newspapers –they’llregale youwithgoodmannersandthoughtfulconversation. chewing betel nut,readingWith solittleworkavailable,mostpeoplesitaroundsmoking, the mostdangerousandleastliveable.rated oneoftheearth’s future tolive andit’sfascinatingtotalkwithexpatslocalssensewhat it’slike inacity asawelcometreatpotatoes you’llhave consumed.Orit’llserve before heading bush. villages forweeks,amealatoneofthegoodrestaurants after thedozens isperfect ofsweet Varirata NationalPark isheaven forbird-watchersandthedrive there isrewarding. when theorchidsare blooming,it’sperhapsthecity’smostcharmingspot.Outsidetown, any photographerinthelate afternoon. The NationalBotanicalGardensare ahighlight; the NationalMuseumare recommended –themosaicfaçadeofParliament Hauswillexcite ing capitalisn’tamongtheworld’sgreat metropolises,itdoeshave redeeming features. spending sometimehere. Moresby istheSouthPacific’s Port largest city,andwhilethesprawl- intimidating, butsinceallvisitorsenter PNGthroughitsgrittycapitalalmosteveryone endsup First-time visitorstoPapua Moresby canfinditconfrontingandeven NewGuinea’scapitalPort Moresby Port 68 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Be mindful in Port Moresby (don’tflashyourjewels),butthere’sBe mindfulinPort noneedtobeparanoid. Moresby isaboutpeopleratherthansights.Experiencing Port It’samicrocosmofPNG’s The city’srelatively sophisticated infrastructure isabonus. Ifyou’ve beenwanderingthrough A visittoParliament Haus,PNG’smostimpressive building,andtheculturaldisplaysat

„ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

POPULATION: 250,000 Chowingdownon somefinefoodat Catching aboatoutto Enjoyingthe coolairof Drivingouttosolemn orchids’explosionof Seeingthespectacular Gazingupatthetowering,mosaicfaçadeof opportunities Park Gardens form andcolouratthe for some excellent snorkelling anddiving for someexcellentsnorkelling Aromas dramatic historyofWWIIthatitreveals Cemetery architectural icon tambaran ( p83 ) andthegreat bird-watching ( p80 ) andotherexcellentrestaurants. (p76) style; it’sPNG’smostnoted ( p83 ) andcontemplating the Bomana War Loloata Island National Botanical Varirata National Asia Asia ( p90) „ Parliament Haus AREA : 240 SQKM Aromas Asia Gardens Botanical National Parliament Haus ( p74 ) doneinSepik Loloata Island Cemetary Bomana War haus National Varirata Park were administered asoneterritory with ple of thePortMoresby area (andmuch of the home: theMotuand ThenativeKoitabu. peo- ferent tribalgroups,onlytwocantrulycallit While PortMoresby todayhasdozensof dif- lonelyplanet.com Port Moresby largely becoming thecapital hands throughout the war. Track. PortMoresby remained inAustralian alongtheKokoda for Alliedtroopsfighting when PortMoresby post becamethestaging Guinea andwere rapidlyadvancingsouth Japanese quicklyoccupiedallof northernNew until WWII.The and Bulolo,Rabaul forthegoldrushes inWau the supplybase still on duty. 78 fromleukaemiaatSamaraiIslandwhile as itwasknown,untilhisdeathin1940at Murray tookover administrationof Papua, years independentof British-colonial rule. onlyfivetory washandedtoAustralia,itself New Guineain1904,and1906theterri- appointed chief of judicialofficer British were SirHubertMurraywas established. Port Moresby andanationalpoliceforce 10-year administration,thegovernment in Under SirWilliamMacGregor’s remarkable of thenewlydeclared British NewGuinea. better than slave-dealers. cruited indentured labourers andwere little lowed bytraders and‘blackbirders’, whore- Missionary Societyarrived andwassoonfol- Oneyearlater,from civilisation?’ theLondon his diary,‘Whathave peopletogain these lifestyles, posingtherhetoricalquestionin was impressed withthepeopleandtheir days tradingwithvillagers atHanuabada. He sively alongthesouthcoastandspentseveral bour wasnamed.Moresby explored exten- John Moresby in1873,after whomthehar- downthe Tubuseraia Magi Hwy. atKokiVillage nearTownand also beseen can munities andstillexiststoday.Stilthouses (‘Great Village’) wasthelargest of theircom- on stiltsover Moresby Harbour. than 2000years ago. Motuvillages were built arrive untilrelatively recently, probably less peopleanddidn’t traditionally asea-going nantly Melanesian population.The Motu are of Polynesianpeople,unlike thepredomi- eastern tipof themainland)are descendents HISTORY After thewar,Papua andNewGuinea The first Europeantovisitwas Captain Port Moresby wasovershadowed byLae, In 1888PortMoresby becamethecapital PORT MORESBY ••History PORT you reach Koki,hometothemarket and untilruns alongsidepopularElaBeach the defactocentre of PortMoresby, with port, about11kmaway.Itisalsothebest land toHohola, Gordonsandtheair- City buildingsjustnorthof Town,in- Royal Papua Yacht ClubandtheHarbour the main PMV hub. the Kokoda Track.’s large busstopis branchthe right climbing easttoSogeri and heading norththen westtowardKerema and the airportroad divides,theleftbranch another stiltvillage. Afew kilometres past and the Gardens. Botanical ings, ontotheUniversity of PNG(UPNG) hotels andtheWaiganigovernment build- northwest fromBorokopastmore is anicepromenade. WaiganiDrstretches most interest fortravellers, ElaBeach though Boroko. are These thetwodistrictswith Townandis stillthebestroute between the onlyroadlinktoairportwithTown, interchangeably. Boroko thenamesFourMileand many peopleuse BorokoandHohola,that liesbetween but the western sideof HubertMurrayHwy is, strictlyspeaking,theneighbourhood on FourMile placestostay. rants andseveral moreeven shops,banks,restau- businesses, offices. government &ArtGallery,andmost National Museum route toWaigani,homeParliament, the restaurants, but few hotels. shopsandsomegoodTown hasbusinesses, bounded tothesouthbypopularElaBeach. andisthe shippingdocksandwharves, most of PortMoresby’s few olderbuildings, Hill, atthecity’ssouthwestend.Townhas perches onaspitof landthatendsinPaga ful. ThemodestCBDiscalledTown,and A touristmapandacompassare help- hilly andfew line. roadsfollowastraight ficult placetoget yourbearings–it’squite andinlandhills.Itcanbeadif- the coast rather thanasinglecity;itsprawlsaround Port Moresby isacollectionof districts ORIENTATION by Allied bombing. flattened hadbeen andRabaul such asLae by default–more attractive alternatives To thesouthof Town,themainroad Boroko isthedistrictthathasbecome The Poreporena Fwy runsfromthe The potholedHubertMurrayHwy,once

69 PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ

PORT MORESBY mngal book. manageable (2000), which isalsoavailable asafarmore part 1:10,000street mapof PortMoresby h Way,;6223; [email protected]; Melanesian like. the It’s available athotel reception desksand with mostplacesof interest clearlymarked. times each year,hasasimplecentrefold map Moresby, to Port Street Directory Nationwide Papua NewGuinea Business & telephone directory andtheubiquitousred Moresby are found inthefrontof thePNG The bestandmostup-to-date mapsof Port 70 Maps Haidana I To Lea 4 1 3 2 PORT MORESBY&AROUND The 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Porebada OTMRSY • nomto MORESBY ••Information PORT Malaria National Mapping Bureau National Mapping Point Daugo I SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION National BotanicalGardens...... UPNG Bookshop...... NCD TouristOffice...... (see8) Dive Centre...... (see3) A . Thefree booklet Stamava Pt publishedanumberof Sinavi Reef Ahearn Pt producesahuge two- Idler's Bay

Mp p77; (Map 2 1 C2 C2 B Fairfax Harbour Napa

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326 7375;UPNG,WaiganiDr,Waigani; ( Nateara Reef Rd Vagi Boe

