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NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY MAP COPYRIGHT ANTARCTIC (successor to "Antarctic News Bulletin) Vol. 11 Nos. 9 & 10 Issues 129 & 130

Contents

Polar Activities New Zealand 358 ANTARCTIC is published quarterly by the Australia 366, 395 New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., 1978. India 370 ISSN 0003-5327 Italy 371 Japan 376 Editor: Robin Ormerod 378 Sweden 379 Please address all editorial inquiries, con United States 380 tributions etc to the Editor, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington, New Zealand. Telephone: (04) 791-226 International International: + 64-4-791-226 Oil surveys 374* Fax: (04) 791-185 383 International +64-4-791-185 Treaty Inspections All administrative inquiries should go to General Bulletin "Co-ordinator", P.O. Box 1223, Tourism 389 Christchurch. Bahia Paraiso 391 Back and missing issues, P.O. Box 1223, Vinson Massif 393 Christchurch. Skiers at Pole 394 Dick Smith at Pole 395 Chapel built 396 Discovery restored 398 Society News 404

© No part of this publication may be reproduced Cover: An anenome found 15 metres beneath the in any way without the prior permission of the pub surface at Cape Armitage. See story pages 358 and lishers. 359. Photo: Dr Chris Battershill. 'Note: The second part of the minerals article appears in our next issue. See Vol. 11 No. 8 page 340. Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

NZARP Two part study yields clinical and environmental information

In a two part study New Zealand scientists have extended the search for new pharmaceutically useful chemicals to the Antarctic and gathered information which may have important implications for pharmaceutical development of anti-cancer drugs as well as initiating a monitoring programme for the Antarctic sea-floor ecosystem. The team, led by Drs John Blunt and Murray Munro, are from the Marine-Chemistry Group working at the Chemistry Department, University of Canterbury. Advantage was taken of the unique nature of the benthic (bottom) sea life beneath the ice around to pursue a number of novel investigations, which have included examination of the ecological aspects ofthe sponge community which characterises much of the benthos (bottom life) and the collection of samples of invertebrates for assessment of antiviral or antitumour activity.

Much of the benthic life in Antarctic waters tropical reef communities benthic organisms comprises diverse sponge communities which in the Antarctic are comparatively are stable over long periods of time. Individual competitively naive in that they are seldom sponges may live unchanged in size or shape attacked by natural marine viruses and for hundreds of years in the constant bacteria or experience competitive conditions of light and temperature. They are interactions. It has been found from work however sensitive to disturbance and are around New Zealand that those species which therefore ideal environmental indicators. possess the best chemicals in terms of In 1987 a team led by Dr Chris Battershill, pharmaceutical use are those which occur in a marine biologist, and comprising researchers densely encrusting communities where Greg Smith and Nic Nevin, accompanied by competition is rife. Without such competition Antarctic Division's diving supervisor Mr Antarctic invertebrates have no real need for Trevor Dick from Dunedin made a series of toxic chemicals. This finding is in marked dives over three weeks at Cape Armitage. contrast to about 40 percent of those species Two permanent quadrats of ten by ten metres taken from other waters. square were pegged out on the sea floor 25 This summer the research team led by Dr metres below the surface. The areas within Chris Battershill returned for a longer the quadrats were mapped and all the large expedition with Dr Nigel Perry, a chemist, invertebrates within them counted and researchers Reyn Naylor and Greg Smith and measured. Fifty gram samples were taken Rowan Strickland, the Antarctic Division from 35 species, (all but the rarest) and each diving supervisor for 1988 from the Water was photographed under water and in the Quality Division, MAF, Rotorua. laboratory. Colour and texture They planned to examine in detail how the were noted and any physiological peculiarities sponge communities at Cape Armitage may were recorded. Mapping results provided have originated and how their structure was baseline environmental data while the samples maintained as well as continuing the collection were sent to Christchurch for bioassay of anti- identification and chemical analyses of each tumour anti-viral activity. species. The reef in front of Scott Base, at As was expected very little bioactivity was Pram Point, a steeply sloping cliff plunging to recorded. Unlike species from temperate or over 150 metres was surveyed to provide 358 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

comparative data and more samples. predators chiefly starfish, urchins and three One hundred and twenty-nine dives were species of fish. Further permanent quadrats completed at five locations in order to survey were established. Sediment traps were the diversity of reef types in the area around installed to measure sedimentation rates, Ross Island. Most work was carried out at changes in which can disturb the sensitive Cape Armitage on the shallow sloping gravel sponge dominated reefs. These will enable reef in about 20 to 0 metres of water. A 1.5 other scientists in future to assess any changes. metre diameter hole was drilled by the By comparing last year's results, the Americans through two metres of ice after two scientists found that in general the overall metres of snow had been cleared from around stability of the communities were confirmed. the site to increase light penetration. The Unlike their temperate and tropical second major site below Scott Base at Pram counterparts the species appeared to have Point supported the richest benthic never been threatened by competitive community yet seen in . Strong overgrowth by neighbours or attacked by currents characterised the area and the predators. The hypothesis that they needed formation of pressure ridges close inshore no defensive chemicals, a finding which made access through the ice difficult. accounted for the apparent lack of bioactivity, Additional locations included Turtle Rocks was supported. This finding was subsequently directly adjacent to McMurdo Station and a tested by grafting small pieces of allogeneic dive through the Scott Base seawater intake tissue onto sponges. In most cases hosts hole to install a gauge. demonstrated an immune response evident The permanent quadrats set up at Cape in the production of toxic chemicals. Such Armitage in 1987 were rephotographed and production of bioactive chemicals by counts made of the abundance of benthic completely naive organisms is considered ANTARCTIC HERITAGE TRUST Field work, Ross Island, Antarctica 1989-90 As part of the Trust's ongoing building conservation programme applications are invited from interested persons to fill four vacancies during the 1989-90 summer season.

Applicants must demonstrate proven experience in building conservation, historical archaeology and museum science. Some experience in mountaineering, photography and architecture and also a knowledge of polar history would be desirable. Successful applicants must be physically and medically fit to work in Antarctica and be prepared to work as volunteers. They will be required to attend the pre-Antarctic Training Camp in August. Applications should be sent to the Antarctic Heritage Trust by 18 March, 1989: P.O. Box 13-247 Christchurch New Zealand

359 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10 important and has implications in research of invertebrates and fish are closely associated chemical models from marine natural with the sponge community and in turn products which may have use in support higher levels of the food chain. pharmaceutical development. The only conceivable threat to this Information on the ecology of Antarctic reef community is from man. Any human activity communities is also of significance to the which could possibly increase rates of whole Antarctic marine ecosystem but the sedimentation on the sea floor from land links between the benthic sponge communities runoff or blown dust for instance, would and the higher vertebrates, including marine probably have devastating effects on the reef mammals are poorly understood. ecosystem. High densities of mobile benthic Trackways and fossils help unravel geological history Arthropod track-ways on surfaces typical of a sandy ocean floor, plant fossils of the Devonian period, new exposures of Aztec siltstones and a 65 kilogram fragment of a nickel-iron meteorite found first by a party from Waikato University in 1978 were among the discoveries of a team comprising Margaret Bradshaw of Canterbury Museum, Fraka Harmsen, a New Zealander lecturing at the University of California, and Martin Kirkbride from the University of Canterbury. They were working on the 400 million year old Devonian sediments of the otherwise unfossiliferous lower Beacon Supergroup in the Darwin Mountains, Cook Mountains and Britannia Range of southern for seven weeks of the season. Ray Waters, an Antarctic Division field leader accompanied the party which travelled some 510 kilometers with two Grizzley toboggans and four sledges, visited 13 localities and measured nearly five kilometers of geological section.

The objective of the expedition was to working in the area, was successfully put into extend knowledge of the Devonian trace the field at a site on the Darwin Glacier fossils of the Taylor Group in the Darwin between Collosseum Ridge and Richardson Glacier area and relate them to earlier work Hill with 3,803 kilograms of equipment at in the Dry Valley region and to use the trace 3pm local time. Working from the south-west fossils for sedimentological analysis for to the north-east across the Darwin the team developing models for the palaeoenvironment encountered a heavily crevassed area. Rising of the Taylor Group. Collection of the wind and blowing snow pinned them down Devonian fossil fish from new and observed for a day before they were able to backtrack localities on the edge of the Polar Plateau was and make camp close to Colosseum Ridge. abandoned because weather conditions They worked on the Hatherton Sandstone for delayed the party's departure from the Darwin five days finding good trace fossils, repairing glacier area prior to a put in at the new sledges damaged during their attempted location. crossing of the glacier and adding ice cleats A preliminary C-130 aerial reconniasance to the toboggans for safety. of the Darwin area on November 9 was The Darwin was successfully crossed further abandoned when the aircraft encountered up on the 26 and 27 of November the last hazy conditions over the proposed landing five kilometers before Tentacle Ridge being site. The following day a reconnaisance of the hard blue ice. Detailed sections of 1000 Darwin Glacier was successfully completed metres were measured from the basal contact and six days later the party, with another on Tentacle Ridge to the top of the Hatherton 360 Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Fraka Harmson and Martin Kirkbride at work on the Junction sandstones near Junction Spur in the early hours of the morning. The Darwin and Hallerton Glaciers can be seen in the distance. Photo: Margaret Bradshaw. sandstone on Gorgon's Head; a peak near Mt that rests directly on the basement. Hughes on the other side of the Minerva On December 8 they crossed the Darwin Glacier from Tentacle Ridge. During a trip Glacier again and travelled up the blue ice of taking nearly 24 hours members of the party the to near Junction Spur made a traverse of 16km and climbed and where a C130 returning from the descended 2,520 metres to reach the top of dropped fresh vegetables, bread and mail on Gorgon's Head where they found plant fossils December 9. Continuing up the Hatherton to provisionally identified as Haplostigma, rare the McCraw Glacier they measured extensive in the Beacon sequences and indicating geological sections on Derrick Peak in the middle Devonian age. The fossils occurred in Onnum Valley and on Sabrina Ridge, their a sandstone unit devoid of trace-fossils and work interrupted for several days by whiteout that had been correlated with the Beacon and snow. Heights Orthoquartzites further north. The While on Derrick Peak Ray Waters found plant bearing sandstones were found to be a large fragment of the meteorite first discov overlain by Aztec siltstones, making these ered in 1978 and the party set about devising outcrops the most southerly known of the a method of retrieving it. Weighing 65kg it formation. proved too heavy for a rucksack and returning Returning to the put-in site on December to camp they cut a damaged sledge runner 4 the party repaired further damage to a in two and returned to the peak with a cradle sledge runner and repacked their equipment made from a fuel drum, leather lashings and before setting out the next day on a route ropes. In a two part journey it was carried which took them obliquely down the Darwin along the rocky ridge and down gravel slopes glacier to Roadend Nunatak where work was to the glacier where a route was chosen across undertaken on the Brown Hills Conglomerate a series of frozen lakes through morraine to Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Camp near Junction Spur en route to the Hatherton Glacier. The first air drop was made near here. Photo: Margaret Bradshaw. the Hatherton Glacier. The retrieval was pickup the parties working in the area made halted by bad weather for several days and their way independently down the glacier to the final return to the camp took over nine Roadend Nunatak. Before the museum party hours. The fragment was loaded onto the left, work was completed on Colosseum back of a toboggan for the rest of the trip Ridge and in Island Arena after which they before being flown to Scott Base and waited for a flight on December 31. By the subsequently loaded onto the Green wave for time the aircraft arrived, the weather had the trip back to Christchurch where it will be again deteriorated and the party spent an on display at Canterbury Museum. unscheduled New Year in the field with an Working their way back down the ascent of Mulgrew Nunatak before a Hercules Hatherton on December 20, three days before arrived on January 5 to return both groups their planned pickup, two windshields were to Scott Base. lost in a local blizzard before they camped near Information from the sediments will now be Junction Spur. The next day, from the ridge used to determine whether the environment above the camp they watched a Hercules during deposition abotu 400 million years ago abandon an attempt to pick up the other field was marine, non-marine or a combination of party when a crevasse was found on the drag the two. Preliminary findings from the Taylor run. Two days later they travelled 49km Group in the Darwin Glacier area are indica- arriving at the put-in point on December 23 tive of a braided river coastal plain within a in whiteout conditions, but the next day the rapidly subsiding basin into which there were weather cleared for a special airdrop of fresh short-lived marine incursions followed by pro- chicken, vegetables, cake, wine and mail and longed shallow marine conditions, before an pudding that provided supplies for the abrupt reversion to fluvial conditions. Christmas that should have been spent at In the lower most sediments (Junction Scott Base. Sandstone) the party found shallow channels As two locations had proved unsuitable for up to 20 metres wide which they have Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic interpreted as braided stream sediments with hummocky cross stratification. Trace fossils paleocurrents towards the east. Trace fossils are very common, including horizontal left by animals whose bodies have not been (Beaconites) and vertical burrows, (Skolithos), preserved were rare, but dense vertical and a variety of arthropod trackways. The burrows in several well-defined horizons abrupt disappearance of all indications of (identified as Skolithos were observed) animal life in the plant bearing (Haplostigma) suggesting short lived marine incursion. Beacon Heights Orthoquartzite and the The Hatherton Sandstone contains many overlying Aztec Siltstone suggests a return to features that suggest shallow marine deposi fluviatile conditions after the deposition of the tion, including bimodal cross-bedding and Hatherton Sandstone. Supplies for Scott Base Nearly 80 tonnes of food, equipment and and 400kg of fish. Mrs Phillips has also machinery were included in the 478 tonnes provided for 500 litres of ice-cream, 700kg of cargo which the United States supply ship of French fries and 42.5kg of macaroni elbow. Greenwave took south from Lyttelton when Like any household or hotel Scott Base has she sailed for McMurdo Station on January dishes to wash so the cargo includes about 30. The ship also carried other cargo loaded 12kg of soap powder. For transport in the field at Port Hueneme before she left California. and at the base the Greenwave carried four In the eight New Zealand containers was Canadian-built Bombardier motor toboggans more than eight tonnes of food for the winter worth $NZ12,000 each, a front-end loader team of ten men and two women and another and three new trucks. 220 people during the summer season. Mrs Helen Phillips, the Antarctic Division's Field equipment, some clothing, barrels of purchasing officer, went to Scott Base last anti-freeze, and alcohol for laboratory and year to prepare for her shopping list which field use were also in the containers. Scientists contains enough food to last until February and support staff can't escape paper work. next year. One the menu are 3560kg of meat, Their needs will be met with the help of 3120kg of frozen vegetables, 600kg of poultry 100,000 sheets of photo-copying paper. Information officer breaks leg Scott base finished the second half of the cutting its way towards Winter Quarters season without its regular information Bay. Some ofthe party were skiing to the officer. Ms Yvonne Mulder went south in bottom of the hill when one clipped skis October and had to be flown to with another, lost control and ran into Ms Christchurch on January 5 for orthopaedic Mulder who was waiting to photograph treatment after she broke her right leg in them. two places the day before when she was After the accident Ms Mulder was driven knocked over by a skier at . to McMurdo Station medical centre for She was replaced by Janet Bertaud, treatment. She spent the night there and who went south on January 9. Janet last went to Scott Base on January 5 to visited Scott Base as part of a team from prepare for departure. In the early hours Television New Zealand in 1987/88. of January 6 she was admitted to Yvonne Mulder had been in a party of Christchurch Hospital for the orthopaedic ten who went to Castle Rock about two treatment advised by the medical officer kilometers from the Scott Base to watch at McMurdo Station. the US Coast Guard Polar Sea

363 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Iceberg B-9: update The supergiant iceberg, B-9, which broke away from the in October 1987, has now drifted over 100 kilometres around the eastern . At 154 kilometres long when it was formed, the berg was one of the longest on record. Its formation and drift have produced new data on how icebergs are formed and on the currents in the Ross Sea.

