santotraveler.com

The informed travelers’ newspaper • #11 • June 2016 • Price: 2 €

June events Hot places to be Maps 2 guide u The PROTEUS project Goulas of Emporio Local cuisine Architecture of Oia Lighthouses Activities

June 2016

Read & keep, recycle or pass it on to another traveler... Photo Spot L A I R O T I D 0E 2 Santo Traveler June 2016

stars that start showing themselves, while the lights of the houses make the atmosphere mag - OPiiac its uonree o fo tfh et hmoes tm phoontotghraphed villages in ical! Whether you are at your hotel balcony or . From morning till night, the famous at the cobbled streets, just take deep breaths village offers plenty of colours, details and spots and feel the island energy. for everyone to admire, with the sunset being the most popular a2raction. www.santorinipictures.gr Just before entering Oia village and aſter the sunset, you can enjoy the deep blue sky and the

StheA inNforTmeOd tTravReleArʼsV nEewLspEapR er inspire them on their canvas. Publisher & Director: Nikos Psarros A truly popular destination You surely are in one of the most popular resorts A Norwegian 0iend organizes individual tours Editorial group: Carolina Rikaki, Yannis Papafiggos, Mari - of the planet. Do you think Santorini could be the and rides to various non tourist and off-the- etta Papathanasiou, Lefteris Zorzos, Evi Nomikou, Emily center of the world? beaten-track places of Santorini. Hooft, Doug Toomey, Nikos Boutsinis, Vangelis Paravas, According to 2015 statistics, 636 cruise ships ar - E. Efesiou, E. Konstantinidou, R. Lavva, Iossif Perros, Laura Foreign women who come or live in Santorini look Burgess, Ifigenia Georgiadou, Dolores Reyes-Pergioudakis, rived in Santorini and about 790,000 tourists had Yannis Pananakis, Christos Alexandris, Markos Valvis the chance to visit our island. If we take into con - aſter stray animals and have founded the San - sideration the ferries, high speed boats and air - torini Animal Welfare Association (SAWA). Communication: Gina Psarrou, Tereza Karvouniari planes too, then is estimated that more than Vlychada, Santorini, 84700 An American leaves her life and her Master's de - t: 22860 83481, client service: 6942895545 2,000,000 people came to the island. So, you are one of the lucky visitors of 2016. gree in special education and works in bars for the next 15 years in Santorini. She’s still in love supported by Santofriends Or maybe you are a repeater? Many visitors with (Santorini Friends Fan Club) different cultures give a yearly appointment in with the island! www.blog.santofriends.com Santorini. Some visitors’ personal history is closely santofriends tied to the island: Santorini’s energy is the 0iends’ inspiration. How about your inspiration? Owned & Created by A German 0iend brings groups of apprentice Nikos Psarros painters to the island. They sit with their equip - SANTOTRAVELER © 2016. All rights reserved. ment at the medieval castle of the village of Em - poreio for several hours to paint the spots that

Oia Oia definitely offers a stunning view to the volcanoes from the marble pedestrian street, as well as from the ruins of the old medieval castle. Don’t hesitate to stroll in the narrow alleys of the settlement in search of the best photo spot and the

0 twin blue dome churches of course. 6 3

I N I

R Thirassia O Well, don’t forget T that to complete the 360 tour of the N caldera you have to

A visit the neighbour island of Thirassia S for amazing views to the whole of Santorini! 04 Keep exploring! Santo Traveler June 2016 Akrotiri On the way to Akrotiri and the lighthouse at Faros, you can stop at the side of the road for a quick photo of the caldera from a south point of view.

Megalochori Moving on, you will find that Megalo - chori also offers quiet places for en - joying the view.

Scripts: Yannis Papafiggos Photo: Carolina Rikaki St. Markos On the way from Oia to , turn right before Imerovgli and go up the dirt road to St. Markos church where you can enjoy the view in peace! 0

Imerovigli 6 3 Imerovigli, also known as the bal - cony of Santorini, offers great I view since it is the highest village N

on the side of the caldera. Pick I your favourite spot at the rock of Skaros, or next to the luxury ho - R tels and the beautiful windmills! O T N A

Firostefani S Next stop is Firostefani and the much photographed blue dome church of St. Gerasimos. From Firostefani you can photograph all of Fira, the capital of Santorini. 05 Santo Traveler June 2016 Fira In Fira you can get great views from the area near the Santorini’s cable car and the square in front of the Metropolis. caldera 360 o

Welcome to the beautiful caldera of San- torini! After all that time you have been looking at the photos of Santorini and its unique caldera, you have finally made it and you are ready to “live” inside the post- card! Just a minor final issue to be resolved: Santo Wines where are the best spots of the caldera to take photographs and to enjoy the view? Moving towards Megalohori, almost in the middle of the Well, a good idea is to start exploring from island, turn right at Santo wines and North to South, constantly changing the enjoy the view with angle of the caldera and the view to the a glass of white As - syrtico wine or active volcano in the middle. sweet Vinsanto! 1 Zoodochos Pigi 3 This wonderful little church is tucked into the cliffs, right in the Pyrgos middle of the path between An - 1 cient Thera and . Its name We suggest you have an early means in Greek ‘The life giving morning coffee at a café in Pyr - spring’, justified by the fact that gos, before you make your way here lies the only freshwater to the top of the village. Same spring of the island. Right next to as with any other hike at this the church is the entrance to the time of the year, we suggest cave, where the spring drips its you start as early in the morning precious water into some very as possible. Walking through small natural and manmade the cobblestone streets of Pyr - pools. Explore it paying attention gos, you will at some points to the slippery surfaces and the have adequate protection from stalactites hanging above your the sun; the biggest part of the heads. path is exposed to the elements 3 Kamari of nature.

Ancient Thera 2 This is a settlement which was founded by Spartans during the 9th century BC. We would strongly suggest having a guided tour of the site with a licensed tourist guide, who will bring all the ruins back to life. Allow yourselves an 2 hour and a half to explore and enjoy the vistas, get a drink at the canteen located there,

Goulas Tower Castle

BUS TERMINAL

Camping

Emporeio Perissa

Trekking trail: Pyrgos - Profitis Ilias - - Kamari This is one of the oldest paths of the island and during its course, you will get to explore Pyrgos and its Vene- tian Castle. The path will then take to you to the top of mountain Prof- Perivolos itis Ilias, before descending towards Mesa Vouno – where Ancient Thera lies. Soon after that, you will reach Kamari and its wonderful black sandy beach.

