 bil- who have invested in the Tete people. So if you’re going to opt to move their coal by rail. the country. plans do not match yet, but lion to build a coal terminal at “If you compare the two in we are making every effort to province, which is estimated dredge the river, expand the “We can assure everybody the deep-water port at Nacala to hold one of the world’s big- terms of environment, the dif- that we will build enough make it match,” he said. banks, we will be in trouble,” ference is huge,” he said. and a rail line via Malawi to gest reserves of coking coal, yet he said. The barges were also rail capacity to carry their Mozambique is planning link Nacala with its mines. lack options for getting their expected to affect the local Current rail infrastructure coal. The problem is timing,” to establish a framework for product to the port. fish ecology. is limited to a capacity of six Zucula said. how infrastructure projects Visit www.clubofmozambique.com

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BUSINESS Investing in Mozambique becoming an increasingly The country’s legal tradi- the investment being made. As the number of investors By ACIS Mozambique attractive tourist destination, tion follows that of Portugal, While it is not for exam- grows, so does the number many people are showing an and is a civil law system, which ple possible to buy a ‘shelf of reputable organizations ozambique’s econ- interest in investing. tends to be less familiar to company’ in Mozambique, available to assist them. omy is growing There are a number of people in the region. In addi- investors can consider opening Comprehensive information rapidly and many tion Mozambique’s legal M things which need to be taken their own company, or buying about registration of compa- people are showing an inter- framework, while regularly into account when taking the shares (known as quotas) in an nies, environmental and land est in investing. Professional being updated, still tends to decision to invest. Perhaps existing company. licensing, employment and advice is strongly recom- most obvious among these are be bureaucratic. mended to save mistakes and It is important to seek immigration procedures and the questions of language and Prospective investors qualified legal advice; while tourism investments, among expense in the long term. law. Mozambique’s official should not be discouraged; it this may seem expensive in others, is made available by The Mozambican econ- language is Portuguese and is perfectly possible to incor- the short term, it is a worth- such organizations, which also omy is growing rapidly. With all official documents must porate a company for any while investment to ensure new discoveries of mineral be prepared and managed in type of investment and to do have a database of reputable that all the relevant licenses resources and the country this language. so in such a way as to protect professionals including law- are obtained. This is particu- yers, auditors and translators. larly important when buying into an existing company, Mozambique is defi- and extensive due diligence nitely open for business and V i d ucich is recommended. welcomes investors in this Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete TEL +258 252 20443 CELL ++258 82 8723734 email rob@tetefitmentcentre.com exciting economy. Investors should allow PHOTO: J on PHOTO: Firestone and Bridgestone tyres plenty of time as bureaucratic Visit www.acismoz.com Tyre Fitment procedures can be myriad depending on the type of Email: [email protected] Wheel Balancing investment. It is important Puncture repairs to fully understand the con- Tel– 0258 23 325 997 Right behind Major Drilling tent of any document, and ACIS is a Mozambican business association it is worth having key docu- offering services such as information, advocacy and networking, through the medium of ments translated by a qualified English, to existing and potential investors. professional to be sure of ACIS – Better Business Together www.acismoz.com the content.

BUSINESS FUCHS LUBRIFICANTES Agora a venda em Tete Fuchs Lubricants now in Tete, Mozambique Oleos para Motores By ZT Correspondent Fuchs is the largest inde- Fuchs Lubricants have pendent lubricants company been manufacturing special- Oleos de Transmissão in the world, and specialists in ized greases for the mining nvestment in plant and Oleos Hidraulicos automotive, mining, industrial industry since1910 and are Massa Lubrificacão equipment is extensive market leaders in their field. FUCHS PHOTO: and any breakdown can and agricultural lubrication. Fluido de Transmissão I The Noxal brand of greases technical expertise to be crippling to even the Fuchs products are and rope dressings and the Automático minimize expensive plant largest company. Buying designed to operate under the Ceplattyn range of open gear and vehicle breakdowns. Oleo fora de Bordo cheaper sub standard harshest of conditions and lubes are approved on mills A concerted effort is con- Oleo de Travão lubricants is false economy provide maximum protection and crushers throughout the stantly being made to Oleo dois Tempo when considering the cost to equipment. mining industry. Fuchs has a reduce the carbon footprint of downtime and overhaul product for all open cast and and minimize damage to of expensive engines and The products in our range underground mining applica- the environment. carry approvals from a wide gearboxes. Fuchs have tions from automated greasing This ongoing develop- come into the Tete market range of international automo- systems to hydraulic oils. ment process ensures that Atrás de Major Drilling, E.N.7, knowing that they can tive and industrial equipment Fuchs are committed to Fuchs Lubricants will Bairro Matundo, Tete manufacturers including meet or exceed the future Email: [email protected] provide the best products providing the best qual- Cell : +258 82 509 3330 on the market. Daimler Chrysler and Porche. ity products, backed by requirements of industry. ...styling

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6 Travellers Friend zambezi cahora bassa & tete Zambezi Traveller The wonderful business women of Tete Tete, Mozambique, a city known for its blistering obstacle. She loves the city’s heat and burgeoning coal economy, is considered vibe, explaining that Tete has by many to be a place best suited to men. given her great opportunity to live and feel free. By Gigi Guimbeau Bébé Missanga has trans- formed a run-down car wash Bébé Quote: If you can’t make it in on the banks of the Zambezi Tete, you won’t make it anywhere! t least 52 different The opportunities are ripe for nationalities are repre- into an incredible restaurant, the picking. Asented in the province, offering amazing food with with a colorful mix of first a stunning view of Tete’s Debbie Killoran and third world cultures. It’s picturesque bridge. Never Say Never a place where any mistakes ive and a half years can result in huge costs; a cut- The name of the Cigana ago, Debbie Killoran throat environment where Restaurant (cigana means only the careful and persever- gypsy) reflects Missanga’s Fand a friend travelled Marisa Braga Bébé Missanga Jenni Bekker ant succeed. from Vilanculos to Tete in a long and challenging jour- dhow that had been hastily Café del Rio on the banks of her business in 2011. Friends Braga loves what the rapidly Despite the myriad chal- ney to the establishment’s transformed into a sea-going the Zambezi. had suggested she come and expanding city of Tete has pre- lenges, many brave women, opening day, though she says vessel. After sailing along look at the opportunities sented her with - many friends including those highlighted Killoran is very excited that the experience has been 1000 kms of coastline and about the possibilities that Tete had to offer, and she has and many opportunities. here, have come to this pio- largely positive. 600 kms upriver, Killoran Tete has to offer right now, as never left. neering city to seek their arrived in Tete with only a fortunes. They have either As a newcomer to the city, it grows rapidly in both size Marisa Quote: “I belong to the kit bag. Braga started off small, started businesses of their Missanga views the expatri- and opportunity. winners’ world!.” doing outside catering, and her own or play an important role ate community in Tete as a She bought a guesthouse, alongside their partners, and Casa Branca, which came Debbie Quote: There is huge risk in business has expanded rapidly. large family, and her care for doing business in Mozambique, so Graziela de Souza many are truly thriving in their with a rather questionable She now owns two chicken her wide-ranging clientele is make sure you do things right. Where the Universe Leads new lives. past. With the help of friends takeaways called Kasekome, evident as she warmly greets and her plucky, never say never raziela de Souza has We salute you… meaning ‘We eat here,’ on guests between trips to the attitude, the adventurous Marisa Braga travelled the world kitchen and open-air bar. woman started what became Belong With The Winners either side of the Tete bridge, Gworking for the Bébé Missanga a remarkable transformation. arisa Braga was born and she still does outside cater- United Nations and the World While doing business in Create the Moment! She now owns 12 guesthouses, in Moatize, has ing for any type of function. Bank, to name two, and has Tete presents real difficulties n the short year since which keeps her incredibly Mlived and worked all Her aim is to do 3000 meals bravely faced the wild frontier her arrival in Tete from for anyone, Missanga says that busy, and she has also helped around the world, and finally per day and she is fast reaching of Tete. IAngola, bubbly, tireless being a woman isn’t really an oversee and build the amazing landed back in Tete, opening her goal. De Souza moved to Tete “Small beginnings turn into from Maputo with just 24hr US$10,000. She paid rent up SERVICE larger futures,” she says. Braga Cigana Restaurant front for six months and voila, the taste of mo is a positive, strong and deter- A stunning location on the banks of the Zambezi ate zam mined lady and nothing will the birth of Thee Deli, a deli- where one can enjoy tasty Portuguese cuisine with the br biq catessen selling food products le u hold her back. She is a single gentle sound of Latino music in the background. ce e from around the world. mother with commitments at Convivial Bar | Good Music | Live Entertainment | Functions home and in the work place. After many setbacks she also started a restaurant, Progress has brought its La Bella Italia, which also challenges, but the positives includes outside catering for far outweigh the negatives. private functions. KASEKOME TAKEAWAY

+258 252 20323 +258 84 724 6435 Our 1st Anniversary! [email protected] Everyone knows there is nothing like a good peri peri Tete, Moçambique | www.villahabsburg.com chicken available for you any time you need it. We cater for small or large functions. It is very easy to nd us, cross over the bridge, heading to Zambia/Malawi, turn right immediately after crossing, then turn left and follow the road along Av da Independencia, Opposite FNB - Tete the Zambezi River, Cigana is approximately one kilometer down the road. Phone: Tel: 84 7440376 / 82 27 64 340/ 84 71 38 911 + 258 846596806 | [email protected]

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CONSERVATION Easy tips to help our river Even the mighty Zambezi, symbol of wild Africa, is being affected by pollu- tion. A timely reminder on the three The wonderful business women of Tete ‘R’s of ecological responsibility – Nikki Killoran Reduce, Re-use and Recycle. Once In A Lifetime ikki Kil- loran is a By Tash Morgan Ntalented woman with incredible energy and enthusiasm. Her mother, essages of impending doom concerning air Debbie, who began build- pollution, water contamination and green- ing Café Del Rio a few years Mhouse gases seem applicable to some far-off ago, offered her this “once place, and irrelevant to you and I. However, studies have G uimbeau in a lifetime” opportunity, shown that the Zambezi River is facing major ecologi- and the young entrepreneur cal challenges including pollution from litter, sewage grabbed it with both hands. PHOTOS: G igi PHOTOS: effluent, agricultural run-off, and mine waste. Debbie Killoran Graziela de Souza Nikki Killoran After years spent travelling and working all over the world, Pollution causes unseen environmental damage such She will go out of her way razor write, palisade and Tete, Mozambique. On arrival Killoran is surprised to finally as oxygen depletion of the river water, affecting animal to find anything you need. She electric), plastic water tanks and she negotiated to buy a piece be settling down in Tete. She and plant populations. River pollution also facilitates the aims to provide an oasis on spread of diseases associated with poor hygiene such as flies in sushi once a week for a car ports. of land on the banks of the customer, a small example of the banks of the Zambezi; cholera, typhus and dysentery. New facilities and new Zambezi River, from a “very her dedication to serving the an “African moment” to take companies are opening daily away. It certainly is that. She Experts say that pollution in the Zambezi basin had needs of the community. nice old family with no funny in Tete and “it’s so wonder- has decorated the café beau- reached appalling proportions. So, what can you do business going on.” As founder and current ful being part of all this,” says tifully, creating incredible to take responsibility for your own waste, and make a president of the Lions Club in Bekker. She is an equal share- The building of a guest artwork, lighting and furniture positive change to your immediate river environment? using locally-sourced woods Maputo, de Souza has worked holder in the company with house then started, which Practice the three ‘R’s, Reduce, Re-use and Recycle, and to bring the club to Tete her husband, and she holds and products. isn’t as easy as it sounds. It has you’ll be well on your way. as well. her ground in the man’s world Killoran has had to train now been running for a few staff from “below ground Reduce Juggling these businesses of Tete. years and is absolutely beau- zero,” and seeing what they Your choices make a difference! Reducing the amount and being a single mum of Bekker is currently doing now produce has been her of plastic you purchase assists in waste management, three is not easy, but she an international certificate tiful, with four rooms which greatest delight. As she says, and increases the chances of maintaining and rehabili- does it with grace, dignity Health and Safety, and fits are comfortable, cool and opening the café has required tating our environment. For example, buy tinned cold and a quiet strength in a very in other courses which ben- filled with gorgeous furniture patience as long and endless as drinks, instead of plastic bottled cold drinks; high quality tough enviroment. efit the company. She is and art. the mighty Zambezi. fluent in Portugese and says it products instead of poor quality plastic items that break Graziela Quote : To all women out helps tremendously. Monika Quote : Be flexible. Pay Quote : Make something incredibly easily and will be thrown away; items that offer reduced there, “get up and do something; attention to what’s happening well that people will keep coming packaging, etc. don’t be afraid to try.” Jenni Quote : If you make your envi- around you. back for. ronment pleasant, you can live Re-use Jenni Bekker anywhere. Re-use your plastic shopping packets, or thicker, stronger plastic or fabric bags. Take these with you Being Part Of All This Monika von Habsburg when you do your shopping, and ask the cashier, or enni Bekker has an Be Flexible; Pay Attention MOSQUITO NETS packing attendant, to use them to pack your purchases inspiring, positive and hat an inspira- upbeat personality, into instead of the plastic bags provided. You will auto- J tion this dynamic matically reduce the number of plastic bags littering our something that will take you 72-year-old lady far in Tete. She is afraid of W streets, clogging up drains, polluting the river, etc. nothing and tackles anything is! Three years ago Monika Recycle head-on. von Habsburg’s son said to Recycling projects are easy, fun, and can provide end- Bekker and her husband, her, “Mother, if you are bored less hours of entertainment for the whole family. Let Brendon, moved to Tete from there is lots happening in Tete, your creativity take flight by making a cooler box out of Chimoio, sensing new oppor- so please come and join us,” polystyrene packing material; beer mats or coasters out tunities here. Their business and join him she did. of woven plastic bags; jewellery out of bottle tops; musi- has gone from strength cal instruments out of tin cans, cereal boxes, and string; She proceeded to pack up to strength and includes etc. Recycling makes a huge difference to our environ- her entire life in Scotland, steel sheds (pre-fabricated ment by removing potentially harmful items from it, and or custom made), fencing including many beautiful turning them in to something useful. (security, game, barbed or antiques, and shipped it all to [email protected]

Bulk sale of Meat and Chicken Relax by the tranquility of the Zambezi Products Thee Deli We stock Meats Prosciutos Salamis Variety of Cheeses(Fresh & Smoked Mozzarella, Blue Cheese, Mature Cheddar) Olive Oils Salmon (Fresh & Smoked) Anchovies Various Seafoods Artichokes Pickled bringels Mushrooms Onions Peppers Ostrich or Springbok Carpaccio Biltongs Cheese Grillers Smoked & Plain Spare Ribs Sushi Fresh Vegetables & Fruits Fresh Mozzarela and Fresh Milk(By Order). We provide a delivery service. Cell: +258 843718940, Tel: +258 21 252 2 3308, Fax: + 258 252 23308/7 Email: [email protected] Address: Avenida da Independencia #926

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Specialists in Pasta Dishes & Pizzas Come and enjoy a luxurious dining experience Raviolis, pastas with salmon, Carpaccio, Tiramissu & cheese cake. We have the best pizza's in town. We cater for private Nicolette +258 847492380 Address: Zambezi North Bank, Tete Our food is fresh lean and tasty. A delicacy is our Panzerrotti functions as well and Rossi & Funghi (pasta with dried Mushrooms). Cross over the bridge, heading to Zambia/Malawi, can alter our menu to Turn right immediately after crossing, Turn left, follow the road along cater for various the Zambezi River, nd us approximately 1.5 kilometers down the road. Cell: +258 828 338 942 / +258 848249056 / +258 824005820 / +258 843718940 Tel: +258 21 252 2821, Fax: +258 252 23308/7 Email: gratsie2002yahoo.com requirements Address: Avenida Eduardo Moldlane, Tete - Almost adjacent to Home Centre 8 Travellers Friend zambezi cahora bassa & tete Zambezi Traveller

CULTURE PHOTOGRAPHY A ghostly Join Tete’s photo club

d W elthagen nan d encounter far PHOTO: Wy PHOTO: Gule Wamkulu spotted on the road from anywhere between Furancungo and Cazulo avoid any encounters with By Tash Morgan Gule Wamkulu dances are commonly performed in the them. More common in the season following the harvest afternoon, they are a strong n the mood for adventure, in July. However, they also incentive for attending to all we recently decided to accompany initiation cer- business outside the home in return to Tete from Dedza I emonies, weddings, funerals, the early hours. via Furancungo, and were lucky enough to encounter a and the installation or death While many traditional of a chief. On these occasions, ghostly group of Gule Wam- forms of song and dance Following the World Cup in , a group of boys began playing pick-up soccer games in my yard kulu who appeared beside us Nyau dancers wear costumes across the globe are eroding, every evening. I love the interplay between lighting, dust and action in this shot. on the road. and masks made of wood, the Chewa have managed to straw and animal skins. The road less travelled incorporate modern elements is often more exciting Gule dancers play a variety into Gule Wamkulu, such and rewarding than the of evil characters that represent as masked representations beaten track. certain forms of misbehaviour of politicians, public policy Although long, it proved to in order to teach moral and issues, HIV, globalization be a worthy detour, not only social values to the audience. and technology. for the cool, fresh, mountain They perform movements It’s estimated that more air and magnificent views with extraordinary energy, than a thousand different Gule over the valley at sunset, but entertaining and scaring the mask types exist, including also because we were lucky (or audience as representatives helicopters and television sets. some would consider unlucky) of the world of spirits and V i d ucich to encounter a ghostly group of This wide range of symbolism the dead. Only the chief who ensures an active connec- Gule Wamkulu who appeared, appointed them to drive away as if by magic, beside us on tion between the characters J on PHOTO: evil spirits from the village the road. and the audience. However, knows who they are. there is some concern that I love the drama and whimsy that baobabs add to any shot, and, fortunately, there are plenty of The Chewa believe that them in Tete! I took this from atop a grain elevator just outside of Tete City. living things were created Gule dancers are consid- this vibrant living tradition is ered to be in an unpredictable at threat from lack of interest by Chiuta (God) on the As an aspiring artist living in Tete, with ideas and questions, and mountain of Kapirintiwa animal or ancestral state, and among young people, and the By Gigi Guimbeau which borders Malawi and are not to be approached. If lack of appreciation for the I was determined to discover we’ve formed a club around value of this traditional prac- something beautiful in this area, our common passion. Mozambique. Ancestors one has the misfortune of Photography enthusiasts form and spirits of animals, and tice to Chewa culture. and struck out with a fellow pho- passing a Gule on the road, it a club and find subjects in It’s been wonderful to learn plants, interact with the living tography enthusiast one Saturday is tradition to drop a few coins So, should you happen to Tete, Mozambique. new techniques from each world primarily through the for them – never handing them last year to begin taking photos. other, and to spend week- dancing of those initiated cross paths with a group of Most outsiders regard Tete as a the money directly for fear they I’ve made two surprising discov- ends exploring the city and to Nyau, or secret societies. Gule Wamkulu on a dusty hot, dusty, inhospitable locale, will grab you and take you for Mozambiquan afternoon, be eries in the months since: Tete surrounding areas together. Gule Wamkulu, literally ritual offerings. wholly devoid of beauty. With meaning ‘big dance,’ have sure to show your respects by competing natural wonders is full of dramatic and stunning New visitors of all skill levels become representatives for Gule dancers may appear dropping a few coins for them like Victoria Falls and Lake scenes, if you keep your eyes are always welcome to join secret societies of traditional in small groups of four or five before they slip back into Malawi, it’s hard to imagine open, and there’s actually quite us, so look up our club if you’re Chewa religious practices. and villagers do their best to the shadows. foreigners visiting the city with a community of photographers in town, and don’t forget the hope of enjoying anything in town! After creating a photog- your camera! but the economic opportu- raphy blog www.snappingafrica. nities offered by the region’s blogspot.com to share my shots, Visit http://www.snappingaf- NEWS recent growth. many others have contacted me rica.blogspot.com/ No more coal licenses The Mozambican government has announced that, for the time being at least, it will not Dust Suppression Solutions issue any more licenses for Are you an expatriate living & working coal exploration or mining in in Mozambique/Tete? the western province of Tete. Dont wait for the dust to settle !!! Long term dust management Are you paid in a foreign currency ~ £/$/euros? Test well drilled by Anadarko solutions for haul Do you have an offshore bank account in the Petroleum confirms existence roads and DustacDustac DustDust tra cable currency you earn in? of natural gas in Rovuma The Lagosta 3 test well drilled areas Do you want to save and build wealth in by Anadarko Petroleum hard/foreign currencies offshore? SuppressantSuppressant in the Rovuma Basin has NNaatuturralal pprroduoducctt been concluded with very basebase The deVere Group specialise in: positive results that con- EEnnvivirronmeonmenntallytally firm the size of the seam sustainablesustainable Offshore Banking and reserves of natural gas Offshore Retirement & Education Planning Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete. We are right behind Major Drilling found there. Tel: +258 252 20272 Cell: +258 82 805 5054 +258 82 509 3330 email: [email protected] or [email protected] Currency Trading (Forex) Life & Medical Insurance General Wealth Management Mozambique Trading Company Limitada Estrada Nacional 7, Bairro Matundo, Tete Tel: +258 252 20268 Mozambique Office: deVere Group, 420 Edificio, Cell: +258 82 509 3330 email: [email protected] Jat 1, Ave 25 Setembro, Maputo, Caixa Postal 928. RIGHT BEHIND MAJOR DRILLING! Tete Contact: Thomas Roberts, +258 844 388 598. Email: [email protected] AMC (SAMCHEM) DRILLING FLUIDS

CLM Transport Lda specialises in the transport of containerised and dry bulk cargoes throughout South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia and Malawi. We pride ourselves in building strong relationships and being your business partner rather than your supplier.

Brendan: + 258 82 509 3930 | Thom: + 258 82 305 7711 Email: [email protected] www.clmtransport.com Okavango on your way to the Zambezi 9

CONSERVATION The Boteti River f lows again We look at nature tak- “Almost ten years down ing its course and man the road we look back at a making a difference. dramatic process that turned a serious human/wildlife conflict By Frances Jackson zone from a dead end into an impressive model for intelli- avid Dugmore, MD gent responsible and sustain- of Meno A Kwena able tourism” says Dugmore. Dcomments: “There is still a lot to do, and “The arrival of the Oka- because of this we have started vango Delta waters along Conservation Safaris.” the Boteti River at Meno A Elephants dominate our waterhole while zebra desperately wait Elephants swim where once they competed for limited pumped water Kwena was the most special moment I have ever experi- OBITUARY enced after a decade of seeing so much desperation for water We salute Trevor Foster amongst so much wildlife. The dependence of wildlife on our limited, yet so very precious water was almost too much to bear as we help- lessly watched many animals dying of thirst and starvation. To hear the sounds at night of thousands of animals trying to suck water from damp earth The view of Nunda from the river PHOTOS: NUNDA was so sad, yet as long as our diesel pumps could be heard By ZT Correspondent we knew we were doing as On 15 February 2012, Trevor Ronald Foster, part owner of much as we could. The intense Nunda River Lodge, Kavango, Namibia, passed away peace- pressure on us to make sure fully in his sleep at the age of 68. water was supplied efficiently Trevor was born in South Africa and studied engineering in and sufficiently for wildlife, Cape Town. In 1963 he arrived in South West Africa where PHOTOS: MENO-A-KWENA while keeping guests enter- he spent his years in the engineering field as well as the Environmental education support by Meno A Kwena Tented Camp tained and the community fishing industry in Walvis Bay. He also consulted to various MORE ONLINE fishing companies throughout the world and in particular supportive was unbelievable, South America. Read Zambezi Traveller’s yet we prevailed, convinced interview with David Dug- His love and passion for the outdoors led him throughout the river would flow before we Africa and his vision was to build and operate a lodge where more on-line. Discover collapsed and gave up.” he could spend his retirement years. After travelling through how an area that was deci- mated of game because Veterinary fences, competi- Africa for three years looking for the right place, he chose the banks of the Okavango River, Namibia. In 2006 the ground animals could not follow tion for water from both wild was secured and building commenced. The lodge doors their ancient migrations has life and domestic livestock and opened in 2008, but Trevor never stopped building! once again become abun- the drying up of the river in the Trevor was tireless in his efforts to create a unique dant. For a change, man 1990’s resulted in an estimated and special lodge. His spirit and creativity will be has truly made a positive 100,000 zebra and wildebeest everlasting. He leaves his wife Eugen, sons Garth and Ian, and difference. three grandchildren. being trapped in the Mak- Involving community in wildlife conservation gadikgadi Pans National park, unable to move to Okavango Delta and the Chobe River. Southern Africa’s biggest large herbivore migration was BOTSWANA virtually wiped out in less than Old World Safari Charm a decade. We have a very dif- ferent scenario now. Ten years ago Dugmore leased tribal land opposite the national park, overlooking the dry deep Boteti river bed. Utilizing water beneath the surface he starting pumping and very soon large num- Kavango/Caprivi, Namibia bers of zebra, wildebeest and elephants were congregating an experience you will at the waterhole, they kept seldom encounter on the coming over the long dry African continent. Tel +264 66 259093 Cell: +264 813101730 Tel: +267 686 0981 or +267 686 1634 months, until his many pumps Fax +264 66 259094 Fax to email: 088610233 Cell: +267 7132 6085 were supplying 100,000 litres Email: [email protected] [email protected] of water all day, every day. www.nundaonline.com www.menoakwena.com Zambezi News chobe

10 TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River

PHOTOGRAPHY Tom Varley shares his incredible visuals taken one morning in Chobe Game Reserve. Chobe is world renowned for providing an all encompassing wild Chobe kaleidoscope life experience. These beautiful photographs tell it all.