The creation of B-9 was a natural event. that a huge current gyre exists in the Ross Sea. It broke off the eastern part of the ice shelf, By studying such a large, easily visible the northern margin of which was probably iceberg sdentists can learn where icebergs drift further north than it had been this century. and examine their behaviour. This will help Very few icebergs had broken off this part of in predicting how possible mineral activities the shelf over the last few decades, despite in the region could be threatened by icebergs. the continual flow and advance of the ice in More immediately the formation of B-9 the area. The break could therefore be throws more light on how large icebergs are regarded as being overdue. created and the mechanisms through which B-9's shape was mostly delineated by ice shelves, and the Antarctic ice sheet, lose weaknesses in the ice shelf as revealed by mass. Such knowledge is important because mapping as early as 1971. A huge rift 100 the ice sheet exerts a major control over kilometres long, and up to 5 kilometres wide processes affecting the world's climate and sea and extending mostly through the 300 metre levels. floating shelf, formed about 75 percent of the southern side of what became B-9. Further Information on currents rifting, probably caused originally by ice The drift is giving information on currents movement, with some contribution from which are important for several reasons. They currents flowing under the ice shelf, is the influence the annual freezing of the sea likely cause of B-9's birth in 1987. around Antarctica and sea ice drift and melt. Still south of 75 deg Currents also affect the marine ecosystem After 15 months, B-9 is still south of latitude including krill, whales and penguins by 75 deg S in the cold waters of the Antarctic influencing food availability, habitat and continental shelf. In cold water, icebergs decay breeding success. Currents in Ross Sea affect the rates of by splitting apart or fracturing around the sides; however B-9 has not changed much melting or ice accumulation at the base of the so far and is still about 140 kilometres long. Ross Ice Shelf and may play a part in Antarctic icebergs finally melt when they drift mechanisms by which the greenhouse effect into warmer waters north of the , could influence the Antarctic. between latitudes 68 to 45 deg S. Because (Antarctic thanks Dr Harry Keys of the Department of Conservation in Wellington B-9 is still south of such waters and because for this article and acknowledges the US its drift path is not easily predictable, it may Navy/NOAA Joint Ice Center in Maryland for take several years to reach them. supplying position data for B-9.) Complex drift Since it formed, B-9 has drifted slowly but The drift of B-9 in the Ross Sea, Antarctica in a complex manner. It has been pushed at from October, 1987 to late December 1988 an average speed of about 2.5km/day by a during which time it followed a circular course succession of ocean currents. Between late almost 100km across. — Bathymetry after June and mid-December 1988 it followed an Davey and Cooper. *' J. R. Keys, Department of almost circular course, over 100 kilometres Conservation, Wellington, New Zealand. across. This may be the first overall evidence 364 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

365 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

ANARE "Aurora Australis" due in service late 1989 Construction of Australia's first flagged and built icebreaker began officially on 28 October 1988 and the vessel to be called "Aurora Australia" should enter service in December 1989 with a complement of 133 persons, including crew. Named from a national competition after Sir 's "Aurora" the $124 million vessel is designed to meet the key Australian requirements of base resupply and marine cruising. With a range of 25,000 nautical miles and minimum endurance of 90 days the ships design incorporates the latest technology developed for operating in ice conditions.

In July 1986 Australia's Antarctic Division UMS, Ice Class IA Super, DP(CM), Special personnel formulated a set of characteristics Purpose Ship, and will comply with the for the ship they sought. These led to a Canadian Arctic Ship Pollution Prevention conceptual design and over 100 submissions Regulations Arctic Class 2 and Arctic Class from Canada, , Finland, , 3 hull strength in the bow and stern. Her main United Kingdon, Japan, Denmark and engines will have a 10,000kw capacity Australia to build or adapt existing vessels. enabling the ship to cruise at 13 knots and to On 16 December 1987 the Government navigate in 10/10th pack ice breaking an announced its intention to enter into detailed equivalent of 1.23 metres of first year level contract negotiations with P & O Polar (a joint ice, of 500kg Pa flexural strength at 2.5 knots venture of P & O Australia Ltd and Polar continuously. Schiffahrts Consulting GmbH of the Federal Marine science Republic of Germany). P & O Australia is the For marine science purposes the Norwegian major partner with a Finnish Comapny Simrad Subsea system, trialled in 1988 and Wartsila Marine contracted to complete a commercially available in 1989, will be detailed design of the vessel and provide installed allowing comprehensive technical assistance to the selected shipyard. hydroacoustic surveying. The system Wartsila Marine, is one of the largest incorporates hydrographic sounders, trawl shipbuilders in Europe with over 60 percent surveillance sonar, scanning sonar, echo of the world's to their credit and sounders for the estimation of krill and fish with 33 new ships in their order book when biomass and split beam transducers to allow the Australian government made its decision. target strength analysis and comprehensive hydroacoustic surveying. It will allow scientists Work begins to assess stocks of important organisms such An agreement with the Government to as krill in the . enter a ten year charter arrangement with the The output of oceanographic, meteoro ship's owners P & O Polar was subsequently logical and hydroacoustic instruments will be reached and, soon after, work began on the logged on a central data system. A second icebreaker at Carrington Slipways Pty Ltd of computer system with terminals throughout Newcastle. the ship will allow onboard data processing. The vessel will be 94.8 metres in length with A wet laboratory for processing net a beam of 20.3 metres, a draught of 7.65 samples, a hydrogaphic laboratory, fish metres and a displacement of 7800 tonnes. freezer, meteorological laboratory and five She will be classified under the Lloyd Register multi purpose laboratories will be permanent of Shipping with a notation of M/3l00AI, features and provision has been made for 366 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 eight container laboratories to be installed as be used to transport cargo from the forward required. Four can be placed in between to the aft helicopter deck for aerial resupply deck, and two each on the heli and aft decks. operations. She will have a tank capacity of All laboratories will have hot and cold fresh one megalitre for fuelling stations. water, uncontaminated sea water,compressed Ship turnaround will be speeded up by the air, a stabilised electricity supply and data lines use of two medium left Seahawk type to the computer. helicopters which can be located in the hangar Trawling operations with commercial sized and used for cargo and passenger uplift to nets will be possible using a winch controlled stations. system suplied by Hydraulic Brattvaag of Up to 70 expeditioners will be Norway. The vessel will be capable of bottom accommodated in self contained three and trawling in depths of up to about 1000 metres four berth cabins designed to meet the special and other trawls requiring up to 35 metre needs of scientists. Cafeteria style catering and headline length. A zooplankton sampling recreational facilities will be available to all. A passenger on Aurora Australis's first system designed to enable use of instrumental packages will also be available and a voyage to Antarctica will be twelve year old Brett Webb of Jindabyne, winner of the photographic dark room, a gravity metre national competiton to name the vessel. One compartment and scientific workshop will installed. hundred and eight of the 2000 competitors "Aurora Australis" will be able to transport chose 'Aurora Australis' but Brett won because of the quality of the explanation of 1700 cubic metres of general cargo and 40 containers. Two or three cranes and two his choice which was required as part of the forklifts will be available for cargo operations. competition. A forward 25 tonne crame will be able to Aurora Australis — artists impression — P& discharge over the bow and the forklifts will O Australia Pty Ltd. Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Hobart to Casey flight by Twin Otter Australian electronics millionaire and pilot ice overlain in places by up to 5 cm of snow. Dick Smith postponed his plans to fly a Bell Emergency facilities included oversnow vehi Jetranger helicopter from an Australian An cles equipped with fire extinguishing equip tarctic base across Antarctica and chose in ment, cooking, toilet and sleeping stead to fly a wheeled Twin Otter 1850nm accommodation for six, radio equipment, a (3247km) to in November. windsock and electric power from a mobile With him was the noted polar pilot, Captain generating unit. Giles Kershaw, who was on leave from No problems Cathay Pacific Airways in Hong Kong. The flight was completed without trouble Recently the Australian Geographic Soci and only a slight deviation for bad weather. ety bought the Twin Otter for its world-wide Appropriately the aircraft was registered VH- documentary film-making programme. As SHW in recognition of Sir Hubert Wilkins, founder of the Society, Dick Smith made the who pioneered aviation in Antarctica. aircraft available to the Australian Antarctic Di During the next day Robert Tomar, from vision to support its research programme in the Canadian company Bradley Air Services November of the 1988-89 season. fitted the skis to the Twin Otter for the rest Originally the flight was planned for of the programme. On November 8 Smith November 1 after the arrival at Casey of the and Kershaw departed for Davis, via Edg Australian National Antarctic Expeditions eworth Davis, a small base unoccupied this (ANARE) Icebird. Departure was delayed un season. til 5 p.m. on November 5 because Icebird, ex pected at Casey on October 23, was hit by Help enlisted a hurricane about 259nm south-west of Icebird, now on her way to Davis encoun Hobart only 43 hours after her departure. In tered heavy pack ice 200 nm north of the sta the storm, during which the ship was pitch tion on November 9. She was too far away ing up to 50 degrees, one of the four char for the helicopters to transfer personnel and tered helicopters in the hold broke loose and cargo and so the Twin Otter was enlisted. Helicopters from the ship were used to find severely damaged the other three. a suitable landing strip and they located a site 8 nm south of the ship. It was about 300 Icebird turned back metres wide, 600m long and about 1 metre Icebird was forced to turn back for Hobart thick, in the middle of an ice-floe over water on the night of October 14. Her cargo includ 2,500 metres deep. ed skis which were to be fitted to the Twin Snow ridges of 30 cm posed some doubts Otter at Casey and other equipment which as to its suitability and problems of visibility helped minimize the load for the flight. in the mild whiteout conditions were over Fitted with ferry tanks the Twin Otter can come with piles of cocoa deposited every 50 carry enough fuel to extend its range to metres along the runway. 2500nm. The flight, which took 14 hours, was the first ever attempted from Australia to Australian media were told that Dick its Antarctic Territory. ; Smith was the first to land an aircraft on A small bare ice-field 6 km east of the sta an ice floe in Australian Antarctic terri tion was marked out by base staff. The run tory. But Australian pilots have done way as 1.5 km long and 30 metres wide with this before, and Soviet pilots have land a further 30 metres of graded strip on each ed aircraft on sea ice to relieve bases in side. Surface conditions were solid blue territory claimed by Australia. 368 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

Whiteout conditions persisted and as the in the Heritage Range area of the Ellsworth aircraft approached the ice-floe smoke Mountains operated by Adventure Network cannisters were released to indicate wind International. speed and direction and expeditioners stood Next Smith and Kershaw planned to land about 50 metres apart to enhance perception the Twin Otter on the black volcanic scoria of the runway. beach of in the South About mid-day the aircraft made a visual Shetlands off the Antarctic Peninsula. This check from about ten metres and two drags landing was intended to commemorate the with its skis lightly touching the bumpy 60th anniversary of the first aircraft in flight surface. The tracks were inspected by the in Antarctica by the Australian explorer, Sir expeditioners and as no cracks were found Hubert Wilkins. On 16 November 1928, the strip was declared fit for use and the Wilkins and his Canadian pilot Ben Eielson aircraft landed in 150 m. took off in one of the expedition's two Vega aircraft from the beach of the still active Passengers and freight were ferried from the ship by helicopter and from the strip to volcanic island. Most Antarctic chronologies, Davis by Twin Otter. It made six flights over however, list the first flight as being made on two days to complete the transfer of 30 December 20. Wilkins and Eielson were in the air for ten hours and covered 1042 nm across expeditioners and 3.5 tonnes of freight. The Twin Otter was then used for the Palmer Peninsula and along its east cost. From Deception Island the Twin Otter was glaciological work over a wide area of the flown to North America to be in a position polar plateau near the Amery Iceshelf and the from which Dick Smith can make a flight from . Operating out of Davis radar Point Barrow to the Spitsbergen Archipelago equipment was used to record the glacier's top in the northern spring. This will commemorate and under surfaces and to collect data which the first trans-Arctic flight made in April 1928 will help ascertain the nature and extent of by Wilkins and Eielson in the same Lockheed glacial flow. Seasonal counting of crabeater seals was Vega they were to fly in the Antarctic nearly eight months later. The flight of 2778 nm was also undertaken from the Twin Otter before made north-eastwards across the Arctic it flew onto Mawson. There Icebird managed Ocean. to anchor adjacent to the fast ice within 39 nm of the station. Although the helicopters Australian Director ferried the bulk of resupply and expeditioners they were assisted by the Twin Otter which resigns carried 3 tonnes of cargo from the ice next After nearly five years as director of Australia's to the ship to the station. Antarctic Division Mr James Bleasel has ANARE staff and five tonnes of cargo was resigned rather than accept a transfer from also flown inland to the Prince Charles Kingston, near Hobart, to the position of First Mountains where a new summer station was Assistant Secretary in the Department of Arts, being established at Farley Massif in the Sport, the Environment, Tourism and northern part of the range. The station has Territories in Canberra. His resignation been named after Robert Dovers, leader of became effective on December 3 last year. the winter party that established and operated Mr Bleasel, formerly director of the National , the first Australian Antarctic Materials Handling Bureau in Sydney, took Base, almost 36 years ago. Geological survey over as acting director of the division on teams worked from Dovers this season. February 20,1984, when Mr Clarrie McCue, Having completed its work the Twin Otter who had been director for five years, was left again for Casey on November 20. appointed special adviser on Antarctic matters Subsequently Smith and Kershaw flew it to the Secretary of the Department of Science across Antarctica. They went first to the Soviet and Technology in Canberra. Mr Bleasel Vostock Station for refuelling. The next stage spent nine years with the National Materials was over the South Pole to the private base Continued on page 395 369 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

India New base to be centre for Indian research India, which has had a research station in since the 1981-82 season, built a new permanent station this summer in the Schirmacher Hills. Maitree Station is about 80km inland from the present station, Dakskin Gangotri at 70deg 05min S/12degE on the Princess Astrid Coast, and will be the main base for ail expeditions engaged in future exploration and research. When geologists of the the third Indian 1988 included the continuation of a ground expedition mapped the Schirmacher Hills and geological survey covering approximately renamed them Hills an 1000 square km in the Humbolt Massif of the announcement that an area of 200 square Wohlthat Mountains; an airborne magnetic kilometres had been earmarked for extension survey over the Gruber Massif and the low of the original station in future seasons gave snow-bound area lying between the the impression that the station was in the hills Schirmacher and Wohlthat ranges and about 18.5km from the Soviet station collections of samples for subsequent Novolazarevskaya. Dakshin Gangotri, investigation. Ozone studies were intensified however, was built on the ice shelf about with additional programmes and the network 15km southwest of Indian Bay, an area of for the collection and observation of coastal water through which the first meteorological and upper atmospheric expedition landed. phenomena was extended to the Schirmacher and Wohlthat mountain ranges. Shipboard "Friendship" programmes continued to focus on the Maitree (Friendship in Hindi) consists of distribution, abundance and variability of living three cottages located in a sheltered rocky organisms, particularly krill, squid and fish. valley adjoining a snowfed lake. The cottages The evolution, cold acclimatisation are two storeyed and can comfortably mechanisms, physiology, energy fluxes, food accommodate 20 people. Hat ground nearby chain dynamics and biomass production in has been converted into helipads for glacial limnetic, oasis and littoral ecosystems expedition helicopters operated by the Indian of Antarctica were also studied. Navy and Air Force. When India's seventh expedition sailed on March 1988 for Normugao, the port of Goa, after 70 days in Antarctica, it left behind the foundations and pillars ofthe new Maitree Station, which has been designed by the Defence by the Defence Research and Development Organisation. DRDO has been associated with the research programme since the first expedition, testing clothing, footwear, tents, field equipment, food, and other essential materials. It installed an accommodation complex at Dakshin Gangotri during the third expedition, and with India Army engineers was responsible for new construction and supervision at Maitree this summer. Map indicating approximate position Scientific programmes undertaken during Indian Antarctic activities. 370 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

