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FAR AWAY FROM 2 WILD & SCENIC RIVERS THE EVERY DAY 5 Where Vast Vistas Meet Mighty Mountains, rests a small town with major HOURS FROM DENVER vibes—Taos, New Mexico is an enigmatic playground for the senses 85 The eyes are gifted with dreamy views of infinite horizons, towering mountains and ART GALLERIES art around every corner, while the ears are flooded with sounds of the mighty Rio Grande and ever-present live music. The smell of mountain air is one you’ll pine for long after you leave, and the taste of authentic New Mexican cuisine will no doubt 1,000 have you longing to come back for more. Your fingers will long remember the feel of YEARS OF HISTORIC CULTURE adobe walls and the memories made under the impossibly blue sky will remain long after your tan fades. Leave your circadian rhythm and your minute-to-minute itinerary 594,000 at the door, follow your senses and you’ll end up exactly where you need to be. ACRES OF PUBLIC LANDS

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MUSIC TO THE EARS WHEN THE SNOW MELTS INSPIRATION STATION THE SCENIC ROUTE There are a handful of things that What happens to mountain towns Taos’ endless vistas, ethereal light When the journey is just as you can always count on when when the snow melts? In Taos, and soft color palette have served important as the destination, a visiting Taos – the sunsets here adrenaline junkies put away their as inspiration for artists like Georgia summer road trip to Taos is most cannot be beat and live music can skis and snowboards and take to O’Keefe, Ansel Adams and D.H. certainly the way to go. Before you be found every day of the week. the rivers and the trails. The Class IV Lawrence for generations. Lucky come to Taos, you ought to be in on Venues like Taos Mesa Brewing, rapids of the Taos Box are perfect for visitors, Taos is rich in places to a little secret: time is a loose concept KTAOS Solar Center, Taos Plaza for rafters and kayakers, while the express yourself creatively when here. In order to get used to the and Kit Carson Park host local and calm waters make for picture-perfect inspiration strikes. Craft your own relaxed pace, do yourself a favor regional musical acts for weekly fishing holes. Meanwhile, in the dreamcatcher at the 1,000 year-old and take the leisurely and scenic nights like Tuesday Night Blues, mountains, the hike to Wheeler Taos Pueblo or make your own U.S. Highway 285 from Denver Taos Plaza Live and Funky Fridays, Peak (New Mexico’s highest peak souvenir from scratch at a daily to Taos. This route traverses the in between hosting sold-out super at 13,159 ft.) could keep you busy pottery class at Taos Clay. And high desert and various mountain shows for larger acts like Mumford from sunrise to sunset, but we can when your masterpiece is finished, ranges, displaying wildflowers, and Sons and Alabama Shakes. promise you it would be a day well spend the rest of the day admiring wide open vistas, deep gorges spent. Those who prefer to stay off the work of the hundreds of artists and wildlife. The 5-hour drive will PRO TIP: Don’t miss Taos Vortex their feet but still want a breath of displayed in the dozens of museum fly by and before you know, you’ll (August 3-4), a two-day outdoor fresh air will find no shortage of and galleries around town. One arrive in town feeling as though you music and art festival featuring high horseback riding or mountain biking thing is clear – you can’t leave Taos traveled lightyears away to another profile musical acts like The Flaming trails. Whatever you decide, your without absorbing at least a hint of planet. The otherworldliness will Lips, Dr. Dog and Cashmere thirst for adventure is sure to be the creativity that’s in the air. most certainly give you plenty to talk Cat. Meow Wolf, a Santa Fe art quenched. about on the ride back home. collective, will be bringing its signature trippy art installations to its first ever music festival.

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{ FEATURES } { DEPARTMENTS }

GO WITH 6 FROM THE EDITOR 16 OFFSEASON 34 OUTING THE FLOW 8 ESCAPE THE Once the summer Colorado may not have CITYSCAPE travelers are gone, open water, but the state Evergreen boasts a vast you can have Jackson, and its neighbors are still trail network, a pristine Wyoming, mostly hotbeds for paddle sports lake, and a thriving arts to yourself. of all kinds. Whether you’re scene—and it’s all just 45 Katie LaSalle-Lowery/Big Sky Country Photos; Sarah Boyum a rafting rookie or a SUP minutes from Denver. 18 BACKPACKING specialist, we’ll show you PLUS how—and where—to make 10 THE HILLS ARE Prepare to rough it— a splash this summer. ALIVE... well, sort of—at Glacier BY LINDSEY B. KOEHLER With the sound of National Park’s historic music, theater, and more, Granite Park Chalet. 8 16 Courtesy of Krafty Photos; as mountain towns THE 5280 BY ELISABETH 44 expand their performing KWAK-HEFFERAN GUIDE TO arts venues. FOUR CORNERS 24 INSIDE EDGE Mesa Verde National Park is 12 OFF THE (VERY) Taos Ski Valley is carving a world treasure, but it’s not BEATEN PATH out a new future by the only thing worth seeing When Hanging Lake is leaning into the past— in the southwest corner of teeming with tourists, and Coloradans are Colorado—or in any of the try a nearby alternative. paying attention. three other states that meet BY AMANDA M. FAISON ours there. We found 31 14 SHOT ON additional reasons to make LOCATION 60 VIEWFINDER the 420-mile drive. Capture the perfect fall Introducing TPC BY KASEY CORDELL foliage photo with help Colorado, the state’s from these Colorado ﬁrst ground-up golf gear companies’ easy- course development access camera bags. in almost a decade. 18 ON THE COVER New Mexico’s Shiprock Cover: Keith Kapple/Alamy Stock Photo. This page, clockwise from top: Courtesy of OARS.; Cover: Keith Kapple/Alamy Stock Photo. This page, clockwise from

5280 (ISSN 10826815) is published monthly by 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1515 Wazee St., Suite 400, Denver, CO 80202. Subscriptions are $19 for one year (12 issues). Back issues are available for $5.99 plus tax and shipping by visiting shop.5280.com. Periodical postage paid at Denver, CO, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (see DMM 707.4.12.5). NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to 5280 Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 37270, Boone, IA 50037-4270. Canadian Post Publications Mail Agreement No. #40065056˝ Canadian Return Address: DP Global Mail, 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. 5280® is a federally registered trademark owned by 5280 Publishing, Inc. 5280 also owns trademark registrations for TOP OF THE TOWN, DENVER’S TOP DOCTORS, DENVER MAGAZINE, and COLORADO PARENT. © 2018 5280 Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. SLOW FOOD NATIONS July 13–15 From the Taste Marketplace and outdoor street café, to workshops and family fun, Slow Food Nations COLORADO CLASSIC & is taking over Larimer Square in downtown Denver. Kick it off with an VELORAMA FESTIVAL opening party featuring the best of August 17–19 Colorado, and connect with farmers, artisans, chefs and food lovers Denver will celebrate all things cycling when throughout the weekend. Colorado Classic, the pro bicycle race, returns for its second year, along with Velorama, its companion three-day music and cycling festival in Denver’s RiNo neighborhood. Taking the stage during Velorama are Glass Animals, Vince Staples, CRUSH Cold War Kids and more! September 3–9 Don’t miss CRUSH, Denver’s signature graffi ti and street DENVER FOOD + WINE art festival taking over the FESTIVAL RiNo neighborhood. Enjoy this curated outdoor gallery September 4–9 during the week-long celebration, with internationally renowned artists transforming the buildings and alleys Sip and savor your into a canvas like no other. way through the Denver Food + Wine Festival, a multi-day extravaganza of food, wine and spirits. Don’t GRANDOOZY miss the Grand Tasting, when award winning chefs showcase the region’s best fl avors, September 14–16 or Rise+ Dine, the annual brunch festival featuring breakfast delights, a Bloody Mary From the co-creators bar and, of course, mimosas. of Bonnaroo + Outside Lands, comes Denver’s newest music festival, GRANDOOZY. This three-day festival features Kendrick Lamar (Friday), Florence + the Machine (Saturday) and Stevie Wonder (Sunday), as well as art, food and more. Tickets are on sale now!

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EDITOR Daliah Singer SUBSCRIPTIONS Over-planning. I try to pack EDITORIAL too much in! A one-year subscription to 5280 DIGITAL EDITOR Erin Skarda costs $19 for 12 issues. A two-year subscription costs $34. Special MANAGING EDITOR Jessica LaRusso corporate and group rates are DIGITAL ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jerilyn Forsythe Leaving my available; call 303-832-5280 for animals (and finding DIGITAL ASSISTANT EDITOR Jay Bouchard details. To start a new subscription, to care for them). RESEARCH EDITOR Clare McCarthy Not having the renew an existing subscription, or to CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Spencer Campbell, Kasey Cordell, million-dollar travel change your address, call 1-866-271- Paul Cuno-Booth, Amanda M. Faison, Lindsey B. Koehler, budget I deserve. 5280 from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan, Jeff Waraniak through Friday and 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, or send an email ART to [email protected]. ART DIRECTOR Sean Parsons ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Amanda Croy Moving from work mode to vacation PHOTO EDITOR Charli Ornett LETTERS TO THE EDITOR AND CALENDAR mode overnight. ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Sarah Boyum Returning from vacation to Letters to the Editor must include CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Taylor Franta, Seth K. Hughes, inbox overload. your name and address (both of which Ryan McKinney, Glenn Randall, Scott Roberts, Eric Schuette can be withheld upon request) and a daytime phone number. Letters may be submitted via regular mail, fax (303- PUBLISHER Remy Spreeuw 832-0470), or email (letters@5280. ADVERTISING com). Calendar events should include a basic description of the event; its ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, DIGITAL MEDIA Andrea Bott time, date, location, and cost; and a BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Zach Wolfel phone number that readers may call SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Kate Dean for more information. Send calendar ACCOUNT MANAGERS Ari Ben, Molly Duran, Kate Long, Angie Lund Deciding where submissions to [email protected]. to go. CLIENT SERVICES COORDINATOR Shundra Jackson MARKETING SENIOR MARKETING DIRECTOR Carrie Horn WRITER’S GUIDELINES With kids, the airport MARKETING & EVENTS MANAGER Piniel Simegn transfer can be tricky, with Writer’s guidelines can be found car seats and all the gear. online at 5280.com/writers-guidelines. DESIGN & PRODUCTION To suggest a story idea, email us at CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR Kent Odendahl [email protected]. PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER Megan Skolak ASSISTANT CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR Carly Lambert DIGITAL ADVERTISING OPERATIONS MANAGER Matthew Gonzales ADVERTISING GRAPHIC DESIGNER Chelsea Conrad Leaving on time. I 5280 ofers businesses the most feel like I’m always JUNIOR DESIGNER & PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Nick Stonecipher cutting it close. cost-efective way to reach Denver’s AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT upscale consumers. Information about AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Audrey Congleton advertising is available on the web at 5280.com/advertising. Call 303-832- AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT COORDINATOR Caroline Brookshire 5280 to request a printed media kit. NEWSSTAND CONSULTANT Alan Centofante ADMINISTRATION I always forget one thing that I FINANCE & ADMINISTRATION DIRECTOR Amy Kessler really needed. SPONSORSHIPS HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER Derek Noyes 5280 actively supports organizations OFFICE MANAGER Todd A. Black that make our city a better place to live SYSTEMS SPECIALIST Jonathan Mikobi N’Dala and work. Submit sponsorship propos- als to Carrie Horn, senior marketing director, at [email protected]. Going through the 5280 PUBLISHING, INC. TSA line at the airport. I hate it! 1515 Wazee St., Suite 400, Denver, CO 80202 Finding the time. Tel 303-832-5280 | Fax 303-832-0470 | 5280.com For subscription questions, please call 1-866-271-5280

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4 | 5280 TRAVELER | 2018 SEPTEMBER 13 - 16, 2018 PALISADE, COLORADO

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TICKETS SELL OUT FAST, GET YOURS NOW! COLORADOWINEFEST.COM From The Editor

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If traveling is a skill, I believe I’m well on my way to mastering it. I actually enjoy scouring the internet for cheap lights and having my inbox ill with travel deals. I spend hours reading articles with titles like “12 Multi-Purpose Travel Essentials You Need For Your Next Adventure.” And I’ve success- fully bartered at a market in Jerusalem, driven a car over a speed-bump-laden highway in Mexico, and found my way home after a late night on Australia’s Gold Coast. But no matter how much I’ve traveled—ive continents, 18 countries, and 25 states, so far— there is one big obstacle (besides my bank account) standing between me and that pro-status travel badge: packing. Without fail, I suddenly forget the cardinal rule of layering and Taking a break after hiking to Florencia Bay on Vancouver Island. arrive at my destination to Every* story ind I’m going to be chilly has been fact- for a week. Or I continue to weigh down my beach vacation bag with a pair of jeans, “just in case”— checked and updated (where even though “just in case” has never occurred. I’m labbergasted (and, truth be told, jealous) by those possible) with who can put together fabulous ensembles for every day of their trips. current informa- As I write this, I’m preparing for a 10-day tour of Paris, Amsterdam, and Brussels. It’s my irst tion as of press extended vacation of 2018, and I’m determined to master my suitcase once and for all. I purchased time in early June. a set of packing cubes to help keep my efects organized. I plan to lay out what I’m bringing a few days in advance so I have time to edit my selection. I also started keeping a shopping list on my phone, so whenever I’m on a trip and realize, for example, that I need a supportive pair of walking sneakers (which I did, in fact, have to buy on day two of last summer’s jaunt to Vancouver), I write it down and make sure to get said item before my next adventure. Within the pages of this, our seventh edition of 5280 Traveler—a compilation of the best of the best of 5280 ’s regional travel coverage*—you’re going to ind plenty of ideas for paddling excursions (page 34), where to plan your next ski trip (page 24), and how to explore Jackson, Wyoming, without ighting the crowds (page 16). As you plan for these outings, I hope you are able to conquer whatever your particular travel obstacle is—your proverbial suitcase. Because I’m certain that you, fellow wanderluster, deserve that travel badge as much as I do. And because I want you to spend your precious vacation days experiencing a new place—not freaking out because you forgot to pack underwear.

