Life sciences Leaflets 19:788 –792, 2011. FREE DOWNLOAD ISSN 0976 - 1098

Published on: 1st September 2011 DIFFERENT SHADES DEVELOPED ON COTTON YARN FROM TINCTORIA Roxb. A.R. PATEL DEPARTMENT OF BIOSCIENCES, VEER NARMAD SOUTH GUJRAT UNIVERSITY, SURAT [email protected]

ABSTRACT: Cotton yarn dyed with the dry wood of Morinda tinctoria. Mordent was used as

Alum.CuSO4.FeSO4 and Myrobalan. Mordanting methods was adopted as Premordanting. Shades were obtained pink, dull pink and bright khakhi. Dyed specimens were tested for four fastness test. Observed good to very good rubbing and washing fastness, moderate to fair light fastness whereas perspiration fastness was poor to fair. KEY WORDS: Shade, cotton yarn and Morinda tinctoria. INTRODUCTION: During 1940 year people of Gujarat were obtained shades as black, red, yellow, green, blue, violate, red etc, from different part of the (Bambhadai, 1940) Morinda tinctoria is woody found in forest area of Gujarat, produces beautiful fragment white and edible . are black when ripe. Morinda sp. has Morindone colouring components (S.B. Gokhale et al. 2004. Tiwari et al. (2001) had tried the root of to dye cotton with mordant like

SnCl4, alum, CuSO4, SnCl2 and K2Cr2O7. They shades were obtained peach, purple, golden brown, dull yellow and dark brown. They fastness were observed good to excellent for washing and perspiration whereas very good rubbing fastness. Work lacks light fastness test. Bhuyan and Saikia (2004) had tried the root of Morinda angustifolia with alone as well as along with mordant as CuSO4, K2Cr2O7 and SnCl2. they dyed cotton, silk and wool with each mordant and none of mordant. They shades were obtained pink-brown, brown, pink and golden brown. Work lacks every fastness test. Tiwari and Vankar (2001) had tried the root of Morinda citrifolia to dye cotton using mordant as

SnCl4. they adopted microwave dyeing and Sonicator dyeing method. They shades were observed very deep reddish brown. They had tested fastness test. They observed similar fastness properties

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Life sciences Leaflets 19:788 –792, 2011. FREE DOWNLOAD ISSN 0976 - 1098 as very good washing, rubbing and perspiration fastness in both cases. Work lacks light fastness test. The present investigation has been emphasized to develop a process for the extraction of colouring materials from dry wood of Morinda tinctoria () by solvent extraction method. Studied application and fastness of dyed cotton yarn. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Material: Cotton yarn 72 hanks were used as textile material. Fresh extract of Antigonon leptopus was used as dyestuff.

Mordant: Vegetable mordant is Myrobalan and Mineral mordant are used as Alum, CuSO4,

FeSO4 and K2Cr2O7. Experimental method Extraction of the dye: Aqueous extract were prepared from fresh leaves of Antigonon leptopus was weighed and equal amount as that of textile material was taken. It was ground well and mixed with water. pH was adjusted nearly 8 to 9 for the best result. This is achieved by adding

Na2CO3. The ratio of textile material to dye material was maintained at 1:1 (w/w). Pretreatment of cotton yarn: Wetting oil (20g/l) used as castor oil. Yarn was soaked in this solution for 24 hours, then squeezed well and remove natural colorants water, dust and uncellulosic particles. Then the yarn was boiled in 2g/l solution of sodium bicarbonate for 2 hours. The pH of washing bath was nine. Yarn was thoroughly washed and dried in sunlight. Mordanting: Pre mordanting: Using mordant before the dyeing is known as Premordanting. All specimens have pre mordanting process. Dyeing: Pre-mordanted cotton yarn entered in dye bath at 60oC temperature, gradually increased o to 99 C for 30min.with continuous stirring. Dyeing pH was adjusted at 8 to 8.5 by Na2CO3. Remove the dyed specimen from a dye bath, dry it in shade. Aeration deepens the colour. Yarn is than washed with water followed by soap solution at 90oC for 15 min. to remove unfixed dye as well as hydrolyzed dye. Fabric was finally washed with water and dried in sunlight. Electrolytes and pH: NaCl was used as electrolyte at the concentration of 20 gm/liter. The quantity of twenty gram was added in two equal installments. First in the beginning and excess amount added after half period of dyeing. NaCl was used in four specimens only.

NaHCO3, Na2CO3 were used for pH adjustment. They were used in eight specimens. http://lifesciencesleaflets.ning.com/ PEER-REVIEWED Page | 789

Life sciences Leaflets 19:788 –792, 2011. FREE DOWNLOAD ISSN 0976 - 1098

Fastness Test: Rubbing fastness test of the dyed fabric was measured using Crock meter (AATCC, 1961). Washing fastness test of the dyed fabric was measured using Launder-O-meter (Trotman, 1970) (b).The Perspiration fastness of the given fabric was measured using Perspirometer (Trotman, 1975). Light fastness test is carried out in fade-o-meter (Trotman, 1970) (c). Assessed grade of Fastness (Trotman, 1970): Cc Grade: After completing the test, the tested sample and the control dyed specimen were kept side by side. Both the specimens than were compared with Cc grey scales. Visual assessment was made as to the fading of colour with reference to the control and standard grey scale. Cs Grade: After completing the test these samples were also compared with respective Cs grey scales to test the colour staining as above (Table: 3). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: The present work includes the dry root Morinda tinctoria tried to dye cotton yarn alone as well as along with mordant like alum, myrobalan, FeSO4 and CuSO4. Shades obtained were pink with none of mordant, also with Alum and FeSO4 mordant. dull pink shade obtained with

