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Rheology Modification of Hydrogen Peroxide-Based Applications Using

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Rheology Modification of Hydrogen Peroxide-Based Applications Using Rheology Modification of Hydrogen Peroxide-Based Applications Using Cross-Linked Polyacrylic Acid Polymers* Julie Schmucker-Castner and Dilip Desai The BFGoodrich Company 1. Key Words: Hydrogen Peroxide, Hair Bleach, Two-Part Hair Color, Rheology Modification, Thickened Hydrogen Peroxide, Hydrogen Peroxide Gels, Hydrogen Peroxide Stability, Cross-Linked Polyacrylic Acid, Carbomer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 2. Summary: A fundamental study of the stability of hydrogen peroxide-based gels, thickened using cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers, will be presented. Recent systematic experiments will demonstrate that excellent long-term stability of such gels can be achieved. The study evaluates different types of cross- linked polyacrylic acid polymers (as well as an associative acrylic polymer), several commercial sources of hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide concentrations and the effect of pH. Resulting viscosities from combinations of these variables will be presented, as well as the effects of accelerated aging on percent active peroxide and viscosity of the thickened peroxide gels. The results of this study will enable the formulator to determine the appropriate polymer and conditions necessary for optimal stability and rheological properties for hydrogen peroxide applications. This study will demonstrate that some cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers are very compatible and stable with H2O2 and that these polymers do not affect the H2O2 stability under certain conditions. In addition, this study will show that certain cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers can produce very viscous gels and yield higher viscosities in typical permanent hair color formulas compared to many commercially available products. Because of the excellent compatibility and stability demonstrated, cross-linked acrylic acid polymers are ideal rheological modifiers for hydrogen peroxide-based applications. The performance benefits of using a cross-linked acrylic acid polymer in two-part hair color formulations will be described in detail. 3. Introduction: Hydrogen peroxide has been widely used as an oxidizer and bleach in hair care applications since the 1940s. Hydrogen peroxide is one of the most important ingredients in hair color and permanent wave products on the market today. The performance characteristics of numerous peroxide applica- tions, including household, personal care, and pharmaceutical products could be potentially improved by the use of an appropriate rheological additive. Possible applications for gelled peroxide include hair bleach, topical gels, acne treatments, dental tooth whiteners, permanent waves and permanent hair color. Although the focus of this study will be on personal care applications, particularly hair bleach and permanent hair color, the results can be leveraged broadly for other applications. *Presented at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Conference, December 1997, New York and at the Society of Cosmetic Scientists Conference, April 1998, London, UK 1 Hydrogen peroxide, because of its reactive chemistry, is difficult to stabilize in many applications. There are many commonly-used formulation ingredients that are incompatible with hydrogen peroxide. Careful selection of formula ingredients, thickeners, and stabilizers, as well as the proper order of addition, pH and processing equipment are all essential to ensure acceptable long-term physical and chemical stability of a finished product. Achieving both the desired viscosity and appropriate rheological properties can be a challenging task in peroxide-based formulations. Although cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers are currently being used in some hydrogen peroxide-containing personal care and topical pharmaceutical applications, few systematic studies have been performed to evaluate different cross-linked acrylic acid polymers for specific hydrogen peroxide applications. This fundamental study demonstrates that excellent long-term stability of hydrogen peroxide-based gels thickened with particular cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers can be achieved. 4. Cross-Linked Polyacrylic Acid Polymers Cross-linked acrylic acid polymers are already well known for their unique rheological properties, such as the ability to impart vertical cling or a “no-drip” rheology. These unique rheological properties can enhance the performance characteristics of applications such as hair bleach, permanent waves and hair color, to name a few. One of the problems that can occur during the application of a permanent wave or hair color is the unpleasant experience of having the solution drip on the neck or face. The unique rheological behavior of cross-linked acrylic acid polymers enables the active material to adhere to the substrate for consistent coverage, minimizing the amount which may be lost due to runoff. Cross-linked acrylic acid polymers also provide a shear thinning rheology with the ability to recover viscosity immediately after the shearing has ceased, allowing hair color to be easily applied or squeezed out of a bottle. In addition, cross-linked acrylic acid polymers are odor free and have a high buffering capability due to the high number of carboxylic acids groups on the polymer, helping to maintain a stable pH in the finished product and during its use. 5. Fundamental Study : 5.1 Experimental Approach: Hydrogen peroxide gel samples were made to determine the effects of different acrylic acid polymers and hydrogen peroxide grades. Physical properties and the stability of the gels were measured and observed. The material variables in the study include various acrylic acid polymers and hydrogen peroxide grades. Ammonium hydroxide was used to neutralize the gels where necessary. In order to minimize the introduction of any contaminants, particularly transition metals, special care was taken in this study. Samples were made using plastic beakers, agitators and spatulas, and stored in opaque polyethylene containers. The test variables in the study include H2O2 concentration, which varied from 3 - 12 % active, and pH, from 2.7 - 4.5. This pH range was selected because of the inherent instability of hydrogen peroxide at neutral or high pH. All samples were neutralized using ammonium hydroxide to adjust the pH, except for the samples made at a pH of 2.7, which remained unneutralized. Samples were measured for percent hydrogen peroxide using a USP monograph assay for hydrogen peroxide. This method is a potassium permanganate titration, which utilizes the reduction of potassium 2 permanganate by hydrogen peroxide in sulfuric acid. The samples were measured for viscosity, using a Brookfield viscometer, for pH, and were also visually observed. Teflon coated spindles were used with the Brookfield viscometer to avoid contaminating the gels. Triplicate samples of the peroxide gels were placed on stability for 12 weeks at room temperature (23 °C) and elevated temperature (45 °C). These samples were tested at intervals of 1, 2, 4, 8, and 12 weeks for the same properties as listed previously. 5.2 Acrylic Acid Polymers: Five cross-linked acrylic acid polymers were used in the study, as well as a liquid associative polymer, and were labeled A through E (Figure 1). The results of this study will demonstrate that Polymers A and D have the most stable viscosity when used to gel hydrogen peroxide. Polymer A is a highly cross-linked homopolymer of acrylic acid, polymerized in benzene, and Polymer D is an easy dispersing cross-linked copolymer of acrylic acid, polymerized in ethyl acetate and cyclohexane.** Acrylic Acid Polymers Used in Current Study Polymer INCI Name A Carbomer B-1, B-2 Carbomer C Carbomer D Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer E Linear Acrylic Emulsion Polymer * * Not INCI Name figure 1 ** The following is a legend of the polymer trade names featured in this study: Polymer A CarbopolÒ 934 Polymer B CarbopolÒ 980 Polymer C CarbopolÒ UltrezÔ 10 Polymer D CarbopolÒ ETDÔ 2020 Polymer E (Not supplied by BFGoodrich) 3 5.3 Hydrogen Peroxide: Hydrogen peroxide is commercially available from several suppliers in a variety of grades. The grade of H2O2 will significantly impact the performance and physical properties of the application. Commercial grades of H2O2 contain stabilizers (chelants and sequestrants) to minimize decomposition during normal storage conditions. These stabilizers may improve the performance of H2O2 in an application. Typical stabilizers used in hydrogen peroxide may include: colloidal stannate, sodium pyrophosphate, organo-phosphonates, and colloidal silica. Four commercially available hydrogen peroxides were used in this study, and are referred to as: A, B, C, and D (figure 2). Hydrogen Peroxide A and C are both standard personal care grades, while B and D are stabilized grades. Hydrogen Peroxide B is a very highly stabilized grade.*** Commercial Hydrogen Peroxide Hydrogen Peroxide Concentrations Used Grades Used in Study in Commercial Hair Care Applications H O Description 2 2 Volume % wt H2O2 A Personal Care Grade (PC) 10 Vol. 3% B Highly Stabilized Grade (ST) 20 Vol. 6% C Personal Care Grade (PC) 40 Vol. 12% D Stabilized Grade (ST) 60 Vol. 18% figure 2 figure 3 Traditionally, hydrogen peroxide solutions in the hair care industry are provided in different concentrations or “volumes” of H2O2. Figure 3 shows the relationship between volume and the percent by weight of H2O2. A concentration of 6% wt hydrogen peroxide was used in most of the study, since this is the most commonly used concentration in hair color developers. *** The
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