DALIAH SINGER EDITOR, 5280 TRAVELER

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ning through August). Denver’s crowd- pleasing Tunisia—and its covers of everyone from Earth, Wind & Fire to Katy Perry—closes out the series’ 21st season on August 29.

GEAR UP, GLAM UP Ride, run, or Downtown Evergreen Escape The Cityscape relax. It’s easy has long had a fun col- to do it all in lection of boutiques, well-rounded As the Colorado Tourism Office will happily tell you, you don’t have to Evergreen. but recently it’s begun go far to feel far away on the Front Range. Case in point: Evergreen. adding more diverse destinations. Basin The town boasts a vast trail network, a pristine lake, and a thriving & Bend, a sporting arts scene (catch the Evergreen Fine Arts Festival from August 25 to goods retailer special- 26). The best part? It’s all just 45 minutes from Denver. —JEFF WARANIAK izing in hunting and fishing gear, opened CAFFEINATE LIKE A LOCAL you and your moun- in Arapaho National canine-friendly food in October, and Blain tain bike tackle an Forest has become one truck has fake grass Lake Antiques, which Start your day at intermediate 13-mile of the more popular platforms next EVERGREEN LIVING debuted in March, sells Evergreen’s commu- loop that begins hikes in the Denver to several of its out- an assortment of local A long list door tables, complete collectibles, ranging nity coffeeshop, the in Alderfer/Three area. For starters, the of luminaries from ski lodge decor Muddy Buck Cafe. Sisters Park, runs family-friendly trek with leash hooks and has called While ordering an In- through Dedisse Park, loops approximately 4.6 water bowls.) Across Evergreen to vintage mining and donesian or Ethiopian and summits scenic miles through inviting town, Revival Brews home: railroad pieces. stocks a rotating menu blend—sourced glob- Evergreen Moun- pine forests and over Gary Hart ally and hand-roasted tain, climbing a total pleasant creek cross- of 12 craft beers, and Former U.S. WIND DOWN THE in-house—ask your of 1,973 feet. The ings. The most exciting just a little farther senator from barista about the route provides sat- features, however, are down the road, Lariat Colorado WESTERN WAY Lodge Brewing Co. charred rock walls and isfying terrain for all the picturesque falls, Jeff Ashby No trip to Evergreen makes its own suds. wood beams dating rider levels, from flowy which you’ll encounter NASA would be complete The eponymous IPA is back to the building’s downhills for begin- about 1.7 miles in. astronaut without catching a especially tasty. former life as the Ever- ners to rocky technical Willie Nelson show at the Little Bear green Hotel, founded sections for more BREAK FOR BEERS Musician, Saloon. Big names in 1896. (The place seasoned weekend LIVE THE LAKE LIFE legend like Willie Nelson have has been a magnet for warriors. Tip: Start (AND LUNCH TOO) graced the venue’s inti- After a taxing day fires over the decades.) early to descend with- Oh Crêpe Colorado, mate stage; nowadays, on the trails, relax by Return on Wednesday out having to dodge an artisan food truck you can catch local the tranquil waters evenings for a cocktail the hiking crowds. that debuted this past favorites such as guitar- of Evergreen Lake. or craft beer during the October in Evergreen’s ist and banjoist David Rent a paddleboard cafe’s free open mic historic downtown, Potter. Yes, you could Shutterstock Shutterstock

GO CHASING from Evergreen Park nights (4 to 9 p.m.). order a craft beer, but sells delectable French & Recreation or catch WATERFALLS one look at the unique crêpes, such as a a free concert on the SHRED THE PARKS There are a number of pulled pork and Hatch Evergreen Lake House scenery—license reasons why the Max- green chile special and grounds (held every plates, bras, etc.—and What goes up must well Falls Lower Trail the popular bacon, other Wednesday eve- you’ll realize that a shot come down. That’ll egg, and Swiss. (Have of Jack complements

be your mantra as your dog with you? The the place better. top: Sarah Boyum (5); From

8 | 5280 TRAVELER | 2018 SUMMER IN BEAVER CREEK 2018 Summer Events

MAY AUGUST May 26-27 Blues, Brews August 1, 8, 15 Free Outdoor Yoga & BBQ Festival August 1, 8 Concerts by the Creek May 26 Beaver Creek August 2, 9 Beaver Creek Rodeo Series Craft Beer Festival August 3, 10, 17, 24 Village F.A.C. (Friday Afternoon Club) JUNE August 4-5 Beaver Creek Art Festival June 21, 28 Beaver Creek Rodeo Series August 5 Beaver Creek Half Marathon/10k June 22 In the Kitchen at Splendido August 7 Movies Under the Stars June 23 Summer Solstice Trail Run August 9-12 Wine & Spirits Festival June 27 Free Outdoor Yoga August 19 TransRockies Run June 27 Concerts by the Creek August 22 Beaver Creek June 29 Village F.A.C. (Friday Afternoon Club) Blast Bike Race August 25 Zusammen: Communal. JULY Marketplace. Dining. July 3, 10, 17, 24, 31 Movies Under the Stars SEPTEMBER July 4 Independence Day Celebration September 1-2 Beaver Creek Oktoberfest July 5, 12, 19 Beaver Creek Rodeo Series September 2 Oktoberfest Shufﬂe July 6, 13, 20, 27 Village F.A.C. (Friday Afternoon Club) September 15 Zusammen: Communal. Marketplace. Dining. July 11, 18, 25 Free Outdoor Yoga September 16 Hike, Wine & Dine July 11, 18, 25 Concerts by the Creek September 28- Beaver Creek/Vail Restaurant Week July 13 In the Kitchen at Toscanini October 7 July 14 Triple Bypass Bike Ride July 21-22 XTERRA Triathlon & Trail Run July 28 Roadhouse Mountain Bike Ride

beavercreek.com/events C 10 towns expand their performing arts venues. arts towns performing expand their theater, more, mountain ofmusic, as sound and the With Tripsuick The Alive… Hills Are high country’s new additions. additions. new country’s high on the curtain the back We pull properties. arts debuted recently have towns mountain Two isn’t alone: Butte Crested othe And expansion. an undergoing currently is which Cr Arts for of the Center director executive Birnie, Jenny says arts,” the ary 2019 (phased construction construction 2019 (phased ary renovated next, to stay open), open), stay to next, renovated rose 17.5 2016 in rose and percent When it’s completed in Janu- in completed it’s When the $12.5 million addition will will $12.5 addition the million building to serve that crowd. crowd. that serve to building existing venue, which will be be will which venue, existing 2017. 2017, of summer the In and gallery space (now ADA ADA (now space gallery and Arts Crested Butte Butte Crested Arts include a larger theater, two two theater, alarger include dance studios, an art studio studio art an studios, dance for culinary demonstrations demonstrations for culinary the CACB broke ground on on ground broke CACB the 31-year-old an 18,000-square-foot new an 18,000-square-foot

accessible), and a kitchen reached 48,105 visitors in in 48,105 visitors reached Annual patronage at the the at patronage Annual has allowed the CACB’s CACB’s the allowed has |

5280 people [are coming] to Crested Butte not for the recreation opportunities but for opportunities recreation notfor the Butte toCrested [are coming] people “A marquee. lotmore upthe moving is of entertainment category another though, tourists, and For locals both towns. Colorado’s about mountain things favorite afe are wildlowers—these brilliant and trails, aspen-lined peaks, raggy CRESTED BUTTE by area chefs.

TRAVELER Center for the the for Center 1

(CACB) (CACB) |

20 18 —DALIAH SINGER arts space will change its repu- its change will space arts tation. The 16,000-square-foot 16,000-square-foot The tation. is hoping its new multipurpose is new hoping its multipurpose J.Crew, and three dozen other other dozen three J.Crew, and Lake Dillon Theatre Company, Arts Center the only professional theater theater professional only the through town and shopping shopping and town through exhibitions, the year-round year-round the exhibitions, outlet stores), Silverthorne Silverthorne Performing venue houses the popular popular the houses venue troupe in Summit County, destination (hello, Coach, destination Long considered a pass- previous home in Dillon. in home previous which had outgrown its its outgrown had which 2017. In addition to art 2017. art to addition In SILVERTHORNE opened in June 2 and concerts (capacity: 5,000 5,000 (capacity: and concerts nent outdoor stage designed designed stage outdoor nent on July 21 and 22), free yoga, yoga, free 22), 21 and July on 2017 debut of the the of 2017 debut festivals (like the 36th annual annual 36th the (like festivals more than just a much-loved amuch-loved just than more zooming down the adjacent adjacent the down zooming many more reasons to head head to reasons more many Design, means visitors have have visitors means Design, by Denver’s Semple Brown Brown Semple Denver’s by downtown. In the summer, summer, the In downtown. Park Stage Park people). Come winter, the the winter, Come people). base with sweeping pan- ski destination. The June June The destination. ski oramic views for families families for views oramic Winter Park is becoming becoming is Park Winter jazz festival taking place place taking festival jazz stage serves as a home ahome as serves stage those reasons include include reasons those WINTER PARK sledding hill. hill. sledding ested Butte, Butte, ested , a new perma- , anew 3 Hideaway w of our w of our r DATE: Underpants The GO IF YOU Butte Crested Arts the for Center of A rendering COST: Center Arts Performing Silverthorne VENUE: to September 2 September to $46 $29 to to $29 August 3 August 3 $89) or go à la carte. carte. àla go or $89) or ($62 pass aday chase Pur- Course. Challenge Alpineer the Tour and Zip Line Expedition adventures include the where Breckenridge, to ed summer concept expand- year, Vail Resorts’ Last EPIC DISCOVERY Iron Mountain. 110 into plunge feet they happened, though, after what realize away. They’ll dropping ﬂoor the notice won’t they that accident mining 19th-century aﬁctional of retelling the in up caught so get might in summer 2017, visitors opened which ride, est new- Park’s Adventure On Glenwood Caverns MINE DROP THE HAUNTED coaster). 5,800-foot-long Copper Mountain’s newer, out (beating America mountain coaster in North That makes it the longest feet. 6,280 over feet vertical 420 descends and 2017 September in opened attraction an of monster Steamboat Resort’s OUTLAW MOUNTAIN COASTER thumping in no time. ticker your get will thrills mountain three performance? These aheart-rending to pounding adventure aheart- Prefer JUNKIES ADRENALINE THE FOR —SPENCER CAMPBELL

From top: Courtesy of Holtzman Moss Bottino Architects; Courtesy of Vail Resorts GONDOLA & CHAIRLIFT RIDES, HIKING & BIKING, CLIMBING WALL, FISHING, DISC GOLF, PAINTBALL AND MORE.

FIND ADVENTURE AT ASPEN SNOWMASS

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Off The (Very) HAPPY TRAILS offer—a rocky gorge, aspen forests, wildflower-flecked Beaten Path meadows—by the time you When Hanging Lake is teeming with tourists, reach 9,115 feet. Come Ready: Bring worn-in try one of these nearby alternatives. hiking boots. You’ll have to clamber over fallen trees and Climbing 1,100 feet over 1.2 miles, Hanging Lake Trail is a calf buster. But the aquamarine hop across streams on this pond at its apex, perched improbably on a clif, is also a jaw dropper—and why more than adventure-filled journey. 150,000 people descend upon the Glenwood Canyon gem each year, most of them during the summer months. hankfully, there are other nearby hikes (with similar characteristics) VIEW FROM ABOVE Forest Hollow Trail that show of equally stunning landscapes, minus the crowds. —PAUL CUNO-BOOTH While passing through

615 Glenwood Canyon on the SAME DISTANCE, LESS SWEAT ROADSIDE ATTRACTION ter known as No Name Trail) interstate, you gaze up at its rock faces from below. Main Elk Creek Trail Grizzly Creek Trail and Crossover trails for a longer, and more complex, Maximum hik- Glimpse them from above Thirty minutes northwest Like Hanging Lake, this trail nine-mile excursion. ers who would on the Forest Hollow Trail, of Glenwood Springs, this is located just off of I-70, be allowed to accessed via the 2.5-mile three-mile out-and-back trail but here the immensity of SERIOUS VERT access Hanging Scout Trail in downtown follows lush Main Elk Creek Glenwood Canyon quickly Lake Trail per Glenwood Springs. The path Mitchell Creek Trail past 800-foot walls of gran- swallows the roar of traf- day if a new hugs the canyon for about ite and limestone. The scenic fic. Soaring rock abounds Beware, this demanding management five miles, flitting in and out payoff at the end—a rocky on this trek: yellow crags trail climbs a punishing 700 plan for the of scrub oak and pines, with riverbank ringed by spruce poking out from forested feet per mile. The ascent area is stretches that offer panoram- and fir trees—feels almost slopes, striated walls that is worth it, though, for the approved ic views of the Flat Tops. undeserved, given the rela- curve like amphitheaters. (about half of remote feel and excellent Après-Hike: Stroll over to tively small effort the rolling For a moderate outing, the average views of the Elk Range’s Mt. Glenwood Canyon Brew- hike demands. turn around at the two-mile during sum- Sopris and Capitol Peak. ing Co., a few blocks from mark about two-thirds of mer’s busiest Extended Stay: Pack your Hike the full 4.2 miles and the trailhead, for an easier the way down the trail. days) tent and spend the night at you’ll pass through just way to experience Hang- a dispersed camping spot Extra Credit: Combine the about every landscape ing Lake: the Hanging Lake near the turnaround. nearby Jessie Weaver (bet- the mountains have to Honey Ale.

