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The Stan Steen has a hole in it Aerial view of North Ronaldsay from northwest - Dennis head on left, Tor Ness on right NORTH RONALDSAY service was the most isolat- and possibly Norse settle- The Stan Stane (HY752529), beach, stuck her finger in 1795, "The writer of this (ON Rinansey, Ringan's Isle ed inhabited island in ment on the point of Strom a monolith with a hole through it and went onto the has seen fifty of the inhabi- or Ninian’s Isle) is 's Orkney. It has a character Ness at the southern tip of through, stands not far from land and planted it into the tants assembled there on the most northerly island, and all of its own and it is here the island. This and the pier near the south end. ground. first day of the year, and with its larger neighbour, that the Orkney Norn lan- its associated earthworks The hole may have been a dancing with moonlight, Sanday, is distinctly differ- guage survived in use the occupy a good defensive sighting hole for some other The stone is the centre of an with no other music than ent. It is low-lying, reaching longest. Many old words position, and was inhabited standing stone. No tradition ancient North Ronaldsay their own singing." There only 23m at Holland, its are still used locally. until at least the 9th century. similar to the Stone of Odin New Year tradition where may have been a stone circle highest point and is about seems to exist. According to the islanders gather, accord- at Tor Ness (HY755555) on 5km (3 miles) long by 3km Its relative isolation from the During excavation in the folklore, the hole was made ing to Rev William Clouston the west side. (2 miles) wide. The rocks rest of Orkney, due to the 1880s the much-copied by a giant woman who are flags, which lack of a daily ferry service, Pictish Burrian Cross was found the stone on the

form the flattish beaches and has meant that old traditions found, along with two Ox S M

the several dangerous sker- and ways of doing things phalangeal bones inscribed H A

ries offshore, while consid- have not yet been forgotten. with Pictish symbols, an C R erable accumulations of As in Sanday, many of the Ogam stone, a small Celtic windblown sand have built older farms are built on top bell and various fine bone up in many places. of raised mounds which con- combs and tools. The large tain the remains of previous mound nearby (HY761513) North Ronaldsay is separat- buildings, often going back is an important prehistoric ed from Sanday by the North to prehistoric times. A good and Norse settlement. Both Ronaldsay , with its example is the abandoned this and the broch are being very strong tides and until farm on a large mound at seriously eroded by the sea. Pebble with Pictish inscriptions Interior of showing well and scarcement the introduction of the air Cruesbreck near Bustatoun (HY763525). A unique fea- The Stan Steen Phalangeal Ox bone with mirror symbol Aerial view of broch showing Sheep Dyke and ramparts The “Burrian Cross” S ture of North Ronaldsay is M H S A M

its Sheep Dyke, a 19km- C H R A long drystone wall which C R keeps the sheep on the fore- shore and off the good land.

Archaeology Sites include the very impressive Broch of Burrian (HY763514), part of an extensive Iron Age

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Ness in November 1740, system of the time was the only thirteen survivors mak- “catadioptric”, or reflecting ing it to the shore. Much of system, which consisted of a the valuable cargo of silk cluster of lamps burning oil, and other goods was sal- with copper reflectors, which vaged. Underwater archae- were cleaned with a soft linen ology work in 1976 brought rag and Spanish white (finely up many interesting finds. powdered chalk) until they were perfectly bright. These In 1744 the Danish East instructions “were to be strict- Indiaman, the Crown The lamphouse with its lenses ly adhered to, or a great part of The light is now electric Prince, went ashore at Savie the effect of the light was lost”. Kirk Taing, Dennis Head with the Old Beacon, sheep punds and planticrues In 1786, an Act of Parliament lighthouse was clear, and the Geo but this time her crew Treb Dykes The Muckle site. The Old Kirk was passed to erect four light- present 42m tower at Dennis and cargo were saved. This remained the only light in Gairsty (HY751535 to (HY755532) is early 19th houses in , including Head was first lit in 1854. Three of her cannon still the North Isles until the Start HY768521) and Matches century, but may be on the one on North Ronaldsay. The guard the lawn at Holland Point light was built in 1806 on Dyke are “treb dykes” site of an older church, others were , "The necessity for giving an House (HY756532), which Sanday. North Ronaldsay which divide the island into while the name Kirk Taing, and Eilean extensive range to the light at has been in the Traill family lighthouse was then consid- three parts - Northyard, the site of the Old Beacon at Glas on Scalpay. Thomas North Ronaldsay, which is to since 1727. The gardens ered redundant, and extin- Linklet and Southyard. Dennis Head, suggests Smith, an Edinburgh lamp- warn the mariner of his here, with their Sycamore guished in 1809, its lantern These dykes are thought to another old chapel. maker was the engineer with approach to the North Foreland and Fuchsia, attract many being replaced by the “great be ancient, and probably Ezekiel Walker, an English of Orkney, combines with the migrant birds and are much wall of masonry” removed date from before 1000BC. Lighthouses North lighthouse designer, to advise lower level of land, to render a used for ringing studies by from the now redundant Start Legend has it that three Ronaldsay was notorious for in the initial stages. Smith was high tower unavoidable", the Bird Observatory. Point beacon in 1806. By brothers shared the island shipwrecks, and with the assisted by his step-son Robert (Lighthouse Commissioners 1852 the need for a proper between themselves. Near growth of shipping traffic in Stevenson, founder of the report). Newbigging the Muckle the 17th and 18th centuries, famous family of lighthouse Gairsty is 10m wide and they became ever more fre- engineers, and grandfather of nearly 2m high. quent. The first recorded Robert Louis Stevenson. wreck is of the Spanish Chapel Sites on the island galleon from which the sup- Smith chose to build the first include Bride's Ness (St posed Dons sur- North Ronaldsay tower at Kirk Bride's, HY772522), Howmae vived, which was probably Taing, the most easterly point Brae (HY758523), and lost in the Dennis Röst. The of Dennis Head. By the Senness (Holy Cross, Swedish East Indiaman, autumn of 1789 the masons, HY776555), where a plat- Svecia went ashore on the John White and James form indicates the chapel Reef Dyke, east of Strom Oil lamp and decorated vent Sinclair, had built the 21m William Muir shows the electronics which control lighthouses nowadays tower of local undressed stone, The Old Beacon was first lit in 1789 Holland House gardens attract many birds during migration time along with the lightkeepers’ The New Lighthouse was built in 1854, the tower is 42m high and has 176 steps dwellings. The mason's work came to £199/12/6. The bea- con was first lit on 10 October 1789 along with . The stone-built jetty used to land materials still stands below a small store at Bewan.