Italy: Baia Terra Nova Italians charter new ship: more helicopters Italy's fourth expedition to the sailed from Lyttelton on December 2 for Terra Nova Bay aboard the chartered cargo ship Barken. The Swedish-owned ice-strengthened Barken called at Hobart on November 22 and arrived at Lyttelton on November 28. She took 130 scientists, support staff, technicians, and mountain guides south and returned to Lyttelton about March 1, 1989. In the 1987-88 season the third expedition communication terminal operating in the concentrated on the extension and improve INMARSAT marine satellite network. This ment of Terra Nova Bay Station. The base provides facilities for telex, telephone and was established by the 1986-87 expedition facsimile traffic. For a wider use of VHF along the coast of the Northern Foothills of communication one repeater unit has been Victoria Land, north-east of Gerlach Inlet at placed on Mount Melbourne. 74deg 42min S/164deg 07min E. An area for helicopter landing and takeoff This season the fourth expedition again is situated 70m from the main building. It is carried out a wide range of research projects 12m square with a plank deck supported and from field camps in the Terra Nova Bay area surrounded by an area paved with freestones. with helicopter support. It also undertook a For safety reasons the fuel storage area is programme of , cosmophysics 300m from the main buildings. About and radiation, and environmental monitoring, 250,000 litres of diesel, jet kerosene, and using four prefabricated huts which have been petrol are stored in drums. located some distance from the main station Manager of the Antarctic Project and leader building. of the expedition was Dr Mario Zucchelli. He Summer station held the same position last season and is in charge of operations for ENEA, the Agency Baia Terra Nova has been designed as a for Research in Energy, which set up the summer station to accommodate research Antarctic Project to carry out the research staff and equipment, and as a support centre for all scientists working from field camps in programmes, and is responsible for the surrounding areas. It consists of a main management and administration of building and two smaller buildings (power expeditions, and the co-ordination of scientific station and workshop) with a surface area of activities, including co-operative programmes about 630 square metres. with New Zealand and the United States. Located in the main building, which is 42m Marine operations by 14m, are two rows of 17 modules. Twelve Responsible for marine operations on the of these provide sleeping accommodation ENEA management staff this summer was normally for 24 people and up to 48 by using Rear-Admiral Alberto Tartarini, Ministry of all four berths in each module. One module Defence representative on the inter-ministerial contains the desalination unit which can committee for Antarctica. Last season he was produce 7.2 tonnes of fresh water daily, using also the Antarctic Project representative on the the reverse osmosis system. On the east side chartered Norwegian research vessel Polar of the coast two small coves are used for the Queen which was used by the Italian Navy's sea water intake and effluent discharge. Hydrographic Institute for an oceanographic One module contains the radio communi programme in Terra Nova Bay and the Ross cation equipment. The station has a satellite Sea. 371 Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Once again air support for the Italian Lundrigan. Ten years later she was renamed programme was given by Helicopters (NZ) A. C. Crosbie. Later in 1982 she became the Ltd, of Nelson. For the fourth summer the Barken and kept the name until 1987 when company has provided four helicopters — a it was changed to Baltwind. This year she is twin-engined Bell 212 and three French back to Barken. Aerospatiale 350B Squirrels. Her owners are a shipping company in the Leader of the helicopter team was the industrial town and port of Karlstad and she company's chief pilot Jim Wilson. With him is operated by its Dutch subsidiary company was the operations manager, Andrew Brown, Ahlmarco BV. Karlstad is on the northern who was also a pilot. There were six other shore of Lake Varner, which is Sweden's pilots, Reg Ellwood, Ken Tustin, Alfie largest lake, and is linked with the Kattegat Speight, Don Andrew, Tim Douglas-Clifford and the Baltic by the Gota Canal system. and David Henley, and two engineers, Mike Eight New Zealanders worked in the Terra Jackson and Duncan Atkinson. Nova Bay area late in the season with Italian Last summer the Italians chartered ships support. A request for helicopter support for from Finland and Norway. This season they three groups was made to the Italians by the obtained the Barken (6850 tonnes) which was Antarctic Division DSIR. The groups are: Drs built at Dundee in 1972 as a Baltic newsprint Colin Meurk and David Given, DSIR Botany pulp and paper carrier. She is an ice- strengthened general cargo vessel 122.6m The Italian base Baia Tenra Nova from two different long with a draught of 3.3m and has a 1A angles. The base has been used for summer ice rating. operations since 1986-1987 and will be occupied Since 1972 the Barken has changed name during the winter of 1989-90. — Photos: Colin and ownership. She began service as the Ida Muerk.

Illllll Hill! IP

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iflK Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Division (Christchurch), and Dr Martin Foggo, of Auckland; Mr Bob Thomson, former Central Institute of Technology (Wellington); director, Antarctic Division, Dr John Hay and Professor Rufus Wells and Dr John Simon Towle, Environmental Science Macdonald, Zoology Department, University Department, University of Auckland.

Logistical contribution and air strip?

Italy may contribute in the 1989-90 season to the NSF and the Naval Support Force, to the joint US-NZ logistic pool of aircraft Antarctica, and in October Lieutenant- which fly between Christchurch and McMurdo Colonel Gino Proner, who commands an IAF Station each summer to support the two Hercules squadron, and Major Sebastiano countries' research programmes. The aircraft Vecchi (technical officer) spent two days at would come from an Italian Air Froce McMurdo Station. There they discussed Hercules squadron. Hercules operations in Antarctica and In the early 1990s Italy plans to occupy technical problems with NSFA representatives Baia Terra Nova in winter and summer. and the Navy's VXE-6 Squadron which Eventually the possibility of putting in its own operates ski-equipped Hercules for NSF. in the region may be considered No decisions will be made until 1989. Any to meet the demand for increased logistic proposals will have to be considered first by support. NSF and ENEA, and the Italian Ministry of Preliminary approaches have been made Defence and the US Defence Department. Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Antarctic Oil Italy and Japan continue seismic surveys

Italy and Japan both conducted marine geophysical surveys in Antarctica last sea son to investigate the geological structure of the continent and obtain information about its hydrocarbon potential. The Italians worked in the Ross Sea from the 978-tonne seismic survey ship Explora, now owned by the Geophysical Experimental Observatory (OGS), of Trieste; once again the Japanese used the geological survey vessel Hakurei-Maru, this time between 50deg W and 65deg W in Bransfield Strait. In the 1987-88 season OGS scientists second leg of the cruise. This time the ship's took part in a cruise of about 5935 nautical comlement was increased by one — an Italian miles from the vicinity of South American journalist. along the Antarctic ice edge as far as the Ross Planned to last 90 days, the second leg of Sea. They also completed a deep crustal the cruise included a visit to the Italian base exploration profile of about 540nm in the Ross in Terra Nova where the fourth expedition Sea. was at work. From Terra Nova Bay the Last season's survey covered about Explora turned north for Lyttelton where she 5000nm and was conducted in two legs, the arrived on March 2 or 3. The scientists flew first of 1505nm in the Balleny Islands area, back to Italy and the ship followed later. and the second deeper in the Ross Sea over Since the 1980-81 summer the Japanese 3495nm. The research programme included have made a series of marine geophysical gravimetric, geomagnetic reflection seismic surveys in Antarctica. They have always used profiles, and three crustal profiles were the Japanese Metal Mining Agency's performed, one being linked to the mainland geological research vessel Hakurei-Maru and by measurements made in co-operation with the programmes have been conducted by the scientists of the West German GANOVEX IV technology research centre of the Japan expedition to Victoria Land. National Oil Corporation for the Agency of Commanded by Captain Silvio Valles, the Natural Resources and Energy, a division of Explora with a crew of 18 and 19 scientists the Ministry of International Trade and led by Dr Daniel Nieto, sailed from Trieste on Energy. October 18 last year for Hobart where she In the 1980-81 season the Hakurei-Maru, arrived on November 6. She sailed for Ross which has a range of 15,000nm, worked in Sea on November 11. the Bellingshausen Sea. She moved to the During the 34 days the Explora was on the (1981-82) and then to the Ross first leg of the cruise she encountered gale Sea (1982-83). In 1983-84 she worked off force winds of 41 to 47 knots and waves from , then off eight to 15 metres high. Because of the (1984-85), off Queen Maud Land (1985-86), thickness of the pack ice the ship was unable in the Amundsen Sea (1986-87) and off the to penetrate as far south as intended. (1987-88). On January 8 the Explora arrived at For the Bransfield Strait programme a team Dunedin to refuel and take on suplies. of 18 scientists led by the chief scientist, Dr Scientists and crew had a brief respite from Morishima Hiroshi (geologist) and his deputy ice and stormy weather until January 12 when Mr Tsumuraya Yuji (geophysicist), carried out the ship sailed for the Ross Sea to begin the seismic reflection and refraction surveys, 374 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

depth sounding, geomagnetic and gravity of Tokyo, in late November for Papeete when surveys, bottom samplings, and terrestrial heat she arrived on December 12. On December flow measurements. 16 she sailed direct to the research area, and Under the command of Captain Okumura returned to Valparaiso on January 31. She Hideaki and with 34 officers and men, the sailed again for Funabashi on February 4, Hakurei-Maru departed from Funabashi, east arriving home in the first week of March.

30* 0* 30* \ South Sandwichls. <*» V- ^---*" —-, / South Georgia Is. \^ *°'\/off Queen Maud Land _ ( 1 9 8 5 / 8 6 ) 60' 60* / V ^ c c i , c l e ^ V \ / \ / * / \ ' / ^ ~ * * ^ i _ / > v \ ^ / ^ ^v. off South Orkney Is. \ /v""- . .^""I*****^- Svowa Basev x' \(l987/88) /Weddell Sea // Oueen Maud / \^^ (Japan) V^ >v. . / (1981/82) // Land / \-i\K /\ / > > & L y / E n d e r b y I V ^ \ / L a n d ^ ^ X \ / ^ ■ r \ « \ o f f E n d e r b y L a n d / A — ^ ^ L , - i % f \ / > ^ . y \ ( 1 9 8 4 / 8 5 ) / r e O ^ J X / s ' ^ ^ 1 \ Bellingshausen Sea / "ft / Mx^vSoiith Pnio-^ \ I ( 1 9 8 0 / 8 1 ) I < , % N \ 90* W 90'E \ V Q u e e n M a r y / i 1 W\.A \ \ L a n d V \ Amundsen Sea \V/£ Q /J \ ( 1 9 8 6 / 8 7 ) y C % ^ / c \\ \ \ y ^ ^ ^ V ^ » - / °"%h 7 * \ r * ^ • • —\ \ 7/\ / V/ \ / Ross Sea I \ Wilkes [/ ^vV X \ / ( 1 9 8 2 / 8 3 ) / \ L a n d / / \ ^ *--v A-—O^ off Wilkes Land ^"s. B a l l e n y \ s j \ ( 1 9 8 3 / 8 4 ) \ 120* 120" • * * ^ * ^ * ^ \ S

Maoquarie Is. •*? \ 150* 180* 150*

The 1988-89 research programme took place between 50 degrees west and 65 degrees west in the Bransfield Strait. The areas and years where research has been conducted for the past eight years appear in bold type. — Ministry of International Trade and Industry. Japan. 375 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Japan Plans for fourth base under review

Japan, which has three bases in Queen Maud unmanned system while at Asuka Camp Land — Syowa, Mizuho and Asuka — and which lies at 71 deg. 32'S and 24 deg. 08'E has been engaged in research there since the in the S0r Rondane Mountains region and International Geophysical Year (1957-58) has was established on 1 January 1985 for year plans for a fourth base nearly 1094km inland round operation. It supports regular auroral, from its main base Syowa. Construction of the geomagnetic and meteorological programmes base is under review by the National Institute as well as gravity and aeromagnetic surveys, of Polar Research and university glaciological airborne ice echo sounding and aerial institutes. photogrammetry. In the winter of 1987 Designed to serve the East Antarctic Inland seismic observations were also undertaken. Dome Glaciological Survey project the base Recent summer programmes involving would take two years to build, starring in the scientists and support personnel have 1991-92 season. It is hoped to begin full-scale included geological, geomorphological and surveys by 1993 at the latest. aerial photographic surveys of the central part Japanese glaciologists intend to study an of the S0r Rondane Mountains. Physical, ice dome at 77 deg. S/39 deg.E which is chemical and biological oceanographic 3800m above sea level. They propose to drill observations were also taken from the through ice 3000km thick to obtain expedition ship. meteorological information about the climate 150,000 years ago. Ice core sampling would be done at the 2500 to 3000 level. Japanese in crevasse ... since 1957 accident Syowa station, located at 69 deg. OO'S/39 Three members of the 30th Japanese deg. 35' E on East Ongul Island, Lutzow- Antartic Research Expedition (JARE-30) were Holm Bay was established on 29 January, seriously injured on January 13 when a 1957 is occupied throughout the year and snowmobile fell into a crevasse during an supports auroral, ionospheric, VLF wave, observation trip 200km from Asuka Camp satellite data acquisition programmes as well (71deg 31 min S/24deg 03min E). They were as studies of geomagnetic variation. Keizo Yanai (47) deputy leader of the 1989 Meteorological observations include surface winter team at Asuka, Kunito Kami (45), of synoptic, aerological sounding, and solar the Maritime Safety Agency, and Dr Masaaki radiation. Scientists have also installed a Kawachi (35), the team's medical officer. Dobson Spectrophotometer for ozone work. According to a statement from the Ministry Other programmes include environmental of Education in Tokyo, which is responsible monitoring focussing particularly on C02, for Japan's Antarctic activities, there wee two studies of soil algae and bacteria and separate accidents. The snowmobile on which population census of penguins and Weddell Messrs Janai and Kami were riding plunged seals. Natural earthquakes are monitored and some 30 metres into a crevasse. Dr Kawachi tide observations made. Studies of terrestrial also fell 25m into a crevasse while helping Mr ecosystem and human physiology are also Kami to a waiting snowmobile. undertaken. All three men were taken back to Asuka for Mizuho Station, which is located at 70 deg. preliminary medical attention. On January 19 42'S and 44 deg. 20' E and was established they were picked up by helicopter from the on 21 July, 1970 supports surface ice-strengthened research and supply ship meteorological observations with an Shirase and flown back for medical treatment. 376 Vol. 11 No. 9&10

The Shirase, which had brought the new Princess Ragnhild Coast of Queen Maud winter and summer teams, was berthed in Land. Breid bay 140m north of Asuka on the

First flight from Chile to Syowa

An airborne route to Japan's main Antarctic Otter which was flown to Syowa by Russell station Syowa from Chile was opened up last Boomberry and J. O'Toole. The aircraft flew season. Sponsored by the Asahi Press and TV by way of the Chilean stations Rodolfo Marsh Asahi a chartered Twin Otter flew from Punta on King George Island and Carvajal on Arenas and returned on January 25 after a Adelaide Island. Calls were made at the flight out and return which took more than British Halley Station and the West German 78 hours flying time. George von Neumayer Station. Leader of the first flight between South In Queen Maud Land the Twin Otter visited America and Syowa, described as the Japan the three Japanese stations, Asuka, Syowa, Antarctic Airborne Project 1987-88, ws the and Mizuho. The last stop on the outward noted Himalayan climber and Antarctic route was at the Soviet Molodezhnaya explorer, Masayoshi Murayama. He led the Station. A refuelling stop had to be made on team from Syowa which reached the South the way back at the Argentine Marambio Pole on December 19, 1968 after a 2570km Station on Seymour Island because of an overland trip. unexpected closing of the Rodolfo Marsh There were six passengers on the Twin runway.