Exomitis

Ca mp in g Pyrgos, Profitis Ilias, Ancient Thera, Kamari

“One of the oldest paths of the island”

Nikos Boutsinis www.santoriniwalkingtours.com SantoriniWalkingTours instagram: @santoriniwalkingtours G N I K

volcanic ravines, protecting farmers, Start your descent towards the northern K

shepherds and villagers from the harsh side of the mountain. After a few min - E The trail starts from the beautiful vil - weather conditions. utes you will reach Zoodohos Pigi lage of Pyrgos. Follow the steps lead - The soft rock layers full with ash and church. After exploring the church, the R ing to the heart of Pyrgos’ Venetian pumice, born from a massive volcanic cave and the ancient engravings of T Castle, and allow yourselves to capture eruption, are vine laden and full with names on the rocks clinging beneath the aura of this magnificent fortified wild herbs. The unique Theran soil pro - you, you will reach Kamari, and its settlement’s past. Strolling through duces very few but delicious products. wonderful black sandy beach. the village, you will discover white - If you look carefully at the arid land, Take a nice swim and before making washed houses, impressive mansions, depending on the time of the year, your way, you might want to make a cozy cafes, quirky galleries and shops. you will notice fields and terraces cov - stop at one of the little taverns located Explore the village and get on the an - ered with various crops. Barley, cherry right on the beach. Enjoy some tradi -07 cient path connecting it with the high - tomatoes, split peas (fava beans), tional Greek delicacies and savor the est peak of Santorini – Profitis Ilias. Santo Traveler white eggplants and of course vines moments you enjoyed while walking June 2016 The partially signposted winding path are waiting for the night mist to pro - on the gorgeous paths of Santorini. offers amazing views to the caldera, as vide them with its precious drops. well the surrounding Cycladic islands. After you have reached the top and If you follow it, you will have the the Monastery of Profitis Ilias, follow chance to truly enjoy a journey back in the sign towards Ancient Thera. You time, as well as stunning vistas to the will soon see from a distance one of entire . the least visited, yet so beautiful, sites From the very first steps, you will im - of Santorini. It is located prominently minently get a clear picture of what on the southeastern tip of the island, life used to be on the island thousands perched on the top of the Mesa Vouno of years ago. Exposed to the elements Mountain - its slopes plunging into the of nature, the land has been curved sea. Don’t miss out on the chance to into unique shapes. Scattered cave visit it. houses and churches are dug into the

The new and elegant Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria CONVIVIUM, located in Fira between the Central Square and the Caldera, assures and offers the highest quality and typical Mediterranean flavours. Our menus include a large selection of homemade pasta, fish, meats and dessert. Good wine list. Facilities: Wi-Fi, vegetarian, vegan & gluten free dishes. Available for weddings or business dinners. Goulas of Nimborio S

E m. [pl. Goulades]:

L The isolated medieval fortified

T towers in the Cycladic islands. S A Vangelis I. Paravas,

C [email protected] blog.paravas.net N The Goulas of Nimborio [b] stands at

A the north of the entrance of Empo-

E rio village in Santorini, on the foot of Profitis Ilias Mountain.

G It is a monumental medieval four- story fortress, now deserted for

E Up to date at least four dis- more than a century and on the construction periods

A verge of collapse. The Goulas of Nimborio is a unique architectural have been identified, Goulas was foreseen to be carried specimen of its kind, dissimilar to whereas during its original out since the end of 2013, by the municipality of Santorini, however other towers on the island, but anal - phases the tower had only ogous to other massive fortified con - there hasn't been any progress up to structions, erected during the era three levels and was consid- date, and the tower is at great risk 08 of Venetocracy (13th to 16th cen - erably smaller. of collapsing. turies CE) in Patmos island and the Santo Traveler Peloponnese. It is estimated that the Despite the already known facts for June 2016 the Goulas of Nimborio, there are tower was built somewhere between The first two periods lasted through- the 14th and 15th centuries CE, or out the Duchy of the Archipel- still many uncertainties regarding its even earlier, possibly preceding ago era, clearly reflecting the style exact uses, lords and inhabitants the Casteli, the other fortified, but and architecture of the similar Naxos throughout its history. communal settlement of Emporio vil - towers, constructed by the frankish lage. Although the original landlords and venetian conquerors. are unknown, during its early days the Goulas of Nimborio belonged to The 3rd construction phase com- the Darzenda, one of the oldest Ve - menced around 1701, as it is men - netian families [a], branches of tioned on a marble inscription which survive even up to day in San - embedded in the western wall of the torini. More recently (17th to 19th tower, long after the fall of the centuries CE) the tower was admin - Duchy to the Ottoman Empire in istered and used by monks of the 1579. This phase coincides with the Monastery of Patmos, which owned Patmos Monastery administration extensive land plots and vineyards on period, a fact indicated also by the the island of Santorini since 1608 style of the additions and works car - CE. ried out. Within this pe - Goulas was finally abandoned close riod Goulas acquired one more level to 1880, and ever since it has been and its two distinctive angled sup - decaying to ruins, victim to the per- portive outer walls, similar to the sistent Theran seismic and volcanic fortified walls of St. John’s activity, and eviscerated by locals, ex - Monastery on Patmos island. ploited as a source of constructing materials (stones), or as makeshift The 4th phase took place a few years barns and stables. later, during which the fortifications of Goulas were finalised by the addi - Throughout its centuries-long his - tion of one more characteristic an - tory Goulas has gradually reached its gled bracing wall on the northern final forms following multiple addi - side of the tower. Α study for the tions and construction phases. restoration of Post scriptum: Goulades [c] should not be confused with the Castelia, which were commu -

nal fortified citadels constructed dur - S ing the medieval times, and after the E establishment of the Duchy of Naxos, L and the fall and sack of Constantino - ple in 1204, during the 4th Crusade. T

In this era the Cycladic islands, San - S torini as well, were vulnerable to A piracy and exposed to recurring at -

tacks from numerous invaders. The C construction of such fortified settle - ments and towers aimed at the pro - N tection of the populace and the landlords from such attacks. A E G

[a] Nikos Chr. Aliprantis, 2004, “Ge - E nealogical History of Santorini”, “Thi - raika Nea” Publishing, Athens, pp 246. A

[b] Demetre Filippidis, 1986 “The Dar - genta tower on Santorini”, in: Se - lected Specimens of Greek Domestic Architecture during the Ottoman Pe - riod.,History of Architecture Research 09 Centre, NTUA, Athens, pp 260. Santo Traveler June 2016 [c] Dora Monioudi-Gavala, 2001, “The Development of Settlements from the Middle Ages int Recent Times”, in: Santorini, Thira, Thirasia, Aspronisi, Ifestia, ed. Ioannis. Mich. Danezis, ADAM /Pergamos Publishing Houses, Athens, pp 595.

