Climb Safe Additional Safety Tips:

• Open cliffs can be an especially dangerous place National Park Service to be during lightning storms; seek safe shelter U.S. Department of the Interior “ is pretty darn dangerous ... You away from the rim and tall trees. can never eliminate the chances that you or New River Gorge National River • Take drinking water, and do not drink from someone close to you will be the victim of streams or rivers. a climbing accident, but you can stack the odds in your favor by seeking competent • Hunting is allowed within this national park; instruction and exercising good judgement. wearing blaze orange is recommended during Climbing No matter what happens, just remember that hunting season. you—and only you—are responsible for your • Be able to identify West Virginia’s two species of Information safety in the park.” venomous snakes, the northern copperhead and - Jay Young, New River Gorge rock climber timber rattlesnake. • Be able to identify poison ivy; direct skin contact with this vine can result in a severe rash. Leaves of Most of the routes in the three, let it be! New River Gorge favor the • Respect wildlife and stay safe by observing advanced and expert climber. animals from a distance; never feed wildlife, The majority of routes are especially black bears. 5.9 and harder; most sport routes fall in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. Local climbing “’s popularity is growing every shops and National Park year. As our numbers increase, we are at risk Service visitor centers offer of losing access to hundreds of crags across climbing information and sell the nation unless we take better care of the guidebooks. land. We must be more careful to protect the In case of an emergency: natural beauty that exists at our climbing call 911 areas. I support the principles of Leave No Because of the remote nature of many climbing Trace and invite you to do the same. Working sites within the national park, rescue can be difficult together, we can protect the integrity of and time-consuming. public and private lands, and our access to climb there.” Area Medical Facilities: - Lynn Hill, rock climber • Oak Hill: Plateau Medical Center 304-465-8600 This brochure is a basic reference for private climbers in the • Summersville: Summersville Memorial Hospital, park, not group usage. For park group climbing permits or 304-872-2891 information on local rock climbing guides/outfitters, • Beckley: Raleigh General Hospital, contact the National Park Service at 304-465-0508. 304-256-4100 Portions of this text are printed with permission from Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. For more information on Center resources and programs: 800-332-4100 www.LNT.org

Basic first aid is also available at For park information: Canyon Rim Visitor Center, near the New River Gorge National River P.O. Box 246, Glen Jean, WV 25846 climbing areas in the northern end of 304-465-0508 www.nps.gov/neri 8/2009 the park (see map). This visitor center Photo by Greg Phillips is open daily, 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ New River Rocks Protect the Rock Leave No Trace Outdoor Ethics

With over 1,400 Help protect park resources by following these Historically, American climbers have had a established rock rules and guidelines: high standard of environmental awareness and climbs, New stewardship. As the popularity of this sport River Gorge • The use of top anchors decreases impacts on continues to grow, both social and environmental National River cliff-top ecology. Tree trunks or other vegetation impacts are increasing. Many of these impacts can has become should not be used as anchors. be prevented or minimized if people using the park one of the • Critical wildlife habitat can be destroyed when know and practice Leave No Trace. most popular moss, lichens, leaves, and other natural materials Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces: climbing areas are removed or “cleaned” from cliff tops. Please in the country. leave natural areas undisturbed. • Use existing park trails; do not create new trails The extensive or use those that are just beginning. Travel on the • Leave the natural rock as you find it by not escarpment most durable surfaces, such as rock and gravel. that rims much defacing, damaging, or altering these surfaces. • Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking of the gorge • Drilling to install areas, trails, water sources, and historic sites; and is composed new anchors or replace within 300 feet of any cliff top or bottom. Camping of Nuttall unsafe bolts or anchors is also prohibited along Route 82 near Bridge Area sandstone, is only permitted to Crags in Lansing, West Virginia. renowned authorized personnel. among rock Exceptions are decided • Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a climbers as on a case-by-case site is not necessary. some of the basis. For a drilling finest quality permit application, Dispose of Waste Properly: climbing rock in America. These hard cliffs range contact the National • Pack it in, pack it out. from 30 to 120 feet in height, with an abundance of Park Service at 304- • When no restroom is available, deposit solid crack and face routes. 465-0508. human waste in a cat hole dug 6 to 8 inches deep • Fixed hardware The National Park Service mission is to protect at least 200 feet (70 steps) from water, trails, crags, can only be removed the park’s natural and cultural resources for future and parking areas. Cover the cat hole when finished. by authorized generations, while providing opportunities for Always pack out toilet paper (use zip-lock plastic personnel. today’s visitors to enjoy, understand, and appreciate bags.) these resources. The increased popularity of the • Fixed draws and Minimize Campfire Impacts: park’s climbing areas impacts soils and rock, fragile slings are prohibited. Campfires can cause lasting impacts on the plant communities, and rare wildlife species. There • Use chalk • land. Use a light-weight stove for cooking and are also problems with litter, human waste disposal, sparingly. overcrowding, and damage to cultural resources. lantern for light. • If it is feasible, If you choose to build a campfire, use only after cleaning a route, • To address these concerns, the National Park established fire rings; keep fires small. Use only rappel from the Service, in collaboration with the New River down and dead wood. Alliance of Climbers, created the park Climbing anchors instead of The emerald ash borer Management Plan. The goal is to ensure the lowering. • has been found in this area. protection of national river resources while • Report bad Do not move campfire continuing to provide opportunities for a high anchors, bolts, and wood in or out of the park. quality rock climbing experience. Respect for other hardware the environment, wildlife, climbers, and other online at the NRAC • Never leave a fire park visitors will go a long way toward assuring web site: www. unattended. Put out fires continued access and enjoyment of the area. National Park Service photo. newriverclimbing.net. completely. Climbing Area Map NEW RIVER to Summersville CLIMBING AREAS to Route 60 to Winona KEY