CuSO4 .bright khakhi shade developed with myrobalan(Table: 1). Fastness is increases in Cc (colour change) in compared to Cs (colour stain) in Rubbing and Washing fastness. Fastness of dry rubbing is increases in compared to wet rubbing. Very good to excellent fastness observed in (Cc) dry Rubbing fastness. Good to excellent fastness observed in (Cs) dry Rubbing fastness. Observed verygood fastness in (Cc) Wet rubbing fastness mostly. Observed good to excellent in Cs Wet rubbing fastness. Good to verygood (Cc) and fair to excellent (Cs) washing fastness. Acidic perspiration fastness observed poor to fair whereas alkaline perspiration fastness observed fair to good. Light fastness observed moderate to good. Fastness was increases in Alum and FeSO4 mordant in compared to other mordant. Separate mordanting increases fastness in compared to pre mordanting as well as electrolyte NaCl is increases fastness than NH4Cl (Table: 2). Fastness can improve by using the inorganic substance (Anila et al. 2006). CONCLUSION: Some of the herbal dyes were found to be monogenetic i.e. producing single shade with different mordants such as Morinda tinctoria. It is interesting to know that there is a great potentiality in developing herbs as source of textile dye but it would require great effort to improve the fastness characters of several dyes to bring them in to commercial exploitation. http://lifesciencesleaflets.ning.com/ PEER-REVIEWED Page | 790

Life sciences Leaflets 19:788 –792, 2011. FREE DOWNLOAD ISSN 0976 - 1098

REFERENCES: Bambhadai Gokuldas Khimaji(1940): Vanspatishrushti (in Gujarati). Navjeevan Press, Ahmedabad.

Tiwari Vandana, Ghaisas arti and Vankar padma S.( 2001): Improved dyeing of hosiery material and cotton fabric by sonicator with Al root bark. Asian Textile Journal vol. XLVIII (10) p.111.

Bhuyan R. and Saikia D.C.( 2004): Natural dyes: Present scenario in North East India. Colourage LI (5),p.27.

Tiwari vandana and Vankar Padma S.( 2001): Ecofriendly microwave and sonicator dyeing with natural dyes for hosiery material. Asian Textile Journal vol.XLVIII(8) p.82.

S.B.Gokhale, A.U.Tatiya, S.R.Bakliwal and R.A.Fursule(2004): yielding in India, vol.3(4)p.228,Natural Product Radiance.

Anila patel, M.N.Reddy & M.H.Parabia(2006): Improvement of perspiration fastness of some herbal dyes, vol. 53(4) p. 52, Colourage.

The American Association colour and chemist (AATCC) Technical Manual, p.8. 1961

Trotmen, E.R.( 1970 c): Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers, 4th ed., London. p.590.

Trotmen, E.R. 1970 b): Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers, 4th ed., London. p.596,597.

Trotmen, E.R.: Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers, 5th ed., Charles Griffin and Company LTD, London and High wycombe p. 626, 1975

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Life sciences Leaflets 19:788 –792, 2011. FREE DOWNLOAD ISSN 0976 - 1098

Table 1: Morinda tinctoria: Colour (Shades) Species Textile Used Mordant Colour Spe. material part No. Morinda Cotton yarn Dry Nil Pink 1 tinctoria Wood Alum Pink 2 Alum, NH4Cl Pink 3 FeSO4 Pink 4 CuSO4 Dull pink 5 Myrobalan Bright khakhi 6 Myrobalan, Khakhi 7 NH4Cl Myrobalan, Khakhi 8 Alum

Table 2: Morinda tinctoria: Fastness

Rubbing Washing Perspiration Light Spe. Dry Wet Acidic Alkaline No.

Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc 4 3 4 2-3 3-4 2-3 1 1 1-2 1-2 3 1 4-5 3-4 4 3 4 3 1 1 1-2 1-2 3-4 2 4 3-4 4 3 3-4 3 1 1-2 1 1 4 3 4-5 5 4 4-5 4 4-5 2 1-2 2-3 2-3 4 4 4 4 4 3 4 3-4 1 1-2 2 2 3-4 5 4 3 4 3 3-4 3 1 1-2 1-2 1-2 4 6

4 3 3-4 3 3-4 3 1-2 1 1-2 1-2 4 7

4 3-4 3-4 4 3-4 4 2 1-2 2-3 2-3 5 8

Table 3:Gradation of Rubbing, Washing &Perspiration Fastness Observation of tested Observation of Grade Qualitative White material tested No. Assessment Dyed material No stain No lighter 5 Excellent Slight stain Slight lighter 4 Very good Moderate stain Moderate lighter 3 Good Distinct stain Distinct lighter 2 Fair Very much stain Very much 1 Poor lighter

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