948 by lished in 1 was estab our nt which e continue y restaura ant and w is a famil mi Restaur estaurant ed Thala Petros R 4 we creat nd we ily. In 198 perience a assaris fam ove and ex P today... add our l recipes. ition until oducts, we on family trad ose our pr it is based r support ay we cho idually, as ce and you Every d dish indiv ur preferen taste every er with yo Thalami restaurant reate and ile, togeth Petros fish tavern c and our sm ospitality today. ese years! Our h you until port all th Reservations t. (+30) 22860 71009 s close to e and sup m has kept u preferenc mail.co u for your urant@g t. (+30) 22860 71263 m. (+30) 6992277559 Thank yo miresta trosthala email: pe T

C Plumbing Reservoirs E

J Of The Earth Under

O Santorini R P

S Assist. Prof. Paraskevi Nomikou

U (University of Athens, Greece)

E and Profs.

T Emilie Hooft and Doug Toomey (University of Oregon, USA) O R P The island of Santorini in the eastern E Mediterranean is the source of nearby islands. Together, the on- The Lamont-Doherty Earth Observa - shore-offshore network recorded the tory, USA, operates the R/V Marcus

H Earth’s largest super-eruption in the past 10,000 years. T o investigate the seismic source of the research ship G. Langseth for the National Science T structure beneath this picturesque over 14,000 times. The scientists will Foundation. The seafloor seismome - but active volcano, a four-week-long now begin analyzing the data, which ters are designed and operated by seismic expedition was completed by requires many months of sophisti - the Scripps Institution of Oceanog - the United States of America (USA) cated processing. raphy, USA, and the Woods Hole Research Vessel Marcus G. Langseth Oceanographic Institution, USA. The and a team of international scien- Geophysical Instrument Pool at the 10 tists. During the ship’s transits German Research Center for Geo - Santo Traveler The expedition’s goal is to under - around the volcano, the sci- sciences and the University of Thes - June 2016 stand the deep roots, or magma saloniki provided the land plumbing system, of an arc volcano. entists also mapped new re- seismometers. Near the surface the structure of vol - gions of the seafloor. canoes is well studied. However, the magmatic system that lies deep in the crust (10-20 km down) remains The structure of faults and landslides poorly understood and difficult to between the islands of Santorini and study. Amorgos revealed themselves each Santorini, besides being an idyllic va- day. These measurements may help cation spot, is perfect for tackling resolve the enigmatic occurrence of the problem of imaging the deeper the largest 20th century earthquake roots of a volcano. It recently experi - in Greece (1956, M 7.5) and its ac - enced significant unrest due to companying tsunami. magma recharge, including inflation The international team of scientists of the ground and intense earth - includes Greek, British, and USA per- quake swarms. Since Santorini is a sonnel. The project is led by Prof. semi-submerged volcanic system, Emilie Hooft of the University of Ore - the seismic source of R/V Marcus G. gon, USA. The shipboard Chief Sci - Langseth can be used to collect a entists were Profs. Emilie Hooft and very dense 3D marine-land seismic Doug Toomey (University of Oregon, dataset. USA) and Prof. Paraskevi Nomikou The expedition was extremely suc - (University of Athens, Greece). The cessful and the unprecedented data onshore team included Profs. Joanna set will reveal the structure of the Morgan and Mike Warner (Imperial Santorini crustal magmatic system College London, United Kingdom) and its surroundings in 10 times and Prof. Costas Papazachos (Uni - more detail than any volcano on versity of Thessaloniki, Greece). The Earth. To achieve this goal, the sci - National Science Foundation (USA) entific team dropped 91 specially de - provided the majority of the expedi - signed seismometers to the seafloor tion’s funding (~$3M US). The Greek and installed another 65 land seis - and British scientists also con - mometers on Santorini and the tributed funding and resources. T C E J O R P

S U E T O R P

E H 11 T Santo Traveler June 2016

Assist. Prof. Paraskevi Nomikou (University of Athens, Greece) and Profs. Emilie Hooft and Doug Toomey (University of Oregon, USA) Architectural Analysis of Traditional buildings and complexes: OIA

By the National Technical University of Athens Teachers: Prof. E. Efesiou, Assistant Prof E. Kon - stantinidou, Assistant Prof. R. Lavva. Students: G. Moustaka, L. Demetriadou, E. Lyratzaki, S. Abatzi, I. Miltiadous, C. Shiakallis, A. Panagi, S. Stylianou, E. Bernidaki, K. Poulli, Sicot Laura, Paret Coralie, Reiter Felix. A I O

D L History O The settlement of Oia was originally known as “ApanoMe - ria” (=upper side) or “ Castle”, and was later named Oia in the ‘30ies. Oia experienced great economic development until the 19th century when its residents owned 269 ships. The ship owners constituted the powerful upper social class and this 12 can be discerned from their mansions on top of the caldera. Santo Traveler When the steam ships appear at the end of the 19th cen - June 2016 tury, the development of Oia is halted abruptly, as produc - tion units are relocated in other Greek cities, such as Piraeus. Oia suffered severe damages as the aftermath of the 1956 earthquake, when most buildings were destroyed and abandoned. From 1975 and until1995 the town was part of the preser - vation and development programme of traditional settle - ments, led by the Greek National Tourism Organisation. Ever since Oia has been developing and is now one of the most famous resorts in the world.