Japan's Syowa station in the summer of 1985. Photo: National Institute of Polar Research, Japan. Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

South Korea South Koreans spend second winter on ice Scientists from the Republic of Korea are spending their second winter on King George Island on which they opened their base in February 1988. It is located at 62 deg. 13'15'S and 58 deg. 45'10'W and has emergency summer accommodation for up to 30 and 18 in winter. The base is indicative of Korea's formal commitment to Antarctica after involvement in the Commission for the Conservation of the Antarctic Marine Living Resources since March 1985 and accession to the Treaty on 28 November 1986.

Since 1978 the Republic has despatched January to March, a marine eight expeditions to the Antarctic to undertake programme focussing on algae and planktonic marine biology and chemistry studies in most organisms near Marian Cove was undertaken Antarctic summers. periodically and routine geomagnetic, wind In 1986-87 a base site was identified and speed, pressure, temperature, humidity, on 6 October 1987 the HHI 1200 departed visibility and solar radiation observations Ulsan in Korea for King George Island with made. construction materials and a team of scientists This season 27 scientists and technicians and technicians. Seven separate buildings comprising a summer and wintering party flew with a total area of 1,3872 were assembled from Korea to Punta Arenas where a by the Hyundai Construction and Engineering chartered Chilean C130 took them to King Company and support facilities installed. The George Island. The thirteen summer base was formally opened on 17 February expedition members were expected to return 1988 and a winter team of 13 comprising to Punta Arenas on February 20 leaving researchers from the Korea Ocean Research fourteen winter over personnel who will stay and Development Institute (KORDI), an at the base until January 1990. affiliate of the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology (KAISI), and base Leader, a geologist staff settled in under the leadership of Dr Under the leadership of geologist Dr Soon-Keun Chang a speciallist in Byong-Kwon Park also of KORDI 13 scientists geomorphology and glacial sediments. On 10 and technicians undertook a summer March the ship, captained by Hyun-Koo Cho, programme of geological and left the site for Korea arriving in Ulsan on 30 geomorphological field work in Barton Peninsula and King George Island in January May 1988. and February of 1989 and chemical Activities filmed and marine geophysical field Twenty television crewmen from the work in Maxwell Bay. Korean Broadcasting System (KBS) and the Marine programmes of sea-water sampling, Munhwa Broadcasting Company (MBC) temperature, sub-bottom and salinity profiling covered the building activities from December and sampling of sea bottom sediments were 1987 to mid January 1988. expected to be undertaken from the 836 ton Research programmes undertaken in 1988 Chilean research vessel Cruz de Froward, included a study of chemical oceanography operating in Antarctic latitudes from mid involving observations in the Scotia sea, a January to the third week in February. Twelve geological and geomorphological survey on Korean researchers were expected to Barton Peninsula and Marian Cove from participate in the voyage. 378 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

This winter's team, led by Dr Yea-Dong a high resolution interferometer which was Kim, will undertake an environmental science expected to be installed at the station during study comprising observations of micro the summer to enable study of thermospheric climate around and in the moss cushion and winds and temperature. Routine observations an ecological study of mossess and algae in at the station include geomagnetism, surface the area surrounding the station and on observations of wind speed pressure, Barton Peninsula. Other work will include an temperature, humidity, visibility and solar upper atmosphere physics programme using radiation.

Sweden Sweden establishes second base in Queen Maud Land Sweden, once expected to co-operate with New Zealand on research in the Ross Sea region of the Ross Dependency, chose to establish a scientific station in Queen Maud Land early last year and has now built a second station on the continent.

One of the first countries to send an This last summer a Swedish expedition in expedition to Antarctica in the Heroic Age of its own ice-strengthened ship went to western exploration, Sweden acceded to the Antarctic Queen Maud Land to build another station Treaty on 24 April, 1984 and achieved temporarily called Basen (Base) at 73 deg. consultative status on September 21, 1988. 02min S/13deg. 25min W in the Vestfjella The choice of Queen Maud Land for its (West Range) of the Kraul Mountains. This research programme is not surprising. will become the main Swedish base for Swedish scientists and airmen were in wintering capacity and Svea a satellite. Queen Maud Land as members of the Swedish research is concentrating mainly Norwegian-British-Swedish Expedition which on climatic and environmental change. worked there from 1949 to 1952. A noted Special attention is being given to the fast ice Swedish glaciologist, Hans Ahlmann, inspired age and the period following, and to the project which was the first large-scale sedimentary and tectonic history. international expedition. A Swedish scientist, The Kraul Mountains (73 deg. 30min S/14 Valter Schytt, was chief geologist and second- deg. lOmin W) are a chain of mountains and in-command of the expedition. nunataks which trend north-west from the With logistic support by the West German Veststraumen (West Stream) Glacier for about Antarctic research programme a joint West 112km. South African, Norwegian and West German/Swedish team made a traverse from German scientists have worked in the area in Georg von Neumayer Station last year to the recent seasons. Heimefrontfjella (Homefront Range) and established at 74 deg. 35min. S/11 deg. 13min. an advance base called Svea (Sweden) for glaciological and geological investigation of the region. The Heimefrontfjella (74deg. 35min S/11.00 W) consists of three mountain groups running north-east by south-west for 104.6km. It is 80km west-south-west of the Kirwan Escarpment. 379 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

USAP in 1990s All-season airfields and blue ice runways A plan for the construction and maintenance of an all-season airfield suitable for wheeled aircraft on the Ross Ice Shelf being developed this summer by the United States Army's Cold Regions Research and Engineering Laboratory (CRREL) for the National Science Foundation. The agreement between the two organisations for CRREL to provide engineering consultation for Antarctic operations includes a study of possible development of a sealed gravel surface runway at , the rocky promontory about 80km from Ross Island on the western side of McMurdo Sound.

Also related to the development of hard- strip was bulldozed from the gravel by Seabees surface runways in Antarctica is a survey of for use by light aircraft. The first landing of potential blue ice sites in the region 86deg to a wheeled aircraft oh the gravel strip was 87deg S to 165deg W and the region 85deg made by a VX6 Squadron single-engined to 86deg S and 160deg to 175deg E. A small Otter on January 31, 1958. CRREL team will make air reconnaissances Otter aircraft used the strip in the early years and preliminary ground surveys, using a of and a small chartered Twin Otter aircraft from the South maintenance unit remained at Marble Point Pole. to look after the tractors and earth-moving One of the greatest future needs for the US equipment. Antarctic programme (USAP) is a year-round Survey done hard-surface runway and an accompanying After the survey, which included collection base likely to cost SUS500 million and $US1 of data for the siting of buildings, power plants billion. This opinion was expressed in 1987 and electronic equipment, reports suggested by a special committee which reported to the US National Science Board on the future role that the United States planned to spend of NSF in the polar regions. In the same year between $US25 million and $US100 million a special panel was convened to assess safety on an all-weather commercial airfield to in the USAP and ways in which it could be provide an air link on routes between South improved. Last year the panel recommended America, Australia, and New Zealand. But by to Mr Eric Bloch, director of NSF, that the 1960 the results of the survey disappeared foundation should consider evaluating blue ice into the files in Washington, and later the areas as potential Hercules landing sites to equipment was brought back to McMurdo provide greater flexibility for science and Station across the McMurdo Sound sea ice. operational purposes. In the 1971-72 season NSF, by then responsible for financing and managing Since 1957 American Antarctic activities, arranged for the Since the International Geophysical Year Bechtel Corporation to report on the feasibility (1957-58) the United States has made several of establishing a new base at Marble Point. feasibility studies to determine whether a The study covered the research and logistic permenent all-weather airfield could be built needs of NSF between 1971 and 1991, and on the Antarctic Continent. Marble Point was included not only a study of the Marble Point the only suitable site found in a 10-year search airfield but also a re-evaluation and of Antarctica. operational cost analysis of the McMurdo A feasibility study of the area was made by Station runways for wheeled and ski- a survey team in 1957 and 1958, and a 548m equipped aircraft. 380 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

Nothing more was heard of the Marble ground transport between the two points. Point proposal after the Bechtel Corporation Related to the operation are studies made in reported that the cost of a new base, airfield, the last two seasons by other scientists of and harbour would be close to $US1000 methods of developing snow roads and million. The move could be made but the airstrips in the Ross Island area and at the major costs could not be recovered before the South Pole. year 2000. A conceptual design for a new station at the Staging point South Pole will be developed to prepare for Since then Marble Point has been used as the next phase of planning for replacement a staging point by US helicopters supporting of the present Amundsen-Scott South Pole field parties operating on the western side of Station. Previous surveys and studies of the structure of the geodesic dome at Pole Station McMurdo Sound and on the Polar Plateau. have been made by the Naval Civil Early each season, providing the sea ice is thick enough tractor trains from Scott Base Engineering Laboratory (NCEL) and CRREL take supplies and equipment across McMurdo will be extended this year. The purpose is to Sound to support and New provide guidelines on what (if anything) needs Zealand research projects. to be done to keep the dome "safe to live in" In the 1987-88 season, Dr Michael Mellor, through the mid-1990s. Solar and wind energy work at the Pole will leader of the CRREL team and two of his include compiling and analysing site data for colleagues made a preliminary study of Marble the station, and reviewing photo-voltaic and Point and the Ross Ice Shelf and sea ice wind generator technology. CRREL will also runways. This summer CRREL has been examine the economics of conventional concerned with a number of projects ranging electric power generation. from solar and wind energy at the South Pole to waste management practices at McMurdo Station, on Anvers Island off the Antarctic Peninsula, and on the NSF research vessel Polar Duke. U.S. Navy support Phased programme commander Construction plans and schedules will be made for a phased building programme at Captain Joe Mazza, a former commanding Marble Point. The first phases, construction officer of the U.S. Navy's VXE-6 Squadron, of a limited length gravel runway, would has been appointed Commander, Naval extend over two to three seasons. In the Support Force, Antarctica (CNSFA). He will second phase the runway would be take over his new command from Captain lengthened and auxiliary facilities built, and Dwight Fisher towards the end of June. the last phase would concentrate on paving In the 1984-85 season Captain Mazza, then the runway, taxi way, and parking apron with a commander, was posted to VXE-6 as low-temperature asphalt. A report will be operations officer. He served as executive made to NSF by June this year. officer the next season, was appointed to A site for one or two runways on the Ross command the squadron in the 1986-87 Ice Shelf will be selected somewhere near the season. site of the old Outer . The Captain Fisher, who has been appointed present skiways on the ice shelf are 3048m Navy liaison officer with the National Science and 2438m long. On the annual ice in Foundation's Division of Polar Programme, McMurdo Sound the runway for wheeled assumed the post of CNSFA in 1987. He was aircraft until mid-December is 3048m, and operations officer of VXE-6 in 1982-83 and there is also a helicopter pad. commanded the squadron in 1984-85. A As the accessibility of the airfield to naval aviator since 1966, he has served in the McMurdo Station will have a significant impact United States, Iceland, the Azores, Sicily, and on its successful operation CRREL will study Crete. 381 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Conceptual designs for new facilities at fuelling and other field supplies at locations Williams Field will also be developed. Field such as the Patriot Hills would provide con modules, which could be used as a construc siderable added capability for meeting opera tion/emergency camp at the Pole, are tional and scientific needs. The third reason is expected to be two-storey steel frame elevated that the Chilean Air Force which supports the buildings which could be moved every few Chilean Antarctic programme, is reported to years by tracked transporters. have expressed an interest in flying its wheel ed Hercules aircraft into the Patriot Hills field. Waste management A recent report by CRREL to NSF's A report on waste management was Division of Polar Programmes on hard- submitted to NSF by CRREL last year. This surfaced runways in Antarctica refers to a will be followed up and the team will inspect study of blue ice runways between South the old seaside dump at McMurdo Station and America and the South Pole made by CRREL advise NSF on future action. It will also advise staff in 1974 when the reorganisation of US on waste management practices at Palmer air operations in Antarctica was suggested. Dr Station and on the Polar Duke, consider Michael Mellor, author of the report, also improvements at the Fortress Rock solid waste refers to the discovery of extensive bare site behind McMurdo Station, and the icefields south of the feasibility of a closed incinerator system. suitable for use by wheeled Twin Otters. Another waste management project will determine the useful life of waste water Bare icefields in Ellsworth disposal pits at Williams Field and Pole This discovery was made by the British Station. CRREL will design a system for Antarctic Survey also in 1974 when Captain installation by the NSF contractor to predict Giles Kershaw flew an extensive echo- the useful life of the waste water discharge sounding programme under the direction of points in the snow pack at the two areas. Dr Charles Swithinbank, an internationally- In its engineering survey of Palmer Station known glaciologist, who retired in 1986 as CRREL will review available information and head of earth sciences for BAS. Dr conduct a site investigation. It will prepare a Swithinbank is now taking part in the CRREL report on the condition, use, and suitability survey of blue ice runways this summer. of the station buildings; water supply and When he retired Dr Swithinbank joined waste management; the dock and waterfront Giles Kershaw in a search for a suitable icefield facilities; and potential air operation sites. large enough for wheeled heavy transport aircraft. Using NASA Landsat imagery they Patriot Hills located the Patriot Hills field and laid out two Increasing use of a bare ice runway near runways for the private Canadian company, the Patriot Hills (80deg 19.5min S/81deg Adventure Network International and its 16min W) in the Heritage Range of the subsidiary, Antarctic Airways. The first flight Ellsworth Mountains by private tour operators to the airfield was made with a wheeled DC-4 who have flown tourists to the South Pole and chartered from Ltd, of mountain climbing parties to Vinson Massif, Calgary, in November, 1987. the highest peak in Antarctica, is one reason Many other blue ice areas exist in the for the evaluation of blue ice areas as potential interior of Antarctica, and it is possible that Hercules landing sites. The NSF safety panel there are suitable locations on the Ross Sea says in its report that as private tour operators side of the Pole, according to the DPP report. will probably expand their operations in A satellite airfield within 250 nautical miles of it is likely that the US Antarctic the Pole could be useful. Supplies and programme will eventually be called upon to passengers could be flown in directly from provide emergency assistance. New Zealand or South America in large A second reason according to the panel is wheeled aircraft. This airfield could also that in combination with the refuelling capa support inland stations as well as field sites in bility at Byrd Surface Camp the positioning of . - j. m. c. 382 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

Treaty Inspections British-New Zealand team visits 14 bases

Fourteen Antarctic bases occupied by ten nations in the Antarctic Peninsula area and the South Orkneys were inspected by a joint British-New Zealand team in January. In February a United States team visited four stations in the Ross Dependency (one abandoned) and two in East Antarctica.