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4 1 3 2 71 PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT PORT MORESBY prepaid SIMcards)are available fromthe Deloitte Tower,Douglas St, Town) ATMs. ones. CanuseVisa and MasterCard. St,Town)ATMsMusgrave are more reliable thanWestpac’s charge ofK20to change cash. Cirrus,Visa/PLUS,for Visa,MasterCard, There’s Maestro. a Express.las Sts)Agent Intheory,ATMs forAmerican work government-owned PNG Telekom’s B Mobile excellent Telikad system. should beworking. See p300 aboutusingthe outside thepostofficesinTownand Boroko At leasthalfof thephonesatairportand Telephone Sat) 11.30am St &ChampionPde,Town; Post Office Boroko PostOffice Post Westpac Bank SouthPacific ANZ BOROKO Westpac Bank SouthPacific ANZ TOWN money. on the international desk.See p296 formore changing cashortravellers cheques, askfor old waitingtochange yourmoney.Ifyou’re SouthPacific,Bank where you’lllikely grow ANZ andWestpacare more than efficient Money DentalCare Mills Pickworth Dr Richard DENTISTS Centre Medical Moresby Port Hospital General Moresby Port 72 Boroko; 8200; Taurama Rd, Korobosea) vac andhasadecompression chamber on site. h 6633; [email protected]; cnr Vaivai Ave St,Boroko; &Mavaru St & Angau Dr) Pde, Town)Good reputation. hours 3211298;Groundfl,MogornMotuBldg,Champion Douglas Sts)Agents forWestern Union. Prepaid kits(including mobilestart-up 24hr) Bestplaceinanemergency.Canarrangemedi- (Map (Map p77 ; (Map p75 ; OTMRSY • agr noacs MORESBY ••Dangers&Annoyances PORT h (Map (Map p77 ; (Map p77 ; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, Sat) (Map (Map p75 ; % % (Map (Map p75 ; 180 1444; Hubert Murray Hwy) Murray 180 1444;Hubert Has 180 1444;cnrChampionPde& % % (Map (Map p77 ; (Map (Map p77 ; (p75; % (Map (Map p75 ; 322 0888;NitaSt) &Doug- 322 0888;cnrMusgrave h % 300 3797; cnr Cuthbertson 300 3797;cnrCuthbertson 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, % 321 2444; cnr Musgrave & 321 2444;cnrMusgrave % % (Map (Map p77 ; 320 0600;1stfl, (Map (Map p77 ; % 300 3794;Tabari Pl, 323 2288;cnrNita 321 1137, after 321 1137,after % % 325 324 gest cheapsleepingoptionsif you’re desperate. inPNGplusinternationalflights. Canalsosug- of transport withallforms Catholic-run agencyispretty wellconnected Angau Dr,Boroko; Douglas St, Town) funded National Capital District funded NationalCapitalDistrict booth. tourism tional Airport; Westpac Travel Travel Dove Travel Agencies PromotionAuthority PNG Tourism Office NCD Tourism Kokoda TrackAuthority Tourist Information the great telecommunications debacle. Mobile andoneDigicel.See p300 formore on were carrying aroundtwomobiles–oneB and whenwevisited Moresby manypeople toeach twosystems other, don’ttalk These network aswellthenewcomerDigicel. Six Mile at anytime. After dark, don’twalk Don’t walkaround KilaKila,Sabamaor of theresidents (thatincludesHanuabada). out of unlessyouare thesettlements withone but don’twalkup there on yourown.Stay The viewfromPaga HillinTownisterrific, raskols local. Avoid urbanareas secluded atanytime; fine, butanywhere youshould walkwitha else hoursduring daylight should beabsolutely choice. WalkingaroundTownandBoroko arrive aboutwhatissafe, thenmake yourown can change quickly,soaskthelocalswhenyou to avoid trouble). youshould befine(see sense, p291 forhow yourcommonunscathed, andifyouuse majority of visitors toPortMoresby leave here been never make itouttobe. Thevast it’s notthehellonearththatmanywho’ve Port Moresby canbeadangerous place,but DANGERS &ANNOYANCES promotion. tion onaccommodation;it’smainlyaboutmarketing and h % guide orwanttojoin a trek. fora landowners etc. Goodplacetocomeifyou’re looking fees, liaiseswith trekking anddistributes Track –itcollects related totheKokoda body thatadministersactivities Plaza, Boroko; Bell 1stfl,Brian [email protected], There are noguarantees andthesituation 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Provideslimitedinforma- 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 320 0211;5thfl,MMIHaus,ChampionPde,Town; (bandits)are notstrictlynocturnal. (Map (Map p77 ; h h (Map (Map p75 ; h 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Small,under- 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Statutory 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) (Map (Map pp70-1 ; Jackson’sInterna- 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) % (Map (Map p77 ; % 325 9800;fax1451; 322 0663;fax0640; lonelyplanet.com % (TPA; Map p75 ; 325 1887; Douglas St) p75 ), isadjacenttoTown.It’sworthwalk- lonelyplanet.com a popular walk during the day, though thea popular walkduringthe day,though (Map p75 ). Thebeachfront promenadeis of stretch Townisthe long,sandy of reefs, butdon’tgoalone. Onthesouthern side over thetown,harbourand encircling ing tothetopof Paga Hillforthefineviews ing thatindicates its former significance. overlooking Townandtheport,there’s noth- Despitesellers. itsmajestic hilltopposition cent years; it’soccupiedbysquatters and thecountry’ssteady declineinre-symbolises independence. Sadly,theshellithasbecome was asignificantmilestoneonPNG’sroadto ofopening astheHouse Assembly in1964 an architecturalwas never wonder,butits Old Parliament Building of aSepik have animpressive inthestyle entranceportal (Map p75 St,Town) ; Musgrave Society in1890. ing isthe of thearea. Theoldestbuildingstillstand- ers andneglecthave steadily claimedmuch in PortMoresby’s CBD,where tow- office There islittleof historicalinterest remaining days. of of interesting withinacouple thingstosee unless youhave accesstoaboatyou’llrunout and thegovernment districtof Waigani,but Most of Port Moresby’s few are sights inTown sense. common situations where youare vulnerable. It’sjust to make atarget yourself in orputyourself anywhere. thingisnot Themostimportant Port MoresbyCity SIGHTS The harbourheadland, rested, onewasshotdeadandthethree boxes ofmoneyandseveral firearms were retrieved. handcuffed toatree inaswamp.After anexchange ofgunfire fourofthefive banditswere ar- a boatheadedforthemainland.The twomuddybutunharmedpilotswere later foundbypolice Moresby harbour. foradisusedWWIIairstriponDaugo(Fisherman’s)make IslandnearthemouthofPort pilotsandorderedimpostor securityguardspulledtheirgunsontheunsuspecting them to AU$2million incash(salariesforOkTedi twoshamsecurityguards. mineworkers)...and The Moresby boundforTabubil. inPort from Jackson’sAirport Aboardwere twoAustralian pilots, On 19November AirC90aircraftchartered byBankSouthPacific 2007aTropicairKing tookoff THE JACKSON’S AIRPORTJOB Three more banditswere andtheybundledthetwopilotsinto waitingtomeetthehijackers , openedbytheLondonMissionary Ela United Church Ela United haus tambaran PORT MORESBY ••Sights PORT St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral Catholic St Mary’s

(Map (Map p75 St,Town) ; MacGregor is not so old but it does isnotsooldbutitdoes

Mp p75; (Map (spirit house). The (spirit house). Paga Point % Ela Beach 321 7426; (Map buai

-

one’s picture; you’ll findthemmuch more be aproblem. Alwaysaskbefore some- taking perhaps) thencarrying acamerashouldn’t go withalocal(someone fromyourhotel, expensive camerasifyou’re alone,butifyou commerce. Don’tflasharoundyourjewelsor ourful placetowatch grassroots-stylePNG if you’re notshopping forproduce,it’sacol- offtheboatarestraight soldhere, buteven markets inthecity.Fresh produceandfish after avastimprovement safest in security, Market to dothatisbyvisitingtheneighbouring you canfindalocaltotake you.Thebestway eastern isworthvisitingif endof ElaBeach, The picturesque stiltvillage of Koki, atthe Koki someone. suggest a localguide,butyourhotel should beable to lages ifyouare notaguestorifyoudon’thave many traditional Motu customs. interesting placeand the peoplehave retained corrugated ironandfibrocement,butit’san rebuilt inall-Australian buildingmaterials, destroyed byfire duringWWII.Theywere the originalwoodandthatched were houses itisstillbuiltoverAlthough onstilts, thesea (Map p75 Past thedockstonorthlies Hanuabada ), theoriginalMotuvillage. pool. swimming prefer totake tothewaters atyourhotel urchins –youmightspiny andpainfulsea andblack, the shallowwater, thickseaweed lot of attention, butthebiggest threat maybe unsafe. Ifyoudoswimhere, you’llattracta Even localsperceive thisarea aspotentially aresands notfullof days. sunbathers these Hanuabada You cannotsimplywanderaroundthevil- (off Map (off p75 ), oneof theoldestand,

