ARKANSAS’ BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER ALSO: ECO-CONSCIOUS THRILL-SEEKERS FLOCK TO THE NORTH COAST OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC + SEEDS OF THE PAST / PENCILS OF PROMISE FOR THE FUTURE / DALLAS ARBORETUM FOR KIDS

› SEPTEMBER 15, 2013

Dear Old * DUB * ’s capital city welcomes everyone — even a writer with no guidebook

Strolling down CANNON STREET in CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA SALUTING OUR TROOPS ( Pg. 12 )

09.15 Cover_Dublin.indd 1 08/28/13 12:46 PM AAP - Pitstop - _0HGWH_AW20130915-FC1.pdf August 28, 2013 12:47:20 09.15 Feature_Dublin.indd 42 42 DUBLIN Just be prepared be forJust the craic. your guidebooks at home and BY BY For a true, authentic experience in let the locals tell you what’s good. LOCAL FLAVOR JOSEPH GUINTO JOSEPH SEPTEMBER 15, 2013 15, SEPTEMBER A A P - P i t s t , leave leave , o p AA.COM/AMERICANWAY - _ 0 H R Q R _ A W 2 0 1 3 0 9 1 5 - 0 4 2 . p d f A u g u s t 2 7 , 2 0 1 3 0 6 : 5 9 : 3 3 8/27/13 6:57AM

FROM LEFT: THE MERRION HOTEL; HEMIS.FR/SUPERSTOCK 09.15 Feature_Dublin.indd 43

FROM LEFT: THE MERRION HOTEL; HEMIS.FR/SUPERSTOCK at area favorite The Temple Bar (below). Bar Temple The favorite area at freely flows Guinness works. their of by one inspired (left), dish pastry this —includes Ireland in collection art private largest the to —home hotel Merrion Tea The at Art IN: IT DRINK A A P - P i t s t o p - _ 0 H R Q S _ A W 2 0 AA.COM/AMERICANWAY 1 3 0 9 1 5 - 0 4 3 . p d f A u g u s t 2 7 For more information on SEPTEMBER 15, 2013 15, SEPTEMBER visiting Ireland, go to to go Ireland, visiting , www.ireland.com 2 0 1 3 0 6 : 5 9 : 3 3 8/27/13 6:57AM 43 09.15 Feature_Dublin.indd 44 T — to discover a side of myself I’ve neglected. neglected. I’ve asideof myself discover — to “This is a lesson. Waiting for your Guinness Guinness for your Waiting alesson. is “This with a thick, creamy head. Mess with that system, and you’ll and have that system, foamy a head. Mess with creamy athick, with to be the smallest pub in this city of 1.27 million people and 1,000 pubs, pubs, people 1,000 of million and 1.27 city this pub in smallest the be to 44 lifelong Dubliner, I’ve come itself Dawson the to proclaims which Lounge, mess instead of a thin, quaffable beverage. ¶ After I order the quaffableAfter beverage.my pint, ¶ of athin, instead mess properly pouring a Guinness: The bartender — or “barman,” as the Irish Irish the as —or “barman,” bartender The properly aGuinness: pouring then, I’ve come to Dublin for some education for education some Dublin to come I’ve then, patience.” learns Irishman an how is settle to over, me then looks Dubliner The wait.” to and orderedand apint of Dublin’s brew. signature Now, there’s for asystem barman makes his first pull, then sets the Guinness down and collects my down thethen Guinness sets pull, first his makes barman leans in and says in a brogue-laced whisper, whisper, a brogue-laced in says and in leans ing its contents. “Oh,” I say. “I’m supposed Isay. “Oh,” supposed “I’m contents. its ing megasps. to next payment. As he turns to get my change, I pick pick I my change, get to heturns As payment. up the beer. A well-dressed Dubliner sitting sitting Dubliner beer. Awell-dressed up the quarters of way. the it quarters Asecond finishes settle. to left pull beer is the Then say — makes two pulls on the beer tap. The first fills the pint glass three- pint theglass fills first on The beer tap. the pulls two say —makes It’s an embarrassing way to learn. But, But, learn. to way embarrassing It’s an - slosh down, back glass pint the I slam Not just any beer: Guinness, the dark, stout been beer that has dark, the Not Guinness, beer: any just in the world. the yet, in I’ve ¶And screwed it up.of suggestion Atthe a hI brewed in Dublin since 1759. Arguably the most famous beer brand 1759. since brewed beer brand Dublin mostfamous the in Arguably s se PT I s supposed to be the easy part: easy the to be s supposed ember 15, 2013 15, ember A A P - P i t s t o p Ask about my heritage, and I’ll likely say I’m I’m say likely I’ll and my heritage, about Ask AA.COM/AMERICANWAY way to Ireland’s postcard-perfect rolling rolling postcard-perfect Ireland’s to way every year, but, despite Dublin’s being home being Dublin’s despite