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The Evolution of the Cultural Landscape in Yellowstone National

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The Evolution of the Cultural Landscape in Yellowstone National The evolution of the cultural landscape in Yellowstone National Park's Upper Geyser Basin and the changing visitor experience, 1872-1990 by Karl John Byrand A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Earth Sciences Montana State University © Copyright by Karl John Byrand (1995) Abstract: National park landscapes have changed since they were first encountered as wilderness tracts and then subsequently adopted for special protection. The Upper Geyser Basin of Yellowstone National Park serves as a prime example of this evolution. This thesis investigates the primary influences on the cultural landscape of the Upper Geyser Basin, finding that it was shaped by the dictates and demands of park managers, concessionaires, and visitors. Specifically, landscape evolution was often a result of the changing values of these key shapers; these changing values and landscapes in turn altered the visitor experience. This thesis uses historical maps, superintendent reports, and National Park Service and concessionaire correspondence to reconstruct the development that took place on this landscape. It also relies on diaries, travel brochures, and guidebooks to reconstruct the experience that was sold to the visitor. The results should not only offer a greater insight into the changing values we place on our sacred and symbolic lands but also present park planners with a historical geographic narrative to assist them in planning future projects. THE EVOLUTION OF THE CULTURAL LANDSCAPE IN YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK'S UPPER GEYSER BASIN AND THE CHANGING VISITOR EXPERIENCE, 1872-1990 1Y Karl John Byrand A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Earth Sciences MONTANA STATE UNIVERSITY Bozeman, Montana December 1995 © COPYRIGHT ty Karl John Byrand 1995 All Rights Reserved /V318 11 APPROVAL of a thesis submitted by Karl John Byrand This thesis has been read by each member of the thesis committee and has been found to be satisfactory regarding content, English usage, format, citations, bibliographic style, and consistency, and is ready for submission to the College of Graduate Studies. / 2 - t F — Date Approved for the Major Department Approved for the College of Graduate Studies Date Graduate Dean STATEMENT OF PERMISSION TO USE In presenting this thesis in partial fulfillment of the requirements for a master's degree at Montana State University, I agree that the Library shall make it available to borrowers under rules of the Library. If I have indicated my intention to copyright this thesis by including a copyright notice page, copying is allowable only for scholarly purposes, consistent with "fair use" as prescribed in the U.S. Copyright Law. Requests for permission for extended quotation from or reproduction of this thesis in whole or in parts may be granted only by the copyright holder. Signature Q Date iv ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to thank the members of his committee—Dr. William Wyckoff (Committee Chairman), Dr. Joseph Ashley, and Dr. Susan Neel— for their advice; in particular, I am in debt to Dr. Wyckoff for his mentorship and close attention to my progress. I would also like to thank Lee Whittlesey of the Yellowstone National Park Archives for the help and schedule flexibility he extended; the support staff of the Archives for their kind assistance; the Yellowstone Center for Mountain Environments for its financial support of this thesis; and last but not least, my wife Sherri Byrand for her superb editing skills as well as her support. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page EXPLORING YELLOWSTONE’S UPPER GEYSER BASIN............................I Introduction............................ I Justification......................................................................;......................6 History of the Landscape...................................................................... 10 Literature Review........................... 17 Methods and Sources............................................................ 32 PERIOD ONE: 1872-1904............................... 36 Forming a Park Idea in Early Yellowstone.................................... 36 The Upper Geyser Basin.......................................................................43 Park Facilities and Infrastructure.......................................... ..44 Roads and Trails........................................................................49 Interpretation.............................................................................54 Concessions................................................................................ 57 Conclusions.......................................................................................... 87 PERIOD TWO: 1905-1940................................................................................. 89 Favoring Use Through Development................................................ 89 The Upper Geyser Basin........... ............................................................97 Government Facilities...............................................................97 Infrastructure............................................................................105 Interpretation...........................................................................107 Concessions...............................................................................125 Conclusions................................................................ 163 ) vi TABLE OF CONTENTS—Continued Page PERIOD THREE: 1941-1972...........................................................................167 Finding a Balance Between Use and Preservation...........................167 Upper Geyser Basin.............................................................................173 Park Facilities and Infrastructure........................................... 176 Roads and Trails...................................................................... 180 Interpretation...........................................................................185 Concessions...............................................................................192 Conclusions........................................................................ 202 PERIOD FOUR: 1973-1990 ............................................................................205 Focusing on the Ecosystem.............................................. 205 The Upper Geyser Basin..................................................................... 207 Park Facilities and Infrastructure.......................................... 207 Concessions.............................................................................. 215 Conclusions.................................................................................;......224 THE CHANGING VISHOR EXPERIENCE..................................................227 Perception and Personality of a Place................................................227 Period One, 1879-1904: For the Fire................................................... 233 Period Two, 1905-1940: For the Fun...................................................246 Period Three, 1941-1972: For the Feralness.......................................261 Period Four, 1973-1990: For the Four Seasons of I t ............... 270 For the Future.....................................................................................276 REFERENCES CHED 281 LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1. Map of Yellowstone National Park................... ;................................ 2 2. Map of the Upper Geyser Basin, 1880.................................................45 3. The Upper Geyser Basin Soldier Station........................................... 50 4. Map of the Upper Geyser Basin, 1904.................................................51 5. Coaches Crossing Riverside Bridge.........................................*.........55 6. Yellowstone Park Improvement Company's First Concession at the UGB............................................................61 7. The "Shack" Hotel................................................ ;..............................64 8. Interior of Old Faithful........................................................................ 73 9. Old Faithful Inn................................................................................... 75 10. Wylie's Upper Geyser Basin Tent Camp........................................... 80 11. Haynes's Upper Geyser Basin Studio.................................................84 12. Map of the Upper Geyser Basin, 1940............................................... 101 13. The Upper Geyser Basin Bear Feeding Grounds.............................HO 14. The Upper Geyser Basin Museum of Thermal Activity..................114 15. The Upper Geyser Basin Amphitheater.......................................... 117 16. West Wing of Old Faithful Inn:.:.........................................................131 17. Shaw and Powell Camping Company Office and Dining Room.... 136 viii LIST OF FIGURES — Continued Figure Page 18. Old Faithful Lodge..............................................................................139 19. Map of 1940 Cabins, Detail................................................................ 142 20. Yellowstone Park Company Camp Office and Cabins................... 145 21. Brothers's Bathhouse....................................................................... 156 22. Hamilton's First Store in the Upper Geyser Basin..........................159 23. Map of the Upper Geyser Basin, 1972..............................................
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