Koki Koki 73 PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT PORT MORESBY Sepik-style, Sepik-style, main buildingisin thestyleof aMaprik, or in 1984withPrince Charlesonhand.The orwhenparliamentissitting) Fri, 7377; IndependenceDr,Waigani; The impressive Parliament Haus outside the market. amenable ifyoubuysomething.PMVsstop 74 tached, circular cafeteria building follows can buy sellers. Then theygetonthebusagainandare gone. Borokoisthemainarea fortourists;they Japanese touristswillwalkthroughthesquare here photosofthe atBorokoandtake Moresby?Do youseemanytourists inPort clean. There’s The politiciansare corrupt–theyonlylookafter themselves. TodayMoresby isnotsafe, it’snot Australians were here (colonialtimes),butsincePNG’sindependencewehave gonebackwards. they’re notfightingorrobbingeachother. Moresby usedtobeabeautifulplacewhenthe have muchmoneytogive. mymusic. Buttheylike It’sgood–whenpeoplelisten tomypipes So thesedaysyouplayinthestreets forpeople’sloosechange? trenchment payment. crazy inBougainville. In2001thePNGDFdownsized. Someofusare stillfightingforourre- rendered justtogetsomefood.ConditionsonBougainvillewere very bad.Things gotreally and rebel inthemountains. soldierswere outofthebushandsur- Manyjustwalked starving oftheBougainvilleIslandfighting againstourPNGbrothers. Wehadtoenforcetheblockade civilwar),butIfelt badaboutI didtwotoursofdutytoBougainville(duringthedecade-long government. The Kumulshelpedputdowntherebellion intwoweekswithoutfiringashot. that wenttoVanuatu whenJimmyStevens ledasecessionistmovement againstWalter Lini’s Did youseeactive inthearmy? service Force) Pipe Band. colony). IwenttoAustralia in1971and1985withthePNGDF(Papua New GuineaDefence the Australian Command(backwhenNewGuineawasanAustralian Defence Force’sNorthern Where didyoulearntoplaythebagpipes? Square orinTown. Malalaua, buthecallshimselftheBlackScotsman.Twoorthree timesaweekheplaysinBoroko busker. Moresby’sTony Tore onlybagpipe-playing is57andPort He’saGulfcountrymanfrom VOICES: TONY TORE,THEBLACK SCOTSMAN tanim tingtingblomi from hiswife. HewenttotheATM, andgave boughtmeaCoke meK5.Hesaid,‘ Yes, mymusic. butpeoplelike Onetimeadrunkmancametowatchmeplay.Hehadrunaway You getbigcrowdstoo!YourScottishbagpipemusicseemsvery exotichere Moresby. inPort dressed andgetbigcrowds. get evangelistsfromAmericawhopreach inthesquare. They’re they’re great well performers, There are often preachers here inBorokoandtheyusuallypreach inTokPisin. Sometimeswe I’ve often seensoapbox preachers here inBorokoSquare. Are youtheonlybuskerhere? OTMRSY • ihs MORESBY ••Sights PORT bilums haus tambaran, Parliament Haus buai (string bags) and carvings here. (stringbags)andcarvings (betel nut)everywhere. (yourmusicchangedmymind).’Andhesetofftoapologise tohiswife. was officially opened was officially h 8am-noon &1-3pmMon- whiletheat- Mp p77; (Map % In 1980 I was part oftheKumulForcePNGDF In 1980Iwaspart 327 In thearmy.On20June1968,Ienlisted with Some butnotmany.Sometimesabusloadof of butterflies, including thenative fantastic fullshare displaycases spacewithseveral maskslizard skin).Inside, huge Sepik drums (anhourglass-shaped drumwith handles aredoors whose stylised shots inthelate afternoon light. willberewardedwide-angle lenses withgreat PNGmotifs.Photographersmistakably with quite featuring un- stunning,withamosaic Highland designprinciples. ThefaçadeisHighland The cavernous lobby isentered through People are poor,theydon’t lonelyplanet.com Music bloyu bilum kundu

lonelyplanet.com ness parliament when it’s sitting. A taxi from ness parliament whenit’ssitting. Ataxi forbidden. is stairs. Photography insideParliament Haus arecases easy tomiss;they’re underthe some very large Thedisplay stickinsects. largest and witha30cmwingspan)beetles Alexandra’sBirdwing (theworld’sQueen 4 1 3 2 5 TOWN &ELABEACH(PORTMORESBYCITY) It’s possibletovisit thechamber and wit- 14 SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Bank SouthPacific...... ANZ Bank...... Weigh InnHotel...... Ela BeachHotel...... Crowne Plaza...... St Mary’sCatholicCathedral...... Paga Point...... Old ParliamentBuilding...... Ela UnitedChurch...... Ela Beach...... Westpac Travel...... (see10) Westpac Bank...... USA Embassy...... Steamships Arcade...... (see19) Post Office...... Police Station...... Authority...... (see26) PNG TourismPromotion Mills DentalCare...... (see22) Japanese Embassy...... French Embassy...... (see1) B4 Fastlink BroadbandInternetCafé.. Dr RichardPickworth...... Deloitte Tower...... (see22) Datanets InternetCafé...... INFORMATION H arbou M oresby Main Wharf Lookout Paga Hill

Chalmers AC Bougainville

Cres Cres PORT MORESBY ••Sights PORT 6

28 Cuthbertson St Cuthbertson ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

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St Musgrave St Musgrave 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 1 Wharf 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 4 2 27 15 Bramell St Champion Terminal B4 B4 C2 C4 B4 B5 A5 B4 B4 B5 B4 A4 A4 B4 A4 B4 B4 7 21 Cargo 24 Douglas St 5 29 TOWN 19 Stanley Esp

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3 Hunter St Hunter MacGregor

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Ela Beach Recreation Reserve

17 Poreporena Fwy Reservoir Independence Dr,Waigani;admission K12; All theexhibitsat National Museum Building, andwalk about 2km northeast. Dr, get outatthewhite, emptyPineapple Alternatively, take aPMValongWaigani Boroko costsabout K15orK20fromTown. Kermadec St Aivos Ave St Port Rd HARBOUR Daugo DrDavetari Dr 22 21 20 19 W alterBy ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

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(9km) B4 A4 B4 B4 B5 B4

75 PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT PORT MORESBY wise lacklustrewise city.Don’tmiss them!There of calmandbeautyinthemidstof another- student/family K8/3/5/10; 0248; www.ncbg.org.pg; WaiganiDr,Waigani;adult/child/ entrance tothePortMoresby harbour Passage easy reach ifyouhave access to a boat. popular; see p90 . other islandsaroundtheharbour are also pp70–1 there isnoshade. The your ownwater andsunprotection because popular forweekend beach trips,butcarry day. get youmight askedcards right, outforthe is busyonweekends. Ifyouplay yourcharm p75). (Map infrontofstands theRoyalPapua Yacht Club craft intheearlydaysof WWII. Itsmastnow Hanuabada.off ItwassunkbyJapanese air- breaking thesurfaceinMoresby Harbour, MV MacDhui The wreck of theBurnsPhilp cargo ship Islands, Beaches&Reefs to them). see (theonlychanceparadise mostvisitors get large aviary parrotsandbirdsof thathouses hornbills, cassowaries,agiantpython,and lent wildlife displays,such astree kangaroos, orchids in PNG.There are alsosomeexcel- ably thebestcollectionof native andhybrid both localandexoticplantspecies,prob- lawnsandgardensdisplayingmaintained thejunglecanopy,well- under andthrough is more than2kmof boardwalkthreading the yond theUniversity of Papua NewGuinea, At thenorthernendof WaiganiDr,justbe- National BotanicGardens courtyard. the the few birds,lizardsandsnakes livingin is notallowed,butyoucantake pictures of showing how decorated incowrieshells,canoe andadisplay outrigger totems, amagnificentMilneBay are superbexamplesof masks,shieldsand ture, ethnographyandhistoryof PNG.There displays thatcover thegeography, fauna,cul- can happilyspendanhourorsolookingatthe Haus, situnderafinefilmof dust.Butyou 1-3.30pmSun) Mon-Fri, 76 Many expatshave boatsandtheyacht club There are manyinteresting placeswithin National BotanicGardens Manubada (Local)Island Manubada OTMRSY • ciiis MORESBY ••Activities PORT (Map pp70–1 M0225 ; southeastof PortMoresby) andthe (Map pp70 bilums ,

just beyondParliament h are made. Photography M0226 ) is the deep, narrow ) isthedeep, Bootless Bay 9am-4pm)  1 M0222 ) can be seen just ) canbeseen (Map pp70–1

