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In the Shadow of St. Helens a Debut Backpacking Trip Filled with Discoveries and Challenges by Solo Steve Things in Common—There Was a Plague Toilet

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In the Shadow of St. Helens a Debut Backpacking Trip Filled with Discoveries and Challenges by Solo Steve Things in Common—There Was a Plague Toilet Northwest Explorer AYNE P TEVE S Backpacking around Mount St. Helens has unique challenges: few water sources and no shade among them. But the chance to get a front row seat viewing the most active volcano in North America is worth the hardship. In the Shadow of St. Helens A debut backpacking trip filled with discoveries and challenges By Solo Steve things in common—there was a plague toilet. The upper site at Bear Camp has of grasshoppers, tons of wildflowers, awesome views of Rainier! The sites at My brother-in-law and I set out on and sweet, ripe huckleberries every- Obscurity Lake Camp are not near the a Saturday morning in August to at- where. We dropped packs and went up lake—in fact, we saw no easy access to tempt a loop in the Mount Margaret to Harry’s Ridge to get a better look the lake. The Panhandle and Shovel Lake backcountry near Mount St. Helens. I into the volcano and Spirit Lake, then Camps are near their respective lakes, had been planning this birthday trip for returned to the Boundary Trail to hike but getting to them involves a steep, some time—the permit folks probably the steep ridge to Coldwater Peak and downhill trip from the Lakes Trail. You thought I was nuts when I applied in St. Helens Lake. will receive small maps with the camp early March! The lake is quite a stunner. It’s much layout and nearby water sources with With the weekend’s hot weather, and smaller than Spirit Lake, bowl-shaped your permits. scarce water sources on portions of the and clear blue, marred only by the dead, We were on the trail again by 8:30 trail, I knew water was going to be a major blasted trees floating on its shores. The a.m. on Sunday. The Boundary Trail concern. I’m still learning backpacking, trail travels high above the lake, and gradually gained and lost elevation until and getting lighter each trip. But I fig- there was no obvious access. We saw we reached the unsigned trail to Mount ured we would need 10 liters between and heard a pair of marmots (my first Margaret. The short trail up ends at a the two of us to get to our first reliable sighting!), and an elk bolting up the hill. wide peak, and we soaked in the views water source midway through day two. We arrived at Margaret Camp at about of Mounts St. Helens, Adams, Rainier So we filled our five bottles and two -hy 6:30 and turned in at sunset. With visions and Hood, each under a cloudless blue dration packs, moaned about the weight, of the elk and bear prints through the sky. A coyote darted along one of the and kept telling ourselves that every sip camp fresh in my head, I was absolutely lower game trails. We looked down on would make us a little lighter. convinced that there were critters scur- a golden eagle in flight! There were a We enjoyed clear skies and a bit of rying around the campsite. But it was couple of backpackers starting up as we a breeze as we left the Johnston Ridge just the wind flapping the tent. It was a reached the bottom, and we swapped Observatory parking lot at noon on the good first day of hiking, but a lousy first details about our trips. They had come Boundary Trail. (A ranger informed us night of sleep. in via the Norway Pass trailhead and that the gates here are not locked, in FYI: Each of the camps has at least overnighted at Dome Camp, and were case you anticipate exiting after hours.) two level, framed tent pads, a gray- returning to Mount Margaret to get a The trails throughout the trip had three water sump, and a solar composting better view than they had the day before. October 2006 WASHINGTON TRAILS Northwest Explorer down to the junction with the Coldwater AYNE P Trail, negotiating one washout along the TEVE S way with a series of butt-slides. At the junction, we cut the other pack loose and my brother-in-law double-timed it over the 4.5 miles to the Coldwater Lake parking lot. Thanks to the pair of hikers who gave him a lift from Coldwater Lake up to Johnston Ridge to retrieve our truck! I continued my hobble-step-hobble-step routine along the Lakes Trail until he met me about a mile from the truck. We were headed out about 8:45 p.m., twelve hours and 10 miles away from where we’d started that morning. I was incredibly lucky to make it out under my own power, and to have a super backpacking partner like my brother-in- Mount Adams from the Boundary Trail near Mount St. Helens. law. If I had this trip to do over again, I’d skip the Lakes and Coldwater Trails I had planned the water just about right. themselves down in the valley, and we altogether, and just do a through-hike We were taking a break at Bear Camp saw more eagles and a falcon. The huck- on the Boundary Trail. In my opinion, when the couple caught up to us and leberries got more ripe and sweet the there are much prettier lakes in the said that there was a good water source more we hiked. But the trail conditions Alpine Lakes Wilderness, with better yards away—very timely, since we were worsened to the point where we lost the trails leading to them! down to our last full bottle. main trail and got sidetracked on a game Solo Steve (aka Steve Payne) is a WTA We arrived at Bear Pass and left the trail. We started doubling back, took our member from Federal Way. He recently Boundary Trail, descending steeply on time, checked our maps, and listened to hiked for WTA in the annual Hike-A- the Lakes Trail toward Grizzly Lake (no each others’ opinions on where to head Thon event this August. obvious access). We met a ranger coming next. We had just identified the main the other way, who told us about trail trail again when I took a bad step on conditions, reminded us not to make some pumice pebbles. My left leg flew Trip Essentials campfires, and described the descent to out, and my awkward center of balance Shovel Lake Camp, our destination for had me landing my butt right on top of Johnston Ridge–Norway Pass night two. The Lakes Trail is in rough my folded right leg. I heard a loud POP shape—overgrown, with near-washouts and cursed like a sailor! The pain was Hikable: July–early October and narrow tread. It needs a lot more on either side of my ankle, but it wasn’t One-way trip: 19 miles (car shuttle boots and/or a series of maintenance a break, since I could move my foot left required between Johnston Ridge parties. By the time we arrived at Shovel and right and back and forth. I tried and Bounday trailhead on FR 26) Lake Camp via a steep, sandy path (which a hobble-step or two and determined Elevation gain: 3,000 feet. we probably would not have found had it I could probably walk, but very, very Map: Green Trails 332 Spirit Lake not been for the ranger’s bootprints), we slowly—and without a pack. To get there: Drive SR 504 to John- had traveled about 9 miles in nine hours. It was decision time. Our night three ston Obersvatory at road’s end. The brookies were literally jumping out camp was Ridge Camp along the Cold- of the water, but neither of us had the water Trail, but that was three miles and The route: Follow Boundary Trail energy to use the fly rod we’d brought. 1,500 feet of elevation gain away. Since east 2.3 miles; stay east at a junc- We were content to have dinner, take in we had found the main trail again, I sug- tion and pass St. Helens Lake at the sunset and turn in early for a much gested we take the (mostly level) Lakes 5.5 miles; continue east up Mount better second night’s sleep. Trail all the way out to the Coldwater Margaret and to a junction at 14.3 Following our bootprints up and away Lake boat launch, where we might find miles; turn right and follow the from Shovel Lake, we reached the ridge someone to help. Now, what to do with Boundary Trail another 1.8 miles tired and sweating about 9:30 a.m. on the packs? We left the tent and one of to Bear Pass and Norway Pass; Monday (my birthday!). Here the Lakes the sleeping bags, consolidated some of decend 2.2 miles to the Norway Trail gains and loses elevation as it passes the other essentials we would need to Pass trailhead. by Snow Lake. Herds of elk were sunning overnight if necessary. We made our way WASHINGTON TRAILS October 2006 News & Features Climbing a New Volcano Reopened after two years, Mount St. Helens is a changed mountain S U.S. Geological Survey geologist Steven ILLIAM Schilling estimated the 1996 glacier’s size B. W D at 25 acres, smaller than any of the 11 AVI D named glaciers that covered Mount St. Helens in 1980. Within five years, the gla- cier had grown to 250 acres, larger than any pre-eruption glacier, and by the time of my visit, it had a maximum estimated thickness of 645 feet and a volume of 157 million cubic yards, roughly equivalent to about 46 Giza pyramids.
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