The School of Architecture NTUA places a lot of im- portance on heritage courses, so that the students get the chance to familiarize themselves with the cultural values we inherit; In that direction, the course of «Architectural Analysis of Traditional buildings and complexes», focuses on the study of architecture in traditional settlements introducing students to the analysis method of their architec- tural character. At the same time, students are given the opportunity to reflect on the values inherent in traditional settlements and realize the need for those values to be preserved. A general view of Oia shows a settlement with houses built in succession one above the other along the rim of the caldera.

The built environment is in perfect har - E mony with the impressive relief of rocks following the geological folds. R The local architecture derives from the U peculiar environment of the area, so The famous caldera slopes the dwellings have a direct interaction This part of Oia is built on the lower T

with it, while giving the impression part of the settlement and its main C that they spur from the volcanic soil. characteristic is its complicated struc - This impression is reinforced by the use ture, with winding paths and an un - E of the main building material, the clear separation between public and T Theran earth or volcanic ash, which is private properties. I the very soil itself. In fact, it seems that the houses and buildings in gen - H eral are an expansion of the landscape The upper area C where they are built. On the other hand, on top of the cliffs You can visit the “Traditional R the settlement expands in a com - Architecture of Santorini” exhi- pletely different fashion following a A different pattern. There is a more con - bition in Bellonio Foundation in ventional succession and a more logi - Fira. The settlement extends in two cal construction of the buildings. The facades are lined up one next to the areas, in the caldera slopes and other along the main road and they the higher, flatter area d e s i g n ate the two residential areas. Due to the flatter area and the Euro - 13 pean influences, the part of Oia with In the first one, we can see the Santo Traveler the Captains’ Mansions is built more yposkafa, which are simple workers' June 2016 meticulously and traditionally, accord - houses dug into the pumice. They de - ing to the Captains and Merchants’ veloped this way as it was easy to con - upper social class. struct them and thus, fertile land, Here the dwellings which could be cultivated, was saved. have clear outlines, Higher up, on the more level grounds with tall fences, stand the grand kapetanospita, the private yards and a Renaissance inspired captains’ man - formal look. sions which are a feature of the is - land’s neoclassical architecture. “Santorini” or Imerovigli

S Santa “Irini”? E

M The island you are

A now visiting has had N

many names over I the years. N I R Marietta Papathanasiou O T

N In the beginning, it was called joining Fira (the capital) and Stefani “Strongyli”, meaning “the cir- Akrotiri

A (wreath), as the two villages are al - cular one” because of its round most entwined. S shape, before the volcanic erup- tion of the 17th century BC. It was also called “Thera”, by Kamari the Dorian King Theras that in- The word “Kamari” means (some - habited the island and named it one’s) “pride and joy” in Greek. It after him. This is the official is one of the newest villages of the 14 name of Santorini now. island, built after the 1956 de - Santo Traveler And of course, it was also structive earthquake that hit San - June 2016 known as “Kallisti”, meaning torini. It may in fact be the the most beautiful one - for ob- residents’ pride! vious reasons! Kamari Imerovigli The name Santorini is first used The name of the village comes around the 12th century A.D and from the Greek words imera = day derives from Saint Irene, the patron and vigla = lookout. The inhabi - saint of the island, and from the tants of the island had to watch small church named after her in out for the pirates that frequently the village of Perissa, built in the raided the island, and what better 5th century A.D. place to do it than Imerovigli? So, what about the rest of the vil - lages? Where do their names come from? Or maybe you have already guessed…. Emporio Emporio Firostefani The word Emporio in Greek means trade. This village in Santorini got It’s a compound word, formed by its name by being the trading cen - Firostefani ter of the island in the past cen - turies – trading even with the pirates!

Akrotiri It is the Greek word for “cape”. The village was called Akrotiri be - cause, obviously, of its geographi - cal location. Meet Megalochori

Megalochori or Megalochorio is a I R village whose O existence is recorded H

from the mid-17th C century. O Iossif Perros L Historian - Researcher A G

It is considered one of the most there is a constant effort to revive E traditional villages of Santorini and and preserve the customs and tra - ditions of the place. Among these

has interesting history. The village M name (“megalo chorio” means traditions, some stand out: Easter “big village” in Greek) probably Traditions, Wedding Customs but comes from the great extent of the also the local “festivals”, when the vineyard that surrounds the small patron saint of a church celebrates. village. 15 It has old houses, dug-in canaves Santo Traveler (traditional wineries) and houses June 2016 built according to local architec - ture. In the past, the inhabitants were initially farmers and then sea - men, and they contributed signifi - In the village there are more than cantly to the sale and popularity of 30 churches, isolated beaches the Santorinian wine abroad. and unexplored paths.

Megalochori is the birth place of University Professors and Orthodox Church Bishops, and even today

10 % Discount with this Coupon

Megalochori • Santorini • 84703 Reservations t.: 22860 81603 marmita restaurant santorini Useful Phone Numbers (International country code for Greece: +30…) B. Katharos • Buses: 22860 25404 I • Taxi: 22860 22555 N

I • Cable Car: 22860 22977 Ammoudi

R • Hospital: 22863 60300 Oia and Ammoudi

O • Port Authority: 22860 22239 Riva T • Airport: 22860 28400 Isl. Thirasia N • Police: 22860 22649

A • Fire Brigade: 22860 33199 S Manolas Korfos F O P

A Legend Active Volcano

M main road

second road Fira overlooking the Caldera

trekking trail

16 Beach Santo Traveler June 2016 arcaeological site Isl. PA

airport

port Isl. Aspronisi Parking

camping

gas station View from Megalochori

Faros

1 C. Mavro Voun C. Mavropetra B. Baxedes

B. Paradisos B. Kolumbos C. Kolumbos

B. Katharos Oia Finikia B. Pori I N I Ammoudi Bay Amazing villages R O Riva

B. Xiropigado T Isl. Thirasia B. N A

Imerovigli S Manolas Vourvoulos Korfos F

C. Tourlos O

Firostefani P FIRA Active Volcano A B. Monolithos

1 M Isl. Karterados

C. Alonaki Mesaria 17 Santo Traveler June 2016 Isl. PALIA KAMENI Vothonas

Exo Gonia Athinios Port B. Avis

Isl. Aspronisi Pyrgos Episkopi Megalochori B. Kamari Gonias Zoodochos Pigi Ag. Georgios Kamari C. Therma B. Gyalos Profitis Ilias C. Loumaradi Ancient Thera B. Balos

