Camel Fairs in India: A Photo Essay

Harvey Follender

estern India has four traditional camel trad­ drawn wagons with wheels that will get them Wing markets that operate over a period of through the sand. By some estimates, the annual several weeks during the winter. The biggest and camel fair attracts approximately 200,000 most notable one is at Pushkar in . visitors. And while camels certainly steal the show Pushkar [Fig. 1] is located on the edge of the Thar at Pushkar, they are not the only reason so many Desert (also known as the Great Indian Desert), people flock to the fair every year. Adorned with which serves as a natu­ many temples and ral geographic barrier (steps for pilgrims to between India and Pak­ use for bathing along istan. Being situated on holy rivers and ), the edge of a desert and Pushkar is a pilgrimage not far from the impor­ site for both tant north­south trans­ and . As a sacred portation artery from Hindu city, the con­ the Arabian Sea to Cen­ sumption of alcohol, tral Asia, Pushkar con­ meat, fowl, and eggs is stitutes an obvious place prohibited in Pushkar to buy and sell camels and such items are not during the days of the found or served at the fair. camel fair. Some of the older lodg­ Over the years, the ings were formerly cara­ gathering of pilgrims, vanserai and retain Fig. 1. Map of northwestern India showing Pushkar on the tribespeople, and edge of the Thar Desert. entrances with doors tall camels at Pushkar on enough to allow fully loaded camels to enter. the eve of the full moon (Purnima) of the winter When camels were not expected, the large doors month of (i.e., November or December) has could be kept closed and smaller doors opened to fostered the addition of other markets and amuse­ greet guests on foot. Cars are not welcome during ments. These include farm implements and tools, the days of the fair and people ride on camel­ crafts, an array of cuisines, livestock and agricul­

Fig. 2. Camel herd at Bateshwar.

Copyright © 2019 Harvey Follender The Silk Road 17 (2019): 90–95 90 Copyright © 2019 The Silk Road House tural markets, song and dance competitions, and an overnight journey of 14 hours, with requisite various carnival attractions such as Ferris wheels, transfers en route. Now one can hire a car to drive rides, acrobats, snake charmers, magicians, con­ to Pushkar straight from the Delhi airport in just tests (e.g., tug­of­war, longest moustache, etc.), six and a half hours. Another change in recent hot air balloon rides, and cotton candy. As a result, years is the large number of Israeli tourists who the Pushkar camel fair is a study in the sheer diver­ come to the fair—so many, in fact, that there are sity of the cultures and livelihoods of South Asia, Hebrew signs in the marketplace and several which are given vivid restaurants specializ­ expression in the ing in vegan and veg­ burst of colors, cos­ etarian Israeli food. tumes, and aromas Other camel markets any visitor is likely to in Rajasthan and the encounter. Perhaps neighboring state of most memorably, the Uttar Pradesh also fair is brought to an convene in the days end with an aarti fire before Kartik Purn­ ceremony at the , ima. One is in Ko­ accompanied by a layat Village near final bathing ritual , a second is and a morning pa­ at Bateshwar near rade of performers, Agra, and a third camel riders, deco­ (Chandrabhaga Fair) rated camels, and is at Jhalrapatan (just gypsy dancers. south of Kota, Ra­ I first visited the jasthan). All four of Fig. 3. Arriving at the Pushkar camel fair. Pushkar camel fair in these camel fairs fea­ 1974 while my family ture similar activities and I lived in New at the same time, but Delhi. With all the for fewer days. They camels and tribes­ are located near sa­ people, it was like cred rivers or lakes, nothing I had seen and also include var­ before and nothing I ious markets, tem­ could have imagined. porary shops, and It was so fascinating carnival attractions that I visited again synchronized with the following year. the arrival of pil­ Thirty seven years grims. later, I returned to By far the largest and the site that had once most well attended so entranced me. camel fair, however, Since 2012, I have at­ is at Pushkar. The ac­ tended the Pushkar Fig. 4. A camel taxi caravan to the Pushkar camel fair. companying images camel fair every year are a small selection and may continue doing so as long as I am able. of the many hundreds of photographs I have taken Both India and the fair have changed considerably at camel fairs in India over the years, provided in in the 45 years since I first lived in New Delhi. Back hopes of introducing this fascinating spectacle to a in 1974, travel to Pushkar from the capital was by wider audience. train or bus over bad roads. Taking the train meant

91 Fig. 5. The camel taxi stand at Pushkar. Fig. 6. Camel herders camp at Bateshwar.

Fig. 7. Shaved decorations on a camel at Bateshwar.

Fig. 8. Camel traffic jam at a Pushkar crossroads. Fig. 9. Camel market at Bateshwar. 92 Fig. 10. Dancing Kalbelia gypsy girls, who live on the outskirts of Pushkar.

Fig. 11. Kalbelia snake charmer at the .

Fig. 12. Poor women receiving food at a Pushkar temple.

Fig. 14. Young female spectator at the Pushkar camel fair. Fig. 13. Children, dressed up as mythological figures, in search of offerings.

93 Fig. 15. Rajasthani camel herder at Pushkar. Fig. 16. Rajasthani parade at the Pushkar camel fair.

Fig. 17. Rajasthani men at the Pushkar camel fair.

Fig. 18. Rajasthani camel corps.

Fig. 19. Rajasthani camel herders at Pushkar. Fig. 20. Meeting of Rajasthani tribesmen at Pushkar. 94 Fig. 21. Pilgrims at a temple in Bateshwar. Fig. 22. Hindu pilgrims at Pushkar Lake.

Fig. 23. Pilgrims praying at Pushkar Lake during full moon. Fig. 24. Camel herders encamped at Bateshwar.

Fig. 25. The author in front of a decorated camel taxi at Pushkar.

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