Parallel-Text Comparison of Wordsworth’s Five Editions of the Guide to the Lakes Compiled by Nicholas Mason

Overview As detailed in the introduction to this edition, Wordsworth released five distinct versions of the Guide between 1810 and 1835. His original text of 1810, a 27,000-word supplement to Joseph Wilkinson’s Selected Views, was trimmed to 20,000 words for the River Duddon collection of 1820. From that point he steadily expanded the text, to 30,000 words in 1822, 35,000 in 1823, and 38,000 in 1835. While all five versions include significant additions and emendations, the most radical revisions came in the 2nd (1820) and 5th (1835) editions. The 1820 edition reorganizes some sections, adds several paragraphs, and, most drastically, cuts 19 paragraphs (#65-83 below) from the 1810 original. For its part, the 1835 edition not only includes significant additions, but it also features a major reordering of the text, with “Directions and Information for Tourists” (paragraphs #129-55 in the chart that follows) moving from the book’s ending to its beginning.

Capitalizing on some of the distinctive features of a digital edition—particularly the ability to perform instantaneous searches across five editions and a wide-screen, color-coded layout that would be difficult to replicate in codex form—we have compiled the following parallel- text comparison of Wordsworth’s five versions of the Guide. This chart allows the casual reader to quickly assess how extensively any given section of the Guide morphed over time. For the scholar, it aims to significantly expedite the line-by-line analysis of Wordsworth’s revisions and provide new insights into his evolving views on the shifting topography and politics of the Lake District between 1810 and 1835.

Notes on Formatting  Changes from the immediately preceding edition are marked as follows: new words and phrases appear in bold; deletions are struck through; sentences that have been reworded without any key additions or deletions appear in standard script.  Explanations of significant revisions are highlighted in yellow.  Yellow arrows ↓ indicate where paragraphs have been lengthened in subsequent editions and are used to preserve line-level parallelism.  Wordsworth’s footnotes appear in red script.  Table cells shaded entirely in grey indicate where an entire paragraph did not appear in a particular edition.  These charts do not note changes in punctuation (, to ;), capitalization (Mountains  mountains), spelling (vallies  valleys), and simple usage (which  that).

¶ Line 1810 (Wilkinson) (1st) 1820 (Duddon) (2nd) 1822 (3rd) 1823 (4th) 1835 (5th) TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION SECTION FIRST. VIEW OF THE [See note above on the reordering of OF THE COUNTRY OF THE LAKES COUNTRY AS FORMED BY sections in this edition. The 5th ed. NATURE. began with “Directions and Information for Tourists” (paras. 129-55 below.] 1 1 At Lucerne in Switzerland there existed Switzerland, is 2 some years ago, and perhaps does still shewn a model of the Alpine 3 exist, a model of a large portion of the a model of a large portion of the Alpine 4 Alpine country encompassing the lake of country which encompasses the lake 5 the four Cantons. The spectator ascended The spectator ascends 6 a little platform and saw Mountains, a little platform and sees mountains 7 Lakes, Glaciers, Rivers, Woods, 8 Waterfalls, and Vallies, with their 9 Cottages and every other object which object contained in 10 they contained, lying at his feet; all things them, lying 11 being represented in their exact represented in their exact 12 proportions and appropriate colours. It proportions and appropriate colours. 13 may be easily conceived that this 14 exhibition afforded an exquisite delight to exhibition affords an exquisite 15 the imagination, which was tempted to which was thus tempted to imagination, which was thus tempted 16 wander from valley to valley, from wander from valley to valley at will from tempting it to wander 17 mountain to mountain, at will through mountain 18 the deepest recesses of the Alps. But it But it 19 supplied also a more solid and substantial a more solid and substantial supplies a more substantial 20 pleasure; for the sublime and beautiful pleasure; 21 region, with all its hidden treasures and 22 their relations and bearings to each other, their bearings and relations 23 was thereby comprehended and is thereby 24 understood at once. 2 1 Something of this kind (as far as can be far as it can be kind, without touching 2 performed by words, which must needs upon minute details and individualities 3 be most inadequately) will be attempted be most inadequately) will here be which would only confuse and 4 in the following introductory pages, with attempted in the following introductory embarrass, will here be attempted 5 reference to the country which has pages, with reference to the country 6 furnished the subjects of the Drawings which has furnished the subjects of the 7 now offered to the public, adding to a Drawings now offered to the public, 8 verbal representation of its permanent adding to a verbal representation of its 9 features such appearances as are transitory permanent features such appearances as 10 from their dependence upon accidents of are transitory from their dependence 11 season and weather. upon accidents of season and weather 12 ↓ respect to the Lakes in the North of 13 England, and the values and 14 mountains enclosing and surrounding 15 This, if tolerably executed, will in some them. The delineation if tolerably 16 instances communicate to the traveller, 17 who has already seen the objects, new 18 information; and will assist him to give to will assist him in giving to 19 his recollections a more orderly 20 arrangement than his own opportunities 21 of observing may have permitted him to him to make do 22 do; while it will be still more useful to the 23 future traveller by directing his attention 24 at once to distinctions in things which, 25 without such previous aid, a length of 26 time only could enable him to discover. 27 And, as must be obvious, this general And, as must be obvious, this general 28 introduction will combine with the introduction will combine with the 29 Etchings certain notices of things which, Etchings certain notices of things which, 30 though they may not lie within the though they may not lie within the 31 province of the pencil, cannot but tend to province of the pencil, cannot but tend to 32 render its productions more interesting; render its productions more interesting; 33 especially in a case like the present, where especially in a case like the present, where 34 a work wishes to recommend itself by a a work wishes to recommend itself by a 35 twofold claim, viz. by furnishing pleasing twofold claim, viz. by furnishing pleasing 36 Sketches, and at the same time accurate Sketches, and at the same time accurate 37 Portraits of those scenes from which they Portraits of those scenes from which they 38 are taken. are taken. It is hoped, also, that this 39 Essay may become generally serviceable 40 by leading to habits of more exact and 41 considerate observation than, as far as 42 the writer knows, have hither to been 43 applied to local scenery. 3 1 To begin then with the main the main outlines 2 demarkation of the Country, I know not demarkation of the country. I know not 3 how I can give the reader a more distinct how to I can give 4 image of this than by requesting him to image of these more readily than by 5 place himself in imagination upon some himself with me in imagination 6 given point; let it be the top of either of 7 the mountains of Great Gavel or mountains of, Great 8 Scawfell; or rather let him suppose his let us him suppose our his station 9 station to be a cloud hanging midway between these the 10 between the two mountains, at not more two 11 than half a mile’s distance from the 12 summit of each, and but a few yards 13 above their highest elevation, he will then not many but a few yards 14 see stretched at his feet a number of we shall he will then see stretched at 15 Vallies, not fewer than nine, diverging our his feet a number eight nine, diverging 16 from the point, on which he is supposed 17 to stand, like spokes from the nave of a we are he is supposed 18 wheel. First he will note, lying to the First, we he will note 19 south east, the Vale of Langdale which Langdale* [Note added] 20 will conduct his eye to the long Lake of conduct the his eye 21 Winandermere stretching, as appears, 22 nearly to the sea, or rather to the sands of stretched, as appears, nearly to the sea 23 the vast Bay of Morecamb, which here 24 serves for the rim of this imaginary wheel, Morcamb, serving here for the rim of 25 trace it in a direction from the south east this imaginary wheel;—let us trace 26 towards the south, and he will next fix his 27 eyes upon the Vale of Coniston running we shall he will next fix our his eyes 28 up likewise from the sea, but not (as all 29 the other vallies do) to the station which I 30 have considered as the nave of the wheel; to the station which I 31 and therefore it may not be inaptly have considered as the nave 32 represented as a broken spoke sticking in 33 the rim. Looking forth again, with an 34 inclination towards the west, immediately west, we see immediately 35 at our feet lies the Vale of Duddon, in at our feet lies the vale 36 which is no Lake but a copious river 37 winding among fields, rocks, and copious stream river 38 mountains, and terminating its course in 39 the Sands of Duddon. The fourth valley valley 40 which we shall next observe, viz. that of next to be observed, viz. 41 Eskdale, is of the same general character the Esk Eskdale, is of the same 42 as the last, yet beautifully discriminated 43 from it by features which, in the more by peculiar features which, in the more by peculiar features. Its stream passes 44 minute details attached to the several minute details attached to the several under the woody steep upon which 45 parts of this work, will hereafter be parts of this work, will hereafter be stands Muncaster Castle, the ancient 46 described. described. seat of the Penningtons, and after 47 ↓ forming a short and narrow æstuary 48 enters the sea below the little town of the small little town 49 Next, almost due west, look Ravenglass. Next, almost due west, look 50 down upon and into the deep Valley of down upon and into, and along the deep 51 Wastdale with its little chapel and half a 52 dozen neat scattered dwellings, a plain of dwellings scattered upon a plain 53 meadow and corn ground intersected 54 with stone walls apparently innumerable, 55 like a large piece of lawless patch-work, or 56 an array of mathematical figures, such as 57 in the ancient schools of geometry might 58 have been sportively and fantastically 59 traced out upon sand. Beyond this little 60 fertile plain lies, within its bed of steep within a its bed 61 mountains, the long, narrow, stern, and 62 desolate Lake of Wastdale; and beyond 63 this a dusky tract of level ground 64 conducts the eye to the Irish Sea. 65 ↓ The Vale of 66 Buttermere, with the lake and village 67 of that name, and Crummock-water, 68 beyond, next present themselves. We 69 will follow the main stream, the 70 Cocker, through the fertile and 71 The several Vales of Ennerdale and beautiful vale of Lorton, till it is lost in 72 Buttermere, with their Lakes, next the Derwent, below the noble ruins of 73 present themselves; and lastly the Vale of Cockermouth. Lastly, Borrowdale, of 74 Borrodale, of which that of Keswick is which the vale of Keswick is only 75 only a continuation, stretching due north, 76 brings us to a point nearly opposite to the 77 Vale of Winandermere with which we 78 began. From this it will appear that the 79 image of a wheel, which I have made use of a wheel, which I have made use of, 80 of, and which is thus far exact, is not and which is thus far exact, is little not 81 much more than half complete; but the much more than one half 82 deficiency on the eastern side may be 83 supplied by the vales of Wytheburn, 84 Ulswater, Hawswater, and the Vale of 85 Grasmere and Rydale; none of these 86 however run up to the central point 87 between Great Gavel and Scawfell. From 88 this, hitherto our central point, take a 89 flight of not more than three or four than four or five three or four 90 miles eastward to the ridge of Helvellyn miles 91 and you will look down upon Wytheburn 92 and St. John’s Vale, which are a branch of 93 the Vale of Keswick, upon Ulswater 94 stretching due east; and not far beyond to 95 the south east, (though from this point 96 not visible) lie the Vale and Lake of 97 Hawswater; and lastly the winding Vale the winding Vale 98 of Grasmere, Rydale, and Ambleside, 99 brings you back to Winandermere, thus 100 completing, though on the eastern side in 101 an irregular manner, the representative a somewhat irregular 102 figure of the wheel. 103 104 [New footnote] *Anciently spelt 105 Langden, and so called by the old 106 inhabitants to this day—dean, from 107 which the latter part of the word is 108 derived, being in many parts of 109 England a name for a valley. 4A- 1 Such, concisely given, is the general [Formatted as two paras. in the 1st ed., 4B 2 topographical view of the country of the 4A/4B were merged in subsequent eds.] 3 Lakes in the North of England. But it North of England; . But it 4 must be observed that the visits of must be observed that the visits of 5 travellers are for the most part confined travellers are for the most part confined 6 to the Vales of Coniston, Winandermere to the Vales of Coniston, Winandermere 7 with the intermediate country between with the intermediate country between 8 Ambleside and Keswick, the Vale of Ambleside and Keswick, the Vale of 9 Keswick itself, Buttermere, and Ulswater, Keswick itself, Buttermere, and Ulswater, 10 which are the most easy of access, and which are the most easy of access, and 11 indeed from their several characters most indeed from their several characters most 12 likely to repay general curiosity; though likely to repay general curiosity; though 13 each of the other more retired vales, as each of the other more retired vales, as 14 will appear when we enter into detail in will appear when we enter into detail in 15 the several numbers of this publication, the several numbers of this publication, 16 has its own appropriate beauties—all has its own appropriate beauties—all 17 exquisite in their kind. exquisite in their kind. 18 19 [¶5] This Introduction will be confined [¶] This Introduction will be confined as 20 as much as possible to general remarks. much as possible to general remarks. And 21 And first, returning to the illustrative first, returning to the illustrative figure 22 figure which has been employed, it may which has been employed ; and it may 23 be observed that from the circumference 24 to the centre, that is from the sea or plain 25 country, to the mountains of Great Gavel the mountain stations specified 26 and Scawfell, there is in the several ridges mountains of Great Gavel and Scawfell 27 that enclose these vales, and divide them 28 from each other, I mean in the forms and 29 surfaces, first of the swelling grounds, 30 next of the hills and rocks, and lastly of 31 the mountains, an ascent by almost ascent of by almost 32 regular gradation from elegance and 33 richness to the highest point of grandeur. of grandeur and sublimity. to the their highest point of grandeur 34 It follows therefore from this, first, that 35 these rocks, hills, and mountains, must 36 present themselves to the view in stages to the view 37 rising above each other, the mountains 38 clustering together towards the central 39 point; and, next, that an observer familiar 40 with the several vales, must, from their 41 various position in relation to the sun, 42 have had before his eyes every possible 43 embellishment of beauty, dignity, and 44 splendour, which light and shadow can 45 bestow upon objects so diversified. For 46 example, in the Vale of Winandermere, if 47 the spectator looks for gentle and lovely 48 scenes, his eye is turned towards the 49 south; if for the grand, towards the north; 50 in the Vale of Keswick, which (as hath 51 been said) lies almost due north of this, it 52 is directly the reverse. Hence, when the 53 sun is setting in summer far to the north 54 west, it is seen by the spectator from the 55 shores or breast of Winandermere resting 56 among the summits of the loftiest 57 mountains, some of which will perhaps 58 be half or wholly hidden by clouds, or by wholly hid hidden by clouds 59 the blaze of light which the orb diffuses 60 around it; and the surface of the lake will 61 reflect before the eye correspondent 62 colours through every variety of beauty, 63 and through all degrees of splendour. In 64 the Vale of Keswick, at the same period, 65 the sun sets over the humbler regions of 66 the landscape, and showers down upon 67 them the radiance which at once veils and 68 glorifies, sending forth, meanwhile, broad 69 streams of rosy, crimson, purple, or 70 golden, light towards the grand 71 mountains in the south and south east, 72 which, thus illuminated, with all their 73 projections and cavities, and with an 74 intermixture of solemn shadows, are seen 75 distinctly through a cool and clear 76 atmosphere. Of course there is as marked 77 a difference between the noontide 78 appearance of these two opposite vales. 79 The bedimming haze that overspreads the 80 south, and the clear atmosphere and 81 determined shadows of the clouds in the 82 north, at the same time of the day, are 83 each seen, in these several vales, with a 84 contrast as striking. The reader perceiving The reader will easily perceive will easily conceive perceive 85 in what degree the intermediate vales will perceiving in what 86 partake of the same variety. partake of a kindred the same variety 5 1 I do not indeed know any tract of 2 country in which, within so narrow a 3 compass, may be found an equal variety 4 in the influences of light and shadow 5 upon the grand or gentle features of upon the sublime or beautiful grand or 6 landscape; and it is owing to the gentle features 7 combined circumstances to which I have to which I have directed 8 directed the reader’s attention. From a the reader’s attention has been directed. 9 point between the mountains of Great between the mountains of Great Gavel 10 Gavel and Scawfell, a shepherd would not 11 require more than an hour to descend 12 into any one of eight of the principal 13 vales by which he would be surrounded; 14 and all the others lie (with the exception 15 of Hawswater) but at a small distance. at but a small 16 Yet, though thus clustered together, every Yet, though thus clustered 17 valley has its distinct and separate 18 character; in some instances as if they had 19 been formed in studied contrast to each 20 other, and in others with the united 21 pleasing differences and resemblances of a 22 sisterly rivalship. This concentration of 23 interest gives to the country a decided 24 superiority over the most attractive 25 districts of Scotland and Wales, especially 26 for the pedestrian traveller. In Scotland 27 and Wales are found undoubtedly 28 individual scenes which in their several 29 kinds cannot be surpassed. But in cannot be excelled surpassed. 30 Scotland particularly what desolate and what desolate 31 unimpressive tracts of country almost and unimpressive long tracts of desolate 32 perpetually intervene! so that the country almost perpetually intervene! 33 traveller, when he reaches a spot 34 deservedly of great celebrity, is often at a celebrity, would find it difficult is often 35 loss to determine how much of his at a loss to determine 36 pleasure is owing to excellence inherent 37 in the landscape itself, and how much to 38 an instantaneous recovery from an 39 oppression left upon his spirits by the 40 barrenness and desolation through which 41 he has passed. 6 1 ↓ But, to proceed with our survey;—and 2 first of the Mountains. For the forms of 3 For the forms of these mountains I refer these mountains I refer to the Etchings to 4 to the Etchings to which these pages are which these pages are an Introduction, 5 an Introduction, and from which it will and from which it will appear that their 6 appear that their outlines are endlessly outlines are Their forms are endlessly 7 diversified, sweeping easily or boldly in 8 simple majesty, abrupt and precipitous, 9 or soft and elegant. In magnitude and 10 grandeur these mountains are grandeur they these mountains are 11 individually inferior to the most 12 celebrated of those in some other parts of 13 this island; but in the combinations 14 which they make, towering above each 15 other, or lifting themselves in ridges like 16 the waves of a tumultuous sea, and in the 17 beauty and variety of their surfaces and 18 their colours, they are surpassed by none. their colours 7 1 The general surface of the mountains is 2 turf made rich and green by the moisture turf, rendered made rich 3 of the climate. Sometimes the turf, as in 4 the neighbourhood of Newlands, in Newlands, in 5 particular, is little broken, the whole particular, is little broken 6 covering being soft and downy pasturage. 7 In other places rocks predominate; the 8 soil is laid bare by torrents and burstings 9 of water from the sides of the mountains 10 in heavy rains; and occasionally their and not unfrequently occasionally their 11 perpendicular sides are seamed by ravines 12 formed also by rains and torrents, which, 13 meeting in angular points, entrench and 14 scar over the surface with numerous scar over the surface 15 figures like the letters W and Y. 8 1 ↓ In the ridge that divides Eskdale from 2 Wasdale, granite is found; but the 3 The Mountains are composed of the Mountains are for the most part 4 stone by mineralogists termed schist, composed 5 which, as you approach the plain country, 6 gives way to limestone; but, schist being gives place way to limestone and free- 7 the substance of the mountains, the stone; but schist 8 predominant colour of their rocky parts is 9 bluish or of hoary grey—the general tint or of hoary grey 10 of the lichens with which the bare stone is 11 encrusted. With this blue and grey colour blue or and 12 is frequently intermixed a red tinge 13 proceeding from the iron with which the the iron that 14 stone is interveined and the soil in many interveins the stone, and impregnates 15 places impregnated. The iron is the the soil 16 principle of decomposition in these rocks; 17 and hence, when they become pulverized, 18 the elementary particles crumbling down 19 overspread in many places the steep and 20 almost precipitous sides of the mountains 21 with an intermixture of colours like the 22 compound hues of a dove’s neck. When, 23 in the heat of advancing summer, the 24 freshness of the green tint of the herbage fresh freshness of the green tint 25 has somewhat faded, it is again revived by 26 the appearance of the fern profusely 27 spread every where; and upon this plant spread over the same ground every 28 more than upon any thing else do the where; and, upon 29 changes, which the seasons make in the 30 colouring of the mountains depend. By depend. About By 31 the first week in October, the rich green 32 which was preserved through the whole which prevailed was preserved through 33 summer by the herbage and by this plant, the whole summer by the herbage and by 34 has usually passed away; its brilliant and this plant, is has usually passed away. 35 various colours of light yellow, orange, The its brilliant and various colours of 36 and brown, are then in harmony with the light yellow, orange, and brown the fern 37 autumnal woods; bright yellow or lemon are then 38 colour, at the base of the mountains, 39 melting gradually through orange to a 40 dark russet brown towards the summits, 41 where the plant being more exposed to 42 the weather, is in a more advanced state 43 of decay. Neither heath nor furze are 44 generally found upon the sides of these 45 mountains, though in some places they though in many some places they they are adorned by the rich hues of 46 are richly adorned by them. We may add, are richly adorned by the rich hues of those plants, so beautiful when in 47 that the mountains are of height those plants them. flower. We 48 sufficient to have the surface towards the 49 summits softened by distance, and to 50 imbibe the finest aerial hues. In common 51 also with other mountains, their apparent 52 forms and colours are perpetually 53 changed by the clouds and vapours which 54 float round them: the effect indeed of 55 mist and haze, in a country of this mist or and haze 56 character, is like that of magic: I have 57 seen six or seven ridges rising above each 58 other, all created in a moment by the 59 vapours upon the side of a mountain, 60 which, in its ordinary appearance, shewed 61 not a projecting point to furnish even a 62 hint for such an operation. 