Akrotiri Emporeio Faros Perissa

B. Mesa Pigadia Excavations C. Mavro Vouno B. Perissa B. White

B. Kambia Red Beach B. Almyra Perivolos

B. Perivolos B. Vlychada

C. Exomitis

Archaelogical sites Black beaches M S I Have you ever R

U thought of learning

O and T getting in contact L with Greek Culture? A N O

I Ifigenia Georgiadou T A C

U Greek language, with its rich In terms of learning a foreign lan - satisfaction coming from their own tradition and masterpieces in lit- guage, culture is not just a stage selves, either because they decided D erary and philosophical works, is during a lesson. Learning a language to learn a difficult, almost exotic lan - E very attractive, even more so is an invitation to a culture in itself - guage or because their friends and because many words of Greek in order to use the rich cultural re- acquaintances admire them. Usually origin are located in other lan- sources, and join, as a fictional citi- the skill to concentrate and collect guages zen, this new culture. Accordingly, a their spiritual forces to learn new journey is always a journey to the things, especially when one is not on language and culture of the Other, the learning path for long time, 18 Teaching a foreign language in the as is a trip to Ourselves. gradually decreases with age. Partic- Santo Traveler place where it is spoken is essentially ipating in language courses June 2016 an invitation to travellers to partici - strengthens their self-image, they pate to a cultural trip. It is a journey feel richer in experiences and are ul- which will remove them from their timately empowered psychologically own "centre of the world", which is Characteristics of the (Weiler and Hall, 1992, 8-9). usually their country or their city, travellers Strangely enough, some of those and bring them in contact with the who insist on learning a difficult lan - authenticity of another culture guage are people who experienced (Cohen, 1979). Greece, with its rich Let us see in short the profile, i.e. the some learning difficulties as children. culture, has a lot to offer in this characteristics, needs and expecta - search. tions of the travellers who decide to learn a language: Usually adult students of a foreign language come to Greece from all over the world, mainly from Western Europe and USA, and are either phil - hellenes of any profession, or expa - triate Greeks. Some of them are teachers or students of ancient and Modern Greek in their countries. They are educated, multilingual and have visited Greece on average 5-6 times at least. The age vary but the average is 45-55. There are many people who learn a foreign language at their 60s or 70s, as we all know now that learning a language is what keeps our brains alive!

In empirical research (Georgiadou, 2003) on reasons why many adults learn Greek as foreign language today we can see their desire to feel M S I R U O T

L A N O I T A C Their satisfaction is, in this case, even larger and they feel even more em- powered for their learning success. U D On the other hand, learning a language along with the contact with culture of people who speak this language creates relaxation, offers the feeling of E escape from the world of (forced - alienated) labour, and a sense of control on our life and on the experiences that life offers (Chen , Petrick & Shahvali, 2014). Language students often say: "You can’t imagine how much I need to devote myself to Greek and forget everything else” or," the most impor - tant for me is to just forget myself in the language. Greek is ... my treat - ment! ". 19 Santo Traveler June 2016 In Santorini the HELLENIC CULTURE CENTRE www.hcc.edu.gr , a leading organisation for learning Greek, has already started its language and culture programmes. We wholeheartedly suggest this experience!

References Chen C.C., Petrick J., Shahvali M., “Tourism Experiences as a Stress Reliever - Examining the Effects of Tourism Recovery Experiences on Life Satisfaction”, Jour - nal of Travel Research August 12, 2014 Cohen Ε., “ A Phenomenology of Tourist Experiences ”, Sociology May 1979, vol. 13 no. 2 179-201, 1979 Georgiadou I., “Individualised learning in multinational classes of Greek as L2 through the Project Method: the example of integrating cultural and intercultural aspects in the language classroom”, Proceedings of the 6th International Conference on Intercultural education – Greek as L2, 2003 Weiler B. & Hall C.M., “Special interest tourism”, Belhaven Press, 1992 An American in Santorini: R

E “5 Lessons I've

V Learned From E The Greeks” 4

I N

I Laura Burgess http://www.laurahamburgers.com/ R @Laurahamburgers (Instagram) O T

N everyday, it’s invaluable to give them my ear people have given me or found on the side or advice if they need to talk about some - of the street. In addition to saving money, A 1. Material Things Are Not thing. I believe when the emphasis on mate - these are projects I love because of the sense S Important rial possessions is taken away from the of accomplishment at the end. It gives things equation, as I’ve experienced in Greece a lot character when I can say, “I made that.” One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned while of the time, there’s more value on creating living in Greece is not to put value on mate - friendships, supporting one another, and pro - rial items. Whether it’s an abundance of pres - viding favors that are always returned. It’s ents at Christmas or on birthdays, Americans comforting to know that someone always 3. Hospitality 20 tend to put an emphasis on materials to has my back and that makes me happy to do show someone you love and care about Santo Traveler the same. June 2016 them. While I love giving someone I care Greek people pride themselves on their hos - about a gift, I realize now it’s not so impor - pitality skills and for good reason. They are tant. Showing a loved one you care can be 2. Being Crafty & known for their kindness and generosity and displayed in different ways like inviting one having witnessed these traits on more than over for a coffee or for dinner. Even the sim - Creative one occasion, I can attest to that. Everyone ple act of supporting family or a partner by greets me hello and goodbye with two kisses, lending a hand when they are sick or being one on each cheek. They mean it when they happy for them as they celebrate an exciting This would definitely tie into not placing em - say they want to get a coffee and just chat. life goal is showing you care. Support and phasis on material items, but Greeks are Everyone is interested in where I’m from, ob - love come from just simply being there for some of the craftiest people I’ve ever met. In viously not Greece, and what I’m doing here. one another. a situation like needing to furnish my home, Even strangers are quick to smile and say Especially with someone whom I may see my first thought would be to go to a furni - hello. The lady who works at the coffee shop ture store or a second hand store and buy now gives me the local discount, having seen something. The Greeks first thought is how my face many times. they are going to make what they want. I’ve I was fortunate enough last year to be invited seen comfortable and cozy couches made on a week long walking tour to three differ - from pallets, dried seaweed, and a blanket. ent Greek islands, Amorgos, Naxos, and Irak - One of my friends made an elegant outside lia, all in the Cyclades. While in Amorgos and patio table for her villa from a picture she saw walking through a village, which was the online. And some people make a living by start of an ascent to the top of the mountain, carving sculptures out of pumice from the an elderly woman from the village invited my beach. group in to see her home. She had conve - In Santorini, people really take advantage of niently prepared loukoumades, a traditional what’s around them in the environment, Greek donut, and rakomelo, a liquor drink from nature to another person’s trash, and mixed with honey, which she so kindly of - utilize it to their best ability by making any - fered us. It was the start of a long hike and thing and everything, often referred to as her treats could not have been more perfect. “up cycling.” And if they’re really creative, She was so nice, giving us a tour of her home they will use their craft and skill to make a liv - with old pictures lining every surface. After, ing. we stuffed ourselves full of loukoumades and rakomelo and before my group left, the Now, I find myself making curtains from scrap woman brought out flowers, made from an fabric and sanding and painting old furniture old t-shirt and pipe cleaners and gave them minimum. In Greece, if I’m passing an ac - to each woman in my group. quaintance while I’m out, which happens A trip to Greece would not be complete quite often, and I ask how their day is going, without an experience like that one. It’s quite I better expect an honest answer. Whether R common for a Greek to invite you into their it’s good or bad, they will tell me about it E home so casually, for coffee or for a drink. It’s with no filter. It’s quite refreshing and real to just their hospitable way. hear the truth. There’s no sugarcoating; it V