Camping Safaris Transfers Educational Tours Lodge Accommodation Chobe Game Drives Boat Cruises and Fishing Victoria Falls Day Trips www.classi edsafaris.com Tel: +267 71691259 +267 71421153 +267 7253 7162, Kasane Botswana Email: classi [email protected] bookings@classi edsafaris.com

Contact details: Tel: +267 76 614 211 Email: [email protected]

Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available Tom Varley in the wild documenting meercats » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia Victoria Falls Productions We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat Private Photography / Videography services cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana. Experience in Africa Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross We o er a personal service by professional photographers. Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent. We can join your day trip in Chobe, trip to Victoria Falls, or anything else you’d like to keep a memory of. • Chalets, ensuite with air con • Restaurant and sunset bar Tom Varley, a camera man and a photographer, was raised in the • Safari tents with shared • Pool and bar area Zimbabwean bush. His love for the wildlife and the area is re ecting in his ablution facilities • Conference facility work and led him to publish a coee table book about Victoria Falls. • Private camp sites with • Activities: Game drive, boat shared ablution facilities cruises, fishing, Vic Falls day trips Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Cell: +263 712 616 874 Tel: + 263 13 406 79 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 Email: [email protected] www.vicfallsproductions.com Kwalape means ‘at home’ in Setswana E mail: [email protected] / [email protected] / [email protected] Zambezi Traveller zambezi chobe Travellers Friend 11

SPORT COMMUNITY Mowana Rebels take title Mobile vets treat By Musa wa Phuma spectators were abundant. coup for the hos- Pet owners are recognizing pitality industry as the improvement of the hotel team Mowana condition of their animals A local dogs Rebels win the Chobe after treatment. Regional Football Finals. A The surgeries, which blow-by-blow account of the were performed in the event follows. open, provided great Judgement Day came in entertainment as the vets showed off their skills to February when Mowana an appreciative audience Rebels took on Kachikau The players pose with their silverware PHOTO: Cresta Mowana of children and adults. Football Club, David versus Besides being castrated Goliath style, in the Chobe coaches who did their home- defence fouled Latti (Gweta or spayed and vacci- regional football finals work - at the end of the day the Express), the mighty Rebels nated, the dogs were also in Pandamatenga. fans had an exciting game and were awarded a spot kick treated against worms and Pound for pound Kachikau football was the winner. and Commodore scored external parasites. After FC was a very strong team in Kachikau FC never gave in, his hat trick. sleeping off the effects of all departments and they dom- even when the Rebels came The road to the final wasn’t the anesthetic for about an inated the first 15 minutes of marauding into their half, an easy one for Mowana hour most patients were in the game, forcing Rebels coach always piling the pressure on a fit state to make their own Rebels. There were 31 teams PHOTO: VETS ON WHEELS Willie Haskins to change his the Rebels. Eventually it paid Kasane spaying programme way home. Many were tactics. That soon paid divi- off as Kachikau scored, and in the region competing carted off by their owners dends with the Rebels scoring they had dominance for five for a spot in the final. Just to in private cars, taxis and By ZT correspondent Caracal, VOW vets sterilized their first goal, and after the or so minutes. mention a few that fell to the and vaccinated 191 dogs, and even wheelbarrows. first goal it became an ava- wrath of the Rebels: Cross an additional 51 dogs which The ultimate goal of Then the Rebels took off ell over two lanche of goals. Border with the score 7 to 2 to had been previously sterilized organizations like VOW, like a house on fire and revis- hundred dogs the mighty Rebels; Rebels 5, received vaccinations. MAWS and the Kasane The mighty Rebels were ited the Londoners, as they are were treated in Prisons 1; BAMB 2, Rebels 3; W Vaccination in combination BSPCA is to reduce the three goals ahead by half time. affectionately called, in their Kasane and Kazungula, with sterilization increases the population of dogs in The initial game was played on 18 yard area and the pressure Social for Joy 4, Rebels 5 – this Botswana, in January, by general health of the domestic the area. There should the side lines; hats off to both was unbearable. Kachikau one was decided on penalties. Vets On Wheels, an inter- dog population and keeps their be fewer unwanted and national, non-profit mobile numbers from exploding. This uncared-for dogs wander- vet service. serves as a preventative meas- ing the streets, spreading A big five safari destination! With assistance from ure to control the spread of diseases to both people Kasane – Chobe – Botswana their local partners, the several canine diseases. and animals, domestic Kasane branch of the Demand for this service and wild. In reducing the Lodge and Camping Botswana Society for was overwhelming in both population, there will be the Prevention of Cru- villages. Many residents of less competition for food Accommodation: A variety of options from family elty to Animals, the both Kasane and Kazungula and therefore less need for and twin rooms with ensuites in our lodges and Maun Animal Welfare were already familiar with drastic culling measures to camping. All amenities including a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Society, and local NGO sterilization campaigns and be taken in the future. Activities: Chobe National Park game drives and boat cruises are available daily. Chobe Day trips from Victoria Falls or Livingstone include breakfast and a lunch cruise – an all day activity. Mobile safaris: Explore Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Okavango, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi and Deception Valley. Choose from budget, semi participation, semi-luxury or tailor made safaris.

Telephone: +267 6250 995 / Fax: +267 6250 314 Email: [email protected] / [email protected] www.theberiversafaris.com 12 Travellers Friend zambezi chobe Zambezi Traveller

HISTORY The first rhinos journey to Chobe

By Peter Hepburn Backus has sent ZT his down and became habituated sleeping in the cabs. At about private memoirs of his to humans and vehicles. They two o’clock in the morning time working in the Chobe were gradually tempted into we were woken by irate noises n 1967, Botswana received National Park in its early days. large wooden crates where coming from two cantanker- its first two pairs of white In his words… they were fed and watered ous un-sedated rhino kicking rhino from the Natal Parks I ”I went out daily with Mike, until ready to travel to their their crates and squealing up Board. These rhino were an a Natal Parks Board ranger, new home. independence gift from the a storm and an equally irate looking for suitable candidates President of South Africa to After being trapped in crowd of wide awake guests of breeding age for reloca- their crates and sedated, the demanding some peace and the President of Botswana. tion. This involved getting first selected breeding pair quiet. The manager asked us Rob Backus, a voluntary as close as possible to study to leave and, after administer- service officer who had arrived the health and fitness, age, of rhino were winched onto ing some more sleep muti to in Botswana in 1964 and had relationship, breeding status their respective trucks and we The rhinos arriving in Botswana our passengers and some ‘wide worked with Pat Hepburn in etc of each individual. We set off, with the South African awake pills’ for us, we contin- the early development of the had a lot of fun stalking these and Botswana flags proudly calibre tranquiliser gun, the plating, to follow up and find ued our journey. Chobe Game Reserve, was prehistoric behemoths. flying and with two game rhino would inevitably take the drugged animals. Hur- tasked to build the bomas for Darting, following up and guards, on the long journey On arrival the crates were off into the densest thickets of riedly a team would then cut the rhino and then to travel to recovery was a hectic affair, north via Beitbridge and Rho- manhandled off the trucks by a track in and we would winch Umfolosi Game Reserve with requiring stealth, stamina acacia thorn. desia (Zimbabwe). a gang of labourers and game them onto low loaders for the Natal Parks Board rangers and teamwork. Once hit with We used game guards Somewhere in Northern scouts and the weary travellers transport back to kraals before to help capture and transport an aluminium dart contain- dressed in leather jackets and Transvaal we stopped late at were released into the individ- they woke up. the rhinos back to Botswana. ing M99, fired from a .410 chaps, carrying walkie-talkies night at a motel for a few hours ual mopane pole kraals we had and mounted on horses with The rhino were housed in sleep, parking our charges in built under the huge Acacia thorn-proof leather armour- enclosures until they quietened the car park with the guards tortillis tree near Serondella. After a couple of days to BUSINESS ensure the rhino were settling Toro Safari Lodge in we repeated the journey, B - C - K A bringing another two back Marketing boost for Chobe Marina within a week. “Come and enjoy your break on the banks “There are some very exciting In a letter to me dated 29 of the Chobe River where 2 rivers and plans for the refurbishment of February 1968, Pat Hepburn 4 African countries meet” Chobe Marina Lodge during wrote: “I let them go into the 2012, and once all on line, the paddock at Christmas and changes would completely they’re thriving. enhance the guest experi- ence,” said Heath Dhana, chief Except Henry’s hocks are operations officer of Chobe still raw. They’re all in goodish Marina Lodge and African condition and Squeaker and Odyssey, its activities and Pandane are very tame. Henry transfer division. and Bukale are both very wild”

PHOTO: CHOBE MARINA Chobe Marina Lodge view from the river Tourvest chief executive Gary Elmes told ZT that the prop- MORE ONLINE Delta, the Kasane Forest Reserve, By Diana Howell erty is the company’s first in the Caprivi Strip and the Zambezi Botswana and is a strategic fit New opportunities River, with the Victoria Falls a two- with its activity-based opera- with basketry skills African Hotels and Adventure, hour drive away. the tourism property man- tions, such as Wild Horizons, Local NGO CARACAL launches agement division of Tourvest The lodge comprises 60 different which are largely concen- a programme to help destitute Accommodation Accommodation and Activi- accommodation units ranging trated in the Victoria Falls. women in Kasane, Botswana, ties, has acquired the sales Executive rooms, River Chalets, Standard Chalets, from studios, apartments, cha- “Chobe Marina is a world-class by enhancing their basket and marketing contract for lets and suites, each fitted with Private Ablutions, Campsites property and a valuable addi- weaving business skills the Chobe Marina Lodge air-conditioning, television, tel- tion to our growing portfolio,” Activities in Kasane. ephone and mini-bar. It also has More CARACAL projects he said. “It will also help the 3 hr game drive, sunset boat cruise into Chobe National Park The lodge is situated a 100-seater conference room Biodiversity Centre and sunset boat cruise to where the four countries meet. on the banks of the overlooking the Chobe River Tourvest group consolidate Environmental Education Centre Transfers to Victoria Falls. Chobe River in Kasane in with views of the Caprivi Strip. its position in the Victoria Falls Tiger Fishing. Relax in our Restaurant & Bar north-eastern Botswana. It is in Game drives, river cruises and area and to grow its presence Community Craft Centre close proximity to the Chobe themed-dinner evenings into new highly sought after PO Box 511, Kasane, Botswana Tel +(267) 6252694 Wildlife Rescue and Orphanage Centre are available. safari destinations.” Fax +(267)6252695 [email protected] www.torolodge.co.bw National Park, the Okavango Zambezi Traveller zambezi chobe Travellers Friend 13

HISTORY History of Chobe National Park – Part 8 By Judy Hepburn ZT’s historian intro- impala, tsessebe, lechwe, represented ‘the real thing’ to duces Rob Backus baboons, monkeys, steenbok, me. It was my holy grail and I duiker, warthog, zebra, sable, had found it here. In one after- he early 1960s was a who as a teenager fell eland, spoor of lion, black noon all my childhood reading busy time for the banks in with Chobe’s first mamba (9 ft), hippo, Egyp- and dreams had been realized Tof the Chobe River, warden and fell in love tian geese, eagles, vultures, south of the then small settle- with the brand new pelicans, storks, spurwinged and I vowed that, by hook ment of Kasane. Pat Hepburn Chobe wildlife reserve. geese, and dozens of other or by crook, I would return and his newly appointed crew birds and beasts that I can’t to Chobe and work in the of workers began the arduous was very agreeable! While the even remember. Game Department.” task of mapping and cutting first Department of Wildlife “Pat Hepburn is a game Backus did return and his what would be the initial net- and National Parks base was expert and storybook game recorded memories of those work of roads, designed to being built, accommodation Warden who is fearless and offer maximum game viewing consisted of a couple of tents days are a wonderful insight knows the animals as individu- into the development of the along the banks of the river and a very rustic ablution block als… The sights, sounds and area. He has kindly emailed us and up amongst the mukusi under the big baobab tree on smells, the excitement and forests off the sand ridge. the hill behind Chobe Safari romance and the multitude of some of his diary excerpts and Lodge. The camp was replaced Pat Hepburn, first Warden, Chobe National Park 1961 I am sad to say that I did not unspoiled and exotic animals these memories will be shared by offices, workshops, the war- know my late father-in-law in their natural environment in the next issue. den’s house and staff lodgings, The sights, sounds and “Wed. Sept 16th 1964. long enough. He was a wealth the remains of which can still smells, the excitement While the DC was doing his of knowledge, extremely be seen on the southern side of and romance and the admin work I went fishing for well read with an instinctive Sedudu Island. tiger fish on the Chobe but understanding of not only the multitude of unspoiled caught nothing (too hot!). At Rob Backus was one of the flora and fauna of the area but and exotic animals in many young adventurers who 3.00 pm Pat Hepburn, the the human being as well. Pat had the pleasure of working their natural environ- Game Warden, took us by had a quiet but authoritative with Pat Hepburn. Rob hailed ment represented ‘the Landrover into the reserve demeanor together with an from England and arrived in real thing’ to me. which had only been a reserve amazingly practical attitude Francistown in September for three years and open to the to life. 1964 as a Voluntary Service public for one month so the My favourite quote among Officer at the tender age of 18. Commissioner of Francistown game was still very wild. at that time, Phil Steenkamp, his many wise observations Backus kept a daily diary of invited Backus to accompany “Game seen (all in large was, “Any fool can be uncom- his experiences in Botswana in him to Kasane and one of his numbers): elephant, kudu, fortable,” so I am sure his camp those early days. The District diary entries reads:- waterbuck, Chobe Bushbuck,

Advertise in the Chobe Classifieds Karen Clemence +267 75968294 Jo Clemence +267 72116479 [email protected]

Accommodation Bureau de Change Logistics & Supply Tour Operators

Senyati Safari Camp. Nine SC thatched campsites Cape 2 Cairo Bureau de Change: Have changed there Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from email addresses! You can now reach them on the with power and own ablutions. Three SC chalets, following: [email protected] & cape2cairo. Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victo- each sleep up to 4. Bar overlooking waterhole. [email protected] . Look forward to hearing from you ria Falls, Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Bricks, Located 8km from Kazungula on Nata Road. cement, quarry stone, thatching grass and timber. Auto Repairs Contact: +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376 Accommodation

P Purified Water Bottling B 28 AG 93 K 274 Phone +267 718 81306 or +267 718 26709. FLAME DIVISION (PTY) LTD TRADING AS 96 Kasane Tel: 7 Www.senyatisafaricamp.co.bw Aquarite Botswana: Manufactures of puri- Email: [email protected] fied bottled water and purified soda water. Refill We provide the following; Chobe day trip - Game drive - SPECIALISE IN ALL VEHICLE your containers with purified water at a frac- Boat cruise - Transfers to and Air-Con & Refrigeration REPAIRS MAINTENANCE tion of the cost. Based in Kasane (next to Tyre- from, Botswana, Namibia, AND OVERHAULS max in Kazangula) and Maun. Contact had office: Zambia, Zimbabwe Contact Mike T: 71264875 / 73643003 +267 686 0283 or Lorraine +267 72989574. Box 784 Kasane Plot 37, Pula Road Tel: 6250753 Cell: 74796707 Look no further! P.O.Box 755, Kasane. Botswana Safari Uniforms Email: [email protected] KAZUNGULA INDUSTRIAL Fax: 002676250754 SERAME AIR-CON & REFRIGERATION Khaki Fever: Quality you can afford! Go to www. khakifever.co.za to download our latest catalog or DREAMS SAFARIS For all your air-conditioning and Coffee Shop email: [email protected] (00267) 71617602 refrigeration needs inc: Sales, Service, for a sample viewing. We o er...... Repairs and Installation. The Coffee Buzz is situated on the Kasane main Game drives * Boat cruises We supply LG, Dunham-Bush and Elegance road in a beautiful seculed garden. Menu includes: Tour Operators Fishing * Walking safaris air-conditioners. Breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers, muffins & daily Night drives * Bicycle riding specials. Open Monday to Saturday, 7.30am to Mobile safaris Contact us for a FREE no obligation quote. 14.00pm. Contact us, facebook: coffee buss Kasane, No job to big or small. phone +267 71318956. Contact: +267 625 0332 Cell +267 7184 6965 or +267 7317 4300 Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa P.O. Box 686, Kasane Email: [email protected] Computers & Internet [email protected] Tel: (00267) 71771753/76108698 (New Arcade - Spar Complex) email: [email protected] www.dreamssafaris.com Kasane Computers. Internet café, WiFi zone, photo- copying, laminating, bidning, typing, rubber Fax/Tel: + 267 625 2483 stamps, ink cartridges, toners, CD/DVDs, PCs/ Cell: + 267 721 16479 Automotive Laptops, printers, PC repairs and more. Offices – Umpengu Tours Audi Centre, Kasane (opp. Chobe Marina lodge) and Camping overnight in Chobe Kazungula Junction (near Engen Garage). Phone 1 Night @ USD190 pp all inclusive. Shop 1E Kazungula Junction Auto World. Spare parts and accessories for all local +267 625 2313 or fax +267 625 2537 or email: Mobile Safaris – Chobe Savuti, Moremi etc and imported vehicles. Opposite new bus rank, 5 nights @ USD1100 pp all inclusive. Kasane. Phone +267 625 2777, Fax +267 625 266. [email protected] Boat Cruises and game drives (Next to Engen) Chobe Day Trip Victoria Falls – visit the magni cent Victoria Falls Transfers available Tel: +267 625 2485 / +267 625 2193 Chobe Day Trips Game drives, boat cruises, Plot 10 Kazungula, Botswana www.cape2cairobureau.com African Safari Jewellery border pickup. Ph: +267 717 8801 or +267 715 16924 Elephant hair bracelets Livingstone and Victoria 100% Motswana owned company handcrafted in gold and silver Falls day trips by Peter Hepburn Cultural village tours MORE ONLINE Available in Kasane, No 1 Lady Travel Agent Botswana at the Audi Centre Beside Spar complex, Kasane (next to coffee shop, opposite Chobe Ph: +267 625 0131 Marina Lodge) www.zambezitraveller.com or +267 716 25521 Phone: +267 6250 254 Fax: +267 6250 810 [email protected] [email protected] The Zambezi River is now officially online Email: [email protected] or [email protected] Hwange 14 on your way to the Zambezi

WILDLIFE Hwange – a wilderness waiting Hwange National Park is the largest national park in Zimbabwe, covering an area of 14,651 square kilometers. It has a deserved reputation as one of Africa’s finest wildlife sanctuaries, boasting over 100 species of mammal and more than 400 bird species.

By ZT correspondent by the famous white hunter rain water, though there are Frederick Courteney Selous, some that are fed by natural and hunted seasonally groundwater. wange National Park by bushmen. is the largest national To keep the game within Hpark in Zimbabwe, At the turn of the century the park, water pumps were covering an area of 14,651 the government issued licenses installed at pans to create a square kilometers. This mag- and permits for animals to be permanent source of water for nificent area lies in the west of captured for zoos around the the game, and these pumps the country, between Bula- world. Permits were also issued have become a Hwange wayo and Victoria Falls; its to cut great quantities of teak; legacy. The park developed western boundary bordering these permits were allowed and became world famous for Botswana. It has a deserved to expire when the area was its great herds of buffalo and reputation as one of Africa’s officially proclaimed a reserve elephant, its variety of ante- finest wildlife sanctuaries, – the first in the country. lope, predators, and birdlife. boasting over 100 species of This vast park is char- During the economic mammal and recording more acterized by its diversity in instability of the last ten years, than 400 bird species. landscape. Two thirds of its Hwange has seen a decline in Hwange park is steeped in area is covered by the Kala- growth of the tourism strong- historical events and has many hari sands in the south, this hold in the south. Good news a tale to tell. It was established terrain being mostly flat with for the park is the develop- in 1928 and named then as water sources in seasonal pans Scenic Hwange PHOTO: Dave CARSON, CAMP HWANGE ment of two new safari camps Wankie Game Reserve, with dotted among large sections of in the north-central region; the first warden being the teak forest. however, the game moved within which are found gran- tributaries, making this area Camp Hwange is situated outside the park boundary in ites and inliers (an area of older more rugged. 22-year old Ted Davison. As the new park was being approximately 2 km south of search of water, to the Gwayi Before the mid 1850’s, the established it was realized rocks surrounded by younger Mopane woodland is Shumba Pan, and Nehimba Valley in the south and to the region was once the hunt- that the pans filled with the rocks) in the north central common in this region; in Safari lodge which is approxi- river systems in the north. ing ground of the Zulu rains and in a good season area of the park. This area is the areas without rivers, mately 60 km north-west of warrior king Mzilikaze, then they could hold water for The Kalahari sands of drained by only two rivers, the grassy depressions and pans Main Camp on the road to it was explored and hunted some time. As the pans dried the south give way to basalts Deka and the Lukosi and their form, most of which fill with Shumba Pan.

welcome to an experience of a lifetime hwange national park

Deep in the heart of Hwange National Park, on a large private Concession, lies an age old natural seep, home to abundant wildlife. Enjoy the tranquility of an un-spoilt wilderness. Over 400 different species of birds. Hwange, known as The Land of the Giants is well known for its elephant sightings. Be thrilled with amazing sightings of these majestic creatures on their home turf. Nehimba a safari experience like no other. Accommodation is luxurious, the wildlife spectacular, the hospitality welcoming. You will want to come back. GPS Coordinates 18 54 08 70 S 26 25 39 65 E Email: [email protected] www.nehimba.com Zambezi Traveller zambezi hwange Travellers Friend 15

EDUCATION Community Communities partnered on human/wildlife conflict Education to change lives By ZT correspondent present is Mambanje Primary School which has 104 pupils and 4 teachers and is about 20 he Char Char Trust kms from the small town of with its iconic Char Dete on the edge of Hwange TChar Chest is a fea- National Park. ture of a programme to uplift The many challenges facing rural schools in memory of a rural schools such as Mam- dynamic mother and her ten banje include poor facilities, TRUST HORIZON year old daughter. no `electricity, no water, as A bright pink storage trunk well as obtaining and keep- sits in the corner of a rural TRUST CHAR CHAR PHOTO: PHOTO: WIL D PHOTO: ing qualified teachers. The Calvin Parker presents the pink storage trunks Pindile Ncube, CEO of the Hwange Rural District Council, and Roger classroom. It can withstand Trust together with the Hide Parry of the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust. the harsh environment of take on projects at the school poorly built buildings, dirt where Veronica developed a until such time as systems - they are currently assisting Hwange Rural District Council representing floors, leaking roofs and open passion for the education of are in place and the Trust can with obtaining electricity for rural farmers adjacent to protected land has windows. Inside, it has care- under privileged children. move to another school. Mambanje. Another project joined Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust and the fully designed compartments Today the Char Char Trust The Char Char Chest is is a feeding programme as the giving specific places to various focuses on schools in Zimba- given to each grade and this children are required to be at Hwange Lion Research Project to collect items to be used in lessons. bwe. The Hide Safari Lodge specific trunk will stay with school for a full day without a data on human /wildlife conflict and The trunk cannot be mis- in Hwange National Park is the same class all the way to midday meal provided. educate school children in conservation. taken for anything else; it the co-ordinator for the Trust Grade Seven. The chest is The school authorities are is a Char Char Chest. The in the Hwange region. The stocked with everything the tasked with being involved By ZT correspondent Char Char Trust was set up Hide assists with identifying class will need for a year, and in every project. The Trust’s in memory of English born, schools in need and with the it is then replenished the next strategy is based on a simple follow-up programme. year, giving the teacher and ural communities close to the Zambezi National ten and a half year old Char- truth: teachers believe in lotte Parker and her mother, Ian Godfrey, manager of the pupils a sense of owner- the power of education to Park and Fuller Forest in Zimbabwe, part of the ship and responsibility for Kavango Zambezi Trans Frontier Conservation Veronica, both of whom lost The Hide, said there are many change lives. R their lives to an elephant attack schools in need, but once a their education. Area, are suffering from loss of livestock to predators. in Africa. The family had lived school has been identified, the The school being assisted Visit www.thecharchartrust.org Last year the Hwange Rural District Council called a for a time in South Africa Trust works with that school by the Trust and the Hide at www.thecharcharchest.com meeting of local stakeholders to find ways to reduce the impact of wildlife on rural farmers in the Mvutu and Shana Chiefdoms. In response, the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust FIND YOUR “SELF” has formed a partnership with the Hwange Lion Research Project. These agencies are working with the Hwange Rural IN AFRICA District Council, the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wild- life Management Authority, the Forestry Commission and local communities. The Hwange Lion Research Project started a human/ predator conflict data collection project in the Tsholotsho and Mabale areas bordering Hwange National Park three years ago. The resulting data has given an understanding of Miombo Safari Camp is now open! With new eco the conflict situation in the area. friendly treehouses and revamped and renovated entertaiment areas. Enjoy the old ambience but Data was collected by Bongani Dlodlo of the Wild Hori- with a totally new experience! Our all year round zons Wildlife Trust and Lovemore Sibanda of Hwange waterhole gives you the chance to see elephants Lion Research. The project was overseen by Roger Parry of and buffalo amongst other game close up. the Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust, with research consultant Contact us for our specials for residents and Dr Andy Loveridge of the Wildlife Conservation Research visiting family and friends! Unit, Oxford. This project has been funded by the Safari Club Interna- US$125 US$250 Full board All inclusive tional Foundation. An affiliated project involving providing (includes lunch/dinner / (includes game drives, drinks environmental education to school groups has been funded breakfast and all teas and RATES and full Board) by Cleveland Zoo (USA).