Scout Trail en route to Forest Hollow Trail Courtesy of Visit Glenwood

12 | 5280 TRAVELER | 2018 TO BE UNIQUE IS TO HAVE A FLAVOR ALL YOUR OWN.

Penrose Room Summit Café Julie’s 14 look good too. to needs gear your beauty, natural that by all rounded you’re sur- when because design— and comfort for also winning major points while fumble-free, shot, the you get help bags camera gear companies’ easy-access Colorado These anymore. Not enough. fast pack your of out lens right the get you can’t because it missing you’re likely but photo, color fall perfect the for make All river. ablue from drinking amoose forest, yellow Mountain a sunset, vibrant Rocky apurple this: Picture Location On Shot Tripsuick

5280

GEAR TRAVELER CLOSET

—JW

20 18 Jason Hatﬁeld. Jason photographer 5280 masterpiece from foliage afall crafting Three tips for FRAMED contributing contributing explore the Maroon Bells– theexplore Maroon Bells– Best For: CAMERA CASE LARGE EXTRA your SLR handy while you you while handy SLR your Features: Features: Headquarters: top closure, adjustable Headquarters: Snowmass Wilderness Snowmass walls and base, cinch cinch base, and walls neck/shoulder strap neck/shoulder main compartment, main compartment, in Mountain Rocky OSPREY ULTRALIGHT Best For: Features: Features: internal dividers internal TOPO DESIGNS CAMERA CUBE National Park AMATEUR Price: Price: CASUAL Overlook shots Padded side side Padded Keeping Keeping $59 Padded Padded $40 Antonito and Chama. 17 between Highway State Tops or Wilderness scenic Flat the like spots fall lier lone- to drive foot, on far it make can’t you If ditions). con- lighting dramatic most (the shots sunset or sunrise for photographers other likelyless to encounter you’re trails, popular most Icons: The Avoid Denver Cortez TIP 1

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When roads or cabins. cabins. or roads like elements human for look also You can growth. under-or autumn-colored wildﬂowers, rocks, catching eye- include and low get photo, your framing When striking elements up front. with in viewers bring shots compelling landscape ground: Find A Strong Fore- pockets for new and used used and new for pockets Features: Kenosha Pass with every every with Pass Kenosha Headquarters: MOUNTAINSMITH T.A.N.MOUNTAINSMITH exterior, color-coded Best For: PROFESSIONAL KIT CUBE LARGE KIT memory cards memory The most most The lens you own you lens Price: Water-resistant Water-resistant TIP 3 Dayhiking Dayhiking

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Clockwise from top: Courtesy of Osprey; Courtesy of Mountainsmith; Jason J. Hatfield; Courtesy of Topo Designs HOW DO YOU uick Trips

toward Gaslight Alley, a strip of locally owned boutiques in the center of downtown. Our favorite stores are Mountain Dandy for barware, Made for hilarious cards, and Crazy Horse Jewelry for statement turquoise pieces. And if you’re staying in Teton Village, check out the newest location of Stio Mountain Studio for a gear-closet update.

GRAB A BITE The scent of freshly baked dough will draw you in the front door of seven-year-old Perse- phone Bakery. The creative salads, made Oseason Outing Jackson, Wyoming, typically gets its ﬁrst snow in mid-to-late September, WHERE TO STAY which makes leaf-peeping all the more spectacular. Typically, though, In Downtown powderhounds don’t crowd Jackson until November. Translation: Once Jackson: Hotel Jackson; rooms the summer travelers are gone, you can have this remote, charming start at $499 Rocky Mountain town mostly to yourself. —DS On The Out- skirts Of Town: at the same overlook and mountain biking of falling.) Choose Snake River with vegetables from where he captured his trails near downtown, from three loops that Sporting Club; the Vertical Harvest cabins start famous “The Tetons but the real adrenaline range from beginner greenhouse nearby, will , “Sports- at $300 and the Snake River” buzz rests with Jackson to advanced; the more persuade you to stay for in 1942. Hole Mountain Re- difﬁcult routes include lunch. (Don’t leave with- In Teton out some bread, which sort’s new via ferrata a precarious walk along Village: Four MEET THE LOCALS (pictured above). (Via a 120-foot-long suspen- Seasons Resort is prepared daily using ferratas are essentially sion bridge. and Residences regional wild yeast.) For One of Jackson’s best paths along mountain- Jackson Hole; dinner, we recommend attributes is its prox- sides or cliffs that are rooms start Local Restaurant & Bar, imity to natural areas protected with cables DROP SOME DOUGH at $900 a modern steak house (Yellowstone National and rungs so climbers For quirky shops, that’s as focused on re- SEE THE Park, Bridger-Teton can experience thrills you’ll want to point sponsible food sourcing National Forest), which without the danger your cowboy boots as it is on a perfect char. (ARTISTIC) SIGHTS makes wildlife sightings Built into a hill that likely. The National Elk overlooks the National Refuge, for instance, DRINK UP Elk Refuge (see “Meet is home to roughly Spend happy hour The Locals”), the 47 mammal species, at Bin22, a wine bar, National Museum including one of the bottle shop, and specialty of Wildlife Art of largest wintertime elk market that hums with the United States is herds in North Amer- after-work crowds clinking home to more than ica. Tip: You’ll have wine glasses and noshing 5,000 works, includ- the best luck spotting on items from the tapas ing pieces by artists of these creatures from menu. Hop heads will pre- renown such as Geor- midday to dusk. fer a pint at Snake River gia O’Keeffe and John Brewing, Wyoming’s James Audubon. Save oldest brewery, while time to head to nearby DEFY GRAVITY spirit connoisseurs can Grand Teton National You won’t have any appreciate the craftsman- Park, where you can trouble scoring an ship at the Rose, a dimly attempt your best An- endorphin rush on the lit cocktail lounge serving men’s Moose,” 1907, purchased with funds generously donated by the Robert S. and Grayce B. Kerr Foundation © Estate of Carl Rungius with funds generously Moose,” 1907, purchased men’s sel Adams impression 100-plus miles of hiking expertly mixed tipples. top: Courtesy of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; Lindley Rust; Krafty Photos; Carl Rungius Clockwise from

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Backpacking Plus Prepare to rough it—well, sort of—at Glacier National Park’s historic Granite Park Chalet. BY ELISABETH KWAK-HEFFERAN

or a moment, this Montana adventure sure feels experiencing all the wonders of an excursion into remote like backpacking. First, there’s the requisite dark wilderness...just with a few extra perks thrown in. chocolate. Plus, we’re passing around a shiny lask of whiskey in the post-dinner lull. White THE SEEDS FOR THIS trip to Glacier were planted at Christmas. crystals of dried sweat dust the back of my neck. Hiking into a storied, Alps-style backcountry lodge in one of My shoulders are sore from hauling my 60-liter the country’s prettiest and wildest national parks would be the backpack all afternoon. And most of all, there’s setting for a reunion of sorts: three longtime friends (plus a the view: Glacier National Park’s most beautiful new one) enjoying some bonding time with one another while snowcapped pyramids and signature layers of geo- communing with nature. Granite Park Chalet wasn’t our only logic stripes rarely unveil themselves anywhere near a road. choice. here are other summer wilderness shelters scattered FBut signs that I’m not that far from civilization are dii- here and there throughout the Rockies—the 10th Mountain cult to ignore. We’re leaning against gnarled log beams and Division Huts in Colorado or the occasional U.S. Forest Ser- perched on benches as the sun makes its lazy descent; the vice rental cabin in any number of Western states—but while high-summer sunset takes its time in these northerly lat- you can drive close to many of those destinations, Granite Park itudes. Some kids playing in front of us are bouncing on Chalet sits on a rocky knob more than four stout miles and a giant inlatable couch. And when the stars inally begin 2,200 vertical feet from anywhere a car can go. blinking on to headline the evening’s entertainment, Constructed between 1914 and 1915 by the Great I’ll retire not to a tent, but to a cozy bed in a stone-and- Northern Railway as part of a nine-hut system built to draw timber bunkhouse. It’s backpacking in a sense, I suppose—I American travelers to the West, the chalet’s rustic stone facade did walk here with 30 or so pounds strapped to my back. and polished log beams seemed like the perfect place for our But maybe it’s better to call our foray to Glacier’s historic rendezvous. I imagined us gathered around the wood stove

Granite Park Chalet “backpacking plus.” After all, we’re still with mugs of cocoa or playing cards on one of the wooden Katie LaSalle-Lowery/Big Sky Country Photos

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tables in the common room while an alpine wind whistled outside. Besides those homey visions, the chalet, which accommodates 35 overnight guests, ofered something else just RISE ABOVE. as compelling: sturdy walls that separated us from one of the Lower 48’s thickest populations of grizzlies. Even so, armed with bear spray, we don’t dwell too much on thoughts of bruin encounters when we shoulder our packs at Logan Pass and set of on the Highline Trail. Instead, we breathe in the high-elevation air

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Top Out Glacier’s 8,987-foot Heavens Peak

and congratulate ourselves for being orga- Golf is one of two nized enough to land reservations, which sports ever to be get snapped up quickly when first-come, first-served booking opens each January. played on hree diferent paths deliver guests to the chalet: the 4.2-mile Loop Trail, the 7.6-mile the moon. Swiftcurrent Pass Trail, and the 7.6-mile Highline. We selected the Highline for its easy trailhead access, mellow grade, and top- shelf views of Glacier’s soaring summits. I’d left the tent at home, but as we switchback along the trail, I realize my pack doesn’t feel all that much lighter than usual. hat’s probably because Granite Park is a $108-per-night DIY outfit. Guests haul in their own sleeping bags, food, water, cooking utensils, and dishes. hey access the chalet’s 12-burner propane stove and cookware during 15-minute appointed slots and often get to know their bunkmates at Lakewood is shared tables over bowls of just-add-water pasta. There’s also a lantern-lit outhouse way closer. stocked with hand sanitizer. (The ritzier Sperry Chalet, which had private rooms, meals prepared by the inn’s staf, and real beds with linens, was destroyed by a wildire in August 2017.) Although it would’ve been nice to leave my sleeping bag at home, the trail doesn’t

LakewoodGolf.org demand too much effort. The Highline Shutterstock

20 | 5280 TRAVELER | 2018 GETAWAYS

slices across a steep slope, minimizing ele- as bears. Down that path right there is the Divide at the chalet’s back. We snap a few vation change but maximizing dramatic water tank, if you didn’t bring your own; we photos we know won’t turn out, then lapse views of the McDonald Creek Valley far saw wolf tracks there the other day! Here’s into a marveling silence as Mother Nature below. It takes about four hours of mostly where you’ll eat your meals—of course, continues to paint the canvas before us. leisurely ambling before the chalet pops you can also dine outside—and here’s hen we promptly return to our bunks for into view. Dwarfed by the sharp-edged our hiking map so you can plan trips for a morning nap. We have a big day ahead. peaks rising behind it, the chalet com- tomorrow. Feel free to check out our little Granite Park Chalet grants easy access plex—which consists of the main lodge, library area, too, for history and geology to a handful of outstanding dayhikes in a bunkhouse, and a park staff housing books. And here’s your home for the night, Glacier’s ruddy interior. By midmorning, building—resembles the rustic summer a four-bunk room in the annex building.” we’re winding our way up the broad side estate of some long-ago Montana cattle As we hang our packs on hooks in the of Swiftcurrent Mountain. A short climb baron. Dayhikers mill around, rubbing log-paneled bunkhouse, we notice the from the chalet brings us to Swiftcurrent their sore feet and staring up at 8,987- chatter loating in from three rooms down; Pass, with its expansive views of the Many foot Heavens Peak, but we pass them and it’s clear the partitions between units are Glacier area on the park’s clify east side; drop our packs on the main building’s more like privacy curtains than actual from there, the trail shoots up a scree ield front porch. A bubbly college-age woman walls, but it’s charming anyway. Packing to top out on the wind-scoured 8,436-foot greets us as we duck into what serves as earplugs would’ve been smart, but it won’t summit. A resolute ire lookout (the highest the lobby, a stone-loored room illed with matter tonight. Sunbaked, trail-weary, one in the park) holds tightly to the Con- thick wood tables and a crackling wood and full after a meal of polenta, burrowing tinental Divide, with steel cables lashing it stove. “Welcome to Granite Park Chalet!” into my sleeping bag and drifting of is no to the mountaintop and Buddhist prayer she announces before launching into the problem at all. lags decorating the inner windows. “Can well-rehearsed orientation she gives to you imagine landing this post in the ’30s?” guests each day from late June through WHEN MY ALARM TRILLS at 5:30 a.m., I rise I wonder aloud as we peek inside. early September. “Here’s the communal reluctantly and step outside into the rosy But the best views up here face the other cookstove. Here’s where you will stash predawn light. Orange and violet hues way: uninterrupted aerials over a string of your food and toothpaste. Remember: No creep down the sides of Heavens Peak, glacial lakes, steep-sided buttes, and tena- ‘smellables’ are allowed in the bunkhouse McPartland Mountain, and Mt. Oberlin cious glaciers still clinging to the summits to avoid attracting animals, mice as well as the sun climbs over the Continental despite the climate’s warming tempera-

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tures (just 26 of the park’s original 150 down at the terraced ice ield and note that glaciers remain, and they’re shrinking). It’s its leading edge is rapidly disappearing into a queenly perch and all ours for only 2.1 Upper Grinnell Lake. For now, anyway, we h IF YOU GO miles and some 1,500 feet of elevation gain. can still see the ice sheets that carved this SEASON The chalet is open late June Dropping back down, we decide to tack incredible landscape. Few places in this through early September; target mid- on the roughly .75-mile spur up to the Grin- country can ofer the same view. July to September for the best chance at nell Glacier Overlook. he trail provides a The best part of the day doesn’t come encountering snow-free trails. grandstand view on top of the Divide, where until later, when I’m kicking back on a COST $108 per night for the ﬁrst person the vista expands to include vertical cirque bench with a beer in hand. Dinner tonight and $80 a night for each additional guest walls, a chain of lakes, and Grinnell Gla- will be true-and-smoked-salmon mac ‘n’ in the same room. Leave your sleeping cier about a thousand feet below. We peer cheese, which we’ll inhale on an outside bag in favor of the bedding service, which is $20 per person, per night. Park entry fee is $30 for seven days.

RESERVATIONS They’re required, and they go fast. Reserve your spot online starting in January for the following summer. You r CHECK-IN Hiking in grizzly country after dark is not advisable, but there’s Renew no speciﬁc check-in time. TRANSPORTATION Parking is free and available at all trailheads but limited; it’s better to take the park’s free shuttle from Apgar or the St. Mary Spirit Visitor Center.

CONTACT 1-888-345-2649, 4 seasons to recharge. graniteparkchalet.com picnic table—mosquitoes be damned. hen 41 state parks to discover. we’ll drink in yet another spectacular sunset before collapsing in the bunkhouse. 700 miles of trails to hike. As I sip from my stream-chilled can, I feel fortunate to be here. Granite Park is the only lodging chalet left of the original nine 225,000 acres to explore. (a second structure, the 104-year-old Two Medicine Chalet, still serves as a store for campers). Over the years, Glacier National Park has lost the others to avalanches and disrepair and, in the case of Sperry, wild- fire. Granite Park has endured in part because it’s made of native stone strong enough to survive the worst winter storms. It would’ve been something indeed to experience the other huts in those early years, but their demises just make these two days at Granite Park all the more special. Like the national parks themselves, this chalet is a holdover from a wilder era—and it ofers a chance to retreat from everyday life and travel back to a simpler time. Tomorrow the weather will turn, and State Forest State Park we’ll follow the Highline Trail through a moody mist back to Logan Pass, where we parked. Right now, though, I’m content V i s i t o r m a k e a r e s e r v a t i o n to lounge with friends as we watch a deer at a Colorado state park today! graze a few feet away. Tonight, at least, we’re cpw.state.co.us/discover already home. m

Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan is a Fort Collins–based 1-800-244-5613 freelance writer. Email her at [email protected].

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TRAVELER moved his family into a camper atwhat would become intoacamper moved hisfamily Taos 1954, of80 acres, purchasing anoldmining claim after Blake exposure thatwouldnorthern ensure goodsnowpack. from Taos, withsteep slopesboastingextreme pitchesanda Mountains.Cristo was ideal:he location amere 20miles Peakof 13,159-foot Wheeler de intheSangre found it. snowbasinsatjustnorth he perfect resort. voyage Ononesuch in1953, Blake where buildhisown ski hewould eventually place theterrainfor scan “the spot”—the shield, Blake, 40s, theninhisearly could below.landscape hrough theplane’s wind- he rest of the story has become ski industry legend: hasbecome skiindustry In he rest ofthestory

20 flights allowed himtostudythe morebut even important, the timeeachhours ofdrive way, to theairsaved Blakeaboutsix hisCessna170.he lew Taking inGlenwoodresort Springs, Basin, totheskiarea’s sister Fehe managed Santa Ski Fe,Santa New Mexico, where mute. from Instead ofdriving Blake hadanunusualcom- 1950s,n theearly Ernie 18 Inside Edge past—and Coloradans are paying are Coloradans attention. past—and the into Taos by leaning anew future out Valley Ski iscarving ﬁrst run opened. run ﬁrst its after years 62 resort independently owned an remains Valley Ski Taos odds, the Against &Future Present Past, ward era ofindependence. intoanew Bacon.named Louis Overnight, Taos Ski Valley marched for- toamedia-shy,price New York–based hedge fundbillionaire Vail orPowdr, Resorts Taos Valley Ski anundisclosed sold for becoming yet gobbledupby anotherskiresort abehemothlike 60 years ofownership, theBlakessoldskiarea. Instead of even when,even inDecember2013, nearly after been conventional—not then, notnow. Not says. dadwasterrible.”“My mechanicin was anaircraft World War II,” he days. one. mom wasthemechanical “My She Ski Ski Valley’s theland baseandbeganclearing

by handand mule. By1956, one run, Snake- dance, amodern-day diamond, black cut Nothing about Taos Ski Valley hasever down themountain. Ayear later, asecond BY AMANDA M. FAISON M. AMANDA BY slope opened: Al’s Run, apolit- namedafter ically connected ically Taos surgeon whowas instrumental in the resort’s early successes. intheresort’s early instrumental he run wassonarrow therehe run wasbarely enough room for both those skiing down enough room boththoseskiingdown for and those riding upanunwieldy sur- and thoseriding face lift. Blake, Mickey theoldestof Blake children, remembers hismother mounting and tuning rental skis in those mounting andtuningrental skisinthose

Courtesy of Taos Ski Valley (2) BUSINESS

NEWS OF THE SALE elicited a mix of surprise irst time that’s happened since 2008). was the Blake family that approached the and relief that the family didn’t sell to a cor- Which is why the sale of Taos Ski hedge funder. “We thought he was the right poration, Mickey says. But some were still Valley leads to one crucial question: Can person because of his conservationist back- nervous Bacon would polish the rough eschewing bigger and slicker still be ground,” Mickey says. “Going corporate edges from Taos Ski Valley’s homespun per- successful? Bacon’s team says the billion- wasn’t in line with the family’s desires. We sonality. Local bar manager Evan Blish was aire—known for his land conservation were specifically looking for someone to quoted in a February 7, 2014, Albuquerque efforts and habitat protection in Colo- carry on the Taos tradition and not homog- Journal article saying, “We had this pri- rado, New York, North Carolina, and enize it into another big resort.” vate enclave, and it’s all going to change.” A the Bahamas—is intent on keeping the hat doesn’t mean there aren’t changes couple of weeks later, Elisabeth Brownell, resort small and intact. In fact, after years afoot: In 2015, a lift began ferrying riders to the former co-owner of the Thunderbird of rebuffing offers from corporations, it the top of Kachina Peak, ofering access to Lodge at the base of Taos (and Ernie Blake’s longtime secretary), penned an op-ed in the same newspaper that spoke for many: “In my time I have seen many investors and developers buy up land, build condo com- plexes with soulless architectural design, sell them off, and leave…. The current major investors should work together to protect the charm of Taos Ski Valley.” Their concerns were legitimate. The Summer modern ski industry has come to fully embrace the trifecta of big, lashy, and glam- orous. In the past three decades, lifts have gone from two-seaters to quads to six- Stays person chairs. Gondolas, once novelties, have become the norm. Cozy warming huts with low-key food service have been replaced by from $290 plus sleek, high-ceilinged lodges with cell phone 100 Resort credit charging stations and $18 burgers. $ * here are places that try to hold on to at least some vestiges of the ski industry of old, but even they are often held by massive con- glomerates: California’s beloved Kirkwood Mountain Resort is owned by ever-growing Vail Resorts, which gobbled up Canada’s Whistler Blackcomb in 2016 and Vermont’s Stowe Mountain Resort in June 2017. Also in 2016, Powdr, which oversees nine resorts across the country, bought locally owned Eldora outside of Boulder. And in October, ailiates of KSL Capital Partners and Aspen Skiing Co., which combined to buy all of Intrawest Resort Holdings, Inc. (including Mammoth and Steamboat), bought Deer Valley Resort in Utah. “You’ve seen con- solidation continue,” says Chris Linsmayer, public affairs director for Colorado Ski Country USA, a not-for-proit trade association representing 24 of Colorado’s ski areas. “But I don’t think the ski industry is unique in that. You’re seeing it in telecom and construction, not just in ski and tourism.” Paul Marshall, director of communications at Ski Utah, notes that the marketing power of large corporations can be very appealing for smaller or independent resorts. In fact, he says the added oomph of brand rec- ognition may have helped account for viceroysnowmass.com • 877 235 7577 back-to-back record-breaking seasons (2015- *Offer subject to availability. Four night minimum stay required. ’16 and 2016-’17) in the Utah industry (the

5280 TRAVELER | 5280.com | 25 BUSINESS

terrain that previously was only reachable by a new gondola transporting visitors from those willing to hike. here were objectors, the children’s center to the base. he silver- of course, but the Bacon-led management LEED-certiied, geothermal Blake hotel team has swayed many naysayers by limiting debuted in February 2017, and a new river skier numbers in the area. Last season, Taos walk, complete with a stream restoration on Ski Valley removed chairs on the Kachina the Rio Hondo, will open in 2019. lift to reduce capacity, in addition to con- That’s more than $300 million in tinuing its program of granting hikers irst upgrades, and yet the goal of the new own- pick of the peak after a storm. ership is for the feel to remain the same. Last winter also saw a refurbished chil- “When you hear of a remake or revitaliza- dren’s center, a regraded beginner hill, and tion, people think of massive growth and

Back In The Day Ernie Blake at Taos Ski Valley, which he founded in the early 1950s

expansion,” says David Norden, CEO of Taos Ski Valley. “We’re in a situation where that’s not the plan. We’re on Forest Ser- vice land, surrounded by national forest, and we’re in a valley, so geographically we can’t push out. And we don’t want to. Will we upgrade facilities? Yes. Will we bring on additional rooms? Yes. Will we upgrade lifts and cuisine? Yes. But the scale won’t change. We won’t become the big guys.” Although some still might see the BE INSPIRED TO improvements as an incremental march toward the Vail-iication of Taos Ski Valley, Norden emphasizes that many of the proj- ects completed and in the works were improvements the Blakes hoped to make but lacked the capital to take on. “We wanted to, we just didn’t have the funds,” LINGER Mickey says. In this sense, Bacon is some- stay eat play thing of a fairy godfather for a resort that was slowly failing.

THE BEST SEASON ON record for Taos was during 1993-’94, when the resort hit an all-time high of 364,000 skier days. For 2016-’17, the numbers leveled of at 229,000. hat downhill slide might sound grim, but the igures have steadied since Bacon took over more than four years ago. “As a facility becomes tired—or has a reputation of being tired—people start to drift,” Norden says. “We have to work to get them back.” Taos is doing just that with slopeside improvements coupled with an inviting business philosophy. In 2015, Taos joined the Mountain Collective ski pass, which allows skiers and riders two days each at a group of 16 independent resorts, including deltacountycolorado.com Big Sky and Banf, for a package deal. he

2018-’19 price starts at $409. his is their Ski Valley Courtesy of Taos Photo by lehmanimages.com Photo by

26 | 5280 TRAVELER | 2018 BUSINESS

answer to Vail Resorts’ $899 Epic Pass, which includes its 15 areas ranging from Breckenridge to Whistler Blackcomb. (he new Ikon Pass, which covers 26 destinations such as Copper, starts at $599.) here’s a common sense of purpose to the TRIUMPH Mountain Collective pass: Consider it the ski industry’s alternative voice writ large. “I MOUNTAIN PROPERTIES truly think the Mountain Collective pass has been a big help to Taos,” says Ski Utah’s Marshall. “It has also helped in Utah [with] Alta and Snowbird, and Snowbasin.” In February 2017, Taos Ski Valley announced another piece of the marketing puzzle: a B corporation certiication. It’s the first ski resort in the world to claim the esteemed designation bestowed by B Lab, a nonproit that serves a global move- ment of people using business as a force for good. Across the planet, B corps are held to the highest standards of environmental, social, and economic transparency. Other companies with the certiication include Patagonia, New Belgium Brewing Co., and Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream. For Taos Ski Valley, the designation highlights the resort’s commitment to the environment VACATION (the river restoration project is a crucial part of this, as is energy-eicient snowmaking, STARTS NOW. the geothermal heating and cooling system for the Blake hotel, and a seven percent reduction in greenhouse emissions from Luxury vacation homes as you’ve 2016 to 2017) as well as its investment in never experienced them before. the surrounding community. Since taking over the ski area in 2013, VAIL + BEAVER CREEK, COLORADO Bacon (who declined to speak with 5280) PERSONAL CONCIERGE SERVICES and his team have converted the entire valley from propane to more energy-ei- CUSTOMIZED ITINERARIES cient natural gas, laid fiber-optic cable, AMAZING AMENITIES + EXCURSIONS and shortened the supply chain by using local contractors and purchasing as many goods as possible within a 200-mile radius. “Historically, the ski valley has been the des- triumphmountainproperties.com | 866-SKI-VAIL tination in the winter and Taos dies. And in the summer, Taos is the destination and the ski valley dies,” says Dana Blair, founder of Tea.o.graphy, a Taos-based tea company whose product is featured throughout the resort. “[Bacon’s team is] building bridges, so there’s not as much of a dip season for either.” A big part of that symbi- THE GUIDE TO otic relationship is philanthropic. he Taos Community Foundation pushes money to CAMPING IN several nonproits throughout the region, Norden says. “And we created a new policy COLORADO for full-time, year-round staf that they can FIND YOUR NEXT GETAWAY! contribute three days to a nonproit on the clock.” Others are taking notice, too. he day after Taos Ski Valley publicly shared its B corp news with its email list, ticket sales GET MORE DENVER .COM jumped by 20 percent.

5280 TRAVELER | 5280.com | 27 BUSINESS UNPLUG AND CONNECT Among those noticing Taos’ trajec- tory are Colorado skiers. Although not the largest group of visitors, skiers hailing from the Centennial State make up Taos’ fastest-growing sector. Norden attributes the uptick, in part, to the resort’s positioning as an independent. “People are looking for an alternative to the mainstream ski experience,” he says. “A lot of consumers are digging deeper to find out the philosophy of the companies that they consume from.” Norden believes that as the industry becomes more homogenized, Taos’ diferen- tiation, coupled with its B corp status, will become even more desirable. But it’s more than transparency powderhounds are chasing—it’s soul. And in that respect, Taos delivers. If there’s one example that epitomizes the resort’s personality, it’s the martini tree. As the story goes, in the late 1950s, Ernie Blake was skiing with a woman who was overwhelmed by the lat light and unable to make it down the hill. He sent his son on an errand: Ski down FarmingtonNM.org to the base, ill an old liquor bottle with a martini, and bring it back. Once delivered, Chaco Culture National Historical Park the skier had enough liquid courage to make it to the base. To this day, the occasional martini awaits visitors under a tree on an undisclosed run. Other resorts—those more concerned with liability than culture—would have shut this practice down long ago. Taos Ski Valley merely adjusted: On intermittent Fridays, an employee sta- tioned near the martini tree—which guests usually discover courtesy of their ski school instructors—checks IDs and unlocks a birdhouselike contraption mounted to a trunk. After a sip, warm-bellied riders are sent on their ways. his core spirit informs Taos Ski Valley’s ideology. “It’s about how to preserve the best of what was,” says Dawn Boulware, Taos Ski Valley’s director of human resources, “but still be present today and set a foundation for tomorrow.” Perhaps the best way to understand Taos Ski Valley’s future is to look back at Bacon’s ski roots. He fell in love with skiing while attending college in Vermont and fre- quenting resorts such as Mad River Glen. Its mantra: “Where skiing is a sport, not an industry.” As if to prove that point, in 1995 the ski area formed the Mad River Glen Cooperative; its skiers become owners by purchasing shares. his sentiment—that a ski hill can be privately owned and be a ben- eit to its community—is what Ernie Blake believed in. Bacon appears to agree. m

Amanda M. Faison is a 5280 contributing editor based in Summit County. Email her at [email protected].

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WITH F L O THE W

Colorado may not have open water, but the state and its neighbors are still hotbeds for paddle GOsports of all kinds. Whether you’re a rafting rookie or a SUP specialist, we’ll show you how—and where—to make a splash this summer. By Lindsey B. Koehler

5280 TRAVELER | 5280.com | 35 36 FOR reasons. One, once getsnappedupquickly campsites dow—go torecreation.gov inadvance. upto60days bereserved signs andcan riverbanks; spotsare well marked withsmallwooden permit-only, alongthe scattered campsites primitive Managementhas34designated,he Bureau ofLand least onenight(althoughmanygr forat riverside tocamp have thehappy opportunity lat waterinonedayisunlikely. Butthatmeansyou’ll hasamotor,unless your craft 25milesof covering with gear. have Andyou gear, willdeinitely because relatively lightweight—at leastuntilyou them pack kayaks are maneuverable andremarkably stableyet waytotravel. only $35 adayfrom Fruita’s Adventures) Rimrock are the orado, inlatablekayaks(whichyou rent can forabout the magicofRuby-Horsethief sectionoftheCol- the Front tothe Range Western toexperience Slope giant inlatableswans. For thosewhojourneyfrom boats, canoes, stand-uppaddleboards, rafts, andeven lotillas composedoftent-andcooler-ladendrift accessibleboatlaunchwithslapdash from theeasily pilgrimage. annual summertime familiesdepart Local River through Ruby andHorsethiefcanyons isan Junction, thegentle25-mileloatdownColorado SWA toWestwater RangerStation TRIP LENGTH: Colorado andUtah LOCATION: WATER: ¨

You’ll win- wanttobeontopofthatreservation Sometimes called called Sometimes “duckies,” theseopen-topped |

COLORADANS 5280 Colorado River, LomaBoat Launch Ruby and Horsethief canyons, Ruby andHorsethiefcanyons, KAYAKING 2to3days

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20 18

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; and go. go. and kayaks rent simply can you aboat, in comfortable you’re if but option), ahalf-day offers Whitewater (Mountain trip duckie aguided for up sign could navigating moving Class II swiftly water. You themselves find mostly will paddlers negotiate, to rapids III Class two only With Collins. Fort outside as the easy beginner run on the Poudre just qualifies river III and II Class of section 2.4-mile This CACHE LA POUDRE RIVER,COLORADO IF YOU LIKETO newest national monument. national monument. newest state’s the enjoy can you so safely downcanyon it make you help will guide Center Outdoor Mountain aRocky by led person) ($75 per trip A four-hour aduckie. in navigable are that roils II-plus Class splashy with filled is Vista) Buena (near Canyon Browns Lower Colorado, the of section Horsethief Ruby- the on find you’ll water flat the Unlike ARKANSAS RIVER,COLORADO 3. del Rio. Rancho at Center River Colorado the at available are rentals Duckie kids. the taking comfortable feel can families so II, aClass than force more with churns rarely water The Bridge. State to miles four the floating and Rio del Rancho at starting try should kayak inflatable an in run to miles toothy less afew for looking those however, kayakers; and rafters advanced and intermediate for put-in is a well-known in Area particular Recreation Pumphouse The paradise. rat’s ariver is Colorado Upper the Kremmling, of southwest just Flowing UPPER COLORADO RIVER,COLORADO 2. YOU’LL ALSO 1. LOCAL Lower Browns Canyon Below Filter Plant to Picnic Rock Below FilterPlanttoPicnicRock Rancho delRiotoStateBridge trunk of your car. your of trunk the inside tuck still will that space storage of plenty with boat adurable ($4,600), Canoe Folding York the debuted company 2016, the In boats. plastic for enough big garages have don’t who those for arelief That’s bag. golf a than larger no acarrier in fit to down break GEAR coloradorivercenter.com raftmw.com company specializes in kayaks that that kayaks in specializes company Based in Cedaredge, this 19-year-old LONG HAUL FOLDING KAYAKS LOVE... 5280 longhaulfoldingkayaks.com KAYAK, TRAVELER GO WITHTHEFLOW rmoc.com

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37 Bridge Gorge Royal Boaters board an old school bus for the 13- to 20-mile Boaters board anoldschoolbusforthe13-to20-mile white-water action, ondayoneforovernight guests. Canyon, asplashy introduction to(orrefresher on) state. Instead, BighornSheep guidesply CañonCity yon, inthe sectionofriver rafted themostheavily the Arkansas River, neitherofwhichisBrowns Can- accesstotwo amazingstretchesoutpost hasquick of passed. First, the32-year-old company’s CañonCity unsur- location—is andriverside two-day itinerary its overnight setup($300perperson)—including white-water quests; however, Adventure’s American andBuena Vista). inCañonCity locations Adventure an outitlikeAmerican Expeditions (with upgrade your Makeitanovernight excursionwith trip? your elevate experience.loat sixercan Anotherwayto area landmarks, lore, local andwhere toscore anaprès- theriver’ssomeone whoknowsnotonly secrets butalso isn’tids probably oneofthem. And, truthfully, having sans guide, andIVrap- through ClassIII butrafting 38 THERE TRIP LENGTH: Royal Gorge,Colorado LOCATION: WATER: ¨

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through the Class IIIs and IVs. IVs. and IIIs Class the through tight hold can guests raft—so the maneuver can guide the only which boats—in oar use Moab’s often River Expeditions Sheri Griffith like outfitters canyon, spectacular this through furiously churns River Colorado the Because COLORADO RIVER,UTAH 1. YOU’LL ALSO IF YOU LIKETO which means trips fill up quickly. quickly. up fill trips means which of flows, summer low because late-summer early and spring late the in open only is route This river. the above arcs cliff atowering where Overhang, Grand the like marvels geological of glimpses and artwork; Indian Fremont to hikes water; views of Dinosaur National Monument; white IV and III Class rousing for OARS with aride Hitch Coloradan. every for experience abucket-list be should rivers free-flowing last country’s the of one on trip rafting A multiday 3. fast. and high is water the when June in run best that’s river of ribbon action-packed an Plunge, seldom-paddled Lower Rustic section plus the the experience and trip Mishawaka full-day the Slope. Sign up with Mountain Whitewater for Western the on find you’ll any as exhilarating as just are here rapids IV and III, II, Class the because ashame That’s rivers. Colorado other upon lavished attention the gets rarely Poudre Canyon, Collins, just Fort outside through courses that water white rousing The CACHE LA POUDRERIVER,COLORADO 2. LOCAL Westwater Canyon Yampa River Poudre Canyon into the wilderness. wilderness. the into distances extended for carried be to enough light also it’s but durability, and stability for designed is Gnarwhal water. The high in abilities its demonstrates really but situation any in well apaddler serves stern high-volume new The Mancos. in made packraft specific

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PADDLING 40 most spectacularred-rock chasms, the including windsthrough someofthe West’slong waterway in Wyoming’s River Mountains, Wind the730-mile- Green. oftheColoradoRiver thatbegins Atributary itdownariver,and-Huck much likethe lessariver on theriver, though, logisticsand stress meltaway. hassle-free waytogetonandofthewater. Onceyou’re need), andshuttles (about$375fortwo) isthemost fortwo people,for fourdays dependingonwhatyou mation aboutrequired permits, rental gear(about$175 Adventures,Expeditions/Adrift assistyou withinfor- ting sail, havinganoutitter, likeMoab’s Tag-A-Long tent-pitching, set- andcooking—isuptoyou after Canyonlands National Park. mostremote andpicturesquecountry’s landscapes: a four-dayjourneythattakesyou through oneofthe option. And, yes, isrequired acamera equipmenton boat launch, leavingessentialsbehindisn’t because an others) before shovingoffrom theMineralBottom You’ll (and quandaries thesepacking wanttosolve toiletandhowtonotgetyour wet. camera portable presents challenges—likewhere afew tostashthe to SpanishBottom TRIP LENGTH: LOCATION: WATER: ¨

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20 18 are super helpful on on helpful super are bottles of soda and Canyonlands River your water your ¨ Belknap’s Revised ¨ use the frozen jugs jugs frozen the use provide a portable aportable provide what you’ll need in in you’ll need what some locally made made locally some ¨ outfitter; the maps outfitter; to keep food cool, cool, food keep to money (about $80 water bottles. Use Use bottles. water the only “shower” picnic table with portable folding portable the first 24 hours; 24 hours; first the buy an campsite is more too much room much too ¨ Guide so your riverside riverside your so not only can you you can only not attached chairs but it’s also nice nice also it’s but booze stored in wipes Your will outfitter ¨ ¨ Don’t forget drinking water. potty…but not Pick up a copy of of acopy up Pick on Amazon) to Bring two-liter Bring two-liter toilet paper comfortable. Bring plenty. Beer takes up up takes Beer you’ll get for for you’ll get Waterproof Waterproof to have cold TRIP TIPS It’s worth the the worth It’s Freeze all of ice to chill. to ice four days. the river.

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41 ¨ STANDUP PADDLE BOARDING

WATER: Multiple reservoirs and lakes LOCATION: Flat Tops Wilderness, Colorado TRIP LENGTH: 2 to 3 days

MOST PEOPLE LEARNING to stand-up paddleboard are chiely concerned with getting vertical. But the TRIP TIPS drive to stabilize often means missing out on one of the greatest pleasures of the sport: paddling to the Ïf you live in the Denver metro area, middle of a lake, lying faceup on the board, and losing rent an inflatable track of time while staring into a big blue sky. paddleboard— You could try this horizontal maneuver at any preferably with a number of spots in the metro area (we like Boulder carrier backpack— from an outfitter Reservoir, Chatield Reservoir, and Cherry Creek like Confluence Reservoir), but for a weekend full of fun in the water, Kayak & Ski head three hours west to the Flat Tops Wilderness. (confluencekayaks. his 235,214-acre refuge is where the notion of wil- com) before you derness was irst applied to public land—and it’s little head west. wonder why. Volcanic lat-topped clifs melt into lush ¨Don’t forget to subalpine forests that—to the delight of SUPers—are bring a fly rod dotted with more than 110 lakes and ponds, many of and your fishing others. Not that that’s a bad thing. In fact, you license; getting a them accessible by your average SUV. line wet from a SUP should seek out similar SUP experiences at Sher- Even those unfamiliar with the Flat Tops have is an underrated if Reservoir, Yamcolo Reservoir, Upper Stillwater likely heard of Trappers Lake, the second-largest exercise in balance. Reservoir, and Stillwater Reservoir. naturally occurring body of water in the state. For ¨Pack some old If you’re into a more private paddling experience, sheer beauty, it’s diicult to beat paddling around the towels to wipe off the northeastern section of the Flat Tops—the most edges of this 1.5-mile-long, half-mile-wide jewel. your boards before easily accessible part from the Front Range—pro- As you glide along, throwing them vides that, too. All along County Road 8, from just back in the car. LOCAL peer into the clear outside Yampa until you make a left onto CR 8A water to see cutthroat Älways bring an toward Trappers Lake, you’ll ind splinter roads, BADFISH STAND extra pump UP PADDLE trout; gaze over the (with some of which lead to less-visited lakes. he signage GEAR the appropriate Born in Salida, burn areas of the Big attachment) as well in the area is decent, but having an atlas will come Badfish’s newest Fish and Lost Lakes as a patch kit for in handy. For a two- or three-day adventure, seek inflatable SUP, the ires; and consider a your board. out Bear Lake Reservoir, Chapman Reservoir, and Monarch ($999), is all about versatility: The hike up to Little Trap- Vaughan Lake, all of which you can drive right up 11-foot SUP works pers Lake. Because to. If you’re lucky enough to be able to shoulder your well on flat or moving Trappers Lake is well board (some inlatables fold up into tidy backpacks), water. What we love +Visit 5280.com most, though, is that known and because for expert advice take the easy one-mile trail from Crosho Lake you can easily fold it there’s a charming on stand-up (which is closed until October) to Allen Basin Res- up and carry it in a cabin resort nearby paddleboarding ervoir. At this out-of-the-way treasure, you’ll be the small bag to wherever techniques. adventure awaits. (Trappers Lake Lodge only SUPer in sight, which means no one will judge badfishsup.com & Resort), you will you when you put down your paddle, put your hands

share the lake with behind your head, and simply take in the view. David Clifford

42 | 5280 TRAVELER | 2018 Shutterstock Where To Stay: try Mountain Sports Kayak try MountainSportsKayak stand-up paddleboard is School, Where To Eat: wildgoosegranary.com in Steamboat Springs; in SteamboatSprings; Cabins, closest placetorent a Local Outﬁtter: Goose Coffee atthe Cafe &Bar(Yampa), 970-638-4555 Steamboat Springs Granary (Hayden), Granary (Hayden), Yampa, Hayden, Closest Towns: IF YOU GO kayak.com mountainsports mountainsports wildskies.com Wild Skies Skies Wild ; Wild ; Wild Antlers Antlers

The The LESSONS LEARNED À>}Õ`iÃ°V Denver #FXGPVWTG)WKFGU 4GPCKUUCPEG ÕÌ>Ã«ÀÌÃ>Þ>°V Steamboat Springs -C[CM5EJQQN /QWPVCKP5RQTVU ÀV°V Buena Vista 1WVFQQT%GPVGT 4QEM[/QWPVCKP >«iµÕiÃÌÃ«ÀÌÃ°V Glenwood Springs Edwards, Vail, and #NRKPG3WGUV5RQTVU VyÕiVi>Þ>Ã°V Denver %QPƃWGPEG-C[CM5MK U KYKN CNEN GUIDEDTRIPS CANOEING KAYAKING SUP LOCATION INSTRUCTION Wilderness for perfect SUPing. Chapman Reservoir is just one of many lakes in the Flat Tops Tops Flat the in lakes many of GET UP, UP GET STAND PGEGUUCT[VQJCXGHWPtCPFDGUCHGtCVVJGHQNNQYKPIRNCEGU 2CFFNGURQTVUCTGPoVSWKVGCUGCU[CUVJG[NQQM#ESWKTGVJGUMKNNU INSTRUCTION YOU’LL ALSO twinlakescanoeandkayak.com Adventures. &Kayak Canoe Lakes Twin at aboard Rent sunscreen. and swimsuit a but nothing wearing waters blue in around splash you while snow of dustings wear still 13,000- and 14,000-foot peaks the summer, the surrounding into well Even paddling. of day astunning for make lakes Colorado’s glacial largest Leadville, from miles 20 just Tucked into a scenic valley 2. stetsonscornerstore.net lake. the of part northeast the on Store Corner Stetson’s at aSUP Rent required. permit advanced no beach, the on right tent your up set You can right: That’s camp. car to spot effortless an for make also they but America, Middle in setting oceanlike an with SUPers provide only Denver—not from drive 3.5-hour McConaughy—a Lake Nebraska’s northwestern of waters clear and beaches sandy The IF YOU LIKETO lakewood.org/bclp lakewood.org/bclp marina. on-site the at aboard Rent charm. its of part draws a crowd that’s on summer weekends—but deﬁnitely Lake Soda Big location, metro-area its considering be should it than bluer that’s water and beach swim pretty aremarkably With water. the on time spend to way afamily-friendly provides Lakewood in Park Lake Creek Bear in Lake Soda Big home, to closer abit paddle to looking those For 3. 1. Twin Lakes BigSodaLake Lake McConaughy INSTRUCTION x x x x COLORADO LOVE... m 5280 SUP, COLORADO TRAVELER

NEBRASKA GO WITHTHEFLOW ilovelakemac.com; AVAILABLE Twin Lakes

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GUIDE TO Fourb Co Utah’s Mexican Hat Rock rners

Mesa Verde National Park is a world treasure, but it’s not the only thing worth seeing in the southwest corner of Colorado— or in any of the three other states that meet ours there. Here are 31 additional reasons to make the 420-mile drive. By Kasey Cordell

5280 TRAVELER | 5280.com | 45 46 Verde region. history intheMesa A timelineofhuman The Past People Of old ColoradoPlateau. andravinesofthe25-million-year- thewrinkles boundaries—in dwellings, thereal treasures oftheregion comebeyond the park’s visited, even maybe Mesa Verde National Park anditsfamedclif that’s thepoint. precisely Althoughmanyofushave heard of, or hour away. his isn’t aplaceyou endupinby exactly accident—and Mexico.New toHovenweep isan townofanysize he closest ful, intersectionofColorado, empty Utah, Arizona, and oftheFourin themiddle Cornersregion—the beauti- comes all the way out here for 15minutescomes allthewayoutherefor J

Roughly 450milesfrom Denver,Roughly Hovenweep sits |

glow indawn’s light, onecan’t helpbutwonder, infront ofit,Standing asthestone towers beginto a trailsignreads, “If You Have 15Minutes....” Only border, ontheUtah-Colorado the edgeofacanyon on Monument, acollectionofancientdwellings perched ust beyond thevisitorcenteratHovenweep National 5280

TRAVELER Where TheWildThingsAre

20 18 groups. groups. small in gather and mammals large other hunt humans Prehistoric PALEOINDIAN 10,000ish years ago 10,000ish yearsago mammoths ? and Who smaller animals. smaller and berries and fruits more eating seasons, the with move they patterned; becomewanderings more nomadic their and increases population hunter-gatherer the game, big off killing warms, climate the As ARCHAIC 6000 B.C.–500B.C.

UT AZ take more than15minutes. to Colorado’s past. Take your timetoexplore it. andabsorb atleast Or display. here maywell benomore obviousandaccessibleconnection bend ofroad, knoll, band, orclif isplainly, history on spectacularly journeythrough wherean almostspiritual alandscape around every fromhere—eight Denver, hoursofdriving tobeexact—thereward is ment, journey, anddiscovery, andwhileittakessome doingtoget NM CO carved homesintothosesameclifs. It’scarved aplaceofmove- and where, thousandsofyears ago, Ancestral Puebloans oncecovered inrock by ancientseas cutS-curves rivers roads, orcounty ways as butsimply “other.” Andwhere map legendssometimesdesignateroads notashigh- ofradiatingsunbeams.disappears intoacurtain Where you’re ofblacktop vast skythatthenarrow strip driving ror. thunderstorms buildsohighandwideinthe Where mir- pass hasadream danglingfrom catcher therearview “pit houses.” houses.” “pit called ground, the into dug often structures, permanent more in living and building and remain in locations longer, mostly cultivate crops, to begin Humans BASKETMAKER II 500 B.C.–500 500 B.C.–500 his is the kind of place where every other car you you othercar his isthekindofplacewhere every maize , 500–750 500–750 ceremonial purposes. purposes. ceremonial for buildings public kivas”—large, “great with communities into develop farms Single crops. cultivatefarmers additional and arrows and bows to spears from transition hunters as boom a population sees region Corners Four The BASKETMAKER III Bisti Wilderness, Wilderness, Bisti New Mexico

Previous spread: Whit Richardson. This page, from top: Jason J. Hatfield; Shutterstock (2) Clockwise from top right: John Lambing/Alamy Stock Photo; Courtesy of Wikipedia; Courtesy of John Wiley; Alamy Stock Photo; Amar and Isabelle Guillen - Guillen Photo LLC/Alamy Stock Photo; SuperStock/Alamy Stock Photo; Icon by Scott Roberts worsening drought. a of because perhaps Mexico, New to south migrate residents many era, this of end the Near than in previous ages. ground above built are structures more and larger, grow villages The PUEBLO I 750–900 Park Point Park for asign see you’ll Park, National Verde Mesa ` picnic to enjoy in the park later. later. park the in enjoy to picnic own your pack and Verde Mesa to way your on going to be tempted to skip this. Don’t. The The Don’t. this. skip to tempted be to going dwellings—you’re cliff of caches largest the to get you before drive to 10 miles about have still time—and on limited you’re Since feet). (8,572 ` ` soaking up views of Ute Mountain. Mountain. Ute of views up soaking while museum the above hill the on Pueblo Escalante 1,000-year-old nearly the explore and loom; aPueblo-style on weave tools; stone with corn Grind venue: 40,000-square-foot the in displays interactive and artifacts the among lost getting besides do, must you Things $3. just it’s And enter. to pleasure the we’ve engaging centers most interpretive had the of one is facility million $4.8 The Dolores. &Museum Center Visitor Ancients the the at Corners Four of tribes NOON 11 A.M. 9 A.M.

About 10 miles past the entrance for for entrance the past 10 miles About

MUST DO Get a primer about the ancient ancient the about aprimer Get Stop by by Stop [ 1 ] , the highest spot in Mesa Verde Verde Mesa in spot highest , the Flat Belly Organics You OnlyHaveOneDay… cram-it-all-in-so-you-can-brag-to-your-friends itinerary. ther; it’s nearly500 milestoVegas), here’s aone-day, your waytosomewhere else(Moabis145milesfar- for thoseofyouwhoare simplypassingthrough on a singledaytoexplore the majesticlandscape.But wehopeyou’llgiveyourselfmore than Four Corners, If you’re goingtodriveeighthoursfrom Denverto in the area. the in buildings—appear stone multistory large multiroom, Chaco Canyon houses” associated with typically “great the time ﬁrst the is This region. Verde Mesa the to return people eases, drought the As PUEBLO II 900–1150 900–1150 Canyons of in Cortez in Cortez in — 2 the drive lunch, After road. the down miles ﬁve area View Far the to get you until wait or here picnic your Unpack oranges. and reds, yellows, liant bril- in hills the across itself painting autumn of panorama aspectacular fall, each and, south, the only way you’ll get up close to the ruins. ruins. the to close up get you’ll way only the are they ladders, up climbing require and ple peo- 40 about to up with crowded be can hikes guided these While April). to October about from seasonally, down close sites the hour; half every depart tours $5 (the excursion ranger-led a for tickets buy dwellings, the on spective ` the $5fee. entrance worth others—is two in hands states, two in feet this way, the photo op— since you’re already out But jewelry. and artwork selling Navajo artisans of stalls the as esting inter- as nearly isn’t itself monument the Nation, Navajo the by managed and Plateau Colorado arid vast, the of top on Planted looks. it than ing excit- more alot sounds which meet, states four where country the in place only the is This time. in there get 5to by park the leave so entrance, Verde’s Mesa from hour an about it’s 6:45, and and like dwellings cliff to houses pit early from everything see can you where offs pull- several have tours six-mile These Mesa. 6 P.M. 1 Cliff Palace Palace Cliff Mesa Top

Four Corners Monument Monument Corners Four sure why. aren’t entirely archaeologists 1285; year the around sharply 20,000 before dropping off roughly to soars population The alcoves. rock in or heads canyon at built often lages, vil- massive into and farms from away move residents acentury, of course the Over PUEBLO III 1150–1300 1150–1300 or Cliff Palace loops loops Palace Cliff [ 2 ] . For a more personal per- personal amore . For north, Shiprock to the the to Juans San the You’ll see miles. 60 within everything of vistas wide-open elsewhere: get can’t perspective you simply a presents viewﬁnders and tower ﬁre the to lot parking Point’s Park walk from quarter-mile 3 Balcony House [ 3 on Chapin ] closes at ing the area. area. the ing explor- begun have Mexico, New settled who Spanish, the 1700s, the By arrive. Navajo) (the north the and Utes) (the west the from hunter-gatherer tribes Arizona, and Mexico New to Puebloans Ancestral the of migration the Following POSTPUEBLO 1300–1700 1300–1700 doing to your suspension. are roads dirt and gravel rutted of miles 80 the what about byworrying rience expe- the diminish to want youtransportation; won’t $14 provided for tional addi- the paying suggest We dwellings. the access to ladders afew climb and miles three hike to able be You must Note: era. III Basketmaker the to back cliff dwellings that date and displays art rock to guests aguide—leads out with- park the into allowed visitorsnontribal are not guide— AUte $48). (from Park Tribal Mountain Ute of TRIBAL PARK UTE MOUNTAIN TRIP SIDE 5280 TRAVELER 1700–2017 1700–2017 in 1906. Mesa Verde National Park HISTORIC &PRESENT dore Roosevelt The United States claims claims States United The or private tour tour private or group a full-day for opt outing, adventurous amore For lands, lands, control of Mesa Verde Verde Mesa of control populations from their in 1848. After decades decades After 1848. in removal of native native of removal forced the and war of

President |

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5280 choose, it’s nowassured tobearound forawhile. InJuly Pueblo, excavated.Lowry endofthemonumentthat’s dwelling beenartfully aneasy-to-drive-to onthenorth adventure Whatever roamfree around to(carefully) the450-room site. Ifboy-scouting your waythrough and canyons doesn’t cacti appeal, consider Built aboutthesametimeasMesa Verde’s ClifPalace—and pueblo’s three timesitssize—the wallshave collapsed, butyou are s exquisite rock formations, dwellings alongtheway. passingclif Canyon.way) through Sand From thesouthernentranceinMcElmoCan all onyour own(butpleasedon’t orstructures). anyartifacts disturb For have theintrepid aday, whoonly there’s a6.5-mil gear, water, andanadventurous streak, andyou discover 800-year-old can pueblos, art, rock shards from ancientpe andpottery enjoy from only afaroramongstacrowd,can exploration. Canyons oftheAncientsisopentobackcountry Allyou neediscampin sites inthecountry. Insomeplaces, beasdense100persquare mile. theycan atMesa Andunlikethestructures Verde, whi

TRAVELER MUST DO Mesa Verde? More gets about 20,000 visitors per year. than 600,000. Sand Canyon

20 18 2000, this176,000-acre monumentalongtheUtahborder acres, asinglemonumentinColoradolanded onthelistof27: Canyons oftheAncients. Establishedin 1996thatare largerthan100,000 dismantle—allnational monumentsestablishedafter and potentially 2017,In April whenPresident Donald Trump toreview— RyanZinke oftheInterior ordered Secretary CANYONS OFTHEANCIENTS The Most Underrated Adventure 2017, took Canyons oicially oftheAncientsendangered Zinke Canyon a4.5-mileclimb: theSand Pue he highlightcomesafter Saddlehorn Pueblo was built between Sand Canyon’s 1228 and 1232. yon, thistrek takesyou alongcanyon edgesandthrough holds the largest concentration of archeological holds thelargestconcentration ofarcheological September. Bring reach 90 even in even 90 reach plenty of water.plenty Temps can can Temps e hike (one e hike(one a visit to a visitto ch you ch you oples oples list. you you blo. till till g

Dan Leeth/Alamy Stock Photo; Icon by Scott Roberts Clockwise from top left: Courtesy of Lapita Arviso; iStock; Courtesy of Library of Congress; Courtesy of Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch

DRAWBACKS HIGHLIGHTS GO HERE TOWN IF… Cortez, Dolores, andMancosallsitwithin30minutesofMesaVerde, andthey’ve musicians, and dancers (watch Native musicians, anddancers(watchNative Guest Ranch(see“SideTrip: McElmo public to assist with digs. Downtown, public toassistwithdigs.Downtown, the stunning Canyon of the Ancients the stunningCanyonofAncients Archaeological Center, anacademic Saturday forfree at7p.m.).Andthe to thestandard budgethotelchains a cultural center/gallery housed in a a culturalcenter/galleryhousedin American dancersMondaythrough than anywhere elsewithin50miles. In-town lodgingoptionsare limited food optionshere are more diverse beautiful 1909mercantile building and roadside motels.Fortunately, showcases local artisans, writers, showcases localartisans,writers, research campusthatallowsthe Cortez boaststheCrow Canyon YOU CRAVE CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS CULTURAL CRAVE YOU Canyon” below) is located just Canyon” below)islocatedjust and Canyons of the Ancients, and CanyonsoftheAncients, Equidistant toMesaVerde AND CULINARY OPTIONS AND CULINARY each got a unique vibe. Find out which one fits best with yours. each gotauniquevibe.Findoutwhichonefitsbestwithyours. population 9,007 outside of town. outside oftown. CORTEZ A Tale OfThree Cities a trail ride through Sand Canyon with with Canyon Sand through ride a trail two outstanding wineries— outstanding two t from away yourself tear can you If Adams. Ming and Garry owners from free-range fresh, find leave—you’ll to want never you’ll shower o its with complete and dwellings cliff ancient after modeled structure luxurio the or House Stone Elden 1880s-era the in stay you Whether houses. and Guest Ranch Ranch Guest TRIP SIDE most spectacular—and little known—modern treasures. Exhibi treasures. known—modern little spectacular—and most ho Creek McElmo along land of finger athin Reservation, Mountain Ute northe the and Ancients the of Canyons of border southern the between Tucked McELMO CANYON ( pictured own brewery (ofcourse):Dolores River territory, especiallyinthefallwhen 350,000 acre-feet ofliquidadventure. foliage near the lake and above town foliage nearthelakeandabovetown Brewery. Andforabitofmidcentury Nearby McPheeReservoir meals in Cortez. But it does have its meals inCortez.Butitdoeshaveits Plus, theLowerDolores tailwater is considered primeColoradofishing near Gunnison)andoffers boaters, area’s brown trout—which average state (behind Blue Mesa Reservoir state (behindBlueMesaReservoir nostalgia, stop by the Depot for a nostalgia, stopbytheDepotfora going to want to eat most of your going towanteatmostofyour makes forabreathtaking setting. spawning. Bonus: In autumn, the spawning. Bonus:Inautumn,the dining scene,soyou’re probably between 12and18inches—are Dolores doesn’t havemuchofa is thesecondlargest lakeinthe paddlers, and fishermen about about paddlers, andfishermen ). This working ranch is the premier lodging option in the region, with six uni six with region, the in option lodging premier the is ranch working ). This YOU’RE ALL ABOUT THE WATER THE ABOUT ALL YOU’RE Guy Drew burger andshake. population 997 DOLORES Canyon Trails Ranch and Sutcliffe (pictured) —just a few miles away. And while you’re at it, sign up for for up sign it, at you’re while away. And miles afew —just and let a 14-hand quarter horse do the work. the do horse quarter a14-hand let and eggs in your fridge and unrivaled hospitality hospitality unrivaled and fridge your in eggs paintings, photography, sculptures, another 30 miles east), Mancos can another 30mileseast),Mancoscan is only a couple of blocks long, but is onlyacoupleofblockslong,but it’s packedwithgalleries andfunky showcase more traditionalpottery, modern aesthetic. The self-guided aesthetic.Theself-guided modern As the easternmost townrelatively As theeasternmost and jewelry, whileBeehive—aspa if you’re seekingsolitude,butnot wn lookout tower and a sky-lit stone stone asky-lit and tower lookout wn Mancos’ maincommercial district feel alittleforgotten. That’s great close toMesaVerde (Durangois boutiques. Raven House Gallery boutiques. RavenHouseGallery historic walking tour of town will historic walkingtouroftownwill if you’re lookingforsupperona Sunday night, when only a few Sunday night,whenonlyafew and boutique—leanstoward a he ranch for a day, tour the canyon’s canyon’s the aday, tour for ranch he and the Artisans of Mancos and theArtisansofMancos take you past all of them. take youpastallofthem. YOU LOVE ART AND HISTORY AND ART LOVE YOU t A: t A: 5280 places are open. population 1,460 Canyon of the Ancients Ancients the of Canyon MANCOS us Mokee House—a modern modern House—a Mokee us TRAVELER lds some of the region’s region’s the of some lds

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Shiprock is prohibited. near Shiprock, butclimbing are allowed tohike Visitors out oneithersidelikewings. span structures the volcanic a’í, or rock,”“winged because it issacred—call rock Tsé bít But theNavajo—for whomthe ship. clipper a 19th-century name from itsresemblance to Nation land, getsitsEnglish mark, whichsitsupon Navajo ofthevolcano.neck he land- rock, exposingthe eventually wore downallbutthehardest Millions ofyears oferosion roiled activity. withvolcanic ago, Juanregion whentheSan about30million yearssurface formed belowtheearth’s from magma), likely Shiprock of igneousrock (rock created Made upofminette, atype ofanancient volcano.the neck as 30milesaway, isactually which isvisiblefrom asfar his 1,500-footlandmark, NEW MEXICO 5280

TRAVELER Some of the Four Corners region’sSome oftheFourCorners mostnotablerock formations.

20 18 How’d ThatGetThere? Mexican HatRock northwestern New Mexico.northwestern ofsandstonehoodoos thatseemsmore suitedforthemoonthan landscape an otherworldly ontop,rock fasterthan theharder parts balancedformations. creating impossibly he result: and exposingthesediment. andwaterateawayatthelayers, Wind into thesofter chewing America. About25millionyears ago, ontopofamuchsee today:a60-foot-diameterdiscstacked smallerbase. Colorado andUtahhostedinlandseas. Erosion thelatePaleozoicthe edgeofacoastalplainduring era. hat’s millionyears right—300 ago, oilthere.) discovering Itwasformedwhensedimentdepositsbuiltupon the samenameafter mind in1908whenE.L. establishedatownof Goodridge sensitive name,culturally wasn’t butculturalsensitivity topof formation thatlookslikeasombrero. (Yes, it’s notthemost 300-million-year-old isaroughly sandstone HatRock can MostUnderratedAdventure”see “he onpage48), Mexi- byput underreview the Trump administration lastyear; National Monument(one ofthe27monumentsthatwere Perched JuanRiver ontheedgeofBearsEars above theSan UTAH Bisti Badlands tectonic plates shifted, uplifting the Colorado Plateau tectonic platesshifted, theColoradoPlateau uplifting Western Great Seaway, Interior whichdividedNorth deltathatborderedwas ariver whatisknownasthe andDe-Na-Zin Bisti Wilderness) called Wilderness forest. About 65millionyears ago, (also BistiBadlands in theseremote badlands, butitwasoncealushrain littlevegetation here are trailsandvery nodeveloped NEW MEXICO shaped the sandstone into the formation we shaped thesandstoneintoformationwe

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5280 days), whichtakesyou from Island, Sand justoutsideofBluf, Park State through Goosenecks ( lodging (i.e., camping, butyou don’t have to do anysetup, cooking, orcleanup). Ifyou have thetime, dothefullcanyon tour JuanRiver.the San Four foodand CornersAdventures toursthatinclude half-daytoseven-day Rivers Expeditionsruns & Wild the BlufFort intown). Site Historic attheregion’s Butthebestwaytomarvel down iswithatrip geologic andhumanhistory from thispioneertown, whichwasfoundedby Mormonsin1880(you stillexplore can remnants settlementat oftheiroriginal Utah’s canyon lands. Monument Valley, N Natural Bridges he area around Bluf, Utah, life; wasonceatthecenterofAncestralPuebloan today, it’s atthecenterofadventures through folds back on itself so many times it almost touches in places—and all theway toCedarMesa’s onitselfsomanytimesitalmosttouchesinplaces—andall folds back sandstonewalls. slick Mostdays members asyour guide, insightful getanespecially you’ll tightenthrough a1,300-foot-deepsandstonecanyon.curves Ifyou’re enoughtohave oneoftheoutit’s lucky sixNavajo tribal art, ancientrock House, stopandview dwellings likeSnake you’ll toclif getclose andspot bighornsheepastheriver’s gent were born). hose whoare Hat. pressed IslandtoMexican fortimeshouldstilltaketheone-day loatfrom Sand Alongtheway, thatwasformedabout60millionyears ago(around Mountains intheearth thesametime theRocky an 80-mile-longwrinkle tohikepointsofinterest suchastheChinle haveWash’s anopportunity you’ll dwellings orCombRidge andclif petroglyphs

TRAVELER MUST DO

20 18 guided raftingtripdowntheSanJuanRiver. For anintimatetourofhumanandgeologichistory, takea Ride TheRiver explanation of the landscape and its signiicance inNavajo tradition anditssigniicance explanation ofthelandscape ational Monument, andCanyonlands Natio pictured nal Park are allaccessible )—where the San Juan Juan )—where theSan (seven (seven le le s. , ,

Ashley Mersereau/Tandemstock; Icon by Scott Roberts From left: Kasey Cordell; Courtesy of Breezy Beckler; Courtesy of Russ Wheeler; Icons by Sean Parsons itinerary accordingly. Plan youreating the trend, though. These spotsbuck Well, notsomuch. culinary pursuits? rich inhistory—but is Four Corners Road Food feel guilty about splurging on a on splurging about guilty feel $12, than more won’t you costs menu the on nothing since And of imaginable variety). every cookies and (strudels desserts decadent and scratch, from created soups bread, fresh on waiting for sandwiches served worth It’s us: trust but spot, lunch and breakfast tiny this in aspot snag to difﬁcult be can &Cafe: Bakery Absolute your hunger. tame anyone?—will rolls, gooey, delicious cinnamon pastries—giant, homemade peckish, Fahrenheit’s oversize you’re If 12 feeling for years. brews well-balanced Mancos Fahrenheit has been serving Fahrenheit Coffee Roasters: ` the human and agricultural kinds. kinds. agricultural and human the both fertility, on center largely they Kokopelli, for legends varying have tribes American Native the Four region. Corners Although different MANCOS CRACK THECODE// in just about every gift store in in store gift every about just in jewelry and T-shirts, mugs, coffee on Southwest—and the throughout seen be can player ﬂute this of Kokopelli: Ancient depictions It

wagyu strip steak. steak. strip wagyu dry-aged ol’ good to brisket lamb to haloumi grilled from everything with globe the roams menu 5p.m.Olio’s at starting Saturday, through Tuesday three all Experience gallery. art part bar, and wine part restaurant, part is Olio things), of lection col- “olio” amiscellaneous is Olio: the road. for macaroons of bunch Southwest Benedict). Benedict). Southwest (the muffin English an and ham, tasso eggs, over sauce chile green in or pizza pulled-pork a on chopped them Eat heat: menu is packed with green-chile the Loungin’ Lizard’srestaurant, as bar much as that’s favorite Loungin’ Lizard: ` CORTEZ Understanding some of the emblems of the Four Corners area. Understanding someoftheemblems FourCorners Befitting its name its (anBefitting The spiral could represent the sipapu. sipapu. the represent could spiral The Canyon. Grand the in “sipapu,” or opening, an via world current our in arrived Puebloans, Ancestral the of descendants are who Hopi, the that is explanation popular one exist, versions different While worlds. A lively locals’ lieve we’re living in the fourth of seven seven of fourth the in living we’re lieve be- Hopi Some story. creation Hopi’s the of part likely are Corners Four in spot you’ll instances The cultures. cient Spiral: The spiral is found in many an- many in found is spiral The extending your weekend. weekend. your extending worth are salads and pizzas, yak), and lamb, bean, (beef, ers burg- mostly-local-ingredients made-from-scratch-with- its but Friday, through Monday dinner and lunch for open only is This nine-year-old restaurant &Lounge: Bistro Farm The The menu at this coffeeshop coffeeshop this at menu The Drink: and Eat Ridge Comb restaurant.) adry is Duke’s (Note: adventure. day’s next for prep (delicious) the caloric of plenty provides that menu dinner American aNew boasts beautiful home base—Duke’s and aconvenient it make River, Juan San the of edge the on perched rooms, lodge and cabins Inn—whose Rose Duke’s: ` BLUFF, UTAH Attached to the Desert some to represent healing. healing. tosome represent by believed is centuries, several across textiles and paintings sand Navajo in found be can which bol,

it stands for “whirling logs.” The sym- The logs.” “whirling for stands it Navajo, some for but things, different mean can It purposes. horrifying their for it co-opted Nazis the before long up Whirling Logs: collect on his bill. bill. his on collect to House White the contact to had Rivers Three and in Bill stopped Clinton President former time the share—like will staff stories the are treats real the but lunch, asolid for makes fare pub The Street. Main East of block entire an almost up takes now bars and restaurants of collection Rivers’ Three ago, Brewhouse: and Eatery Rivers Three ground blue corn. from made is grits, to akin dish, Navajo traditional mush.” The “blue of aside order also you if enough to feed two—especially big is bread) fry on served pepper chile Anaheim a roasted and tomatoes, lettuce, cheese, (beans, taco Navajo spot’s order-at-the-countermodest AshKii’s Navajo Grill: Four Corners region. region. Corners Four the in had be to coffee of cups best the of one for morning cheese. Come back in the American and beef grass-fed Ranch Guest Ancients the of mademasterpiece with Canyon forprepare a mouth-stretching Order the cheeseburger and mighty. but small is bistro and ` NEW MEXICO 5280 FARMINGTON, TRAVELER This emblem showed Founded 21 years 21 years Founded

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5280

TRAVELER for style for MUST DO

20 18 Choose Your Adventure Own Adrenaline andendorphinsawaitinFarmington,NewMexico. valley, Kokopelli’s Cave affords visitors one-of-a-kind views of views one-of-a-kind visitors affords Cave Kokopelli’s valley, minimum) to stay at at stay to minimum) (startin money the spending recommend we but property, Management al is Camping muck. shoe-sucking in boot ahiking lose to likely you’re plus, recently hard rained it’s if area this avoid and hot, unbearably to best It’s service.) cell on count don’t gear; emergency and water, of (Ca wish. you way any formations surreal the explore can you so vegetation, TRIP SIDE home tomore than15,000year-round avianresidents. continues hiswork farmthatis refuge todayby onthefamily maintainingawildlife sothatothersmightbeinspired toprotecthighlighting naturalbeauty it. Hiskin theirends; olderanimalsnearing were heestablishedthemuseum often asawayof Mexicogovernor.New atheart, Aconservationist targeted specimensthat Bolack cats—were collectedby polar bearstobigAfrican Tom Bolack, ahunterandformer re-creations oftheirnaturalenvironments. Mostof the animals—from girafesto housesmore than2,500taxidermicanimals,and Wildlife displayed inartistic often ona12,000-acre refuge, workingSet farmandwildlife MuseumofFish theBolack STARE DOWN APOLAR BEAR to the War of 1812!—attheAll Veterans Plaza. Memorial as well asanimpressive commemorationofveterans ofallwars—goingback enjoy theeightmilesoftrailthatparallelriver, passingthewhite-waterpark paddlers.of funfordeveloping Adventurers withmore terrestrial tendencies will rapidsthroughthan ClassII thissection, features buttwo surfable present plenty on thesouthsideoftownin1999. Paddlers won’t more hardcore faceanything town made themostofthatby installingawhite-waterpark alongtheAnimas Farmington Juanrivers, sitsattheconluenceofAnimasandSan andthe PADDLE THEANIMAS RIVER’SWHITEWATER PARK level. ability forevery riding popular optionsthatholdmilesofvaried time. he HoodMesa, Mesa, Piñon andKinsey’s oftownare Ridgetrailsjustnorth while you ride.) You sampletherest ofthearea’s can onyour singletrack ownany- Justkeepaneye out forJeepsandotherrock crawlers andboulders.slickrock ( theRoadAppleRally,country: where ra October,Every Farmington hostsone oftheoldestmountainbikingracesin MOUNTAIN BIKEAT HOODMESA About an hour south of Farmington, the hoodoo-dotted hoodoo-dotted the Farmington, of south hour an About BISTI BADLANDS is decorated with impossibly shaped sandstone, beautifully carved r carved beautifully sandstone, shaped impossibly with decorated is 60-square- this through trails no are There others. few like experience Kokopelli’s Cave Cave Kokopelli’s just north of Farmington. Built into a cliff above the La Plata River River Plata La the above acliff into Built Farmington. of north just

cers take on Glade Run Recreation Area’scers takeonGladeRun , as the dirt roads can become slippery— become can roads dirt the , as the sun setting on the basin 300 feet below. feet 300 basin the on setting sun the Bisti Badlands visit in the morning before it becomes becomes it before morning the in visit g at $290 per night; two-night two-night night; per $290 g at lowed on this Bureau of Land Land of Bureau this on lowed rry a map and a compass, plenty plenty acompass, and amap rry avines, and very little little very and avines, mile moonscape, which which moonscape, mile presents a hiking ahiking presents

From top: Courtesy of Farmington Convention & Visitors Bureau (2); Kasey Cordell; Jay Goodwin/Tandemstock; Icon by Scott Roberts From left: Allison Austin; ZealPhotography/Alamy Stock Photo some oftheregion’s quintessentialshots. your smartphone,we’vegotyoucovered. Here are afewtipsforcapturing Rivers Expeditionsrunsthemyear-round.) Butifallyou’re armedwithis Adventures &Wild a favoritesiteforphotographytours.(FourCorners prime locations.prime Sun Temple ofer overlooks oramas, theClifPalace and a ranger-ledtour. For pan- shotduring bing anup-close Focus onthedetailsby nab- lateafternoon. typically facing ClifPalace, that’s out thesandstone). Atwest- (itwashes directly structure when lightisn’t hittingthe dwellings,clif istoshootit the largestofpark’s tographing ClifPalace, without. he secret topho- can’t leave Four Corners Verde shot—theoneyou his istheiconicMesa CLIFF PALACE AT MESAVERDE ideal light, Four Corners isaphotographer’sideal light,FourCorners dream. Infact,it’s Between theincredible rock formations,wide-openskies,and Insta Envy and desert cottontails.and desert canyon’s wildlife, likecoyotes tocapture the more likely prefer sunrise, when you’re orsunset,near sunrise butwe valley.”) You’ll getgreat light word thatmeans “deserted Jackson; it’s aUte Henry photographer William namedbyally 19th-century ruins. (Hovenweep wasactu- you upnexttosomeofthe through takes thecanyon the two-mile trailalongand since photos—especially canyon makeforstriking on theedgeofan80-foot of stone towers perched people. Today, theremnants once heldupward of2,000 orado border, Hovenweep ontheUtah-Col- Planted a HOVENWEEP NATIONAL MONUMENT using alash. and avoidor evening) morning conditions (early to photographinlow-light details,art’s want soyou’ll will obscure some ofthe 2,000 years old. light Bright thatarepetroglyphs upto Panel,Big Kachina includes Wash Panel, the alsocalled JuanRiver.San he Butler along thebanksof just outsideBluf, Utah, befound can Southwest panelsinthe art rock One ofthebest-known SAN JUANRIVERROCKART ` ` ` ` ` ` ` ` ` ings on the other side of the park. park. the of side other the on ings dwell- cliff the to entrance the from miles so or 20 the drive to hour Verde in you of front in car the as wet conditions. in driving when cautious Be rain. ahard after snow as slippery as be plan accordingly. so spotty, is Corners Four of osakn nntr’ ony bounty. nature’s on snacking go don’t so fatal, be can leaf one just Ingesting region. Corners Four the called Nation. Navajo the through apermit get to need you there, River the of shore southern closed. or open are nesses busi- local whether and times, travel availability, lodging affect can 9. 2to event The September from Arizona, Rock, Window in place takes culture, Navajo of tion annual largest celebra- country’s early. there get Canyon Trail to ﬁve miles away. ATM is closest the and checks, and cards accept artisans all Not $500). to $5 about from range (they ment Monu- Corners Four at artisans the days in advance. two to up tickets purchase can you but quickly, out sell Verde YOU GO KNOW BEFORE You’ll only be able to go as fast fast as go to able be You’ll only The service Cell A pretty—but poisonous—plant poisonous—plant A pretty—but the owns tribe Navajo The The entrance southern the at Parking Bring cash The Canyons of the Ancients’ Sand Sand Ancients’ the of Canyons . If you’re planning to camp camp to planning you’re . If , so leave yourself about an an about yourself leave , so 5280 datura dirt roads dirt Navajo Nation Fair ranger-led hikes ranger-led TRAVELER is extremely limited; is extremely for souvenirs from from souvenirs for grows throughout grows throughout in many parts parts many in in this region can can region this in

San Juan Juan San |

in Mesa 5280.com , the , the CORNERS Mesa Mesa FOUR b

55 Spotlight on: CHEF PHILLIP BECKER

Nestled in the mountains just west of Denver, Timberline Grill is a culinary destination.

Everything about Black Hawk’s premier steakhouse celebrates what it is to be uniquely Coloradan, from the intricately carved wooden bar to the walls of reclaimed timber.

It’s no mistake that Chef de Cuisine Phil Becker presents an equally impressive menu, inspired by local ingredients and fresh ﬂavors. Chef Phil’s masterfully crafted menu highlights the best Colorado has to offer, including prime cuts of Aspen Ridge™ Natural Beef and handcrafted entrées seasoned to perfection.

For reservations or for more details call 720.946.4082.

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Mile High Stories {}25 YEARS OF OUR BEST WRITING

THE STORIES

1. GONE by LINDSEY B. KOEHLER 11. PRESUMPTION OF GUILT by LINDSEY B. KOEHLER

2. LOST by ROBERT SANCHEZ 12. DIRECT FAIL by NATASHA GARDNER

3. CHANGING NATURE by LUC HATLESTAD 13. ANDRES GALARRAGA: DENVER’S FIRST BASEBALL HERO by BOB KRAVITZ

4. THE PRECIOUS ORDINARY by CHRIS OUTCALT 14. ALL THAT’S LEFT IS GOD by MICHELLE THEALL

5. THE CANYON OF WHY by DALIAH SINGER 15. OUT IN THE COLD by MIKE KESSLER

6. FINAL POST by KASEY CORDELL 16. CONDUCT UNBECOMING by MAXIMILLIAN POTTER

7. WALKING SCAR(R)ED by NATASHA GARDNER 17. BILL KOCH’S WILD WEST ADVENTURE by KELLEY MCMILLAN MANLEY

8. STILL LIFE by CHRIS OUTCALT 18. THE MIRACLE OF MOLLY by AMANDA M. FAISON

9. HOMEGROWN TERROR by GARRETT GRAFF 19. NAKED AMBITION by REBECCA L. OLGEIRSON

10. FINAL CUT by JULIAN RUBINSTEIN 20. FINAL BELL by ROBERT SANCHEZ

5280, Denver’s award-winning city magazine, celebrates its 25th anniversary with a collection of its best longform writing in Mile High Stories. From the haunting tale QHCFGVGEVKXGUGCTEJKPIHQTCNQUVIKTNVQCRTQƂNGQH an eccentric billionaire, to an investigation that was instrumental in helping a man get released from prison, these artfully crafted narratives paint a vivid picture of life Photo by in Denver and Colorado over the past quarter century. PRESTON UTLEY

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5280 FRESH FAIRWAYS the first time and you drive home, you can remember every hole. This golf cours golf This hole. every remember can you home, drive you and time first the gener Colorado’s TPC Collins, Larry view,” says a spectacular has Hero master-planned the of one phase represent clubhouse $150) and tot open will Berthoud, in reservoirs Welch and McNeil, Lonetree, of course development in nearly a decade. That’s about to change. tochange. about That’s adecade. nearly in development course bunkers, in-and-out play, limited water hazards, few trees). At 773 y 773 At trees). few hazards, water limited play, in-and-out bunkers, Schaupe byArt designed 2019—were in beginning years, five Tour for Web.com alakefro and arestaurant, facility, afitness apool, center, a community

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20 18 Viewnder courses aren’t exactly new. In fact, the Centennial State hasn’t se hasn’t State Centennial the fact, In new. exactly aren’t courses B Club. Golf and Ranch Sky Red and Club, Golf Broadmoor the Club, Country Hills hom being is, it And courses. golf world-class for location ideal an is terra varied and rainfall, meager sunshine, plentiful Colorado’s TPC Colorado al manager. “The mark of a good golf course is when you play i play you when is course golf agood of mark “The manager. al he public next month. The semi-private course (rounds star (rounds course semi-private The month. next public he ards, the 13th hole will be the longest in Colorado. “Ever Colorado. in longest the be will 13th hole the ards, n Lakes community, which will eventually include 1,200 homes, 1,200 include eventually will which community, n Lakes nt beach club. TPC Colorado’s 18 holes—set to host th tohost 18 holes—set Colorado’s TPC club. beach nt , a par-72 championship course built on the edges edges the on built course championship , apar-72 e has that.” e has ter in the traditional Scottish links style (sod-wall style links Scottish traditional the in ter tpc.com/colorado in would suggest the state state the suggest would in en a ground-up golf golf aground-up en e to the likes of Cherry Cherry of likes e tothe

—DALIAH SINGER ut those those ut e PGA’s y hole y hole t for t for t at t at

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