just is what it is. E 4. Using Direct

5. Patience Is Key Because 4 Communication Island Time Is Real I

At least in my experience, Americans tend to N I be indirect when it comes to communicating, For those who know me well, I’m not the often incorporating passive aggressiveness or most patient person, especially when it R subtle hints to get the intended message comes to waiting on others. Yet, every day in across. I find this irritating in many ways, Santorini I find myself "patiently" waiting for O

mostly because I’m left guessing. Just like a someone to meet me even though I'm on T lot of other Europeans, Greeks are not shy time or waiting off to the side while friends about saying how they feel. They will tell you catch-up. It seems that all events start at a N if you made them happy or upset or if they later time than specified. Everything runs at A need or want something, they will just ask. a more relaxed pace so patience I’ve learned,

Even if my outfit looks bad, they will mention is key to staying calm. S perhaps I should change. And they expect Unlike in America where it seems like every - the same in return. Greeks become uneasy one is always in a rush, the Greeks take a laid- when it comes to indirect communication. back approach and don’t feel the need to be They respect and appreciate directness. on time, all the time. If someone is late, they are just late and there’s nothing you can do During my time in Santorini, I’ve heard many about it. More often than not, my days never 21 stories of bad days and how the island stress go as planned because something unex - Santo Traveler is getting the best of someone. If my partner pected comes up or things take a longer time June 2016 is mad or upset with me, there’s no holding than I accounted for. back. Most of the time, I appreciate hearing However, despite the lateness and playing what he has to say, but I’m not so much a fan the waiting game, my days always work out of the direct communication style when he for the best. I’ve learned not to rush because tells me “I tend to interrupt people.” I guess the other person is probably running late, too we all have room for a little self-improve - and while I wait on whatever and whomever ment. it may be, I make use of that time by trying to Living most of my 26 years in NC, USA, I only learn some Greek. Sometimes, I simply just heard about bad days and stressors from relax, admire my surroundings, and embrace close friends and family. If I was upset with the Greek way of life. someone, I would perhaps discuss it with someone other than the actual person whom I am upset with, but even that was kept to a

KAPARI TAVERNA: Mediterranean cuisine Mediterranean cuisine is the food from the cultures adjacent to the Mediterranean Sea. Although this region spans a wide variety of cultures, the historical connections of the region, as well as the impact of the Mediterranean Sea on the region's climate and economy, have led to there being many common elements in the foods. Kapari taverna Grandmother's Fira - Santorini - Greece (main road Fira - Firostefani) recipies T. +30 22860 27086 Our foods are based to old, traditional santorinikapari recipies, our grand - www.santorinikapari.gr mother's recipies! E S U

O In Search of

H T

H Light G I L

Dolores Reyes-Pergioudakis N A E

G that we would have to stay overnight on lighthouse, and both his grandfather and fa -