The most advanced lighting

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meat is lean and the unique diet gives it a distinctive flavour, but the slow growth rate means that they must be kept for up to four years before slaughter.

Seaweed was also carted onto the land as fertiliser in large quantities, improving the already fertile land. Alginate is especially useful on South Bay beach with the Sheep Dyke in the background on sandy soils, helping water retention in dry spells. North Ronaldsay Sheep live on a diet of seaweed, plenty of which is available on the 19km of low coastline During the kelp boom in the At 42m it is still the highest North Ronaldsay Sheep The belonging to the Northern 18th and early 19th centuries, land-based lighthouse in the island is unique in being sur- short-tailed group which North Ronaldsay benefited British Isles. The slightly rounded by a drystone Sheep includes the Romanov and from having plenty of sea- incongruous red brick tower Dyke, about 1.5m high, and Finnish Landrace. Adult weed washed ashore on its dominates the island, its 19km (12 miles) long, built ewes weigh around 25kg. exposed beaches from the revolving beam sweeping about 1832 at the end of the and colour is variable, large kelp beds beneath its over the land as well as the kelp boom to keep the sheep including white, grey, black shallow surrounding seas. sea, to the benefit of night off the agricultural land. and moorit (brown), but var- Kelp-burning pits can still visitors and attracting The hardy North Ronaldsay ious combinations are seen. be seen at several places Typical North Ronaldsay croft with a flagstone roof migrating birds. In 1889, sheep live on a diet of sea- round the shore. the tower was painted with weed and some grass from Rams are horned but the mostly grassland, with hay Birds At the northeastern two white bands to distin- the links outside the dyke. ewes are usually polled. Many of the farmhouses are and silage for fodder, but extremity of Orkney, with guish it from Start Point During the lambing time the Because they are adapted to improved longhouses with some oats and bere are still open sea beyond towards lighthouse. The light was ewes are allowed onto grass a diet of seaweed, which is local flagstone roofs. In grown. In more modern and Norway, North changed to incandescent in for three or four months, low in minerals, the breed common with other parts of times there was an undershot Ronaldsay, like nearby Fair 1907, while a radio beacon while special sheep punds can be susceptible to copper Orkney, North Ronaldsay watermill at Haskie Taing Isle, is one of the prime bird- was added in 1932, and in around the shore are used for poisoning when fed exclu- steadings often had a kiln, (HY768533) which used watching sites in the Britain, 1971 further improvements clipping and dipping, which sively on grass. The but of an unusual square pat- water from Hooking Loch. especially during migration were made. The lighthouse is a communal activity. coloured fleeces are coarse tern as seen at Ancum, This was replaced by a new periods, when the numbers was finally automated on 30 but the white and moorit (HY764549), Cruesbreck mill in 1907 (HY763529), and variety of birds passing March 1998, one of the last The North Ronaldsay is a wool is almost as fine as that (HY763525) and near Nesstoun. The base of through can be quite spec- to be manned. fine boned, small sheep with of and is thus Stennabreck (HY771526). a windmill stands nearby. tacular. It is the site of a slightly dished face suitable for knitwear. The The agricultural land is Orkney’s only Bird Harvest time at Peckhole The New Mill at Nesstoun and the stump of a windmill Mini-woolmill at the New Lighthouse Processed North Ronaldsay wool