but, year, every tourists zip through the capital city on their on their city capital the through zip tourists many population, of Ireland’s percent 40 to Ireland to come Americans 850,000 than Dublin. about less even and Ireland about tle Sicilian. But I’m also half Irish — an even even —an Irish half I’m also But Sicilian. and the greatest wine bar in Rome, I know lit Iknow Rome, in bar wine greatest the and point you to the best restaurant in Bologna Bologna in restaurant best the to you point split. So it’s shameful that although I can Ican although that it’s shameful So split. - On Dublin, I’m probably not alone. More not alone. I’m probably Dublin, On _ 0 H P U R Drink a beer in Dublin. Dublin. abeer in Drink _ A W 2 0 1 3 0 9 1 5 - 0 4 4 . p - d f A And the best way for a guy having trouble trouble having for aguy way best the And Dublin — and maybe a bit more about myself. myself. abit about more maybe —and Dublin who is considered the foremost author foremost the considered is who go to the Guinness brewery and get a motor amotor get and brewery Guinness the to go just drinking a Guinness to do that? With With dothat? to aGuinness drinking just - sun for severe hospitalized being of people during my five-night stay: 68 degrees. stay: my five-night during own walking-tour company, meets me in mein company, meets walking-tour own coach to the country. You think Dublin isn’t isn’t Dublin You country. the think to coach cepted, I’ve set out to get to know the real real the know to get out to set I’ve cepted, the lobby of the Westbury Hotel, where I’m where Hotel, Westbury of the lobby the the Ireland.” real to Dublin to come people “Your me, tells the help locals. of afew the and touristy pedestrian lane that is Dublin’s Dublin’s is that lane pedestrian touristy and ity on all things Dublin and who runs his his runs who and Dublin things on all ity midst of an unusually sunny and warm warm and sunny unusually of an midst the in is city The Dubliner. expert my first main shopping drag. “You must have coffee coffee “You have must drag. shopping main keting executive and newspaper columnist columnist newspaper and executive keting hills and craggy seasides. As one resident As seasides. craggy and hills It’s a brilliant, abrilliant, It’s stretch — so unusual I’ve even heard reports reports heard even I’ve unusual —so stretch staying. We take off for Grafton Street, a tony tony a Street, for off Grafton We take staying. blazer, Pat Liddy, a 69-year-old former mar former Pat Liddy,blazer, a69-year-old temperature high The heatstroke. and burns u That sounds like a dare. So, challenge ac challenge So, adare. like sounds That Braving this “heat wave” in a checkered acheckered in wave” “heat this Braving g u s t 2 2 , cloudless day when I meet Imeet when day cloudless 2 0 1 3 1 7 : 0 3 : 5 08/22/13 5:02PM 6 - - -

This Page, From LeFT: raiLway ProcuremenT agency; Tony PLeavin/FaiLTe ireLand this page, from left: railway procurement agency; tony pleavin/failte ireland 09.15 Feature_Dublin.indd 45

failte ireland; inset: courtesy pat liddy’s walking tours ltd. part of the country’s literary tradition literary country’s the of part Wilde, Oscar poet Irish immortalizes that astatue ; Croke at stage center takes hurling of sport national Ireland’s Street; Grafton tony left); authority Pat Liddy (opposite page, far th Roddy Doyle, a Dublin author, recently put author, recently aDublin Doyle, Roddy words and playing with them, twisting and and twisting them, with playing and words of the mid-1800s that killed more than 1mil than more killed that mid-1800s of the could say nothing. I choose the latter, mostly mostly latter, the Ichoose nothing. say could effect of the city’s great literary tradition, I tradition, literary great city’s the of effect ture memorializes The Great Irish Famine Famine Irish Great The memorializes ture took over organized-crime networks that that networks organized-crime over took arrive in St. Stephens Green, where asculp where Green, Stephens St. in arrive leave the country. the leave to million another prompted and people lion that balcony narrow a with shop coffee level a sound … the sound of people who love talk love who of people sound …the a sound in Bewley’s and see the stained glass on the on the glass stained