Primary Road Not all areas are public property. Always respect the rights of 82 Secondary (4-WD) Road private land owners!

Climbing Area Edmond

Creek

Trail B Parking ea uty Mtn.

Visitor Center k

e

e

r

C

k t

e r e o r

C h 19 S n

r e F

VER ll NEW RI a W Lan s Ames sin s ll Heigh g R a ts R le oad oa W d d ll n ta 60 E t 82 u 96 N th ity Junkyard W ou Bubba C all Canyon Rim ‘ Fayette Station Road S Visitor Center

B ridg e Endle A ss Wall rea

N Ambassador EW 82 RI C VER Buttress r ai g Br anc h to Oak Hill

oor Kaym Sunshine N Buttress Fayette B u K Station tc ay he m 19 rs o Road Bra o nch r

N o 82 . 1 Wolf ad Creek Ro od 0 ¼ ½ ¾ 1 ewo Gat

16 Miles 16 Fayetteville Trail and Area Information Species Spotlight: News on Those in Need

There are over 70 miles of trail within New While enjoying the climbing resources in New River Gorge National River. Several trails River Gorge, please respect the natural resources provide access to climbers and hikers near the of this fragile ecosystem. This region is home to a gorge rim (see map). diversity of plant and animal life, which includes several rare and/or endangered species. Two Park in designated parking locations. Be sure species that may be impacted by rock climbing are to hide or remove all valuables while climbing. the Allegheny woodrat and peregrine falcon.

Many private campgrounds are located within The Allegheny woodrat is swiftly and severely easy driving distance from the climbing declining in the northern part of its range. Peregrine falcon on a cliff edge. Photo by Gary Hartley. areas. There are also primitive campgrounds Researchers are working to determine the cause within the park. Primitive camping is allowed of this decline. Challenges facing this species may needled branches of eastern hemlock, while the on park property, except where specifically include habitat loss, food shortage, or parasitic emerald ash borer is attacking ash trees. People excluded. Camping is prohibited within 100 infection. Loss of vegetation and ground cover at can unknowingly contribute to the spread of the feet of parking areas, water sources, and the base of the cliffs is a serious threat to woodrats. emerald ash borer and other forest pests when they historic sites; and within 300 feet of any cliff move firewood, soit is imperative that campers top or bottom. refrain from bringing campfire wood into the park. Damage to and loss For more detailed area information contact of habitat is an additional the National Park Service. Here are a few factor that impacts plants more ways to make the most of your visit: in the New River Gorge. Removing plants is also a Plan Ahead and Prepare: problem. Do not trim or Emerald ash borer. • Know and follow all park regulations, plus any cut any vegetation. special concerns for the particular area you’ll visit. The Allegheny woodrat and peregrine falcon • Research climbing routes in advance of your inhabit the rocky slopes and cliffs of the visit; choose climbs appropriate for the abilities of Appalachian Mountains. Sharing the rock with you and your group. Allegheny woodrat. National Park Service photo. native animals and plants is imperative when • Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use; enjoying New River Gorge National River. Here’s keep group sizes small. Peregrine falcons are once again flying above the how you can help when you visit the home of these gorge. An active peregrine falcon reintroduction native species: Leave What You Find: and monitoring program is conducted in the park. Over 70 young birds have been released, or • Leave rocks, plants, and other natural objects as Respect Wildlife: “hacked,” into the gorge, with hopes that adult you find them. • Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow pairs will nest here. Human activities, such as rock or approach wild animals. • Preserve the past: examine, but do not touch, climbing during the bird’s critical, early spring cultural or historic structures and artifacts. courtship period, may be a contributing factor in • Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, the local challenges faced by this species. nesting , and raising young. Be Considerate of Other Visitors: • Never feed wildlife. Feeding wildlife damages • Always respect private property rights. In addition to these animals, some plants are also their health, alters natural behaviors, and exposes facing great challenges. The park’s rimrock plant Respect other visitors and the quality of their them to predation and other dangers. • community, located at the top of the cliffs, is experience; be courteous. • Protect wildlife and your food by storing food especially fragile. Insects are attacking two species and trash securely. • Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices of trees in the region, threatening their survival. and noises. The woolly adelgid looks like white fuzz on the • Control pets at all times, or leave them at home.