(Map pp70-1 ; pp70-1; (Map are anisland area (Map % Basilisk M0224 ) is 326 group size increases. perpersonfallsasthe Kokoda Tracktours(K745).Theprice Varirata NationalPark tours (K255)andfull-dayTaste of Moresby Town(perpersonK135),full-dayand Port toursof includingthree-hour but professional daytrips, pricey hols.com; HolidayInn,IslanderDr,Hohola)Several est). They’llcustomisetourstosuit your needs. locally ownedtouroperators(butbynomeansthecheap- .em.com.pg; IEPNGHouse,Gordons)Thisisthebestof Ecotourism Melanesia Ecotourism day based tours also. offer Kokodatrekking, buttheydoMoresby- Track see p93 . Thecompanieslisted here also For organised tours thatwalktheKokoda TOURS plus K20to hire clubs. Golf Club costs K275. Very professional. tours. Atwo-dive outingincludingallgear air, andawiderange of divingandsnorkelling offers fullPADI courses (K1175), equipment, Mile) Seven .pg; poolsideatAirwaysHotel&Apartments, Centre dive operatorinMoresby isthe itself a popularholidayspotfordivers. Theonly and WWIIwreckage. Island( Loloata p90 ) is hasworld-classBootless divingover Bay reefs The divingaroundPortMoresby isexcellent. ACTIVITIES of beaches.white-sand Fisherman’s Island,which haslovely stretches ing pp70–1 and there’s thebeautiful nearby HMS Moresby afternamed byCaptain hisship, The festival isheld at Ela Beach. for food.There’s contest. aMiss HiriQueen region where theyexchanged earth-fired pots tradersitionally brought homefromtheGulf and celebrate theshiftintradewinds thattrad- ebrations. Motupeopleracegiant canoes 16 tocoincidewithIndependence Daycel- MoaleFestival Hiri of Parliament Haus ( p74 ). OrchidSpectacular International FESTIVALS &EVENTS hoststheIn earlyAugustthecapital Holidays Niugini A roundatthewell-managed Port Moresby’s isthethree-day bigevent Daugo Island

Basilisk. Mp pp70-1; (Map M0228 ) outsidethepassage andtheadjoin-

Nateara Reef Nateara Mp p77; (Map (Map (Map p77 ; The SS (Map pp70–1 % , celebrated around September , celebrated aroundSeptember % 325 5367;Waigani) (Map (Map p77 ; (Map pp70–1 323 1355;www.divecentre.com Pruth % 323 6486;www.ng Sinasi Reef % waswrecked on M0229 ), alsoknownas lonelyplanet.com inthegrounds 323 4518;www costsK110, Port Moresby Moresby Port M0227 ) in1924, (Map Dive Dive . It lonelyplanet.com 4 6 1 3 2 WAIGANI 5 BOROKO &WAIGANI BADILLI

Koura Way Wards Rd Manu Autoport Boroko 'WorldTradeCentre' C3 Gordons Market...... Thrifty...... (see 26) (BorokoPMVStop)...... Gordons MarketPMVStop...... (see 32) PNG Arts...... Handicrafts Market...... Brian BellPlaza...... Market...... Mustang Sally’s...... (see30) Gold Club...... (see26) Yun SueRestaurant...... Spirit Room...... (see23) Roundhouse Restaurant...... Restaurant 168...... Mr BCoffeeShop...... (see39) Jepello...... Grand Palace...... Cellar...... (see 30) Ang’s Restaurant...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING

Gordia St 26 HOHOLA Dr Waigani AC PORT MORESBY ••Boroko&Waigani PORT 35 Ground Cricket

Islander Pineapple 37

Dr Building 24 Ave Kumul ὈὈ ὈὈ

Torokina Ave St JohnGuise 34

Stadium Sir John Guise Dr

Poreporena Fwy Cameron Rd Kunui St Dr Waigani

Somare 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 7

M C6 B4 C6 C5 C6 A3 C5 A1 A3 B3 C4 Strip Wards elanesian

11

16

Kaeme

Rd

Wards Circuit

BARRACKS

Ahuia St Inus MURRAY

B

St Ave Legi Garden Hills Way ὈὈ ὈὈ Dr 2 GORDON

Cres

Goroa St 33

Taurama Rd Taurama Hubert Murray Hwy Godwit St Independence Dr

19 Gordon

Koani St Koani Kennedy Rd Kennedy 18

Varahe Rd Sandpiper Ugava St Ugava

Soare St Woodcock 10 41

Ume Kitogara St

Circuit Stores Rd Stores

Waigani Dr Waigani St 6

Ago Rd 9 20 Lahara 30 Munahu St 14 31

42

Gabaka St Magani Cres St Lokua Ave Lokua Nilkare Ave Reke St Korokist St 21

13 Magi Toi Rd Kekeke St Tabari Pl

St Course Diho Ave 17 St 12

orata St Golf 40 M

Ave St Turumu GORDON 28 NORTH 25

BOROKO 1 St Okari 39 3

Grammar School To PortMoresby 32 Nita St Angau

8 38

Dr 4 36 22 Boroko Dr Boroko Poreporena Fwy Laurabada 5

Angau Dr Hagwa Henao Dr

Ave 0 0.5 miles 0.5 800m 0 0 Nuana Rd Nuana

St

Vaivai Av Vaivai C6 Comfort Inn...... Shady RestHotel...... Ponderosa FamilyHotel...... Mapang MissionaryHome...... Magila Motel...... Lamana Hotel...... Jessie WyattHouse...... Holiday Inn...... Hideaway Hotel...... SLEEPING Solomon IslandsHigh B2 Australian HighCommission...... Port MoresbyGolfClub...... Parliament Haus...... Paradise AdventureTours...... (see23) Niugini Holidays...... (see24) National Museum...... Ecotrourism Melanesia...... Westpac Bank...... Commission...... Port MoresbyMedicalCentre.... Port MoresbyGeneralHospital.. Paradise PrivateClinic...... New ZealandHighCommission.. National MappingBureau...... National Library&Archives...... Kokoda TrackAuthority...... (see39) Indonesian Embassy...... Dove Travel...... Datec...... British HighCommission...... Boroko PostOffice...... Boroko PoliceStation...... Bank SouthPacific...... ANZ Bank...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Kaubebe St Medaha

29 St Henao Dr Henao

Hunu Pl

15 Bisini Pde Bisini

Mavaru Hwy Murray Hubert Gere Gere Av Gere Gere

Boroka Dr Boroka

Ororo

St

Cres

M D Kanaga St Kanaga orea-Tobo Rd orea-Tobo Bava St Tamara Rd 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 23 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 27