Both inspections were carried out in colleagues. Then on December 28 they had accordance with Article VIII of the Antarctic their first experience of the Royal Air Force Treaty which provides for complete freedom "Air Bridge" across the South Atlantic to the of access and periodic formal inspections of Falklands from its station at Brize Norton. The stations, installations and equipment. This was journey was made in two stages, each of the first time since 1963 that New Zealand was 7412km by a Lockheed Tristar which landed able to send observers to so many stations and first at Ascension Island, and then made a cover such a wide area. second 7412km hop to the Falklands. Transport for the British-New Zealand team was provided by the Royal Navy's ice patrol H.M.S. Endevour ship, H.M.S. Endurance and her two Lynx H.M.S. Endeavour sailed from the helicopters. The American team travelled Falklands on January 2 for King George aboard the United States Coast Guard Island in the South Shetlands where she icebreaker Polar Sea, using helicopters and arrived on January 5. Inspections were made inflatables to visit some bases. of the Chilean station Teniente Rodolfo Marsh and the Soviet . The next day (January 6) the team visited Great NZ Observers Wall (People's Republic of China), Artigas New Zealand's observers were Mr Gerard (Uruguay) and King Sejong (South Korea), van Bohemen, who deals with polar affairs all in the Fildes Peninsula area. On January in the legal division, Ministry of External 7 the team flew straight to Henryk Arctowski, Relations and Trade; Mr Denis McLean, a the Polish station in Admiralty Bay. former Secretary of Defence and Mr David Geddes, operations controller, Antarctic Deception Island Division, Department of Scientific and Deception Island in Bransfield Strait south Industrial Research. The British members west of the South Shetlands was the team's were Dr John Heap, who deals with polar next destination. For nearly 20 years from affairs in the Foreign and Commonwealth 1912 to 1931 the island was the base for a Office; Mr W. Nigel Bonner, acting deputy- shore whaling station and factory ships used director of the at the anchorages there. time of his retirement; and Captain Thomas British, Argentine, and Chilean bases were Sunter, commander of H.M.S. Endurance. established there in 1944, 1948 and 1957 Because of his shipboard duties Captain respectively. From 1944 to 1967 the British Sunter was able to visit only one base, and base near the site of the disused whaling the FCO interpreter, Mr John Penny, became station in Whalers' Bay was occupied the sixth member of the joint team. continuously. But it and the Argentine and In late December last year the New Chilean bases were evacuated because of a Zealanders flew to London to meet their disastrous eruption on December 4,1967. All 383 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10 the bases were undamaged but covered by the team returned to the Endurance which volcanic ash. headed south for the most remote base to be In 1968-69 the British base was re-opened inspected. as a summer air facility. In February, 1969, This was General San Martin (68deg however, another violent eruption destroyed 08m/S /67deg 06m W) in Marguerite Bay. the old hut, half-filled the new hut and the It was established on Barry Island in the diesel fuel shed with a mud flow caused by Debenham Islands on on March 21, 1951, the volcanic ash melting a glacier. Mud flows temporarily reactivated in the 1973-74 also carried away part of the old whaling season, and became a permanent station on station and two old tractors. The whalers' February 22, 1976. cemetery was covered with ash. The Chilean When the observers arrived on January 12 base was completely covered by mud and they were warmly welcomed by the San ash. All three bases became inactive after this Martin staff who rarely have visitors. The base eruption. Later scientists from the three can be relieved and supplied only by sea and countries worked on the island in summer. there is only one ship a year. The British-New Whalers Bay with the remains of the whaling Zealand team was the first to sign the station station, sulphurous hot springs, and beaches visitors' book which was opened five years warmed by volcanic heat, have made before. Deception Island a tourist attraction in the last 25 years, and cruise ships call there each Historic links summer. Barry Island has an historic association with British exploration on the Antarctic Peninsula Tourists before the Second World War. In 1936 it was There were tourists going ashore the day the site of the southern base established by after H.M.S. Endurance arrived on January the British Graham Land Expedition 8. She anchored outside the bay because the (1934-37) led by the South Australian Argentine Navy's polar transport Bahia explorer John Rymill. The New Zealanders Paraiso was in the entrance and the next day found that San Martin had a link with Scott was busy ferrying tourists to the old whaling Base — one of its 16 huskies was born on station by inflatable boats. During her stay the Ross Island. Argentine ship also transferred fuel to the In the 1983-84 season Vega was sent to Spanish Navy's ocean tug Las Palmas for the BAS Rothera Station on Adelaide to transport to the new Spanish base King Carlos introduce new blood in the British dog teams. 1 on Livingston Island, South Shetlands. It was flown by the U.S. Navy's VXE-6 Squadron to the where the SSSI's ski-equipped Hercules made an open field On January 9 the Endurance entered landing on bare ice. Vega was picked up by Whaler's Bay and the team went ashore in a BAS Twin otter operating in the Martin Hills, inflatables to inspect the British base and the and arrived at Rothera in February, 1984. aircraft hangar, now more than 20 years old Now the husky is on loan to San Martin to and viewed the remains of the whaling station. improve the station's dogs. It also inspected a Site of Special Scientific When the joint team returned to the Interest (SSSI). The ship departed the same Endurance the New Zealanders flew to day for the BAS Faraday Station in the Adelaide Island on January 12/13 to inspect Argentine Islands, arriving at 8 a.m. on Rothera. They returned to the ship by boat January 10 to offload staff and equipment. on the afternoon of January 13. In the afternoon of January 11 the team flew to Teniente Carvajal originally Base T, The "Gullett" the old British base on Adelaide Island, As ice conditions on the west side of the established in 1961 and closed in 1977. Antarctic Peninsula were favourable Captain Britain transferred the base to Chile early in Sunter decided to take his ship through the 1983. When the inspection was completed narrows between Hanusse and Laubeuf 384 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

Fiords. The Gullet, first named Loubet Strait the Brazilian base Comandant Ferraz on the by the French explorer Charcot, separates the Kellar Peninsula at the head of Admiralty Bay. ice cliffs of Adelaide Island and the high slopes The old British Base G nearby was also of the Loubet Coast. The passage through inspected to decide on its future. The Gullet was an exciting experience for all When the team returned to the ship she aboard as the narrows were less than 365 headed for the South Orkneys on the final metres wide and the only ice free channel was stage of her mission. Her progress was made 35 metres wide. This was only the second or difficult by the movement of the Weddell Sea third time a ship had made the passage. ice north across her track but on January 19 On the morning of January 14 the New the New Zealanders were able to fly to Signy Zealanders flew 25km to inspect Faraday. Island to inspect the British base. After the Then the joint team flew to Anvers Island to inspection the Endurance anchored in the inspect the United States Palmer Station. harbour. There the New Zealanders encountered Dr Tony Inderbitzen, who was the NSF Scottish origin representative in Christchurch during the Orcadas, the Argentine base on Laurie 1987-88 season. Island was the last on the joint team's list, and Cruise ships the oldest. A weather station was established From Palmer Station the Endeavour sailed on the island on February 22, 1904 by the to and on January 14 Scottish National Expedition (1902-04) led by anchored in which is on the north Dr W. S. Bruce. The Argentine government west side of the island. There the six men agreed to take it over, and it has been manned continuously ever since. When the joint team were able to have a break for two days and arrived the station residents were busy nights from their arduous programme, but preparing for the 85th anniversary they could not get away from the outside celebrations. world. Two cruise ships, the World Discoverer After the inspection of Orcadas on January and the Lindblad Travel's chartered Soviet 20 the team had one more task — inspection ship Antonina Nezhdanova, arrived in the bay with their quota of tourists. of Specially protected Areas (SPA's) on Moe, Dorian Bay is not far from , Lynch, and Powell Islands. It was still summer site of the British Base A. established by the in the South Orkneys but the temperature was wartime Operation Tabarin in 1944. During down and snow was falling while the their stay some members of the joint team inspection was under way. inspected two old BAS refuge huts in the bay and went over the hill to examine the remains Mercy dash of the Port Lockroy Base as part of a survey H.M.S. Endurance headed for the to decide the future of abandoned bases. Falklands on January 21. She was well on her way when a message was received that a Mail drop seaman on a Polish fishing trawler had been Endurance left the peaceful bay on January injured. The Endurance went about, and in 16 and sailed for Deception Island where she the middle of the night the two Lynx arrived at 8 a.m. the next morning to pick up helicopters picked the man up and flew him a party of Royal Marines who had been back to the ship. When the Endurance was engaged on a survey on the island. The about 200 nautical miles from the Falklands observers were there for only two hours and the helicopters completed their mercy mission a half. Lunch-time aboard the ship was by flying the seaman to hospital. Top cover marked by a mail drop made by an RAF was provided by an RAF Hercules based in Hercules from the Falklands. the Falklands. From Deception Island the Endurance On January 23 the Endurance anchored returned to King George Island on January in East Bay at 11.30 p.m. Four of her 17. In the afternoon the joint team inspected passengers flew back to London on January 385 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

25 again on the RAF "Air bridge". Captain has an extensive Adelie Sunter, who had been able to visit only the penguin rookery on its lower terraces and the Chinese — Great Wall Station — on King are the site of the only Emperor George Island because of command penguin rookery on the west side of the responsibilities, continued his ice patrol duties. Antarctic Peninsula. Early in February the three New Zealanders On the final stage of the mission in the flew home. In a month they had clocked up South Orkneys the team visited SFA's on more than 74,127 kilometres of flying, Moe, Lynch and Powell Islands. including 29,650km on the "Air Bridge". Environmental standards Soviet inspection of In addition to checking the environmental Ross Island bases standards observed at the bases they visited A Soviet inspection team made a formal visit the New Zealanders and their British to McMurdo Station and Scott Base in colleagues were concerned with the ecology November. The inspection in accordance with of the area and the effect of logistic and the terms of the Antarctic Treaty was the last scientific activities on flora and fauna in in a series to scientific stations manned by specially protected areas and sites of special other nations in Antarctica. scientific interest. These have been declared For its mission the inspection team of eight, by the consultative members of the Antarctic which left Kiev for Buenos Aires on November Treaty in the terms of the Agreed Measures 2 used a ski-equipped twin-engined Illution for the Conservation of Antarctic Fauna and 500. Flora agreed to in 1964. Most of the King George Island bases are concentrated on the 200 flights Fildes Peninsula. During its visits there the The team's agenda entailed 200 flights in joint team made a general assessment of the all and included visits to fourteen stations environmental impact of these bases. It also operated by 13 consultative members of the reviewed the position of old bases in the South Antarctic Treaty. Of these five are on King Shetlands and elsewhere — some 30 to 40 George Island in the South Shetlands. They years old — to decide whether they should were Artigas (Uruquay), Henryk Arctowski remain abandoned or be demolished and the (Poland), Great Wall (People's Republic of remains removed from the sites. China), Comandante Ferraz (Brazil) and SPA's Jubany (Argentina). In the Weddell Sea Deception Island is a Site of Special region and East Antarctica are Georg von Scientific Interest (SSI) because of its volcanic Neumayer (West Germany),George Forster activity and the presence of small colonies of (East Germany), Halley (Britain), Dakshin Chinstrap and Macaroni penguins which have Gangotri (India), Syowa (Japan), Mawson survived natural disasters and human and Davis (Australia) and USA's Scott- predators in the past. In addition to Deception Amundsen's South Pole Station. Island the joint team visited eight Specially Protected Areas (SPA's) which have been Team of eight designated because of their penguin, seal or Leader of the inspection team was Mr A. seabird populations. N. Chilingarov, deputy-director, committee On the list in the first stage were of the Soviet Department of Hydro- Coppermine Peninsula (Robert Island) and meteorology. Other members were E. S. Cape Shireff (Livingston Island), both in the Korotkevich, deputy-director of the Arctic and South Shetlands; the Dion Islands in Antarctic Research Institute, Leningrad Marguarite Bay south-west of Adelaide Island; (AANII); G. E. Grikurov, head of department Lagotellerie Island, one of the Debenham in the AU-Union Scientific and Research Islands near the Argentine San Martin base, Institute of and Mineral Resources; and Green Island, one ofthe Berthelot Islands V.I. Bardin, deputy-chairman of the Inter near the BAS Faraday Station. departmental commission for Antartic Studies 386 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic of the Soviet Academy of Sciences; G.M. Peninsula on January 18. Muradov, general director of the Production Fourteen stations of eight nations in East Association of North-Western Aero-; Antarctica and the Weddell Sea area were B. V. Pikhanov, officer in the Directorate for inspected by an American team in 1983. Four International Technical Co-operation, Soviet of them in East Antarctica between Victoria Department of Hydro-meteorology; V. G. Land and Queen Maud Land are Soviet Savencho, senior research scientist AANII: O. stations: Leningradskaya, Mirny, A. Troshichev, head of the physics Molodeshnaya and Novolazarevskaya. department of AANII. The team joined the Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Star at McMurdo Station on McMurdo January 23 and completed its task early in Flying direct from Molodezhnaya the Soviet March. The icebreaker was supporting three inspection team arrived at McMurdo Station scientific projects by marine biologists off the on November 27. The next day the eight coast of East Antarctica during its voyage members flew to the Pole in a National which ended at Palmer Station on Anvers Science Foundation Hercules aircraft for their Island off the Antarctic Peninsula, and formal inspection of the American Station. completed a circumnavigation of the On November 29 the team went to Scott continent. Base where it spent the night. It arrived in Christchurch aboard an RNZAF Hercules U.S. inspects four bases in early on the morning of December 2. With the crew of the Soviet aircraft and three Ross Dependency members of the Soviet Antarctic Research Five United States observers flew south Expedition. Ross Island had an addition of 15 from Christchurch on February aboard a ski- Russians to iys population. The three equipped Hercules aircraft to begin their expedition members returned to inspection of bases, historic sites, and specially Molodezhnaya in the Illution. protected areas on Ross Island. They were Mr When its inspection was completed the Raymond V. Arnaudo, of the State team was flown from McMurdo Station to Department; Dr Sidney Draggan, of the New Zealand by a Royal New Zealand Air National Science Foundation's Division of Force Hercules and spent four days in Polar Programmes, and NSF representative Christchurch and five in Wellington before in New Zealand last season; Commander returning to the Soviet Union. Donald Pennit, of the Arms Control and Disarmament Agency; Commander Periodic inspections Kazanowska, U.S. Navy; and Mr Thomas Periodic formal inspection of station Laughlin, of the National Oceans and installations and equipment are permitted by Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Article VI of the Antarctic Treaty but the On February 9 the team inspected New complete freedom of access principle has not Zealand's Scott Base, and then the hut built been exercised more than a dozen times since for Scott's 1901-04 at 1961. The United States inspections (1964, Hut Point, which is one of the historic sites 1967, 1971, 1975, 1977, 1981 and 1983) approved by the Antarctic Treaty consultative have each covered from three to 14 stations members, and New Zealand's responsibility. over a wide area. Inspections bny New From McMurdo Station they flew by Zealand, Australia, the United Kingdom and helicopter on February 11 to which Argentina, have usually covered fewer is a Specially Protected Area (SPA) and stations and a smaller area. In 1981 a team contains a Site of Special Scientific Interest of five from the United States Arms Control (SSSI). and Disarmament Agency inspected Antarctic On the way back visits were made to Cape Peninsula stations. It joined the United States Royds which is an SSSI because Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea at of its Adelie penguin colony, and contains McMurdo Station and sailed for the Antarctic another historic monument — Shackleton's 387 Vol. 11 No. 9&10