In 2011,700 children attended the Wild Horizons Contact your local agent or Miombo directly at: Miombo Is Situated Wildlife Trust educational programme partnered with Envi- Bulawayo - Tel: +2639462765. Cell: +263772278230 On The Boundary Of The Park 15 ronment Africa.It is planned to host another 800 children Tel: (263-4) 498835/6 [email protected] Miombo - Tel: +26318695, [email protected] Minutes Drive Email: [email protected] From Main Camp during 2012. Cell Miombo Camp + 263712640357 www.thehide.com

CAMP HWANGE

An unforgettable encounter with wild Africa the complete safari Deep within Northern Hwange National Park Classic Safari Camp, 8 rooms with en suit facilities [email protected] | www.camphwange.com Game Drives Walking Safaris Night Drives Birding Private waterhole with log hide 16 Travellers Friend zambezi hwange Zambezi Traveller

CONSERVATION in ACTION Compiled by Peter Roberts Travelling lion turns a spotlight on the species We look in detail at our lead story on the Livingstone lion and the issues facing conservation of this species. Dr Andrew Loveridge, conservation efforts, such By Peter Roberts director of Hwange Lion as the KAZA trans-fron- Research, explains: “The pri- tier park initiative, which he Hwange Lion ority for lion conservation has aims to unify conservation Research Project of to be to minimise human- efforts over large areas of TOxford University’s wildlife conflict and limit the north-western Zimbabwe, Wildlife Conservation impact large carnivores have north-eastern Botswana and Research Unit is one of the on people’s livelihoods by south-western Zambia. largest and longest running finding ways people can live Finally, the story of our wild lion research projects in close proximity with them. lion raises the issue of in Africa. The project Current research by HLR, how authorities deal with was started in 1999 by Dr in collaboration with Zim- human-wildlife conflict Andrew Loveridge, at the Parks, into conflict between invitation of and in collabo- people and lions hopes to ration with the Zimbabwe assist the future management Without wildlife National Parks & Wildlife FACT FILE of these issues with benefits corridors to allow Authority, and has studied for both local farmers and several generations of lions movement ‘Dynamite’ first fitted with lion conservation.” in the Park. between populations a GPS collar in 2005 Having been eradicated their future The core of the pro- As few as 20,000 lions from over 80% of their his- ject’s research is achieved remaining in the wild toric range, lion populations genetic viability through radio-telemetry Only six contiguous popu- in Africa have declined dras- may be at risk. and more recently the use lations of at least 1,000 adults tically in the last few decades of GPS collars, such as the Legend and there may be as few as one worn by our ‘Zambezi The point at which he POST MARLEEN PHOTO: swam across the Zambezi GPS Movement Path 20,000 wild lions remaining. and problem animals. It’s Traveller,’ which are fitted Roads River is approximately 100 Conservationists are con- a shame that the first wild to individual lions and International Borders metres wide . cerned that lion populations lion to be sighted in the record data on their move- Zambezi River are increasingly becoming Livingstone area for so ments, supplying valuable National Conservation Areas Zambia restricted to isolated National many years has ended up information to researchers. Other Conservation areas Parks and other protected being captured. It would Data retrieved from areas, their geographic range have been even sadder the lion’s GPS collar by limited by the loss of suitable if he had been shot as a Brent Stapelkamp, of the Mosi-Oa-Tunya wild habitat with sufficient problem animal. Hwange Lion Research prey species to maintain Victoria Falls The challenge now for Project, has revealed his healthy populations. “This the Zambian Wildlife route. “He travelled north fragmentation of population Authority is to find a suit- from his home range, Zimbabwe ranges causes potential prob- able wild site, supporting close to Hwange National Kazuma Pan lems, with isolated populations Chobe sustainable numbers of Park’s Main Camp, in mid becoming genetically inbred December, before travelling wild prey species, and Matetsi YNHAM GOREDEM A and prone to extinction in the BA away from any potential west along a line parallel but long term,” said Loveridge. livestock conflict, where

a couple of kilometres north GRAPHIC BY Deka Importantly there are of the main Hwange-Vic- they can consider releasing thought to be only six con- toria Falls road, and then this animal. The complica- Hwange tiguous populations of at least turning north again, reach- Botswana tion is that any such release 1,000 adults, the Serengeti- ing the Zambezi River in should also aim not to dis- Mara ecosystem (Kenya early January. rupt local lion populations, and Tanzania); the Selous “Initially he meandered which could result in other travelled a rough distance of at themselves, however, one by This lion is the sole Game Reserve complex and lions being displaced and upstream on the southern Ruaha-Rungwa ecosys- least on the map of 220 kms, one the other members of pushed into conflict areas. side, before crossing the although probably travelling the coalition were snared and remaining member of a tems (both in Tanzania); the river around mid January at a much greater distance on killed, weakening the groups coalition of four brothers, Lower Zambezi-Luangwa It is unlikely that he will a point some 50 kilometres the ground.” ability to control the territory whose home territory complex (Zambia); the be repatriated to Zim- downstream of the Victo- and eventually leaving ‘Dyna- babwe, especially as to This lion is the sole remain- Kafue-Kavango-Hwange ria Falls at midnight on the mite’ as the sole survivor. He is for the last few years re-release him back into ing member of a coalition of region (Angola, Botswana, 15 January. known to have finally lost his his old home patch would four brothers, whose home had been just outside Nambia, Zambia and Zimba- “The GPS receiver in the pride tenure to two younger bwe) and the Greater Kruger only bring him into con- territory for the last few years males late last year and was last Hwange National Park’s collar records a positional ecosystem (South Africa flict with the two males had been just outside Hwange seen in the area of Sikumi Tree Main Camp area. point every hour, and shows and Mozambique). who displaced him from National Park’s Main Camp Lodge in December. the lion on the south bank area. The four were known “Without wildlife corridors his territory towards the It’s a familiar fate for older end of last year and started at just before midnight and to researchers as the ‘Dyna- The problem can become to allow movement between the north bank an hour male lions. At an age where he him on his travels. For now mite Boys’ after the pan close a matter of life and death for populations their future later. He obviously swam to where this individual was is unlikely to regain a territory genetic viability may be at the future of this Zam- or breeding pride, males like the individual lions involved. the river, as indicated by his first fitted with a GPS collar risk. Large, wide ranging car- bezi traveller remains in this typically become wander- Often there is no option but to movement downstream in 2005. At the time still sub- nivores need to be conserved the balance. ers, frequently coming into where he crossed, the river adults, and not yet mature destroy the animals concerned. at the landscape level; it is conflict with livestock and The author would like being approximately 100 enough to hold a territory of Previous attempts to relocate not enough to conserve small local communities as a result. to thank Dr Andrew Lov- metres wide at this point. their own, they spent their problem animals away from Unable to secure suitable ter- isolated populations that are eridge, his Hwange Lion time avoiding the dominant conflict areas have met with “From here he circled ritory and access to wild prey vulnerable to extinction,” Research team and Mar- males in the area. inland and round to arrive they get pushed into commu- mixed success, and it is always said Loveridge. leen Post of Sikumi Tree on the outskirts of Living- A few years later they nal areas and often become likely that lions with a history These issues highlight the Lodge, for their assistance stone on 22 January, having established a territory for livestock killers. of cattle raiding will re-offend. importance of cross-border with this article.

Sponsored by Voyager and Europcar Zambezi News victoria falls

TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River 17

Adventure How safe is bungee jumping?

By Frances Jackson We interview the at regular intervals to ensure management of that a similar failure cannot Victoria Falls Bungee happen again. The good enior management news is that the rubber we are of the Victoria Falls two months after the now using is very strong and SBungee Company incident where a indications are that our new granted Zambezi Traveller an bungee cord broke cords have a breaking strain exclusive interview after the and an Australian in excess of 2 tones so they are widely reported bungee acci- tourist fell into the completely safe. dent. I spent a couple hours ZT: I know that you have at the bridge with Allen Rob- Zambezi resulting, for- introduced some new safety erts, Director; Garth Fowler, tunately, in relatively measures since the incident; General Manager; Sonja minor injuries. can you tell me about those? Clay, Marketing Manager; and Hosiah Mudzingwa, ZT: What impact did this AR: Well the first thing is Operations Manager. To my have on your business? the independent testing of the dismay, I found I had just rubber which I have already AR - We were closed for missed seeing Bear Grylls spoken about. That’s critical 22 days whilst investigations and confirms that the rubber take a jump. were taking place. But this is of the required strength On 31st December 2011 a was not an option; this was the and elasticity. client from Australia plunged first accident since we started PHOTO : Victoria Falls BUNJEE into the Zambezi River after operating 17 years ago so we Adventurer, Bear Grylls took the plunge The second thing is that her bungee cord snapped. She needed to find out why it hap- once the cords are being used, ZT: All over the world taking part in these activities. ZT: The broken cord was pened and to do whatever was we subject them to a load test very soon became an inter- there are many adrenalin sent for forensic testing. needed to make sure it does We brief clients on how to after every 20 jumps where national celebrity, while the activities that have had seri- What were the results? not happen again. jump safely and what to do in we stretch the bungee cord to media had a field day; croco- ous accidents, but the hype the unlikely event that some- AR: Obviously our primary dile infested river, famous In terms of PR, I am sure around this has been huge, a predetermined length and concern was to find out what location, approaching rapids, that there has been a nega- why do you think that is? thing does go wrong. measure the force that the video footage of the event and tive impact, but surprisingly went wrong. We sent the cord is applying to the load AR: All the activities on this AR: After this incident we most importantly a survivor enough we had continued broken cord to a specialized cell. The load cell reading tells bridge including bungee are are taking things to another who could tell the tale. requests to jump, even imme- Structural Engineering com- us what condition the cord is in among the safest activities level. There are currently no diately after the event. Since pany in SA which is run by a and is an early warning system ZT: First and foremost, that you can do. This incident we reopened business has been official standards for bungee team of Professors from Wits should there be any undue how is the client? received attention because brisk, you have just missed jumping in either Zimbabwe University. They carried out wear or damage to a cord. there was instant video foot- Allen Roberts: We are in Bear Grylls taking his jump. or Zambia so we have always extensive testing on the cord age that soon went world-wide Thirdly we have imple- regular contact with her and used the New Zealand Code and found that the rubber was We are also grateful for the and most importantly there mented periodic cord the good news is that she is weaker than it should have support that we have had from was a survivor that could be of Practice which is very thor- inspections where we remove recovering well. Her lungs are been. The conclusion is that it the Zambian tourism authori- interviewed. It was a compel- ough. Now we are working on the outer binding of the cord still sore due to water inhala- is this that caused the failure. ties. The Honourable Minister ling story and thankfully one setting even higher standards. which allows us to see exactly tion, but from all accounts all This is something we are dis- came and jumped from the with a happy ending. Our primary focus is to ensure what the condition of the is going well and she is due cussing with our supplier but bridge just a few days after the that this never happens again, cord is inside. If there is any to start a new job soon. Her ZT: How are people in the mean time, and to ensure incident to show solidarity damage or wear to the cord courage and calmness from briefed before they jump? so we are taking even more that we can all have complete and support for our product then we will see it when we do the minute the cord snapped that has run safely for so many Garth Fowler: We are very stringent checks and balances confidence in the bungee this inspection. must be commended, she is a years, and we are very grateful clear and highlight the poten- on all equipment, and on cords, we are now having the very tough young lady to him for that. tial risks that are involved with the participants. rubber independently tested Continued on page 20 18 Travellers Friend zambezi victoria falls Zambezi Traveller

HISTORY LITERATURE Replica Victorian Tram to Operate in Vic Falls The Victoria Falls Tram Dust Company has For ever- and a thousand years commissioned a this place has been our home, replica Victorian tram and when our ancestors turned to dust, to operate a sched- they became its fertile loam. So the dust of the deserts uled service in and and the dust of the plains is part of our ancient line, around the world class and their age-old voice has whispered to us, tourist destination. from before the beginning of time.

Their spirit’s calls out, for you to return, By ZT correspondent and visit them if you will, so you finally came back, to the cradle of man, vintage-style diesel to answer the ancient pull. tram is being made By now you know, the fate I warned, Ain Johannesburg, on has inevitably come to pass- order from the Victoria Falls that the dust of the ages has filtered in, Tram Company. The tram is and found its way to your heart! modelled on the open-sided Brill trams of circa 1890 From the rattling rides, across the savannahs, with contractors Prof Engi- in bone-chill break of day- neering required to replicate to the height of noon, and the well-earned rest, with us PHOTO: Victoria Falls Tram Company the quality and feel as well The tram is modelled on the open-sided Brill trams of circa 1890 snoozing in the shade. as the look of the late 19th In addition, the tram will The tram will seat 30 pas- Disembarking of elderly The dust we raised, as we went our way, Century vehicle. offer transfers to the game sengers on eight comfortable and child passengers will be floated golden in the evening air and as the sun sunk low, the earth below, The tram will operate a reserves and properties near wooden slatted benches, six assisted with two low raiser, the rail line south of Victoria seemed to catch fire- here and there daily scheduled service from of which have double seat- non-slip fixed steps on either Falls to Jafuta and Sekuti, a Victoria Falls Station to the backs to allow passengers unique experience for visitors side running the full length of The dust of the trails and the dust of the tracks, collected in to face in either direction of Victoria Falls Bridge and the to the destinations in this area. the vehicle. the cloths you wore Rain Forest. It will also offer travel. The tram will be able An onboard bar and refresh- The tram is designed to it drifted in the air- settled in your hair, runs from Palm Grove Siding ment service will cater to to attain a maximum speed of meet and exceed safety and and it even seeped into your pores. opposite the Royal Living- passenger needs, with a public 25 km/h, and the open sides So the ancient motes of the ancient land, operating specifications of stone and the Livingstone address system for commen- will have roll-down awn- now evermore will be embedded in your head, and regional railway systems. For- Station in Zambia. tary and announcements. ings for weather protection. embedded in your heart, ward, rear and aerial lighting where you think none can see have been added for night tours, and red tail lights for But the ancients know, that your visit home has made you, each direction of travel, have for the first time, whole been specified. and now the land of your fathers, fathers, father is infused in the depths of your soul. Delivery is scheduled for So they will sing in your sleep, to the dust in your veins, April 2012 and after com- much sweeter than ever before pletion of handover and till you return once again, to the home of our past-the land operational training, it is antic- that gave birth to us all! ipated that scheduled runs will Russell Gammon start in early May 2012.

Russell Gammon Safaris Bespoke Guiding and Keynote Speaking service for visiting conference and incentive, special interest, VIP and series tour groups. Victoria Falls Livingstone Chobe email: [email protected] www.russellgammon.com

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THE VICTORIA FALLS TRAM: Bridge Runs, transfers to Zambia, www.steamtraincompany.com transfers to game reserves & all other Vic Falls activities. [email protected] Booking office: Contact us for reservations, full schedules or more info about the Zambezi Lager +263 13 42912 Party Express, corporate events or advertising & film opportunities. Zambezi Traveller zambezi victoria falls Travellers Friend 19

DEVELOPMENT In the town itself, the ever- Induna Club rooms will be popular and centrally located 50% larger than the current Ilala Lodge Hotel has plans rooms at Victoria Falls Safari for a new wing of 20 rooms Lodge and the open design Awaking the Giant – watch this space as details will give a sense of abundant were not available as we went space. The exclusive ‘Club’ By ZT correspondent Renewed vigor in to press. ethos will be reflected in such investment in Victoria At Victoria Falls Safari features as butler service, pri- enewed vigor in invest- Falls town is exciting Lodge, construction is under- vate check-in and check-out and a multi-functional enter- ment in Victoria Falls the tourist industry way on a new and exclusive tainment area that includes a town is exciting the after long years in wing to be named The Induna R D GE LO Club. The 16 rooms and bar, lounge and terrace. tourist industry after long the doldrums. Is the years in the doldrums. Is the sleeping giant about R iver four suites in the new wing Victoria Falls continues to alls

F represent a US$3 million sleeping giant about to awake? see a steady increase of visi- to awake? We report investment by Africa Albida We report on new develop- on new developments tors from around the world Tourism Group, scheduled to and has had renewed success ments on the Zimbabwean near this World open in August this year. side of the Zambezi. V ictoria PHOTO: in attracting conferences such Heritage Site. Victoria Falls River Lodge from the air This will bring the total as the Africa Travel Associa- Sleeping on the banks of number of rooms at VFSL tion in May this year and the the Zambezi is magical and to 92 – the thatched African- United Nations World Tour- can now be done in style at style lodge opened in 1994 ism Organisation General the newest property on the with 72 rooms and has consist- Assembly in 2013, to be hosted south bank. The Victoria Falls ently earned awards including jointly with Livingstone. River Lodge in the Zambezi being voted by the Association National Park has opened, of Zimbabwe Travel Agents The annual JWT Global providing luxury tented as Best Safari Lodge for 16 Travel Trends Report makes accommodation each with successive years. bold predictions for 2012: “An increasingly hot tourist spot private decks overlooking “Victoria Falls is a ‘must- will be Zimbabwe – home to

the river. VFSL PHOTOS: see-in-your-lifetime’ PHOTOS: WILD HORIZON one of the Seven Wonders For years, most serious View from new Wild Horizons Jono Hudson, VFSL GM, with Steve Kiggen, destination,” said Ross Ken- Induna Club Contractor of the World, Victoria Falls. investment in tourism infra- Elephant Camp lodges nedy, Chief Executive of The country also has some of structure has been on the dining room, bar and pool also visiting the Falls and the camp’s capacity to a total Africa Albida Tourism. “The Africa’s best game parks; the north bank of the Zambezi deck plus a business desk, taking part in other activities of 12 luxury tented suites. The Induna Club aims to attract economy is stabilizing and, as in Zambia. The Victoria Falls should it be needed. The Zam- available. Days at the lodge new units will be built to the the more discerning inter- River Lodge joins other devel- bezi River here is tranquil and can be spent on game drives, west of the existing camp and national traveller seeking an more tour operators resume extra dimension of luxury opments in and around the an ideal place to escape the fishing on the river, enjoying have views of the gorges and Zimbabwe tours, travellers and superior service. This sig- Zimbabwean town of Victo- pressures of today’s intercon- a sunset cruise, relaxing by the the spray of the Falls. The units are on the uptick. The coun- pool, in the spa or working out nificant investment reflects ria Falls as evidence of a new nected world. will feature all the amenities in try has the potential to once in the gym. The Elephant Camp’s existing our supreme confidence that again be among the top tour- optimism and confidence. The lodge is close enough Meanwhile, Wild Hori- suites. Construction com- the revitalisation of Victo- ist destinations in Africa,” At the Victoria Falls River to the town of Victoria Falls zons’ Elephant Camp is being menced on 15 January and the ria Falls and of Zimbabwe quotes the report. Lodge, the main complex to give guests the options of extended with the addition of additional rooms should come as a global tourism jewel is has an open plan lounge and enjoying the wilderness and three new suites, increasing on line from 1 July 2012. well underway.” Visit www.zambezicrescent.com

One stop ground handling and activity provider Where three countries meet on the banks of the Zambezi Victoria Falls | Livingstone | Chobe

Tours, transfers and activities White water rafting | Canoeing | Hirewire | Elephant back safaris | Lion encounters | Helicopter flips. Accommodation Elephant Camp - Luxury accommodation overlooking the gorge. Imbabala Safari Lodge - Comfortable accommodation, good fishing, great game viewing on the banks of the Zambezi.

Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571, 42013, 44426 or 44282 Cell: +263 (0) 712 213 721 or + 263 (0) 772 209 118 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] www.wildhorizons.co.za 20 Travellers Friend zambezi victoria falls Zambezi Traveller

FACT FILE ARTS & CRAFTS

This is the second UNWTO General Assembly to be held in Africa, after Senegal, 2007. What is UNWTO? As the region counts down towards the United Nations World Tourism Statistically it might take another 400 years for the Organisation’s General Assembly to be co-hosted by Zambia and next conference to be Zimbabwe in August 2013, we look at who these organisations are. considered for Africa. Zimbabwe in August 2013 The United Nations is an 2013 is the first time co- By Rose Mukogo in Victoria Falls and Liv- international organisation hosting has been adopted. ingstone, it is important to made up of 193 of the 196 The Victoria Falls PHOTO: TOM VARLEY The 2013 meeting is in s the region counts down towards the understand the institutions countries in the world. It was a resort; most previous Nations and mirrors its struc- from that of the trade sector gatherings have taken in United Nations governing world tourism and established to promote inter- A tures. The tourism sector has whose organisation is the the capital cities of World Tourism Organisa- why this conference is so cru- national peace, cooperation hosting countries. tion’s General Assembly to cial for the regional growth and human rights. UNWTO taken the prefix UN to dif- World Trade Organisation. be co-hosted by Zambia and and development of tourism. is affiliated to the United ferentiate the acronym WTO The UNWTO Gen- eral Assembly is the forum where the tourism ministers critical equipment for oil rig ZT: Who makes the ZT: How many people How safe workers, crane workers and bungee cords that you use? have bungee jumped since of member countries congre- other professionals working the accident? gate to discuss policy issues

We make our own bungee y is bungee at height – they thoroughly cords. We buy the rubber in Sonja Clay: Well over 500, affecting the sector. It is held

inspect our operation to a raw form, it comes in long ompan every alternate year and has a including Bear Grylls! C check our equipment, safety extruded belts and each belt similar set up to the UN Gen- jumping? ZT: I have to ask all of you standards and procedures and consists of forty individual B ri d ge eral Assembly in New York; threads lightly joined together. – do you jump? report accordingly. This has alls F however, the tourism sector is Continued from page 17 just happened and we have We then make up cords accord- Hosiah Mudzingwa: At We also inspect the cord ing to certain specifications that unique in holding its general passed with a 100% clean bill least one member of our crew before and after every jump match jumper weights. We jumps every day. The first assembly outside New York of health. We are also working have detailed safety procedures throughout the day and twice jump of the day is done by a and away from its own head- with the Zambian Bureau of in place for cord make-up. The V ictoria : PHOTO a year we are independently Standards to set up a set Code staff are very experienced and member of staff to check that quarters in Madrid, Spain. everything is good to go. Minister of Tourism, Honourable audited by an organization of practice for Bungee Jump- there are numerous checks Given Lubinda about to Bungee UNWTO has six regional that inspects the safety of ing for Zambia. and balances. Garth Fowler: I jump as commissions; issues relating often as I can, I love it. bungee. Then we have the Bridge Slide or “foofy” slide to tourism in sub-Saharan ZT: What have you as some people call it, which is Africa are discussed under the all gained from this great for the less adventurous Commission for Africa with a experience? and for families. Then we also membership of 48 countries. AR: The silver lining is have a Bridge Tour which is a that as a result of what hap- great experience for families Zambia and Zimbabwe pened there has never been a and tourists with an interest are also members of the pro- safer time to bungee jump at in the history of the area. Our motional and marketing Vic Falls. The new standards, Visitor Centre tells all about agency, the Regional Tour- tests and inspections we have how the bridge was build in ism Organisation of Southern implemented are probably 1905, it’s a fantastic story. Africa, which is a subsidiary setting a new standard for Infact for any visitor coming to of a regional economic group- the activity world wide. It’s the area we would say you have great to think that we are pio- to visit the bridge; there really ing of 14 member states, the neering techniques that can is something for everyone. Southern Africa Development Community. It is important make bungee jumping safer ZT: Finally, what would for everyone you say to anyone thinking that the private sector in tour- ZT: Bungee Jumping isn’t of doing a bungee jump at ism takes a keen interest in all you do is it? Victoria Falls? these forums which contribute Garth Fowler: That’s right, Garth Fowler: We would to the creation of an enabling bungee was our first activity say see you at the bridge, environment for business but in recent years we have because there has never been a at regional, continental and added a Bridge Swing, which safer or better time to bungee international levels. most of our clients tell us is jump off the famous Victoria even more exciting than the Falls Bridge. Email [email protected]

The Rainforest Café From the thunderous cascade that is the Victoria Falls to the tranquility and calm of the Rainforest. Cool down= Recharge= After a hot, long walk, take the weight off your feet. Enjoy our service, tempting dishes, ice cold drinks and the beauty of the Zimbabwean bush

Pleasure in Paradise

Large groups can be catered for with breakfast, afternoon or morning teas, lunch and Victoria Falls Rainforest Gate lunar dinners. Late closing over lunar rainbow period. Group rates available Open Daily - 8 a.m. to 6 p.m Toni-Anne Roberts tel 0776 027 547 or 013 45002 Email – [email protected] Zambezi Traveller zambezi victoria falls Travellers Friend 21

LITERATURE Community The man who wrote the guide Victoria Falls community outreach Introducing Paul

By ZT Correspondent Murray, author of the the Bradt Guide to he Victoria Falls Hotel is showing the Zimbabwe. Tway in the green- ing efforts of the premier resorts in Zimbabwe. For in their purchase of a house in the past two and half years Victoria Falls. Paul’s involve- the hotel has been recy- ment with the country led to cling its kitchen organic an invitation to write the Bradt waste, off-site using ver- Guide to Zimbabwe which miculture (worms), and was published in 2010, fol- the eco-compost from lowing three years of research. this is a very impor- tant soil nutrient for the His guiding principle was hotel’s organic herb gar- that if the book was to carry dens on-site. The hotel is By ZT correspondent his name as author, he was extending the programme determined to personally to a full eco-initiative and experience or visit every single all recycling of the hotel’s aul Murray worked for many years in the air- tourism offering included organic waste will be done PHOTO: Conservation Science at a suitable location at the Day 1 - Victoria Falls eco composting unit Pline industry, taking in the book. He reckons he hotel, a large worm farm every opportunity to travel achieved over 90% of that will be an important part farming practices into the sur- emphasis is on intensive, well The aim is for these the world in his spare time. tough objective. rounding communities where managed, high yielding plots community activities to of a Community Out- He first visited Zimbabwe Today, Paul divides his reach Centre where local poor soil and arid conditions rather than extensive hard to be twinned with wood- in 1986 to cover the Zim Sun make it difficult to grow food. time between Victoria trainers will be instructed manage fields. Importantly, land conservation. These Air Rally and quickly fell in measures will not only be Falls, Durban and the UK, in the production of high Conservation farming conservation farming meth- love with the country and designed to avoid further and he continues to write quality eco-compost and methods will build the soil ods work equally well in an its people. the latest conservation profile in homestead gardens urban environment. deforestation, but also to frequent online updates to the farming practices. and crop plots. Eco-compost restore and rehabilitate That love affair saw Paul Bradt guide as well as being The Eco-Initiative will reintroduces the vital soil biota degraded habitats. This and his wife Frances visiting involved in a number of other Managing the pro- promote community-based gramme is Conservation that is destroyed when soil is avoided deforestation Zimbabwe pretty much every travel and wildlife related Science Africa (CSA) who overworked and treated with micro-enterprises centred approach (REDD+) creates year afterwards, culminating journalistic ventures. have designed community toxic chemicals and fertiliser. around the production of con- the opportunity for carbon programmes regionally Conservation farming is servation commodities such as finance to off-set the costs MORE ONLINE in Zambia, Botswana and an important tool in reduc- eco-compost, conservation- of avoiding shifting agri- Kenya. The team wants ing shifting agriculture and farmed produce, wildlife, trees culture, deforestation and www.zambezitraveller.com to spread conservation reducing deforestation as the and carbon. habitat destruction. The Zambezi River is now officially online 22 Travellers Friend zambezi victoria falls Zambezi Traveller

ARTS & CRAFTS CHARITY A Vic Falls Renaissance The Rotary Club of Travellers to Victoria Falls will beat a new path to the revamped outlet of handmade and collectors Victoria Falls update jewellery known as African Renaissance based in the Victoria Falls Hotel. The Rotary Club of Victoria Falls, together with “Children in the Wilderness” have paid school By Frances Jackson fees for 63 pupils including our first student to attend university. frican Renaissance Pharmacy student, studying in in the Victoria Falls By Anne Taggart, President the U.S.A.