Magila Rd C6 C4 C6 D3 A3 C6 A3 D4 C1 C1 B1 B4 C5 B4 D6 C6 C6 C1 B2 B1 C2 C6 B3 C2 C6 C5 C6 C5

77 PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT PORT MORESBY .com.pg; Magila St, Six Mile; ‘backpacker’ s/dK50/75,d ‘backpacker’ St,SixMile; .com.pg; Magila Rd, Gordons; d/fK115/175). Ponderosa Family Hotel Midrange up tooffsite. Where do I sign? and respectful, theydon’t mindwhatyouget there are nocurfews and,provided you’re quiet the wholepremises isanalcohol-free zone,but book wellahead.Theinterior issmoke-free and mostly tochurch workers andisoften fullso With acoupleof familyrooms,Mapang caters each roomsoyoucanpluginyourlaptop. broadbandinternetcomplimentary wired to lounge, kitchen andlibrary,comeswith budget optioninMoresby. Ithasacommunal Kiwimissionary couple–it’sthebest affable Boroko, iscleanasawhistleandrunbyan breakfast K70/110/140; Ave, 5251; [email protected];Lahara Boroko;dm/s/dincl Friday and8amnoon Saturday only. 8amand4pmMondayto Check inbetween locals. Theroomsare few demand. andinhigh New Guineansandit’sagoodplacetomeet mostlybyPapuaeach room.It’spatronised kitchen, free tea andcoffee, andafridge in clean, quietandhomelywithacommunal Women’s Association, thischurchy placeis Rd, Boroko;s/twperpersonK70/60) value. fair far end.It’sinabadneighbourhood, butit’s untillate, soaskforaroomatthe rough!) tached Magila GorillaClubcanberowdy(and private bathroomandsatellite TV. Theat- K130-150; Motel Magila Budget are inclusive of VAT. have afree airportshuttle. Priceslisted here into Town.Allmidrange andtop-endplaces Hubert MurrayHwy,oneof onlytworoutes all PMVroutes stopatitsbigbusonthe and themostconvenient locationasalmost really thecentre of activityinPortMoresby a few others scattered Borokois inbetween. (sometimes calledWaigani)andTown,with near theairport,inSixMile,Boroko,Hohola most expensive. There Mile are placesatSeven Moresby andare collectively thecountry’s arePlaces tostay scattered allover Port SLEEPING 78 o Jessie WyattHouse Jessie For more onaccommodation,see p282 . OTMRSY • leig MORESBY ••Sleepimg PORT a Mapang Missionary Home Missionary Mapang ) This cleanplacehasroomswith

Mp p77; (Map ai (Map (Map p77 ;

Thiswas onceanAir Mp p77; (Map % ) RunbytheCountry Mapang, incentral 325 0536;www.magila % % 325 3646;Taurama (Map p77; (Map

323 4888;Nuana % 325 325 cnitnl good. consistently a hotel.com.pg; offWaiganiDr,Hohola;dK275-320,aptK310; TV, fridge andphone,behindapopular TV, This placehasgood-value roomswith want togo,butit’snotasafe area towan- hotel minibus willchauffer youwherever you able andthehotel facilitiesare excellent.The roomsandvastsuites arestandard comfort- it’s great value. Thecompactbutspotless is adodgyneighbourhood, but otherwise K330; modationpng.com.pg; Tamara dK175-280,ste Rd,SixMile; classic backpacker haven. and internet café),ComfortInnwouldbea big hotels, andwithalickof paint(andabar This innhasnoneof thepretensions of the you canstowyourownintheroomfridges. dinner K30)aren’t but bad.It’sunlicensed, hustle andbustle,themeals(lunch and pool are fromMoresby’s aquietsanctuary midrange optioninthecity.Thegardenand rather unloved rooms,thisisthebest-value if andcomfortable terrific friendlyservice minutes’ walkfromcentralBoroko,andwith 220, aptK340-395; Pl,Boroko;dinclbreakfast K176- [email protected]; Mairi palace. poker-machine [email protected]; Poreporena Fwy;rK150-180; friendly, andina quiet area. Niugini residence. It’ssimple,cleanand plenty of facilities.There are acouple of bars worn rooms,andthere ifslightly fortable are chain isaMoresbySea institution, withcom- from theairport, thismemberof theCoral apt K505; Morea-Tobo d280-455, .coralseahotels.com.pg; Mile; Rd,Seven is taurant good too. ( p81 ) willbeanattraction.ThePalazzo res- Gold Club is yourthing,thentheattached isgood.Ifnightclubbing able, andtheservice not a long time. of thepatronsare there toshare agoodtime, rates whichmeanthatsome ‘day use’ might decent rooms;it’sasolidoption.Italsooffers has bars, goodrestaurants (see opposite ) and rest.com.pg; Taurama Rd,Boroko; dK190-210; (meals K35;open6amto10pm der aroundalone. SpiritRoom Theattached Gateway Hotel Hotel Gateway Hotel Shady Rest o Weigh InnHotel Hideaway Hotel Hideaway Lamana Hotel ) Theroomshere are large andcomfort- as as Comfort Inn Comfort ) This placeisinSixMile,which ) as

Located oneminute’s drive Mp p77; (Map Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

Mp p77; (Map Mp pp70-1; (Map

Mp p77; (Map Mp p75; (Map

Mp p77; (Map ) In aquietlocationtwo % % % % 323 2333;www.lamana 323 6888;www.accom % % 323 0000;www.shady 321 7777;theweigh ) restaurant is 325 5091;comfort 325 3855;www a ) This a )

the top-endhotels, asthe pitching itself inn.com.au; IslanderDr,Hohola;rK605-770,steK1120; from K347; ElaBeachRd,Beach;dK314-347,apt seahotels.com.pg; crowd. local pizzastoamixed passable serves downstairs ‘n’Humpizzeria and restaurants; theRattle Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels which comewithfree of use theclublounge. a partyintheexecutive suites andapartments, rooms are notallthatbig,but youcouldthrow floors of neatly fitted-out rooms.Thestandard and hascommanding viewsfromitsnine ais plaza.com; cnrDouglas&HunterSts,Town;rK649-930; not worththe price tag. international hotel, butit’sinabadarea and with allthefacilitiesyou’dexpect froman ais for lunch or a drink. attheAirways,it’sworthdroppingby staying Lounge, insideanoldDC-3.Even ifyou’re not andlivetables andtheDakota entertainment, withpool Bar, bars Casino includingBalus wonderful KC’s Deli(open7amto7pm) the airport.There are tworestaurants, the suites) andclassyamenitiestwominutes from to roomsthrough (ranging fromstandard bar area islovely. Airwaysoffers luxuryrooms over theairportandpoolsidelounge-and- do withPortMoresby. views Ithasspectacular fect placeforthevisitorwhowantsnothingto 787, steK1650; rK577- Mile; 5200; www.airways.com.pg; Jackson’sPde,Seven count youcan think of. worth askingforanysortof corporate dis- and are expensive inanyone’slanguage. It’s byvisitingbusinesspeople mostly patronised K40 perhour. Moresby’s deluxe hotels are hotel business centres K30and forbetween the for aboutK8010hours, oryoucanuse and in-roominternet accesscanbearranged and minibar.TV Receptionisopen24hours All roomsinthisbracket comewithsatellite Top End one of Moresby’s best live-music venues. restaurant ( Brasserie andOzzie’sBar p81 ), ing features includetheexcellentBeachside cation, theroomsare overpriced. Itsredeem- refit, butasidefromtheprimebeachfront lo- group,thishotel hasrecently hadanice Sea Ela Beach Hotel Ela BeachHotel Crowne Plaza Holiday Inn Airways Hotel &Apartments Airways Hotel as ) ) This place is comfortable enough enough Thisplaceiscomfortable This isright ais