the see and Bewley’s in is an implication that I’m a criminal, or I I’m acriminal, that implication an is ing, people who love words, who love taking taking love who words, love who people ing, is Dublin not aplace. is “Dublin way: it this … “That’s he says, heritage my Sicilian-Irish peating a question I’ve heard several times times several heard I’ve aquestion peating 1927. later, since we here been Minutes has had earlier been established in the U.S. by by U.S. the in established been earlier had immigrants Sicilian some 1900, how, around unique,” then launches into a discussion of of adiscussion into launches then unique,” second floor,” says Liddy, pointing to a two- to a floor,”Liddy, second pointing says since arriving in Dublin. When I explain Iexplain When Dublin. in arriving since some Irish immigrants. I could ask if this this if ask Icould immigrants. Irish some because I’m not a talker. But Dubliners are. are. Dubliners But I’m not atalker. because bending them ….” them bending “Are you of Irish descent?” Liddy asks, re asks, Liddy descent?” “Are of Irish you E Whether that chatter is the cause or the or the cause the is chatter that Whether pluck of th of pluck E irish: Dublin A A P - P i t s t - - - - o p “Dawn-E-gawl! “Dawn-E-gawl! Volunteers now run Sweny’s as a reading areading as Sweny’s Volunteers nowrun 1847 and that Joyce wrote about in Ulysses in about wrote Joyce that and 1847 There, facing the busy traffic on Dame Street, Street, Dame on traffic busy the facing There, Ireland happened right here on the streets streets on here the right happened Ireland been “I’ve 1921. in ended that Independence Park, a modern, 82,300-seat stadium, as we we as stadium, 82,300-seat amodern, Park, Prize winners for literature. James Joyce, Joyce, James for literature. winners Prize Liddy points out several “must-see” sites sites “must-see” out several points Liddy wasn’t among them, but he is celebrated celebrated buthe is them, among wasn’t don’t know, but Dublin boasts four Nobel four boasts don’t know, but Dublin of Dublin.” decades trying to convince people to spend spend to people convince to trying decades of Dublin’s history, from the Viking settle Viking the from history, of Dublin’s stretch of a1,200-year part on adifferent three or four nights in Dublin so they can can they so Dublin in nights or four three are chanting this all around me inside Croke Croke meinside around all this chanting are author of Ulysses of author mer apothecary that opened for business in in for business opened that mer apothecary in every direction, each of which touches touches of which each direction, every in for devotees. Joyce room most significant events in the history of all all of history the in events significant most War of Irish the to 800 year the in ments afor Sweny’s, meto takes Liddy So here. school founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I. I. Elizabeth Queen by 1592 in founded school spending the better part of the past three three past of the part better the spending see these sites,” Liddy says. “Some of the of the “Some says. Liddy sites,” these see - We walk on to Trinity College Dublin, a a Dublin, College Trinity on to We walk _ 0 H G T I _ A W Finnegans Wake Finnegans and Dawn-E-gawl!” People People Dawn-E-gawl!” 2 0 AA.COM/AMERICANWAY 1 3 0 9 1 5 - 0 4 5 . p - - . , d f A American capitalist in me wonders: Who Who mewonders: in capitalist American It’s the fastest game in the world.” the in game It’s fastest the on I’m here hurling. sport: national Ireland’s It’s violent. It’s fantastic. It’s violent. MacCann tells me, “you have to see hurling. hurling. see to have “you me, tells MacCann you want to really understand Ireland,” Ireland,” understand really to want you field, a bunch of guys with curved sticks try try sticks curved with guys of a bunch field, watch very pale men in very short shorts play play shorts short very men in pale very watch would agree to be hit with a stick gratis astick with hit be to agree would game, more than 2,000 years old and once once old and years 2,000 than more game, or bodycheck them to the ground. It’s hectic. It’s hectic. ground. the to them or bodycheck ball the has at whoever whack sticks curved to grasp the basics, which are, roughly: On On roughly: are, which