Hotel has recently A Together with the Rotary Club The Rotary Club will be hold- undergone a complete facelift. of Beira, Mozambique, we have ing a “Murder on the Victoria Falls Beautiful works of art and donated Items to the pre school Steam Train” event in the middle jewellery adorn the shelves at Z.R.P. station in Victoria Falls of the year. Thanks to Sean Young making it worth a visit just With the help of Zimbabwe for offering this opportunity to to gaze. Tourism Services and the Odys- us to raise funds for the needy. Champion of local art, seys Travel Group, The Rotary Club Zambezi Traveller will pub- of Victoria Falls, continues to help lish in their website the exact Gail Van Jaarsveldt, along PHOTO: GAIL van JAARSVELDT Colourful crafts inside the African Renaissance Chinotimba Primary School, with dates of this event when it has with creative genius Chris- their ‘wish’ list. been confirmed.

tie Brookstein and a talented T called the African Renaissance the kingdoms of Africa. Pieces Another lot of desks and team of resident artists have Victoria Falls Rotarian’s would Collection. of history and beauty are dis- chairs are being organized for given this prime shopping Chamabonda school through a like to welcome any interested location a distinctive look. The African Renaissance played together with original JAARSVEL D matching grant. persons, to attend their Thurs- Zimbabwean museum arti- van Shelves are stocked with one- Collection is exclusive to Vic- The first recipient of the Rotary day luncheon meetings, which off collector’s items and an toria Falls Hotel and offers an facts on loan from The Jafuta Club of Victoria Falls Scholarship are held between 1 and 2pm at

exclusive range of jewellery insight into the old realms of Heritage Centre. GAIL PHOTO: award, is a 4th year Doctor of Ilala Lodge.

Education ‘Isikolo Project’ celebrates computer studies

T h e Original P atr ick M avros PHOTOs: BAOBAB PRIMARY SCHOOL 3 ~St r and Elep hant H air Bangle The children have a feel of their new computers i n S ter ling Silver, f o r Adventur e r s Baobab Primary school celebrated at the beginning of March when their computer studies department officially opened. school soccer field for fundraising. This painting and subse- By ZT Correspondent HASLEMERE LANE, UMWINSIDALE, HARARE quent prints raised an incredible $45,000. These funds have TEL: 860131 MOB: 0772 414 414 been used to build and equip up to date computer room. WWW.PATRICKMAVROS.COM Zambezi Traveller reported in 2010 on the amazing Isikolo [email protected] Project where the Young Presidents Organisation gave the This amazing facility will hold 40 students at time and school an amazing face lift. Larry Norton the world renowned will also be used to assist with an adult computer literacy wild life artist donated a painting depicting elephants on the programme in the evening.

zambesi-traveller-02-12.indd 1 23/02/2012 16:31 Zambezi Traveller zambezi victoria falls Travellers Friend 23

ARTS & CRAFTS The Ruoko Project at Elephant’s Walk The Ruoko Project at Elephant’s Walk Complex,Victoria Falls, takes up the challenge of actively supporting selected artists instead of simply warehousing their works for sale “It all happened organi- Artists are provided with the “There is an incredible syn- Gail has provided me with cally,” said Brookstein. “We best possible tools for their ergy with this project; many of beautiful materials and I am knew these people, we knew trade so that they can produce the items are created by more surrounded by other artists to a quality product. they were struggling and we than one person. We also have learn from. The highlight for realized that by collaborating Training is provided to other people on the fringe of me so far was collaborating we could do something spe- enable the artists to work with the Ruoko Project who benefit with Kelly Landry (jewellery cial. Between us all, we had a multitude of media. Gift as they may do the beadwork, designer) and seeing our pieces the creative ability and energy. Sithole, a wire sculptor, now braiding or cutting. We con- sell well.” Moses Kalembela. “We were also becom- works with gold and silver sider these to be ‘Friends of Sharing ideas an important part of Ruoko Photo: Elephant’s Walk wire, semi precious stones ing aware that today’s tourist Ruoko.’ The Ruoko group “I love drawing bushmen, Leamington, Christie, Gail, Obert, Moses, Gift. and does elaborate cast wax likes an interactive experience and I was a bit like a bush- moulds for the Ndau studio. are aware of their responsibil- From hardship a crea- and that they want to see man myself, wandering from By Frances Jackson Moses Kalembela the scrim- ity to empower others and are tive solution was born; an local talent at work. We had shaw artist has moved on from always willing to share their place to place, country to empowering initiative called the opportunity to make ostrich eggs and cow horn to skills,” said Van Jaarsveldt. country. I did not believe that rading in curios and the Ruoko Project is uplifting Elephant’s Walk more than a authentic African jew- collaborating with jewellery I was an artist; Gail took me four artists who were strug- shopping complex, we could “We want our artists to work ellery for more than 18 artists in creating high-end from illustrating tin cups and T gling to survive in the current make it a destination.” in a stress-free environment, to jewellery pieces. years, Gail Van Jaarsveldt has economic climate. leave their worries at home and made me realize that I have a developed a unique eye for “Since the 90’s we have let Leamington Muzhingi, a “Talented artists were come here and create, and then talent. I feel I belong here and talent and creative expression. a select group from the curio pencil artist who once believed coming to my door to sell reap the financial benefits of know that my work is good.” But the past ten years have market sell their wares within that unless you were a painter, their work and I couldn’t buy their work.” Leamington Muzhingi. been challenging and hard for our garden courtyard for free,” you were not an artist, is now it,” said Van Jaarsveldt. “I retail outlets to maintain stock said Van Jaarsveldt. “They working on a curated collec- “As an artist I have been “My mosaics were good wanted to find a way that these levels and pay for artefacts. have always maintained a high tion where his exquisite pencil craftsmen could develop their empowered to take my talent for Johannesburg, but Johan- Van Jaarsveldt witnessed portraits are uniquely com- talents, stay within Zimbabwe standard of work and con- to another level. I have been nesburg was not good for me. some of the best Zimbabwean ducted business professionally, bined with jewellery. given new materials to work I love exploring new ways to talent leaving home for greener and have a viable business. so the blueprint for something Obert Monga, the mosaic with; I have more opportu- pastures across borders. The “All of the members of the work with mosaics, and this bigger was in place.” artist who once used to create biggest wire art company in Ruoko Project have excep- nity to explore my creativity.” project is making me focus giant pieces for the City of South Africa is almost totally tional talent, but they needed Elephant’s Walk and the Gift Sithole. on ways to make this work for Johannesburg is back home staffed by Zimbabwean art- materials, space to work, Ruoko Project provides the “I have been given a home, me. My fellow artists also keep artists with free work space in making gorgeous mosaic belt ists, says Christie Brookstein, business strategising and a place where I am now work- me motivated and on track.” marketing and public relations an appropriate environment, buckles with stones, beads and sound marketing. We have ing to a professional level. Obert Monga. manager for Elephant’s Walk the resources to do this at business advice, exposure bone that sell well. complex in Victoria Falls. Elephant’s Walk.” and international marketing.

A small but dedicated team of leather craftsmen who provide a timeless leather product designed to last the ages. We strive to create unique hand-crafted, durable and elegant, genuine leather products.

crocodile, elephant and hippo leather

Elephants Walk Shopping Village, or the African Renaissance shop [email protected] in the Victoria Falls Hotel 24 Travellers Friend zambezi victoria falls Zambezi Traveller

DEVELOPMENT Batoka Power Scheme revisited It was announced in February that Zambia and The proposed Batoka site A wider power deficit is Zimbabwe have signed a joint Memorandum of is located approximately 50 expected to grow across the Understanding to develop the 1,600 megawatt km below the Victoria Falls region in the next few years, Batoka Hydro Power Station. on the Zambezi River. Once threatening the longer term completed it would supply availability of power imports By Peter Roberts by Zimbabwe from the divi- 800 MW of power to each to Zimbabwe. of the two countries. It is also sion of assets which were The proposed hydro- believed that the project could jointly owned by the two coun- electric dam and lake t is estimated the project enhance generating capacity at tries during the period of the would flood large sections could cost in excess of Kariba power station, down- Federation of Rhodesia and of the Batoka Gorge and US$4 billion. Advanced stream of the Batoka Gorge I Nyasaland, when the Kariba there are concerns over feasibility studies will now be site, by 300 MW. Hydro Power Station was the environmental impact commissioned and proposals Zimbabwe suffers from built. It was announced in of the project. There are to secure funding drawn up. a power deficit and desper- January that Zimbabwe had also concerns within the The project was initially ately needs to boost power tourism industry as to agreed to pay off more than proposed in 1993, but a major generating facilities within how the project will affect obstacle to the agreement has $70 million in settlement of the country, currently import- activities at Victoria Falls, been the outstanding settle- this issue, paving the way for ing a third of its needs from especially the world renowned Photo: TOM VARLEY the February’s agreement. neighbouring countries. Batoka Gorge ment of debts owed to Zambia white-water rafting .

RECREATION The long term goal is to The first of these is the Victoria bring the Elephant Hills Falls Steam Train Golf Classic Victoria Falls tees off once again course to a standard to host the from 27 – 30 April 2012, which Zimbabwe Golf Open as part will bring together tourists and A major upgrade of Victoria Falls’ famous golf of the Sunshine Tour in the corporate attendees from across course is underway through a partnership be- next three to four years. This Southern Africa. tween African Sun hotel group and the Victoria will bring global exposure for “The hope is that in the the region with international Falls Steam Train Company. near future we will have television coverage. international golfers grac- “Livingstone Golf Course Tour which will create a For this to happen, other ing the greens of Victoria large golfing events will take Falls. Perhaps one day a Zim- and the Botswana, Mowana golfing safari like no other. Golfers will see three different place to demonstrate the babwean golfer will win a Golf Course are also in the y countries and have an African ability of the course and sup- prestigious championship on process of upgrading in prep- experience including other porting infrastructure to host the 18th at Elephant Hills,” said ompan C aration for a Three Countries activities along the way.” events of this magnitude. the spokesperson. T rain S team alls F : V ictoria : P hoto Wartog strolling around the course

By ZT correspondent The sprinkler system and overall course condition is also undergoing a complete over- ork has already haul. “This is positive news begun on the Ele- for the region, as it may bring phant Hills Golf W back golfing tourism from Course, with all tee boxes on the course being rebuilt. local, South African and espe- Sponsors of each tee box cially overseas markets,” said a reconstruction will have an spokesperson for the Victoria advertising board at the site. Falls Steam Train Company.

Situated on the famous “Tiger Mile” of the upper Zambezi at Msuna, Hwange

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Built on the Zambezi River front, this luxury lodge boasts of a wide range of facilities to make a holiday for the whole family a truly memorable one! F A L L S E S T A T E A G E N T S

For enquiries or bookings please contact Charles (+263 773 256 560) or Alexandra (+263 77 2573560) [email protected] Email: [email protected] Tel: (+263 4 745 302/317) www.victoriafallsproperties.com Zambezi Traveller zambezi victoria falls Travellers Friend 25

Adventure From our valley to the top of the Andes Victoria Falls resident Sara Norton defeated all FACT FILE odds to summit Mount Cerro Aconcagua, the second most prominent mountain in the world. She was one of only two climbers to finish this Cerro Aconcagua Elevation: 22,841 ft (6,962 m) attempt from among the group of twenty Prominence: 22,841 ft (6,962 enthusiasts from all over the world. m), 2nd most prominent mountain in the world I chatted briefly with her By Frances Jackson Location: Andes, Argentina physiotherapist who was a key Coordinates: 32°39’20”S player in her preparation for 70°00’57” W ictoria Falls resident this grueling endeavour - and First Ascent: Swiss climber and managing direc- almost became as emotional as Matthias Zurbriggen, solo tor of The Project him when he passionately told V ascent, 1897 Sarah on the Zambezi River Sarah on the top of the world Company Sara Norton has me of his huge admiration and defeated all odds and man- great pride in Sara. Aconcagua lies within Acon- Aconcagua is the highest point South America. The Andes pass Mathias Zurbriggen reached aged to summit Mount Cerro Norton talked of how close cagua Provincial Park in the in the Andes, the world’s long- through seven countries - Colum- the summit alone on January Aconcagua, the second most she came to her fellow climb- province of Mendoza in the est mountain range. The Andes, bia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, 14 via today’s Normal Route. ers and of how she rarely cries Republic of Argentina. The prominent mountain in beginning in northern South Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. in public, but as she said good- mountain lies completely A few days later Nicholas Lanti the world. America and ending at the con- bye to each climber as they within Argentina and, unlike The first known ascent of Acon- and Stuart Vines made the tinent’s southern tip, stretch over Twenty climbing enthu- turned back, she shed many a many other Andean peaks, cagua was during an expedition second ascent. These were the siasts from all over the world heartfelt tear. does not sit on the international 4,300 miles (7,000 km) in a narrow led by Edward FitzGerald in the highest ascents in the world at made the attempt during this border with Chile. band along the west edge of summer of 1897. Swiss climber that time. period and all except two were She was astounded by the overcome by harsh weather beauty of this rugged land- conditions, altitude sick- scape and how it was all so This is not the first of that Everest Base Camp was Norton home with hugs and I suspect it also inspires us ness and the sheer physical much more than she imagined. Norton’s climbing achieve- the proverbial walk in the park “Wow, you’re amazing” greet- bigger girls to dream big too! struggle of the climb. She was the only woman in the ments; last year she by comparison. Well done, Sara. group, and hearing of the gen- ings, Norton paused to think. successfully climbed to Ever- Being a small, close-knit eral nitty, gritty of everyday When Madeleine (Norton’s Maybe her crazy desire to do MORE ONLINE Read Sara’s own record est Base Camp. Listening to ten year old daughter) and her community, residents of Vic- bodily functions, I was put off these things serves to inspire of her incredible journey in the toria Falls town are immensely climbing any mountain - like her recounting her Aconca- boisterous group of girl friends Victoria Falls section proud of Norton’s achievement. I ever would! gua experience, it is evident enthusiastically welcomed little girls to dream big. www.zambezitraveller.com

Entertainment Event organiser Sarah Brown says www.primeart-gallery.com the reason for the possible move is the organisers’ concern that Falls Fest people will not travel to Victoria Falls for a fourth year in a row. “Kariba is closer for a lot of people. to move It’s cheaper, people can camp and stay on houseboats and , DOMINIC BENHURA downriver? since there is already a tradition of people heading to Kariba every New Year, everything is already in By Mana Meadows place,” said Brown. “For Harare people it will mean a Photo: FALLS FEST Falls Fest, the New Years Eve four hour drive rather than a ten Partying into 2012 musical extravaganza which hour drive. Also, it will provide fully-booked accommodations A jam-packed music lineup of has been held in Victoria Falls for much needed business for Kariba.” and increased adventure sports local and South African per- three years, may move to Kariba Brown cautioned that nothing bookings may have compensated formers included Evicted, Ryan this year. Revellers should take has yet been confirmed and this as due warning! that the move is still in the plan- for the loss of peace and quiet! Koriya, Clint and Co, CrashCar- Burn, The First Descent, Ghapi Our Gallery is situated at the Elephant’s Walk Shopping Village. ning stages. “There are still lots of Sponsored by Ilala Lodge, the After three years gracing the and the popular electro pop We also have a display of some of the artwork at the Victoria Falls logistical obstacles before we can event has gone from strength to Airport’s departure lounge, and at the Historical Chogm Park in town of Victoria Falls with its duo Locnville. annual deluge of enthusias- make a final decision,” she said. strength with 2011 seeing around Victoria Falls where some of our larger works have been featured. tic year-end party-goers, the Vic Falls residents have graciously 3500 people attending the party Whether it’s upstream or popular New Year ‘Falls Fest’ shared their town with revellers for on 30 December and just over downstream on the Zambezi 273 Adam Stander Drive, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. may lose its ‘Falls’ tag and move the four day period over the last 4000 people attending the main for 2012 – we look forward to Tel +263-772 239 805 Fax +263-13-42783 to Kariba this year. three years; the tourism returns of event on the 31st. the next one! Email- [email protected] Email- [email protected]

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe the project management co. Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Contact us for your wildlife experience... Tel/fax: 013 45821 Cell: 0712 209 144 Co-ordinators of design and construction Email: [email protected] projects for homes, lodges and hotels. External and interior designs conceptualized. Game Drives Renovations undertaken. Bird Watching safaris Walking Safaris P.O. Box CT534, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Sara Norton +263772606233 or +2631344074 Special interest Safaris & more... Email – [email protected] 26 Travellers Friend zambezi victoria falls Zambezi Traveller

Advertise in the Victoria Falls Classifieds Mel Hudson [email protected] +263 775 297519

Accommodation Activities CADAC Gas Equipment Charity Events Hardware Stores Restaurants

Attention Overlanders, 4x4 Safari Hire, Sealent Safaris - Specialises in Accomodation, CADAC gas equipment – Wide range, compet- conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electri- The Victoria Falls Hotel : Stanley’s Terrace, cal, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Budget Groups. Vic Falls Holiday Home Rental. Tours, Chobe Trips, Kariba Ferries, Mana Pools. Office itively priced. Our products include, skottel braai ensure a safe environment for visitors and local resi- cosmopolitan lunch No 16, Sopers Arcade. Tel : 013 40237, 0772 279083. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room, Sleeps 16 twin beds. Superb tranquil gardens, $100.00 , 3kg cylinder $57.99 , 5kg cylinder $63.00 dents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone Email : [email protected]. , standard regulator $13.50 , Eazilite 100CP $40.00 wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the 788, 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area fine dining with a 7 course menu. pool & braai area, secure parking. 10 minute , Eazilite 300CP $57.50 , 2-plate stove $73.00 , dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junc- walk to CBD. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecol- Artists & Art Galleries 500g gas cartridge threaded $8.00 , Grillo gas Kevin Fry +263 (0) 772 872646 Hotels & Safari Lodges tion, international buffet and African Spectacu- [email protected], www.vicfallsguide.com braai $75.00 , mantle 100CP $2.70 , mantle 300CP lar show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, email : [email protected]. $3.20 , cooker top $19.00 , glass 100CP $7.90 , glass Cultural Activities Elephant Camp. The Elephant Camp is a Attention HARARE Visitors. Self cater- 300CP $9.50 , Adventure Eazi Kit $41.00.See our luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only ing 4X4 Cottage, Cromlet Entrprise. 15kms modern, well stocked wholesale warehouse oppo- 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all it’s attrac- Restcamps from Harare. Miombo woodlands amidst site Marange Motors.Tradepower Wholesale Vic Falls TRADITIONAL tions and activities, yet secluded in it’s own private hills & rivers, ideal birding, trekking, biking, - Telephone (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / game reserve so as to allow close up encounters exploring. Darryl + 263 712610222, 0774 022 312 LUNCHES with wildlife. Email: [email protected] [email protected], www.vicfallsguide.com Catering Services Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge. Located Traditional authentic in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi Attention HARARE Visitors. Self The Larry Norton Gallery. Original and repro- lunches and dinners in the river frontage Imbabala is reknowned for it’s catering Goose Cottage Higlands, duced fine art wildlife and landscape images available Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 Sleeps 4. Darryl + 263 712610222, from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in (Pvt) Ltd. 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, heart of the Victoria Falls (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: info@wild- [email protected], www.vicfallsguide.com the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian community. horizons.co.zw. www.wildhorizons.co.za Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 Call Tsitsi on +263 (0) 776 144 080, 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) Attention FISHHOEK CAPETOWN Visitors. +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: [email protected] and Flatter on +263 (0) 712 926 678. The Victoria Falls Hotel. ***** Situated on a Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town website: www.larrynorton.co.za 775 121 406. Email: [email protected] world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Whales, Sharks, Penguins, Beachlife. Self cater- Email : [email protected] overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 ing townhouse. Sleeps 4, long term and short term Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, B&B Cellphones hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the semi luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours rentals. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecolynx@zol. romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Market- & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 co.zw, www.vicfallsguide.com Fishing & Fisherman ing Manager. Email: [email protected]. 13 40509 - 11. Email: [email protected] Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls. Full English Cell Phones - brand new, guaranteed for one co.zw. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9 Breakfast. Ensuite Rooms. Home cooked year: Nokia, Samsung and Motorolla. Genuine Activities dinners. Your home away from home. Phone: Fishermen flystreamers for sale, rods repaired. handsets at the officially appointed distributor for Call Tim +263 (0) 712 208 374 Screen Printing +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Victoria Falls at distributor prices. Contact Trade- Ice Service Shearwater Victoria Falls. Experience the Big Email: [email protected]. 10% discount power, Victoria Falls. Tel: (013) 44870/44871 or Screenworks - For all your screen printing require- on production of this advertisement. Ice always available at Tradepower Whole- 5 on Shearwater’s private game reserve, just 12km 0712587123/0774022312 Food Agencies ments, T/shirts, Banners, Posters etc. Call Zenzo + 263 Email: [email protected] sale Victoria Falls - 7kg bag for $2-20. Tel: (013) 775 728342 / + 263 712 614244. Email screenworks- from Victoria Falls town and enjoy seeing Afri- Mosi-Ua-Tunya B&B, six en-suite rooms, air Victoria Foods – Tradepower Wholesale Victoria 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123/0774 022 312. [email protected]. 16 Sopers Arcade, Victoria Falls. ca’s rare black rhino. Contact Shearwater Central conditioned, and additional family accommoda- Falls is the official distributor for Victoria Foods in the Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, Reservations P.O. Box 125, Victoria Falls, Zimba- tion available. Located 603 Mahogany Road. Reser- Cigars Falls and surrounding area. where service to you will be a pleasure. vations call: +263 (0) 13 44336, email moslodge@ For quality flour, rice, mealie meal, snacks, salt and Specialist Guide bwe, Tel:+263 (0) 13 44471-3, 42058, 40056-8 yoafrica.com, cell +263 (0)772 462 837. Ritmeester and Blackstone cigars – Trade- sugar beans, please visit our modern warehouse Laundry Service Fax:+263 (0) 13 44341 Cell:+263 (0) 712 406 668, power Wholesale Victoria Falls are the distributors located on Mile Road, opposite Marange Motors. Attention Agents. VIC FALLS BIRDING & +263(0) 773 461 716 [email protected] Tokkie Lodge, your home from home Tel: (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 SPECIAL INTEREST TOURLEADER/GUIDE, full for these superior cigars. Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Rest- whilst travelling. Contact +263 (0) 43306 Telephone us on (013) 44870 / 0774 022 312 022 312 email: [email protected] & half day trips available, with extended over- or Manache +263 (0) 0712 207396. camp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) night options. Darryl + 263 712610222, ecol- Email: [email protected] We do not sell individual packets of cigars, we only 40509-11 or +263 (0)772 347687 supply shrink wraps to the trade. Forklift [email protected], www.vicfallsguide.com The Villa Victora. Self catering guest house. Five Locksmith Discover Safaris Charles Brightman P O Box CT en suite rooms, home away from home environ- Convenience Store Forklift to take a weight off your shoulders. Trade- 544 Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, Tel/Fax + 263 13 ment. Phone + 263 13 44386, Cell + 263 712 power Wholesale Victoria Falls has a 3 tonne forklift for hire at an hourly rate. Please phone Neil on (013) 45821, Cell + 263 712 209144 or + 263 917 747 700261, email : [email protected] for further Victoria Falls Locksmiths - Providers of 24hr 426, Skype : charlesbrightman, Specialising in information. 44870/44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. key cutting and lock-out services. Tel : Levi on 013 Please visit our modern wholesale warehouse, 44526, Cell 0778 132 220 or 0712 764 486 Email : walking safaris, game drives, bird watching trips where service to you will be a privilege. [email protected] and tailor made safaris. Finalist in the Safari Awards Beauty therapy Category. Best Personal Contibution to Wildlife Conservation, www.safariawards.com/winners11 Fresh Produce Logistics & Supply The Zambezi Helicopter Company. View The one and only convenience store in Victoia Specialist Tour Operator Falls. Open 7 days a week Monday to Saturday Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from the vastness of the Victoria Falls and its surrounds Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, 7am to 11pm and Sundays from 7am till 9pm. We Zambezi Safari & Travel Co. Registered in the the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the will cater for all your food needs during your stay Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Bricks, cement, quarry stone, thatching grass and timber. Contact: UK and ATOL protected, have a Professional Guide magnificent splendour of the Zambezi River and in Vic Falls. Situated in the centre of town opposite and Safari consultant based Victoria Falls, we cover the Rest Camp, Shop 6 Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls. +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376 its Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Fresh fruit and Vegetable stocked daily Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. We Contact us on (013) 43429. have 28 years of on hand experience on the ground Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: 283 Holland Road, Industrial Area Tyress Beauty & Health & Hair Salon. Packaged Snacks here. Contact Chris Worden, professional guide/ +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. +263 13 42237/44008/9 Manicures Pedicures Artificial Nails Facials Charity Events +263 772399779 director. www.zambezi.com. www.bushcamps. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc.reserva- Make-up Massages Waxing Tweezing Body Scrub Montagu Mixed Nuts & Fruits – Our range of com. www.luangwa.net. Email: chris@zambezi. +263773462343 com. Tel: 44 (0) 1548 830059 (UK head office) [email protected]. Skype: zambezihelicop- Braiding. For all your relaxation & body treatments. Once a month a number of Victoria Falls resi- superb nuts, dried fruits and snack mixes are always Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Tel : 013 45039, Cell: +263 +263 (0) 13 44427 (Victoria Falls office). Cell: ters Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com dents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few fresh and available at Tradepower Victoria Falls. +263 (0) 774 109581. Skype: zambezi_chris. ATOL 772 607 940, email: [email protected]. We luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people 100g and 200g packs. Display stands and in-store also do all Hair Treatments, No 5 Pumula Centre. protected: licence number 10135. Winner Z.A.A in the community that are struggling to make advertising available for retail stockists. Tourism Award 2011 ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to Hairdressing Salon Call us on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / Bakery Requisites this can email Cathrina Gover: gover@yoafrica. 0774 022 312 for our representative to visit you. com and Mel Hudson: [email protected] Victoria Falls Hair Salon - We do all types of hair- Swimming Pool Bakeries and Hotels - Tradepower Wholesale do’s, manicures and pedicures. 307 Parkway Drive. Trekkers Biltong – Outstanding quality chilli or Chemicals & Products Victoria Falls are the Vic Falls distributors for Bakels Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thurs- Tel + 263 13 40981, Cell + 263 712 716 930 plain flavoured beef snapsticks in 35g, 75g and 150g day at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. Zimbabwe. For bulk cocoa powder, icing sugar, cake and distributed by Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Tradepower Victoria Falls have a wide range of mix, almond paste, pettinice, cooking chocolate, For further information please contact our club Hardware Stores Falls. Please contact Neil Norman on (013) 44870 hoses, leaf scoops and brushes. We are the agents sesame seeds, baking powder, greaseproof paper, president Anne Taggart on +263 (0)772 254552 / 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 for us to Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider glace cherries, tincol, bread premix, rollex or master- for Blu52 chemicals and Eezi Pool acid, test kits, or Josh Ncube on +263 (0)772 105515 or, our visit your establishment with advice and details of chlorine floaters and chlorine. Contact Neil Norman: offering a range of tours and activities including puff please phone Neil Norman on (013) 44870 / club secretary Babara on +263 (0)773 228084. Builders’ Hardware. For all your building mate- 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 to request rial visit Builders’ Hardware, Old PG/Johnson & wholesale pricing including stands and in-store (013) 44870/44871 or 0712587123/0774022312 rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high advertising which are available to boost your sales. our speciality bakery representative to call upon you Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit. A donar Fletcher building, Orders done to your specification. wire activities. Email: [email protected] to provide advice and suggestions on new products. funded iniative between private and public sector in Contact Thandi 0772 347687/ Itai 0712 597465 Thatching Grass Paint Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Super quality PVA and Gloss at unbeliev- Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heart- R ably low prices. Imported and always in our stock. land. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline A I Y D We also have painting accessories, brushes, roll- +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: derekdianawilk@ ers, sand paper etc. Tradepower Wholesale mango.zw or contact local agent, John Dewd- (013) 44870/1 or 0774 022 312 / 0712 587 123. ney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534 email: [email protected] website: http..//thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs,com Pharmacies Upholstery

Victoria Falls Pharmacy shop No.3 Phumula Centre, close to Chicken Inn ENC fresher for longer ID complex. Tel +263 (0) 13 44403, after hours Y cell: +263 (0) 712 4051269/+263 (0) 712 405 270. W VICTORIA VICTORIA FALLS FALLS Property

Attention Property Buyers & Sellers. VIC For all your canvas and tarpaulin prod- FALLS PROFESSIONAL PROPERTY SALES & RENT- ucts, game drive vehicle seat and canopies, boat ALS. Darryl + 263 712610222, [email protected], blinds.Office and household furniture contact on www.vicfallsguide.com 0773000888/9 Refridgeration Wholesale Liquor Sales

Tradepower Victoria Falls are the agents and distributors for a wide range of liquor brands. Swaartland Wines are our speciality, including all famous liquor labels. Also a full range of canned soft drinks and mixers always available at genu- ine wholesale prices. Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / Cooling Horizon - Provides Cooling and Refrig- 44871 or 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312. eration and Air Conditioning. Contact Becky 0773 537428 / 0772 341048 / 0712 593586. Email : [email protected] Wholesale Poultry

Chicken – Zimbabwean bred FAIRHILL chick- Repairs and Workshops ens are outstanding in quality and value. Whole AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING SUPERMARKETS birds, breasts, thighs, drumsticks, wings or in mixed Amherst Engineering T/A Zambezi Motors portions. Tradepower Wholesale Victoria Falls. Limpopo Dairy Depot, Industrial Sites, Victoria Falls, opposite Marange Motors - for vehicle repairs and maintenance, situated Contact Neil on (013) 44870 / 44871 or 0712 Tel: (013) 44870 / 1 Fax: (013) 44871, Mobile: 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 - Mr Neil Norman behind Avis/Total. Burce: +263 712 336 017, 587 123 / 0774 022 312. Our modern freezing Email: [email protected] / [email protected] Roy: +263 712 747 306, Shayle: +263 772 284 689. facilities ensure absolute freshness always.

Zambezi Traveller zambezi victoria falls Travellers Friend 27

ANTI- CHARITY Victoria Falls Steam Train fund raiser for VFAPU 30 March 2012 - US$40.00 Poacher killed in rhino war Duration: Leave approx 17h00 In mid February 2012 a poacher was shot and killed after a gun battle with scouts in Hwange National Park. from Vic Falls station, arrive back about 23h00 Journey – go to bridge, then on to Jafuta Siding where there will be a bonfire and entertainment DJ Francis will be entertaining guests on the train Canapes and snacks to be served throughout the journey Cash bar at reasonable prices.

Booking : Tel: 263 13 429 12 or [email protected]

ANTI-POACHING Proud VFAPU scouts

Bull rhino left to die PHOTO: SAVE VALLEY CONSERVANCY

By ZT Correspondent National Parks person- by Shearwater Adventures nel called for the support of A ‘shoot to kill’ and property owners Rani Zambezi Helicopter Com- policy has been Resorts is a rare success story he poachers had pany, which sent a helicopter in the Zambezi area, with the dehorned a black rhino adopted by several to Hwange to assist in a hot only remaining black rhino

and left the bull to bleed in the proximity of Victoria B rightman T pursuit, but the rest of the African countries to death in a ditch. National Falls. This flagship conserva- gang escaped. Parks called for the support but does not seem tion project is situated on the of Zambezi Helicopter Com- A ‘shoot to kill’ policy to deter poaching. Victoria Falls Private Game pany, who sent a helicopter to has been adopted by several Reserve and is now home to C harles PHOTO: assist with the pursuit. African countries but does six black rhino, three of which The sixteen man unit serves to combat the various forms of poach- not seem to deter poaching. more than its weight in gold, were born on the estate. ing that occurs in the bush surrounding Victoria Falls. Patrolling A poacher was shot and In South Africa in 2011, 443 valued at around $50,000 In an example of how tour- seven days a week, the scouts are actively involved in searching for killed in a gun battle with deadly wire snares that have been set by bush meat poachers as per kg. This is a war which ism can contribute to the scouts in Hwange National rhino have been poached. This well as deterring wood, fish and mineral poaching in the National is a rate of one rhino killed threatens the black rhino future of endangered wildlife, Park in mid February. part of the proceeds of receipts Park. VFAPU works in close co-operation with the National Parks every 20 hours. with extinction. The poachers had dehorned a from game drives to see these and Wildlife Management Authority and the Zimbabwe Republic black rhino and left the bull to Fuelled by insatiable Asian Meanwhile, a rhino breed- rare beasts goes to their protec- Police, to achieve many successes. The unit was set up by Charles Brightman, and the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge in 1999. bleed to death in a ditch. demand, rhino horn is worth ing programme supported tion and preservation.

WHOLESALE AT VICTORIA FALLS

Industrial Sites, Victoria Falls, opposite Marange Motors Tel: (013) 44870 / 1 Fax: (013) 44871 Mobile: 0712 587 123 / 0774 022 312 - Mr Neil Norman Email: [email protected] Bulawayo 28 on your way to the Zambezi

HISTORY Mystery and magic in Matobo Archaeologist, historian and guide Paul Hubbard tells of his love for the The art is metaphori- Ever a place of refuge and place of serenity, beauty and ancient and spectacular hills of Matobo, filled with relics from prehistory cal and symbolic to a degree conflict, the Matobo Hills peace. Each group that lived which is hard to appreciate have witnessed trials and trib- within the hills has left their to modern times. today. One particular paint- ulations of human endeavour mark. The painted caves later ing from Inanke Cave should over the millennia. became important shrines By Paul Hubbard be a World Heritage Site in for the traditional worship of Shattered fragments of their its own right, because of the God, calling believers from magnificent quality of its dreams and achievements he Matobo Hills across the region. images. These closely packed, are found everywhere in the World Heritage Site multi-coloured ovals create an hills – from shards to Today, walking around these Tis acknowledged by image called a ‘formling,’ an overgrown battlefields. All hills becomes something like UNESCO as having the important and highly complex give mute testimony to how a pilgrimage. Almost every greatest density of ancient group of images associated these people lived, loved and event of historical significance painted sites anywhere in the with termites, termite nests died in this timeless environ- in Matabeleland can be traced world, and more archaeo- and spiritual potency. ment. Paradoxically, it is a back to the Matobo. logical work has been done The ovals mimic the egg on these sites than anything chambers in the heart of the else in the area. More than nest and careful inspection of Zimbabwe born Paul Hubbard is a professional 3,000 are known and more the lower portion of the paint- archaeologist with expertise in studies as well as the pre-colonial period in southern are recorded every year. ing shows paintings of flying PHOTO: PAUL HUBBARD Africa. Formerly a university lecturer, he now Nanke formling ants entering one end and exit- At times, when out on ing the other, confirming the works as an independent archaeological con- a survey, it feels as though bright as the day they were ago) as a part of the religion hypothesis. The lovely giraffes sultant and tour guide. He can usually be found almost every place you look painted as to make you doubt and spiritual practices of the painted over and around this wandering in the Matobo Hills where he guides guests out of Camp Amalinda, some of whom has a wonderful little painting their great antiquity. nomadic hunter-gatherers image are likely metaphors for - or even better a large panel who created them. Most healing and healing rituals. have travelled far to meet him personally. filled with scores of images. Most paintings in the area images are probably at least Often, these paintings are are thought to have been done 2,000 years old, created using so brilliantly preserved, the in the , (dating pigments made from various CULTURE colours seemingly as fresh and from 13,000 to 1,500 years mineral oxides. The song of the carnivores

RESERVATIONS Tel: +263 9 64868 / 9, Fax: +263 9 246436 [email protected] | [email protected]

PHOTO: HUMPHREY GUMPO www.campamalinda.com The cheetah

By ZT correspondent de Bulawayo, the Zimbabwe Academy of Music, ’ama- Lecture Series Books Publishers, the Howard Programme inking conservation G. Buffet Foundation and the and the creative worlds Cheetah – On the myth of music and writing, Zoological Society of London. IvoryPLACE OF ELEPHANTSLodge L that cheetahs are genetically The Song of the Carnivores The first stage of the pro- doomed and need to be programme started with ject was a poetry competition, captive bred to be saved. See a poetry competition and with both school children and continues into 2012 with a full story on page 37. www.ivorysafarilodge.com lecture series and the first adults invited to write about public performance of a spe- the five carnivores. This part Lion – On the myth that cially commissioned piece of the project will culminate trophy hunting is bad for lion of music at the Bulawayo in the winning entries being conservation (16 February). Music Festival. put to music by the celebrated Wild Dog – On the myth Poetry and song will come British composer, Richard that they are cruel hunt- together in a celebration of the Sissons. The composition ers that decimate wild prey majesty and beauty of Africa’s will premiere at the biennial populations (22 March). five large carnivores in ‘The Bulawayo Music Festival Song of the Carnivores,’ an during May 2012. Parallel Leopard – On the myth innovative programme to raise www.bulawayoclub.com with the creative programme that there are plenty of awareness and appreciation of leopards, that they are simply the cheetah, leopard, lion, wild is a series of five talks to be given in Bulawayo to dispel a problem animal and that we dog and spotted hyaena. can continue hunting them myths about each of the Taking you to your destination... Uniquely linking the worlds indefinitely with no problem carnivores and to encour- of conservation and the arts, (19 April). the collaborative venture is age action to ensure their Spotted Hyaena – On the supported by the Cheetah continued survival. and Wild Dog Regional Pro- myth that they are simply gramme, the British Council www.cheetahandwilddog.org lowly scavengers that impact transfer service on lions (17 May). Zimbabwe, Alliance Française Visit www.afzim.org/bulawayo Lusaka on your way to the Zambezi 29

RECREATION Challenging bikers amid scenic splendour The Kasanka Challenge calls mountain bike enthusiasts to a race through a scenic national park in Zambia. By ZT Correspondent the Kasanka Trust Ltd which The main event was won manages the park. Kasanka is by Ryan Ellis in a blister- he second Kasanka the first and longest running ing time of just over two Challenge mountain private partnership park in hours which completely Tbike race takes place Zambia. blew away the competition this year in the beauti- The park is famed for the and landed him a weekend ful environs of Kasanka largest mammal migration in at Robin Pope Safaris in National Park. This the world - with over 8 million South Luangwa. race traverses Miombo fruit bats roosting during the A local Njinga race of 12 woodland, wetlands, last three months of the year. km is also part of the cycle- rivers and villages where It is also home to numerous themed weekend, to give waving crowds cheer on the competitors. large mammals including the local cyclists the opportu- elusive sitatunga and more nity to show off their cycling The event takes advan- than 460 bird species. prowess. Last year this tage of the increased The inaugural Challenge race was won by Greward popularity of mountain Chalwe who took home a biking to build awareness took place in May 2011 and new Zambike as first prize. of the conservation needs attracted a field of 22 riders of the park and of neigh- who competed in two cat- Kasanka is easily accessi- bouring communities. All egories of 56 km and 22 km. ble on tar road from Lusaka, proceeds are ploughed back A short kiddie’s ride was also and offers accommodation PHOTO: JOYCE BENADIE into conservation through catered for. Race winner, Ryan Ellis enjoying the Kasanka Challenge in chalets as well as camping.

TOURISM How long do you want your Whether access is by air or How much luggage is safari for? road. allowed? Tips on booking your safari Advise your interests – are What is game viewing like What will the weather be you keen on birding or pho- at the time of year you will be like? If it is during the rainy Helpful suggestions for anyone planning a safari. tography? travelling? season does it rain all day? How do transfers work and TV and game viewing from Let them know if it is your Advise any special dietary What do the temperatures By Daphne Lindsay the time taken. closed vehicles. first safari or where else you requirements. get up to? If flying do you need to pay Some tips on how to book have travelled. Do you have any physical o my mind a small airport departure taxes? Is your passport valid for your safari:- challenges, for example need- exclusive safari is one of What type of accom- travel? ing a wheelchair or having Is it a malaria area? Seek the best holidays in the Book through a reputa- modation do you like T difficulty with steps. professional advice on malaria What vaccinations do you world. But what might be to ble and knowledgeable tour – air-conditioned comfort or prophylaxis. need? my liking might not appeal to operator or travel agent, or if a tented camp? Location, location, location! someone else. Over the years I you know where you want to Do you feel safer in bigger Where the property is situ- have met all different types on go, book direct. hotels or lodges? ated, for example inside or KASANKA MTB CHALLENGE safari; those like me who are Don’t be scared to ask ques- Do you want budget or outside the park. addicted and can’t get enough, tions. 26 May 2012 to those who fancied the idea luxury accommodation? What are you likely to see. Give as much information 56km Challenge but what they are experienc- about your preferences as pos- Are you relaxed about wild The distance to game areas or 22km Chase 3km Children’s Race ing is not really what they sible. There’s nothing worse animals walking freely around other attractions. wanted. than being sent somewhere the camp? Does the property have Accommodation and Opening Hours meals available at I have been called in the that doesn’t suit you. Are visas required? internet or TV? Mon - Fri Kasanka National Park. middle of the night by a hys- 12:00 - 22:00 terical client who was having Sunday A fun weekend for the Daphne Lindsay was born and brought up on a farm in Zimbabwe. Has entire family. a fit because there were ele- 12:00 - 17:00 been running her own safari tour operating business for the past 20 years. A 26 Chaholi Rd K 012 phant outside her chalet and N E 2 Due to her love of the African Bush she has travelled Africa extensively. She NG Rhodes Park ALE she was convinced every wild now lives in Zambia with her husband Ian where Daphne a runs her own S AL A CH animal would eat her. She was Lusaka, Zambia K TB Tour Operating business Zamag Tours & Safaris. Not only do they tailor- Tel: 0026 0211 253639 M definitely better suited to a make personalised safaris throughout Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana 0026 0977 856040 For more info: package holiday staying in but they specialise in Agricultural Tours. Daphne’s passion is horse safaris E-mail: [email protected] www.kasanka.com hotels with air-conditioning, and annually guides a groups to different destination each year. www.gerritz-restaurant.com or [email protected]

www.zamagsafaris.com we take you places +260 977 618 194 [email protected] we know and trust Luangwa 30 on your way to the Zambezi

CONSERVATION CONSERVATION Dealing with snaring The Chichele pride Elephants are particularly By ZT Correspondent susceptible to snaring as they are often attracted to farming he Chichele Presi- areas around protected areas dential Lodge in such as the Game Manage- TSouth Luangwa ment Areas which surround National Park is one of the the parks. While lions and many safari lodges whose guides assist the Zambia wild dogs are not target spe- Lion Project with details cies, their tendency to frequent of their lion sightings areas with high prey density, and photographs. where snaring is likely to be The lodge was originally more prevalent, also makes built in 1972 as a private them extremely susceptible. presidential retreat for Kenneth Kaunda. We look In order to combat snaring at the recent history of the Chichele lions PHOTO: Chichele in the South Luangwa, the Chichele lion pride, with South Luangwa Conserva- information built up over In 2007 the alpha female In 2010 the young male, tion Society supports village years of daily observation. became pregnant again and coming into maturity, scouts who conduct regular In 2000 the Chichele gave birth to two more cubs, decided it was time to leave : SCLS : anti-snaring patrols. The Soci- pride consisted of fourteen one female and one male. his maternal pride and suc- lions which ruled the land P hoto cessfully challenged an older ety also responds to reports of Sadly, the female cub did not surrounding Chichele Hill male from a neighbouring ‘SLCS wildlife rescue team immobilizes and treats a snared giraffe with the snared animals and will immo- and the Presidential Lodge. survive. pride. This displaced male help of Flatdogs Camp, Mfuwe’ bilize and treat any casualties. However in 2004 thir- Tragedy struck again in in turn found refuge with From 2006 - 2011 SLCS teen of the lions migrated 2009 when the pride was hunt- the Chichele pride. He has to set and conceal and wire is to the western area of the now become the alpha male, By Rachel McRobb has detected over 50 ele- ing a herd of buffalo. During readily available. South Luangwa National but reaching almost 12 years phants and 15 lions with wire Park, leaving behind only the hunt the alpha female was With the human population snares. Every pack of wild old is considered ‘Madala’ outh Luangwa Con- one female. attacked by one of the buffalo in Africa predicted to double dogs recorded also had an (Nyanja for ‘old man’). servation Society has As it happened this and suffered a broken back. by 2050 (UN-ESA 2008), sus- Only time will tell how an active programme to individual with a snare, while female was pregnant at the Hunting large prey has its dan- S tainable protein resources will numerous giraffe, hyaena long he can hold sway lift snares and treat wildlife time and she gave birth to gers and a determined attack be increasingly strained, esca- and antelope have also been two females and one male over the land surrounding injured by snares in its prime from an adult buffalo, or back- Chichele Hill. lating the harvest of the illegal reported injured. Luckily all cub, which she success- big game country. bush meat trade. Where meat ward kick from a zebra, can be these animals were identi- fully reared to form the new Illegal snaring for bush meat poaching occurs, wire snaring Chichele pride. fatal, as in this case. Visit www.santuaryretreats.com is widespread in Zambia and is likely to be the most popu- fied, immobilized and treated represents a major threat to lar method. However, due to and the vast majority made a important target and non- their non-selective nature, full recovery. “To study cats that are rarely target species such as giraffe, snares inflict severe injuries on RESEARCH elephant, lion and the Afri- wildlife, normally resulting in Visit www.slcszambia.org; seen, you need to get creative,” can wild dog. Snares are easy a long, painful death. Email: [email protected] High-tech tracks says White who, in addition to DNA work, uses playback equipment such as the bawl- Luangwa lions P roject ing buffalo calf to detect the L ion By ZT Correspondent presence of lions as well as ambia

: Z : to attract them for sampling. ince 2003, Dr Paula Spoor counts and interviews White has been study- P hoto with professional hunters and Sing wild carnivores in Dr. Paula White, Zambia Lion Pro- photographic guides provide Zambia. What began as an ject using high tech Biopsy darting seasonal account data, which investigation of secretive, methods. nocturnal genets in North over the course of multiple Luangwa, quickly grew into a years can be used to establish Dr White’s Zambia Lion country-wide project on what population trends. may be the most iconic of all Project operates primarily species, the African lion. outside of the parks, seeking Most recently, White has the more elusive (and less- been using GPS radio-collars studied) lions that reside in (equipped with automatic the surrounding game man- drop-off mechanisms) as a agement areas. comparative method to docu- Luxury, naturally Biopsy darts are one of ment lion movements, range the high-tech approaches and habitat use. that White has been using, White cites the crucial role Lodges and safari camps, immersed in their allowing her to sample indi- natural landscapes vidual lions without the need that safari-hunting operators to drug or handle them. The play in protecting the game high-quality DNA contained management areas which within the tiny snip allows serve as buffer zones around White to learn more about national parks, and much the valley’s lion populations, of her work is dedicated to including elusive individuals developing and promoting seldom seen by the public. sustainable hunting. Towards DNA analyses are being this end, White is working used to estimate the number closely with Zambia Wildlife of lions in the Luangwa Valley Authority and the hunting fra- Extraordinary safari camps and lodge s ecosystem, measure their ternity to develop mandatory

Zambia: Sanctuary Chichele Presidential Lodge, Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp, genetic biodiversity to assess sampling, and the adoption Sanctuary Zebra Plains, Sanctuary Sussi & Chu ma the level of inbreeding, exam- of an age-based trophy selec- ine the distance and direction www.sanctuaryretreats.com / [email protected] 0211 253 719 tion program similar to that of dispersing individuals, as in Tanzania. well as conduct paternity tests of adult males. [email protected] Zambezi News livingstone

TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River 31

PLANT ENCOUNTERS

1 Frangipani 2 Madagascar periwinkle 3 Poison-rope fruits 4 Kombe seeds on vine Dogbane drugs 5 Reduced carbon Kombe seeds in hand

2 3 4

the heart rate, yet increase the force and efficiency of its contractions. During heart surgery, strophanthin can be administered to stop the heart temporarily. The seeds (Pic4) are 5 dispersed in a mass of fluff from paired, pod-like fruits (Pic5) that split open when 1 the Zambezi. It has milky dry, but for pharmaceutical sap, opposite leaves, and vel- production they are har- as a substitute for insulin. Hodgkin’s lymphoma, has means “away from dogs”. vety fruits in paired, slender By Evelyn Roe vested while still in the fruit. The discovery in Jamaica of a also been achieved after This refers to the use of follicles. Traditional herbal- “periwinkle tea” with anti- chemotherapy with the natu- some species as dog poison. ists make many uses of this It’s not advisable to ingest he pink or white diabetic properties led to rally-occurring alkaloids. The family also incorporates plant, including treating “fits”. any material (or to inhale flowers of the Mada- further Canadian and Pharmacological research smoke from burning wood Traditional herbalists use the milkweeds, which were gascar periwinkle American research in the has discovered that extracts or leaves) from the dogbane T extracts of Madagascar peri- previously classified as the do control convulsions (Pic2) brighten up many 1950s and the development Asclepiadaceae, named after family, unless adminis- gardens, but few people of drug treatments for cancer. winkle to treat high blood and epilepsy. tered by a qualified medical pressure, diabetes, bacillary Asclepius, the Greek god appreciate what a gift this Kombe tail-flower, Stro- practitioner. This caution Extracts of the whole plant dysentery, rheumatic pains, of healing. species is to the world phanthus kombe, can be found includes ornamentals such have yielded more than 70 dif- and abnormally heavy and Here are two examples of of medicine. ferent alkaloids of medicinal overhanging the path by the as frangipani (Plumeria painful menstruation. indigenous medicinal plants Medical researchers use. Two of them, vincristine Victoria Falls in Zambia’s species) (Pic1) and oleander in the dogbane family, from became interested in the and vinblastine, have raised Its scientific name is Mosi-oa-Tunya National (Nerium oleander). the Livingstone area: plant during World War the survival rate in childhood Catharanthus roseus, formerly Park. Its tiny seeds are used Evelyn Roe; Botanical Two, when Canadian leukaemia from less than 10% Vinca rosea. It belongs to the Poison-rope, Tacazzea api- to make drugs for heart Researcher with North-West soldiers stationed in the to over 90%. Remission of dogbane family, the Apoc- culata, (Pic3) is a common conditions. They contain Naturalists’ Society of Zambia; Philippines used the leaves other forms of cancer, such as ynaceae, a Greek word that vine in woodland fringing compounds that slow down [email protected]

INDULGENT WITHOUT RESTRAINT. EXPLORE ZAMBEZI’S WONDER.

www.suninternational.com 32 Travellers Friend zambezi livingstone Zambezi Traveller