Mp p77; (Map

Mp p75; (Map ) Alsooperated bytheCoral

Mp p77 ; (Map ) Airways isthepickof %

in theheartof Town % % 303 2000;www.holiday 309 3000;www.crowne

Mp pp70-1; (Map PORT MORESBY ••Eating&Drinking PORT 321 2100;www.coral %

per- and 324 a feed-off between Ichizena feed-off between andDaikoku, we Bldg, HarbourCity;meals K25-90; Waigani Dr,Waigani;mealsK25-40; Export, IceandBrown,areExport, very good. presented steamed whole coral trout. cuisine. Trytheyumcha orthebeautifully 6-10pm; Rd,Gordons; mealsK25-70; Bldg, Kennedy leave roomforthe homemade gelato. andwood-firedpastas pizzas are good,but Moresby’s restaurant. bestItalian The fresh inanotherdodgy area,Station isJepello, WaiganiDr,behindoff theInteroil Service K25-50; than thedullsurroundings suggest. might Malay –better andIndiandishes are served 168wherethe Restaurant someinteresting cha) is popular. excellent value. TheSundaydimsum(yum good andthelunchtime deals(K15)are food,thisisprettyFor authenticChinese St, Boroko;mealsK18-35; Roundhouse Restaurant Restaurants for the cheapest bottle. much less commonandyou’llpayatleastK45 wine,importedHowever, fromAustralia,is Asian expat community. good Asian restaurants thatcater tothelarge hotels and restaurants, andthere are many urge forfresh atMoresby’s fishandseafood meal.Youcanindulgefor anevening your hotels andrestaurants are theonlyoption kai fresh meals,but,like andlight sandwiches the rants. There are afew coffee shopsthatprepare bars (takeaway foodbars) andpriceyrestau- Moresby, butlittletofillthevoidbetween There are someexcellentrestaurants inPort the Moresby diningoptionsare ablessing. and provinces eating way inrecent years. After afew inthe weeks Moresby’s restaurant scenehascomealong nightclub. Tavern ing, restaurants, bars, acaféandthePondo There iswi-fi thebuild- accessthroughout EATING &DRINKING Jepello GolfClub Moresby Port Beer Daikoku Grand Palace bars, sothe they’re bynight-time closed tinpis h a (bia)

Mp p77; (Map

10am-2pm &5-10pmMon-Sat; ) (tinnedfish),travellers willfind Mp p75; (Map This is the top spot for Chinese ThisisthetopspotforChinese isubiquitousandSPbrews,

Mp p77; (Map kaukau % % h 323 6800; Inki St,Hohola;meals 323 6800;Inki

Mp p77; (Map 321 0255;AndersonsFoodland % 10am-2pm &5-10pm; Mp p77; (Map (sweet potato), rice potato), (sweet h 311 2826; RH Hypermart 311 2826;RHHypermart a 10am-10pm; % ) Upstairs is h 325 8899; Okari 325 8899;Okari % a 11am-2pm & 325 1868; a ) Just a In ) 79 kai

)

PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT PORT MORESBY atmosphere. sloppy pizzasinaconvivial,family-friendly Morea-Tobo mealsK35; Mile; Rd,Seven Gordons; mealsK30-50; meals K45-60; lunchtime buffet isgood butit’s not cheap. Douglas &HunterSts,Town; Cafe ing coffee shops are where to go: of good wine. Indiandishes. There’sseveral awideselection steak (K52),fish (K40),oysters (K40)and agoodmixof dishesincluding Hotel serves decorated, softly litplaceattheShady Rest 500g steak for K60. andawhopping goodseafood They serve The pizzas(K25toK49)are thebestintown. is agoodchoice formoderately pricedfood. Hotel ( inElaBeach brasserie pleasant p79 ) Rd, ElaBeach;mealsK35-60; sour. than to. Refreshingly, thepricesare more sweet knowwho’llyouwillbesittingnextnever ministers, expatsandthewell-to-do,soyou popular withtheMoresby’s glitterati, cabinet grass andchilli are Thisplaceis fantastic. table.evening TheThaiprawnswithlemon- good it’sworthbookingaheadtosecure an here are soThai dishes andfriendly service Sat, 9.30am-2.30pmSun; h Steamships Plaza,ChampionPde,Town;mealsK35-60; delicious lunchtime bentobox costs K26. prepared, andartfullyarrayedontheplate. A teppanyaki, sushi are andsashimi expertly Champion Pde,Town;mealsK30-75; prices. The foodatreasonabletrip forexcellentChinese is unsavoury after dark.Butit’sworththe locked uplike FortKnox; thispartof Gordons bento boxes cost K23. great skillandshowmanship. Lunchtime your mealonahotplate with atyourtable are very good.Atdinner,chefs willprepare sushi, andotherJapanese sashimi favourites restaurant inMoresby The –outstanding! thistobethebestJapanesenarrowly chose 80 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-10.30pmSat&Sun; 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, o Ichizen Cellar Beachside Brasserie If you’re fix,thefollow- acaffeine needing ‘n’HumPizzeria Rattle Ang’s Restaurant 8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm&5.30-10pm8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, (Map p75; (Map OTMRSY • netimn MORESBY ••Entertainment PORT

Mp p77; (Map

Mp p75; (Map Asia Aromas Asia h tôm yam % 6am-10pm; 309 3000;CrownePlaza Hotel,cnr % % h

Mp p77; (Map Mp p75; (Map

(Map p75 ; (Map 320 3000;1stfl,SteamshipsPlaza, 323 0000;Taurama Rd,Boroko;

soupis just right. 7.30am-10pm; a h h

Mp pp70-1; (Map ) 6.30am-10.30pm; a 6.30am-10pm; The Chinese andThe Chinese % h % % ) 323 0863; Munahu St, 323 0863;Munahu a This tastefully 11.30am-2.30pm & 321 2100;ElaBeach 321 4780;Groundfl, ) a This serves Thisserves % ) Ang’sis a a 327 8162; a ) The The ) The ) Bell Plaza,Boroko; ad fruit. and oftry, hasanexcellentselection vegetables (Map p77 ), oneof thelargest inthecoun- ThebustlingGordonsMarketfresh seafood. head foragoodrange of fruitandveg, plus p77 ) behind are thepostoffice theplacesto marketBoroko ‘WorldTradeCentre’ (Map Koki Market Map (off pp70–1 Self-Catering Yun SueRestaurant Ela BeachCafe options are listed here. with Borokobeingthe There are allmannerof Quick Eats Mr BCoffeeShop Bar Espresso to K40), and the club is decorated with lots to K40), and theclubisdecorated withlots The foodisgoodand reasonably priced(K22 andwatchingdrinking coldbeer theharbour. deckforsitting, a niceplacewith a pleasant any grassrootshere. it’s won’t see Pity because last bastionof post-colonialwhite elitism–you Poreporena Fwy; the yacht club. Port Moresby or willbefoundinanightclub Wednesday. Whatlittlelive musicthere isin guide onthe ‘What’sOn’entertainment The and nightclubs. has afew live-music venues andsomediscos While it’snotNewYorkCity,PortMoresby ates of theUniversity of PNG’smusicschool. someare inthecapital; cians gigging gradu- Port Moresby. There are someexcellent musi- PNG’s thrivingmusicindustryrelocated to After the1994volcaniceruptionsinRabaul, ENTERTAINMENT Port Moresby andthey’re allwell stocked. and light meals. 8.30am-2pmSat; Fri, Deloitte Tower,DouglasSt,Town; lunches of simple eateryhascoffee, beerand of ElaBeach,thisrustic-looking Beach; mealsK9-15; pastries, lightmealsandgood pastries, coffee. Goroka craziness oftheBorokostreets. Freshly madesandwiches, a large Chinese lunches. good,cheapand Waigani Dr,Waigani;mealsK10)Serves Royal Papua Yacht Club There are numeroussupermarkets around ) Quietandcool,thisisarefuge fromthefilthand (Map p75; (Map a (Map (Map p75 ; kai h (Map p77 (Map h . ) a Thislarge airyplace is the (Map (Map p77 ; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30pm) Atthewestend ) Thisplaceprovidesgoodcoffee % % Post Courier M0247 321 6600;Groundfl, ; kai