basics, the grasp to the advice of Peter MacCann, the the MacCann, of Peter advice the to hit a rubbery, baseball-sized ball either ball baseball-sized arubbery, hit to to the Gaelic Athletic Association, which which Association, Athletic Gaelic the to a field more than twice the size of a football of a football thesize twice than a field more land and the fourth-largest in Europe. The The Europe. in fourth-largest the and land neck, in fact, that it takes me until halftime halftime meuntil it takes that fact, in neck, manager of the swanky Merrion hotel. “If “If hotel. Merrion swanky of the manager into a soccer-style net or through some goal some netor through asoccer-style into posts. Meanwhile, a bunch of other guys with with guys of other abunch Meanwhile, posts. stadiums like Croke Park, the biggest in Ire in biggest the Park, Croke like stadiums building and leagues youth through sport funnels money back into developing the developing into back money funnels front of thousands of paying customers? of paying of thousands front u It’s also not for profit. Admission fees go go fees Admission not for profit. It’s also He’s right about the pace. It’s break so pace. the about He’s right MacCann offers an explanation. The explanation. an offers MacCann g u s t 2 7 s , eptember 15, 2013 15, eptember 2 0 1 3 1 5 : 1 5 general general : 5 08/27/13 3:14PM 0 in in 45 - - - 09.15 Feature_Dublin.indd 46 That’s changed.” 46 E-gawl!”) only because I know the Irish Irish the Iknow because only E-gawl!”) Myrtle and Ivan Allen launched a local-food a local-food launched Allen Ivan and Myrtle been that’s restaurant Michelin-starred was a fuel, not a passion or an enjoyment. enjoyment. or an not apassion afuel, was country for a very long time. So here, food food here, So long time. for avery country co-owner : Why are people so so people are Why Clarke: Derry co-owner that buildings Georgian red-brick, of the think that means Donegal won. Donegal means that think Donegal.” sweet well, ye fare then an awkward question of executive chef and and chef of executive question awkward an Dublin of center-city part iconic an are and Roscommon. I go for Donegal (“Dawn- for Igo Donegal Roscommon. and “for played is disputes, of settling a means leery of the, ahem, cuisine of Ireland? “Irish “Irish of Ireland? cuisine ahem, of the, leery reads: “Donegal 3-20, Roscommon 3-16.” I Roscommon 3-20, “Donegal reads: movement from their County Cork inn and and inn Cork County their movement from match is between the counties of Donegal of Donegal counties the between is match pride in your county and love of the sport.” of the love and county your in pride In two old old two In says diplomatically. “Ireland was apoor was “Ireland diplomatically. says 1989. Iask Here, since dishes local serving afine-dining, Restaurant, L’Ecrivain sits food has had a bit of a … reputation,” Clarke Clarke abit of a…reputation,” had has food ballad “Mary from Dungloe.” It begins, “Oh, “Oh, It begins, Dungloe.” from “Mary ballad The shift began in the late 1960s, when 1960s, late the in began shift The Fare ye well, indeed. The final scoreboard scoreboard final The indeed. well, ye Fare Okay, but whom to root for? Today’s for? Okay, root but to whom se carriage houses behind a row arow behind houses carriage PT ember 15, 2013 15, ember A A P - P i t s t o p And at L’Ecrivain, you get complex dishes dishes complex get you at L’Ecrivain, And AA.COM/AMERICANWAY Clarke’s advice: Seek out eateries that, like like that, out eateries Seek advice: Clarke’s with the people who work the land — or the —or the land workthe who people the with good,” Clarke promises. Clarke good,” ers personally — down to the fisherman who who fisherman the to —down personally ers come can what showcase to Clarke like chefs inspired turn, in That, goods. better duce cooking at L’Ecrivain’s level but, to my shock, my shock, to but, level at L’Ecrivain’s cooking tapenade or the stupefyingly good Guinness- good stupefyingly or the tapenade - tradition and avant-garde at once are that that’s on the menu the night I visit. “It’s very “It’s very I visit. night menu on the the that’s there are many excellent meals to be found. found. be to meals excellent many are there and-treacle bread. aseaweed with lamb grass-fed like Irish, ally say, for. pay you what get you Americans as But, “expensive.” meaning phrase adorable restaurant, inspiring Irish farmers to pro to farmers Irish inspiring restaurant, reeled in some monkfish off the Dublin coast coast Dublin the off monkfish some in reeled ranchers. “Provenance is the key,” the is he says. “Provenance ranchers. his, celebrate Irish farmers, fishers and and fishers farmers, Irish celebrate his, sea. Today, he knows almost all of his suppli of his all almost Today, he knows sea. from that Irish farmland and to connect connect to and farmland Irish that from - American Airlines Dublin It’s also, as the Irish say, “quite dear,” an say, dear,” an “quite Irish the as It’s also, Most Dublin restaurants here aren’t here restaurants Dublin Most _ and and 0 H Chicago O’Hare Chicago from (year-round) (year-round) F.John Kennedy R international airports. R 8 _ A W offers nonstop service to to service nonstop offers 2 Park, about an hour outside of Dublin National Wicklow Mountains Library; Old Dublin’s College Trinity in Room Temple Bar Cultural the Quarter; Long Cel 0 1 TIC 3 0 C 9 harm: (seasonally) 1 5 - 0 The Temple Bar in the the in Bar Temple The 4 6 . p - - d f A The next morning, morning, next The Ireland to reach out to Irish émigré families families émigré Irish out to reach to Ireland Hotel in 1824. And Kelly, who is the Shel the Kelly, is who And 1824. Hotel in Kelly has put hundreds of people on the path path on the of people put hundreds has Kelly Dublin. in genealogist Helen Kelly, aleading where the beautiful people are,” she says. she are,” people beautiful the where with Kelly, I thought my Irish ancestors ancestors my Irish Kelly, Ithought with cials have dubbed “The Gathering” —ayear Gathering” “The dubbed have cials offi tourism which 2013, in busy especially came from County Cork. After Kelly inspires inspires Kelly After Cork. County from came the bar’s well-crafted cocktail list, I’m sur list, cocktail well-crafted bar’s the has which Bar, Horseshoe Shelbourne’s the the man who founded Dublin’s Shelbourne Shelbourne Dublin’s founded who man the home of ancestral the also was this tally, to uncovering their Irish roots and has been been has and roots Irish their uncovering to that’s probably because, until my meeting my meeting until because, probably that’s and his nephews, Donal and Tomas. At least, least, At Tomas. and Donal nephews, his and Uncle Ray eyes: on the easy so quite aren’t all over the world. the over all over all communities get to local long effort rounded by three native Dubliners who Dubliners native three by rounded - Coinciden Tipperary. from actually was ily me to do a little digging, I discover my fam Idiscover digging, doalittle me to perary haven’t sent me an invitation, but invitation, sent an me haven’t perary fetching. But, then, as I’m sampling from from I’m sampling as then, But, fetching. been serving drinks since the 1870s. “That’s “That’s 1870s. the since drinks serving been visit butler,” I must says “genealogy bourne’s u As far as I know, the folks in County Tip County in folks Iknow, the as far As The night I visit, the bar crowd is indeed indeed is crowd bar the I visit, night The g u s t 2 7 , 2 0 I have breakfast with with breakfast I have 1 3 0 6 : 5 9 : 4 5 8/27/13 6:57AM ------

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Tim ClayTon/Corbis; inseT: ronan lang THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: HOLGER LEUE/GETTY IMAGES; CHRIS HILL/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK; PETE RYAN/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK 09.15 Feature_Dublin.indd 47

TIM CLAYTON/CORBIS; INSET: RONAN LANG Doing Dublin TV chef Dylan McGrath would be at home in San San in home at be would McGrath Dylan chef TV The library’s dark-wood, main chamber, the Long Long the chamber, main dark-wood, library’s The get bawdy. get elaborately by monks around the year 800 and is is and 800 year the around by monks elaborately completed in the late 1180s by the Norman Norman by the 1180s late the in completed serves “Irish tapas”; the main room, which serves serves which room, main the tapas”; “Irish serves street plan from medieval times. At night, it can can it At night, times. medieval from plan street Temple Bar Cultural Quarter: artist galleries, tourist shops, restaurants and and restaurants shops, tourist galleries, artist all the museums the Irish government runs in in runs government Irish the museums the all mango or the soups served in shot glasses. shot in served soups the or mango of slice athin in wrapped crabmeat Irish the miss mains; or just have a drink at the rooftop bar. rooftop the at adrink have just or mains; pubs, this area maintains the original, narrow narrow original, the maintains area this pubs, Christ Church Cathedral: flatbreads and a few traditional, meaty Irish Irish meaty traditional, afew and flatbreads from 300 years of Viking settlements in Dublin. in settlements Viking of years 300 from Irish War for Independence are still said to haunt to haunt said still are Independence for War Irish www.fadestreetsocial.com www.rusticstone.ie www.tcd.ie/library/bookofkells www.heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/ www.christchurchdublin.ie www.dublinstemplebar.com www.museum.ie Francisco, especially with its raw menu. Don’t Don’t menu. raw its with especially Francisco, Room, is worth the visit on its own. its on visit the worth is Room, Dublin, has free admission. The archaeology wing wing archaeology The admission. free has Dublin, this hulking prison, built in 1796. in built prison, hulking this the church, is here — but Strongbow isn’t in it. in isn’t Strongbow —but here is church, the build helped who anobleman Strongbow, of tomb invaders who finally pushed out the Vikings. The is a highlight, featuring a plethora of artifacts artifacts of aplethora featuring ahighlight, is housed in the Old Library at Trinity College Dublin. Dublin. College Trinity at Library Old the in housed kilmainhamgaol Rustic Stone Restaurant: You can hit the GastroBar, which which GastroBar, the hit You can Social: St. Fade illustrated was manuscript gospel This Kells: of Book Kilmainham Gaol Museum: This like museum, Ireland: of Museum National SEE EAT This church was was church This This restaurant from from restaurant This The ghosts of the the of ghosts The A Chockablock with with Chockablock A P - P i t s t o p you’ll find original Victorian-era decor and some some and decor Victorian-era original find you’ll city, but there’s some fine mixology going on in in on going mixology fine some there’s but city, of the best music in the city. the in music best the of of the friendliest, most efficient barmen in Dublin. in barmen efficient most friendliest, the of where spot, this at whiskeys Irish of collection of Wicklow rival the scenery anywhere in Ireland, Ireland, in anywhere scenery the rival Wicklow of end food. In season, the foie gras with rhubarb rhubarb with gras foie the season, In food. end The Merrion: The HorseshoeBar: Sample from the extensive extensive the from Sample Head: Stag’s The The Westbury Hotel: Georgian town houses where the British general always easy to come by in this pint-and-whiskey pint-and-whiskey this by in to come easy always was born. was Waterloo at Bonaparte Napoleon bested who as does Glendalough, a valley town with two two with town avalley Glendalough, does as Street is unbeatable. is Street Grafton off right location the and appointed, well monastic settlement. It’s all best seen on foot. foot. on seen best all It’s settlement. monastic County Wicklow and Glendalough: puree is astandout. is puree O’Donoghue’s: from Dublin, the camouflage-colored mountains mountains camouflage-colored the Dublin, from www.walkaboutwicklow.com www.merrionhotel.com www.doylecollection.com www.marriott.co.uk www.odonoghues.ie www.stagshead.ie www.lecrivain.com Dubliners got their start in the ’60s still has some some has still ’60s the in start their got Dubliners Book a tour with Walkabout Wicklow. Walkabout with atour Book this bar inside the historic Shelbourne Dublin Dublin Shelbourne historic the inside bar this hotel. lakes and the spectacular remains of a medieval, amedieval, of remains spectacular the and lakes L’Ecrivain Restaurant: STAY DAYTRIP DRINK - _ 0 Irish food gets an upgrade at L’Ecrivain. at upgrade an gets food Irish (and stouts) abound at O’Donoghue’s. Authentic TOWN: sounds THE OF TASTES H R Serious luxury in a series of of aseries in luxury Serious R 9 This weathered pub where the the where pub weathered This _ A Unique cocktails aren’t aren’t cocktails Unique W Rooms are spacious and and spacious are Rooms Michelin-starred, high- Michelin-starred, 2 0 AA.COM/AMERICANWAY 1 3 0

* DUB * 9 1 5 Just an hour hour an Just - 0 4 7 . p d f — Uncle Ray buried his wife just the day before. day the just wife his buried — Uncle Ray “Hey, Sicilian guy,” Donal says to me. “You’ve “You’ve me. to says guy,” Donal “Hey, Sicilian “We’re havin’ a wake,” Tomas/Seamus says says Tomas/Seamus awake,” havin’ “We’re A JOSEPH GUINTO JOSEPH 6-foot-1, jabs at me about my height, which is, is, which my height, at meabout jabs 6-foot-1, I think it’s Tomas. It might be Seamus. The The Seamus. be It it’s Tomas. might I think I’d been to Wicklow that morning, led on led morning, that I’d Wicklow to been day. The next for the my plan that I make It’s what an Irishman does in the pub.” I tell pub.” Itell the in does Irishman It’s an what Dublin. Then, Uncle Ray, Donal and Tomas/ and Uncle Ray, Donal Then, Dublin. Tip- from great-great-grandfather my Ryan, For an hour, the brothers hurl insults at each at each insults hurl For brothers hour, the an N.Y.,Rochester, past for the he’s where lived way, I order a glass of Powers Irish Whis- Irish of Powers way, Iorderglass a well, it gets much worse. Unprintably worse. worse. Unprintably worse. much it gets well, just learned the craic!” craic!” the learned just called Walkabout Wicklow. “That’s a bloody abloody “That’s Wicklow. Walkabout called either the whiskey or the spirit of Patrick of Patrick spirit or the whiskey the either other and at Uncle Ray, who occasionally at Uncle Ray,occasionally who and other so there “He’s live got to jabs. Donal can,” thing gets real, then this is the rule: You rule: the is this then real, gets thing tryside is so nearby. The sea cli sea The nearby. so is s of Howth tryside that seems an impolite thing to say at a wake, at a wake, say to thing impolite an seems that this surly. “It’s just the craic,” Donal ex- Donal craic,” the surly. just “It’s this Seamus all break out into hysterical laughter. laughter. hysterical out into break all Seamus ah, somewhere south of his. At that moment, moment, that At of his. south somewhere ah, and fi ghting words. Maybe because I’m Sicil- fi because and Maybe words. ghting an astonishingly beautiful eight-mile hike hike eight-mile beautiful astonishingly an so minutes, 25 just in train by reachable are lot says. of e Donal trees,” some see to ort ian too.ian know where the door is, now get out.” get now is, door the where know them- introduce 50s, their in both nephews, mountains of Wicklow, just an hour’s drive drive hour’s an just of Wicklow, mountains hearing the sound of no one speaking in of no one speaking sound the hearing my own Ishout over, back and takes perary, about is who Iknow, Donal, thing key. Next he can have a fancy car and fancy house.” If If house.” fancy and car afancy have he can him that I’m Irish but that I would have no no have Iwould but that I’m Irish that him conversation. is “Craic again? Come plains. unprintably fi rejoinder. lthy unprintably suggest I get out of the city since the coun- the since city out get ofthe I suggest several years. “My brother, the rich Ameri- rich brother, the “My years. several of something. pints several with soaked been have that accents Irish heavy in selves south, are also mentioned. As it happens, it happens, As mentioned. also are south, craic the between is line the for where sense by Dairine Nuttall, a guide from a company acompany from aguide Nuttall, Dairine by bursts into song. into bursts thinking about changing his middle name to Ryan. to name middle his changing about thinking “Look, it’s easy,” Donal replies. “If some- “If replies. it’s easy,” Donal “Look, u There’s a pause. For the first time, I’m time, For first There’s apause. the Tomorrow, Tomas/Seamus heads back to to back heads Tomorrow,Tomas/Seamus I’ve never been to a wake this jovial or jovial this awake to been never I’ve Speaking of getting out, the nephews the out, of getting Speaking Since more of the craic is coming my coming is craic of the more Since g u s t 2 , a freelancer in Washington, D.C., is is D.C., Washington, in , afreelancer 7 SEPTEMBER 15, 2013 15, SEPTEMBER , 2 0 1 3 0 6 : 5 9 : 4 7 8/27/13 6:58AM 47