CONSERVATION Lion captured near Livingstone

By Peter Roberts animals were missing and In an area with virtually zero to offer assistance to local natural prey species to support wildlife officials. lions, the Zambia Wildlife esidents of the wider Zambia Wildlife Authority Authority, with the support Livingstone area were area warden Rodgers Nkhoma of wildlife vet Dr Ian Parsons, on alert in January R confirmed that the author- and help from staff of the two when a wild lion was reported ity started tracking the lion local captive lion operations, in the area, the first for over immediately after it was first decided to capture the lion thirty years. It was initially reported in the area on 22 Jan- to prevent any further loss of feared that the animal had uary, and that the animal had escaped from one of the two killed three cattle in Songwe livestock. Often the last resort captive lion tourist interac- village area. He added that with lions which become live- tion operations which operate there was provision in the law stock raiders is to shoot them locally, who were quick to for compensating the owners as problem animals. PHOTO: MUKUNI BIG 5 Left to right are; Cliff Welch (Mukuni Big 5); Dr, Ian Parsons; Ian Ngwenya confirm that none of their of the cattle for their losses. The capture was successfully (MB5); ZAWA Scout Zimba; Richard Leach (Lion Encounter & ALERT). The first wild lion to undertaken on 26 January, when the lion was darted and that hidden underneath his conservation feature on be recorded in the dark shaggy mane was a GPS front cover and page 16 drugged and transported to on the work of Hwange’s Livingstone area had research collar. a secure captive facility near lion researchers. Dambwa. Questions over For more on this amaz- his own story to tell ing lion and his travels see MORE ONLINE View more images of the his origins took a surprising lion’s journey in the Livingstone sec- – in scientific detail turn when it was discovered our cover story and special tion of www.zambezitraveller.com

ENVIRONMENT Climate ambassadors clean up

By Clare Mateke The programme is called Unite for Climate and is being facilitated in Zambia nite for Climate, a programme coordi- on behalf of UNICEF by the nated by UNICEF, Wildlife and Environmen- U PHOTO: CLARE MATEKE came to Livingstone, Zambia, tal Conservation Society of Students from the community schools drumming this year with twenty child cli- Zambia. This year’s event was mate ambassadors from local combined with a visit to Liv- of the Wildlife and Environ- path to the Boiling Pot, while schools who lead a tree-plant- mental Conservation Society the third group took the pho- ing and litter collection effort, ingstone by a UNICEF team from Ireland, including crew of Zambia, and representatives tographic trail which leads facilitated by the Wildlife and from related organisations, in round towards the bridge and Environmental Conservation members from Aer Lingus, a tree planting ceremony at gives an overview of the Falls. Society of Zambia. Ireland’s national airline, who Livingstone Hospital. A Lots of litter was collected and have been helping raise funds Twenty child climate total of 15 trees were planted much fun was had by all. ambassadors from schools in for UNICEF. Livingstone helped clean up near the children’s wing of The ambassadors hope to litter around the Victoria Falls The day’s programme the hospital. make this a regular event to in January. This was part of an began with a courtesy call on The party then proceeded try and keep Livingstone and ongoing project funded by the Mayor of Livingstone, to the Victoria Falls, where the Victoria Falls clean. They UNICEF, in which children after which the Mayor and they split into three groups. also hope to carry out tree are being trained as climate the Permanent Secretary for ambassadors to carry out One group collected litter planting programmes, school projects to improve the envi- Southern Province led the from Victoria Falls bridge debates, and environmental ronment and help mitigate climate ambassadors, the to the Zambian border post, awareness campaigns on radio climate change. visiting Irish team, members another group went down the and television. Zambezi Traveller zambezi livingstone Travellers Friend 33

BIRDING Counting the Zambezi River’s water birds Birds dependent on wetland habitats can of the bulrushes but venturing provide a good indicator of the health of the more and more out into the environment as well as having their own intrin- open. In addition, the sewage sic importance. This report covers the first of the ponds yielded a number of biannual water bird counts in the 17th year that waders including wood sand- the survey has been taken in the Livingstone area. piper, ruff, common sandpiper and three-banded plover. The purpose of the count is By Clare Mateke The sewage ponds provide Livingstone Museum to keep track of the status of bird life in the area, as well as an ever-changing and diverse providing an assessment of habitat for birds and we once very January and July the state of the wetlands, as Clare Mateke, Terry Nyambe, Joreck Chishika, Kawana Munalula, Sydney Photo: Avi Sabag counted over 1,000 birds for the past 17 years the the number and diversity of Munakabayo, Todd Johnson there. Unfortunately, illegal Livingstone Museum E bird species gives an indica- settlements have been mush- has counted the water birds staff were joined by volunteers snipe recorded at the sewage A record number of 27 long- tion of the changing state of along the Zambezi River. A who love to spend a day in the ponds for the first time in toed lapwings were seen at rooming around its borders the wetland. team of researchers and vol- bush counting birds; it is always seven years, a slaty egret, only the sewage ponds – the high- posing an ever-greater threat more fun with more people. A recorded three times before and unteers walks along the river This is only one part of a est number so far recorded. to the bird life. There has been continent-wide census of total of 748 birds were counted, a black-crowned night heron, bank from the Victoria Falls This species was first recorded a proposal to turn the ponds to the end of Mosi-o-Tunya water birds, carried out by vol- from 40 different species. This previously recorded only twice. into a mini bird sanctuary and unteers across Africa. Last year was well over the average in 2008 at this location and National Park, identifying We deliberately sought out placing a full time bird guide ten wetland areas in Zambia number – perhaps because appears to have been increas- and counting every water the hard-to-see rock pratincole there, who, apart from guiding bird in sight. A second count were included resulting in we had more than the usual ing in number ever since, along out on the rocks in the Zambezi tourists and other keen birders, is made at the Livingstone a total count of over 28,000 number of good bird spotters? River – and found them. These with the water hyacinth plant could teach the children who sewage ponds; the whole pro- water birds. This was the Abundant species included birds head north as soon as the that seems to make up an widest coverage of the country live nearby, to enjoy the beauty cess takes four days. reed cormorant, cattle egret, river starts to rise and covers important part of its habitat. in the past decade. and diversity of birds, gradu- Birds included in the count openbill stork, sacred ibis and the rocks that they like to sit Purple gallinules are also ally discouraging the use of are those that are dependent This year the Museum and African jacana. Interesting on; we were lucky to find them on wetlands for their survival. Zambia Wildlife Authority sightings were two painted still around. multiplying, enjoying the cover catapults. Ideas are welcome!

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+260 (0)3 327271 / 323141 [email protected] www.africanview.it 34 Travellers Friend zambezi livingstone Zambezi Traveller

ART & CRAFT Rhythms of changing times Changing Times” is the theme What happened to the The basic fact and for my April exhibition. miombo pied barbet which principal of respect for life seems to be ignored as It is important for every two years back was easily deforestation, poaching, greed person who is conscious of our seen just beyond the Living- selfishness, corruption and environment to sometimes stone town’s northern weigh bridge? One solution to this crime, escalate. I try to address pause and consider how fairly and point to these issues. My problem would be the passing we treat other forms of life. works, mostly characterized and implementation of a bylaw Human existence depends by human faces and figures, on what we do to anything restricting unnecessary cutting may be viewed and read like living. We don’t need more of trees on newly allocated a newspaper and displayed as unanswered questions plots. Building plans must fit historical fact. about disappearing wildlife in with the environment and and forests. not vice versa. Contact : [email protected]

Chiinga Siavwapa In his own words, painter CHARITY Events

and wilderness guide Artists exhibit for a worthy cause March, April, May Chiinga Siavwapa Art Exhibition 09hrs -16.30hrs L/Stone Museum Rhythms of Changing Times 3 “He stands impotent on the threshold explains his current between life and death, beckoning her to bareness as they together step on Clare Mateke toes of dancing trees.” exhibition in Livingstone, e-mail: c. [email protected] 31st March the use of media but based By Chiinga Siavwapa Car Boot Sale & Easter Fair on issues currently affecting there lies a thin line between Protea Hotel us. Recently my comments our environment and art. Tanya + 260 213324630 have always thought art has and expressions have been Unfortunately in most cases, Wednesdays a far more important role on environment and political nature is mismanaged by Touch Rugby Ito play in contemporary developments. humans through political 17.30hrs , L/Stone Golf Club PHOTO: CLARE MATEKE times than just the general As a nature guide for walk- systems. Political influences Exhibited paintings at the exhibition J.T. Cell + 260 (0) 974269646 perception of it as decorative ing safaris, I see nature as art are in themselves not bad if Fridays the exhibition was initiated or entertaining. My painting and art in nature. Nature is my intentions and implementa- By ZT correspondent Cake Sale within the context of museum styles and subjects therefore inspiration mentally, physi- tions are for a better future 11.00hrs - 13.00hrs outreach to the community. change not necessarily in cally and spiritually. To me, for all. Hence “Rhythms of Acacia School, A diverse exhibition of visual This comes after the ‘Art Live Sonja + 260 (0) 977126526 artworks in Livingstone aims to On’ exhibition in Lusaka, spon- raise funds for needy children sored by the Lechwe Trust, with Tuesdays & Thursdays of deceased artists. proceeds given to families of Yoga classes departed visual artists. Tuesdays & Thursdays 8.30 - PHDS 24490/11 The Livingstone Museum, 9.30 hrs , Livingstone Golf Club. in collaboration with the A wide cross section of art- Bev + 260 (0) 979959981 Zambia National Visual Arts ists, male and female, young Council, is hosting an exhibi- and old, have work on show Fridays tion of paintings and prints producing a uniquely diverse Rotary Club of L/Stone meet with works carefully selected exhibition. Works include sam- 13.00hrs - 14.00hrs, Livingstone Golf Club. from Visual Arts Council mem- ples from the studios of Poto Sue + 260 (0) 965888810 ITS THE bers in Kafue, Mazabuka, Kabwe and Chansa Chishimba Monze, Choma and Living- both of whom have been 8th April SEASON stone districts. The council is exhibiting since 1979. Clare Easter Sunday Buffet Lunch a non-governmental, non- Mateke is known for her keen 13.00hrs - 15.00hr, profit organisation formed in interest in wild animals and Protea Hotel TO GET October 1989 with the aim of landscapes, while Alumedi Phone + 260 213324630 fostering the development of Maonde, Suse Kasokota and Late March/early April AWAY visual art in Zambia and uplift- Chiinga Siavwapa are eclectic Kuomboka Ceremony Western ing the standard of living of modern artists who have dis- Province its members. tinguished themselves with Zambia National Tourist Board Proceeds from the sale of art individual techniques. ZNTB + 260 (0) 9778977770 *US$78 will raise funds for orphans of The Livingstone exhibition May PER PERSON deceased visual artists. Fol- is accommodated in the Master Chef Braai Family Fun SHARING lowing much discussion of the museum courtyard and runs Acacia School PER NIGHT predicament of these children, from January to March. Phone: 260 213327957

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Community Sun International impresses UNDP representative By ZT correspondent ing about the success stories that are being told by Sun Myths & Legends International Zambia and the un International beneficiaries from its com- The myth of the African thief ant Zambia conducted its munity initiatives. Fee was (Carebara vidua) are the most Sfirst harvest of compost impressed by the scope of amazing of the flying ants. They from their in-house worm these projects and the impact are black to reddish brown in colour with swollen abdomens. farm and used this important the company is making on the phase in their project to train lives of the community. These queens are commonly 18 members of their com- called ‘fulufute’ or ‘matingatila’ Fee was in Livingstone in Nyanja and Tonga respec- munity in vermiculture. This tively. The queen is eaten as a activity marks yet another to undertake a study of the delicacy by many people living important phase in the work developments taking place in along the Zambezi River, espe- the region and to meet with By Todd Johnson, cially in the middle and lower of the worm farm. Zambezi valleys. Community training PHOTO: SUN INTERNATIONAL various stakeholders. Curator of Entomology, The worm farm uses earth- Department of Natural History, In the past, scientists have worms to process and manage Sun International Zambia (UNDP) was recently at the MORE ONLINE Livingstone Museum. given conflicting reports on the establishment of a new organic kitchen waste by supports. Resort where she undertook nest by virgin queens leaving Ceremony launches The African thief ant has been feeding on it to produce The Programme Analyst a tour of Sun International the parent colony. Accord- organic fertilizer that comes Zambia’s community pro- cleared of the allegations ing to one veteran expert, the Governance, Ms Bairbre Fee, fish restocking of theft, by the Curator of in liquid and solid (compost) virgin queen when leaving the from the United Nations jects that are situated on- site. A total of 50, 000 three spot Entomology in the Depart- mother colony steals some of forms, good for the hotel and More and more guests are and red breasted tilapia ment of Natural History, at the workers, who are actually community gardens that Development Programme showing an interest in learn- fingerlings have been Livingstone Museum. her sisters, to help her with released into the river around During the rainy season rearing of her first brood of eggs and larvae. The author in Mwandi under the first fish we expect to see all sorts of this case thought the young Community restocking programme. insects from grasshoppers, queen needed the workers crickets and beetles to ants. because she would be unable Livingstone receives Ants are undoubtedly the to feed her young with her large Facing the most successful and ecologi- mouth parts. donated books cally dominant group of social insects in the world. They Another ant taxonomist found challenge Educational institutions make up 15–20% of the animal the African thief ant nesting in around Livingstone will ben- biomass (dry weight) in termite mounds and believed efit from a donation of some tropical rainforests. that the tiny workers construct of deafness channels through which they 22,000 books and ten desk- Most of us have surely seen creep into the termite cham- top computers. The books flying ants which are not ter- By Dianah Genada bers to steal termite eggs and are surplus resource materi- mites during the rainy season. their young for food. This ant als from institutions in the From my perspective, the got its name from one of these ne success story United States. African thief ant queens fairy tales from Livingstone of an individual chal- O Ricky and his family Photo: Dianah Genada lenged by deafness, Ricky Mapetapeta, who neverthe- less today makes a living for With determination, example of how individuals his family, through his own Mapetapeta overcame his dis- can meet these challenges, hard work, perseverance and ability. He was blessed with in coordination with the some good fortune. friends who were willing to Livingstone Fundamental share their practical skills and Baptist Church Lead- At five years old Ricky he gained hands-on training in ers of the deaf community Mapetapeta was stricken carpentry. Today, Mapetapeta have developed plans to with malaria and became is able to make a living for his build a school in Dambwa deaf as a result. As he grew family selling furniture to any- Central to teach deaf stu- up, the greatest challenge body ready with an order. One dents and create skills for he faced was getting people job opportunities. to communicate with him day he hopes to own a small Currently, Livingstone and to understand what he furniture shop to improve the lives of his family. Fundamental Baptist was saying. Church helps the deaf by The public generally do The Deaf Baptist Church organizing social events not know sign language and which meets at Holy Cross such as conferences, lunch- with no specialised schools Basic School every Sunday eons and other activities to in Livingstone to teach the has recognised the challenges develop self esteem and let language of the deaf, Mapeta- faced by the deaf members the deaf know that they have peta found employment of Livingstone community. a part in society and a place opportunities were limited. Taking Mapetapeta as an where they belong. 36 Travellers Friend zambezi livingstone Zambezi Traveller

ENVIRONMENT Problem – paper waste. Solution – read on! Advantages So the question was how to production process that can tight seal to prevent contami- rid the city of this paper waste nation of underground water. The coffins are fully biode- be replicated and sold to cities cleanly and also put it to some gradable. throughout Africa. The end product is one third commercial use that would the price of pressed wood and Every three coffins pro- The coffins are painted justify the cost of collecting thus more affordable for low- duced saves one tree. and compressing it. inside with a biodegrad- budget families to bury their The community can clean Coffins! There is a great able latex that gives a water loved ones with dignity. up the streets by selling their need for inexpensive coffins waste paper. in Africa. Would there be a Reduced carbon dioxide way to make coffins out of emission by burning less this paper waste? After many paper. protypes and design changes, Bury them with DIGNITY! PHOTO: ABC COFFINS Making final touches to the coffins I came up with the process which would solve the prob- lem. It is a papier-mache type By Ferdie Barnard Two years ago Livingstone with a hydraulic press which City Council asked me to would be costly. This got product that can be moulded into the form of a coffin that is build a trailer for their trac- me thinking. ntroducing an environ- tor to collect and compress strong enough to support the mentally friendly coffin paper waste that was gener- Recycling paper is a great necessary weight. Imade from compressed ated within the city. It was to idea but the cost of transport- It is strong, biodegradable, paper waste which will both be pulled from point to point ing it is high. Not only that, the lightweight and cost effective where waste would be col- Environmentaly Friendly! help clean up cities and cost town of Livingstone produces - and it is exclusively manufac- less than a conventional wood lected, compressed and then Contact FERDI about one tonne of paper trash tured using waste paper trash coffin – and save a few trees. delivered to the city dump that is thrown away every day. +260213322996 - office daily. When it is burnt all that This is a must-read story for where it would be burned. With mould improvements +260979311538 - cell anyone concerned about pol- I realised they were asking paper goes up in the form of a and better machinery, we [email protected] lution and people. me to manufacture a trailer pollutant, carbon dioxide gas. now have a state-of-the-art

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Livingstone Backpackers : Budget accommoda- Victoria Apartments - Livingstone Fallstech: We specialize in artwork and painting of Chapa Classic Lodge & Tours With air-condi- Modern self-catering units with 2 en-suite Bennett Engineering. Professional engine T-Shirts, letter heads, business cards, invoice books. tioned en-suite accommodation, fridges, coffee tion in dormitory- style chalets or camping. Facilities include sandy poolside bar, Jacuzzi, braai area & self- bedrooms, fully equipped kitchens, DSTV, Wifi, assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Designing and mounting billboards. Opposite making facilities, swimming pool, restaurant, catering kitchen. Next to The Red Cross, Mokambo secure parking and garden. Skimming of cyclinder heads. Reborring/ skimming Mukuni Park. Phone: + 260 (0) 976403088 Email: [email protected] activity bookings, airport transfers. Located close Road, Livingstone. Phone : + 260 213 324730 US116 per suite per night – conditions apply. engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector to town centre. Phone : + 260 (0)977796710, Email: [email protected] Next to Protea Hotel, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic. + 260 213 322065 Phone Mark + 260 (0) 973313644 Chanters Lodge: Stay at Chanters Lodge in Living- Import spares from South Africa Florist stone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, E-mail : [email protected] Green Tree Lodge : Air-conditioned en-suite [email protected] comfortable reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu www.chapaclassiclodge.com chalets. Resident bar, restaurant, DSTV, wireless Mosi-os-Tunya Road, opposite Falls Park Shoppers Florist: Cut flowers, corsages/bridal Crescent, off Obote Avenue internet, swimming pool, secure parking. Contact Activities Contact : + 260 213 321611 bouquets/wedding decorations, vase arrange- Phone: + 260 213 323412 Fawlty Towers: Private en-suite rooms & dormi- Andrew & Victoria. Phone: + 260 213 322631 Mobile : +260 (0) 978308936 ments, ornamental gifts, table arrangements, Email : [email protected] tory accommodation set in a large garden with Mobile: + 260 (0)977630159 wreaths. Call : + 260 213 324086 E-mail:[email protected] Bike-Hire : Zambike Amaka Sana x with Shimano Mobile: + 260 (0)977498733 http://www.chanters-livingstone.com swimming pool, braai area. Sauna & beauty salon. Torque @ US15 per person per day Books & Stationery John Hunt Way behind Autoworld twitter/@livilodge Free Airport pick-ups. www.greentreelodgezambia.com Phone + 260 (0) 977545754 Opposite Shoprite, Mosi-oa-Tunya Square. WALK WITH THE RHINO on a 3 hour ‘walking Bookworld Livingstone Selling a good selection Fuel Station safari’ in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Inclusive of children’s, professional, reference & educational pick-up and drop-off, park fees, professional guide, books.All at affordable prices. Stationery items also Engen: Falls Park towards Victoria Falls. 24 hr fuel, game scout , light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold convenient store. Phone:+260 213 322584 Ngolide Lodge Well equipped air-conditioned available Contact us : + 260 213 32141 E-mail : [email protected] rooms. Two night packages. Continental/Indian water/soft drinks. Restaurant operating as The Golden Leaf Restaurant. ‘ TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE ‘LIVINGSTONE Butchery Mosi-oa –Tunya Road SAFARIS. Tel : + 260 213 322267 Logistics & Supply Lodge :+ 260 213 321091/2 Cell : + 260 (0) 977450716 [email protected] Restaurant : + 260 213 321266 Fallsmeat Ltd: Top quality meat, biltong and Transport and Supply of 30 tonne loads from E-mail :[email protected] Airline & Bus Tickets boerwors and many other products Johannesburg, Harare, Bulawayo to Victoria Falls, www.ngolidelodge.com Kasane, Livingstone and Lusaka. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone Town Centre Bricks, cement, quarrystone, thatch grass, timber. Southend Travel: IATA Member Livingstone. Phone + 260 (0) 979497181 Contact: +263 772 144996 or +263 9 232376 Pumulani Livingstone: Affordable, charm- Airline reservations and ticketing on domestic, ing town lodge offering spacious air-conditioned regional & international flights. Free quotation en-site rooms, Activities desk, bar & grill, WiFi, trans- Ticketing and reservations for Intercape Bus for Charity Restaurants fers, secure parking, laundrey services routes to Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho Border, Phone : + 260 213 320981 Mozambique. Every Friday the Rotary Club of Livingstone meet at Laughing Chinese Restaurant: Superb Mobile: + 260 (0)97182027 Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone town centre Sichuan Cuisine, take-aways & restaurant Email: [email protected] Phone : +260 213 320241/320773/322128 the Royal Livingstone Golf & Country Club. 13.00hrs Self-contained local accommodation. John Hunt www.pumulanizambia.com Skype : southend.travel [email protected] – 14.00hrs Contact Sue + 260 (0)965888810 Way behind Post Office. Phone : + 260 213 322555

Daily Routes Daily Departure Times Travel and Booking Enquiries Lusaka Livingstone travel in Style! Livingstone Mazhandu Family Bus Services Ltd 1st Bus 06:30Hrs 1st Bus 06:00Hrs with Mazhandu Family Buses Sesheke 2nd Bus 07:30Hrs 2nd Bus 07:00Hrs Getting to your business and leisure desitination has Kazungula +260 977 805064 (Hotline) 3rd Bus 09:00Hrs 3rd Bus 09:00Hrs Choma +260 975 805064 (Livingstone) 4th Bus 11:30Hrs 4th Bus 10:30Hrs at special fares. Travel with us and enjoy our fantastic Monze Email: [email protected] onboard customer services throughout your journey. Ndola 5th Bus 13:30Hrs 5th Bus 13:30Hrs www.mazhandu.com Kitwe 6th Bus 19:30Hrs 6th Bus 20:00Hrs Zambezi News kariba & middle-zam

TRAVELLERS FRIEND » A definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi River 37

WILDLIFE Cheetah do well outside parks The first in a series of lectures on the large carnivores, Dr Netty Purchase spoke on the fact that the future of cheetah lies outside of captive breeding centres and also out- side of protected areas – on land where prey exists and the people are tolerant

By ZT correspondent with few lion and hyaena, but these areas tend to be where humans live, who can provide he inaugural lecture another threat. in The Song of the Until recently it was argued Carnivores series was T that the cheetah was geneti- given by Dr Netty Purchase cally doomed – that it had gone in Bulawayo in January. Dr through a genetic bottleneck Purchase’s talk was titled a millennium ago, resulting in ‘The Cheetahs; are they really low genetic diversity. This led genetically doomed?’ to the belief that only captive Although closely related to breeding, carefully select- the lion, the tiger, the leopard ing individuals for maximum and the jaguar, the cheetah is diversity, would safeguard a unique species in a unique the species. genus. A flexible spine, long More recent evidence tail that acts as a rudder, large proves that the cheetah is no heart and long legs all work less diverse than most large together to allow the cheetah carnivores. Being at the top of Cheetah cubs Inset- Cheetah at sunset to reach high speeds; 104 kms the food chain, cheetah exist in per hour has been recorded. low numbers and hence have It is a sad fact that cheetah relatively low genetic diver- Being at the top of the Once it catches up with its are prized in some parts of sity. However, recent studies prey, generally antelope, the the world as pets, and ani- food chain, cheetah ex- have indicated that there are prey is tripped and then held mals from captive centres are at least four separate groups ist in low numbers and and suffocated. Although highly sought after. The more of cheetah – the Asian, North cheetahs in captivity and the these high speeds can only be hence have relatively African, East African and more breeding centres, the maintained for short periods, Southern African. more difficult it is to police low genetic diversity the cheetah is a remarkably this trade in live animals, and PHOTOS: HUMPHREY GUMPO successful hunter. These groups are distinct enough to mean that move- because of the lucrative nature ing after the cheetah in the wild for generations to come. beautiful animal. The need, as Because of its body structure ment of animals between these of the trade, illegal trading wild it will survive well into Overcoming the threats of always, is for cooperation and the cheetah is not powerful areas could be detrimental. has grown. the future. By securing land habitat destruction, human compliance to what is known enough to protect its prey or Cheetahs also breed very well The conservation world is through increased tolerance conflict and a lack of political to be effective. its young in areas with lion and have high cub survival working to change this. The by human communities to the will is necessary if this amazing and hyaena, and losses can where there are no competi- value of captive centres is in The message that Dr Pur- presence of cheetah, and safe- species is to survive. be high. Consequently the tors, something that would giving people the opportu- chase wanted her audience to guarding its natural prey, the cheetah does well in areas not happen if they were inbred. nity to see and appreciate this take home was that by look- cheetah can continue to run Visit www.cheetahandwilddog.org MANA POOLS KARIBA MATOPOS HWANGE 38 Travellers Friend zambezi kariba & middle-zam Zambezi Traveller

education Rifa trains the rangers of the future Rifa conservation education camp on the banks tamarind and the Zambezi of the Zambezi runs a conservation education fig. Early on they swam to the island reed beds and often programme for schoolchildren of Parks staff, made the dangerous trip to with support from Safari Club International. Zambia for fresh food. Another ecosystem to ben- By Leslee Maasdorp re-building children and efit was Bream Pools, choked teachers’ appreciation for wild- for a decade by water hyacinth. life and conservation,” said a The floods cleared out this choolchildren from spokesperson. thick burden, allowing more Zimbabwe’s Parks birds to use the pools. Schools Sand Wildlife Author- Rifa education camp is run at last can see hippo coming up ity schools benefitted from by the Zimbabwe Hunters’ to breathe. They also shiver at conservation education Association. Both ZHA and the thought of the huge man- camps at Rifa in the Zambezi National Parks and Wildlife of-war with the armour-plated upper deck watching them Valley last year, sponsored consider these three weeks from under the water. by the Sacramento and devoted to local pupils to be Houston Chapters of Safari invaluable. “Through edu- Hyacinth is a tenacious alien and a working team has been Club International. cation and action an actual difference can be made to the Kids playing games on the new beach PHOTO: RIFA spraying the weed which is fast Well over 100 schoolchil- re-colonising the pools. well-being of the environment dren and 24 adult teacher in protected areas, and to the Four floodgates were opened those on a boat sent to look for trees put out new leaves and The Rifa staff watched / supervisors attended the that season in the Kariba dam it luckily spotted it drifting by countless sets of teeth and current poaching crisis,” said new landscapes appear as the camps in the perishing heat wall, causing havoc to the and fished it out of the water. lips plucked the grasses to water lever went down when the spokesperson. lawn height. of October and November. banks of the river downstream. Huge benefits were derived the gates were closed. Over- “We are all grateful for the Meanwhile, the Rifa ecosys- At Rifa camp near Chirundu from the flooding of the exten- This grazing was the only night muddy channels and support given by SCI over tem has seen massive changes the water pump in the Zam- sive dried-out channel systems fresh food in a very hot dry sands appeared, countless fish fingerlings dried out and over the years. This has enabled and many positive spin-offs bezi snapped from its wires. connected to the Zambezi. season enabling grazers from one hundred marabou storks the Rifa programme to start from the flooding one year ago. While it drifted downstream Soon grasses were sprouting, inland to survive. Only the ele- phants, half-starved anyway came to the feast. in September, were pressed Upstream a large new beach PROFILE for food and attacked the bark formed, ideal for school picnic not only of baobab, mopane days, so gone are the mud About Humphrey Gumpo and the albida trees but also fights at Hot Springs. ANTI-POACHING One is always learning photography but Humphrey Gumpo has grown into a specialist guide with a contagious passion for photography, and he loves sharing unique and remote Africa with Wounded Zebra is treated wildlife enthusiasts and future generations. By ZT correspondent

By ZT Correspondent friends, which his parents did not find amusing as these areas Kariba Animal Welfare Fund Trust took care of an injured were alive with potentially zebra recently. orn in the small dangerous wildlife species. A lone zebra with a wounded back leg was reported to Kariba lakeside town of This led Humphrey to follow Animal Welfare Fund Trust by residents of Kariba town. The male BKariba, Hum- a career in safari guiding, zebra was favouring the back left leg and lifting it continuously. phrey discovered his love pursuing both walking and On investigation it was decided to leave the animal to see if the for the bush and remote canoeing qualifications after small wound would heal without the trauma of darting and anti- areas at a young age. Sur- high school. biotics. However a week later the leg had become quite swollen rounded by wilderness and it was necessary to dart and administer antibiotics as well as Fortunate enough to expe- clean the wound. and water, buffalo, rhino, rience the most amazing and elephants and various National Parks was contacted and a scout collected. Andries educational natural interac- SAFARIS D E MA TAILOR PHOTO: Scholtz who was sponsored by KAWFT to obtain his darting antelope were part of the Humphrey is joined by two elephants at the camp tions in his day-to-day work licence undertook to do the darting and the operation was suc- scenery on his journeys to left Humphrey “no choice” cessfully completed. Humphrey has grown into school every morning. but to learn the art of photog- and remote Africa with specialist guide with a conta- wildlife enthusiasts and ‘Bachelor Boy’ was still able, with his swollen and sore back leg, raphy. “One is always learning Weekend outings gious passion for photography, future generations. to move distances from one end of town to the other. He is now included bush walks with photography,” he says, but and he loves sharing unique looking much better and was seen with a second zebra, perhaps no longer a bachelor! Zambezi Traveller zambezi kariba & middle-zam Travellers Friend 39

CONSERVATION AWARENESS Sponsorship of event for the International Can elephants fly? Anti-Poaching Foundation On 15 January, just over two months after his initial rescue, orphaned The illegal trafficking of wildlife is now the 3rd elephant calf Bezi was successfully relocated by air from Conservation largest illegal industry in the world. Lower Zambezi base camp to the Elephant Orphanage Project, Lusaka. 20 April @ Mystique Function Centre, Bulwayo national park. This is a huge Byline: By Sarah Davies By Steven Dean undertaking and support from local Zimbabwe donors wo months after his he International Anti is essential. rescue, orphaned ele- Poaching Foundation phant calf Bezi was T (IAPF) mission is to Kirsty Alexander from successfully relocated by air T Gardens & Events recently from Conservation Lower protect and preserve wildlife in volatile regions. approached the Founda- Zambezi base camp to the tion to hold a charity event Elephant Orphanage Project For more information on The IAPF is a fully regis- for the organisation and in in Lusaka. the IAPF head to www.iapf. tered charity in both Australia particular Chizarira In November 2011, Bezi and Zimbabwe. We are a org or alternatively to see was found without his mother 100% non-profit organiza- Whether it is equipment what is happening on a regu- at one of the lodges on the tion. All the proceeds made go to host the event, prizes for lar basis head to our blog at Zambian side of the middle auction through to a dona- Getting Bezi on the plane PHOTO: CLZ straight back into the founda- www.iapf.wordpress.com Zambezi, and rescued when he tion, which is distributed back tion your participation and fell into the swimming pool! At about four months old elephant carers employed by sponsorship in this event Kirsty Alexander +263773266997 and having been vaccinated, on the ground in Africa. He had been heard calling for CLZ from Chiawa village would be greatly appreciated. [email protected] his mother for 48 hours before Bezi was flown to Lusaka, have been employed by EOP The money is spent in vari- he was reported to CLZ. attended by Zambia Wild- on a full time basis. Ultimately ous ways. We equip, train and life Authority vet Dr Harvey Bezi was quarantined at it is intended that Bezi and deploy new and existing ranger Kamboyi, Rachel Murton and CLZ base camp for two his adopted family will move both in Zimbabwe and South Tanya Shober from the EOP. months while the authority to Kafue and be reintegrated Africa. Education within local At the Elephant Orphan- and means to move him was into the wild. age Project in Lusaka, Bezi schools is also a major priority arranged. Bezi was fed a com- became the youngest member Thanks to all at the EOP, of the foundation. It is impera- plex formula every two hours of the four-strong herd of tive for the future of wildlife. by a tireless team of volunteers, Royal Air Charters for trans- orphan elephant calves. his wounds were treated and porting Bezi to Lusaka free of Just recently we have been his temperature and behaviour Although still underweight charge; and all those who gen- asked to conduct a feasibil- recorded while his condition and vulnerable, he seems erously contributed to costs of ity study in preparation to gradually stabilised. happy and healthy. Two casual keeping Bezi at CLZ. rebuild and resurrect Chizarira

CONSERVATION

Within forty minutes of being sedated the elephant Jumbo’s valentines date was back on his feet with good prospects for a full young bull of about 20 By Sarah Davies recovery. years was located quickly CLZ will continue to and although still in good onservation Lower monitor the bull’s progress. condition, he was suffering Thanks to Dr.Kasmboyi Zambezi organ- severely from a wire snare for his expertise as well as ised the darting and C embedded in his front research assistant Daniel Extraordinary Africa treatment of an elephant right leg, and was unable to Mwizabi. Thanks also to injured by a snare. Royal Zambezi Lodge, an intimate family-owned property, is move easily. pilot Brad Reid for flying in situated on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River on the edge of PHOTO: CLZ PHOTO: Dr.Kasmboyi. the unique Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia. A different kind of arrow Darted elephant After an efficient dart- was received by a Lower ing by Dr.Kasmboyi Reports of a much younger The lodge offers the ultimate in comfort & luxury, with Zambezi elephant this a date with a Zambia Wildlife the wire was removed snared calf were followed up, unrivalled game viewing accompanied by professional guides, Valentine’s Day. After a Authority vet. and the wound but due to thick bush at this a luxury spa and world-class fishing and fly fishing. Royal Zambezi Lodge - the epitome of the luxury safari experience. severely injured bull was Playing cupid complete cleaned. Long-acting time of year, aerial and road antibiotics were adminis- tracking was not success- seen in the Nkalange area with dart gun was Dr Harvey www.royalzambezilodge.com tered to help recovery from ful and CLZ will continue of the Park, Conservation Kasmboyi, who was flown Email: [email protected] what would otherwise Lower Zambezi organised in to treat the elephant. The the search. Tel: +26 (0) 979 486618 have been a fatal injury.

Renowned for breathtaking scenery and incredible wildlife, it's also home to one of the continent's top safari lodges

Chongwe River Camp | Chongwe River House | Kasaka River Lodge | Tsika Island Canoe Camp From award winning 5 star to rustic self catering – we are your complete Lower Zambezi solution. Lusaka O ce Tel: +260 211 841051/ +260 211 841052 Cell: +260 9 77 771316 / +260 9 74 773209 Email: [email protected] / [email protected] 40 Travellers Friend zambezi kariba & middle-zam Zambezi Traveller

Travel COMMUNITY Zambezi X-factor Chillies to discourage crop raiders By Mana Meadows

here’s a lot to love about

Mana Pools. For me, CLZ PHOTOS: Tdaybreak is always a Clearing and planting Besa pumping highlight. There’s an exqui- By Sarah Davies site freshness that surrounds waking up before dawn in this Conservation Lower Zambezi staff spent a long hot day in Febru- tranquil riverside wilderness. ary in the village of Mugurameno, helping to plant chilli seedlings Being up and about early with to ward off crop raiding elephants. The seedlings were grown the rest of the diurnal animal by Zambeef at Chiawa from seed donated by South Luangwa kingdom is always satisfying. Conservation Society, in a project funded by the Civil Society But being up in a new space, in Environment Fund. the dark, with a steaming cup As part of CLZ’s Environmental Education Programme, two local PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS of coffee in hand and listening Mana pools in the morning farmers, Joseph Liempe and Patrick Shawa, were chosen from a to the last sounds of the night community survey because they have both suffered heavily from as it retreats from the creep- river scene. The trees, the drenches the tent. Look- More info: For more crop raiding elephants in the past. CLZ will assist with planting and ing dawn just adds that extra rocks, the escarpment all take ing up through the open information about booking sustainable irrigation using a treadle pump provided by CLZ. Next season these farmers will use a combination of methods to protect X-factor. The last lingering on their own identity and the tent flaps, the acacia albida accommodation in Mana crops, including chilli fences and chilli burning blocks. notes of lion music filter down bird chorus cranks up a notch. and pod mahogany cano- Pools National Park contact “This is a small-scale initial project, but we hope to increase our role from upstream while behind The hippos start to make their pies dance with the ceaseless the tent, grazing hippos huff Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife in human / elephant conflict activities, if we can secure funds and way to the river, dive-bombing flow of bright avian visitors and puff – honking and grum- while far up above, the sky is Management by viewing their once we have more practical knowledge of the risks and possible off the river bank like charac- solutions,” said a spokesperson for CLZ. bling at each other in the way momentarily frenetic with the website at www.zimparks.org ters from Disney’s Fantasia that only hippos do. flight paths of various species Human / wildlife conflict has been recognised as a major threat to movie – landing in spectacu- National Parks accommo- of egrets, herons, ducks, geese both the elephants and people of southern Africa, and should be Across the Zambezi, the lar shadowy explosions in the dation consists of communal addressed in the wider context of elephant conservation. and cormorants as they chart grey-blue Zambian escarp- water below. camping sites (with ablutions ment is kissed pink by the their way to feeding grounds. Simple, low-cost and locally adapted methods have been shown and braai facilities); private to reduce site-specific conflict so that people and elephants can From the comfort of your The sunrise itself is fleet- emerging sun. Mist rises off live together without danger and destruction. the river. The first light seeps sleeping bag you can watch ing, but the sense of clarity camping sites (basic toilet plus in and starts to separate the the whole show while the full and calm surrounding it lasts braai site) and lodges which Visit www.slcszambia.org / www.csefzambia.org shadowy forms of the flat flood of morning bird chorus all day. are fully kitted.

2012 Schedule Kariba Ferries

March 26 Kariba - Mlibizi LUXURY 27 Mlibizi - Kariba CRUISING April 5 Kariba - Mlibizi 6 Mlibizi - Kariba ON 9 April Kariba - Mlibizi LAKE 10 April Mlibizi - Kariba KARIBA 30 April Kariba - Mlibiz May 1 May Mlibizi - Kariba

14 May Kariba - Mlibizi

15 May Mlibizi - Kariba

Confirm all dates well in advance before making any bookings.

LUXURY CRUISING Linking Kariba and Victoria Falls GREAT SUNSET VIEWS

CONFERENCING UP TO 30 DELEGATES

TOP DECK WITH BAR & SWIMMING POOL

THE SOUTHERN BELLE HAS THREE DECKS OFFERING 21 EN-SUITE CABINS AS WELL AS A CONFERENCE ROOM FOR UP TO 40 PEOPLE, LOBBY, SUNDRY SHOP, RESTAURANT AND BAR, SWIMMING POOL AND TOP DECK WITH BAR. IDEAL FOR BOTH LEISURE AND BUSINESS CRUISES WITH SPECTACULAR VIEWS, STUNNING SUNSETS AS WELL AS A RANGE OF ACTIVITIES OR WONDERFUL RELAXING HOLIDAYS JUST SOAKING UP THE SUNSHINE. WHEN DOCKED AT THE BAY THE RESTAURANT ON BOARD THE SOUTHERN BELLE IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC; RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR RATES OR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CONTACT US ON +260 211 254 605 OR EMAIL [email protected] Sit back relax and let us do the driving PLOT 517 SIAVONGA, LAKE KARIBA, ZAMBIA | TEL: +260 211 511 638 | FAX: +260 211 511 639 EMAIL: [email protected] | proteahotels.com/southernbelle Tel: ZIM +263 4 614 162-7 Tel: RSA + 27 21 556 6965 Email: [email protected] Skype: kariba.ferries 2011 SAILING DATES HAVE BEEN POSTED SEE WEBSITE www.karibaferries.com Zambezi Traveller zambezi kariba & middle-zam Travellers Friend 41

RECREATION Test of the best is crowned Remington Gold proved their mettle once again by convincing winners of the claiming the title of 2012 Test of the Best champions. 2011 KITFT. They started off Test of the Best is a two-day catch and release tiger- well in the Test of the Best by fishing tournament held on Lake Kariba. establishing a good lead of 16 points to finish as the leading team after the first day. By Mana Meadows end of February in Charara, was contested by the top ten They carried on to win by a teams from the previous year’s margin of more than 30 points emington Gold proved Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish their mettle once again – echoing their performance at Tournament. The competi- by claiming the title of the KITFT where they were R tion was especially fierce and the leading team at the end of 2012 Test of the Best cham- pions. Test of the Best is a the victory especially sweet each of the three days of the two-day catch and release this year as 2011 marked the tournament. 50th anniversary of KITFT. tiger-fishing tournament held Despite only catching two on Lake Kariba. It’s been an impressive fish less than Remington PHOTO: KITFT The elite tournament, this few months from Reming- Gold, team Africom Charter Deane Le Roux, Dean Dewdney, Quinton Le Roux, Ewan Macmillan, Bryan Arnold And Peter year held over the last week- ton Gold who were also the X did not land enough heavy Lawson, winning team Remington Gold Credit DSW of KITFT

fish and they came in second Karl Eckard of Team Nissan Mega, Multichoice and RAM FACT FILE with 102.6 points, closely caught the heaviest individual petroleum continued in their Average weight of fish caught: 2.8 kgs followed by Bumi Hills Anti- fish, weighing in at 8.6 kgs. role as Silver Sponsors and Total weight of fish caught: 851.4 kgs Poaching with 101.2 points. Team ULTC Burn was the Rapala sponsored the scales Total Number of fish caught: 300 Quinton le Roux of Rem- only team that managed to used to weigh the fish prior to Results of 2012 Test of the Best Tournament: ington Gold said that his team catch their forty fish limit over their release. was really pleased as it was the Tournament Director Rod Position Team FISH POINTS the two days. first time they had won Bennett said that this year’s This year Bols Brandy 1 Remington Gold 35 134.9000 KITFT and Test of the Best event was “a real test of the came in as a new Gold 2 Africom Charter X 33 102.6000 back to back. “We worked best with the conditions really well as a team and both boats 3 Bumi Hills Anti-Poaching 31 101.2000 Sponsor, joining Nashua, testing the anglers.” 4 Stryke-Tynserv 29 92.9000 worked well together,” he said. Nissan and Zambezi, while 5 ULTC Team Burn 40 92.3000 Peter Lawson of Remington Schweppes Water pitched in Visit www.kitft.co.zw/totb 6 Team Mega 30 90.3000 Karl Eckard with his 8.6kg Gold landed the heaviest total as the official water sponsor. www.kitf.co.zw 7 Team Nissan 23 75.0000 tiger caught and released in catch with his 13 fish reaching 8 F Neill & Sons Bull Sharks 37 72.8000 the Gache Gache on day two o d rington a total weight of 45.1 kgs. He 9 Fisheagles 33 71.7000 was closely followed by Boetie of the competition. The larg- arren -C 10 Sakunda 9 17.7000 W O’Neill of Africom Charter X est fish of the tournament. who brought in 12 fish with a total weight of 42.5 kgs. PHOTO: B ob PHOTO: Our very own Lady Jacquiline ENJOY KARIBA WITH THE BEST

E x p e r i e n c e S o u t h e r n A f r i c a ! AOBAB [email protected] / Tel: +27 (0) 31 762 2424

BOOKING AGENTS FOOR VENOUES IKN ZIMIBABNWE/BOGTSWSANA/ ZAMBIA/NANMIBIA/MOZAMBIQUE Self Catering/Catered Accommodation in Kariba. (Wild Heritage, Nzou Lodges, FiBn’s fishing Safaris, Houseboats and fishing boat hire). For Bookings Contact: Kariba Office: (+263) 61 3127 & 2225, Mobile: (+263) 773 263 670/1, (+263) 712 417 358 or (+263) 712 412 555. Email: [email protected], [email protected]. Website: www.afrizim.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY Feathered fight over fishing spot Christopher Scott shares on how he achieved a great photo of eagle and heron rivalry in the wild.

By Christopher Scott

hristopher Scott shares on how he achieved a Cgreat photo of eagle and heron rivalry in the wild. On a recent visit to the stun- ning Matusadona National Park I was pottering around one of the multitude of quiet bays when I came across a Goliath heron going about his early morning routine; flitting from spot to spot looking for the biggest fish. The largest of the heron family, the Goliath is a beau- tiful bird and thus I was very keen to get a few pictures. I slowly and quietly eased myself into a position where I had a good view of him, hoping he would move towards me so the early light would catch him at the right angle and light up Almost on cue, the magnificent bird, his plumage. with wings outstretched, began his After a few moments of PHOTO: Christopher Scott blissful silence and serene pre-flight check, when all of a sudden in The fish eagle and the heron observation, he started Almost on queue, the finder was a blur of motion on. Which brings me to some moving, to my dismay, away a blur of sharp claws and unrestrained magnificent bird, with wings in from the top right, and I pearly photo advice; plan for from me and towards the open anger, a nearby previously peaceful fish heard the indignant squawk of water. Disappointed, but still outstretched, began his pre- everything and when it hap- the Goliath as it headed out, keen for a picture of this large eagle took deep exception to the pres- flight check, when all of a pens, when you are off guard, feathers somewhat ruffled! bird in flight, I lined up and ence of the Goliath. sudden in a blur of sharp don’t hesitate to hold your waited patiently for him to claws and unrestrained anger, Thankfully, due more to finger down on the shutter spread his wings and head out. a nearby previously peaceful instinct than anything else, button. You may end up with fish eagle took deep exception I managed to squeeze off a some stunning results! to the presence of the Goliath. few shots of the action before All I saw through the view- I even knew what was going Visit www.scottyphotography.net

AWARDS “WINNER - 2011 - SAFARI OPERATOR’S ASSOCIATION Situated in the eastern basin of OF ZIMBABWE AWARD FOR THE GREATEST CONTRIBU- Lake Kariba on the banks of the TION TO THE COMMUNITY” Gache Gache River. goes to... Chapungu Safa- ris t/a Gache Gache Lodge - Kariba Zimbabwe for Conservation to protect wildlife for the community. Establishing a Wildlife Envi- ronment Protection Unit (WEPU) for anti-poaching, including fish poaching Comfortable Chalets with panoramic views. Tiger and the protection & care of Fishing, Game viewing by boat or vehicle, guided wildlife. Fish population has walks, canoeing, sun downer cruises. improved tremendously since then. Gache Gache is known for its abundant wildlife and Fishing is a birding paradise. Rates include all activities, full Chapungu Safaris supplies Canoeing fuel for vehicles to take Game Drives board and laundry. Cash bar. Game Cruises poachers to Police/National Rhino Tracking e lodge is accessible by boat, road and air. Please Parks offices/jail in Kariba Walking Safaris An Island Paradise Dinosaur Fossils enquire and we will gladly arrange all your travel or town. Feeding animals in on Lake Kariba Tonga Cultural Village transfer requirements to suit your individual needs. drought times with hay Sailing (morning, afternoon, bales, molasses and salt licks. and overnight available) Contact Details Access by Air, Boat and Road. Wildlife populations have Chapungu Safaris t/a Gache Gache Lodge improved tremendously in 19 John Plagis Avenue, New Alexandra Park , Harare, Zimbabwe Tel: 00 263 4 745 717/745 762 the Gache Gache Wilder- Cell: 00 263 772 285 691 ness Area due to the efforts Email: [email protected] by Ray Townsend and the Web: www.gachegachelodge.com / www.chapunguzim.com WEPU team.” Skype: bernie.styles Reservations: +(263-13) 43358 Cell: +(263) 772 307 875 Email: [email protected] www. musangosafaricamp.com Zambezi Traveller zambezi kariba & middle-zam Travellers Friend 43

TRAVEL Getting around the Zambezi Valley

By Sally Wynn HOW TO GET TO KARIBA Hwange (Manga): Somalisa Bumi Hills 18-seater transfer Camps boat from Kariba: Boat trans- fers across Lake Kariba from reative options for Hwange: The Hide, Sikumi Tree Kariba town to the Bumi Hills transferring visi- Lodge, Ivory, Miombo & Hwange harbour. 6-18 passengers. tors into and around Safari Lodges Crossing about one and a half C hours, depending on weather. the Lake Kariba - Zambezi Bumi Hills: Bumi Hills Safari On board bar. Valley areas are springing up [email protected] this year, and travellers should Lodge, Rhino Safari Camp, Musango Camp think seriously about extend- River Horse Safaris: Road ing their trips to include Lake Kariba: fuel stop or house boats transfers Lusaka-Chirundu- Kariba: minibus road transfers Kariba’s magnificent water Mana (Dandawa): Kanga Camp for groups (minimum 3 passen- wildernesses and the wildlife gers) Lusaka-Kariba or return tourism options downstream Mana Pools: Zambezi Life Styles, (3-4 hours daily). Also 11-seater of the dam. Vundu Camp, Goliath Safaris, vari- minibus transfers Lusaka- ous canoeing and walking safaris Chirundu for onward 4x4 The international travel transfer into Mana Pools in con- junction with Tailormade Safaris industry has started to remem- Bumi Air 5-seater twin-engine A number of creative (see below) (allow 5-6 hours ber what a wonderful place flights: Coming soon: scheduled Lusaka-Mana Pools). Drinks and options for transferring Zimbabwe is; an uncrowded flights between Bumi Hills airstrip meals can be arrangement on visitors are springing up African destination with a (on the southern shore of Lake request. this year, and inter- Kariba) and Victoria Falls in a Baron [email protected] variety of travel opportunities, national agents, tour 55 (twin engine 5-seater). Depart friendly people and pristine operators and travellers Bumi 0800 on Tuesdays, Fridays Tailormade Safaris: Road wildlife and safari options. should think seriously transfers Kariba-Chirundu- and Sundays. Return same day. about extending their Mana Pools. This is a new Victoria Falls remains the Flight time 90 minutes, minimum trips to include Lake product from a company country’s best-known desti- 2 passengers, 15 kg of luggage per that also offers minibus road Kariba’s magnificent Kariba Creek with hippos PHOTO: KIERAN WYNN nation, but few internationals person only, packed in a soft bag. transfers linking Kasane and water wilderness and the are aware of the Zambezi Riv- On-board refreshments. Bumi Livingstone with Victoria Falls, safari destinations down- Hwange, Bulawayo, Matopos, er’s jewels downstream of the Matusadona, Kariba and Mana to Victoria Falls on the same day Hills airstrip services Bumi Hills Falls, where most of the Zim- stream of the dam. , the Eastern Pools, in a 4-seater single-engine Safari Lodge, Musango Safari babwean side of the river is at 15.35. Pay for and fly only the Highlands, Harare and Lusaka. Camp and Rhino Safari Camp. Guests are transferred by protected wildlife area. Cessna 206. Flights depart Victoria sector you require. Minimum 2 Access options: Falls at 08.00 on Tuesdays, Thurs- Flexible hops will also be available knowledgeable driver/guides. Self-drive locals and South passengers. 20 kg luggage per Refreshments, snacks and Safari Logistics Air Taxi: Run days and Sundays and make to other airstrips; charters avail- Africans fell under the spell packed lunches included on by African Bush Camps link- a circuit between the various person packed in a soft bag. No able on non-schedule flight days. of Lake Kariba a long time longer transfers. ing Victoria Falls, Hwange, on-board refreshments. E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] ago but international visitors airstrips listed below, returning have yet to discover the idyllic holiday options available on Zimbabwe’s inland sea. Watch International visitors elephants, hippos, and even lion from your lake- have yet to discover shore lodge or bushcamp, or the idyllic holiday from a houseboat, cruiseboat or sailboat parked in a quiet options available on www.africanbushcamps.com creek; take a guided walking safari and track the rare black Zimbabwe’s Kanga Camp and Zambezi Life Styles rhinoceros; catch your supper inland sea. PHOTO: SALLY WYNN of tilapia off the back of the Canoes in Mana Pools offer inland and riverside experiences of the World Heritage Site, Mana Pools boat, or do sporting battle with Visitors to Zimbabwe are but few reliable services link- is minimal and accommo- the formidable tigerfish. missing out on something dation is in small lodges or ing Kariba and the Zambezi (263) 9 234307 +263774641622 [email protected] Further downstream, the special if they don’t look fur- tented camps to enhance Valley with these regional river offers safaris through ther than Victoria Falls. But the wilderness experience of tourism hubs. unbroken wildlife country, how to get there? There are with Mana Pools National visitors and protect the area’s international flights into Vic- Website: www.wildzambezi.com Park and its neighbouring pristine character. toria Falls, Harare and Lusaka, safari areas forming a vast ZAMBEZI TRADER UNESCO World Heritage LAKE KARIBA Site. Canoe the river on a 3-4 day safari, walk in the game- rich, riverine woodlands, or tackle the legendary river tigerfish which are leaner and meaner than their Lake Kariba counterparts. This is a wild paradise where development

HO ER R V S I E WEDDINGS, CONFERENCES, REUNIONS, R ANNIVERSARIES FOR GROUPS OF 20 UP TO 90+ Zimbabwe’s iconic destination on Lake Kariba IS SAFAR [email protected] Adventure style participatory www.bumihills.com canoeing trips for out door enthusiasts, incentive groups +263 (0) 772 135 664 and youth challenges. Situated in the Lower SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR: Zambezi River between SCHEDULED CRUISE DATES Kariba Dam and KARIBA - BINGA CRUISE DATES Mana Pools and beyond Road transfers Lusaka – Harare – Kariba – Mana www.zambezitrader.co.zw; [email protected] (+263)773 021 203 ; 0772 601 875 ; 0774 343 855 Email: [email protected] 85 Harare drive, Marlborough, Harare Tel: 263 – 772235340 / 772235311 http://www.zambezicanoeing.com 44 Travellers Friend zambezi kariba & middle-zam Zambezi Traveller

ART & CRAFT Registration forms available via email 2012 Kariba Half Marathon or can be collected from: Bed of thorns SUNDAY 12 AUGUST 2012 Old Georgians Sports Club, Harare, Lomagundi Lakeside By Will Maberly REGISTRATION – OG’S HARARE Thurs- day 2 & Friday 3 August 5pm Office, Kariba - E-mail – kariba- – 8pm [email protected] Old buffalo bulls can be cantankerous - walk- LATE REGISTRATIONS LOMAGUNDI Tel: Kiara 0779 675 935 (Working ing across something like this can make your LAKESIDE, KARIBA, Saturday 11 hours only) Sonya 0772 874 352 heart beat a lot faster. These old men often August from 10am – 4pm. (Working hours only) COME JOIN hang about in thickets, and nearly always sit in Strictly no entries after 4pm US For a fun filled weekend with such a way that they cover each other’s backs. water slides, bucking bronco, ENTRY FEE - $20 per 21km & 10km note that only the first 3 runner disco, full bar and catering Here, in the shade of the palms and a young entry, $2 for 2km baby race. in will be timed) Baby race starts at Baobab tree, amongst the combretum thickets, before and after the race! Accom- Start Time - & Where Start Is Start 10h30 at the Lomagundi Lakeside modation enquiries contact: sit three old men living life as it is, in the comfort main gate and necessity of each other’s presence. time AMC garage - 21km Half gokariba.com: enquiries@gokariba. Marathon start 06h30 10km Fun Prize giving from 11h30 at Lomagundi com or [email protected] Website: www.willmaberlyart.com Run start 06h40 (fun runners to Lakeside Dome

Advertise in the Kariba & Lower Zambezi Classifieds Classifieds Sonya McMaster [email protected] +263 772 874 352 MORE ONLINE Accommodation Boating Food Supplies Restaurants

Mcline Canvas - For all your manufacture & repairs Crispy Fresh - Visit our One Stop Shop! Criselle’s @ Warthogs - Delicious meals available www.zambezitraveller.com of all boating, Safari & outdoor living accessories. Suppliers of all Dairy, Beef, Pork, Poultry, at Warthogs Bushcamp, Powerline road, Kariba The Zambezi River is now officially online Contact: McLine - + 263 772 709 470 or Fresh Fruit, Vegetables & Dry Goods. Contact Criselle - +263 772 358 432 or +261 61 2701 +263 61 2627 Stand 740 Chawara, Kariba All you will need for your Holiday to Kariba. E-mail - [email protected] Thatching Grass Kariba Houseboat Cruises Special - February Tel: +263 61 2880/3024/2592 and March 2012 Offering 4 nights for the price of 3 or +263 773 921 687 on Shikra, Osprey and Peregrine Full catering offered. Thatching grass suppliers, contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell +263 (0) Contact: Lynn or Cally Warthogs Bush Camp, Kariba - Clean and Comfy Blue Waters @ Andora Harbour, Kariba. 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: Budget Accommodation for families, groups and Phone: +263 61 2923, We offer Beers & Soft Drinks on a Sale on return [email protected]. Website: http..// individuals. Bar on the lakeshore serving meals all Mobile: +263 (0) 774 578 622 basis plus Ice & Fishing Bait. thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs,com day every day. Splash Pool, Kid’s Play Area. DSTV. Email: [email protected] Registered Tour Operators for Houseboats, Canoe Contact: [email protected] Safaris, Tailor Mades. [email protected] www. Tel: +263 61 2971 / 2972 Tours & Safaris warthogs.co.zw 0712 201 733 0775 068 406 Fine Art Pesha Safaris - Zimbabwe - Houseboats, Canoe Tamarind lodges - Comfortable, Budget Self Harbours Catering Lodges in Kariba Safaris, Vic Falls, Botswana - Chobe, Delta, Tented E-mail - [email protected] Safaris. Zambia - Luangwa Bush Camps, Exclusive Tel - +263 61 2697 or +263 772 880868 Chawara Harbour - t/a C&D SUPPLIES Lodges Contact us for all your Holiday Packages and GPS Reading S 16°31’28.6° E 028°49’19.5° Suppliers of all Drinks, Ice, Bait, Fuel & Oil and the personalised safari itineraries. Best Biltong, Dry Wors & Chilli Bites in Zimbabwe. Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba Pagungwa Lodge, Breezes Road, Kariba. E-mail - [email protected] Lodge with swimming pool & 4 bedrooms en-suite, Contact - Colin or Debbie Phone - +263 61-3121/2247/3181 fully serviced. Contact us for Rates etc. Cell - +263 774 143 064 Phone - +263 61 3278 Garth - +263 772 877 083 Mobile – +263 772 763 916/8 Fiona - +263 773 194 088 E-mail - [email protected] E-mail - [email protected] Mopani Cruises - for all your icentive travel on Hardware Houseboats & Catering, Lodges, Transfers & day trip bookings Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba

Boating E-mail - [email protected] or Endura Rubba Paints - For all your Will Maberly Art Landscapes and scenes from [email protected] requirements of Dulux Paints, Lubricants, Rj Marine Services - Outboard Motor Service & the Zambezi Valley, oil on canvas, by renowned Phone - 00 263 613195 Repairs by trained personnel. Stand 762 Chawara Thinners, Resin, Fibreglass, Filters, Eezipool Cell - 00 263 772 856 319 Kariba Contact: Rob - +263 61 2356 / artist Will Maberly. Visit our website or make an Products, V belts & accessories, +263 772 355 561 appointment to have a private viewing of this Sheer Magic Houseboat - Kariba Zimbabwe Tandem lawnmowers, Eureka DIY and more amazing art collection. Phone +263 (0) 772 For a fantastic pontoon houseboat experience! Chessa - 46’ Monohull Steel boat fully equipped for Contact: Nikki - 0774 060 717 Sale or Share Option. Moored at Marineland, Kariba 218573, +263 (0) 772 205932, email wm@ Contact: Sonya McMaster +263 772 874 352 Contact: Garth - +263 772 877 083 iitrade.net and website www.willmaberlyart.com Tiri - 0775 965 547 Land Line - 061 2325 E-mail - [email protected] Thatching Grass

Experience a houseboat holiday with DRIFTER and MAKULU Mono-hull houseboat HOUSEBOAT CHARTERS that can sleep Kariba, Zimbabwe up to 12 pax.

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JEWELLERY Finding the secrets of the stone Having access to a myriad of as I work,” says Aude, a true By Pam Lindsay Each piece of jewellery hand crafted from African stones and knowledge artist. Entirely hand-made through her geologist ex-hus- on the premises, each piece is ompiling a feature on African crystals and stones by Our Crystal band, Aude made a couple crafted from silver and genu- Harare’s Doon Estate of necklaces for herself. The for the December ine African gems and crystals. C Passion is a work of art. response and reactions when issue of Zambezi Traveller, I she wore these pieces planted Our Crystal Passion happened across a truly Zim- Sieglinde, are as unique and the seeds and ultimately the donated for auction a unique babwean gem. Set in beautiful colourful as each of the pieces birth of the business Our necklace and earring set called suburban surroundings, Our they create. Our Crystal Pas- Crystal Passion. ‘Awakening the Wild Woman’ Crystal Passions’ airy prem- sion came into being ten ises exude calm, tranquility years ago when Aude, who is Each exquisite creation is to the highly successful Cel- and creativity. a trained and practicing yoga unique and individual, hiding ebration of Painted Wolves The two owners of this teacher, became interested in a secret message for the wearer. event, featured in this issue of treasure trove, Aude and the ‘energies’ of crystals. “The stones have to sing to me Zambezi Traveller. HIFA 2012 1-5 May Whats On HARARE INternational FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS This years’ theme is A Time to Show! Thursdays Acting classes @ Reps George Barnes Room at Reps Theatre Are you an actor/actress? Do you aspire to be one? Then Reprobates is for you! Acting classes with an accent on fun and easy learning. Every Thursday in the George Barnes Room at Reps Theatre, starting 6pm Open to all – Reps members and aspiring Reps members (you’ll be shown how to join up!) Linked to this initiative is SUNDAY NIGHT LIVE a monthly showcase for Reprobates and other talent in Theatre Upstairs.

29 March 7pm The Gospel of Othello British Ambassador residence Fundraiser for the Harare City Library. The British Ambassador is hosting a Black Tie, Venetian-themed Champagne Dinner and Theatre, with an exclusive performance of The Gospel of Othello with Patrice Niambana (Royal Shakespeare Company) and talented Zimbabwean artists, at her residence on. Tables of 10 and limited numbers only. Contact Nancy Benham [email protected] or 0772 127214

23 to 27 May Music Dance Theatre Arts & Crafts Fine Art Workshops Bulawayo Music Festival Poetry Food Stalls Memorabilia Call for Volunteer Experienced Choristers. Carl Orff’s magnificent work, Carmina Burana, will be performed by massed choirs and Look out for Edith we Utonga (Zimbabwe’s only female lead singer who accompanied by top international musicians at the upcoming Bulawayo plays the bass guitar) as she teams up with Publish the Quest (USA) to Music Festival. For more information Contact [email protected] produce a unique Afro - Rock fusion performance on the Main Stage.

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CONSERVATION in ACTION Compiled by Lin Barrie Celebrating Painted Wolves Funds raised by a glamorous “Safari Soiree” in Harare will go to two Zimbabwean wild dog conser- vation projects, Painted Dog Conservation based in Hwange, and the Lowveld Wild Dog Project based in the south east of the country. Emma and Conor O’Beirne of Happy Readers Books have donated ten sets of literacy series to LWDP, plus class- room kits, which will directly benefit children in schools adjacent to Gonarezhou National Park. The Safari Soiree will Snare and her sister be repeated in 2013, and ‘A Celebration of Painted Wolves,’ which now has its The story of Snare Lin Barrie and Jeremy Borg meet with The Giant bottle in Harare own facebook page, is grow- Artist Lin Barrie has been watching and wo wild dog con- One of the auction prizes at ing into a project with far sketching wild dogs for many years, never Mahenye school children, beneficia- reaching initiatives for wild servation projects the event was a giant bottle of ries from Happy Reader Books and wearying of these graceful and seriously were the beneficiar- Painted Wolf Shiraz, which education outreach programmes dog conservation. T endangered animals. ies of a glamorous soiree in arrived after some adventure Project based in the south east Jeremy Borg is planning Harare late last year. Billed en route by air and road from n the many years that I have been watching and of the country. Pedals for Paws, in which Cape Town. sketching wild dogs, I have never wearied of my passion the ‘Conservation Event of he will ride by bicycle to key the Year,’ the event com- Painted Dog Conservation for these graceful and seriously endangered animals. Catering for the dinner wild dog sites in Sub-Saharan I bined talks by wildlife will use the funds to continue was by Lee Vermaak, and the Africa during 2012 and 2013, Thick coats of black and gold, splashed with unique experts, catering by a top its children’s bush camp pro- event was held in an elegant gramme in Hwange in 2012, to raise funds for, and aware- white markings and white flagged tails, greeted us when event coordinator and an white Rooneys tent pitched in having lost the support of an ness of wild dog conservation. we first saw the particular pack of wild dogs that we exhibition by well-known the Mukuvisi Woodlands, an international donor at the watched throughout 2007, in the south of the Save Valley wildlife artist Lin Barrie. appropriately wild location in close of 2011. The two Zimbabwean Conservancy. Lean and long-legged, with astonishingly the heart of the city. wild dog research projects large black ears and elegant black masks, these animals were Supporting the event The Lowveld Wild Dog will engage with Mukuvisi a painter’s dream of energetic movement and colour. was Painted Wolf Wines Funds raised by the event Project will use the funds to of Cape Town, launched by went to two Zimbabwean wild facilitate a mobile education Woodlands’ Eco Schools pro- Except for one young female. A gaping wound betrayed Jeremy and Emma Borg, dog conservation projects, and library unit to provide a gramme during 2012, giving a wire snare wrapped tight around her throat. She was wary with their local agents Painted Dog Conservation variety of educational resource interactive talks to Harare and difficult to approach, since the pack had not yet denned. Harrison and Hughson. and the Lowveld Wild Dog materials direct to communities. school children. I called her ‘Snare’ and knew she would die if we did not help her. FACT FILE populations are declining Iganyana Arts and Crafts produce The Alpha female of Snare’s pack was visibly pregnant, generally; the challenges for sculptures from recovered snare and obviously looking for a suitable den site. After many conservationists are threefold: wire. The children’s bush camp anxious days, scouts located the den in a warthog burrow and conservation clubs at local and we began to habituate the dogs to our presence, in the WORK with local people schools teach conservation con- process discovering that more than nine pups had been born. to enable wild dogs to cepts, promoting an ongoing Each day I watched Snare struggle to breathe. She reso- co-exist with increas- interest in nature. Lycaon ing human populations, lutely trailed after her pack on every hunt, interacting as best through better protec- The Lowveld Wild Dog Pro- she could with her boisterous siblings. Thin and subdued, tion and implementation ject, working in the Save Valley she avoided playing with the new puppies, unlike her sisters. pictus of education programmes. Conservancy and Gonarezhou, believes that investing in future Her siblings licked her terrible wound and chaperoned generations and improving her constantly. I cried as her brother repeatedly tried to bite Tete-an older female ‘Aunt’ from Establish effective tech- the terrible noose from her neck. Snare tried hard to interact Snare’s pack, Inset: The four the relationships between pro- surviving pups in Snare’s pack niques for protecting tected areas and neighboring with her siblings in the pep rallies before evening hunts, but small wild dog popula- communities will have immeas- she could not match their playful exuberance. According to the IUCN Red tions from infections such urable benefits for long term Another tragedy then hit the dogs - a python discovered Data list for endangered spe- as rabies and distemper. conservation on a broad scale. cies, between 3000 – 5500 African wild dogs have Community education and out- the burrow and, overnight, ate many of the pups. The Alpha free-ranging wild dogs remain reach are a primary focus. The female immediately relocated the four surviving pups to a disappeared from much Expand connectivity of in Africa, mostly in southern project is implementing a long nearby warthog burrow. habitat available to wild Africa and parts of East Africa. of their former range term, sustainable education pro- dogs across southern After some aborted attempts to dart the elusive Snare, gramme for primary schools in Lycaon pictus, meaning throughout sub- Africa, emphasising the eventually we immobilized her. Removing the wire, we the Greater Limpopo Trans Fron- ‘painted, wolf-like animal,’ is importance of corridors found that it had begun to cut into her trachea. Cleaning Saharan Africa. tier Conservation Area, together a descriptive name for the between Trans Frontier the wound as best we could, we administered antibiotics graceful wild dog, also com- Conservation Areas. with Chishakwe Ranch and the free-ranging wild dogs remain in and hope... monly known as painted dog Lowveld Rhino Trust. Africa, mostly in southern Africa or African hunting dog. Painted Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, Then came a transformation that was wondrous to behold and parts of East Africa. The Conservation projects listed wolf is another apt name for adjacent to Gonarezhou, has an - slowly but surely Snare went from strength to strength, below address all of the above this endangered predator, In Zimbabwe, there are estimated excellent community outreach interacting more and more each day with the pups and challenges; here ZT highlights the considering the similarities in to be about 520 wild dogs. Since programme and have initiated a hunting with her pack. educational aspects of their work. social pack structure between the formation of the Save Valley schools bush camp programme. Conservancy in 1991, the wild Painted Dog Conservation, work- She was a new animal, the breath still faintly whistling African wild dogs and wolves. Mukuvisi Woodlands in Harare through the healing hole in her neck, but her eyes bright and Although it belongs to the dog population there has slowly ing in Hwange, Victoria Falls and has a strong ‘Eco-Schools’ pro- her enthusiasm boundless. She became a leader of the hunt, Family Canidae, the wild dog is re-introduced itself. Likewise, the Mana Pools, aims to protect and populations of Mana Pools, Victo- increase the range and numbers gramme working with schools in often being the first to return with the Alpha male, both not of the species canis. Unlike and around the capital city. wolves, it cannot interbreed ria Falls and surrounds, Hwange of the painted dog in Zimbabwe bloody necked from a successful kill, to regurgitate food for and surrounds, Gonarezhou and elsewhere in Africa. They with domestic dogs. the Alpha female and the pups. National Park and Malilangwe are committed to creating a According to the IUCN Red Wildlife Reserve, have shown conservation model built on Snare will be forever an icon of survival in my memory; an Data list for endangered spe- encouraging resilience in the education, community involve- indomitable, invaluable, social animal. cies, between 3000 – 5500 face of adversity. However, ment and international support.

9a Drew Road, Chisipite, Tel: 0774 638 893 Email: [email protected] Sponsored by Booze-@-Drew Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Zambezi Traveller zambezi backpage Travellers Friend 47

Good evening to you Teddy. distribution

I have just returned from a trip to Botswana, and during my 30000 wanderings I came across a couple of issues of your Zambezi world wide Traveller. Hi Francis Being an ex Zimbabwean now living in South Africa, I Teddy Brightman I have been meaning to write to you ever since I first read found your publication to be possibly the most interesting Accounts Advertising your newspaper - it is just wonderful!! We enjoyed the newspaper that I have ever come across, and I pored over it & Subscriptions last one so I thought it is high time we wrote and tried to Victoria Falls, Chobe, Caprivi for hours!! and Windhoek subscribe. I would like to subscribe for ourselves and four Tel: +263 (0) 712 217 178, Email: [email protected] others. I was reading through it and was delighted to see It covers what happens to be my passion – a part of Africa John Cockburn’s article and a picture of my Mum, her Mum unparalleled anywhere else in the World. Frances Jackson and her brothers. All Editorial & Advertising Chrissie, Mutare Please advise me how to go about receiving regular copies, Victoria Falls, Kariba, Middle and whether or not they can be posted, andThe Zambezi if so where Traveller Zambezi (Zambia and Zimbabwe), welcomes letters to Livingstone, Lusaka, Mozambique postage payment can be made. the editor Tel:+263 (0) 712 208 370, South Africa [email protected] Email: [email protected] Frances Gordon Guthrie, “Thoroughly Pam Lindsay I have just received my copy enjoyed the articles Advertising of the Traveller - and is full Harare, Kariba & Lower Zambezi in issue 06 of your news- Tel: +263 (0) 772 230 971 enough now to keep me Tel: +263 (0) 714 305 886, paper. Would be interested busy for three or four nights Email: pam [email protected] to feature some of when I crawl into bed. I was Joe Myburgh our products” SO thrilled with the cover- Advertising and Editorial Msuna Safaris and Dear Editor Okavango Delta, Chobe and age you gave my Dad’s article Botswana. Travel Tel : +267 (0) 713 03 808 – unedited ! Thank you very I stumbled across your paper at one of the fishing shops I frequent here in Email: [email protected] much. I have had a few calls from Johannesburg, unfortunately It’s the second edition from 2010, could you possibly assist me in getting up to date editions of your paper. Fiona Hayden-Payne people who have seen it. Keep up the good I thoroughly enjoyed reading your paper and must commend the excellent Advertising and Editorial work work and articles you produce. Lusaka, Middle-Zambezi (Zambia), Luangwa Much love Kind Regards Mobile 0974 595538 Skype – fionahhp1 Angus Roberts, South Africa Email – [email protected] Mark and Caryl, Cape Town Baynham Goredema Advert Design and Make Up Tel : +27 (0) 72 600 5283 Tel: +263 (0) 774 867 806 MORE ONLINE Email:[email protected] www.zambezitraveller.com The Zambezi River now is officially online Available from: Local Hotels and Lodges and coffee shops

The travellers friend, a definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi. Distributed world wide to Travel Agents, industry shows, hotels, lodges and key public areas throughout the re- gion, including capital cities. Ex- pose your destination, activities, businesses to an international market through the Zambezi Traveller.

Editorial Submissions Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format to [email protected]

Publisher The Zambezi Traveller P O Box 183, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe,

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Disclaimer All information and points of view are of those of the people who submitted them, and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Editors. Whilst every effort has been made to ascertain the validity of the information submitted Zambezi Traveller cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies. Zambezi Traveller does not accept any liability for any advertising copy/content not received correctly. Zambezi Traveller reserves the right to refuse advertising material that does not meet its specifications or advertising standards. zambezitraveller.com 48 Travellers Friend zambezi backpage Zambezi Traveller

RESEARCH Top award for lion researcher Dr Andrew Loveridge from Oxford University’s Wildlife Conservation Research Unit (Department of Zoology) has won the SATIB Trust Award in recognition of his dedicated work in understanding lion biology and supporting conservation in Africa. recognition,” said Brian is a model for how scientific Courtenay, South African discoveries can inform policy businessman, founder and and change practice, leading Chairman of SATIB Insur- to benefits for both wildlife ance Brokers and the Ivory and people. Group. “For me it is a great “Our findings at Hwange honour to award this Lan- have influenced ideas about drover Defender to Andy for people living alongside preda- his and the team’s ongoing tors around the world. Andy enthusiasm and dedication.” Loveridge’s inspiration and The award was created dedication to lion conserva- to mark the launch of the tion has been immense, and SATIB Trust. Courtenay WildCRU is deeply proud has been a trustee of Endan- of his achievements and this gered Wildlife Trust for 17 richly deserved prize.” years, a trustee of Elephants SATIB Insurance Brokers/ for Africa (UK) for four years Ivory Group provide risk and is a long standing sup- solutions for the hospitality, porter of conservation work tourism, safari and wildlife in southern Africa. He now industry throughout southern chairs the SATIB Trust which Africa using long term under- will provide a conduit of sup- writing facilities with Lloyds port to conservation projects of London. in Africa. Visit www.wildcru.org Prof. David Macdonald, Director the WildCRU, com- Visit http://www.satib.co.za/ mented “Our work at Hwange SATIB_Trust.aspx The grand prize, a landrover from SATIB Trust PHOTO: BRIAN COURTENAY

By ZT correspondent Conservation Research Unit wide, face significant threats to within the Zoology Depart- their continued survival in the ment at the University. He wild. One of the keys to halt- esearcher and conser- has spent the last 15 years ing the continued decline of vationist Dr Andrew researching lions and other these species is through hands- Loveridge from Oxford R carnivores in southern Africa. on practical research and University’s Wildlife Con- conservation, undertaken by servation Research Unit has Loveridge heads the WildCRU and the Hwange won the SATIB Trust Award Hwange Lion Project which for his work focused on lion focuses on the ecology, behav- Lion Conservation Project.” in Hwange. iour and conservation of The SATIB Trust award the lion, aiming to provide The SATIB Trust supports ceremony and handover of reliable data for the conserva- conservation initiatives to pro- a specially fitted new Land tect southern Africa’s natural tion and management of this Rover Defender LWB will heritage for future generations iconic species. coincide with Indaba, the and the Award is in recogni- “I am delighted and deeply annual tourism convention tion of the dedication of the honoured to accept this in Durban, South Africa. The Hwange Lion Project team award,” said Dr Loveridge. “It vehicle has drop sides, long working in Zimbabwe under is immensely encouraging to range fuel tanks, duel bat- difficult conditions. have my own and my team’s tery, 220 Volts power system and GPS. Dr Loveridge is the Kaplan research and conservation efforts recognised. Research Fellow at Lady Mar- “I know the harsh con- PHOTO: SATIB TRUST HWANGE LION RESEARCH Brian Courtenay hands over the Landrover log book to Dr. Andy Loveridge. garet Hall, Oxford University, “African lions and most ditions these researchers Left to right. Crouching - Brent Stapelkamp, Lovemore Sibanda, and a member of the Wildlife other large carnivores, world- work under with little Standing - Brian Courtenay, Andrew Loveridge, Jane Hunt