% 685 3918;BramellSt,Ela Mp p75 ; (Map h % capital. Thebetter capital. kai 325 5411; 1st fl, Brian 325 5411;1stfl,Brian 7.30am-5pm Mon- lonelyplanet.com 325 6011;off bars around, % M024A ) andthe publishes 321 1700; carvings, kina-shell breast plates, shelljewel- carvings, the bestplacetobuy the CrownePlazaHotel; more milling & HunterSts,Town; posed tohave posed amembersignyouin,butlittle Toto,ChristopherCross.You’reEagles, sup- ing ‘yacht thespeakers, rock’through such as it’sasteady dietofbut otherwise easy-listen- memorabilia. There’s sometimeslive music, of interesting WWIIphotosandmaritime lonelyplanet.com the ways of touristsand will happilyengage in lery andthelike. Moresby’s are sellers to used h works byJohn Siune–all collectable. highly PNG’s mostfamousartist(see p45 ), aswell as Kauage, sonsof thelate Mathias Kauage, themselves. makers pieces, butweprefer tobuydirectly fromthe hotels have giftshops which stocksomenice mostly contemporary paintings.Thebigger ( p79 ) inHohola there are often artdisplays; Hotel ( p78 ) inSixMileandtheHolidayInn away. AcrosstheroadfromGateway the bighotels, butthey’ve shooed allbeen andpaintingsoutside carvings tosell used condiments, there’s notmuch tobuy.Artisans tle clothing,andapartfrombetel nutandits Ah, no. There are very nodesignershoes, lit- Milan, Paris, NewYorkCity…PortMoresby? SHOPPING cue orwomenof bestto thenight, steer clear. fended byloudmusic,theoddswingingpool experience –rawandspirited. Ifyou’re of- Hotel ( p78 ), thisoffers amore ‘genuine’ PNG Boroko; dancing. than can mixitwiththelocalswholove to dance. back andunprepossessing placewhere you andit’salaid- Friday andSaturdaynights, Beach; A there’s noriff-raff. top spot. be inNewYorkCity.Themusicisgoodand gives theimpression thatthiscould,actually, air dancefloorsurroundedbylayers of bars it’s given over toDJsanddancing.Theopen- butotherwise music acoupleof aweek, nights Waigani Dr,Hohola; charm (andwhite skin)should see you in. Handicrafts Market Handicrafts Sally’s Mustang Pondo Tavern Ozzie’s Bar Gold Club Look outforpaintingsbyJohn andChris 8am-5pm) h h 9am-2am) 9am-2am) Boroko’sdustycentral square is

Mp p77; (Map

Mp p75; (Map h Thishaslive musicThursday, PORT MORESBY ••Shopping PORT Mp p75; (Map

h Mp p77; (Map Attached totheShady Rest 11am-5am) 11am-4.30am) % %

(Map (Map p77 ; Tabari Pl,Boroko; bilums, 323 2333;LamanaHotel;off 321 2100; % % This clubhaslive 309 3000;cnrDouglas 323 0000;Taurama Rd, Highland hats, Highland

Ela BeachHotel, Underneath Cuthbertson Cuthbertson St, Town) 1st fl,Pacific Place,Musgrave St, Town) out of PortMoresby. Many freighters dohave There are noregular boatssailing passenger Boat Qantas MAF Airlines PNG Air Niugini there’s nowhere youcan’t get to. wing andhelicopter flyers –ifyouhave thecash Moresby is alsohometomanycharter fixed- ifanotherflyertakes themup.Port to beseen marginally profitable anyway,soitremains travel scene. Many of Airlink’sroutes were leaving asignificantholeinthedomesticair- many smallandremote airstrips, wentbroke – string domesticcarrierAirlink,which serviced prices, see p313 . Justbefore ourvisit,third- internationally (see p306 ). Forroutes and where inPNGandanywhere AirNiuginiflies linkPortMoresbyFlights tovirtuallyevery- Air GETTING THERE&AWAY Artissmall In Town,Beyond and pricy. Town; organised. be accepted andfreight can anddocumentation The pricesare reasonable, credit cardsare collection of wares fromallover thecountry. long-running PNGArtswarehouse hasahuge Gordons; with goodcrowdsanda party atmosphere. month) Saturday ofevery p77; Map to the carnival atmosphere. traditional dancers (about10am)contribute koteka baskets, shells andweavings youcanpoke a ket inPNG,withallthepaintings,carvings, month) noon lastSaturdayofevery Beach InternationalSchool, bargaining. on gling isconsidered rude. See p299 formore some friendlynegotiation,butprotracted hag- .com.pg; Groundfl,MMIHouse,Champion Pde, Town) International Airport) 2668; www.maf.org.au; Aviation General Jackson’s section, Beyond Art PNG Arts Some airlineoffices inPortMoresby: Market GrammarSchoolCraft Moresby Port Market ElaBeachCraft (Mission Aviation (Mission Fellowship; Map p75 ; h (penis gourd) at. Barbecued foodand (penisgourd)at.Barbecued Mp p75; (Map h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pmSat,10am-1pmSun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, % (Map (Map p75 ; 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat,10am-3pmSun)

(Map (Map p75 ; 323 6577;Leander St; (Map p77; (Map

Mp p75; (Map % 321 1200;www.qantas.com.au; % Another monthly event Anothermonthlyevent %

Ela BeachRd,Beach; % 327 3444;www.airniugini % 325 0555;www.apng.com;

Mp p75; (Map 325 3976;Poreporena Fwy, Thisisthebestmar- 320 2257;ChampionPde, h % 8am-noon 2nd % 325 2838;Ela 325 h The

7am-

(off 81

PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT PORT MORESBY canoe. A series of Aseries canoe. hopsalongthesouthcoast and 4WDs, andthemajor names alsohave The airportisfull of companiesrenting cars Car &4WD takes youtoTownviaFour Mile (Boroko). ternational terminal andcostK0.70.PMV10 PMVs leave fromabout 50meastof thein- or both,todothisifyoudon’tknow thecity. very confidentordesperately short of cash, tobe tion istotake aPMV,butyouneed and toTownit’sabout K30.Thethirdop- toWaiganiorBoroko should costK20, taxi tonegotiateneed thefare before youleave. A which have meters (thatactuallywork),you’ll less youspota shop beside the café. mestic terminal, buyaphonecardfromthe thephoneforfree.you canuse Inthedo- wherehall, gointotheNCDTouristOffice ride. Inthe international terminal arrivals from theairport,you’llsoonhave afree themahead,orcall one andifyoucontact haveing. Allbutthesmallestestablishments theairportandwherebetween you’re stay- The hotel minibusistheeasiestwaytoget To/From theAirport GETTING AROUND along the Sogeri Rd. ( Cemetery opposite ; bus16)anddestinations Hwy. PMVsalsoleave here forBomanaWar (K40, five hours) andeastalongtheMagi (Map p77 ) andheadwestasfarKerema Rural PMVsleave fromGordonsMarket PMV Moresby. See below for details. companies renting cars and4WDsinPort Moresby (exceptKerema). There are several You can’treally drive anywhere fromPort else Car under palmtrees, get youto ( Alotau p109 ). invillagescould, after nights anddayswaiting (Map pp86–7 you,couldgotoKupiano towards MilneBay jetties northof themainwharf. Heading east the Gulf,askaroundsmallerboatsat getmight youaberth.Ifwanttogo frequently soaskingaroundatthewharves tochangepassengers. Thesituationseems companies iscurrently allowing officially facilities,butnoneofpassenger theshipping 82 Taxis waitoutsidebothterminals and,un- OTMRSY • etn rud MORESBY Around ••Getting PORT M0259 ) andlookforasmallboator Scarlet Taxi (