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peak of the autumn migra- where on the circumference, promote the provision of tion period, the latter part but will inevitably head for housing; to generally help to sometimes producing large the lighthouse! Shorter improve the quality of life on falls of thrushes. Rarities walks can take in parts of the the island by creating job often turn up if the prevail- shore and then cut across opportunities and attracting ing conditions are right. one of the many roads that people to the island either to come down to the gates in live and work or as The groceries come by plane! Robins, Bluethroats, the dyke. Though flat the tourists.” Whinchats, Wheatears, island has many good views The Trust has purchased the NORTH RONALDSAY Barred, Garden, Willow, and and walking allows plenty of lighthouse buildings which SERVICES North Ronaldsay Bird Observatory Yellow-browed Warblers became vacant when the and Chiffchaffs, are just a lighthouse was automated, Getting to North Ronaldsay by Observatory, established in backed Gull, as well as a few few of the species that are some of which have been Loganair from . The 1987, the main purpose of Bonxie and a colony of recorded in most years. Sea- converted into a mini-mill to island has special subsidised air which is to monitor the Cormorant on Seal . fares due to the lack of a daily car watching from the Old process the local wool. The migrations through, and Teal, Gadwall, Mallard and ferry Tel (01856) 872494. Orkney Beacon at Dennis Head can lighthouse is the only one in Ferries Access by sea is normally populations on, the island, Pochard breed on the lochs, be quite spectacular with Orkney with guided tours weekly, but there is also a Sunday by census complemented by and waders favour the trips in the summer Tel (01856) very large numbers of for visitors. Tours are avail- a bird ringing program. It is marshy areas. Eider, Tystie 872044. Fulmars, Guillemots, Satisfied golfers from USA able by arrangement with W. Where to Stay on North a migration crossroads for and Rock Pipit nest along Kittiwakes and Gannets Muir, the lighthouse keeper Ronaldsay Observatory Guest birds on passage to and from the shore, while Fulmar passing. Shearwaters (Manx time to savour them. Tel (01857) 633257. A shop House, solar and wind powered their breeding grounds in favour the bottom of the accommodation with bird watching and Sooty) are regularly Golf Course There is a and cafe for visitors to the Iceland, Greenland and Sheep Dyke. Meadow Pipit, and natural history activities seen in good numbers and nine-hole golf course on the lighthouse is open in the ***GUEST HOUSE Tel (01857) Scandinavia - northwards House Sparrow and Twite all four species of Skua are links facing Linklet Bay summer. 633200; Fax (01857) 633207 see from late March to early mingle around the small VisitOrkney or Islands of Orkney recorded in most years. which was created by the June, and southwards from crofts. A few Corncrake brochures Rarities such as Pallas’s Traills in the 1890s. Clubs The Trust publishes "The Shop & Fuel Airfield Good & mid-August to early also continue to breed here. Grasshopper Warbler, and balls may be borrowed Foghorn" which is sent out Services, Mrs H Swanney (01857) November. Several rarities Yellow-browed Bunting and from the “club hut” near to members. The Trust also 633220 appear every year, particu- The main spring migration is Car Hire T&C Muir, Garsi No1 Little Bustard have all South Gravity. bought and renovated the larly with east winds and in towards the end of April to Self drive, Taxis, tours (01857) passed through recently. New Kirk from the Church 633244 foggy weather. mid-May when Willow North Ronaldsay Trust of Scotland when the latter Warbler, Chiffchaff, Pied The variety of habitat and was set up in 2000 with the decided that it was no longer In addition to visitors the Flycatcher, Robin, Redstart, agricultural practice encour- stated objectives “to pre- viable as a place of worship. island has many breeding Wheatear, Whitethroat and age a diversity of plants and serve and restore the built It has already been the venue NORTH RONALDSAY species. There are breeding Red-backed Shrike may all the wild flowers are particu- and natural heritage of the for weddings and other ATTRACTIONS Arctic and Sandwich Tern, be seen. Late September larly beautiful on the island. island; to promote industry events. Great and Lesser Black- and early October is the Sheep Dyke - 19km long Both Grey and Common and commerce; to provide or Seal Skerry - Seals & Cormorants New Lighthouse - built 1854 North Ronaldsay is low and flat - the highest point is just 23m above sea level Seal are common round the Linklet Bay with Dennis Head in the background Old Beacon - built 1789 coast. Dennis Head - birds & whales Ancum Loch - waders & waterfowl Walks The island's lack of Golf Course - nine holes hills makes for easy walk- New Kirk - built 1843 Airfield - established 1968 ing. For the energetic the Old Kirk - built in early 1800s 19km (12 miles) circuit of Holland House - 18th century the shore outside the dyke Community Hall - new and old Hooking Loch - waders & waterfowl presents an interesting vari- The Stan Steen - the stone with the hole ety of shingle, sand, geos Bird Observatory - at the south end and structures old and new. Broch of Burrian - Iron Age The walk can be started any- South Bay - seals, birds & sheep

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