1907-09 expedition hut. The hut built at Geoscience and Resources (BGR) expedition. for Scott's last expedition These visits of three hours to Terra Nova (1910-13) was the third historic site inspected. and two to Gondwana were made using the Before the observers boarded the United Polar Sea's helicopters. But when the ship States Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea for arrived off on February 18 bad the journey up the Victoria Land coast, they weather made it necessary to put the flew to which is an SSSI because observers ashore by landing craft. They of its Emperor and Adelie penguin rookeries. inspected the former joint US/NZ Hallett It is also the site of an historic monument — Station, established in 1957 and closed as a the remains of the stone hut constructed in permanent station in the 1973-74 season. July 1911 by Edward Wilson's party during Rounding the Polar Sea the historic winter journey ("The Worst headed for the Soviet station Leningradskaya Journey in the World") undertaken with on the Oates Coast. The inspection team flew Apsley Cherry-Garrard and Henry Bowers to to the station on February 19. This was the collect . third time Commander Kazanowska had been Two summer stations in Terra Nova Bay there. She was a member of two earlier were inspected on the voyage north. The first inspection teams in 1982 and 1983. visited on February 16 was the Italian Terra By February 21 the Polar Sea was off the Nova Station which was established in the coast of Adelie Land, and the team flew off 1986-87 season on the coast of the Northern to inspect the French Dumond d'Urville Foothills at the north-east end of Gerlache Station situated on l'lle des Petrels in the Inlet. Gondwana, the small West German Pointe Geologie Archipelago. From Dumont base was the next to be visited on February d'Urville the icebreaker then headed direct for 17. It was established in January, 1983, in Adelaide where she arrived on the morning Gerlache Inlet near Mt. Melbourne by of February 25. Commander Kazanowska GANOVEX HI, the Federal Bureau of had seen the French station for the third time. The tiny West German station of Gondwana visited by the team on February 17. It lies in Gerlache Inlet beneath Mt. Melbourne. Photo — Dr Franz Tessensohn. Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic Tourists by land, sea and air Close on 4,000 Antarctic tourists and support staff were expected to go south this summer. Of these up to 3,000 travelled by ship from South American ports, mainly to the Antarctic Peninsula area. More than 60 mountaineers, skiers, and other hardy souls, plus guides and air crews arrived to climb the Vinson Massif, Antarctica's highest peak, reach the Unit ed States Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station by Twin Otter aircraft or ski 600 nau tical miles there from the Patriot Hills (80 deg. 19.5 min S/81 deg. 16 min W) in the Heritage Range of the Ellsworth Mountains.

Between late November and early March base camp has been established for ascents two cruise ships carried tourists to South of the Vinson Massif or other high peaks. Georgia, Elephant Island, the South Orkneys Adventure Network International, a and the Falklands. They were the World Vancouver-based company, pioneered the Discoverer (120-130 passengers) which was route with a chartered ski-equipped Twin to make seven trips and the Society Explorer Otter and a Chilean Air Force Hercules which (90-100 passengers) which was to make eight was hired to airdrop drums of fuel at the trips. Both are operated by Society selected site. The first round trip was made Expeditions, based in Seattle. by Captain Giles Kershaw for Antarctic Lindblad Travel, which operates from Airways, the privately-funded flying arm of Westport, Connecticut, chartered the Soviet ANI. Cruise ship Antonina Nezhdanova which was Antarctic Airways now operates two Twin at the New Zealand port of Lyttelton early last Otters leased from Calgary-based Kenn Borek year. The ship, which can carry a maximum Air Ltd. A Californian company, Mountain of 90 passengers, was to make six trips to the Travel, co-operates with ANI in the promotion Antarctic Peninsula area, calling at research and organisation of trips to the Ellsworth stations on the coast or offshore islands. Mountains, and this summer organised the ski Travel Dynamics, of New York, entered journey to the Pole Station. tourism in the 1987-88 summer when it charted the Illyria (125 passengers, Flights maximum). The ship was to make six trips. Tourist flights to the South Pole became Built in Italy in 1962 the Illyria (3755 possible in 1986 when an extensive bare tonnes) is now Greek-owned and registered icefield close to the Patriot Hills was found to at the port of piraeus. She was rebuilt in 1982 have a suitable area for use by wheeled and refurbished in 1985 to carry cruise aircraft. After Kershaw had surveyed the passengers. icefield and made a series of landings on it Cruises with a Twin Otter ANI decided that it would Both Chile and Argentina provided have to set up a base, mark out a runway, Antarctic cruises for smaller numbers of and land a large wheeled aircraft on its own passengers aboard two of their research and before the Chilean Air Force could be supply ships. The Argentine Bahia Paraiso persuaded to land a wheeled Hercules there. and the Chilean Capital Luis Alcazar have Kenn Borek Air bought a 43-year-old been available for charter by organisations, Douglas DC-4 and leased it to ANI with a and have taken limited numbers of tourists on crew of three pilots and three engineers, all short visits. They combine supply operations with Arctic experience. The aircraft was with the tours. modified with long-range fuel and oil tanks, Since the summer of 1985 mountaineering fitted with long-range navigation equipment, groups have been able to fly from Punta and provided with 20 passenger seats. After Arenas to the Ellsworth Mountains where a weather and other delays the aircraft left 389 Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Punta Arenas on November 15 for the New Zealand Wildlife Service for ten years, 1700nm flight to the icefield where the two chartered a Tasmanian-built oyster boat from Twin Otters were stationed to provide ground a Bluff fishing company for a 16 day cruise support and emergency backup. to the Auckland Islands and Campbell Island. After the inaugural flight in November the When the 113-tonne Cindy Hardy sailed next month was spent flying fuel and from Bluff on January 22 she carried ten equipment to the icefield and building up passengers with a sense of adventure and an route experience. The field was developed as interest in natural history. Each paid NZ$4823 a reception centre for passengers and freight for the trip. The Cindy Hardy is 23.7m long, to be flown on to base camps, including the fitted with a 200 hp diesel motor and operated South Pole using the two ski-equipped Twin by its own crew. Otters. Tradewind, a company which owns a With Society Expeditions ANI then offered 77-year-old former Dutch topsail schooner passenger flights to the Patriot Hills and which was restored to sail from England to onward travel to the Pole, starting in January Australia in the First Fleet bicentennial re- 1988. On January 11 the first tourists arrived enactment in Sydney Harbour, is slightly more and nineteen altogether were shuttled to the ambitious. Mark Hammond, skipper of the Pole in three flights on January 11 and 12. Tradewind, once the Willem, and his fiancee, This summer only two flights were to be Alison Brown planned three voyages to the made to the Pole with eight paying passengers Auckland Islands and Campbell Island this in each Twin Otter. Two climbing groups of summer. The first started from Hobart on eight Americans and eight Norwegians were December 18. booked to fly to the Ellsworth Mountains. In addition to guides ANI provides a doctor and a support staff at the base camp which could have a moving population of up to 50 people during the season. Ski-journey Mountain Travel has organised the most unusual and most expensive Antarctic tour — the cross-country ski journey to the South Pole from the Patriot Hills. Originally eight serious candidates put down US$5,000 in advance for an adventure which would cost them $69,000, apart from paying their air fare to Punta Arenas and the cost of a 10-day training session in the Canadian Arctic. Planned to begin on November 26 and take up to 50 days of skiing, the expedition finally comprised five people. The basic fee charged by Mountain Travel included food and other supplies, the services of guides and other support staff who accompanied the trekkers on snowmobiles and unloaded and packed the sledges carrying the gear during the camp stops en route. The costs of the whole operation was reported to have risen to US$100,000. New Zealanders ran four tourist cruises to sub-Antarctic Islands, and on a much more modest scale. Rodney Russ, who was with the A postcard of the Tradewind. Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

After the first island visit the Tradewind bar. arrived in Dunedin on January 15, and In 1985, Mark Hammond and Alison departed January 23 and February 15 on Brown, who is a director of Tradewind, the second and third cruises. Twenty started a world-wide search for a suitable berths were available on each trip at a sailing ship which they wanted to won cost of $3,564 each. A 37m long steel- and operate as a commercially profitable hulled vessel, the Tradewind has a business. They found the Wilem in professional crew of eight and is fitted Amsterdam, and after it had been with modern navigation and safety aids, restored, it was sailed from London from single and double bunks and a saloon where it left on the voyage to Sydney. Argentina's Bahia Paraiso sinks off Anvers Island

Argentinian vessels carrying oil containment equipment and experts to operate it were ordered from the site of the sunken Bahia Paraiso by government authorities on March 23 as the weather closed in for the winter. American, Chilean and Spanish vessels and personnel have also left the site.

Ironically translated as Paradise Bay the and a dock. About 40 people can be Bahia Paraiso sustained a 10 metre gash in accommodated in the summer and the winter its hull when it ran aground on shoals off the population is usually ten. south-western end of Anvers Island in the Access to the station is known to be difficult Bismarck Strait, 565 km from the tip of South with submerged shoals, small islands and ice America on January 28 discharging diesel oil bergs occasionally appearing in the area — into the pristine Antarctic environment. It was usually ice free in summer. Rich in wildlife, subsequently partially refloated and stabilised scientists say it is ideally suited for biological with a list of 25 degrees and water up to the studies of birds, seals and other components helicopter deck. The oil leaking from the ship's of the marine ecosystem. A regular tanks was reduced to a flow of 7.75 litres per meteorology programme is run with minute and contained by a light inflatable occasional work on upper atmosphere boom put around the ship by the Chilean physics, and geology. This year an vessel Yelcho. ozone study focussing on the effects of the High winds then put a stop to salvage work depletion on marine organisms was being and three days later the vessel sank in 15 undertaken. The National Science metres of water rolling on its starboard side Foundation has invested over $US80 million leaving about 20 percent of the port side ($NZ127.2 million) in the work of the station visible above the water. The wreck can be over 20 years and many of the programmes seen 1.1 US mile from the communications associated with wildlife have been long term. room of Palmer Station to which the vessel The 9,600 tonne, diesel-engined, ice had made an unscheduled visit. strengthened polar transport Bahia Paraiso is 132.7m long and has a beam of 19.5m and Palmer Station draught of 9.7m. Built by the Spanish firm Palmer Station is on the southwestern coast Astilerro Principe y Menghi SA she was of Anvers Island off the Antarctic Peninsula. launched on July 3 1980 and commissioned It was completed in 1968, stands on solid rock for service by the Argentinian Navy in July and consists of two major buildings and three 1981. Her captain on this voyage was Juan small ones plus fuel tanks, a helicopter pad Carlos Sampietro. She requires a crew of 124 391 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

and is capable according to published sources Buenos Aires by the Chilean airforce and to of taking 44 personnel in transit and 82 their subsequent destination by the seagoing passengers whose fares help defray Argentinians. Five days later the Spanish running costs. There were 316 people on Royal Navy tug Las Palmas, which had been board at the time of the accident. used to support the Spanish expedition to When fully loaded the Bahia Paraiso is able King Carlos 1 Station off Livingston Island, to carry dry cargo of 3,500 cubic metres, 250 took off the remaining 44 crew members. cubic metres of refrigerated cargo and 1200 Observations from the various ships created tonnes of fuel which on this voyage comprised a confusing picture of the oil flow from the 950,000 litres of diesel and aviation fuel as vessel shortly after the damage was sustained. well as petrol and bottled gas. Much of the Local personnel say oil poured from the ship diesel was carried in drums strapped to the when it capsized. A plane from the Chilean decks. The fuel was destined for the resupply Antarctic Institute overflying the wreck later of the Argentinian Base Esperanza. in the day calculated a slick of 700 metres Shortly after she ran aground the mainly extending back from the boat. The American and European passengers and Argentinians claimed that no oil leaked at all Argentinian crew were taken to the nearby while the captain of the Las Palmas near the Palmer Station. A few minor injuries were accident site three days later (and after treated and within a short time the US tourist containment measures had been vessel Society Explorer took 132 passengers, the Russian chartered Greek vessel Illiria 80 implemented) said there was no sign of oil escaping from the sunken vessel but patches and the Chilean ship Cruz de Froward took had spread up to a mile from the accident. 40, relieving the overcrowded station. Most Measures to contain oil spilling from the of the passengers were offloaded in the South damaged vessel were taken quickly as the Shetlands at Tiente Marsh and flown back to crew of the Chilean navy oceanographic ship

The Bahia Paraiso — Photo: Colin Monteath Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic

Yelcho surrounded the wreck with a light Scientists studying cormarants, the blue boom. Staff from Palmer Station used their eyed shags, in another nearby colony fleet of zodiacs and the ship's lifeboats to observed birds suffering from internal recover drums, CNG cylinders and other heamorrhaging evident from anal bleeding. floating debris. In the United States the A team of scientists from the United States National Science Foundation asssembled a were subsequently flown to the site to make team of 15 experts and 52 tonnes of equip baseline studies of the damage. They will ment subsequently flown by the giant trans return again next season. A preliminary report port, C5 Galaxy, to Buenos Aires for their is expected to be published in late May. research vessel RV Polar Duke. They arrived within about eight days and installed a heavier boom around the Bahia Paraiso. Two 36 foot skimmer boats collected surface oil and pumped it into inflatable tanks and chemical dispersents were used to break up patches of Australian flag flown on oil. Work on the vessel has continued until the Vinson Massif retreat of the teams during the middle two Antarctica's highest peak, 4,897m Vinson weeks of March. The Americans then Massif, in the of the Ellsworth returned to the States via Buenos Aires. Two Mountains, was climbed by two Australians Argentinian vessels, one of which was the and a New Zealander on December 10. They Bahia San Bias, and the Chilean vessel the were Greg Mortimer (36) and Mike McDowell Cruz de Froward have assisted with (42), both of Sydney, and Colin Monteath operations including the sealing of the Bahia (40) of Christchurch. Paraiso to stop further leaking. Approximately Since 1966 when an American Alpine Club 170,000 metric tonnes of oil are thought to expedition made the first ascent the peak has remain on the vessel but are inaccessible. been climbed by Americans, Canadians, The Argentinians invited experts from the Japanese and West German and Soviet Dutch Salvage firm the Wijsmuller to advise scientists. Mortimer, McDowell and Monteath on the vessel's recovery and they arrived at are the first climbers from their two countries the site about 21 February but, with only a to accomplish the feat. month to complete operations before the There was a double celebration when the winter set in, no such work was possible and team completed its five-day climb from the future plans are uncertain. base camp to the summit where they planted an Australian flag in the ice. December 10, Impact was Mortimer's birthday, but with Shortly after the vessel grounded prelimin temperatures of minus 40 deg celsius no ary observations made by the staff at Palmer champagne corks were popped. They made Station revealed dead and dying krill washed do with frozen chocolate bars. up in tidal pools along the coast of the island. Because of the delay in their flight back to Subsequently skuas and penguins which Punta Arenas the climbers spent a cold are both regurgitating feeders were affected. Christmas at their base camp. But all three The normally aggressive skuas became have climbed at high altitudes in Antarctica lethargic and failed to protect the chicks in before and are used to ice and cold. their nests. In one study area of 54 pairs an Mortimer, a geologist, was in the Australian entire generation of chicks have been lost. team which climbed Mt. Everest in 1984 and Chinstrap and Adelie penguin young, due to led the Australian Bicentennial Antarctic go to sea for the first time within days of the expedition on the first ascent of Mt. Minto grounding, had to make their way through (4165m) in the of North contaminated waters and the affect this season Victoria Land on February 18 last year. is unknown although a small number of adults Monteath, a photo-journalist, has climbed in had been found dead. Antarctica, the Himalayas, Africa and the 393 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Soviet Union. McDowell, an adventure travel the Lindblad Explorer, now the Society company owner, has had ten years Explorer. experience in Antarctica as cruise director of

Six skiers arrive at Pole

Sue skiers, four men and two women, and comfortable camp which can accommodate four guides reached the Amundsen-Scott up to 40 people. South Pole Station on January 18 at 9.45pm When the tourist began their journey they local time after travelling more than 300 were preceeded by professional guides who nautical miles (559km) from the Thiel drove snow-mobiles hauling sledges packed Mountains (85 deg 15min S/90 deg W). with food and supplies. At each halt after 10 S h i r l e y M e t z , ( 3 7 ) a n A m e r i c a n to 15 miles of ski-ing over the 740 miles to businesswoman and freelance journalist and be covered the guides set up camp, pitched Victoria Murden, a 24-year-old Harvard tents and prepared meals for their six charges. theology student, were the first women to reach the Pole by land. Of the four men, three were Americans, Extensive training Jerry Corr (56), a property agent, Ronald The team had undergone extensive training Milmarik (45), a US airforce dentist and and attended two camps prior to the trip and Joseph Murphy (55), a writer. The fourth except for a few cases of frostbite all were fit man was Colonel J. K. Bayad (45), Director and well when they reached the Pole to be of the Indian Army Mountain Institute at welcomed by the station leader. On the way Kashipur, Uttar Pradesh. The party also they had to cope with winds rising to nearly comprised the first Americans and first Indian 54 knots and temperatures down to minus 40 to reach the pole by ski. degrees Celsius. When the party flew back to Patriot Hills on January 18 it left behind two skidoos, two Party of 11 Eskimo type sledges and supplies for the east- Leader of the party of 11 was Martyn west traverse to be undertaken next season Williams, who founded Adventure Network International. He is English-bom, but has lived by Will Steger and Jean-Louis Etienne. in Canada since 1969. The four guides were Stuart Hamilton (Canada), Jim Williams Champagne celebration (USA), Alejo Contreras (Chile) and Michael The chartered Twin Otter, on which the Sharp (Britain). tourists returned, spent one and a half hours A Californian Company, Mountain Travel, at the Pole before taking off at 2.21 a.m. on organised the tour and the Canadian based the morning of January 18 with the Adventure Network International was expedition members. Bad weather on the responsible for the planning logistics and return flight forced the pilot to land in the Thiel operations. Air support has been given by Mountains when the aircraft was 500 km ANI's subsidiary Antarctic Airways. north of the pole. The party camped 32 km from the supply depot until the weather Blue-ice runway cleared and then flew onto Patriot Hills to be From Punta Arenas the party was flown to welcomed with champagne. By January 19 the ANI base on a lateral moraine at the foot they were back in Punta Arenas. of the Patriot Hills by an ANI chartered For the privilege of being the first tourists wheeled DC4 which landed on the blue ice to ski to the Pole they paid $US69,500 plus runway established by ANI in the 1987-88 their airfares to Punta Arenas and the cost of season. There the tourists were housed in a their training. 394 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic Dick Smith twice at Pole

Dick Smith reached the South Pole at last in the , Law Base in the on November 24 and spent two hours there. Larsemann Hills and Dovers in the Prince He and Giles Kershaw flew the "Australian Charles Mountains. Geographic" Twin Otter Sir Hubert Wilkins Flights were also made to Molodezhnaya, from Casey on November 22 to the Mirny and Vostok and the new Soviet base at Cape Evans. Progress in the Prydz Bay area. November 18 With two members of the Greenpeace the Twin Otter made a 9 hours 22 min winter team, Keith Swenson (leader) and demonstration flight from Mawson to Japan's Wojciech Moskal (oceanographer) and drums Syowa Station by way of Proclamation Island of fuel the Twin Otter left Cape Evans at 8.30 and Molodezhnaya. Between November 11 p.m. local time on November 23, arriving at and 19 Smith and Kershaw also ferried the Pole at 2 a.m. the next morning to passengers and cargo from the ice edge to establish a fuel depot. The aircraft returned Davis and Mawson when the Icebird was to World Park Base at 9.45 p.m. on blocked by heavy ice. November 24. Early on the morning of November 26 Continued from p. 369 Smith and Kershaw flew back to Casey where Handling Bureau, a national development they arrived just before 7 p.m. after half an agency concerned broadly with the physical hour at Dumonte d'Urville. On November 28 movement of goods. the aircraft made a reconnaissance of the Australia's Antarctic research programme submarine Petersen Bank and the coast is now the responsibility of the Department towards the Baleana islands and also surveyed of Arts, Sport, the Environment, Tourism and possible landing sites for Hercules aircraft. Territories. Formerly the division was part of By November 30 Smith and Kershaw were the Department of Science and Technology. back at the Pole again. They flew from Casey to Vostok on November 29, departing at 4.31 a.m. on November 30. Snowmobile accident Hoisted flag Five and a half hours later the Twin Otter at Davis, two hurt landed near Pole Station. Dick Smith hoisted Two men in the summer team at Davis who the Australian flag, the aircraft was refuelled were injured in a snowmobile accident near and after a stay of an hour and 20 minutes the station on January 6 were flown to a the flight was resumed to the blue ice airfield hospital in Buenos Aires on January 9. One near the Patriot Hills of the Sentinel Range man broke both ankles; the other broke the of the Ellsworth Mountains where the Twin lower part of one leg. Otter landed at 3.40 p.m. Early in December When they lost control of the snowmobile the Antarctic crossing was completed by way on hard, blue ice the men were thrown off of King George Island. The last landing was and fell five to seven metres onto more blue at Punta Arenas. ice. They were able to radio Davis for help Lent to ANARE for scientific and logistic and were taken by helicopter to the station support of this summer's programme the Twin hospital. There it was decided to evacuate Otter and its pilots covered a wide expanse them rapidly for specialised treatment. of territory and were employed on a major From Davis, the men, unnamed by the radio echo-sounding project in the Prince Australian Antarctic Division, were flown first Charles Mountains, and surveys of Emperor 110km by helicopter to the Soviet Base penguins and Weddell seals. In less than three Progress, and then another 1200km north to weeks the aircraft and its crew were at Casey, Molodezhnaya. A Soviet aircraft flew the Mawson and Davis, Base men, accompanied by Australian and Soviet 395 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10 doctors, to Bellinghausen, King George Buenos Aires and were admitted to hospital. Island, landing on the Chilean airfield at A Hobart report said it would be decided later Rodolfo Marsh Station. whether they would be treated there or On January 10 the Australians arrived in returned to Sydney. Historic Chapel of the Snows rebuilt again Antarctica's first church — the tiny Chapel is close to the shore of the Sound and of the Snows on Ross Island where Americans near . Just 840 miles from McMurdo Station, New Zealanders from from the South Pole, the Chapel of the Scott Base, and visitors, have worshipped Snows is the world's southernmost building irrespective of religious denomination, since erected primarily for religious services. It is 1956, was rebuilt last summer and dedicated the only known house of worship in Ant in January this year. Built in the winter of arctica. 1956 from surplus materials by volunteers, the The hour-long dedication ceremony at chapel has been rebuilt three times since then. tracted an overflow crowd from McMurdo In the early hours of August 23, 1978 the Station and from Scott Base. It included first chapel was destroyed by fire. All that was piano music, hymns and bible readings rescued from the ruins were the chapel bell, and was conducted by Lt. M. Brad Yor- small religious items damaged by the flames, ton, chaplain of the U.S. Naval Support and two stained glass windows. Lost in the Force Antarctica. During the ceremony fire were the chapel organ and records of Ronald R. La Count, a National Science United States activities on Ross Island since Foundation Official and the senior U.S. 1955. representative in Antarctica described After the fire services were held first in the the construction of the new chapel and National Science Foundation administration recalled how volunteers had erected the buuilding. Then a quonset hut similar in age earlier chapels in their spare time. He cited and size to the original chapel was provided official reports that documented the signi as a temporary place of worship. The 1979 ficance of worship for those at the station, winter team volunteered to do the necessary whose work took them far from their fam modifications, working each day after normal ilies and their home communities. duties. In December the chapel was dedicated. Father Gerard Creagh, Hoon Hay Finally another Chapel of the Snows was Parish, Christchurch an invited speaker built close to the original site exactly as it was said in his address "Another chapter in the in 1956. The final stages were completed in history of a unique operation is about to the winter of 1982 by volunteers when off begin — a unique operation in peaceful duty, and the chapel was in use by last co-operation and coexistence on the only August. continent that has no weapons, and The chapel was rebuilt for the third time known class struggles or wars and from during the four summer months. The which nuclear explosions and waste are building, which is 190 metres square, is banned by treaty." constructed from materials salvaged from The 38-nation Antarctic Treaty en the station rebuilding which is yet to be courages international co-operation in completed. It was constructed by ITT, scientific research and states "it is in the Antarctic Services, the NSF contractors interest of all mankind that Antarctica shall and contains office space, a central wor continue forever to be used exclusively for ship area that normally seats 63, and the peaceful purposes". It prohibits military station's only organ. fortifications and maneuvers, sets aside the It is situated on a knoll that overlooks issue of territorial claims, and guarantees McMurdo Sound and the peaks and free access for observation and inspection gladers of the . It of facilities.

396 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic Scott Base husky centre of new museum display Jens, oldest of the last 14 Scott Base which reached the North Pole with dog sledge huskies flown to the United States early 1987, teams in the northern summer of 1986, sold died of natural causes in Alaska in February three of the Scott Base huskies to the Lawson. 1988. He was nine years and five months old. They were Jens, and Nimrod and Julick, who Bom at Scott Base, Jens will be the centre were both bom in June, 1979. piece of a new display in the Canterbury Brian Lawson, who was a Royal New Museum which will illustrate the role of dogs Zealand avionics technician at the time, in Antarctica. His cured skin, leg bones and wintered at Scott Base in 1985. His wife wintered twice at McMurdo Station, first in skull, plus a plastic dog mould, will be used in the display expected to be completed in 1983 and again in 1985. This year Will Steger and a French doctor, 1990. They have been given to the museum Jean-Louis Etienne, who made a solo ski by a New Zealander, Brian Lawson, and his American wife, now living in Fairbanks, Alaska. journey to the North Pole in 1986, will begin the first stage of an east-west traverse of In late 1986 the remaining Scott Base Antarctica. They and four companions will huskies were presented by the DSIR to the start from at the tip of the Antarctic Stegar Outdoor Centre in Ely, Minnesota, Peninsula and plan to reach Mirny by March, which has been breeding polar huskies for 1990. more than 20 years. One, Stareek, born in Some of the remaining Scott Base huskies December, 1979, died on the flight to the at Ely may be used by the expedition on one United States. A second, Footrots, born of the stages. Five or six or the younger dogs September, 1981, died this year when he was took part in a preliminary training expedition poisoned by the spines of a porcupine which which crossed the Greenland icecap between he tried to eat. mid-April and mid-June last year. The dog Will Steger, co-leader of an expedition teams covered 1389 nautical miles in 62 days.

"South Polar Times" sold for $8600

Three volumes of the fascimile edition of Smith, Elder published the facsimile edition "The South Polar Times", the illustrated which was limited to 350 copies. magazine of Scott's two Antarctic expeditions FOOTNOTE: Volume III (June to were sold for $NZ8600 at an auction of rare October, 1911) was sold for $NZ110 in 1977 books in Christchurch on December 9. The at a Wellington auction of Antarctic rare first volume had been autographed by Sir books, prints, and maps. A copy of "Aurora . Australis", one of the rarest books about Started on the Discovery expedition with Antarctica, brought SNZ2400 at the same Shackleton as the first editor, followed by auction and remained in New Zealand. Edward Wilson and Louis Bernacchi, "The Another copy owned by a Christchurch South Polar Times" was continued on the resident was sold to a Melbourne rare book with Apsley Cherry- dealer in August this year for $AUS40,000. Garrard as editor. The original three volumes It was bought at auction in London 18 years are now in the British Museum, in 1914 ago for 450 pounds (then $NZ961). 397 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10 'Discovery's" restoration progresses More than fifty thousand visitors are expected on board the Discovery this summer. The ship, built for Captain Scott's 1901 expedition to the Antarctic, returned to Dundee in March-April 1986 as part of a major redevelopment project in the city using the waterfront and some waste land. The return of Discovery was a complex operation which depended on her being floated out of St. Katharines Dock in London within 30 minutes of the high water of the equinoctal ; a level reached only twice a year. Restorative work is now in the third of a five year programme and is expected to cost over one million pounds.

The Discovery was launched in Dundee on wintering over, to advance into the western 21 March in 1901. She was welcomed by a mountains, to the south and explore the crowd of thousands on her return to Victoria volcanic region. Such sledging parties as may Dock, only yards from where she was built therefore be organised were also to observe eighty five years earlier. During the 10 weeks the nature and the size of the Antarctic that she was open during the summer of 1986 continent, the thickness of the ice and to take she was visited by 32,500 people. samples of the rocks and fossils which it It is the first of three major projects being covered. organised by the Heritage Trust operating Sir Clements Markham, president of the through its charitable subsidiary Dundee Royal Geographic Society was appointed Industrial Heritage Ltd. The Trust is an chairman ofthe expedition and worked hard association of the Scottish Development to raise 100,000 pounds to equip it properly. Agency, the Dundee District Council and the The Admiralty agreed to pay those Royal Tayside Regional Council. It was established Naval officers and men volunteering for the in January 1985 and involves the local expedition of which was community with its various trades, businesses appointed Commander in 1900. and industries. The restoration of Discovery In October 1899 the ship committee, a is being funded by individual philanthrophy, subcommittee of the organising committee, grant aid, company donations, trust grants and comprising several distinguished admirals and public subscription. It is part of a 30 and arctic explorers, called tenders for the million pound development on Dundee's building of a ship. There were few replies and waterfront between the Tay Rail and Road among them only one company with recent bridges. experience of building ships considered The National Antarctic Expedition of 1901 suitable. The Dundee Shipbuilder's Company for which Discovery was built, was sponsored was commissioned, and the construction of by the Royal Society, the Royal Geographical the vessel designed by W. E. Smith, Chief Society and the British Government. Constructor to the Admiralty, was overseen The two societies formed committees to by members of the party to go south. The keel obtain a ship and to plan the work of the was laid in March 1900 and the vessel built scientists going with the expedition who were at a cost of 51,000 pounds. to conduct full magnetic surveys, measure The Dundee Shipbuilder's Company Ltd ocean depths and temperatures and take had taken over the business of Alexander samples for analysis, and collect biological Stephen & Sons in 1894. The company, with specimens. They were to assess the nature, yards in Aberdeen and later on Clydeside, condition and extent of the South Polar Lands had specialised in wooden whaling ships but within the scope of the expedition and, if later used iron and steel in its clippers, one 398 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 Antarctic of which, the Maulesden, in 1874 made a planking of Riga fir, pitch pine, Hondouras record breaking voyage to Sydney in 69 days. mahogony or oak. Outside were two layers As gas lighting caused a decline in the of planking of English elm or greenheart. In demand for whale oil the last of the stout total the sides were 26 inches of solid timber. wooden whalers built by the company is thought to have been the Terra Nova used Glide and crack by the Government to rescue Discovery in The massive side structures were stiffened 1904 and later by Scott when the Discovery and strengthened by three tiers of beams was not available for his second expedition running from side to side and at intervals with in 1910. stout transverse wooden bulkheads; the beams of the lower tiers spaced at three feet "Sixth" Discovery were 11 inches square in section. Finally named in June 1900, Scott's The bow comprised numerous and closely Discovery was thought to be the sixth vessel spaced girders and struts and like the stem was of that name. The first made six Arctic further protected for three or four feet on voyages from 1602 to 1616 to the regions of either side with numerous steel plates. The the Hudson and Baffin Bays, commanded, stem comprised several pieces of wood on one, by William Baffin. The second also scarfed together to the equivalent of an almost voyaged to Hudson Bay in 1719 and the solid block of 11 feet and, in addition to strong third, a small collier, belonged to the fastenings, bolts up to 8V2 feet ran fore and Admiralty and accompanied Cook's after holding all together. The heavy stem was Resolution on his voyage to the Pacific. A designed to glide up on icefloes, the weight fourth was used by George Vancouver on his of the ship cracking them, while the stem, with voyages of exploration in 1791 and 1795. its uniquely designed and pronounced The fifth, a Dundee whaler built for the overhand protected the rudder, stem post and Greenland whale trade and originally named screw propellor. Bloodhound, was renamed Discovery and sailed on a Royal Naval expedition to the Detachable screw North Pole in 1875-76, successfully Like other ships of the time the screw could navigating through ice. Considered the best be detached and lifted up through the deck ship ever employed in the Arctic service the but unique to Discovery was a rudder which design of the renamed ship influenced the could also be lifted, offering greater facility for construction of Scott's vessel. repair. The organising committee completely Discovery's load displacement was 1620 rejected the newer type of Arctic vessel, tones at 16 ft mean draft, her overall length Amundsen's Fram. With her sides inclined of 226 ft with a beam of 34 ft. She could until her shape was similar to that of a saucer, steam or sail. The ship was undermasted and she was designed to withstand the north polar in Scott's opinion the masts were placed too pack, a feature believed to have been far back. The mainmast from trunk to keelson achieved at the expense of her sea worthiness was only 112 feet, which he described as and powers of ice penetration. (Today yet being extremely short for such a vessel; the another RRS Discovery is being used by the yards were square, the mainyard being 60 feet Natural Environmental Research Council, of long. Being stiff she could have carried larger which the British Antarctic Survey is part, for sails and the small spread of sails made her its oceanographic studies.) sluggish in slight winds; but provided useful Using the general design of the 1875 supplement to the engines in strong breezes Discovery, Smith added 10 feet amidships while, contrary to normal sailing practice, in and strengthened the hull structure by placing heavy gale conditions, the mainsail and the the frames, which were of solid English oak job were all that were removed. 11 inches thick, close together. Inside the Two cylindrical boilers arranged to work at frames was an inner lining — solid four inch 150 lbs per square inch drove a triple 399 Vol. 11 No. 9&10 expansion steam engine provided by Gourlay with fitted double doors and skylights. Thick Bros engineering works also of Dundee. They lagging was installed as insulation below the were designed to give 450 horsepower but on main deck. trials delivered 500 hp. The main coal bunkers Provisions for 43 men for two years could held 240 tons, the smaller pocket bunkers 53 be carried in the holds which contained many tons. When steaming economically Discovery separate water tight compartments. One used 4-6 tons per day but in heavy seas under galley with a large cooking and water heating stove served both the officers and crew — the sail she rolled heavily and the cruiser type officers' cabins opened from the main ward stern with its overhang made steering difficult. room 30 feet long by nearly 20 across. The A steam driven dynamo provided electric lights, a small condensor fresh water stored in tanks of non-magnetic zinc each holding 25 tons. A strong deck winch installed The journey begins on March 27, 1986 as amidships, an auxilliary engine and a powerful "Discovery" is towed to the entrance of St. capstan engine under the forecastle were part Katharine's dock within 30 minutes ofthe high of the new ship's equipment. water of the equinoctal tides. Officer and crew accommodation below decks was designed for life in the Antarctic Photo: Industrial Heritage Trust Limited. Vol. 11 No. 9&10 crew enjoyed less privacy in the general Clements, cut the white ribbon, holding back shorter but wider accommodation area. When a bottle of Australian wine wreathed in the main engine and boilers were shut down flowers. Following the launch a celebratory to save coal during the Antarctic winter, the lunch was held at the Queen's Hotel in crew lived more comfortably than the officers Dundee while workmen received and installed whose main cabins were furtherest away from the engines prior to sea trials. By July she was the warmth of the galley stove, although there in the East India Dock in London ready for were originally four smaller stoves of French the voyage to the Antarctic. The ship was design installed at each end of the two swung at Spithead to correct the compass on accommodation areas. August 1, and inspected by the King and A scientific-chemical laboratory was built Queen at Cowes on August 5, leaving into the design. The magnetic observatory on England the following day. board caused special problems as everything within a 30 feet circle sweeping down by the "Discovery" is towed into the Port of foremast, under the bottom of the ship and London to await the arrival of "The Happy up in front of the mainmast, had to be of brass Mariner" and begin the long voyage to or other non-magnetic material. Dundee. Discovery was launched on March 21, 1901 when Lady Markham, wife of Sir Photo — Dundee Industrial Heritage Limited.

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On December 24, 1901 she left Port Dock in London and between 1937 and 1954 Chalmers, New Zealand, and on January 4 the Boy Scouts Association ran the ship for the first icebergs were sighted. She made her use by the Sea Scouts following which she way through the pack ice and into the open was commissioned by the Admiralty as a drill water beyond. After landing at Cape Adare, ship for the London Division of the Royal Scott coasted along Victoria Land to Naval Volunteer Reserves, now the Royal McMurdo Sound, arriving there on January Naval Reserve. 21, 1902 surveying 500 miles of the ice barrier Discovery remained the property of the and discovering King Edward VII land before Admiralty until April 2, 1979 when unable to returning to McMurdo for the first of two maintain the ship or meet the cost of a major winters she was to spend trapped in the ice. refit and to arrest suspected deterioration of In danger of a third, her crew, assisted by men the inner hull caused by a fungus growth, her from her sister ships Terra Nova and Morning ownership passed to the Maritime Trust. sent into the rescue, blasted a passage for her Founded in 1969 with the aim of restoring, to escape on February 14, 1904. maintaining and exhibiting historically and Returning to England in September 1904, technically significant British vessels of all types Discovery was sold to the Hudson Bay together with maritime equipment, the trust Company, converted for general purposes planned to assemble its collection in and sailed the Atlantic as a stores ship. From association with St. Katharine by the Tower 1912-14 she was idle and during 1915-16 Ltd and arranged with the National Maritime was chartered by the French government to Museum at Greenwich to establish a museum carry arms and ammunition to Russia. of exploration and discovery in the vessel. The ship was laid up again from 1919-1923 Between 1980 and 1986 the Maritime Trust and in 1924 after an extensive refit at Vosper's raised about ' '500,000 by public subscription yard she again became a research ship and began restoring the ship after her many involved in the investigation of the whaling alterations. She was fully rigged, her hull and grounds of South Georgia, South Orkney and interior repaired; skylights and compass re Deception Island. Later she was used by the installed, rails and the bowsprit replaced and British, Australian and New Zealand the galley refitted. With displays detailing her (Banzare) expedition led by Sir Douglas construction Discovery was again opened to Mawson. the public as part of the Historic Ship In 1931 she was laid up in the East India Collection at St. Katharines Dock in London.

WEDNESDAY 3pm Semi-submersible (The Happy Mariner) Clearance in lock ' Discovery moved by ballasted down at high water at high tide tugs and ropes

Discovery floated in and secured by i i timber supports

Road bridge Footbridge Footbridge JIIW/ raised retracted Happy Mariner's hold pumped dry removed -^^x(£)tHURSDAY 2-3pm > Moored 1**^ Moved into lock £.SdC ©2.54pm

In 1985 an agreement was reached condition using a Vosper's refit specification between the Maritime Trust, the Dundee for which full working plans and drawings Heritage Trust and the public authorities in exist. This mainly incorporated changes to the Dundee for the return of the ship to her home bridge layout, the officers' ablutions area at city on a twenty year lease. the stern. The French-made fires used to Two-thirds of her masts, her yard spars, jib warm the officers and crew quarters were also boom and lifeboats were removed to lower removed and replaced in the wardroom by her centre of gravity. The lock which joined a mirror and a chiffaneer. One of the four her berth with the Thames and for which she original fires is in Dundee and has been was too long with both gates closed, was located in the office of the Governor of the dredged of two feet of mud and the Discovery Falklands and information about its presence was edged out using small tugs and seamen is obscure. who volunteered to haul on the ropes Since her return the spars and the anchored to the quay. yardarms, many of which were cracked have There were only twenty minutes from 2.30 been taken down and restored, and work on p.m. on March 27 when the tide was high cabins and wardroom has been completed. enough to give the Discovery with her 13 ft The deck has been recaulked and the after 6 in. draught a bare 6-12 inch clearance in steering position restored. Last year the lock connecting the picturesque old dock restoration work focussed on the starboard and the Thames. Once in the Thames larger side and the stern and cost approximately tugs towed her through Tower Bridge to a 90,000 pounds. The stern, which was riddled temporary mooring by Tower Steps. with rot, has been virtually rebuilt requiring The Happy Mariner, a semi-submersible skilled work from the shipwrights who have ship, operated by Mammoet Shipping of had to carve the timber before fitting it. AH Amsterdam in Holland, specialists in timber replaced is of the same kind as the transporting large and unusual loads, took on original. water from the Thames to sink low enough The dock in which Discovery will finally rest for the Discovery to be hauled aboard. With has been completed and the gates are being the water pumped the ship left London on the fitted. Final clearance for the overall Heritage two day 500 mile voyage to Dundee which Project to proceed was given on February 6 passed without incident. This phase of the and the building of the centre, due for operation cost 140,000 pounds. completion in 1991, will begin this year. Discovery is to be restored to her 1924

MARCH 29-APRILl

403 Antarctic Vol. 11 No. 9&10

Discovery was officially opened by Sir Peter available for £50. Subscriptions are Scott on Tuesday April 21. 1987 and an welcome and should be sent to the Dundee international membership scheme launched. Heritage Trust. Maritime House. 26b East Membership will provide for free entry onto Dock Street. Dundee. Scotland. Discovery, a trust magazine and subsequently This season the ship will be open for visitors a programme of events and activities, a from Saturday April 1 to the end of October. personal membership card and a reduced rate Hours are afternoons and weekends only on souvenir items. Fees are £8 for from April 1 to May 30. all day. everyday a working adult. £5 for pensioners from June 1 to September 1 and afternoons and others obtaining concessions and £12 and weekends only from then to the end of for a family. Company membership is October. NZAS produces new postcards The New Zealand Antarctic Society has Edward VII land on 1 January 1908 while produced a new set of six sepia postcards the fifth in the series shows Terra Nova depicting the vessels of the early expedi departing Lyttelton for Victoria Land in tions which visited Lyttelton. the port of 1910 and the sixth features Aurora berthed Christchurch New Zealand, on their way to at Lyttelton in 1911 after returning from or from the ice. BANZARE in July 1911. The cards are from originals held in the Canterbury The first in the series shows Discovery Musuem Archives and in the I. W. Harkess departing for McMurdo Sound on 21 collection and were printed by Outreach December 1901 on the National Antarctic press in Christchurch. Expedition of 1901-1904. Morning depar They are available from the Society at ting Lyttelton on 6 December 1902 as part $NZ1.80 a set plus postage (70 cents in of the Discovery relief expedition features New Zealand and $1 Australia and South in the second while the third shows Morn Pacific. $1.50 North America and Asia and ing. Discovery and Terra Nova moored at $1.80 South America. Africa. Europe and Lyttelton soon after their return from Middle East). Please write to the National McMurdo Sound on 1 April 1904. The Treasurer. P.O. Box 1223. Christchurch or fourth shows Nimrod departing for King to your branch treasurer.

Terra Nova departs Lyttelton. Vol. 11 Nos. 9/10

The New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc.,

The New Zealand Antarctic Society was South Island residents should write to the: formed in 1933. It comprises New Zealanders Branch Secretary, and overseas friends, many of whom have Canterbury Branch, seen Antarctica for themselves and all of New Zealand Antarctic Society, P.O. Box 404, whom are vitally interested in some phase of CHRISTCHURCH Antarctic exploration, development or research. or: Branch Secretary The annual subscription is NZ$35.00. This Otago Branch, entitles members to: New Zealand Antarctic Society, i Antarctic, published quarterly in the P.O. Box 7083, Mornington, autumn, winter, spring and summer. It is DUNEDIN unique in Antarctic literature as it is the only Overseas residents should write to the: periodical which provides regular and up to New Zealand Secretary, date news of the activities of all nations at New Zealand Antarctic Society, work in the Antarctic and sub-Antarctic. It has P.O. Box 1223, a worldwide circulation. (Airmail postage is CHRISTCHURCH extra for overseas members.) Bulletin only membership is available to libraries and other i Newsletters for New Zealand members and institutions at NZ$30.00 for organisations in New Zealand; an annual newsletter for overseas members. NZ$37.00 to those in Australia and the South Pacific; Regular meetings are held by the Auckland, NZ$41.00 in North America and Asia and NZ$44.00 in South America, Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Wellington, Canterbury and Otago branches. (These prices include airmail postage.) Subscriptions are: • N.Z. $35.00 in New Zealand Student membership: NZ$26.00 plus postage for overseas members. • N.Z. $43.00 in Australia and South Pacific' • N.Z. $48.00 in North America and Asia' • N.Z. $52.00 in South America, Africa, Europe and the Middle East* Advertising rates ' Includes airmail postage overseas. Full colour (outside back page only) $400 You are invited to join: Whole page (b&w only) $200 North Island residents should write to the: Half page (b&w only) $100 Branch Secretary Q u a r t e r p a g e ( b & w o n l y ) $ 3 5 Auckland Branch, The rates are negotiable for regular placement. New Zealand Antarctic Society, Deadlines: The first of December, March, June and 34 Haycock Avenue, September. Mt. Roskill, AUCKLAND Enquiries to the Treasurer, New Zealand Antarctic Society, or: P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch, New Zealand. Branch Secretary, Fliers and other advertising material can be inserted at Wellington Branch, cost of $150 per issue plus any additional postage incurred New Zealand Antarctic Society, through any such insertions. Enquiries should be made to P.O. Box 2110, the editor whose address, telephone and fax numbers WELLINGTON appear in the front of this issue. Set by Lucas Graphics and printed by R.W. Stiles & Co. Ltd, both of Nelson, New Zealand