% 323 4266) , someof Airways Hotel & Apartments andLamana Airways Hotel&Apartments Hotel. .com.pg) Desks at the airport and Gateway andGateway .com.pg) Desksattheairport Hotel. but stop suddenly at nightfall; becarefulbut stopsuddenlyatnightfall; not PMVs runfrequently fromabout 6amto6pm and becareful about where youdisembark. quite safe provided routes yousticktocertain againstusingPMVs,butthey’rewill advise few white facesinthewindows.Mostexpats very you’llsee though motor vehicle) service, Port Moresby PMV(public hasanefficient PMV Thrifty Hertz Hire Car Friendly Avis reservation numbers: Formorelicense. information, see p317 . but shouldn’t beaproblem ifyouhave your Police check pointsare commonafter dark sure tohave amapandtake outfullinsurance. be aconfusingplacetonavigate atfirst, sobe waiver excessof K2000).Port Moresby can ance atK50perdayforacollisiondamage (plusinsur-for amanualMitsubishi Lancer at aroundK175perdayandK0.80km Kila andSabama areas, which are Kila relatively unsafe. Avoid Mile. gettingonoroffintheKila atSeven airport past thehospitaland CWAHostel),andontothe WyattHouse; (Jessie FourMile/Boroko Three Mile, Manu, 10 Route from BorokotoUPNG&theBotanical Gardens). (thisisthebustoget East BorokoandthentoThree Mile 9 Route to Seven Mile. 7 Route Boroko toGordons Market. 4 Route routes include Some useful the following: painted on thefront.Theygobothways. bers (andsometimesthedestinationitself) hours andespeciallyon Friday evening. Gordons Market. PMVsget crowdedatpeak stop isonDouglasSt,andatGordonsit’snear pass andcrowdsof people. InTown,themain p77 ) inBoroko;lookforthepedestrianover- interchange pointisManu Autoport(Map trip aroundMoresby, nearorfar. Themain out.Theflatfareto becaught isK0.70forany (domesticandinternational attheairport Offices terminals). he’ll deliveracar to you. small operation–muchcheaperthanthebigboysand offices in several top-end hotels. Prices start top-endhotels. Pricesstart inseveral offices PMVs run set routes andhavePMVs runset route num- Some rental companiesandtheircentral (Map (Map pp70-1 ; (Map (Map pp70-1 ; (Map (Map p77 ; From Gerehu, past Waigani, Gordons and Erima pastWaigani, GordonsandErima FromGerehu, and FromHanuabada,throughTown,Koki From Gerehu and Waigani to Four Mile/Boroko, andWaiganitoFourMile/Boroko, FromGerehu FromHanuabadatoTown, Badilly,Sabama, % % ( % % 324 9400;www.avis.com.pg) 325 5550) Offices at the airport, attheairport, 325 5550)Offices 302 6822;sales@leasemaster 683 6238) Utikas Pokrunsthis 683 6238)Utikas lonelyplanet.com clean, relatively withmeters newtaxis and Four Mile/Boroko and FourMile/Boroko to Hohola. Five SixMile, Mile Mile, Waigani, Gordons,Erema, Seven 15 Route Manu. and 12 Route (not allstopatthegovernmentoffices)and Morata. 11 Route lonelyplanet.com ing the road thatcurls up MtErimaat we were there theroadgangswere upgrad- have occasionalincidents–butwhen been with alocalout on theSogeri Rd–there the onlypeople around. It’sbesttotravel airport. OtherthanSundayyou’ll likely be Murray Hwyacoupleof kilometres pastthe which veers (east)offtheHubert totheright Moresby the alongorjustoff Sogeri Rd, There are someinteresting areas nearPort SOGERI ROAD capital. dusty and offers agreat weekend escapefromthe but it’sonlyabout 20km fromPortMoresby ProvinceMagi proper, inCentral Highway Island District(NCD). National Capital Province, oftal it sitswithinthe Central PortMoresbyAlthough isalsothecapi- AROUND PORT MORESBY betel nut and smoking are banned. drivers inironedshirts. Buttheclincher: often these (though don’twork),radios and 4266) eke out a living. is expensive drivers andmanytaxi barely checks are thebaneof drivers’ lives. Petrol andfrequentunlicensed roadsidepolice Mosbi’s to Waigani,K20;Towntheairport,K30. fares include:TowntoBoroko,K20; hotel ortheairport,andinBoroko. Sample you’ll usuallybeable tofindoneoutsidea Port Moresby hasnoshortage of and taxis, Taxi For more informationonPMVs,see p318 . Sabama to Bari. 17 Route past theWar Cemetery. Route16 The growingnumberof offer asuperioralternative. They’re (see (see p90 the ) isoutsidetheNCDoff From Gordons Market out to Bomana Prison, outtoBomanaPrison, FromGordonsMarket taxis are taxis inpoorrepair, someare From Gerehu to Waigani, Hohola, Three Mile toWaigani,Hohola,Three FromGerehu Mile Boroko,Waigani Hill, FromTowntoTwoMile From Gordons, Four Mile/Boroko, Three Mile, Three Mile, FromGordons,FourMile/Boroko, From tothegovernmentbuildingsin FromTokarara AROUND PORT AROUNDPORT MORESBY Road ••Sogeri Scarlet Taxis Loloata ( % 323 where 4000PNGandAustralianWWII suffered enough! Be careful outhere.suffered Be enough! There are you candrive here too…if yourpoorcarhasn’t to pushed furtherthrough road was therough long muddymarch. Later diers disembarked their trucksandbeganthe Track. Itwashere thatAustralianWWIIsol- of memorial thatmarksthestart theKokoda drive past campformore base tant than 400 soldiers. Milewhich wasanimpor- isSeventeen Below retreat brassduringWWII. forthemilitary Lookout River canyonwall.Itleadsto roadthatrunsalongthetopofBluff theLaloki towards PortMoresby. ThisistheHombrum left(west)back only)isaturn-off dry season Track road(barely navigable ina2WDthe ranger-in-charge (ifyoucan find him!). elict huts.There are pittoilets.Speaktothe The bestplaceisonthegrassoutsideder- you’re inalarge group,it’spotentially unsafe. It’spossibletocamphere,lights. butunless birdsof ashigh- paradise fishers andRaggiana here can berewarding, withanarrayof king- Moresby andthecoast.Thebird-watching long, andsomeexcellentlookoutsbacktoPort trails rangingfrom45minutes tothree hours and you’llfindsixclearlymarked walking of theSogeri Rd.It’s8kmfromtheturn-off hectares andover isthehighlight 800mhigh, K5 ifthere’s anyonestaffingthegate) NationalPark Varirata Trail Motel ( p84 ). and atrackleadingtotherundownKokoda Justbeyondisasmallstorepower station. into thegorge anduptothe Therelevel. are viewingpointslooking several and you’re soonmore than600mabove sea road windsuptheimpressive runs past the gate. PMV 16fromGordonsMarket (Map p77 ) for burial.It’saserene yetsobering place. died inPNGwere generally shipped home soldiers are buried;Americansoldiers who Cemetery is thelarge andcarefully tended tomake itafull-daytrip.Thefirstto see stop nosign tainly of trouble. Varirata NationalPark andthere wascer- Back on the Kokoda Track road you can ontheKokodaTrackroad youcan Back A few kilometres downthedreadful Kokoda afterRight thestore istheturn-off to A few kilometres pastthecemetery, the It’s only46kmtoSogeri butthere isenough that rises 1300m and was used asa 1300mandwasused thatrises

Mp pp70-1; (Map McDonald’s Corner

( % % 328 1536; 325 0195/9340;admission where there’s asmall Owers’ Corner which, at1000 Laloki River gorge River Laloki Rouna Falls Hombrum Bluff h Bomana War 8am-4pm) , and , and and 83 ,

PORT MORESBY MORESBY PORT PORT MORESBY the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake Motel. Thebestplacetostop for lunch. to10pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, kitchens) are fairvalue. four(somewith Theroomsthatsleep to stay. Mile,istheonlyworthwhileplace Seventeen r K165; desperate. you’re don’t bookahead,there’ll benofood.Onlyif Cheap, dirtyandalmostderelict, andifyou Kokoda TrailMotel Sleeping &Eating spot. picnic per vehicleK7) diabolical dirtroadthe for, butacoupleof kilometres alonganother you’ll bestuckgood and proper. no roadsignssoaskvillagers, andifitrains 84 © LonelyPlanetPublications Phoenix Bar Phoenix Bluff InnMotel There’s nothingworthstoppinginSogeri RUDPR MRSY • iiaoHgwy AROUND PORT Highway MORESBY ••Hiritano a ) Thissprawlingmotel, bytheriver at make swimmingand apleasant

(meals K18-24;

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( % 328 1223; fax 328 1311; Sogeri Rd; 328 1223;fax1311;Sogeri Attached to the Bluff Inn Attached totheBluff 325 4403;fax3322;rK65) Crystal Rapids h 10am-2pm &5-10pm (admission

Gl Province. Gulf reachingeventually Kerema (see p202 ) in then onwardpassingYuleIsland(see p89 ), dancing costumesandfacepainting, Mekeo peopleknownfortheircolourful of PortMoresby, traditionallandsof the swim. Itthencomesbacktothecoastwest It’sanicespottogofor from thecapital. Province, locatedin Central about 40km Port Moresby toBrownRiver andgoes The HwyleavesHiritano northwardfrom HIRITANO HIGHWAY only. 4WDs of for theKokodaTrack–is suitable from Sogeri toOwers’ Corner–thestart Varirata NationalPark, thesection however faced toSogeri andallthewaydownto p77 ; K3)semi-regularly. Theroadissur- PMVs leave fromGordonsMarket (Map Getting There&Away Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels