Jan.04 Calvados 12/17/03 12:00 PM Page 1 The Seductive Apple Calvados Charms a New Generation of Bartenders and Consumers

By Kristen Wolfe Bieler

nce upon a time, Calvados enjoyed widespread popularity in the U.S. market. After discovering it in France during WWII, American G.I.’s brought bottles home to O introduce to friends and family. Sure enough, many applejack-loving Yankees enthu- siastically traded up to Calvados, learning to savor the refined and robust flavors of Normandy’s hand-crafted brandy.

That was decades ago, and, blame it on the image-wreck- taining the freshness of the fruit. Young Calvados can be ing, mass-produced Calvados that began to hit our shores, or course, and generally unpleasant. Great Calvados, many Cognac and Armagnac stealing all the glory, but today believe, requires more aging than Cognac. Calvados consumption here has dwindled to a barely-notice- There are the few and the passionate who sing Calvados’ able fraction of the 11 million cases the region produces praises. One of the most dedicated Calvados ambassadors is annually. While the French still consume as much of it as Henry Preiss. Preiss Imports represents Coeur de Lion, the they do Cognac and Armagnac, Calvados rarely graces an Calvados with undoubtedly more awards to its name than American digestif list or back bar. Those familiar with its any other. Over a decade of working with the brand in the profound character and instantly likeable palate agree: U.S., Preiss has seen it come a long way. “When we started Calvados could be the most underrated brandy. selling Calvados, people looked at us in a strange way. They wondered about a company selling very expensive Calvados. The Beauty is in the Blend… Too cold for Frankly, it was a very hard sell in the early 1990s.” Today, grape-growing, the Normans turned to apples, and since Preiss receives reorders daily from his nationwide network of 1563 have been perfecting the art of their distillation. They distributors, and sees accounts getting creative with have discovered that the more diverse apples in the blend, Calvados in the kitchen, behind the bar, and selling more the better the Calvados. While the appellation recommends and more snifters of older Calvados after meals. How does he a minimum of 48 different varieties, most producers use even explain the trend? “Calvados’ appeal is found in the obvious: more. The apples used are grouped in four flavor families – the incredible flavor of Normandy apples. The distillate from sweet, bitter, bittersweet and acid – and each producer has these small, intensely flavored apples lends itself to aging as their own mélange. Incidentally, the best apples for eating well or even better, then many other spirits. The product are not the best apples for Calvados; it is made from apples develops nuances and complexity that makes aficionados that are small, sour, and blotchy. wonder: ‘How could this have come from apples?’” Apples are harvested, pressed for juice which is fermented Even the big guys in this category are seeking growth naturally into cider, then distilled twice using a pot still. This from a small base. Boulard, the number one seller in this process yields clear eau de vie at about 72 percent alcohol that country with 30 percent of the market share, only sells 2,000 is then aged in wood casks for a minimum of 18 months. cases in the U.S. Boulard operates over 150 acres of orchards The crème de la crème of the region bears the Pays d’Auge with 35,000 apple trees growing 120 distinct varieties of label. Any Calvados produced outside this region carries the apples in the Pays d’Auge. Four styles of Boulard are avail- more general designation of Appellation d’Origine Calvados, able in the U.S., starting with the Grand Solage up to the and is the result of a simpler, single distillation process. The art Founder’s Reserve, a rare 12 year-old blend retailing for over of production lies in smoothing the young spirit while main- $100. Vincent Boulard, the 5th generation running the fami- Jan.04 Calvados 12/17/03 12:00 PM Page 2