E I was on a mission to locate the southern- Island equipped only with a backpack ther were present when the Germans most lighthouse in Greece for the book “The and camera equipment. bombed and destroyed the original light - A Lighthouses of Greece”. After exploring the I recognized a man that had driven a bus house. I asked if he could arrange a meeting lighthouses on the very large island of Crete, onto the ferry and asked him if it was possi - with his father, because we were doing re - my British friend, Liz and I, drove South where ble to get to the lighthouse and back in 30 search for a Greek Lighthouse book. He said we would begin what we expected to be a minutes. The bus driver, Dimitris, told me that unfortunately his father was hospitalized day-long excursion. Planning to stay the that it was impossible. Panic struck again! on Crete Island, but might possibly return the night on Crete, we located a lovely room that We did not travel from the mainland to Crete following day. He would set up a rendezvous 22 seemed to float over the water. We bought Island overnight, drive all the way from the and asked us to meet him that evening to Santo Traveler tickets for the ferry to Gavdos Island. Deter - north to the south of Crete Island, then ferry confirm for the next day. June 2016 mined to find the lighthouse, off we em - over to Gavdos Island and end up not getting barked with camera and tripod in hand. a photo of Gavdopoula Lighthouse for the Liz and I rented a room for the night and After the ferry took off, I heard an an - book! The photo was definitely more impor- awaited word from George. We arrived at nouncement that the ferry would remain on tant than having a suitcase; so it was decided the Mermaid Taverna, which had candle-lit Gavdos Island merely for 30 minutes and that we would unexpectedly remain tables on the beach. The only light came from would then return. Panic struck! Would we overnight on Gavdos Island. the kitchen and sounded as if a generator make it to the lighthouse and back? From a was producing the electricity. George arrived map, I could see that the lighthouse was lo - Staying overnight was not the only hurdle in with good news. His father was due to arrive cated in the center of the island. The prob - reaching the lighthouse. Dimitris told us that the next morning, and we could meet and in - lem was that I didn’t know the size of the the bus route did not reach the lighthouse lo - terview him for the book. island. We had considered neither the option cated at the summit of the island. He offered We returned to our room, but were surprised that the ferry would return so quickly, nor to give us a ride on his bus to a car rental to find that the light switch didn’t work. We place, since it was quite a distance from the looked outside and it was pitch dark. The port. We gladly accepted his offer. whole place was dark. A woman heard us Without the presence of road signs, we used and approached us. “ Don’t you know this is- our sense of direction to navigate through land has no electricity? That is the attraction the few dirt roads on the wobbly wheels of of the island! That is why I come here. If you the rental car to the island’s summit. We don’t like it, then you can leave.” “Wow,” were thrilled to find the Gavdopoula Light- we thought, not only did we not have clothes house Museum, which was a replica of the to change into, we would also have to take a original lighthouse. The beacon was perched shower in the dark and feel our way around on a skeleton metal tower to the side of the the room. It was certainly Greek to us! museum, and not in the actual light room of The obstacles were well worth it. We met the tower. Artemis Damorakis, 87 years old, in 2008. He I recalled being told by a historian at the explained that the previous week he had al - Lighthouse Service Headquarters that one of most died in the hospital, but felt that today the oldest lighthouse keepers alive was lo- was a new day and he was happy to meet us cated on Gavdos Island. I asked the caretaker and share information about the Gavdopoula of the museum, George, if he knew anything Lighthouse. He recalled his active years at the about that keeper. To my absolute delight, lighthouse before it was destroyed in World he said that it was his father! He also told us War II. There were eight light keepers, who that his grandfather was a keeper at this rotated duty, with four keepers always on E

station. That was an unusually large amount S of staff for a Greek lighthouse, but it was a critical point for navigation and also a fueling U station for ships. He recalled the supply ship coming only once a year, and a donkey carry- O ing everything from the ship landing to the H lighthouse. He spoke of inspections, punish - ments to those who were found asleep on T duty, and rainwater stored in cisterns for later H use that was never wasted. He spoke of the

daily “housekeeping” duties of a lighthouse G keeper, including washing, cooking, garden - I ing and fishing. L

He recalled the winds, earthquakes, and N lightning striking the lighthouse. There was

a lot of damage, but the most devastating A blow happened during World War II. The E Germans invaded Gavdos Island and deto - nated explosives, which set the lighthouse on G fire. A full year’s supply of petroleum had just E been delivered, so we could only image the To Santorini CRETE horrific site of the lighthouse station burning A for three days. After the lighthouse was destroyed, Artemis and his brother went to fight the Germans. He survived the war, but his brother was killed. Artemis returned to Gavdos Island after the war, and found the lighthouse ru - ined and replaced by a metal tower with a 23 GAVDOS ISLAND light on top. He was glad to see the structure Santo Traveler authentically rebuilt in 2003. June 2016 The Gavdopoula Light has been serviced by three generations of the Damorakis family. Emanouel “Manolis” Damorakis was the first to serve as keeper in the early years of the Note: You can learn about Greek light - 20th century, then Artemis served until the houses in “The Lighthouses of Greece” by lighthouse was destroyed, and now his son, Elinor DeWire and Dolores Reyes-Per - George, is the caretaker of the museum in gioudakis, available through Amazon. ISBN: the replica lighthouse…… Now that’s a Greek 978-1-5614-452-0 Lighthouse family! orini, Nea The active volcanic island of Sant while the Kameni, hosts seven craters s, named largest crater is called Georgio

after the former king of Greece. The lively colors of the frescoes in the cient cit an- y of Akrotiri are still s vividly pre - erved to this day, W 3500 years later, because the ash of the Minoan volc eruption anic O in the 17c. BC covered and tected pro- them from corrosion. 01 N K

Y 06 O

Y ber (the Archangels Michael On 8 Novem es place in and Gabriel name day), a fair tak D ll church in Nea Kameni I a sma D

Greece is the third top wedding destina - tion, after Italy and France, for couples 04 24 wishing to get married abroad. SantoTraveler June 2016

The 03 amazing rock formations side (Kartera on the east dos beach) a (Vlychada nd south si beach) of th de sult o e island are f corrosion o the re- w f pumice due inds and rain to strong

f of the 19th century During the second hal such as the Suez many harbour works 02 nstanta, of Chios is- Canal, the ports of Co nd of Piraeus as well land, of Syros island a nth were built with as the Canal of Cori from Santorini Thiran Earth extracted The three main varieties of white wine character ized as PDO Santorini (Protected designatio n of origin) are Assyrtiko (85%), Athyri and Aidani (14%). Other varieties, at smaller percentages are Gaidouria, Kat - 07 sano, Platani and Potamisi.

05

World Trivia

• The Shortest place name is ‘Å’ and it is E located in both Sweden and Nor - M

I way. sent in 1971. T • There are the 17 • 95% of the seas is

Y active volcanoes in still unexplored. Japan N • The first country

N • Only female mos - where women quitoes will bite voted was New U you. Zealand (1893) F • The sum of all the • French eat 500 numbers on a million snails a year. roulette wheel is 666. • A camel can drink 26 200 litres of water • Jacuzzi is a brand in 15 minutes. SantoTraveler June 2016 name. You can also buy Jacuzzi toilets • Only 2% of world and mattresses. population are blond. • The first email was

FIND THE HIDDEN WORDS & DISCOVER SANTORINI!

AKROTIRI CHURCHES COASTLINE CRUISE FIROSTEFANI THIRASIA VINEYARDS VINSANTO VOLCANO Eel in Greece Smoked Eel E

on Lentil N I S

Salad I U To Psaraki

[email protected] C www.topsaraki.gr L A

Ingredients (for 4 persons) C Preparation Eels in Greece • 200 gr large lentils O • 200 gr smoked eel Boil the lentils with the laurel We always choose a Greek eel. Eels L • 8 cherry tomatoes (from San - leaves until they are tender. Drain live in river deltas and in lagoons, so them and add salt, pepper, they can be found in salt, fresh and torini if possible) oregano, oil, vinegar while they are brackish water, most commonly in • 1 big onion still warm. Amvrakikos Bay, Lake Vistonida and • 4 slices of bread Chop the tomatoes, the onion, the Vatopedi. The fillet is sliced from the • Oregano parsley and the dill and add some fatty adult eels and has been a deli -27 oregano. Mix them with the warm • Parsley cacy since ancient times. Santo Traveler lentils and serve in 4 plates. Place June 2016 • Dill the toasted slices of bread over the • 2 Laurel leaves lentils. • 2 Scallions Grill or fry the eel for a few sec - • Olive oil onds and place it over the slices of bread. Place the cherry tomatoes The recipe is provided by chef Thanasis • Vinegar and the chopped scallion around Sfugaris from the quality food restau - • Lemon the bread and pour some olive oil rant “To Psaraki” (the small fish) which • Salt & Pepper and lemon over the eel. Bon Ap - overlooks the fishing port of Vlychada. pétit!

To Psaraki [email protected] www.topsaraki.gr Vlychada, Santorini, 84700 t: 22860 82783 Heatstroke (Sunstroke)

“Heatstroke is caused by a failure in the thermostat in the brain”

MDr. Markos Valvis Ear, nose and throat specialist Fira, Santorini (opposite the post office) t. 22860 25559, m. 6977748754

H [email protected] T

L person is unconscious but breathing normally

A place them into the recovery position. Please Heatstroke is caused by a failure in the Treatment Your aims are to lower the person's body refer to the relevant tips.

E thermostat in the brain. This regulates body temperature. The body then be - temperature as quickly as possible and arrange urgent removal to hospital. H comes dangerously overheated usually due to a high fever or prolonged expo - • You need to quickly move the person to a sure to heat. cool place and remove as much of the outer clothing as possible. Heatstroke can also result from the use • Call an ambulance. of drugs such as ecstasy. • Wrap the person in a cold wet sheet and keep the sheet wet until the temperature In some cases, heatstroke follows heat 28 falls to 38°C (100.4°F), under the tongue or exhaustion, when sweating ceases and Santo Traveler under the armpit. the body then cannot be cooled by the June 2016 • If no sheet is available, fan the person or evaporation of sweat. Heatstroke can develop with ver sponge them down with cold water. Once the person's temperature appears to have re - Recognition turned to normal replace the wet sheet with The symptoms may include: a dry one. • Always monitor and record the vital signs, • Headache. the level of response, pulse and breathing • Dizziness and discomfort. rate until help arrives. • Restlessness and confusion. • If the temperature starts to rise again re - • Hot, flushed and dry skin. peat the cooling process. • A rapid deterioration in the level of re - • Caution though: if the person becomes un - sponse. conscious, open the airway and check breath - • A full bounding pulse. ing and be prepared to give rescue breaths • A body temperature above 40°C (104°F). and chest compressions if necessary, or if the

The best spot for hairdressing, nail services, waxing, massage, sauna and makeup. Exclusive wedding packages!

Main Road from Fira to Pyrgos. Tel 22860 33678. Fz Beauty Salon and Spa

Agenda

June 20:00 and will be accompanied by a concert by Angelika Dusk. Cultural and Educational Free entrance. In Santorini Arts Factory, Vlychada Tourism The Hellenic Culture Centre www.hcc.edu.gr, a leading insti - 4 June tution which is well known for Classical Music Concert Greek Language and Culture Two Greek musicians, a pianist courses, organises two-hour and a saxophonist, are giving an Greek language for beginners at your hotel and two-week Greek Lan - evening classical music concert. guage Courses. Presentation of Santorini, singing Greek songs, tradi - At Bellonio Foundation, in Fira. tional dance lesson, walks in Megalochori or from Megalochori to Free admission Pyrgos or Emporio, winery tours, visit to a local producer, ceramics les - E son, iconography painting workshop and many more.

R Tel +302286082820, +306944105484, Megalochori, 11 June opposite Geromanolis tavern. WKF Santorini Cup 2016 U “Greece vs Ukraine” T 16 WKF, Muay Thai and Kick Box - L June ing matches are held today Traditional Architecture of among Santorinian, Greek and U Santorini Ukrainian athletes, under the C The students from the Depart - auspices of the World Kickboxing ment of Architecture of the Na - Federation. At DAPPOS Sports tional Technical University of Center in Karterados. At 20.00 Athens exhibit their project on the unique and timeless archi - tecture of Santorini settlements. 12 June 30 At Bellonio Foundation in Fira. Cooking Contest Santo Traveler Daily 10:00-14:00 except Satur- Famous Greek chef Elias Ma - June 2016 day and Sunday. Free admission malakis is the judge at the cook - ing contest, where Pyrgos residents prepare traditional 4 June - 30 September recipes with local products. “ORANGE WATER” Exhibi - At the Cultural Village “Santorini tion and Concert of the Past”, in Pyrgos. ORANGE WATER Festival presents four exhibitions under the aus - pices of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism and the Netherlands Embassy. The exhibitions include painting, sculpture, videos and installations from major Greek, Dutch and international visual artists. The opening of the first exhibition takes place on Saturday 4 June at

Santorini calendar June 2016

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full moon on 20 June www.santotraveler.com June 2016

17-18 June 25 June Morfes Ekfrasis Book Presentation A theatrical play for children who Dr Sotiris Adamidis is presenting comment on the grown-ups way his poem collection entitled of thinking, with live music and “Pyrrazei gar o ouranos” (= Fire in special effects on stage. A story the sky). about refugees and children’s In Pyrgos adventures during war and peace. In Mesaria and Thirasia

21 June 30 June

Paraxenes Meres Fishermen Celebration S

The Greek rock group performs The annual celebration of the tra - T songs from their own album as ditional fishing methods that San - well as popular Greek and foreign torinians used takes place N

hits. tonight, with wine, music and E In Kamari dance for everyone. In Perissa, at 19.00 V E 23 June Famileia A music story about the past, tra - dition and families by Santorinian singer Manolis Fytros & his band. In Perissa 31 Note Santo Traveler Please bear in mind that the dates June 2016 and times of the events may change without prior notice. Daily updated information at: www.blog.santofriends.com