“The distillate from these small intensely flavored apples lends itself to aging as well, or even better, then many other spirits.” – Henry Priess, Priess Imports

ly-owned company, is convinced the For the Calvados-initiated, it is worth Calvados market in this country can grow. exploring pommeau, a mix of Calvados He recently worked with New York’s and apple juice with a resulting alcohol Swisshotel restaurant, Q56, to create a around 16 percent. The closest thing in Calvados promotion; the chef incorporat- Normandy to a fortified wine, pommeau is ed Boulard into multiple dishes and the aged in oak, develops lovely cooked fruit bar created a series of Calvados cocktails flavors and makes an ideal chilled aperitif with Boulard Grand Solage. or dessert wine. Another rare product from Helping to spread the word, Sopexa, the region is Calvados blanche. Manoir the trade organization representing Food A new Ad campaign d’Apreval makes a fresh and fruity one; it and Wines From France, will be launching from Sopexa will be is aged in older oak to minimize the tan- a Calvados campaign this winter. The launched in 2004. nin, giving flavor but no color. three-year campaign will be themed “Calvados: the Spirit of Temptation. One sip and you’ll know why Eve sinned.” Alice Loubaton, senior group mar- Beverage keting director for Sopexa, USA believes that the key is in sampling. “We are trying to create awareness at every trade Network level. We want to fire up imaginations so that chefs are Calvados Selections thinking about it, and bartenders have it on their minds when they are creating. It is such a versatile spirit, and mixes Manoir d’Apreval Calvados Pays incredibly well.” d’Auge Grande Reserve Seasoned mixologists have always found Calvados a Aged 10 years; light amber color with cooked wonderful ingredient behind the bar. “I find Calvados inter- apples, hints of vanilla, caramel and citrus. A esting because, like Cognac and Armagnac, as it ages the stunning and complex example of small pro- taste of the fruit from which it is distilled fades into a mere duction Calvados. Suggested retail price: accent,” says David Wondrich, author of Esquire Drinks: an $75. Available through Cameron Imports (212-588-0871) Opinionated and Irreverent Guide to Drinking (Hearst, 2002). “Most fruit brandies taste very strongly of the fruit, and eas- Coeur de Lion Calvados Pays d’Auge Hors d’Age ily dominate a drink, leaving it unbalanced. Calvados does- Aged in small oak casks for more than 15 years; good bal- n’t, making it a smashing substitute for Cognac. The cocktail ance and lovely fruit aromas with notes of spice, caramel will taste different, but not radically so.” Wondrich is fond of and vanilla. Suggested retail price: $99. Available through the Applecar, a mix of Calvados, Cointreau and lemon juice. Preiss Imports (760-789-6010) While cocktails may be the easy sell, Candia Herman is attempting exclusively to win over the single malt and Boulard Calvados Pays d’Auge XO Cognac drinker. Herman created Cameron Imports almost A blend of vintages ranging in age from eight to 40 years, this Calvados is rich and smooth on the palate, with cooked two years ago in order to import a product that she was incred- fruit and raisin notes and hints of roasted almonds. ibly passionate about; Manoir d’Apreval. “The best reactions Suggested retail price: $69. Available through Palm Bay to my Calvados comes from chefs. When you end a meal with Imports (800-872-5622) a digestif, you create the ‘whole’ experience for your diners.” She believes that she can tap into the movement in this coun- Père Magloire Calvados Pays d’Auge XO try towards small producers and artisan products. A blend of Calvados with a minimum age of 10 years; floral Anyone who savors distilled spirits is a candidate for and apple bouquet with remarkably smooth finish. Available appreciating this ancient brandy. Preiss encourages licensees through Shaw-Ross International Importers (954-430-5020) to promote its versaltility. “Restaurants and bars have a unique opportunity here to really increase their business Manoir d’Apreval Pommeau de Normandie because Calvados lends itself to cooking, cocktails and in Aged 5 years, this pommeau is bursting with fresh apple fla- snifters. One of the best ways to expand the consumption of vors and notes of dried fruit. Ideal chilled as an aperitif or as Calvados is to have a creative drink list with a small section a dessert wine. Suggested retail price: $39. Available explaining what Calvados is.” through Cameron Imports (212-588-0871)