9 1 I will take this opportunity of observing 2 that they, who have studied the 3 appearances of nature, feel that the 4 superiority, in point of visual interest, of 5 mountainous over other countries—is 6 more strikingly displayed in winter than 7 in summer. This, as must be obvious, is 8 partly owing to the forms of the 9 mountains, which of course are not 10 affected by the seasons; but also, in no 11 small degree, to the greater variety which 12 exists in their winter than their summer 13 colouring. This variety is such and so 14 harmoniously preserved, that it leaves 15 little cause of regret when the splendour 16 of autumn is passed away. The coppice The oak-coppices 17 woods, upon the sides of the mountains, coppice woods, upon 18 retain russet leaves; the birch stands 19 conspicuous with its silver stem and puce- 20 coloured twigs; the hollies have come the hollies, with green 21 forth to view, with green leaves and leaves and scarlet berries, have come forth 22 scarlet berries, from among the deciduous to view from among 23 trees whose summer foliage had 24 concealed them; the ivy is now apparent ivy is now plentifully apparent 25 upon the stems and boughs of the trees, and upon among the 26 and among the woody rocks. In place of steep woody rocks. In place of the deep 27 the uniform summer green of the herbage uniform summer green 28 and fern, many rich colours play into 29 each other over the surface of the 30 mountains; turf (whose tints are (the whose tints of which are 31 interchangeably tawny-green, olive, and 32 brown), beds of withered fern, and grey 33 rocks, being harmoniously blended 34 together. The mosses and lichens are 35 never so fresh and flourishing as in 36 winter, if it be not a season of frost; and 37 their minute beauties prodigally adorn 38 the foreground. Wherever we turn, we 39 find these productions of nature, to 40 which winter is rather favourable than 41 unkindly, scattered over the walls, banks 42 of earth, rocks, and stones, and upon the 43 trunks of trees, with the intermixture of 44 several species of small fern, now green 45 and fresh; and to the observing passenger 46 their forms and colours are a source of 47 inexhaustible admiration. Add to this the 48 hoar frost and snow with all the varieties varieties which they 49 which they create, and which volumes 50 would not be sufficient to describe. I will 51 content myself with one instance of the 52 colouring produced by snow, which may 53 not be uninteresting to Painters. It is 54 extracted from the memorandum book of 55 a friend, and for its accuracy I can speak, speak, having been as I 56 as I myself was an eyewitness of the myself was an eyewitness 57 appearance. “I observed,” says he, “the 58 beautiful effect of the drifted snow upon 59 the mountains, and the perfect tone of 60 colour. From the top of the mountains 61 downward a rich olive was produced by 62 the powdery snow and the grass, which 63 olive was warmed with a little brown, and 64 in this way harmoniously combined, by 65 insensible gradations, with the white. The 66 drifting took away all the monotony of away all the monotony 67 snow; and the whole vale of Grasmere, 68 seen from the terrace walk in Easedale, 69 was as varied, perhaps more so, than even 70 in the pomp of autumn. In the distance 71 was Loughrigg Fell, the basin wall of the 72 lake: this, from the summit downward, 73 was a rich orange-olive; then the lake a lake of a 74 bright olive-green, nearly the same tint as 75 the snow-powdered mountain tops and 76 high slopes in Easedale; and lastly the 77 church with its firs, forming the centre of 78 the view. The firs looked magnificent, The firs looked magnificent, and 79 and carried the eye back to some firs in carried the eye back to some firs in 80 Brother’s Wood on the left side of the Brother’s Wood on the left side of the 81 lake (we looking towards Loughrigg). lake (we looking towards Loughrigg). 82 Next to the church with its firs came nine the church with its firs came 83 distinguishable hills, six of them with 84 woody sides turned towards us, all of 85 them oak-copses with their bright red 86 leaves and snow-powdered twigs; these these 87 hills all distinguishable indeed from the hills all distinguishable indeed from the 88 summit downward, but none seen all the summit downward, but none seen all the 89 way down, so as to give the strongest way down, so as to give the strongest 90 sense of number with unity; and these sense of number with unity; 91 hills so variously situated to each other so variously situated in relation to 92 and to the view in general, so variously 93 powdered, some only enough to give the 94 herbage a rich brown tint, one intensely 95 white and lighting up all the others, and others, were and yet 96 yet so placed as in the most inobtrusive 97 manner to harmonize by contrast with a 98 perfect naked, snowless bleak summit in 99 the far distance in the left—the variety of distance. in the left—the variety of 100 site, of colour, of woodiness, of the site, of colour, of woodiness, of the 101 situation of the woods, &c. &c. made it situation of the woods, &c. &c. made it 102 not merely number with unity, but not merely number with unity, but 103 intricacy combined that activity of intricacy combined that activity of 104 feeling, which intricacy awakens, with the feeling, which intricacy awakens, with the 105 complacency and repose of perfect complacency and repose of perfect 106 unity.” unity.” 10 1 Having spoken of the forms, surface, and 2 colour of the mountains, let us descend 3 into the VALLIES. Though these have 4 been represented under the general image 5 of the spokes of a wheel, they are for the 6 most part winding; the windings of many 7 being abrupt and intricate. And it may be 8 observed that in one circumstance, the 9 general shape of them all has been 10 determined by that primitive 11 conformation through which so many 12 became receptacles of lakes. For they are 13 not formed, as are most of the celebrated 14 Welsh Vallies, by an approximation of 15 the sloping bases of the opposite 16 mountains towards each other, leaving 17 little more between than a channel for the 18 passage of a hasty river; but the bottom of 19 these vallies is, for the most part, a vallies is mostly for the most part a 20 spacious and gently declining area 21 apparently level as the floor of a temple, 22 or the surface of a lake, and beautifully and beautifully broken 23 broken in many cases by rocks and hills 24 which rise up like islands from the plain. 25 As the vallies make many windings, these In such of the valleys as As the vallies 26 level areas open upon the traveller in make 27 succession, divided from each other 28 sometimes by a mutual approximation of 29 the hills leaving only a passage for a river; leaving only a passage 30 sometimes by correspondent windings 31 without such approximation; and 32 sometimes by a bold advance of one 33 mountain towards that which is opposite which is opposite 34 to it. It may here be observed, with to it. 35 propriety, that the several rocks and hills, 36 which I have described as rising up like which I have been described 37 islands from the level area of the vale, 38 have regulated the choice of the 39 inhabitants in the situation of their 40 dwellings. Where none of these are found 41 and the inclination of the ground is not 42 sufficiently rapid easily to carry off the 43 waters (as in the higher part of Langdale 44 for instance), the houses are not sprinkled 45 over the middle part of the vales but middle part of the vales 46 confined to their sides, being placed 47 merely so far up the mountain as to 48 protect them from the floods. But, where be protected protect them from 49 these rocks and hills have been scattered 50 over the plain of the vale (as in Grasmere, 51 Seathwaite, Eskdale, &c.) the beauty Donnerdale, Seathwaite, Eskdale 52 which they give to the scene is much 53 heightened by a single cottage or clustre 54 of cottages which will be almost always 55 found under them or upon their sides; 56 dryness and shelter having tempted the 57 Dalesmen to fix their habitations there. 11 1 I shall now say a few words concerning I shall now say a few words concerning 2 the LAKES of this country. The form of speak of the Lakes 3 the lake is most perfect when, like 4 Derwent-water and some of the smaller 5 lakes, it least resembles that of a river. I 6 mean, when being looked at from any 7 given point where the whole may be seen 8 at once, the width of it bears such 9 proportion to the length that, however 10 the outline may be diversified by 11 far-shooting bays, it never assumes the far-receding shooting bays 12 shape of a river, and is contemplated with 13 that placid and quiet feeling which 14 belongs peculiarly to the lake as a body of 15 still water under the influence of no 16 current, reflecting therefore the clouds, 17 the light, and all the imagery of the sky 18 and surrounding hills, expressing and expressing also and 19 making visible the changes of the 20 atmosphere, and motion of the lightest 21 breeze, and subject to agitation only from 22 the winds— 23 24 “the visible scene 25 Would enter unawares into his mind 26 With all its solemn imagery, its rocks, 27 Its wood, and that uncertain heaven receiv’d 28 Into the bosom of the steady lake.” 12 1 It must be noticed as a favourable 2 characteristic of the lakes of this country 3 that though several of the largest, such as 4 Winandermere, Ulswater, Hawswater, 5 &c. do, when the whole length of them is &c. do 6 commanded from an elevated point, lose 7 somewhat of the peculiar form of the lake 8 and assume the resemblance of a 9 magnificent river; yet, as their shape is 10 winding (particularly that of Ulswater 11 and Haws-water), when the view of the 12 whole is obstructed by those barriers 13 which determine the windings, and the 14 spectator is confined to one reach, the 15 appropriate feeling is revived; and one 16 lake may thus in succession present the present to the eye the 17 essential characteristic of many. Hence I Hence I am led to 18 am led to remark that, while the forms of remark that, while But, though the 19 the large lakes have this advantage, it is a forms 20 circumstance still more favourable to the it is nevertheless a is nevertheless a 21 beauty of the country that the largest of circumstance still more favourable circumstance more favourable 22 them are small; and that the same valley are comparatively small 23 generally furnishes a succession of lakes, 24 instead of being filled by one. The vallies filled with by one. 25 in North Wales, as hath been observed, 26 are not formed for the reception of lakes; 27 those of Switzerland, Scotland, and this 28 part of the North England, are so formed; north of England 29 but in Switzerland and Scotland the 30 proportion of diffused water is often too 31 great, as at the lake of Geneva for 32 instance, and most of the Scotch lakes. and in most 33 No doubt it sounds magnificent and 34 flatters the imagination to hear at a 35 distance of such expanses of water so of such expanses 36 many leagues in length and miles in 37 width; and such ample room may be 38 delightful to the fresh water sailor 39 scudding with a lively breeze amid the 40 rapidly shifting scenery. But who ever 41 travelled along the banks of Loch 42 Lomond variegated as the lower part is 43 with islands, without wishing for a by with islands, without feeling that 44 speedier termination of the long vista of wishing for a speedier termination of the 45 blank water, for an interposition of green long vista of blank water would be 46 meadows, trees, and cottages, and a acceptable; and without wishing for an 47 sparkling stream to run by his side? in interposition 48 fact, a notion of grandeur, as connected 49 with magnitude, has seduced persons of 50 taste into a general mistake upon this 51 subject. It is much more desirable for the 52 purposes of pleasure that lakes should be 53 numerous, and small or middle sized than 54 large, not only for communication by 55 walks and rides, but for variety and and for 56 recurrence of similar appearances. To 57 illustrate this only by one instance:—how this only by 58 pleasing is it to have a ready and frequent 59 opportunity of watching at the outlet of a 60 lake, the stream pushing its way among 61 the rocks in lively contrast with the 62 stillness from which it has escaped; and 63 how amusing to compare its noisy and 64 turbulent motions with the gentle 65 playfulness of the breezes, which may be 66 starting up or wandering here and there 67 over the faintly rippled surface of the 68 broad water. I may add, as a general 69 remark upon this subject, that in lakes of remark upon this subject that, in lakes 70 great width, the shores cannot be 71 distinctly seen at the same time, and 72 therefore contribute little to mutual 73 illustration and ornament; and if, like the and, if, the opposite shores 74 American and Asiatic lakes, the opposite are out of sight of each other, like those 75 shores are out of sight of each other, then of the American and Asiatic lakes, then 76 unfortunately the traveller is reminded of 77 a nobler object; he has the blankness of a 78 sea prospect without the same grandeur 79 and accompanying sense of power. 13- 1 [This is the most thoroughly revised As the comparatively small size of the 15 2 passage of the Guide. The 2nd ed. adds lakes in the North of England is 3 several sentences and reorders paragraphs favourable to the production of 4 13-15 of the 1st ed. New material for the variegated landscape, their boundary- 5 2nd ed. is bolded. Corresponding line also is for the most part gracefully 6 passages in the 1st and 2nd eds. are color- or boldly indented. That uniformity 7 coded.] which prevails in the primitive frame 8 of the lower grounds among all chains 9 or clusters of mountains where large 10 bodies of still water are bedded, is 11 broken by the secondary agents of 12 nature, ever at work to supply the 13 deficiencies of the mould in which 14 things were originally cast. It need It need 15 scarcely be observed that using the scarcely be observed that Using 16 word, deficiencies, I do not speak with 17 reference to those stronger emotions 18 which a region of mountains is 19 peculiarly fitted to excite. The bases of 20 those huge barriers may run for a long 21 space in straight lines, and these 22 parallel to each other; the opposite 23 sides of a profound vale may ascend as 24 exact counterparts or in mutual 25 reflection like the billows of a troubled 26 sea; and the impression be, from its 27 very simplicity, more awful and 28 sublime. Sublimity is the result of 29 Nature’s first great dealings with the 30 superficies of the earth; but the general 31 tendency of her subsequent operations, 32 is towards the production of beauty, 33 by a multiplicity of symmetrical parts 34 uniting in a consistent whole. This is 35 every where exemplified along the 36 margin of these lakes. Masses of rock, 37 that have been precipitated from the 38 heights into the area of waters, lie lie in 39 frequently like stranded ships; or have some places frequently like 40 acquired the compact structure of 41 jutting piers; or project in little 42 peninsulas crested with native wood. 43 The smallest rivulet — one whose 44 silent influx is scarcely noticeable in a 45 season of dry weather so faint is the 46 dimple made by it on the surface of 47 the smooth lake — will be found to 48 have been not useless in shaping, by its 49 deposits of gravel and soil in time of 50 flood, a curve that would not 51 otherwise have existed. But the more 52 powerful brooks, encroaching upon 53 the level of the lake, have in course of 54 time given birth to ample 55 promontories, whose sweeping line promontories, of whose sweeping outline 56 often contrasts boldly with the that line often contrasts 57 longitudinal base of the steeps on the 58 opposite shore; while their flat or 59 gently-sloping surface never fails to surfaces never fail 60 introduce, into the midst of desolation 61 and barrenness, the elements of 62 fertility, even where the habitations of 63 men may not happen to have been may not happen to have 64 raised. These alluvial promontories, 65 however, threaten in some places to 66 bisect the waters which they have long 67 adorned; and, in course of ages, they 68 will cause some of the lakes to dwindle 69 into numerous and insignificant pools; 70 which, in their turn, will finally be 71 filled up. But the man of taste will say, But the man of taste will say, it is an 72 it is an impertinent calculation that impertinent calculation that leads to such 73 leads to such unwelcome conclusions; unwelcome conclusions; But checking 74 — let us rather be content with these intrusive calculations, let us 75 appearances as they are, and pursue in 76 imagination the meandering shores, 77 So much for the form and size of lakes in whether rugged steeps, admitting of no 78 general as illustrative of these in cultivation, descend abruptly into the 79 particular.—Their size and forms being water; or in others the shore is formed by or the shore is formed by gently- 80 thus in general terms described, I may gently-sloping lawns and rich woods, or sloping lawns and rich woods, or by flat 81 add that, from the multitude of brooks by with the interposition of flat and and fertile meadows stretching between 82 and torrents which fall into them, and of fertile meadows stretching between the 83 internal springs by which they are fed, margin of the lake and the mountains. 84 and which circulate through them like Among minuter recommendations will 85 veins, they are truly living lakes, “vivi be noted with pleasure the curved in be noticed, especially along bays 86 lacus,” and are thus discriminated from many places they are beautifully edged exposed to the setting-in of strong 87 the stagnant and sullen pools frequent with a rim of fine blue gravel thrown up winds, the curved rim of fine blue gravel, 88 among mountains that have been formed by the waves, especially in bays thrown up in course of time by the 89 by volcanos, and from the shallow meres exposed to the setting-in of strong waves, half of it perhaps gleaming from 90 which are found in flat and fenny winds; here and there are found, here and there are found, and under the water, and the 91 countries. The water is also pure and bordering the lake, groves, if I may so call bordering corresponding half of a lighter hue; 92 chrystalline; so that, if it were not for the them, of reeds and bulrushes; or plots of and in other parts bordering the lake 93 reflections of the incumbent mountains water-lilies lifting up their large circular large target-shaped circular 94 by which it is darkened, a delusion might leaves to the breeze, if it be stirring, while 95 be felt by a person resting quietly in a the white flower is heaving upon the 96 boat on the bosom of Winandermere or wave. 97 Derwent-water similar to that which 98 Carver so beautifully describes when he 99 was floating alone in the middle of the 100 lake Erie or Ontario, and could almost [New paragraph and poetry excerpt To these may naturally be added the 101 have imagined that his boat was added in 4th ed.] birds that enliven the waters. Wild- 102 suspended in an element as pure as air, or ↓ ducks in springtime hatch their young 103 rather that the air and water were one. in the islands, and upon reedy shores; 104 — the sand-piper, flitting along the 105 As to the shores, it will be understood stony margins, by its restless note 106 that those of the lakes in this country are attracts the eye to motions as restless: 107 endlessly diversified; in some places —upon some jutting rock, or at the 108 mountains, that admit of no cultivation, edge of a smooth meadow, the stately 109 descend abruptly into the water; in others heron may be descried with folded 110 the shore is formed by gently sloping wings, that might seem to have caught 111 lawns and rich woods, with the their delicate hue from the blue 112 interposition of flat and fertile meadows waters, by the side of which she 113 between the margin of the lake and the watches for her sustenance. In winter, 114 mountains; in many places they are the lakes are sometimes resorted to by 115 beautifully edged with a rim of blue wild swans; and in that season 116 gravel; here and there are found, habitually by widgeons, goldings, and 117 bordering the lake, groves (if I may so call other aquatic fowl of the smaller 118 them) of reeds and bulrushes, or water- species. Let me be allowed the aid of 119 lilies lifting up the orb of their large leaves verse to describe the evolutions which 120 to the breeze, if it be stirring, while the these visitants sometimes perform, on 121 white flower is heaving upon the wave. a fine day towards the close of winter. 122 ↓ Mark how the feather'd tenants of the flood, 123 With grace of motion that might scarcely seem 124 Inferior to angelical, prolong 125 Their curious pastime! shaping in mid air 126 (And sometimes with ambitious wing that soars 127 High as the level of the mountain tops,) 128 A circuit ampler than the lake beneath, 129 Their own domain; — but ever, while intent 130 On tracing and retracing that large round, 131 Their jubilant activity evolves 132 Hundreds of curves and circlets, to and fro, 133 Upward and downward, progress intricate 134 Yet unperplex'd, as if one spirit swayed 135 Their indefatigable flight. — 'Tis done — 136 Ten times, or more, I fancied it had ceased; 137 But lo! the vanish'd company again 138 Ascending; — they approach — I hear their wings 139 Faint, faint, at first, and then an eager sound 140 Past in a moment—and as faint again! 141 They tempt the sun to sport amid their plumes; 142 They tempt the water or the gleaming ice, 143 To shew them a fair image; — 'tis themselves, 144 Their own fair forms, upon the glimmering plain, 145 Painted more soft and fair as they descend 146 Almost to touch;—then up again aloft, 147 Up with a sally and a flash of speed, 148 As if they scorn'd both resting-place and rest! 149 M.S. 150 151 The ISLANDS are neither so numerous, The Islands are neither so numerous The Islands, dispersed among these 152 nor so beautiful, as might be expected nor so beautiful as might be expected Lakes, are neither 153 from the account which I have given of from the account I have given of the account that has been I have given of 154 the manner in which the level areas of the manner in which the level areas of the 155 vales are so frequently diversified by vales are so frequently diversified by 156 rocks, hills, and hillocks, scattered over rocks, hills, and hillocks, scattered over 157 them: nor are they ornamented, as are them; nor are they ornamented, as are 158 sometimes the islands of the lakes in several sometimes the islands of the lakes several islands of the lakes 159 Scotland, by the remains of castles or in Scotland, by the remains of old castles in Scotland and Ireland, by 160 other places of defence, or of monastic or other places of defence, or of monastic defence; nor with the still more 161 edifices. edifices. interesting ruins of religious edifices. 162 [New sentences in 3rd and 4th eds.] [New sentence in 4th ed.] Every one must regret that scarcely a 163 ↓ ↓ vestige is left of the Oratory, 164 consecrated to the Virgin, which stood 165 upon Chapel Holm in Windermere, 166 and that the Chauntry has 167 disappeared, where mass used to be 168 sung, upon St. Herbert’s Island, 169 Those upon Derwent-water are Derwent-Water. The islands of the last 170 neither fortunately placed nor of mentioned lake are neither 171 pleasing shape; but if the wood upon 172 them were managed with more taste, 173 they might become interesting features 174 There is however a There is however a in the landscape. There is however a 175 beautiful cluster of islands at beautiful cluster of islands on beautiful cluster of islands on 176 Winandermere; a pair of pleasingly Winandermere; a pair of pleasingly 177 contrasted at Rydale; nor must the contrasted upon at Rydal; nor must the 178 solitary green Island of Grasmere be solitary green island at of Grasmere be island in at Grasmere island of in Grasmere 179 forgotten. In the bosom of each of the forgotten. In the bosom of each of the 180 lakes of Ennerdale and Devock-water is a lakes of Ennerdale and Devock-water is a single rock which owing to its single rock which, owing to its 181 neighbourhood to the sea, is neighbourhood to the sea, is 182 183 “The haunt of Cormorants and Sea-mews clang;” “The haunt of cormorants and sea-mews' clang," 184 185 a music suited to the stern and wild a music well suited to the stern and wild 186 character of the several scenes. character of the several scenes! several scenes! It may be worth 187 [Sentences added in 4th ed.] while here to mention (not as an 188 ↓ object of beauty, but of curiosity) that 189 there occasionally appears above the 190 surface of Derwent-water, and always 191 in the same place, a considerable tract 192 of spungy ground covered with aquatic 193 plants, which is called the Floating, 194 but with more propriety might be 195 named the Buoyant, Island; and, on 196 one of the pools near the lake of 197 Esthwaite, may sometimes be seen a 198 mossy Islet, with trees upon it, shifting 199 about before the wind, a lusus naturae 200 frequent on the great rivers of 201 America, and not unknown in other 202 parts of the world. 203 204 ------"fas habeas invisere Tiburis arva, 205 Albuneaeque lacum, atque umbras terrasque 206 natantes."*[Note added]

207 208 This part of the subject may be

209 concluded with observing — that, from

210 the multitude of brooks and torrents that

211 fall into these lakes them, and of internal

212 springs by which they are fed, and which

213 circulate through them like veins, they

214 are truly living lakes, "vivi lacus;” and are

215 thus discriminated from the stagnant and

216 sullen pools frequent among mountains

217 that have been formed by volcanoes, and

218 from the shallow meres found in flat and

219 fenny countries. The water is also pure water is also pure 220 and crystalline; so that, if it were not for and of crystalline purity; 221 the reflections of the incumbent

222 mountains by which it is darkened, a

223 delusion might be felt, by a person resting

224 quietly in a boat on the bosom of

225 Winandermere or Derwentwater, similar

226 to that which Carver so beautifully

227 describes when he was floating alone in

228 the middle of the lake Erie or Ontario,

229 and could almost have imagined that his middle of the lake Erie

230 boat was suspended in an element as pure

231 as air, or rather that the air and water

232 were one.

233

[New footnote] *See that admirable 234 Idyllium, the Catillus and Salia, of 235 Landor. 236 16 1 Having spoken of lakes I must not omit 2 to mention, as a kindred feature of this 3 country, those bodies of still water which water which 4 are called TARNS. These are found in are called Tarns called Tarns. These are found in 5 some of the vallies, some of the vallies In the economy of 6 [Sentences added in 4th ed.] nature these are useful, as auxiliars to 7 ↓ Lakes; for if the whole quantity of 8 water which falls upon the mountains 9 in time of storm were poured down 10 upon the plains without intervention, 11 in some quarters, of such receptacles, 12 the habitable grounds would be much 13 more subject than they are to 14 inundation. But, as some of the 15 collateral brooks spend their fury, 16 finding a free course down the channel a free course toward and also down 17 of the main stream of the vale before 18 those that have to pass through the 19 higher tarns and lakes have filled their 20 several basins, a gradual distribution is 21 effected; and the waters thus reserved, 22 instead of uniting with those which instead of uniting, to spread ravage and 23 meet with no such detention to spread deformity, with those which meet with 24 ravage and deformity, contribute to no such detention, contribute to 25 support, for a length of time, the 26 vigour of many streams without a fresh 27 fall of rain. Tarns are found in some of 28 and are very numerous upon the are very numerous the vales, and are numerous upon the 29 mountains. A Tarn in a vale implies, for mountains. 30 the most part, that the bed of the vale is 31 not happily formed; that the water of the 32 brooks can neither wholly escape, nor 33 diffuse itself over a large area. 34 Accordingly, in such situations, tarns are 35 often surrounded by a tract of boggy surrounded by an unsightly tract of 36 ground which has an unsightly boggy ground which has an unsightly 37 appearance; but this is not always the appearance; but this 38 case, and in the cultivated parts of the 39 country, when the shores of the tarn are 40 determined, it differs only from the lake 41 in being smaller and in belonging mostly 42 to a smaller valley or circular recess. Of 43 this miniature class of lakes Loughrigg this class of miniature lakes 44 Tarn near Grasmere is the most beautiful 45 example. It has its margin of green firm has a its margin 46 meadows, of rocks and rocky woods, a 47 few reeds here, a little company of water 48 lilies there, with beds of gravel or stone 49 beyond; a tiny stream issuing neither 50 briskly nor sluggishly out of it; but its 51 feeding rills, from the shortness of their 52 course, so small as to be scarcely visible. 53 Five or six cottages are reflected in its 54 peaceful bosom; rocky and barren steeps 55 rise up above the hanging enclosures; and 56 the solemn pikes of Langdale overlook, 57 from a distance, the low cultivated ridge 58 of land that forms the northern boundary 59 of this small, quiet, and fertile domain. 60 The mountain tarns can only be 61 recommended to the notice of the 62 inquisitive traveller who has time to 63 spare. They are difficult of access and 64 naked; yet some of them are, in their 65 permanent forms, very grand; and there 66 are accidents of things which would make 67 the meanest of them interesting. In the At all events, In the 68 first place one of these pools is an first place one 69 acceptable sight to the mountain 70 wanderer, not merely as an incident that 71 diversifies the prospect, but as forming in 72 his mind a spot or conspicuous point to a centre spot or 73 which objects, otherwise disconnected or 74 unsubordinated, may be referred. Some 75 few have a varied outline, with bold 76 heath-clad promontories; and, as they 77 mostly lie at the foot of a steep precipice, 78 the water appears black and sullen; and the water, where the sun is not shining 79 round the margin, masses of rock are upon it, appears black and sullen; and 80 scattered. round the margin, huge stones and 81 ↓ masses of rock are scattered; some 82 defying conjecture as to the means by 83 which they came there, and others came there thither, and 84 obviously fallen from on high — the 85 contribution of ages! The sense, also, ages! A not unpleasing sadness is 86 of some repulsive power strongly put induced by this perplexity, and these 87 forth — excited by the prospect of a images of decay; while the prospect 88 body of pure water unattended with 89 groves and other cheerful rural images 90 by which fresh water is usually 91 accompanied, and unable to give any give any 92 furtherance to the meagre vegetation 93 around it — heightens the melancholy around it—excites a sense of some 94 natural to such scenes. Nor is repulsive power strongly put forth, and 95 The feeling of solitude is seldom more the feeling of solitude often more thus deepens the melancholy natural 96 strongly and more solemnly impressed forcibly or strongly and more solemnly 97 than by the side of one of these mountain 98 pools: though desolate and forbidding, it 99 seems a distinct place to repair to, yet 100 where the visitants must be rare, and 101 there can be no disturbance—Water fowl 102 flock hither; and the lonely angler may 103 oftentimes here be seen; but the oftentimes here 104 imagination, not content with this, is with this scanty allowance of society, is 105 tempted to attribute a voluntary power to 106 every change which takes place in such a 107 spot, whether it be the breeze that 108 wanders over the surface of the water, or 109 the splendid lights of evening that rest that resting 110 upon it in the midst of the awful midst of the awful 111 precipices. 112 113 There sometimes doth a leaping fish 114 Send through the tarn a lonely chear; 115 The crags repeat the raven’s croak 116 In symphony austere: 117 Thither the rainbow comes, the cloud, 118 And mists that spread the flying shroud, 119 And sunbeams, and the sounding blast,— 17 1 Though this country is, on one side, It will be observed that this country 2 bounded by the sea which combines is, on one side, bounded on the south 3 beautifully, from some elevated points of and east by the sea, which combines 4 view, with the inland scenery; beautifully, from many some elevated 5 [Addition in 3rd ed.] points of view, with the inland scenery; 6 ↓ and, from the bay of Morcamb, the 7 sloping shores and back-ground of 8 distant mountains are seen composing 9 pictures equally distinguished 10 yet no where are found the grand yet no where are found the grand for grandeur and amenity. But the for amenity and grandeur. 11 estuaries which are common in Scotland aestuaries cannot pretend to vie with aestuaries cannot pretend to vie with 12 and Wales: those of Scotland and Wales those of Scotland and Wales on this 13 [Addition in 3rd ed.] coast are in a great measure bare at 14 ↓ low water, and there is no instance of low water* [Note added] 15 the sea running far up among the 16 mountains, and mingling with the 17 the lakes are such in the strict and usual Lakes, which are such in the strict and 18 sense of the word, being all of fresh water; usual sense of the word, being all of fresh 19 nor have the rivers themselves, from the the rivers themselves, from water. Nor have the rivers streams, from 20 shortness of their course, time to acquire 21 that body of water necessary to confer 22 upon them much majesty. In fact, while In fact, the most considerable 23 they continue in the mountain and lake of them, while of them, while 24 country, they are rather large brooks than country, they are 25 rivers. The water is perfectly pellucid, 26 through which in many places are seen to 27 a great depth their beds of rock or of blue 28 gravel, which give to the water itself an 29 exquisitely cerulean colour: this is 30 particularly striking in the rivers of rivers of 31 Derwent and Duddon which may 32 confidently be compared, such and so confidently be compared 33 various are their beauties, to any two 34 rivers of equal length of course in any 35 country. The number of the torrents and 36 smaller brooks is infinite, with their 37 waterfalls and water-breaks; and they 38 need not here be described. I will only 39 observe that, as many, even of the 40 smallest of these rills, have either found smallest of these rills 41 or made for themselves recesses in the 42 sides of the mountains or in the vales, 43 they have tempted the primitive 44 inhabitants to settle near them for 45 household accommodation and for for household accommodation and for 46 shelter; and hence the retirement and shelter hence the retirement and 47 seclusion by which these cottages are seclusion by which these, cottages so 48 endeared to the eye of the man of placed, by seeming to withdraw from 49 sensibility. the eye, are the more endeared to the eye 50 of the man of sensibility feelings. 51 52 [New footnote] * In fact there is not 53 an instance of a harbour on the 54 Cumberland side of the Solway frith 55 that is not dry at low water; that of 56 Ravenglass, at the mouth of the Esk, as 57 a natural harbour is much the best. 58 The Sea appears to have been retiring 59 slowly for ages from this coast. From 60 Whitehaven to St. Bees extends a track 61 of level ground, about five miles in 62 length, which formerly must have been 63 under salt water, so as to have made an 64 island of the high ground that 65 stretches between it and the Sea. 18 1 The woods consist chiefly of oak, ash, 2 and birch, and here and there (though there (though 3 very rarely) a species of elm, with very rarely) a species there a species of Wych-elm 4 underwood of hazel, the white and black 5 thorn and hollies; in the moist places in the moist places 6 alders and willows abound; and yews 7 among the rocks. Formerly the whole 8 country must have been covered with 9 wood to a great height up the mountains; 10 and native Scotch firs (as in the northern where and native where native Scotch firs must have grown Scotch firs* [Note added] 11 parts of Scotland to this day) must have in great profusion, as they do in the 12 grown in great profusion. But no one of But not no one of these northern part of Scotland to this day. 13 these old inhabitants of the country old inhabitants of the country remains, or 14 remains, or perhaps has done for some has existed, perhaps has done for some 15 hundreds of years: beautiful traces, hundreds years; the beautiful traces 16 however, of the universal sylvan sylvan* [Note added] 17 appearance, which the country formerly appearance, which the country 18 had, are yet seen both in the native had, yet survive in the native 19 coppice woods which remain, and which woods that which remain, and which coppice-woods that remain, and that have 20 have been protected by enclosures, and have been been protected 21 also in the forest trees and hollies which, 22 though disappearing fast, are yet scattered 23 over both the enclosed and unenclosed both over 24 parts of the mountains. The same is 25 expressed by the beauty and intricacy 26 with which the fields and coppice-woods 27 are often intermingled: the plough of the 28 first settlers having followed naturally the 29 veins of richer, dryer, or less stony soil; 30 and thus it has shaped out an 31 intermixture of wood and lawn the grace lawn with a the grace 32 and wildness of which it would have been and wildness of which 33 impossible for the hand of studied art to 34 produce. Other trees have been 35 introduced within these last fifty years, 36 such as beeches, larches, elms, limes, &c. larches, elms, limes, &c. 37 and plantations of Scotch firs, seldom plantations of Scotch firs 38 with advantage, and often with great 39 injury to the appearance of the country: 40 but the sycamore (which I believe was 41 brought into this island from Germany 42 not more than two hundred years ago) 43 has long been the favourite of the 44 cottagers; and, with the Scotch fir, has with the Scotch fir 45 been chosen to screen their dwellings; 46 and is sometimes found in the fields 47 whither the winds or waters may have the winds or the waters 48 carried its seeds. 49 50 [New footnote] *This species of fir is 51 in character much superior to the 52 American which has usurped its place: 53 Where the fir is planted for ornament, 54 let it be by all means of the aboriginal 55 species, which can only be procured 56 from the Scotch nurseries. 57 58 [New footnote] *A squirrel (so I have 59 heard the old people of Wytheburn 60 say) might have gone from their chapel 61 to Keswick without alighting on the 62 ground. 19 1 The want which is most felt, however, is The want which is most felt 2 that of timber trees. There are few There are a few 3 magnificent ones to be found near any of 4 the lakes; and indeed, unless greater care And indeed, unless greater 5 be taken, there will in a short time 6 scarcely be left an oak that would repay an ancient oak 7 the cost of felling. The neighbourhood of 8 Rydale, notwithstanding the havoc which 9 has been made, is yet nobly distinguished; 10 and we have reason to hope, will long and we have reason to hope, will long 11 continue so. In the woods of Lowther continue so. 12 also are found store of the grandest trees, is are found an almost matchless store store of ancient the grandest trees 13 and all the majesty and wildness of the all the majesty 14 native forest. 20 1 Among the smaller vegetable ornaments 2 which nature has here provided, must be provided here by nature, must provided here by nature must be 3 reckoned the juniper, bilberry, reckoned the juniper, bilberry, a ground plant never so beautiful as in 4 [Addition in 3rd ed.] early spring, when it is seen under 5 ↓ bare or budding trees, that imperfectly 6 intercept the sun-shine, covering the 7 rocky knolls with a pure mantle of 8 fresh verdure, more lively than the 9 herbage of the open fields; the 10 broom that spreads luxuriantly along 11 rough pastures, and in the month of 12 June intervenes the steep copses with 13 its golden blossoms; and the June interveins intervenes the 14 juniper, a rich evergreen, that thrives 15 in spite of cattle, upon the unenclosed 16 parts of the mountains;-- 17 and the broom plant the Dutch myrtle 18 and the broom plant, with which the hills diffuses fragrance in moist places, and 19 and woods abound, the Dutch myrtle in there is an endless variety 20 moist places, and the endless variety of 21 brilliant flowers in the fields and 22 meadows; which, if the agriculture of the 23 country were more carefully attended to, 24 would disappear. Nor can I omit again to 25 notice the lichens and mosses, which, in mosses, which, in 26 profusion, beauty, and variety, exceed —their profusion 27 those of any other country I have seen. 21 1 [New para. added in 3rd ed.] It may now be proper to say a few 2 words respecting climate, and “skiey 3 influences,” in which this region, as far 4 as the character of its landscapes is 5 affected by them, may, upon the 6 whole, be considered fortunate. The 7 country is, indeed, subject to much 8 bad weather, and it has been 9 ascertained that twice as much rain 10 falls here as in many parts of the 11 island; but the number of black 12 drizzling days, that blot out the face of 13 things, is by no means proportionally 14 great. Nor is a continuance of thick, 15 flagging, damp air, so common as in 16 the West of England and Ireland. The 17 rain here comes down heartily, and is 18 frequently succeeded by clear, bright 19 weather, when every brook is vocal, 20 and every torrent sonorous; brooks and 21 torrents, which are never muddy, even 22 in the heaviest floods, except after a 23 drought they happen to be defiled for 24 a short time by waters that have swept 25 along dusty roads, or broken out into roads, or have broken 26 ploughed fields. Days of unsettled 27 weather, with partial showers, are very 28 frequent; but the showers, darkening 29 or brightening as they fly from hill to 30 hill, are not less grateful to the eye 31 than finely interwoven passages of gay 32 and sad music are touching to the ear. 33 Vapours exhaling from the lakes and 34 meadows after sun-rise, in a hot 35 season, or, in moist weather, brooding 36 upon the heights, or descending 37 towards the vallies with inaudible 38 motion, give a visionary character to 39 every thing around them; and are in 40 themselves so beautiful, as to dispose 41 us to enter into the feelings of those 42 simple nations (such as the Laplanders 43 of this day) by whom they are taken 44 for guardian deities of the mountains; 45 or to sympathise with others who have 46 fancied these delicate apparitions to be 47 the spirits of their departed ancestors. 48 Akin to these are fleecy clouds resting 49 upon the hill tops; they are not easily 50 managed in picture, with their 51 accompaniments of blue sky; but how 52 glorious are they in nature! how 53 pregnant with imagination for the 54 poet! and the height of the Cumbrian 55 mountains is sufficient to exhibit daily 56 and hourly instances of those 57 mysterious attachments. Such clouds, 58 cleaving to their stations, or lifting up 59 suddenly their glittering heads from 60 behind rocky barriers, or hurrying out 61 of sight with speed of the sharpest 62 edge, will often tempt an inhabitant to 63 congratulate himself on belonging to a 64 country of mists, and clouds, and 65 storms, and make him think of the 66 blank sky of Egypt, and of the cerulean 67 vacancy of Italy, as an unanimated and 68 even a sad spectacle. The atmosphere, 69 however, as in every other country every other country 70 subject to much rain, is frequently 71 unfavourable to landscape, especially 72 when keen winds succeed the rain, 73 which are apt to produce coldness, 74 spottiness, and an unmeaning or 75 repulsive detail in the distance;—a 76 sunless frost, under a canopy of leaden 77 and shapeless clouds, is, as far as it 78 allows things to be seen, equally 79 disagreeable. 22 1 [Three new paragraphs in 4th ed.] It has been said that in human life 2 there are moments worth ages. In a 3 more subdued tone of sympathy may 4 we affirm, that in the climate of 5 England there are, for the lover of 6 nature, days which are worth whole 7 months,—I might say—even years. 8 One of these favoured days sometimes 9 occurs in spring-time, when that soft 10 air is breathing over the blossoms and 11 new-born verdure, which inspired 12 Buchanan with his beautiful Ode to 13 the first of May; the air, which, in the 14 luxuriance of his fancy, he likens to 15 that of the golden age, — to that 16 which gives motion to the funereal 17 cypresses on the banks of Lethe; — to 18 the air which is to salute beatified 19 spirits when expiatory fires shall have 20 consumed the earth with all her 21 habitations. But it is in autumn that 22 days of such affecting influence most 23 frequently intervene;—the atmosphere 24 seems refined, and the sky rendered 25 more crystalline, as the vivifying heat 26 of the year abates; the lights and 27 shadows are more delicate; the 28 colouring is richer and more finely 29 harmonized; and, in this season of 30 stillness, the ear being unoccupied, or 31 only gently excited, the sense of vision 32 becomes more susceptible of its 33 appropriate enjoyments. A resident in 34 a country like this which we are 35 treating of, will agree with me, that 36 the presence of a lake is indispensable 37 to exhibit in perfection the beauty of 38 one of these days; and he must have 39 experienced, while looking on the 40 unruffled waters, that the imagination, 41 by their aid, is carried into recesses of 42 feeling otherwise impenetrable. The 43 reason of this is, that the heavens are 44 not only brought down into the bosom 45 of the earth, but that the earth is 46 mainly looked at, and thought of, 47 through the medium of a purer 48 element. The happiest time is when 49 the equinoxial gales are departed; but 50 their fury may probably be called to 51 mind by the sight of a few shattered 52 boughs, whose leaves do not differ in 53 colour from the faded foliage of the 54 stately oaks from which these relics of 55 the storm depend:—all else speaks of 56 tranquillity;—not a breath of air, no 57 restlessness of insects, and not a 58 moving object perceptible—except the 59 clouds gliding in the depths of the 60 lake, or the traveller passing along, an 61 inverted image, whose motion seems 62 governed by the quiet of a time, to 63 which its archetype, the living person, 64 is, perhaps, insensible:—or it may 65 happen, that the figure of one of the 66 larger birds, a raven or a heron, is 67 crossing silently among the reflected 68 clouds, while the voice of the real bird, 69 from the element aloft, gently awakens 70 in the spectator the recollection of 71 appetites and instincts, pursuits and 72 occupations, that deform and agitate 73 the world,— yet have no power to 74 prevent nature from putting on an 75 aspect capable of satisfying the most 76 intense cravings for the tranquil, the 77 lovely, and the perfect, to which man, 78 the noblest of her creatures, is subject. 23 1 Thus far of climate, as influencing the 2 feelings through its effect on the 3 objects of sense. We may add, that 4 whatever has been said upon the 5 advantages derived to these scenes 6 from a changeable atmosphere, would 7 apply, perhaps still more forcibly, to 8 their appearance under the varied 9 solemnities of night. Milton, it will be 10 remembered, has given a clouded 11 moon to Paradise itself. In the night- 12 season also, the narrowness of the 13 vales, and comparative smallness of the 14 lakes, are especially adapted to bring 15 surrounding objects home to the eye 16 and to the heart. The stars, taking 17 their stations above the hill-tops, are 18 contemplated from a spot like the 19 Abyssinian recess of Rasselas, with 20 much more touching interest than 21 they are likely to excite when looked at 22 from an open country with ordinary 23 undulations: and it must be obvious, 24 that it is the bays only of large lakes 25 that can present such contrasts of light 26 and shadow as those of smaller 27 dimensions display from every quarter. 28 A deep contracted valley, with diffused 29 waters, and plains level and wide as waters, such a valley and plains 30 those of Chaldea, are the two extremes 31 in which the beauty of the heavens and 32 their connexion with the earth are 33 most sensibly felt. Nor do the 34 advantages I have been speaking of 35 imply here an exclusion of the aerial 36 effects of distance. These are insured 37 by the height of the mountains, and 38 are found, even in the narrowest vales, 39 where they lengthen in perspective, or 40 act (if the expression may be used) as 41 telescopes for the open country. 24 1 The subject would bear to be enlarged 2 upon; but I will conclude this section 3 with a night-scene suggested by the 4 Vale of Keswick. The Fragment is well 5 known; but it gratifies me to insert it, 6 as the Writer was one of the first who 7 led the way to a worthy admiration of 8 this country. 9 10 “Now sunk the sun, now twilight sunk, and night 11 Rode in her zenith; not a passing breeze 12 Sigh'd to the grove, which in the midnight air 13 Stood motionless, and in the peaceful floods 14 Inverted hung: for now the billows slept 15 Along the shore, nor heav'd the deep; but spread 16 A shining mirror to the moon's pale orb, 17 Which, dim and waning, o'er the shadowy cliffs, 18 The solemn woods, and spiry mountain tops, 19 Her glimmering faintness threw: now every eye, 20 Oppress'd with toil, was drown'd in deep repose, 21 Save that the unseen Shepherd in his watch, 22 Propp'd on his crook, stood listening by the fold, 23 And gaz'd the starry vault, and pendant moon; 24 Nor voice, nor sound, broke on the deep serene; 25 But the soft murmur of soft-gushing rills, 26 Forth issuing from the mountain's distant steep, 27 (Unheard till now, and now scarce heard) proclaim'd 28 All things at rest, and imag'd the still voice 29 Of quiet, whispering in the ear of night."* [Note] 30 31 [New footnote] *Dr. Brown, the 32 author of this fragment, was a native was from his infancy brought 33 of Cumberland, and should have up in a native of Cumberland 34 remembered that the practice of 35 folding sheep by night is unknown 36 among these mountains, and that the 37 image of the Shepherd upon the watch 38 is out of its place, and belongs only to 39 countries, with a warmer climate, that 40 are subject to ravages from beasts of 41 prey. It is pleasing to notice a dawn of 42 imaginative feeling in these verses. 43 Tickel, a man of no common genius, 44 chose, for the subject of a Poem, 45 Kensington Gardens, in preference to 46 the Banks of the Derwent, within a 47 mile or two of which he was born. But 48 this was in the reign of Queen Anne, 49 or George the first. Progress must have 50 been made in the interval; though the 51 traces of it, except in the works of 52 Thomson and Dyer, are not very 53 obvious. [New section heading in 3rd ed.] SECTION SECOND. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AS AFFECTED BY ITS INHABITANTS. 25 1 Thus far I have chiefly spoken of the Thus far Hitherto I 2 features by which Nature has 3 discriminated this country from others. I 4 will now describe in general terms, in 5 what manner it is indebted to the hand of 6 man. What I have to notice on this 7 subject will emanate most easily and 8 perspicuously from a description of the 9 ancient and present inhabitants, their 10 occupations, their condition of life, the 11 distribution of landed property among 12 them, and the tenure by which it is 13 holden. 26 1 The reader will here suffer me to recall to The reader will suffer me here to recall to 2 his mind the description which I have his mind the shapes of the valleys and 3 given of the substance and form of these their position with respect to each other, 4 mountains, the shape of the vallies and and the forms and substance of the 5 their position with respect to each other. intervening mountains. 6 He will people the vallies with lakes and 7 rivers, the sides and coves of the the coves and sides 8 mountains with pools and torrents; and 9 will bound half of the circle which we 10 have contemplated by the sands of the 11 sea, or by the sea itself. He will conceive 12 that, from the point upon which 13 he before stood he looks down upon this he before stood 14 scene before the country had been 15 penetrated by any inhabitants: to vary his 16 sensations and to break in upon their 17 stillness, he will form to himself an image 18 of the tides visiting and revisiting the 19 Friths, the main sea dashing against the 20 bolder shore, the rivers pursuing their 21 course to be lost in the mighty mass of 22 waters. He may see or hear in fancy the 23 winds sweeping over the lakes, or piping 24 with a loud noise among the mountain loud voice noise among 25 peaks; and lastly may think of the 26 primaeval woods shedding and renewing 27 their leaves with no human eye to notice, 28 or human heart to regret or welcome the 29 change. “When the first settlers entered 30 this region, (says an animated writer) they 31 found it overspread with wood; forest 32 trees, the fir, the oak, the ash, and the 33 birch, had skirted the fells, tufted the 34 hills, and shaded the vallies through 35 centuries of silent solitude; the birds and 36 beasts of prey reigned over the meeker 37 species; and the bellum inter omnia 38 maintained the balance of nature in the 39 empire of beasts.” 27 1 Such was the state and appearance of this 2 region when the aboriginal colonists of 3 the Celtic tribes were first driven or 4 drawn towards it, and became joint 5 tenants with the wolf, the boar, the wild 6 bull, the red deer and the leigh, a gigantic 7 species of deer which has been long 8 extinct; while the inaccessible crags were 9 occupied by the falcon, the raven, and the 10 eagle. The inner parts were too secluded 11 and of too little value to participate much 12 of the benefit of Roman manners; and 13 though these conquerors encouraged the 14 Britons to the improvement of their lands 15 in the plain country of Furness and 16 Cumberland, they seem to have had little 17 connection with the mountains which mountains, except for military 18 were not subservient to the profit they purposes, or in subservience which were 19 drew from the mines. not subservient to the profit 28 1 When the Romans retired from Great 2 Britain, it is well known that these 3 mountain fastnesses furnished a 4 protection to some unsubdued Britons, 5 long after the more accessible and more 6 fertile districts had been seized by the 7 Saxon or Danish invader. A few traces of A few though distinct traces 8 Roman forts or camps, as at Ambleside 9 and upon Dunmallet, (erected probably Dunmallet, (erected probably to 10 to secure a quiet transfer of the ore from secure a quiet transfer of the ore from the 11 the mines) and two or three circles of mines) and two and a few two or three circles 12 rude stones attributed to the Druids, are to the Druids,* [Note added] 13 the only visible vestiges, that remain upon only visible vestiges 14 the surface of the country, of these 15 ancient occupants; and as the Saxons and 16 Danes, who succeeded to the possession 17 of the villages and hamlets which had 18 been established by the Britons, seem to seem at first to 19 have confined themselves to the open 20 country, —we may descend at once to 21 times long posterior to the conquest by 22 the Normans when their feudal policy feudal polity policy was 23 was regularly established. We may easily 24 conceive that these narrow dales and 25 mountain sides, choaked up as they 26 would be with wood, lying out of the way must have been would be with wood 27 of communication with other parts of the 28 Island, and upon the edge of a hostile 29 kingdom, would have little attraction for kingdom, could would have 30 the high-born and powerful; especially as 31 the more open parts of the country 32 furnished positions for castles and houses 33 of defence sufficient to repel any of those 34 sudden attacks, which in the then rude 35 state of military knowledge, could be 36 made upon them. Accordingly the more 37 retired regions (and observe it is to these I and observe it is to these to such I 38 am now confining myself) must have 39 been neglected or shunned even by the 40 persons whose baronial or seignioral 41 rights extended over them, and left 42 doubtless partly as a place of refuge for 43 outlaws and robbers, and partly granted 44 out for the more settled habitation of a 45 few vassals following the employment of 46 shepherds or woodlanders. Hence these 47 lakes and inner vallies are unadorned by 48 any of the remains of ancient grandeur, any of the remains 49 castles or monastic edifices, which are 50 only found upon the skirts of this skirts of the this 51 country, as Furness Abbey, Calder Abbey, 52 the Priory of Lanercost, Gleaston Castle, Castle,—long ago a 53 the original residence of the Flemings, the original residence 54 and the numerous ancient Castles of the 55 Cliffords and the Dacres. On the Clifford, the Lucys, and the Dacres 56 southern side of these mountains, 57 (especially in that part known by the 58 name of Furness Fells, which is more 59 remote from the borders) the state of 60 society would necessarily be more settled; 61 though it was fashioned not a little, with though it also was fashioned not a little, 62 the rest of this country, by its rest of the this country with the rest of the country, by 63 neighbourhood to a hostile kingdom. We 64 will therefore give a sketch of the 65 oeconomy of the Abbots in the 66 distribution of lands among their tenants, 67 as similar plans were doubtless adopted 68 by other Lords, and as the consequences 69 have affected the face of the country 70 materially to the present day, being in 71 fact one of the principal causes which give 72 it such a striking superiority, in beauty 73 and interest over all other parts of the 74 Island. 75 76 [New footnote] *It is not improbable 77 that these circles were once numerous, 78 and that many of them may yet endure 79 in a perfect state, under no very deep 80 covering of soil. A friend of the 81 Author, while making a trench in a 82 level piece of ground, not far from the 83 banks of the Emont, but in no 84 connection with that river, met with 85 some stones which seemed to him 86 formally arranged; this excited his 87 curiosity, and proceeding, he 88 uncovered a perfect circle of stones, 89 from two, to three or four feet high, 90 with a sanctum sanctorum,—the whole 91 a complete place of Druidical worship 92 of small dimensions, having the same 93 sort of relation to the Stones of Shap, relation to Stonehenge the Stones of 94 or Long Meg and her Daughters, near Shap, or, Long Meg and her Daughters 95 the banks of the river Eden, near the banks of the river Eden, and 96 ↓ Karl Lofts near Shap (if this last be not 97 Danish), that a rural chapel bears to a 98 that a rural chapel bears to our noble stately church, or to one of our noble 99 cathedrals. This interesting little cathedrals. 100 monument having passed, with the 101 field in which it was found, into other 102 hands, has been destroyed. It is much 103 to be regretted, that the striking relic 104 of antiquity at Shap has been in a great 105 measure destroyed also. It is thus It is thus 106 described in the History of described in the History of 107 Westmorland:— Westmorland:— 108 “Towards the south end of the “Towards the south end of the 109 village of Shap, near the turnpike road, village of Shap, near the turnpike road, 110 on the east side thereof, there is a on the east side thereof, there is a 111 remarkable monument of antiquity; remarkable monument of antiquity; 112 which is an area upwards of half a mile which is an area upwards of half a mile 113 in length, and between twenty and in length, and between twenty and 114 thirty yards broad, encompassed with thirty yards broad, encompassed with 115 large stones (with which that country large stones (with which that country 116 abounds), many of them three or four abounds), many of them three or four 117 yards in diameter, at eight, ten, or yards in diameter, at eight, ten, or twelve 118 twelve yards distance, which are of yards distance, which are of 119 such immense weight that no carriage such immense weight that no carriage 120 now in use could support them. now in use could support them. 121 Undoubtedly this hath been a place of Undoubtedly this hath been a place of 122 Druid worship, which they always Druid worship, which they always 123 performed in the open air, within this performed in the open air, within this 124 kind of enclosure, shaded with wood, kind of enclosure, shaded with wood, 125 as this place of old time appears to as this place of old time appears to 126 have been, although there is now have been, although there is now scarce 127 scarce a tree to be seen, (Shapthorn a tree to be seen, (Shapthorn only 128 only excepted, planted on the top of excepted, planted on the top of the hill 129 the hill for the direction of travellers). for the direction of travellers). At the 130 At the high end of this place of high end of this place of worship there 131 worship there is a circle of the like is a circle of the like stones about 132 stones about eighteen feet in diameter, eighteen feet in diameter, which was which was their sanctum sanctorum, (as their sanctum sanctorum, (as it were), and 133 it were), and place of sacrifice. The place of sacrifice. The stone is a 134 stone is a kind of granite, and when kind of granite, and when broken 135 broken appears beautifully variegated appears beautifully variegated with 136 with bright shining spots, like spar. bright shining spots, like spar. The 137 The country people have blasted and country people have blasted and 138 carried away some of these stones, for carried away some of these stones, for 139 the foundation-stones of buildings. In the foundation-stones of buildings. In 140 other places some have cut these stones other places some have cut these stones 141 (but with difficulty) for mill-stones. (but with difficulty) for mill-stones. 142 When polished they would make When polished they would make 143 beautiful chimney-pieces.” Some beautiful chimney-pieces.” Some 144 contend that this is a Danish contend that this is a Danish 145 monument. monument. 146 The Daughters of Long Meg are 147 placed not in an oblong, as the Stones 148 of Shap, but in a perfect circle, eighty 149 yards in diameter, and seventy-two in 150 number, and from above three yards 151 high, to less than so many feet: a little 152 way out of the circle stands Long Meg 153 herself—a single stone eighteen feet 154 high. 155 When the Author first saw this 156 monument he came upon it by 157 surprize, therefore might over-rate its 158 importance as an object; but he must 159 say, that though it is not to be 160 compared with Stonehenge, he has not 161 seen any other remains of those dark 162 ages, which can pretend to rival it in 163 singularity and dignity of appearance. 164 165 A weight of awe not easy to be borne Fell suddenly upon my spirit, cast 166 167 From the dread bosom of the unknown past, 168 When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn;— 169 And her, whose strength and stature seem to scorn The power of years—pre-eminent, and placed 170 171 Apart, to overlook the circle vast. 172 Speak, Giant-mother! tell it to the Morn, 173 While she dispels the cumbrous shades of night; Let the Moon hear, emerging from a cloud, 174 175 When, how, and wherefore, rose on British ground 176 That wond’rous Monument, whose mystic round 177 Forth shadows, some have deem’d, to mortal sight 178 The inviolable God that tames the proud. 179 29 1 “When the Abbots of Furness,” says an 2 author before cited, “enfranchised their 3 villains, and raised them to the dignity of 4 customary tenants, the lands, which they 5 had cultivated for their lord were divided 6 into whole tenements; each of which, 7 besides the customary annual rent, was 8 charged with the obligation of having in 9 readiness a man completely armed for the 10 king’s service on the borders or elsewhere: 11 each of these whole tenements was again 12 subdivided into four equal parts; each 13 villain had one; and the party tenant 14 contributed his share to the support of 15 the man at arms, and of other burthens. man of at arms 16 These divisions were not properly 17 distinguished; the land remained mixed; 18 each tenant had a share through all the 19 arable and meadow land, and common of 20 pasture over all the wastes. These sub- 21 tenements were judged sufficient for the 22 support of so many families; and no 23 further division was permitted. These 24 divisions and subdivisions were 25 convenient at the time for which they 26 were calculated; the land, so parcelled 27 out, was of necessity more attended to; 28 and the industry greater, when more 29 persons were to be supported by the 30 produce of it. The frontier of the 31 kingdom, within which Furness was 32 considered, was in a constant state of 33 attack and defence; more hands therefore 34 were necessary to guard the coast, to repel 35 an invasion from Scotland, or make 36 reprisals on the hostile neighbour. The 37 dividing the lands in such manner as has 38 been shewn, increased the number of 39 inhabitants, and kept them at home till 40 called for; and, the land being mixed, and 41 the several tenants united in equipping 42 the plough, the absence of the fourth 43 man was no prejudice to the cultivation 44 of his land, which was committed to the 45 care of three. 30 1 While the villains of Low Furness were 2 thus distributed over the land, and 3 employed in agriculture; those of High 4 Furness were charged with the care of 5 flocks and herds, to protect them from 6 the wolves which lurked in the thickets, 7 and in winter to brouze them with the 8 tender sprouts of hollies and ash. This 9 custom was not till lately discontinued in 10 High Furness; and holly trees were 11 carefully preserved for that purpose, when 12 all other wood was cleared off; large tracts 13 of common being so covered with these 14 trees as to have the appearance of a forest 15 of hollies. At the Shepherd’s call the 16 flocks surrounded the holly bush, and 17 received the croppings at his hand which 18 they greedily nibbled up, bleating for 19 more. The Abbots of Furness 20 enfranchised these pastoral vassals, and 21 permitted them to enclose quillets to 22 their houses for which they paid 23 encroachment rent.”—West’s Antiquities 24 of Furness. 31 1 However desirable for the purposes of 2 defence a numerous population might be, 3 it was not possible to make at once the 4 same numerous allotments among the 5 untilled vallies and upon the sides of the 6 mountains as had been made in the 7 cultivated plains. The enfranchised 8 shepherd or woodlander, having chosen 9 there his place of residence, builds it of 10 sods or of the mountain stone, and with 11 the permission of his lord, encloses, like 12 Robinson Crusoe, a small croft or two 13 immediately at his door for such animals 14 chiefly as he wishes to protect. Others are chiefly as he 15 happy to imitate his example, and avail 16 themselves of the same privileges; and 17 thus population creeps on towards the thus a population, mainly of Danish 18 ↓ or Norse origin, as the dialect 19 indicates, crept creeps on towards the 20 more secluded parts of the vallies. 21 Chapels, daughters of some distant 22 mother church, are first erected in the 23 more open and fertile vales, as those of 24 Bowness and Grasmere, offsets of Kendal; 25 which again after a period, as the settled 26 population increases, become mother 27 churches to smaller edifices scattered at edifices, planted scattered at 28 length almost in every dale throughout length in almost 29 the country. The enclosures, formed by 30 the tenantry, are for a long time confined 31 to the homesteads; and the arable and 32 meadow land of the vales is possessed in 33 common field; the several portions being 34 marked out by stones, bushes, or trees; 35 which portions, where the custom has 36 survived, to this day are called Dales, 37 probably from the Belgic word deylen, (to probably from the Belgic word 38 distribute) but while the vale was thus 39 lying open, enclosures seem to have taken 40 place, upon the sides of the mountains; 41 because the land there was not 42 intermixed, and was of little comparative 43 value; and therefore small opposition 44 would be made to its being appropriated 45 by those to whose habitations it was 46 contiguous. Hence the singular 47 appearance which the sides of many of 48 these mountains exhibit, intersected as 49 they are almost to their summit, with almost to the their summit 50 stone walls, of which the fences are always walls, of which the fences are 51 formed. When first erected, they must always formed. When first erected, these 52 have little disfigured the face of the stone fences they must 53 country; as part of the lines would every 54 where be hidden by the quantity of native 55 wood then remaining; and the lines 56 would also be broken (as they still are) by 57 the rocks which interrupt and vary their 58 course. In the meadows, and in those 59 parts of the lower grounds where the soil 60 has not been sufficiently drained and 61 could not afford a stable foundation, 62 there, when the encreasing value of land 63 and the inconvenience suffered from 64 intermixed plots of ground in common 65 field had induced each inhabitant to 66 enclose his own, they were compelled to 67 make the fences of alders, willows, and 68 other trees. These where the native wood 69 had disappeared, have frequently 70 enriched the vallies with a sylvan 71 appearance; while the intricate 72 intermixture of property has given to the 73 fences a graceful irregularity, which, 74 where large properties are prevalent and 75 large capitals employed in agriculture, is 76 unknown. This sylvan appearance is still appearance is still further heightened 77 further heightened by the number of ash 78 trees which have been planted in rows trees which have been planted 79 along the quick fences, and along the 80 walls, for the purpose of brouzing cattle browsing the cattle 81 at the approach of winter. The branches 82 are lopped off and strewed upon the 83 pastures; and, when the cattle have 84 stripped them of the leaves, they are used 85 for repairing hedges or for fuel. repairing the hedges 32 1 We have thus seen a numerous body of 2 dalesmen creeping into possession of their 3 homesteads, their little crofts, their 4 mountain enclosures; and finally, the 5 whole vale is visibly divided; except 6 perhaps here and there some marshy 7 ground, which till fully drained, would 8 not repay the trouble of enclosing. But 9 these last partitions do not seem to have 10 been general till long after the 11 pacification of the Borders, by the union 12 of the two crowns; when the cause, which 13 had first determined the distribution of 14 land into such small parcels, have not parcels, had have not 15 only ceased,—but likewise a general 16 improvement had taken place in the 17 country, with a correspondent rise in the 18 value of its produce. From the time of the 19 union of the two kingdoms, it is certain union of the two kingdoms, it 20 that this species of feudal population population 21 would rapidly diminish. That it was must would rapidly have diminished 22 formerly much more numerous than it is 23 at present, is evident from the multitude 24 of tenements (I do not mean houses, but 25 small divisions of land) which belonged 26 formerly each to its several proprietor, 27 and for which separate fines are paid to 28 the manorial lord at this day. These are 29 often in the proportion of four to one, of 30 the present occupants. “Sir Launcelot 31 Threlkeld who lived in the reign of 32 Henry VII, was wont to say, he had three 33 noble houses, one for pleasure, Crosby in 34 Westmoreland, where he had a park full 35 of deer; one for profit and warmth, 36 wherein to reside in winter, namely, 37 Yanwith nigh Penrith; and the third, 38 Threlkeld (on the edge of the vale of 39 Keswick) well stocked with tenants to go 40 with him to the wars.” But, as I have said, 41 from the union of the two kingdoms this two crowns kingdoms, this 42 numerous vassalage (their services not 43 being wanted) would rapidly diminish; 44 various tenements would be united in one 45 possessor; and the aboriginal houses, 46 probably little better than hovels, like the 47 kraels of savages or the huts of the 48 Highlanders of Scotland, would many of would many of 49 them fall into decay and wholly them fall into decay, and wholly 50 disappear, while the place of others was disappear, while the places of many be 51 supplied by substantial and comfortable others was supplied 52 buildings, a majority of which remain to 53 this day scattered over the vallies, and are 54 in many the only dwellings found in often in many the only 55 them. 33 1 From the time of the erection of these 2 houses, till within the last forty years, the last fifty forty years last sixty fifty years 3 state of society, though no doubt slowly 4 and gradually improving, underwent no 5 material change. Corn was grown in these 6 vales (through which no carriage road had carriage-road had yet been 7 been made) sufficient upon each estate to 8 furnish bread for each family, and no 9 more: notwithstanding the union of 10 several tenements, the possessions of each 11 inhabitant still being small, in the same 12 field was seen an intermixture of different 13 crops; and the plough was interrupted by 14 little rocks, mostly overgrown with wood, 15 or by spungy places which the Tillers of 16 the soil had neither leisure nor capital to 17 convert into firm land. The storms and 18 moisture of the climate induced them to 19 sprinkle their upland property with 20 outhouses of native stone as places of 21 shelter for their sheep, where in 22 tempestuous weather food was 23 distributed to them. Every family spun 24 from its own flock the wool with which it 25 was clothed; a weaver was here and there 26 found among them; and the rest of their 27 wants were supplied by the produce of 28 the yarn, which they carded and spun in 29 their own houses upon the large wheel, houses upon the large wheel, and carried 30 and carried it to market either under their it to market 31 arms, or more frequently on pack-horses, 32 a small train taking their way weekly 33 down the valley or over the mountains to 34 the most commodious town. They had, 35 as I have said, their rural chapel, and of 36 course their Minister, in cloathing or in 37 manner of life in no respect differing 38 from themselves, except on the Sabbath- 39 day; this was the sole distinguished 40 individual among them; every thing else, 41 person and possession, exhibited a perfect 42 equality, a community of Shepherds, and 43 Agriculturalists, proprietors for the most 44 part of the lands which they occupied and 45 cultivated. 34 1 While the process above detailed was 2 going on, the native Forests must have 3 been every where receding: but trees were 4 planted for the sustenance of the flocks in 5 winter, such was the then rude state of such was then the rude 6 agriculture; and, for the same cause, it 7 was necessary that care should be taken 8 of some part of the growth of the 9 native forest. Accordingly in Queen native wood forest. 10 Elizabeth’s time this was so strongly felt, 11 that a petition was made to the Crown 12 praying “that the Blomaries in high 13 Furness might be abolished on account of 14 the quantity of wood which was 15 consumed in them for the use of the 16 Mines, to the great detriment of the 17 cattle.” But this same cause, about a 18 hundred years after, produced effects 19 directly contrary to those which had been 20 deprecated. The re-establishment, at that 21 period, of furnaces upon a large scale 22 made it the interest of the people to 23 convert the steepest and more stony of the steeper steepest and 24 the enclosures, sprinkled over with 25 the remains of the native forest, into close the remains 26 woods, which, when cattle and sheep 27 were excluded, rapidly sowed and 28 thickened themselves. I have already I have already directed 29 directed the Reader’s attention to the The reader’s attention has been directed 30 cause by which tufts of wood, pasturage, 31 meadow and arable land with its various 32 produce are intricately intermingled in 33 the same field; and he will now see in like 34 manner how enclosures entirely of wood, 35 and those of cultivated ground, are 36 blended all over the country under a law 37 of similar wildness. 35 1 An historic detail has thus been given of 2 the manner in which the hand of man has 3 acted upon the surface of the inner 4 regions of the mountainous country, as of this the mountainous 5 incorporated with and subservient to the 6 powers and processes of nature. We will 7 now take a view of the same agency 8 acting within narrower bounds for the 9 production of the few works of art and 10 accommodations of life which in so 11 simple a state of society, could be 12 necessary. These are merely habitations of 13 man and coverts for beasts, roads and 14 bridges, and places of worship. 36 1 And to begin with the COTTAGES. 2 They are scattered over the vallies, and 3 under the hill sides, and on the rocks; 4 and to this day in the more retired dales, and even to 5 without any intrusion of more assuming 6 buildings, 7 8 Clustered like stars some few, but single most, 9 And lurking dimly in their shy retreats, 10 Or glancing on each other cheerful looks, 11 Like separated stars with clouds between. 12 MS. MS. S. S. MS. 37 1 The dwelling houses, and contiguous out- 2 houses are in many instances of the 3 colour of the native rock out of which 4 they have been built; but frequently 5 the dwelling house has been the Dwelling or Fire-house, as it is 6 distinguished from the barn and byre by ordinarily called, has been distinguished barn or and byre 7 rough-cast, and white wash, which, as the 8 inhabitants are not hasty in renewing it, 9 in a few years acquires, by the influence 10 of the weather, a tint at once sober and of the weather 11 variegated. As these houses have been from father to son inhabited by persons 12 engaged in the same occupations, 13 yet necessarily with changes in 14 their circumstances, they have 15 received additions and accommodations 16 adapted to the needs of each successive received without incongruity additions 17 occupant, who, being for the most part 18 proprietor, was at liberty to follow his 19 own fancy; so that these humble 20 dwellings remind the contemplative 21 spectator of a production of nature, and 22 may (using a strong expression) rather be 23 said to have grown than to have been 24 erected;—to have risen by an instinct of 25 their own out of the native rock; so little 26 is there in them of formality; such is their 27 wildness and beauty. Among the 28 numerous recesses and projections in the 29 walls and in the different stages of their 30 roofs are seen the boldest and most 31 harmonious effects of contrasted sunshine are seen the boldest bold and most 32 and shadow. It is a favourable 33 circumstance that the strong winds which 34 sweep down the vallies induced the 35 inhabitants, at a time when the materials 36 for building were easily procured, to 37 furnish many of these dwellings with 38 substantial porches; and such as have not 39 this defence are seldom unprovided with 40 a projection of two large slates over their 41 threshholds. Nor will the singular beauty 42 of the chimnies escape the eye of the 43 attentive traveller. Sometimes a low 44 chimney, almost upon a level with the 45 roof, is overlaid with a slate, supported 46 upon four slender pillars, to prevent the 47 wind from driving the smoke down the 48 chimney. Others are of a quadrangular 49 shape rising one or two feet above the 50 roof; which low square is surmounted by 51 a tall cylinder giving to the cottage is often surmounted 52 chimney the most beautiful shape in 53 which it is ever seen. Nor will it be too 54 fanciful or refined to remark, as a general 55 principle, that there is a pleasing remark, as a general 56 harmony between a tall chimney of this principle, that 57 circular form and the living column of 58 smoke through the still air ascending 59 from it. These dwellings, as has been said, ascending from it through the still air. 60 are built of rough unhewn stone; and These dwellings, mostly built, as has 61 they are roofed with slates which were 62 rudely taken from the quarry, before the 63 present art of splitting them was 64 understood, and the slates are therefore 65 rough and uneven in their surfaces. Both and the slates are 66 the coverings and sides of the houses have surfaces so that both the 67 furnished places of rest for the seeds of 68 lichens, mosses, fern, and flowers. Hence 69 buildings, which in their very form call to 70 mind the processes of nature, do thus, by 71 this vegetable garb with which they are thus, clothed with this thus, clothed in part with a this 72 cloathed, appear to be received into the vegetable garb with which they are vegetable garb 73 bosom of the living principle of things, as cloathed, appear 74 it acts and exists among the woods and 75 fields; and, by their colour and their 76 shape, affectingly direct the thoughts to 77 that tranquil course of nature and 78 simplicity along which the humble- 79 minded inhabitants have through so 80 many generations been led. Add the little 81 garden with its shed for beehives, its small 82 beds of pot-herbs, and its border and 83 patches of flowers for Sunday posies, with 84 sometimes a choice few too much prized 85 to be plucked; an orchard of 86 proportioned size; a cheese-press often 87 supported by some tree near the door; a 88 cluster of embowering sycamores for 89 summer shade, with a tall Scotch fir 90 through which the winds sing when other a tall Scotch fir 91 trees are leafless; the little rill or 92 household spout murmuring in all 93 seasons—combine these incidents and 94 images together, and you have the 95 representative idea of a mountain cottage 96 in this country, so beautifully formed in 97 itself and so richly adorned by the hand 98 of nature. 99 38 1 Till within the last forty years there was last fifty forty years last sixty fifty years 2 no communication between any of these 3 vales by carriage roads; all bulky articles 4 were transported on pack-horses. But, But, 5 owing to the population not being Owing, however, to the population 6 concentrated in villages but scattered, the 7 vallies themselves were intersected as now 8 by innumerable lanes and pathways 9 leading from house to house and from 10 field to field. These lanes where they are 11 fenced by stone walls are mostly bordered 12 with ashes, hazels, wild roses, and beds of 13 tall fern, at their base; while the walls 14 themselves if old, are overspread with 15 mosses, small ferns, wild strawberries, the 16 geranium, and lichens; and, if the wall 17 happens to rest against a bank of earth, it 18 is sometimes almost wholly concealed by 19 a rich facing of stone-fern. It is a great 20 advantage to a traveller or resident, that 21 these numerous lanes and paths, if 22 he be a zealous admirer of nature, 23 will introduce him, nay, will lead him on will introduce him, nay, will lead 24 into all the recesses of the country, so that 25 the hidden treasures of its landscapes will landscapes may will 26 by an ever ready guide be laid open to his 27 eyes. 39 1 Likewise to the smallness of the several 2 properties is owing the great number of 3 bridges over the brooks and torrents, and 4 the daring and graceful neglect of danger 5 or accommodation with which so many 6 of them are constructed, the rudeness of 7 the forms of some, and their endless 8 variety. But, when I speak of this 9 rudeness, I must at the same time add 10 that many of these structures are in 11 themselves models of elegance, as if they 12 had been formed upon principles of the 13 most thoughtful architecture. It is to be 14 regretted that these monuments of the 15 skill of our ancestors, and of that 16 happiness of instinct by which happy happiness of instinct 17 consummate beauty was produced, are 18 disappearing fast; but sufficient specimens 19 remain to give a high gratification to the remain* [Note added] 20 man of genuine taste. Such travellers as Such Travellers as who may not 21 may not be accustomed to pay attention have been accustomed to pay attention 22 to these things will excuse me if I point to these things so inobtrusive, will 23 out the proportion between the span and 24 elevation of the arch, the lightness of the 25 parapet, and the graceful manner in 26 which its curve follows faithfully that of 27 the arch. 28 29 [New footnote] *Written some time 30 ago. The injury done since, is more 31 than could have been calculated upon. 32 33 Singula de nobis anni praedantur 34 euntes. This is in the course of things; 35 but why should the genius that 36 directed the ancient architecture of 37 these vales have deserted them? For the 38 bridges, churches, mansions, cottages, 39 and their richly fringed and flat-roofed 40 outhouses, venerable as the grange of 41 some old abbey, have been substituted 42 structures, in which baldness only 43 seems to have been studied, on plans 44 of the most vulgar utility. But some 45 improvement may be looked for in 46 future; the gentry recently have copied 47 the old models, and successful 48 instances might be pointed out, if I 49 could take the liberty. 40 1 Upon this subject I have nothing further 2 to notice, except the places of worship, 3 which have mostly a little schoolhouse 4 adjoining. The lowliness of simple The architecture lowliness of simple adjoining.* [Note added] 5 elegance of these churches and chapels, a elegance of these churches and chapels, 6 [Additions in 2nd ed.] where they have not been recently 7 ↓ rebuilt or modernised, is of a style 8 not less appropriate and admirable 9 than that of the dwelling-houses and 10 other structures. How sacred the 11 spirit by which our forefathers were 12 directed! The religio loci is no where 13 outraged by these unstinted, yet violated outraged by 14 unpretending, works of human 15 hands. They exhibit generally a 16 well proportioned oblong with a porch, well-proportioned oblong with a suitable 17 in some instances a steeple tower, and in porch, 18 others nothing more than a small belfry 19 in which one or two bells hang visibly,— 20 these are objects which, though pleasing But these are objects which, though 21 in their forms, must necessarily, more 22 than any others in rural scenery, derive than any others 23 their interest from the feelings of piety the sentiments feelings of piety 24 and reverence for the modest virtues and 25 simple manners of humble life with 26 which they may be contemplated. A man 27 must be very insensible who would not be 28 touched with pleasure at the sight of the 29 Chapel of Buttermere, which by its Buttermere, so strikingly 30 diminutive size, so strikingly expresses expressing by its diminutive size, 31 how small must be the congregation there how small 32 assembled, as it were like one family, and 33 proclaims at the same time to the proclaiming proclaims at 34 passenger, in connection with the 35 surrounding mountains, the depth of that 36 seclusion in which the people live which 37 has rendered necessary the building of a 38 separate place of worship for so few. A 39 Patriot, calling to mind the image of the 40 stately fabrics of Canterbury, York, or 41 Westminster, will find a heartfelt 42 satisfaction in presence of this lowly pile, 43 as a monument of the wise institutions of 44 our country, and as evidence of the all- 45 pervading and paternal care of that 46 venerable Establishment of which it is 47 perhaps the humblest daughter.—The 48 edifice is scarcely larger than many of the 49 single stones or fragments of rock which 50 are scattered near it. 51 52 [New footnote] *In some places 53 scholars were formerly taught in the 54 church, and at others the school-house 55 was a sort of anti-chapel to the place of 56 worship, being under the same roof; an 57 arrangement which was abandoned as 58 irreverent. It continues, however, to 59 this day in Borrowdale. In the parish 60 register of that chapelry is a notice, 61 that a Youth who had quitted the 62 valley, and died in one of the towns on 63 the coast of Cumberland, had 64 requested that his body should be 65 brought and interred at the foot of the 66 pillar by which he had been 67 accustomed to sit while a schoolboy. 68 One cannot but regret that parish 69 registers so seldom contain any thing 70 but bare names; in a few of this 71 country, especially in that of 72 Loweswater, I have found interesting 73 notices of unusual natural 74 occurrences—characters of the 75 deceased, and particulars of their lives. 76 There is no good reason why such 77 memorials should not be frequent; 78 these short and simple annals would in 79 future ages become precious. 41 1 We have thus far confined our 2 observations on this division of the 3 subject to that part of these Dales which 4 runs far up into the mountains. In runs up far In 5 addition to such objects as have been addition to such objects as have been 6 hitherto described, it may be mentioned hitherto described, it may be mentioned 7 that, as we descend towards the open part that, as we descend towards the open part 8 of the Vales, we meet with the remains of of the Vales, we meet with the remains of 9 ancient Parks, and with old mansions of ancient Parks, and with old Mansions of 10 more stately architecture; and it may be more stately architecture; and it may be 11 observed that to these circumstances the observed, that to these circumstances the 12 country owes whatever ornament it country owes whatever ornament it 13 retains of majestic and full-grown timber, retains of majestic and full-grown timber, 14 as the remains of the park of the ancient as the remains of the park of the ancient 15 family of the Ratcliffs at Derwent-water, family of the Ratcliffes at Derwent-water, 16 Gowbray-park, and the venerable woods Gowbray-park, and the venerable woods 17 of Rydale. Through the more open part the more open parts of the vales of Rydal. Through the open parts of the 18 of the vales also are scattered houses of a also are scattered, with more spacious vales are scattered, with more spacious 19 middle rank between the pastoral cottage domains attached to them, houses and domains attached to them, houses of a 20 and the old hall-residences of the more middle rank, between the pastoral cottage 21 wealthy estatesman with more spacious wealthy Estatemen with more spacious and the old hall-residence of the more 22 domains attached to them. domains attached to them. wealthy Estatesman. 42 1 [New para. in 4th ed.] As we descend towards the open 2 country, we meet with halls and 3 mansions, many of which have been 4 places of defence against the incursions 5 of the Scottish borderers; and they not 6 unfrequently retain their towers and 7 battlements. To these houses, parks are 8 sometimes attached, and to their 9 successive proprietors we chiefly owe 10 whatever ornament is still left to the 11 country of majestic timber. Through 12 the open parts of the vales are 13 scattered, also, houses of a middle rank 14 between the pastoral cottage and the 15 old hall residence of the knight or 16 esquire. Such houses differ much from 17 the rugged cottages before described, 18 and are generally graced with a little 19 court or garden in front, where may 20 yet be seen specimens of those 21 fantastic and quaint figures which our 22 ancestors were fond of shaping out in 23 yew-tree, holly, or box-wood. The 24 passenger will sometimes smile at such 25 elaborate display of petty art, while the 26 house does not deign to look upon the 27 natural beauty or the sublimity which 28 its situation almost unavoidably 29 commands. 43 1 Thus has been given a faithful 2 description, the minuteness of which the 3 Reader will pardon, of the face of this 4 country as it was and had been through 5 centuries till within the last forty years. last fifty forty years. last sixty fifty years. 6 Towards the head of these Dales was 7 found a perfect Republic of Shepherds 8 and Agriculturists, among whom the 9 plough of each man was confined to the 10 maintenance of his own family, or to the 11 occasional accommodation of his 12 neighbour. Two or three cows furnished neighbour.* [Note added] 13 each family with milk and cheese. The 14 Chapel was the only edifice that presided 15 over these dwellings, the supreme head of 16 this pure Commonwealth; the members 17 of which existed in the midst of a 18 powerful empire, like an ideal society or 19 an organized community whose 20 constitution had been imposed and 21 regulated by the mountains which 22 protected it. Neither Knight nor Squire Neither high-born Nobleman, 23 nor high-born Nobleman was here; but Knight, nor Esquire, was here 24 many of these humble sons of the hills 25 had a consciousness that the land, which 26 they walked over and tilled, had for more 27 than five hundred years been possessed by 28 men of their name and blood—and 29 venerable was the transition when a 30 curious traveller, descending from the 31 heart of the mountains, had come to 32 some ancient manorial residence in the 33 more open part of the vales, which, with open parts of the vales, which, through 34 the rights attached to its proprietor, with the rights 35 connected the almost visionary mountain 36 Republic which he had been Republic which he 37 contemplating with the substantial frame 38 of society as existing in the laws and 39 constitution of a mighty empire. 40 41 [New footnote] *One of the most 42 pleasing characteristics of manners in 43 secluded and thinly-peopled districts, 44 is a sense of the degree in which 45 human happiness and comfort are 46 dependent on the contingency of 47 neighbourhood. This is implied by a 48 rhyming adage common here, “Friends 49 are far, when neighbours are nar” 50 (near). This mutual helpfulness is not 51 confined to out-of-doors work; but is 52 ready upon all occasions. Formerly, if a 53 person became sick, especially the 54 mistress of a family, it was usual for 55 those of the neighbours who were 56 more particularly connected with the 57 party by amicable offices, to visit the 58 house, carrying a present; this practice, 59 which is by no means obsolete, is 60 called owning the family, and is 61 regarded as a pledge of a disposition to 62 be otherwise serviceable in a time of 63 disability and distress. [New section heading in 3rd ed.] SECTION THIRD. CHANGES, AND RULES OF TASTE FOR PREVENTING THEIR BAD EFFECTS. 44 1 Such, as I have said, was the appearance Such, as hath been I have said, 2 of things till within these last forty years. last fifty forty years. within the these last sixty fifty years 3 A practice which by a strange abuse of practice which by practice, by a strange abuse of terms 4 terms has been denominated ornamental terms has been denominated 5 gardening, was at that time, becoming 6 generally prevalent over England. In generally prevalent 7 union with an admiration of this art, and 8 in some instances in opposition to it, had 9 been generated a relish for select parts of 10 natural scenery; and Travellers, instead of 11 confining their observations to Towns, 12 Manufactures, or Mines, began (a thing Manufactories Manufactures, or Mines 13 till then unheard of) to wander over 14 the Island in search of sequestered 15 spots which they might have accidentally spots distinguished, as they might 16 learnt were distinguished for the accidentally have learned, for the 17 sublimity and beauty of the forms of sublimity or and beauty 18 nature there to be seen. Dr. Brown the 19 celebrated author of the “Estimate of the 20 Manners and Principles of the Times,” 21 &c. published a letter to a friend in &c. 22 which the attractions of the Vale of 23 Keswick were delineated with a powerful 24 pencil and the feeling of a genuine 25 enthusiast. Gray, the Poet followed; 26 and the report, which he gave, was and the report, which he gave, was 27 circulated among his friends. He died circulated among his friends. 28 soon after his forlorn and melancholy 29 pilgrimage to the Vale of Keswick; and 30 the record which he left behind him of record which he left 31 what he had seen and felt in this journey 32 excited that pensive interest with which 33 the human mind is ever disposed to listen 34 to the farewell words of a man of genius. 35 The journal of Gray feelingly recorded feelingly showed recorded 36 the manner in which the gloom of ill how the manner in which the gloom 37 health and low spirits had been irradiated 38 by objects most beautiful and sublime objects most beautiful and sublime which 39 which the Author’s powers of mind 40 enabled him to describe with distinctness 41 and unaffected simplicity. Every reader of this 42 ↓ journal must have been impressed with 43 the words that conclude his notice of 44 The Vale of Grasmere is thus happily the Vale of Grasmere is thus happily 45 discriminated at the close of his discriminated at the close of his 46 description.—“Not a single red tile, description. 47 no gentleman’s flaring house or garden no flaring gentleman’s house or garden 48 walls, break in upon the repose of this wall, breaks 49 little unsuspected paradise; but all is 50 peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its 51 neatest and most becoming attire.” 45 1 What is here so justly said of Grasmere 2 applied almost equally to all its sister 3 vales. It was well for the undisturbed 4 pleasure of the Poet’s mind that he had pleasure of the Poet’s mind that 5 no forebodings of what was so soon after of the change which what was soon 6 to take place; and it might have been 7 hoped that these words, at once the words, indicating how much 8 dictate of a sympathetic heart, a pure the charm of what was, depended 9 imagination, and a genuine taste, would upon what was not, at once the dictate 10 ↓ of a sympathetic heart, a pure imagination, and a genuine taste, would 11 almost of themselves 12 almost of themselves have preserved the 13 ancient franchises of this and other 14 kindred mountain retirements from dare to say? 15 trespass or intrusion, or (shall I dare say?) 16 would have secured scenes so consecrated 17 from profanation. The Lakes had now the mania of ornamental 18 become celebrated; the mania of gardening and prospect hunting had 19 ornamental gardening and prospect spread wide 20 hunting had spread wide; visitors flocked parts of England the Island 21 hither from all parts of the Island; the smitten so deeply strongly , 22 fancies of some of these were so strongly 23 smitten that they became settlers; and numerous violations soon ensued the 24 and numerous violations soon ensued. Islands of Derwent-water and 25 Winandermere, as they offered the 26 strongest temptation, were the first 27 places seized upon, and were instantly 28 defaced by the intrusion. 29 46 1 [New para. in 2nd. ed.] The venerable wood that had grown 2 for centuries round the small house 3 called St. Herbert's Hermitage, had 4 indeed some years before been felled 5 by its native proprietor, and the whole 6 island had been planted anew with island had been planted 7 Scotch firs left to spindle up by each 8 other’s side — a melancholy phalanx, 9 defying the power of the winds, and 10 disregarding the regret of the 11 spectator, who might otherwise have 12 cheated himself into a belief, that some 13 of the decayed remains of those oaks, 14 the place of which is in this manner which was is in 15 usurped, had been planted by the 16 Hermit's own hand. Comparatively, 17 however, this sainted spot suffered This sainted spot, however, suffered 18 little injury. The Hind's Cottage upon comparatively little. At the bidding of an 19 Vicar's island, in the same lake, with alien improver, the Hind’s Cottage, upon 20 its embowering sycamores and cattle Vicar's island, in the same lake, with its 21 shed, disappeared, at the bidding of an embowering sycamores and cattle-shed, 22 alien improver, from the corner where disappeared from the corner where they 23 they had stood; and right in the stood; 24 middle, and upon the precise point of 25 the island’s highest elevation, rose a 26 tall square habitation, with four sides 27 exposed, like an observatory, or a an astronomer’s observatory 28 warren-house reared upon an eminence 29 for the detection of depredators, or, 30 like the temple of Œolus, where all the 31 winds pay him obeisance. Round this 32 novel structure, but at respectful at a respectful 33 distance, platoons of firs were 34 stationed, as if to protect their 35 commander when weather and time 36 should somewhat have shattered his 37 strength. Within the narrow limits of 38 this island were typified also the state 39 and strength of a kingdom, and its 40 religion as it had been and was, — for 41 neither was the druidical circle 42 uncreated, nor the church of the 43 present establishment; nor the stately 44 pier, emblem of commerce and 45 navigation; nor the fort, to deal out 46 thunder upon the approaching 47 invader. The taste of a succeeding 48 proprietor rectified the mistakes as far 49 as was practicable, and has ridded the 50 spot of all its puerilities. The church, of all its puerilities. 51 after having been docked of its steeple, 52 is applied, both ostensibly and really, 53 to the purpose for which the body of 54 the pile was actually erected, namely, a 55 boathouse; the fort is demolished, and, 56 without indignation on the part of the 57 spirits of the ancient Druids who 58 officiated at the circle upon the 59 opposite hill, the mimic arrangement 60 of stones, with its sanctum sanctorum, 61 has been swept away. 47 1 ↓ The present instance has been singled 2 out, extravagant as it is, because, 3 This beautiful unquestionably, this beautiful country 4 country has, in a great variety of has, in numerous other places a great 5 instances, suffered from the spirit of variety of instances, suffered from the 6 tasteless and capricious innovation. same spirit of tasteless and capricious 7 [New sentences in 2nd ed.] innovation, though not clothed exactly 8 ↓ in the same form, nor active in an 9 equal degree. It will be sufficient here 10 to utter a regret for the changes that 11 have been made upon the principal 12 Island at Winandermere, and in its 13 neighbourhood. What could be more 14 unfortunate than the taste that 15 suggested the paring of the shores, and 16 surrounding with an embankment this 17 spot of ground, the natural shape of 18 which was so beautiful! An artificial 19 appearance has thus been given to the 20 whole, while infinite varieties of 21 minute beauty have been destroyed. 22 Could not the margin of this noble 23 island be given back to nature? Winds 24 and waves work with a careless and 25 graceful hand; and, should they in 26 some places carry away a portion of the 27 soil, the trifling loss would be amply 28 compensated by the additional spirit, 29 dignity, and loveliness, which these 30 agents and the other powers of nature 31 would soon communicate to what was 32 left behind. As to the larch-plantations 33 upon the main shore, — they who 34 remember the original appearance of 35 the rocky steeps scattered over with 36 native hollies and ash-trees, will be 37 prepared to agree with what I shall 38 have to say hereafter upon plantations upon plantations* [Note added] 39 No one can now in general. But, in truth, no one in general. [Para. break added in 5th ed.] 40 travel through the more frequented tracts, [¶] But, in truth 41 without finding at almost every turn the without being offended finding at 42 venerable and pure simplicity of nature almost every turn by the venerable and 43 vitiated by some act of inconsiderate and pure simplicity of nature vitiated by some 44 impertinent art; without being offended act of inconsiderate and impertinent art; 45 by an introduction of discordant objects, without being offended an introduction 46 disturbing every where that peaceful of discordant objects disturbing every 47 harmony of form and colour which had where that peaceful 48 been through a long lapse of ages most 49 happily preserved. 50 51 52 [New footnote] *These are 53 disappearing fast, under the 54 management of the present Proprietor, 55 and native wood is resuming its place. 48- [Divided into 2 paras. after 1st. ed.] 49 1 All gross transgressions of this kind in kind in matters of taste 2 matters of taste originate in a feeling originate, doubtless, in a feeling 3 natural and honourable to the human 4 mind, viz., the pleasure which we receive pleasure which it we receives 5 from distinct ideas and from the 6 perception of order, regularity, and 7 contrivance. Now unpractised minds 8 receive these impressions only from 9 objects between which there exists objects that are divided from each other 10 eternally a strong demarkation; hence the by between which there exists eternally a 11 pleasure with which such minds are strong lines of demarcation; hence the 12 smitten by formality and harsh contrast. delight pleasure with 13 ↓ 14 But I would beg of those who, under the But I would beg of those who, under the 15 control of this craving for distinct ideas, control of this craving for distinct ideas, 16 are hastily setting about the production of are hastily setting about the production of 17 food by which it may be gratified, to food by which it may be gratified, to 18 temper their impatience, to look carefully temper their impatience, to look carefully 19 about them, to observe and to watch; and about them, to observe and to watch; and 20 they will find gradually growing within they will find gradually growing within 21 them a sense by which they will be them a sense by which they will be 22 enabled to perceive enabled to perceive are eager to create 23 ↓ the means of gratifaction, first carefully 24 to study what already exists; and they 25 in a country so lavishly gifted by will find in a country so lavishly gifted 26 nature an ever-renewing variety of by nature an abundant ever-renewing 27 forms which will be marked out with variety of forms which will be marked out 28 a precision that will satisfy their with a precision that will satisfy their 29 desires. Moreover, a new habit of pleasure desires. 30 will be forming in the mind the opposite will be formed forming in the mind 31 of this, viz., a habit arising out of the opposite to this, viz., a habit arising 32 perception of the fine gradations by 33 which in nature one thing passes away 34 into another, and the boundaries that 35 constitute individuality disappear in one 36 instance only to be renewed in another be revived elsewhere renewed in 37 under a more alluring form. My meaning another under a more alluring form. My 38 will at once be obvious to those who meaning will at once be obvious to those 39 remember the hill of Dunmallet at the who remember The hill 40 foot of Ulswater divided into different Ulswater, was once divided into 41 portions, as it once was by avenues of fir different portions by avenues 42 trees with a green and almost 43 perpendicular lane descending down the 44 steep hill through each avenue; who can who can 45 recall to mind the delight with which recall to mind the delight with which 46 they might as children have looked at this they might as children have looked at 47 quaint appearance; and are enabled to contrast this quaint appearance; and are 48 contrast that remembrance with the enabled to contrast that remembrance 49 pleasure which the more practiced eye of with the pleasure which the more 50 mature age would create for itself from practiced eye of mature age would create 51 the image of the same hill overgrown for itself with the image 52 with self-planted wood, each tree 53 springing up in the situation best suited 54 to its kind, and with that shape which the 55 same situation constrained or suffered it same situation 56 to take. What endless melting and 57 playing into each other of forms and 58 colours does the one offer to a mind at 59 once attentive and active; and how 60 insipid and lifeless, compared with it, 61 appear those parts of its former exhibition of the its former 62 with which a child, a peasant perhaps, or 63 a citizen unfamiliar with natural imagery, 64 would have been most delighted! 65 I cannot however omit observing that [Para. break added] I cannot, however, omit observing that 66 the disfigurement, which this country has The disfigurement 67 undergone has not proceeded wholly not, however, proceeded 68 from those common feelings of human from the those common 69 nature which have been referred to as the 70 primary sources of bad taste in rural 71 scenery; another cause must be added, imagery scenery 72 which has chiefly shewn itself in its effect 73 upon buildings. I mean a constraint or I mean a constraint or warping 74 warping of the natural mind arising out of the natural mind arising out of a sense 75 of a sense that, this country being an occasioned by a consciousness that 76 object of general admiration, every new 77 house would be looked at and 78 commented upon either for approbation 79 or censure. Hence all the deformity and 80 ungracefulness which ever pursue the 81 steps of constraint or affectation. 82 Men, who in Leicestershire or Men Persons, who 83 Northamptonshire would probably have 84 built a modest dwelling like those of their 85 sensible neighbours, have been turned out 86 of their course; and acting a part, no 87 wonder if, having had little experience, 88 they act it ill. Moreover, the craving for Moreover, The 89 prospect which is immoderate, craving for prospect also, which 90 particularly in new settlers, has rendered 91 it impossible that buildings, whatever 92 might have been their architecture, 93 should in most instances be ornamental 94 to the landscape; starting, as they do on rising starting as they do from on 95 the summits of naked hills in staring 96 contrast to the snugness and privacy of 97 the ancient houses. 50 1 I do not condemn in any man a desire No man is to be condemned for I do 2 that his residence and possessions should not condemn in any man a desire to 3 draw upon them the approbation of the decorate his residence and possessions 4 judicious; nor do I censure attempts to should draw upon them the approbation 5 decorate them for that purpose. I rather of the judicious; nor do I censure 6 applaud both the one and the other; and attempts to decorate them for that 7 would shew in what manner the end may purpose; feeling a disposition to I rather 8 be best attained. applaud both the one and the other; and 9 ↓ such an endeavor, I would shew how in 10 what manner the end may be best 11 attained. 12 The rule is simple; with respect to 13 grounds,—work, where you can, in the 14 spirit of nature with an invisible hand of 15 art. Planting, and a removal of wood, 16 may thus and thus only be carried on 17 with good effect; and the like may be said 18 of building, if antiquity which may be if Antiquity, who which may be 19 stiled the copartner and sister of nature, styled the partner copartner and sister 20 be not denied the respect to which she is 21 entitled. I have already spoken of the 22 beautiful forms of the ancient mansions 23 of this country, and of the happy manner 24 in which they harmonize with the forms 25 of nature. Why cannot these be taken as a cannot such these be 26 model and modern internal convenience 27 be confined within their external grace 28 and dignity? But, should expense to be But, should Expense to 29 avoided or difficulties to be overcome 30 prevent a close adherence to this model, may prevent 31 still it might be followed to a certain still, however, it might 32 degree in the style of architecture and in 33 the choice of situation, if the craving for the thirst craving for 34 prospect were mitigated by those 35 considerations of comfort, shelter, and 36 convenience, which used to be chiefly 37 sought after. But should an aversion to 38 old fashions unfortunately exist 39 accompanied with a desire to transplant 40 into the cold and stormy North, the 41 elegancies of a villa formed upon a model 42 taken from countries with a milder 43 climate, I will adduce a passage from an 44 English Poet, the divine Spenser, which 45 will shew in what manner such a plan 46 may be realized without injury to the 47 native beauty of these scenes. 48 49 “Into that forest farre they thence him led, 50 Where was their dwelling in a pleasant glade 51 With mountains round about environed, 52 And mighty woods which did the valley shade, 53 And like a stately theatre it made, 54 Spreading itself into a spacious plaine; 55 And in the midst a little river plaide 56 Emongst the pumy stones which seem’d to ’plaine 57 With gentle murmure that his course they did restraine. 58 59 Beside the same a dainty place there lay, 60 Planted with mirtle trees and laurels green, 61 In which the birds sang many a lovely lay 62 Of God’s high praise, and of their sweet loves teene, 63 As it an earthly paradise had beene; 64 In whose enclosed shadow there was pight 65 A fair pavilion, scarcely to be seen, 66 The which was all within most richly dight, 67 That greatest princes living it mote well delight.” 51 1 I have been treating of the erection of I have been treating of the erection of 2 houses or mansions suited to a grand and Houses or mansions suited to a grand and 3 beautiful region; and I have laid it down beautiful mountainous region; and I 4 as a position that they should be “not have laid it down as a position that they 5 obvious, nor obtrusive, but retired;” and should obvious, not nor obtrusive 6 the reasons for this, though they have reasons for this rule, though 7 been little adverted to, are evident. 8 Mountainous countries more frequently 9 and forcibly than others, remind us of the 10 power of the elements as it is exhibited in it is manifested exhibited in 11 winds, snows, and torrents, and 12 accordingly make the notion of exposure 13 very unpleasing; while shelter and 14 comfort are in proportion necessary and 15 acceptable. Far-winding vallies, which are Far-winding valleys which are 16 difficult of access, and our feelings of difficult of access, and the our feelings of 17 simplicity which are habitually connected simplicity which are habitually 18 with mountain retirements, prompt us to 19 turn from ostentation as a thing there 20 eminently unnatural and out of place. A 21 mansion amid such scenes can never have 22 sufficient dignity or interest to become 23 principal in the landscape and render the and to render 24 mountains, lakes, or torrents, by which it 25 may be surrounded, a subordinate part of 26 the view; nor are the grand features of the view; nor are the grand features of 27 nature to be absorbed by the puny efforts nature to be absorbed by the puny efforts 28 of human art. It is, I grant, easy to of human art. 29 conceive that an ancient castellated 30 mansion hanging over a precipice or building mansion 31 raised upon an island or the peninsula of 32 a lake, like that of Kilchurn Castle 33 near Loch Awe, may not want, whether upon near Loch 34 deserted or inhabited, that majesty which inhabited sufficient that majesty which 35 shall enable it to preside for a moment in shall enable it to preside 36 the spectator’s thoughts over the high 37 mountains among which it is 38 embosomed; but its titles are from 39 antiquity—a power which is readily a power which is readily 40 submitted to upon occasions as the 41 vicegerent of Nature: it is respected as 42 having owed its existence to the necessity 43 of things—as a monument of security in 44 times of disturbance and danger long 45 passed away—as a record of the pomp 46 and violence of passion, and a symbol of 47 the wisdom of law—it bears a 48 countenance of authority which is not 49 impaired by decay. 50 ↓ 51 52 "Child of loud-throated war, the mountain-stream 53 Roars in thy hearing; but thy hour of rest 54 Is come, and thou art silent in thy age !" MS. MS. 55 56 To such honours a modern edifice can 57 lay no claim; and the puny efforts of 58 elegance appear contemptible, when, 59 in such situations, they are obtruded in 60 rivalship with the sublimities of 61 Nature. But, towards the verge of a 62 district like this of which we are 63 treating, where the mountains subside 64 into hills of moderate elevation, or in 65 an undulating or flat country, 66 These honours render it worthy of its These honours render it worthy of its 67 situation; and to which of these honours situation; and to which of these honours 68 can a modern edifice pretend? Obtruding can a modern edifice pretend? Obtruding 69 itself in rivalry with the grandeur of itself in rivalry with the grandeur of 70 Nature, it only displays the presumption Nature, it only displays the presumption 71 and caprice of its individual founder, or and caprice of its individual founder, or 72 the class to which he belongs. But, the class to which he belongs. But, 73 in a flat or merely undulating country, in a flat or merely undulating country, 74 a Gentleman’s Mansion may with a gentleman’s mansion 75 propriety become a principal feature in 76 the landscape; and, itself being a work of 77 art, works and traces of artificial 78 ornament may without censure be 79 extended around it, as they will be 80 referred to the common centre, the 81 house; the right of which to impress 82 within certain limits a character of 83 obvious ornament will not be denied, 84 where there are no conspicuous or where there are no conspicuous or 85 commanding forms of Nature to dispute commanding 86 it or set it aside. Now to a want of the 87 perception of this difference, and to the 88 causes before assigned, may chiefly be 89 attributed the disfigurement which the 90 Country of the Lakes has undergone from 91 persons who may have built, demolished, 92 and planted, with full confidence that 93 every change and addition was or would 94 become an improvement. 52 1 The principle which ought to determine 2 the position, apparent size, and 3 architecture of a house, viz., that it should 4 be so constructed, and (if large) so much 5 of it hidden, as to admit of its being 6 gently incorporated with the scenery of incorporated into with the 7 Nature —should also determine its 8 colour. Sir Joshua Reynolds used to say 9 “if you would fix upon the best colour for 10 your house, turn up a stone, or pluck up 11 a handful of grass by the roots, and see 12 what is the colour of the soil where the 13 house is to stand, and let that be your 14 choice.” Of course the precept, given in this the precept 15 conversation, could not have been meant 16 to be taken literally. For example in Low 17 Furness, where the soil from its strong 18 impregnation with iron is universally of a 19 deep red, if this rule were strictly 20 followed, the house also must be of a 21 glaring red; in other places it must be of a 22 sullen black; which would only be adding 23 annoyance to annoyance. The rule 24 however, as a general guide, is good; and 25 in agricultural districts where large tracts 26 of soil are laid bare by the plough, 27 particularly if (the face of the country 28 being undulating) they are held up to 29 view, this rule, though not to be 30 implicitly adhered to, should never be 31 lost sight of, that is, the colour of the sight of, that is;—the colour 32 house ought, if possible, to have a cast or 33 shade of the colour of the soil. The 34 principle is that the house must 35 harmonize with the surrounding 36 landscape: accordingly, in mountainous 37 countries, with still more confidence may 38 it be said, “look at the rocks and those 39 parts of the mountains where the soil is 40 visible, and they will furnish a safe 41 general direction.” Nevertheless, it will general direction 42 often happen that the rocks may bear so 43 large a proportion to the rest of the 44 landscape, and may be of such a tone of 45 colour that the rule may not even here not admit even here of 46 admit of being implicitly followed. For 47 instance, the chief defect in the colouring 48 of the Country of the Lakes (which is 49 most strongly felt in the summer season) 50 is an over-prevalence of a bluish tint, 51 which the green of the herbage, the fern, 52 and the woods, does not sufficiently 53 counteract. This blue tint proceeds from This blue tint proceeds 54 the diffused water, and still more from from the diffused water, and still more 55 the rocks which the reader will remember from the rocks which the reader will 56 are generally of this colour. If a house remember are generally of this colour. 57 therefore should stand where this defect 58 prevails, I have no hesitation in saying 59 that the colour of the neighboring rocks 60 would not be the best that could be 61 chosen. A tint ought to be introduced 62 approaching nearer to those which, in the 63 technical language of painters, are called 64 warm: this, if happily selected, would not 65 disturb, but would animate the 66 landscape. How often do we see this 67 exemplified upon a small scale by the 68 native cottages, in cases where the glare of 69 white wash has been subdued by time and 70 enriched by weather-stains. No harshness 71 is then seen; but one of these cottages 72 thus coloured, will often form a central 73 point to a landscape by which the whole 74 shall be connected, and the influence of and an the influence 75 pleasure diffused over all the objects of objects that 76 which the picture is composed. Where compose the picture. But where 77 however the cold blue tint of the rocks is however the 78 animated by hues of the iron tinge, the enriched animated by the hues of the 79 colour cannot be too closely imitated; iron tinge 80 and it will be produced of itself by the 81 stones hewn from the adjoining quarry, 82 and by the mortar which may be 83 tempered with the most gravelly part of 84 the soil. But, should the mason object to But, should the mason object to this, as 85 this, as they will do, and insist upon the they will do, and insist upon the mortar 86 mortar being tempered by blue gravel being tempered by The pure blue gravel, 87 from the bed of the river, and say that the from the bed of the river, and say that the 88 house must be rough-cast, otherwise it is, however, more suitable to the 89 ↓ mason’s purpose, who will probably 90 insist also that the house must be 91 covered with rough-cast, otherwise it 92 cannot be kept dry, then the builder of cannot be kept dry, if this advice be 93 taste will set about contriving such means taken, then the builder 94 as may enable him to come the nearest to 95 the effect aimed at. 53 1 The supposed necessity of rough-cast to 2 keep out rain in houses not built of hewn 3 stone or brick, has tended greatly to 4 injure English landscape, and the 5 neighbourhood of these Lakes especially, 6 by furnishing such an apt occasion for 7 whitening buildings. I will therefore say a I will therefore say a 8 few words upon this subject; because few words upon this subject; because 9 many persons, not deficient in taste, are many persons, not deficient in taste, are 10 admirers of this colour for rural admirers of this That white should be a 11 residences. The reasons are manifold; favourite colour for rural residences is 12 ↓ natural for many reasons. The reasons 13 are manifold; first, as is obvious, the air of 14 first, as is obvious, the air of cleanliness The mere aspect of cleanliness and 15 and neatness which is thus given not only neatness which is thus 16 to an individual house, but, where the 17 practice is general, to the whole face of 18 the country; which moral associations are country, produces which moral 19 so powerful that, in the minds of many, associations are so that, in many minds, they 20 they take place of every other relating to take place of every other relating to such 21 such objects. But what has been already has already been objects all others. 22 said upon the subject of cottages must 23 have convinced men of feeling and 24 imagination, that a human habitation of human dwelling habitation of 25 the humblest class may be rendered more 26 deeply interesting to the affections, and 27 far more pleasing to the eye, by other 28 influences than by a sprightly tone of than by a sprightly 29 colour spread over its outside. I do not 30 however mean to deny that a small white 31 building, embowered in trees, may in 32 some situations be a delightful and 33 animating object —in no way injurious 34 to the landscape; but this only where it 35 sparkles from the midst of a thick shade, 36 and in rare and solitary instances; 37 especially if the country be in itself rich country be in itself 38 and pleasing and full of grand forms. On and abound with full of grand 39 the sides of bleak and desolate moors, 40 one is indeed thankful for the sight of we are one is indeed 41 white Cottages and white houses 42 plentifully scattered, where without these 43 perhaps every thing would be chearless: 44 this is said however with hesitation, and hesitation, and with a wilful sacrifice 45 in the sleep of some of the higher faculties in the sleep of some of the higher 46 of the mind. But I have certainly seen enjoyments faculties of the mind. 47 such buildings glittering at sunrise and in 48 wandering lights with no common 49 pleasure. The continental Traveller also 50 will remember that the Convents hanging 51 from the rocks of the Rhine, the Rhone, 52 the Danube, or among the Appenines or 53 the Mountains of Spain, are not looked at 54 with less complacency when, as is often 55 the case, they happen to be of a brilliant 56 white. But this is perhaps owing, in no 57 small degree, to the contrast of that lively 58 colour with the feeling of gloom colour with the feeling of gloom 59 associated with monastic life, and to the associated with of monastic life 60 general want of rural residences of smiling 61 and attractive appearance in those 62 countries. 54 1 The objections to white as a colour in 2 large spots or masses in landscape, 3 especially in a mountainous country, are 4 insurmountable. In nature it is scarcely In nature pure white is 5 ever found but in small objects, such as 6 flowers; or in those which are transitory, 7 as the clouds, foam of rivers, and snow. 8 Mr. Gilpin, who notices this, has also 9 recorded the just remark of Mr. Locke of 10 N—— that white destroys the gradations 11 of the distance, and therefore an object of 12 pure white can scarcely ever be managed 13 with good effect in landscape painting. 14 Five or six white houses, scattered over a 15 valley, by their obtrusiveness dot the 16 surface and divide it into triangles or 17 other mathematical figures which haunt figures haunting the eye, 18 the eye and disturb that repose which and disturbing that 19 might otherwise be perfect. I have seen a 20 single white house materially impair the 21 majesty of a mountain, cutting away by a 22 harsh separation the whole of the base whole of it’s the base 23 below the point on which the house 24 stood. Thus was the apparent size of the 25 mountain reduced not by the 26 interposition of another object in a 27 manner to call forth the imagination, 28 which will give more than the eye loses; 29 but what had been abstracted in this case 30 was left visible; and the mountain 31 appeared to take its beginning or to rise 32 from the line of the house instead of its 33 own natural base. But, if I may express 34 my own individual feeling, it is after 35 sunset at the coming on of twilight that 36 white objects are most to be complained 37 of. The solemnity and quietness of nature 38 at that time is always marred and often time are is always 39 destroyed by them. When the ground is 40 covered with snow, they are inoffensive; are of course inoffensive 41 and in moonshine they are always 42 pleasing —it is a tone of light with which 43 they accord; and the dimness of the scene 44 is enlivened by an object at once 45 conspicuous and chearful. I will conclude 46 this subject with noticing that the cold 47 slaty colour, which many persons who 48 have heard the white condemned have 49 adopted in its stead, must be disapproved 50 of for the reason already given. The 51 flaring yellow runs into the opposite 52 extreme, and is still more censurable. 53 Upon the whole, the safest colour for 54 general use is something between a cream 55 and a dust colour commonly called stone- 56 colour—there are among the Lakes 57 examples of this which need not be 58 pointed out. pointed out.* [Note added] 59 60 [New footnote] *A proper colouring of 61 houses is now becoming general. It is 62 best that the colouring material should 63 be mixed with the rough-cast, and not 64 laid on as a wash afterwards. 55 1 The principle which we have taken for The principle which we have taken as for 2 our guide, viz., that the house should be 3 so formed and of such apparent size and 4 colour as to admit of its being gently 5 incorporated with the scenery of nature, the works scenery of nature 6 should also be applied to the 7 management of the grounds and 8 plantations, and is here more urgently 9 needed; for it is from abuses in this 10 department, far more even than from the 11 introduction of exotics in architecture, (if 12 the phrase may be used) that this country 13 has suffered. Larch and fir plantations 14 have been spread every where, not merely spread every where, 15 with a view to profit, but in many 16 instances for the sake of ornament. To 17 those who plant for profit, and are 18 thrusting every other tree out of the way 19 to make room for their favourite the 20 Larch, I would utter first a regret that 21 they should have selected these lovely 22 vales for their vegetable manufactory, 23 when there is so much barren and 24 irreclaimable land in other parts of the land in the neighbouring moors, 25 Island which might have been had for and in other parts of the Island 26 this purpose at a far cheaper rate. And I 27 will also beg leave to represent to them 28 that they ought not to be carried away by 29 flattering promises from the speedy 30 growth of this tree; because, in rich soils 31 and sheltered situations, the wood, 32 though it thrives fast, is full of sap, and of 33 little value, and is likewise very subject to 34 ravage from the attacks of insects and 35 from blight. Accordingly in Scotland, 36 where planting is much better 37 understood, and carried on upon an 38 incomparably larger scale than among us, 39 good soil and sheltered situations are 40 appropriated to the oak, the ash, and 41 other native deciduous trees; and the other native deciduous trees 42 larch is now generally confined to barren 43 and exposed ground. There the plant, 44 which is a hardy one, is of slower growth; 45 much less liable to the injuries which I less liable to the injuries which I have 46 have mentioned; and the timber is of mentioned injury 47 better quality. But there are many whose But there are many, whose the 48 circumstances permit them, and whose circumstances of many permit them, and 49 taste leads them, to plant with little their whose taste 50 regard to profit; and others less wealthy and there are others 51 who have such a lively feeling of the 52 native beauty of these scenes, that they 53 are laudably not unwilling to make some 54 sacrifices to heighten it. Both these classes 55 of persons I would entreat to enquire of 56 themselves wherein that beauty which 57 they admire consists. They would then 58 see that, after the feeling has been 59 gratified which prompts us to gather 60 round our dwelling a few flowers and 61 shrubs which, from the circumstance of 62 their not being native, may, by their very 63 looks, remind us that they owe their 64 existence to our hands and their 65 prosperity to our care, they will see that, 66 after this natural desire has been provided 67 for, the course of all beyond has been 68 predetermined by the spirit of the place. 69 Before I proceed with this subject, I will Before I proceed with this subject, I will 70 prepare my way with a remark of general prepare my way with a remark of general 71 application by reminding those, who are application by reminding remind those 72 not satisfied with the restraint thus laid 73 upon them, that they are liable to a 74 charge of inconsistency when they are so 75 eager to change the face of that 76 country, the native attractions of which country, whose the native attractions of 77 by the act of erecting their habitations in which 78 it they have emphatically and so emphatically and 79 conspicuously acknowledged. And surely conspicuously acknowledged 80 there is not in this country a single spot not in this country a single 81 that would not have, if well managed, 82 sufficient dignity to support itself 83 unaided by the productions of other 84 climates or by elaborate decorations 85 which might be becoming elsewhere. 56 1 But to return; having adverted to the But to return; Having adverted to the 2 considerations which justify the feelings that considerations which justify 3 introduction of a few exotic plants, 4 provided they be confined almost to the 5 doors of the house, we may add, that a 6 transition should be contrived without 7 abruptness from these foreigners to the 8 rest of the shrubs, which ought to be of 9 the kinds scattered by nature through the 10 woods— holly, broom, wild rose, elder, 11 dogberry, white and black thorn, &c., 12 either these only, or such as are carefully 13 selected in consequence of their uniting their being united uniting 14 in form, and harmonizing in colour with 15 them, especially, with respect to colour, 16 when the tints are most diversified, as in 17 autumn and spring. The various sorts of 18 fruit and blossom-bearing trees usually 19 found in orchards, to which may be 20 added those of the woods; the wilding, woods,—namely the 21 black cherry tree, and wild cluster cherry 22 (here called heck-berry) may be happily 23 admitted as an intermediate link between 24 the shrubs and the forest trees; which last 25 ought almost entirely to be such as are 26 natives of the country, oak, ash, birch, country, oak, ash, birch, mountain ash, 27 mountain ash, &c. &c. Of the birch, one &c. &c. 28 of the most beautiful of the native trees, it 29 may be noticed, that, in dry and rocky 30 situations, it outstrips even the larch 31 which many persons are tempted to plant 32 merely on account of the speed of its 33 growth. Sycamore, and the Scotch fir Sycamore, and The Scotch fir is less 34 (which, when it has room to spread out attractive during its youth than any 35 its arms, is a noble tree) may be placed other plant; but, when full grown, if it 36 with advantage near the house; has had room to spread out its arms, it 37 ↓ becomes a noble tree; and, by those 38 who are disinterested enough to plant 39 for posterity, it may be placed along 40 with the sycamore near the house; for 41 for, from their massiveness, they unite from their massiveness, both these trees 42 well with buildings, and in some unite well 43 situations with rocks also; having in their 44 forms and apparent substances, the effect 45 of something intermediate betwixt the 46 immovableness and solidity of stone and 47 the sprays and foliage of the lighter trees. 48 If these general rules be just, what shall 49 we say to whole acres of artificial 50 shrubbery and exotic trees among rocks 51 and dashing torrents with their own wild 52 wood in sight—where we have the whole 53 contents of the nurseryman’s catalogue 54 jumbled together—colour at war with 55 colour, and form with form—among the 56 most peaceful subjects of nature’s 57 kingdom every where discord, distraction, 58 and bewilderment! But this deformity, 59 bad as it is, is not so obtrusive as the 60 small patches and large tracts of larch 61 plantations which are over-running the 62 hillsides. To justify our condemnation of 63 these, let us again recur to nature. The 64 process by which she forms woods and 65 forests, is as follows. Seeds are scattered 66 indiscriminately by winds, brought by 67 waters, and dropped by birds. They 68 perish or produce, according as the soil the soil and situation 69 upon which they fall is suited to them: upon which they fall are is suited 70 and under the same dependence the 71 seedling or sucker, if not cropped by 72 animals, animals, (which Nature is often careful 73 ↓ to prevent by fencing it about with 74 brambles or other prickly shrubs) 75 thrives, and the tree grows, sometimes thrives 76 single, taking its own shape without 77 constraint, but for the most part being part being 78 compelled to conform itself to some law 79 imposed upon it by its neighbours. From 80 low and sheltered places vegetation travels 81 upwards to the more exposed; and the 82 young plants are protected, and to a 83 certain degree fashioned, by those which 84 have preceded them. The continuous 85 mass of foliage which would thus be would be thus 86 produced is broken by rocks or by glades 87 or open places where the brouzing of 88 animals has prevented the growth of 89 wood. As vegetation ascends, the winds 90 begin also to bear their part in moulding 91 the forms of the trees; but, thus mutually 92 protected, trees, though not of the 93 hardiest kind, are enabled to climb high 94 up the mountains. Gradually however, by 95 the nature of the ground and by the quality nature of the ground 96 increasing exposure, a stop is put to their 97 ascent; the hardy trees only are left; these 98 also, by little and little, give way; and a 99 wild and irregular boundary is 100 established, which, while it is graceful in established, which, while it is graceful in 101 its outline, is never contemplated without its outline, and is never 102 some feeling more or less distinct of the 103 powers of nature by which it has been it is has been 104 imposed. 57 1 Contrast the liberty and law under which Contrast the liberty that encourages, 2 this is carried on, as a joint work of and the law under which that is carried 3 nature and time, with the disheartening on, as a that limits, this joint work 4 necessities, restrictions, and 5 disadvantages, under which the artificial 6 planter must proceed, even he whom 7 long observation and fine feeling have 8 best qualified to tread in the path of qualified to tread in the path of 9 nature. In the first place his trees, nature for his task. 10 however well chosen and adapted to their 11 several situations, must generally all start generally start all 12 at the same time; and this circumstance this circumstance necessity 13 would of itself prevent that fine 14 connection of parts, that sympathy and 15 organization, if I may so express myself, 16 which pervades the whole of a natural 17 wood, and which appears to the eye in its and which appears 18 single trees, its masses of foliage, and their 19 various colours when they are held up to 20 view on the side of a mountain; or, when 21 spread over a valley, they are looked 22 down upon from an eminence. It is then It is therefore then 23 impossible under any circumstances for 24 the artificial planter to rival the beauty of 25 nature. But a moment’s thought will 26 shew that, if ten thousand of this spiky 27 tree, the larch, are stuck in at once upon 28 the side of a hill, they can grow up into 29 nothing but deformity; that, while they 30 are suffered to stand, an absolute and stand, an absolute and 31 insurmountable obstacle will prevent the insurmountable obstacle will prevent the 32 realization of any of those appearances realization of we shall look in vain for 33 which we have described as the chief any of those appearances which we have 34 cause of the beauty of a natural wood. described as are the chief sources cause of 35 the beauty of in a natural wood. 58 1 It must be acknowledged that the larch, 2 till it has outgrown the size of a shrub, 3 has, when looked at singly, some elegance shows has, when 4 in its form and appearance, especially in in its form 5 spring when decorated by the pink tassels spring, when decorated, as it then is, by 6 of its blossoms; but as a tree, it is less than 7 any other pleasing; its branches (for 8 boughs it has none) have no variety in the 9 youth of the tree, and little dignity even 10 when it attains its full growth; leaves it 11 cannot be said to have; consequently 12 neither affords shade, nor shelter. In 13 spring it becomes green long before the spring it the larch becomes 14 native trees; and its green is so peculiar 15 and vivid, that, finding nothing to 16 harmonize with it, it makes a speck and it, wherever it comes forth, a 17 deformity in the landscape. In summer disagreeable speck and deformity in the 18 when all other trees are in their pride, it is landscape is produced. In summer when 19 of a dingy lifeless hue, and in winter all other trees are in their pride, it is of a 20 appears absolutely dead. In this respect it dingy lifeless hue; in autumn of a 21 is lamentably distinguished from every spiritless unvaried yellow, and in winter 22 other tree of the forest. it appears absolutely dead. In this respect 23 ↓ it is still more lamentably distinguished 24 from every other deciduous tree of the 25 forest, for they seem only to sleep, but 26 the larch appears absolutely dead. 27 If an attempt be made to mingle thickets, If an attempt 28 or a certain proportion of other forest 29 trees, with the larch, — its horizontal 30 branches intolerantly cut them down as 31 with a scythe or force them to spindle up 32 to keep pace with it. The spike, in which The terminating spike, in which it 33 it terminates, renders it impossible, when terminates, renders it impossible, that the 34 it is planted in numbers, that the several several trees, where planted in numbers, 35 trees should ever blend together so as to should ever blend 36 form a mass or masses of wood. Add 37 thousands to tens of thousands, and the 38 appearance is still the same—a collection 39 of separate individual trees which trees, obstinately 40 obstinately present themselves as such; presenting themselves 41 and, from whatever point they are looked and which, from 42 at, if but seen, may be counted upon the 43 fingers. Sunshine or shadow has little 44 power to adorn the surface of such a 45 wood; and the trees not carrying up their 46 heads, the wind produces among them no wind raises produces among 47 majestic undulations. It is indeed, true 48 that, in countries where the larch is a 49 native, and where without interruption it 50 may sweep from valley to valley and from 51 hill to hill, a sublime image may be 52 produced by such a forest in the same 53 manner as by one composed of any other 54 single tree to the spreading of which no 55 limits can be assigned. For sublimity will 56 never be wanting, where the sense of 57 innumerable multitude is lost in, and 58 alternates with, that of intense unity; and 59 to the ready perception of this effect 60 similarity and almost identity of 61 individual form and monotony of colour 62 contribute. But this feeling is confined to 63 the native immeasurable forest; no 64 artificial plantation can give it. 59 1 The foregoing observations will, I hope, 2 (as nothing has been condemned or 3 recommended without a substantial 4 reason) have some influence upon those 5 who plant for ornament mainly. To for ornament merely mainly. To 6 those, who plant for profit, I have already those, who such as plant 7 spoken. Let me then entreat that the 8 native deciduous trees may be left in 9 complete possession of the lower ground; 10 and that the plantations of larch, if that the plantations 11 introduced at all, may be confined to the the highest 12 higher and more barren tracts. and most higher and more barren 13 Interposition of rocks would there break 14 the dreary uniformity of which we have 15 been complaining; and the winds would 16 take hold of the trees, and imprint upon 17 their shapes a wildness congenial to their 18 situation. 60 1 Having determined what kinds of trees 2 must be wholly rejected, or at least very 3 sparingly used by those who are unwilling 4 to disfigure the country; and having 5 shewn what kinds ought to be chosen; I 6 should have given, if I had not already if my limits had not already 7 overstepped my limits, a few practical been overstepped 8 rules for the manner in which trees ought 9 to be disposed in planting. But to this 10 subject I should attach little importance, 11 if I could succeed in banishing such trees 12 as introduce deformity, and could prevail 13 upon the Proprietor to confine himself 14 either to those which form the native those found in which form the native 15 woods, or to such as accord with them. 16 This is indeed the main point; for, much 17 as these scenes have been injured by what 18 has been taken from them —buildings, 19 trees and woods, either through 20 negligence, necessity, avarice, or caprice 21 —it is not these removals, but the harsh not the these removals 22 additions that have been made, which are 23 the worst grievance—a standing and 24 unavoidable annoyance. Often have I felt 25 this distinction with mingled satisfaction 26 and regret; for if no positive deformity or 27 discordance be substituted or 28 superinduced, such is the benignity of 29 nature that, take away from her beauty 30 after beauty and ornament after 31 ornament, her appearance cannot 32 be lastingly marred;—the scars, if any be be lastingly marred 33 left, will gradually disappear before a 34 healing spirit; and what remains will still 35 be soothing and pleasing.—“Many “Many 36 hearts;” says a living Poet speaking of a hearts;” says a living Poet speaking of a 37 noble wood which had been felled in an noble wood which had been felled in an 38 interesting situation; interesting situation; 39 40 “many hearts deplored 41 The fate of those old trees; and oft with pain 42 The traveller at this day will stop and gaze 43 On wrongs which nature scarcely seems to heed: 44 For shelter’d places, bosoms, nooks, and bays, 45 And the pure mountains, and the gentle Tweed, 46 And the green silent pastures yet remain. 61 1 There are few ancient woods left in this 2 part of England upon which such 3 indiscriminate ravage could now be ravage as is here “deplored” could 4 committed. But out of the numerous 5 copses fine woods might in time be 6 raised, probably without any sacrifice of without any sacrifice 7 profit, by leaving at the periodical fellings 8 a due proportion of the healthiest trees to 9 grow up into timber.—This plan has 10 fortunately, in many instances, been 11 adopted; and they, who have set the 12 example, are entitled to the thanks of all 13 persons of taste. As to the management of 14 planting with reasonable attention to 15 ornament, let the images of nature be 16 your guide, and the whole secret lurks in 17 a few words; thickets or underwoods— 18 single trees—trees clustered or in 19 groups—groves—unbroken woods, but 20 with varied masses of foliage—glades— 21 invisible or winding boundaries—in 22 rocky districts a seemly proportion of 23 rock left wholly bare, and other parts half 24 hidden—disagreeable objects concealed, 25 and formal lines broken—trees climbing 26 up to the horizon, and in some places 27 ascending from its sharp edge in which 28 they are rooted, with the whole body of 29 the tree appearing to stand in the clear 30 sky—in other parts woods surmounted 31 by rocks utterly bare and naked, which 32 add to the sense of height as if vegetation 33 could not thither be carried, and impress 34 a feeling of duration, power of resistance, 35 and security from change. 62 1 I have been induced to speak thus at The author has I have been induced 2 length with a wish to preserve the native length with by a wish 3 beauty of this delightful district, because 4 still farther changes in its appearance 5 must inevitably follow, from the change 6 of inhabitants and owners which is 7 rapidly taking place.—About the same 8 time that strangers began to be attracted 9 to the country, and to feel a wish to settle a desire wish to settle 10 in it, the difficulty, which would have 11 stood in the way of their procuring 12 situations, was lessened by an unfortunate 13 alteration in the circumstances of the 14 native Peasantry, proceeding from a cause 15 which then began to operate, and is now 16 felt in every house. The family of each 17 man, whether estatesman or farmer, 18 formerly had a twofold support; first, the 19 produce of his lands and flocks; and 20 secondly the profit which was drawn profit which was drawn 21 from the employment of the women and 22 children, as manufacturers; spinning their 23 own wool in their own houses 24 (which was done chiefly in the winter (work which was chiefly done in 25 season) and carrying it to market for sale. 26 Hence, however numerous the children, 27 the income of the family kept pace with 28 its increase. But, by the invention and 29 universal application of machinery, this 30 second resource has been almost wholly been almost wholly been wholly cut off 31 cut off; the gains being so far reduced, as 32 not to be sought after but by a few aged 33 persons disabled from other employment. 34 Doubtless the invention of machinery has 35 not been to these people a pure loss; for 36 the profits arising from home- 37 manufactures operated as a strong 38 temptation to choose that mode of labour 39 in neglect of husbandry. They also 40 participate in the general benefit which 41 the Island has derived from the increased 42 value of the produce of land, brought 43 about by the establishment of 44 manufactories, and in the consequent 45 quickening of agricultural industry. But 46 this is far from making them amends; and 47 now, that home-manufactures are nearly 48 done away, though the women and 49 children might at many seasons of the 50 year employ themselves with advantage in 51 the fields beyond what they are 52 accustomed to do, yet still all possible 53 exertion in this way cannot be rationally 54 expected from persons whose agricultural 55 knowledge is so confined, and above all 56 where there must necessarily be so small a 57 capital. The consequence, then, is— 58 that, farmers being no longer able to that, proprietors and farmers being 59 maintain themselves upon small farms, 60 several are united into one, and the 61 buildings go to decay or are destroyed; 62 and that the lands of the estatesmen being 63 mortgaged and the owners constrained to 64 part with them, they fall into the hands 65 of wealthy purchasers, who in like 66 manner unite and consolidate; and if they 67 wish to become residents, erect new 68 mansions out of the ruins of the ancient 69 cottages whose little enclosures, with all 70 the wild graces which grew out of them 71 and around them, disappear. The feudal and around them, disappear. The feudal 72 tenure of these estates has indeed done tenure under which the estates are held 73 something towards checking this influx of has indeed 74 new settlers; but so strong is the 75 inclination that these galling restraints are 76 endured; and it is probable that in a few 77 years the country of the Lakes will fall country on the margin of the Lakes 78 almost entirely into the possession of 79 Gentry, either strangers or natives. It is 80 then much to be wished, that a better 81 taste should prevail among these new 82 proprietors; and, as they cannot be 83 expected to leave things to themselves, 84 that skill and knowledge should prevent 85 unnecessary deviations from that path of 86 simplicity and beauty in which, without beauty along in which 87 design and unconsciously, their humble 88 predecessors have moved. In this wish the 89 author will be joined by persons of pure 90 taste throughout the whole Island, who 91 by their visits, often repeated, to the 92 Lakes to the North of England, testify Lakes in to the North 93 that they deem the district a sort of 94 national property, in which every man 95 has a right and interest who has an eye to 96 perceive and a heart to enjoy. 63 1 The Writer may now express a hope that Para. omitted after first edition 2 the end, which was proposed in the 3 commencement of this Introduction, has 4 not been wholly unattained; and that 5 there is no impropriety in connecting 6 these latter remarks with the Etchings 7 now offered to the public. For it is certain 8 that, if the evil complained of should 9 continue to spread, these Vales, 10 notwithstanding their lakes, rivers, 11 torrents, and surrounding rocks and 12 mountains, will lose their chief 13 recommendation for the eye of the 14 painter and the man of imagination and 15 feeling. And, upon the present occasion, 16 the Artist is bound to acknowledge that, 17 if the fruit of his labours have any value, 18 it is owing entirely to the models which 19 he has had before him, in a country 20 which retained till lately an appearance 21 unimpaired of MAN and NATURE 22 animated, as it were, by one spirit for the production of beauty, grace, and 23 grandeur. 24 25 THE END 26 SECTION I. OF THE BEST TIME [New untitled section in 2nd ed.] MISCELLANEOUS FOR VISITING THE LAKES. OBSERVATIONS. 64 1 ↓ A few words may not improperly be A few words may not improperly be 2 annexed, with an especial view to annexed, with an especial view to 3 promote the enjoyment of the Tourist. promote the enjoyment of the Tourist. 4 And first, in respect to the Time when And first, in respect to the Time when 5 this Country can be seen to most this Country can be seen to most 6 advantage. advantage. 7 In the Introduction to this Work a survey ↓ 8 has been given of the face of the country, 9 in which our English Lakes are situated 10 which will not perhaps prove 11 unserviceable even to Natives and 12 Residents, however well acquainted with 13 its appearance; as it will probably direct 14 their attention to some objects which 15 they have overlooked, and will exhibit 16 others under relations of which they have 17 been unconscious. I will now address 18 myself more particularly to the Stranger 19 and the Traveller; and, without 20 attempting to give a formal Tour through 21 the country, and without binding myself 22 servilely to accompany the Etchings, I 23 will attach to the Work such directions, 24 descriptions, and remarks, as I hope will 25 confer an additional interest upon the 26 Views, and will also be of use to a person 27 preparing for a first visit to these scenes, 28 and during his progress through them.— [Section begins] 29 To begin then with the time which he Mr. West, in his well-known Guide to 30 ought to choose:— the Lakes, recommends, as the best 31 Mr. West recommends the interval from Mr. West, in his well-known Guide to season for visiting this country, the 32 the beginning of June to the end of the Lakes, recommends interval 33 August; and the two latter months, being 34 a season of vacation and leisure, are those leisure, it is almost exclusively in season time of vacation and leisure, it is 35 which are generally selected; but they are these that strangers visit the Country. almost exclusively in these that strangers 36 by no means the best; for the But that season is by no means the best; resort hither visit the Country. 37 disadvantages belonging to them for the disadvantages belonging to them 38 are many and great. The principal are, are many and great. The principal are, 39 the monotonous green of the Mountains the monotonous green of the Mountains 40 and of the Woods, and the embrowned and of the Woods, and the embrowned 41 colour of the grass in the Vallies. colour of the grass in the Vallies. there is there is 42 ↓ a want of variety in the colouring of a want of variety in the colouring 43 the mountains and woods; which, woods; which 44 unless where they are diversified by 45 rocks, are of a monotonous green; and, rocks, is are of a monotonous too 46 as a large portion of the Valleys is unvaried a green 47 allotted to hay-grass, a want of variety hay-grass, a some want 48 is found there also. This however is 49 variegated and The meadows, however, 50 This however is variegated and enlivened are sufficiently enlivened after hay- 51 after hay-making begins, which is much making 52 later than in the southern parts of the southern part parts of 53 Island. An objection which will be more A stronger objection is 54 strongly felt, is rainy weather, which rainy weather, setting in often at this setting in sometimes often at 55 often sets in at this period with a vigour, period with a vigour, and continuing 56 and continues with a perseverance, that 57 may remind the disappointed and 58 dejected Traveller of the wet season traveller of the wet season 59 between the Tropics; or of those deluges between the Tropics; or of those deluges 60 of rain which fall among the Abyssinian 61 Mountains for the annual supply of the 62 Nile. Hence, as a very large majority of Hence, as a very large majority of 63 strangers visit the Lakes at this season, the strangers visit the Lakes at this season, the 64 country labours under the ill repute of country labours under the ill repute of 65 being scarcely ever free from rain.—The being scarcely ever free from rain.— 66 months of September and October, 67 (particularly October) are generally 68 attended with much finer weather; and 69 the scenery is then, beyond comparison, 70 more diversified, more splendid and 71 beautiful: but, on the other hand, short 72 days prevent long excursions, and sharp 73 and chill gales are unfavorable to parties 74 of pleasure out of doors. Nevertheless the Nevertheless, the 75 beauty of this country in Autumn so far beauty of this country in Autumn so far 76 surpasses that of Midsummer, that to the surpasses that of Midsummer, that to the 77 sincere admirer of Nature, who is in good sincere 78 health and spirits and at liberty to make a 79 choice, the six weeks following the first of 80 September may be recommended in 81 preference to July and August.—For 82 there is no inconvenience arising from the 83 Season which to such a person would not 84 be amply recompensed by the Autumnal amply compensated recompensed by 85 appearance of any of the more retired 86 Vallies, into which discordant plantations 87 and unsuitable buildings have not yet 88 found entrance.—In such spots at this 89 season, there is an admirable and admirable and 90 affecting compass and proportion of affecting compass 91 natural harmony in form and colour, harmony in form and colour 92 through the whole scale of objects; in the 93 tender green of the after-grass upon the 94 meadows interspersed with islands of grey 95 or mossy rocks crowned by shrubs and 96 trees; in the irregular inclosures of 97 standing corn or stubble-fields in like 98 manner broken; in the mountain-sides 99 glowing with fern of divers colours; in the 100 calm blue Lakes or River-pools; and in Lakes and or River-pools 101 the foliage of the trees through all the 102 tints of Autumn, from the pale and 103 brilliant yellow of the birch and ash to 104 the deep greens of the unfaded oak and 105 the alder, and of the ivy upon the rocks, the alder 106 the trees, and the cottages. Yet as most upon the trees 107 travellers are either stinted or stint 108 themselves for time, I would recommend for time, I would recommend 109 the space between the middle or last week the space 110 in May and the middle or last week of 111 June as affording the best combination of June, may be pointed out as affording 112 long days, fine weather, and variety of 113 impressions. Few of the native trees are 114 indeed then in full leaf, but for whatever indeed then 115 may be wanting in depth of shade, far shade, far 116 more than an equivalent will be found in 117 the diversity of foliage, and the blossoms foliage, in the blossoms 118 of the fruit- and berry-bearing Trees 119 which abound in the woods, and in the 120 golden flowers of the broom and other 121 shrubs, with which many of the 122 copses are variegated. In those woods, copses are interveined variegated. 123 also, and on those mountain-sides which 124 have a northern aspect, and in the deep 125 dells, many of the earlier spring-flowers the earlier spring-flowers 126 still linger; while the open and sunny 127 places are stocked with the flowers of 128 approaching summer. And, besides, is not 129 an exquisite pleasure still untasted by him 130 who has not heard the choir of Linnets 131 and Thrushes chaunting their love-songs 132 in the copses, woods, and hedge-rows, of 133 a mountainous country; safe from the 134 birds of prey, which build in the 135 inaccessible crags, and are at all hours 136 seen or heard wheeling about in the air? 137 The number of those formidable 138 Creatures is the cause why in the narrow is probably the cause 139 vallies there are no sky-larks; as the 140 Destroyer would be enabled to dart upon 141 them from the near and surrounding 142 crags, before they could descend to their 143 ground nests, for protection. Neither are Neither are 144 Nightingales here to be heard; but almost Nightingales here to be heard It is not 145 all the other tribes of our English warblers often that Nightingales resort to these 146 are numerous; and their notes, when Vales; but almost 147 listened to by the side of broad still 148 waters, or when heard in unison with the 149 murmuring of mountain brooks, have mountain-brooks, have 150 much more power over the heart, and the much more power over the heart, and the 151 imagination than in other places. imagination than in other places.—the 152 ↓ compass of their power enlarged 153 —There is also an imaginative influence accordingly. There is 154 in the voice of the Cuckoo, when that 155 voice has taken possession of a deep 156 mountain Valley, which is very different 157 from any thing which can be excited by valley, which is very 158 the same sound in a flat country. Nor 159 must I omit a circumstance which here 160 renders the close of Spring especially must a circumstance be omitted 161 interesting; I mean the practice of 162 bringing down the Ewes from the 163 Mountains, to yean in the Vallies and 164 enclosed grounds.—The springing 165 herbage being thus cropped, that first The herbage 166 tender and emerald green of the season, being thus cropped as it springs, that first 167 which would otherwise last little more tender and emerald green 168 than a fortnight, is prolonged in the otherwise have lasted last little 169 pastures and meadows for many weeks; 170 while they are farther enlivened by the 171 multitude of lambs bleating and skipping 172 about; which, as they gather strength, are 173 turned out upon the open mountains, about; which. These sportive creatures, 174 and with their slender limbs, their snow as they 175 white colour, and their wild and light 176 motions, beautifully accord or contrast 177 with the lawns and rocks, upon and 178 among which they must now begin to rocks and lawns, upon and 179 seek their food. But, what is of most among which 180 consequence, the Traveller at this season But, what is of most 181 would be almost sure of having fine consequence, the Traveller at this season 182 weather.—The opinion which I have would be almost sure of having fine 183 given concerning the comparative weather.—The opinion which I have 184 advantages of the different times for given concerning the comparative 185 visiting these Lakes, is founded upon a advantages of the different times for 186 long acquaintance with the Country, and visiting these Lakes, is founded upon a 187 an intimate knowledge of its appearance long acquaintance with the Country, and 188 at all seasons. an intimate knowledge of its appearance 189 ↓ at all seasons. And last, but not least, 190 at this time the traveller will be 191 sure of room and comfortable 192 accommodation, even in the smaller 193 But, I am aware that few of those, who inns. But, I am aware that few of those, 194 may be satisfied with the reasons, by who may be inclined to profit by this 195 which this opinion is supported, will be recommendation satisfied with the 196 able to profit from what has been said; as reasons, by which this opinion is 197 the time and manner of an excursion of supported, will be able to do so, profit 198 this kind are mostly regulated by from what has been said; as the time 199 circumstances which prevent an entire kind is are mostly 200 freedom of choice. It will therefore be 201 more pleasant to me to observe that, 202 though the months of July and August pleasant to me to 203 are liable to the objections which have 204 been mentioned, yet it not unfrequently to many the objections which have 205 happens that the weather, at this time, is been mentioned yet it often not unfrequently 206 not more wet or stormy than they, who 207 are really capable of enjoying the sublime wet and or stormy 208 forms of Nature in their height of 209 sublimity, would desire. For no Traveller, in their utmost height of 210 provided he is in good health and with 211 any command of time, would have a just he be is in good 212 privilege to visit such scenes, if he could 213 grudge the price of a little confinement 214 among them or interruption in his 215 journey from the sight or sound of a 216 storm coming-on or clearing-away: and journey for from the sight 217 he would congratulate himself upon the clearing-away: and 218 bold bursts of sunshine, the descending he would. Insensible must he be who 219 vapours, and wandering lights and would not congratulate 220 shadows, the invigorated torrents and vapours, and wandering lights and 221 waterfalls, with which broken weather, in shadows, and the 222 a mountainous region, is accompanied.— 223 At such a time the monotony of 224 midsummer colouring, and the want of At such a time there is no cause to 225 variety caused by this, and by the glaring complain, either of the monotony of 226 atmosphere of long, cloudless and hot midsummer colouring, and the want of 227 days, is wholly removed. variety caused by this, and by or the 228 glaring atmosphere of long, cloudless, 229 and hot days. is wholly removed. 65 1 It is obvious that the point, from which a [Resumes at para. 84 below] 2 Stranger should begin this Tour, and the 3 order in which it will be convenient to 4 him to see the different Vales will depend 5 upon this circumstance; viz: from what 6 quarter of the Island he comes. If from 7 Scotland, or by the way of Stainmoor, it 8 will suit him to start from Penrith, taking 9 the scenery of Lowther in his way to 10 Hawes-water. He will next visit 11 Ullswater, &c. reversing the order which 12 I shall point out as being in itself the best. 13 Mr. West has judiciously directed those 14 to whom it is convenient to proceed from 15 Lancaster over the sands to take Furness 16 Abbey in their way, if so inclined; and 17 then to advance by the Lake of Coniston. 18 This is unquestionably the most 19 favourable approach. The beautiful Lake 20 of Coniston will thus be traced upwards 21 from its outlet, the only way in which it 22 can be seen, for the first time, without an 23 entire yielding up of its most delightful 24 appearances. And further, the Stranger, 25 from the moment he sets his foot upon 26 the Sands, seems to leave the turmoil and 27 the traffic of the world behind him; and 28 crossing the majestic Plain from which 29 the Sea has retired, he beholds, rising 30 apparently from its base, that cluster of 31 Mountains, among the recesses of which 32 he is going to wander, and into which, by 33 the Vale of Coniston, he is gradually and 34 peacefully introduced. The Lake and Vale 35 of Coniston, approached in this manner, 36 improve in appearance with every step. 37 And I may here make this general remark, 38 which, indeed the Reader may have 39 deduced from the representation of the 40 Country, given in the Introduction, that, 41 wherever it is possible, these Lakes and 42 Vallies should be approached from the 43 foot; otherwise most things will come 44 upon the Spectator to great disadvantage. 45 This general rule applies, though not with 46 equal force to all the Lakes, with the 47 single exception of Lowes-water, which, 48 lying in a direction opposite to the rest, 49 has its most favourable aspects 50 determined accordingly. 66 1 At the head of Coniston close to the 2 water side is a small and comfortable Inn, 3 which I would advise the Traveller, who 4 is not part of a large company, and who 5 does not look for a parade of 6 accommodation, to make his 7 headquarters for two days. The first of 8 these days, if the weather permit, may be 9 agreeably passed in an excursion to the 10 Vale of Duddon, or Donnerdale, as part 11 of it is called, and which name may with 12 propriety be given to the whole. It lies 13 over the high hill which bounds the Vale 14 of Coniston on the West. This Valley is 15 very rarely visited; but I recommend it 16 with confidence to the notice of the 17 Traveller of taste and feeling. It will be 18 best approached by a road, ascending 19 from near the church of Coniston, which 20 leads to that part of Donnerdale called 21 Seathwaite. The road is so long and steep 22 that the Traveller will be obliged to lead 23 his horse a considerable part of it. The 24 ascent and descent cannot I think be less 25 than five miles; but, nothing can be 26 found more beautiful than the scene, into 27 which he will be received at the bottom 28 of the hill on the other side. This little 29 circular Valley is a collateral 30 compartment of the long winding Vale, 31 through which flows the stream of 32 Duddon; and its Brook finds its way to 33 the River. Advancing, you will come to 34 the lowly Chapel of Seathwaite, and a 35 field or two beyond, is a Farm-house, 36 where, though there be no sign-board, or 37 outward mark of an Inn, the Traveller 38 who can content himself with homely 39 diet may be accommodated.—Having 40 satisfied himself with strolling about 41 Seathwaite, he will proceed down 42 Donnerdale to Ulpha Kirk; and from this 43 Churchyard he will have as grand a 44 combination of mountain lines and forms 45 as perhaps this country furnishes. The 46 whole scene is inspirited by the sound 47 and sight of the River rolling immediately 48 below the steep ground upon the top of 49 which the Church stands. From Ulpha 50 Kirk proceed down the Vale towards 51 Broughton. The same character of 52 mingled wildness and cultivation is still 53 preserved. Rocky grounds, which must 54 for ever forbid the entrance of the 55 plough, here and there, interrupt the 56 cultivation; and in part or wholly fill up 57 the bottom or sides of the Vale.—This 58 beautiful Vale does not gradually 59 disappear in a flat Plain, but terminates 60 abruptly in a prospect of the Sands of 61 Duddon, and of the Irish Sea. These are 62 seen in conjunction with its River, and 63 deep recesses of wood. On this account, 64 and for the sake of descending upon 65 Seathwaite so advantageously, I have 66 recommended in opposition to the 67 general rule, that it should be approached 68 from the upper part, rather than from its 69 outlet. From Broughton return to 70 Coniston by the nearest road. The 71 morning of the next day may be 72 employed in sailing upon, and looking 73 about the higher part of the Lake, and in 74 strolling upon its Banks; and the other 75 half in an excursion to the Valley of 76 Yewdale (a branch of the Vale of 77 Coniston) and round the sequestered 78 Valley of Tilberthwaite, which may be 79 considered as a remoter apartment of the 80 Valley of Yewdale. This excursion may be 81 about five miles, and may be taken either 82 on foot or horseback; but not in a 83 carriage. From the Valley of Yewdale 84 having mounted to that of Tilberthwaite, 85 with the Brook upon the right hand, 86 pursue the road till it leads to the furthest 87 of two Cottages; there, ask the way 88 through the fields to an house called 89 Holm-ground. If, on horseback, alight 90 there; and from a rocky and woody hill, 91 behind the house you will look down 92 upon this wild, beautiful, and singularly 93 secluded Valley. From Holm-ground 94 return to the Inn at Coniston. Next day 95 proceed to Hawkshead; and thence by the 96 side of Estwaite looking back a little while 97 after the road has left the Lake side upon 98 a fine view (which will be found among 99 these Etchings) of the Lake of Estwaite. 100 Thence, through the two Villages of 101 Sawrey, you come to the Ferry-house 102 upon Windermere where are good 103 accommodations for the night. 67 1 The Tourist has now reached 2 Windermere, and has been introduced in 3 his road to some sequestered spots not 4 exemplified in these Etchings, but, which, 5 if he wishes to have a complete 6 knowledge of the various features of this 7 Country, he will be glad to have visited. 8 Every thing that is of consequence has 9 been taken in its best order, except that 10 the first burst of the Vale of Windermere, 11 though very interesting from this 12 approach, is much inferior to that which 13 would have come upon him had he 14 descended by the road from Kendal. 15 Before the Traveller, whom I have thus 16 far accompanied, enters the Peninsula, at 17 the extremity of which the Ferry House 18 stands, it will be adviseable to ascend to a 19 Pleasure-house belonging to J.C. 20 Curwen, Esq. which he will see upon the 21 side of the rocks on his left hand.—There 22 is a gate, and a person, attending at a 23 little Lodge, or Cot adjoining, who will 24 conduct him. From this point he will 25 look down upon the cluster of Islands in 26 the central part of the Lake, upon 27 Bowness, Rayrigg, and the Mountains of 28 Troutbeck; and will have a prospect of 29 the lower division of this expanse of water 30 to its extremity. The upper part is 31 hidden. The Pleasure house is happily 32 situated, and is well in its kind, but, 33 without intending any harsh reflections 34 on the contriver, from whom it was 35 purchased by its present Proprietor, it 36 may be said that he, who remembers the 37 spot on which this building stands, and 38 the immediate surrounding grounds as 39 they were less than thirty years ago, will 40 sigh for the coming of that day when Art, 41 through every rank of society, shall be 42 taught to have more reverence for Nature. 43 This scene is, in its natural constitution, 44 far too beautiful to require any exotic or 45 obtrusive embellishments, either of 46 planting or architecture. With 47 Winandermere a large majority of 48 Visitants begin this Tour. The ordinary 49 course is from Kendal, by the nearest 50 road to Bowness; but I would 51 recommend it to all persons, whatever 52 may be their mode of conveyance, or 53 however large their party, when they shall 54 have reached the Turnpike-house, about 55 a mile beyond Kendal, not to take, as is 56 commonly done, the road which leads 57 directly to Bowness; but that through 58 Stavely: inasmuch as the break of 59 prospect from Orrest-head, where the 60 road brings you to the first sight of 61 Windermere, in itself one of the finest 62 things in the Tour, is much grander than 63 as it appears from the other road. This for 64 two reasons; first, that you are between 65 two and three miles nearer the sublime 66 mountains and large expanse of water at 67 the head of the Lake; and secondly that 68 the new houses and plantations, and the 69 number of trim and artificial objects with 70 which the neighbourhood of Bowness is 71 crouded, are so far removed from this 72 point, as not to be individually offensive, 73 as they melt into the general mass of the 74 Landscape. At the bottom of the hill, you 75 find a Guide-post; and, turning, abruptly 76 to the left, will immediately come in sight 77 of the same general prospect which has 78 been seen above, from a point, which, as 79 it is comparatively low, necessarily 80 changes the character of the scene. 81 Thence on, through the close woods of 82 Rayrigg, to the bustling Inn of Bowness. 68 1 I will not call upon the Reader to waste 2 his time upon descriptions of things, 3 which every one makes a point of seeing, 4 and of such as lie open to the notice of 5 the most inattentive Traveller. This, with 6 respect to a country now so well known, 7 would be useless in itself; and would be 8 especially improper in a publication of 9 this kind, the main purport of which is, 10 to exhibit scenes which lie apart from the 11 beaten course of observation.— 12 Accordingly I shall chiefly expatiate upon 13 those retired spots, which have furnished 14 subjects for the majority of these 15 Etchings, or upon others of the same 16 character; and when I treat of the more 17 frequent scenes, I shall attempt little more 18 than to point out qualities by which they 19 are characterized, which may easily escape 20 the notice of the cursory Spectator. The 21 appearance of the neighbourhood of 22 Bowness, within the last five and thirty 23 years, has undergone many changes, and 24 most of these for the worse, for want of 25 due attention to those principles of taste, 26 and those rules for planting and building 27 in a country of this kind, which have 28 been discussed at large in the 29 Introduction. The Islands of Windermere 30 are beautifully shaped and intermingled. 31 Upon the largest are a few fine old trees; 32 but a great part of this delightful spot, 33 when it first fell into the Improver’s 34 hand, was struck over with trees that are 35 here out of place; and, had the present 36 public-spirited Proprietor sufficient 37 leisure amidst his important avocations to 38 examine the principles which have been 39 enforced in these pages, he would 40 probably be induced to weed these 41 foreigners out by little and little, and 42 introduce more appropriate trees in their 43 stead; such as would be pleasing to look 44 at in their youth, and in maturity and old 45 age might succeed to those venerable 46 natives which the axe has spared. The 47 embankment also, which has been raised 48 round this Island for the sake of 49 preserving the land, could only, it should 50 seem, have been necessary in a few 51 exposed points; and the artificial 52 appearance which this has given to the 53 whole spot is much to be regretted; not to 54 speak of the infinite varieties of minute 55 beauty which it must have destroyed. 56 Could not the margin of this noble Island 57 be given back to Nature? Winds and 58 Waves work with a careless and graceful 59 hand; and any thing which they take 60 away would be amply compensated by 61 the additional spirit, dignity and 62 loveliness which these agents and the 63 other powers of Nature would soon 64 communicate to what was left behind. 69 1 Windermere ought to be seen both from 2 its shores and from its surface. None of 3 the other Lakes unfold so many fresh 4 beauties to him who sails upon them. 5 This is owing to its greater size, to its 6 Islands, and to a circumstance in which 7 this Lake differs from all the rest, viz. that 8 of having two Vales at its head, with their 9 accompanying mountains of nearly equal 10 dignity. Nor can the whole grandeur of 11 these two terminations be seen at the 12 same time from any one point, except 13 from the bosom of the Lake. The Islands 14 may be explored at any time of the day; 15 but one bright unruffled evening at least, 16 must, if possible, be set apart for the 17 splendour, the stillness and solemnity of a 18 three hours voyage upon the higher 19 division of the Lake, not omitting, 20 towards the end of the excursion, to quit 21 the expanse of water, and peep into the 22 close and calm River at the head; which, 23 in its quiet character, at such a time, 24 appears rather like an overflow of the 25 peaceful Lake itself than to have any more 26 immediate connection with the rough 27 mountains from which it has descended, 28 or the turbulent Torrents of which it is 29 composed. Many persons content 30 themselves with what they see of 31 Windermere in their progress in a boat 32 from Bowness to the head of the Lake, 33 walking thence to Ambleside; but this is 34 doing things by halves. The whole road 35 from Bowness is rich in diversity of 36 pleasing or grand scenery; there is scarcely 37 a field on the road side which, if it were 38 entered, would not give to the Landscape 39 some additional charm. Low-wood Inn, a 40 mile from the head of Windermere is a 41 pleasant halting-place; and the fields 42 above it, and the lane which leads to the 43 Troutbeck, present beautiful views 44 towards each extremity of the Lake. From 45 this place, and still more conveniently 46 from Ambleside, rides on horseback or in 47 carriages may be taken in almost every 48 direction, and the interesting walks are 49 inexhaustible. 70 1 This Town or Market-village was 2 formerly perhaps more rich in 3 picturesque beauty, arising from a 4 combination of rustic architecture and 5 natural scenery than any small Town or 6 Village in Great Britain. Many of the 7 ancient buildings with their porches, 8 projections, round chimnies and galleries 9 have been displaced to make way for the 10 docked, featureless, and memberless 11 edifices of modern architecture; which 12 look as if fresh brought upon wheels from 13 the Foundry, where they had been cast. 14 Yet this Town, if carefully noticed, will 15 still be found to retain such store of 16 picturesque materials as will secure the 17 praise of what it once was from any 18 suspicion of partiality. The Brook, which 19 divides the Town ought to be explored 20 along its channel; if the state of the 21 stream will permit. Below the Bridge is a 22 Mill, and also an old Summer-house, 23 with other old buildings, ivied Trunks of 24 Trees, and mossy Stones, which have 25 furnished subjects for many a picture; 26 and above the Bridge, though there are 27 no Buildings, every step is interesting till 28 the curious Traveller is stopped by the 29 huge breastwork of Stock-gill Force. 30 Within a quarter of a mile of Ambleside 31 is a scene called the Nook, which deserves 32 to be explored. It is to be found in 33 Scandle Gill, the channel of the first 34 Brook that comes down Scandle Fell to 35 the North of Ambleside. I need not 36 describe the scene; its principal feature is 37 a Bridge thrown over the Torrent. From 38 this Bridge I wish it were in my power to 39 re-commend it to the Traveller to 40 proceed northwards, along the slope of 41 the hill-side, till he reaches the Park of 42 Rydale; but this would be a trespass; for 43 there is no path, and high and envious 44 stone walls interpose. We must therefore 45 give up the best approach to some of the 46 most glorious scenes in the world; this 47 may be yet said, though not without 48 painful regret for the havoc which has 49 been made among them. Some hundreds 50 of oaks are gone, 51 52 “Whose boughs were mossed with age, 53 “And high tops bald with dry antiquity,” 54 55 a majestic Forest covering a mountain 56 side! into the recesses of which penetrated 57 like a vision, Landscapes of rivers, broad 58 waters, vallies, rocks and mountains:— 59 The Lake of Rydale on the Northwest, 60 with its Islands and rocky steeps, circular 61 and deeply embosomed; and to the South 62 the long Valley of Ambleside and the 63 gleaming Lake of Windermere. The 64 noblest of these trees have been sacrificed; 65 but the side of the hill, though thinned, is 66 not wholly laid bare; and the Herons and 67 Rooks that hover round this choice 68 retreat have yet a remnant of their ancient 69 roosting-place. The unfrequented spots, 70 of which I have been speaking may be 71 visited, with permission from the 72 Mansion, after the Waterfall has been 73 seen. 71 1 Of places at a distance from Ambleside, 2 but commodiously visited from that 3 Village, Coniston may be first 4 mentioned; though this Lake as I said 5 before, will thus be approached to great 6 disadvantage.—Next comes Great 7 Langdale, a Vale which should on no 8 account be missed by him who has a true 9 enjoyment of grand separate Forms 10 composing a sublime Unity, austere but 11 reconciled and rendered attractive to the 12 affections by the deep serenity that is 13 spread over every thing. There is no good 14 carriage road through this Vale; nor 15 ought that to be regretted; for it would 16 impair its solemnity: but the road is 17 tolerable for about the distance of three 18 miles from Ambleside, namely along the 19 Vale of Brathay, and above the western 20 banks of Loughrigg Tarn, and still 21 further, to the entrance of Langdale itself: 22 but the small and peaceful Valley of 23 Louthrigg is seen to much greater 24 advantage from the eastern side. When 25 therefore you have quitted the River 26 Brathay enquire at the first house for the 27 foot road, which will conduct you round 28 the lower extremity of the Tarn, and so 29 on to its head, where, at a little distance 30 from the Tarn the path again leads to the 31 publick road and about a mile further 32 conducts you to Langdale Chapel.—A 33 little way beyond this sequestered and 34 simple place of worship is a narrow 35 passage on the right leading into a slate- 36 quarry which has been finely excavated. 37 Pursuing this road a few hundred yards 38 further, you come in view of the noblest 39 reach of this Vale, which I shall not 40 attempt to describe. Under the Precipice 41 adjoining to the Pikes lies invisibly Stickle 42 Tarn, and thence descends a conspicuous 43 Torrent down the breast of the 44 Mountain. Near this Torrent is Dungeon 45 Gill Force, which cannot be found 46 without a Guide, who may be taken up at 47 one of the Cottages at the foot of the 48 Mountain. 49 50 “Into the chasm a mighty block 51 Hath fallen, and made a bridge of rock; 52 The gulph is deep below, 53 And in a bason black and small 54 Receives a lofty Waterfall.” 72 1 At the head of Langdale is a passage over 2 to the Borrowdale; but this ought on no 3 account to be taken by a person who has 4 not seen the main features of the country 5 from their best approaches.—If the 6 Traveller has been zealous enough to 7 advance as far as Dungeon-gill Force, let 8 him enquire for Blea Tarn; he may return 9 by that circuit to Ambleside. Blea Tarn is 10 not an object of any beauty in itself, but 11 it is situated in a small, deep circular 12 Valley of peculiar character; for it 13 contains only one Dwelling-house and 14 two or three cultivated fields. Passing 15 down this Valley fail not to look back 16 now and then, and you will see Langdale 17 Pikes, from behind the rocky steeps that 18 form its northeastern boundary, lifting 19 themselves, as if on tiptoe, to pry into it. 20 Quitting the Valley you will descend into 21 little Langdale, and thence may proceed 22 by Colwith Force and Bridge. Leaving 23 Skelwith-Bridge on your left ascend with 24 the road to Skelwith; and from a field on 25 the northern side of that small cluster of 26 houses, you will look down upon a grand 27 view of the River Brathay, Elter-water 28 and the mountains of Langdale, &c. 29 Thence proceed occasionally looking, 30 down the Brathay on the side of the River 31 opposite to that by which you had 32 ascended in your way to Louthrigg Tarn. 33 The whole of this excursion may be as 34 much as 18 miles, and would require a 35 long morning to be devoted to the 36 accomplishment. I will now mention 37 only one more ride or walk from 38 Ambleside. Go to the Bridge over the 39 Rothay (of which a view is given in the 40 Etchings), between Ambleside and 41 Clappersgate. When you have crossed the 42 Bridge, turn to a Gate on the right hand, 43 and proceed with the road up the Valley 44 of Ambleside, till you come opposite to 45 the Village of Rydale; do not cross over to 46 Rydale, but keep close to the Mountain 47 on you left hand, with the River at a little 48 distance on your right, till you come in 49 view of Rydale Lake. Advance with the 50 Lake on your right till you quit the Vale 51 of Rydale, and come in view of Grasmere. 52 Follow the road, which will conduct you 53 round along the lower extremity of the 54 Lake of Grasmere, till you reach the 55 Church; thence into the main road back 56 to Ambleside, looking behind you 57 frequently. 73 1 The two hours before sunset are the most 2 favourable time of the day for seeing the 3 lower division of Wytheburne Lake, but 4 it is advisable to choose the earlier part of 5 this time, in order that the Traveller may 6 be enabled to descend into the Vale of 7 Keswick while the sunbeams are upon it. 8 That this first impression of that Vale 9 should be received under the most 10 favourable circumstances, is very 11 desirable; and therefore I do not 12 recommend, as I should otherwise have 13 done, that the Traveller, who has been 14 guided by my directions thus far, should 15 lengthen his journey to Keswick still 16 further, and follow the stream that issues 17 out of Wytheburn Lake till it enters St. 18 John’s Vale, which he may do if he be on 19 foot, keeping to the side of it almost all 20 the way; and, if on horseback, he may 21 return to it by a small circuit, after having 22 crossed Shoulthwaite Moss. I should have 23 directed the Traveller in this case to 24 proceed a mile and a half down St. John’s 25 Vale, and then to cross Naddle Fell, by 26 St. John’s Chapel, which would bring 27 him into the road between Ambleside 28 and Keswick, something better than two 29 miles short of the latter place. This may 30 easily be done, taking the lower division 31 of Wytheburn earlier in the afternoon 32 than the time which I have recommended 33 as the best. 74 1 We have now reached Keswick. I shall 2 not attempt a general description of this 3 celebrated Vale, because this has already 4 been admirably performed by Dr. Brown, 5 and by the Poet Gray; and the place is at 6 this time very generally well known. As 7 the Views in this work have been taken 8 almost exclusively from retired spots in 9 the Ghylls, or Gills, and smaller Vallies 10 that branch off from the trunk of the 11 Vale, it will be more appropriate to this 12 publication, and will better suit its 13 narrow limits, to say a few words upon 14 them. And to begin with one of the 15 smallest, Applethwaite (for Views of 16 which see Nos. 22, 23, and 24). This is a 17 hamlet of six of seven houses, hidden in a 18 small recess at the foot of Skiddaw, and 19 adorned by a little Brook, which, having 20 descended from a great height in a silver 21 line down the steep blue side of the 22 Mountain, trickles past the doors of the 23 Cottages. This concealed spot is very 24 interesting as you approach from the 25 bottom, with your face towards the green 26 and blue mass of Skiddaw; and is not less 27 pleasing when, having advanced by a 28 gentle slope for some space, you turn 29 your head and look out from this chink 30 or fissure, which is sprinkled with little 31 orchards and trees, and behold the whole 32 splendour of the upper and middle part 33 of the Vale of Keswick, with its Lakes and 34 Mountains spread before your eyes. A 35 small Spinning-mill has lately been 36 erected here, and some of the old 37 Cottages, with their picturesque 38 appendages, are fallen into decay. This is 39 to be regretted; for, these blemishes 40 excepted, the scene is a rare and almost 41 singular combination of minute and 42 sequestered beauty, with splendid and 43 extensive prospects. On the opposite side 44 of the Vale of Keswick lie the Valley of 45 Newlands, and the Village of Braithwaite, 46 with its stream descending from a cove of 47 the Mountain. From both these spots I 48 have given Views, from which an idea of 49 their features may be collected. 50 Braithwaite lies at the foot of Whenlater, 51 in the road to Lorton and Cockermouth; 52 and through Newlands passes the nearest 53 road to Buttermere. Returning to the 54 eastern side of the Vale of Keswick, we 55 find the narrow and retired Valley of 56 Watenlath, enclosed on each side and at 57 the head by craggy Mountains. In the 58 Mountains at the head, the stream rises, 59 which forms the Cascade of Lodore. This, 60 after flowing a short way through a 61 pastoral tract, falls into a small Lake or 62 Tarn, which lies midway in the long 63 Valley of Watenlath. At the point where 64 the stream issues out of the Tarn, is a 65 beautiful Bridge of one arch, and close 66 beside the Bridge is a little Hamlet, a 67 cluster of grey Cottages. There are no 68 other dwellings in the Valley; and a more 69 secluded spot than this Hamlet cannot 70 well be conceived: yet ascend a very little 71 up the hill above it, and you have a most 72 magnificent prospect of the Vale of 73 Keswick, as far as Skiddaw; and, pursuing 74 the Valley of Watenlath to its head, if you 75 look back, the view of the little Valley 76 itself, with its Lake, Bridge, and Cottages, 77 is combined with that of the majestic 78 Vale beyond, so that each seems to be a 79 part of the other. But the most 80 considerable of the Dales which 81 communicate with the Vale of Keswick 82 by the Rivers which flow through them, 83 are Borrowdale and St. John’s. Of St. 84 John’s we have already spoken; and 85 Borrowdale is in fact the head of the Vale 86 of Keswick. It would be an endless task to 87 attempt, by verbal descriptions, to guide 88 the traveller among the infinite variety of 89 beautiful or interesting objects which are 90 found in the different reaches of the 91 broad Valley itself, nor less so to attempt 92 to lead him through its little recesses, its 93 nooks, and tributary glens. I must 94 content myself with saying, that this 95 Valley surpasses all the others in variety. 96 Rocks and Woods are intermingled on 97 the hillsides with profuse wildness; and 98 on the plain below (for the area of the 99 Valley, through all its windings is 100 generally a level plain, out of which the 101 Mountains rise as from their base,) the 102 single Cottages and clusters of Houses are 103 numerous; not glaringly spread before the 104 eye, but unobtrusive as the rocks 105 themselves, and mostly coloured like 106 them. There is scarcely a Cottage that has 107 not its own tuft of trees. The Yew-tree 108 has been a favourite with the former 109 Inhabitants of Borrowdale; for many fine 110 old Yew-trees yet remain near the 112 Cottages, probably first planted for an 113 ornament to their gardens, and now 114 preserved as a shelter, and for the sake of 115 their venerable appearance. But the 116 noblest Yew-trees to be found here, are a 117 cluster of three, with a fourth a little 118 detached, which do not stand in 119 connection with any houses; they are in 120 that part of Borrowdale which is called 121 Seathwaite, immediately under the 122 entrance into the Lead-mines. Nothing of 123 the kind can be conceived more solemn 124 and impressive than the small gloomy 125 grove formed by these trees. 75 1 The lower part of the Vale of Keswick is 2 occupied by the Lake of Bassenthwaite; 3 and he who coasts its western shore, will 4 be well and variously recompensed; and 5 in particular by the appearance of 6 Skiddaw, rising immediately from the 7 opposite side of the Lake. Following this 8 road, we cross the lower extremity of 9 Embleton Vale. Embleton may be 10 mentioned as the last of the Vallies 11 collateral to the main Vale of Keswick. It 12 unfolds on the west, near the foot of 13 Bassenthwaite Lake, a scene of humble 14 and gentle character; but deriving 15 animated beauty from the Lake, and 16 striking majesty from the Mountain of 17 Skiddaw, which is on this side broken 18 and rugged, and of an aspect which is 19 forcibly contrasted with that with which 20 it looks upon Derwent Lake. The view of 21 the whole vista of the Vale of Keswick 22 from Armathwaite and Ouze Bridge is 23 magnificent; and the scenes upon the 24 River Derwent, as far as the grand ruins 25 of Cockermouth Castle, are soft and 26 varied, and well worthy of the notice of 27 the Pedestrian, who has leisure to go in 28 search of them. 76 1 From the Vale of Keswick, of which there 2 is no need to say any thing more, the 3 Tourist usually proceeds to Buttermere, 4 to which there are three roads; the one 5 through part of Borrowdale, which brings 6 him down into the Vale of Buttermere, at 7 its head: but Borrowdale I suppose to 8 have been already explored, a strong 9 reason against choosing this approach. 10 Yet in justice to this road I must add, that 11 the descent into Gatesgarth, immediately 12 under Honister Crag, causes one of the 13 sublimest impressions which this country 14 can produce. The second road leads 15 through Newlands. The descent into 16 Buttermere by this way is solitary and 17 grand; but the Vale of Newlands itself I 18 suppose also to have been visited in the 19 Tour round the Lake of Keswick (which 20 no person of taste ought to omit), or in 21 other rambles. It follows, then, that the 22 third is the road which I would 23 recommend, namely, the carriage road, 24 which leads over Whinlater, through part 25 of the Vale of Lorton, to the outlet of 26 Crummock-water. Here was formerly an 27 inn, kept at a house called Scale Hill, an 28 accommodation which I believe no 29 longer exists. It would, however, be ill- 30 judged not to turn aside to Scale Hill; the 31 carriage or horses might be sent forward 32 by the high-road, and ordered to wait till 33 the Traveller rejoined them by the 34 footpath, which leads through the woods 35 along the side of Crummock. This path 36 presents noble scenes, looking up the 37 Lake towards Buttermere. If the Traveller 38 be desirous of visiting Lowes-water, 39 instead of proceeding directly along this 40 path, he must cross the Bridge over the 41 Cocker, near Scale Hill, to which he must 42 return after a walk or ride of three or four 43 miles. I am not sure that the circuit of 44 this Lake can be made on horseback; but 45 every path and field in the 46 neighbourhood would well repay the 47 active exertions of the Pedestrian. Nor 48 will the most hasty Visitant fail to notice 49 with pleasure, that community of 50 attractive and substantial houses which 51 are dispersed over the fertile inclosures at 52 the foot of those rugged Mountains, and 53 form a most impressive contrast with the 54 humble and rude dwellings which are 55 usually found at the head of these far- 56 winding Dales. It must be mentioned 57 also, that there is scarcely any thing finer 58 than the view from a boat in the centre of 59 Crummock-water. The scene is deep, and 60 solemn, and lonely; and in no other spot 61 is the majesty of the Mountains so 62 irresistibly felt as an omnipresence, or so 63 passively submitted to as a spirit 64 incumbent upon the imagination. Near 65 the head of Crummock-water, on the 66 right, is Scale Force, a Waterfall worthy 67 of being visited, both for its own sake, 68 and for the sublime View across the Lake, 69 looking back in your ascent towards the 70 Chasm. The Fall is perpendicular from an 71 immense height, a slender stream faintly 72 illuminating a gloomy fissure. This spot is 73 never seen to a more advantage than 74 when it happens, that, while you are 75 looking up through the Chasm towards 76 the summit of the lofty Waterfall, large 77 fleecy clouds, of dazzling brightness, 78 suddenly ascend into view, and disappear 79 silently upon the wind. The Village of 80 Buttermere lies a mile and a half higher 81 up the Vale, and of the intermediate 82 country I have nothing to say. It would 83 be advisable, if time permit, that you 84 should go as far up the Vale as Honister 85 Crag; and if in horseback, or on foot, you 86 may return to Keswick by Newlands. 77 1 The rest of the scenes in this part of the 2 country of which I have given views, 3 namely, those of Ennerdale and 4 Westdale, cannot, without a good deal of 5 trouble, be approached in a carriage. For 6 Foot-travellers, and for those who are not 7 afraid of leading their horses through 8 difficult ways, there is a road from 9 Buttermere directly over the mountains 10 to Ennerdale; there is also another road 11 from the head of Buttermere to the head 12 of Westdale, without going into 13 Borrowdale: but both Ennerdale and 14 Westdale are best seen by making a 15 considerable circuit; namely, by retracing 16 our steps to Scale Hill, and thence by 17 Lowes-water and Lamplugh to Ennerdale. 18 The first burst of Ennerdale from an 19 eminence is very noble, and the mind is 20 more alive to the impression, because we 21 have quitted for a while the heart of the 22 mountains, and been led through a tamer 23 country. Ennerdale is bold and savage in 24 its general aspect, though not destitute, 25 towards the higher part of the Lake, of 26 fertile and beautiful spots. From 27 Ennerdale-Bridge to Calder-Bridge, the 28 road leads over Cold Fell. The distance is 29 six miles, a desolate tract, with the 30 exception of the last half mile, through a 31 narrow and well-wooded Valley, in which 32 is a small, but beautiful fragment of 33 Calder Abbey. The village lying close to 34 Calder-Bridge has good inns, and the bed 35 of the River about the Bridge is rocky and 36 spirited. We are here in a plain country 37 near to the sea, and therefore better 38 prepared to enjoy the mountain 39 sublimities of Westdale, which soon 40 begin to shew themselves, and grow upon 41 us at every step, till we reach the margin 42 of the Lake. This Water (for the Lakes are 43 generally called Waters by the country 44 people) is not so much as four miles in 45 length, and becomes very narrow for the 46 space of half a mile towards its outlet. On 47 one side it is bordered by a continued 48 straight line of high and almost 49 perpendicular steeps, rising immediately 50 from the Lake, without any bays or 51 indentings. This is a very striking feature: 52 for these steeps, or screes (as places of this 53 kind are named), are not more 54 distinguished by their height and extent, 55 than by the beautiful colours with which 56 the pulverized rock, for ever crumbling 57 down their sides, overspreads them. The 58 surface has the apparent softness of the 59 dove’s neck, and (as was before 60 mentioned, in reference to spots of this 61 kind,) resembles a dove’s neck strongly in 62 its hues, and in the manner in which they 63 are intermingled. On the other side, Wast 64 water is bordered by knotty and 65 projecting rocky mountains, which, 66 retiring in one place, admit the 67 interposition of a few green fields 68 between them and the Lake, with a 69 solitary farm-house. From the 70 termination of the Screes rises Scaw Fell, 71 deemed higher than Skiddaw, or 72 Helvellyn, or any of the Mountains. The 73 summit, as seen from Westdale, is bold 74 and abrupt, and if you should quit the 75 Valley and ascend towards it, it appears, 76 from the Cove beneath, like the shattered 77 walls or towers of an enormous edifice. 78 Upon the summit of one of those towers 79 is a fragment of rock that looks like an 80 eagle, or a large owl, on that 81 commanding eminence, stationary 82 through all seasons. The Views which I 83 have given are from the shore about the 84 middle of Wast-water, from a point 85 where the Vale appears to be terminated 86 by three large conical Mountains, 87 Yewbarrow on the left, Great Gavel in the 88 centre, and Lingmoor on the right. About 89 two miles further is the Division of 90 Westdale Head, with its lowly Chapel. 91 This place formerly consisted of twenty 92 tenements. It is now reduced to six. This 93 Valley has been described in the 94 Introduction, as seen from the summit of 95 Great Gavel; but the Traveller will be 96 pleased with a nearer view of these 97 pastoral dwellings, which in the inside are 98 as comfortable as their outside is beautiful 99 and picturesque. A hospitable people live 100 here, and do not repine at the distance 101 and the barriers which separate them 102 from the noisy world. Give them more 103 sunshine and a richer soil, and they 104 would have little to complain of. The 105 Stranger will observe here and elsewhere 106 large heaps of stones, like Sepulchral 107 Barrows, which have been collected from 108 the fields and thrown together by the 109 labours of many generations. From the 110 summits either of Great Gavel, or Scaw 111 Fell, there are sublime prospects. Great 112 Gavel may be proud of the Vallies which 113 it looks down into, and Scaw Fell of the 114 dark multitudinous Mountains, rising 115 ridge above ridge, which it commands on 116 the one side, and of the extent of sea and 117 sand spreading in a level plain on the 118 other. The ascent of Scaw Fell is easy, 119 that of Great Gavel laborious. I cannot 120 deny myself the pleasure of adding, that 121 on the highest point of Great Gavel is a 122 small triangular receptacle of water in a 123 rock. It is not a spring; yet the shepherds 124 say it is never dry: certainly when I was 125 there, during a season of drought, it was 126 well supplied with water. Here the 127 Traveller may slake his thirst plenteously 128 with a pure and celestial beverage; for it 129 appears that this cup or bason has no 130 other feeder than the dews of heaven, the 131 showers, the vapours, the hoar frost, and 132 the spotless snow. From Wastdale return 133 to Keswick by Stye-Head and 134 Borrowdale. Take a look backwards upon 135 Wastdale, from the last point where it is 136 visible. The long strait vista of the Vale, 137 and the sea beyond, apparent between the 138 Mountains, form a grand whole. A few 139 steps further bring you to Stye-Head 140 Tarn (for which see No. 43). By the side 141 of the Tarn, an eagle (I believe of the 142 ospray species) was killed last spring. 143 Though large, it was very light, and 144 seemed exhausted by hunger. The stream 145 which flows into this Tarn comes from 146 another, called Sprinkling Tarn, famous 147 among anglers for the finest trouts in the 148 country. In rainy seasons there is a 149 magnificent waterfall formed by the 150 stream which issues from Stye-Head 151 Tarn. You have it on your left as you 152 descend into Seathwaite division of 153 Rovendale. About a mile further down 154 upon the left is that cluster of yew-trees 155 recommended to notice; thence through 156 a succession of magnificent scenes to 157 Keswick. 78 1 It remains that we should speak of 2 Ullswater. There are two roads by which 3 this Lake may be visited from Keswick. 4 That which is adapted for Travellers on 5 horseback, or on foot, crosses the lower 6 part of St. John’s Vale, and brings you 7 down through the Valley and scattered 8 Village of Matterdale into Gowbarrow 9 Park, unfolding at once a magnificent 10 view of the two higher reaches of the 11 Lake. Airey Force thunders down the 12 Ghyll, or Gill, on the left, at a small 13 distance from the road; but you are 14 separated from it by the Park-wall. In a 15 carriage, Ullswater is best approached 16 from Penrith. A mile and a half brings 17 you to the winding Vale of Emont, and 18 the prospects increase in interest till you 19 reach Patterdale; but the first four miles 20 along Ullswater by this road are 21 comparatively tame, and in order to see 22 the lower part of the Lake to advantage, it 23 is absolutely necessary to go round by 24 Poolly-Bridge, and to ride at least three 25 miles along the Westmoreland side of the 26 Water, towards Martindale. The Views 27 from this quarter, especially if you ascend 28 from the road into the fields, are 29 magnificent; yet I only mention this that 30 the transient Traveller may know what 31 exists; for it will be very inconvenient for 32 him to go in search of them. The person 33 who takes this course of three or four 34 miles, which I am now recommending, 35 on foot, should take care to have a boat in 36 readiness at the end of his walk, to carry 37 him right across to the Cumberland side, 38 along which he may pursue his way 39 upwards to Patterdale. 79 1 Having conducted the Traveller hither, I 2 shall treat no further of the body of this 3 celebrated Vale; but, for the same reasons 4 which governed me when I was speaking 5 of Keswick, I shall confine myself to the 6 Glens and Vallies which branch off from 7 it. 80 1 At Dalemain, about three miles from 2 Penrith, a Stream is crossed, called Dacre, 3 which, rising in the moorish country 4 about Penruddock, flows down a soft 5 sequestered Valley, passing by the ancient 6 mansions of Hutton John and Dacre 7 Castle. The former is pleasantly situated, 8 though of a character somewhat gloomy 9 and monastic; and from some of the 10 fields near Dalemain, Dacre Castle, 11 backed by the jagged summit of 12 Saddleback, and with the Valley and 13 Stream in front of it, forms a grand 14 picture. There is no other stream that 15 conducts us to any glen or valley worthy 16 of being mentioned, till you reach the 17 one which leads you up to Airey Force, 18 and then into Matterdale, before spoken 19 of. Matterdale, though a wild and 20 interesting spot, has no peculiar features 21 that would make it worth the Stranger’s 22 while to go in search of them; but in 23 Gowbarrow Park the lover of Nature 24 might wish to linger for hours. Here is a 25 powerful Brook, which dashes among 26 rocks through a deep glen, hung on every 27 side with a rich and happy intermixture 28 of native wood; here are beds of luxuriant 29 fern, aged hawthorns, and hollies decked 30 with honeysuckles; and fallow-deer 31 glancing and bounding over the lawns 32 and through the thickets. These are the 33 attractions of the retired views, or 34 constitute a foreground to ever-varying 35 pictures of the majestic Lake, forced to 36 take a winding course by bold 37 promontories, and environed by 38 mountains of sublime form, towering 39 above each other. Having passed under a 40 plantation of larches, we reach, at the 41 outlet of Gowbarrow Park, a third 42 Stream, which flows through a little 43 recess called Glencoin, in which lurks a 44 single house, yet visible from the road. 45 Let the Artist and leisurely Traveller turn 46 aside to it for the buildings, and the 47 objects around them are both romantic 48 and exquisitely picturesque. Having 49 passed under the steeps of Styebarrow 50 Crag, and the remains of its native 51 woods, you cross, at Glenridding-Bridge, 52 a fourth Stream, which, if followed up, 53 would lead to Red Tarn and the recesses 54 of Helvellyn. The opening on the side of 55 Ullswater Vale, down which the Stream 56 flows, is adorned with fertile fields, 57 cottages, and natural groves, which 58 agreeably coalesce with the transverse 59 views of the Lake; and the Stream, if 60 followed up after the enclosures are left 61 behind, will lead along bold water-breaks 62 and waterfalls to a silent Tarn in the 63 recesses of Helvellyn. This desolate spot 64 was formerly haunted by eagles, that built 65 in the precipice which forms its western 66 barrier. These birds used to wheel and 67 hover round the head of the solitary 68 angler. It also now derives a melancholy 69 interest from the fate of a young man, a 70 stranger, who perished here a few years 71 ago, by falling down the rocks in his 72 attempt to cross over to Grasmere. His 73 remains were discovered by means of a 74 faithful dog, which had lingered here for 75 the space of three months, self supported, 76 and probably retaining to the last an 77 attachment to the skeleton of its dead 78 master. But to return to the road which 79 we have left in the main Vale of 80 Ullswater.—At the head of the Lake 81 (being now in Patterdale) we cross a fifth 82 Stream, Grisdale Beck; this conducts 83 through a woody steep, where may be 84 seen some unusually large ancient hollies, 85 up to the level area of the Valley of 86 Grisdale; hence there is a path for Foot- 87 travellers, and along which a horse may 88 be led, but not without difficulty, to 89 Grasmere. I know not any where a more 90 sublime combination of mountain forms 91 than those which appear in front, as we 92 ascend along the bed of this Valley; and 93 the impression increases with every step 94 till the path grows steep; and as we climb 95 almost immediately under the projecting 96 masses of Helvellyn, the mind is 97 overcome with a sensation, which in 98 some would amount to personal fear, and 99 cannot but be awful even to those who 100 are most familiar with the images of 101 duration, and power, and other kindred 102 influences, by which mountainous 103 countries controul or exalt the 104 imaginations of men. It is not 105 uninteresting to know, that in the last 106 house but one of this Valley, separated, as 107 it might seem, from all the ambition and 108 troubles of the world, from its wars and 109 commotions, was born the youth, who, 110 in Spain, took prisoner the Colonel of the 111 Imperial Guard of Buonaparte. This 112 favourite of the tyrant fled from the 113 assault of our British mountaineer with 114 his two attend ants, who escaped; but he 115 himself was not so fortunate. Having 116 retraced the banks of this stream to 117 Patterdale, and pursued our way up the 118 main Dale, the next considerable stream 119 which we cross, would, if ascended in the 120 same manner, conduct us into Deepdale, 121 the character of which Valley may be 122 conjectured by its name. It is terminated 123 by a cove, a craggy and gloomy abyss, 124 with precipitous sides; a faithful 125 receptacle of the snows, which are carried 126 into it, by the west wind, from the 127 summit of Fairfield. Lastly, having gone 128 along the western side of Brothers-water 129 and passed Hartsop Hall, we are brought 130 soon after to a stream which issues from a 131 cove richly decorated with native wood. 132 This spot is, I believe, never explored by 133 Travellers; but whether from these sylvan 134 and rocky recesses you look back on the 135 gleaming surface of Brothers-water, or 136 forward to the precipitous sides and lofty 137 ridges of the mountains, you will be 138 equally pleased with the beauty, the 139 grandeur, and the wildness of the scenery. 81 1 We have thus noticed no less than seven 2 Glens, or Vallies, which branch off from 3 the western side of the long Vale which 4 we have been ascending. The opposite 5 side has only two streams of any 6 importance, one of which flows by the 7 Village of Hartsop, near the foot of 8 Brothers-water, and the other, coming 9 down Martindale, enters Ullswater at 10 Sandwyke, opposite to Gowbarrow Park. 11 Of Martindale I shall say a few words, 12 but I must first return to our 13 headquarters at the Village of Patterdale. 14 No persons, but such as come to this 15 place merely to pass through it, should 16 fail to walk a mile and a half down the 17 side of the Lake opposite to that on 18 which the high-road lies: they should 19 proceed beyond the point where the 20 inclosures terminate. I have already had 21 too frequent reason to lament the changes 22 which have been made in the face of this 23 country; and scarcely any where has a 24 more grievous loss been sustained than 25 upon the Farm of Blowick, the only 26 enclosed land which on this side borders 27 the higher part of the Lake. The axe has 28 indiscriminately levelled a rich wood of 29 birches and oaks, which, two or three 30 years ago, varied this favoured spot into a 31 thousand pictures. It has yet its land- 32 locked bay and promontories; but now 33 those beautiful woods are gone, which 34 clothed its lawns and perfected its 35 seclusion. Who, then, will not regret that 36 those scenes, which might formerly have 37 been compared to an inexhaustible 38 volume, are now spread before the eye in 39 a single sheet, magnificent indeed, but 40 seemingly perused in a moment? From 41 Blowick, a narrow tract, by which a horse 42 may be led, but with difficulty, conducts 43 along the cragged side of Place Fell, richly 44 adorned with juniper, and sprinkled over 45 with birches, to the Village of Sandwyke; 46 a few straggling houses, which, with the 47 small estates attached to them, occupy an 48 opening opposite to Lyulph’s Tower and 49 Gowbarrow Park. This stream flows 50 down Martindale, a Valley deficient in 51 richness, but interesting from its 52 seclusion. In Vales of this character the 53 general want of wood gives a peculiar 54 interest to the scattered cottages, 55 embowered in sycamores; and few of the 56 Mountain Chapels are more striking than 57 this of Martindale, standing as it does in 58 the centre of the Valley, with one dark 59 yew-tree, and enclosed by “a bare ring of 60 mossy wall.” The name of Boardale, a 61 bare, deep, and houseless Valley, which 62 communicates with Martindale, shews 63 that the wild swine were once numerous 64 in that nook; and Martindale Forest is yet 65 one the few spots in England ranged over 66 by red deer. These are the descendants of 67 the aboriginal herds. In Martindale, the 68 road loses sight of the Lake, and leads 69 over a steep hill, bringing you again into 70 view of Ullswater. Its lowest reach, four 71 miles in length, is before you; and the 72 View is terminated by the long ridge of 73 Cross Fell at a distance. Immediately 74 under the eye is a deep-indented bay, 75 with a plot of fertile land by the side of it, 76 traversed by a small brook, and rendered 77 cheerful by two or three substantial 78 houses of a more ornamental and shewy 79 appearance than is usual in these wild 80 spots. Poolly-Bridge, at the foot of the 81 Lake, to which we have again returned, 82 has a good inn; and from this place 83 Hawes-water, which has furnished me 84 with the subject of an Etching, may be 85 conveniently visited. Of Hawes-water I 86 shall only say, that it is a lesser Ullswater, 87 with this advantage, that it remains 88 undefiled by the intrusion of bad taste. 82 1 Lowther Castle is about four miles from 2 Poolly-Bridge, and if during this Tour 3 the Stranger has complained, as he will 4 have reason to do, of a want of majestic 5 trees, he may be abundantly recompensed 6 for his loss in the far-spreading woods 7 which surround that mansion. 83 1 I must now express my hope, that the 2 Reader of the foregoing pages will not 3 blame me for having led him through 4 unfrequented paths so much out of the 5 common road. In this I have acted in 6 conformity to the spirit of the Etchings, 7 which are chiefly taken from sequestered 8 scenes; and these must become every day 9 more attractive in the eyes of the man of 10 taste, unless juster notions and more 11 appropriate feelings should find their way 12 into the minds of those who, either from 13 vanity, want of judgment, or some other 14 cause, are rapidly taking away the native 15 beauties of such parts of this Country as 16 are most frequented, or most easy of 17 access; and who are disguising the Vales, 18 and the Borders of the Lakes, by an 19 accumulation of unsightly buildings and 20 discordant objects. 84 1 [New paras. in 2nd ed.] Thus far respecting the most eligible Thus far concerning respecting the most 2 season for visiting this country. As to eligible the respective advantages and 3 the order in which objects are best seen disadvantages of the different seasons 4 — a Lake being composed of water for visiting this country. 5 flowing from higher grounds, and 6 expanding itself till its receptacle is 7 filled to the brim, — it follows 8 from the nature of things, that it will from the nature of things, that 9 appear to most advantage when 10 approached from its outlet, especially 11 if the Lake be in a mountainous 12 country; for, by this way of approach, 13 the traveller faces the grander features 14 of the scene, and is gradually 15 conducted into its most sublime 16 recesses. Now, every one knows, that 17 from amenity and beauty the 18 transition to sublimity is easy and 19 favourable; but the reverse is not so; 20 for, after the faculties have been raised been elevated raised 21 by communion with the sublime, they by communion with the sublime, they 22 are indisposed to humbler excitement. excitement.* [Note added] 23 24 [New footnote] The only instances to 25 which the foregoing observations do 26 not apply, are Derwent-water and 27 Loweswater. Derwent is distinguished 28 from all the other Lakes by being 29 surrounded with sublimity: the 30 fantastic mountains of Borrowdale to 31 the south, the solitary majesty of 32 Skiddaw to the north, the bold Steeps 33 of Wallow-crag and Lodore to the east, 34 and to the west the clustering 35 mountains of Newlands. Loweswater is 36 tame at the head, but towards its outlet 37 has a magnificent assemblage of 38 mountains. Yet as far as respects the 39 formation of such receptacles, the 40 general observation holds good, 41 neither Derwent nor Loweswater 42 derive any supplies from the streams of 43 those mountains that dignify the 44 landscape towards the outlets. 85 1 It is not likely that a mountain will be 2 ascended without disappointment if a 3 wide range of prospect be the object, 4 unless either the summit be reached 5 before sun-rise, or the visitant remains 6 there until the time of sun-set, and 7 afterwards. The precipitous sides of the 8 mountain, and the neighbouring 9 summits, may be seen with effect 10 under any atmosphere which allows 11 them to be seen at all; but he is the 12 most fortunate adventurer who 13 chances to be involved in vapours 14 which open and let in an extent of 15 country partially, or, dispersing 16 suddenly, reveal the whole region from 17 centre to circumference. 86 1 [Para. added in 3rd. ed.] A stranger to a mountainous country 2 may not be aware that his walk in the 3 early morning, ought to be taken on 4 the eastern side of the vale, otherwise 5 he will lose the morning light, first 6 touching the tops, and thence creeping 7 down the sides of the opposite hills, as 8 the sun ascends, or he may go to some 9 central eminence, commanding both 10 the shadows from the eastern, and the 11 lights upon the western, mountains. 12 But, if the horizon line in the east be 13 low, the western side may be taken for 14 the sake of the reflections, upon the 15 water, of light from the rising sun. In 16 the evening, for like reasons, the 17 contrary course should be taken. 87 1 After all, it is upon the mind which a 2 Traveller brings along with him that 3 his acquisitions, whether of pleasure or 4 profit, must principally depend. — 5 May I be allowed a concluding word allowed a few words concluding word 6 upon this subject? 88 1 Nothing is more injurious to genuine 2 feeling than the practice of hastily and 3 ungraciously depreciating the face of 4 one country by comparing it with that 5 of another. True it is, Qui bene 6 distinguit bene docet; yet 7 fastidiousness is a wretched travelling 8 companion; and the best guide to 9 which in matters of taste we can 10 entrust ourselves, is a disposition to be 11 pleased. For example, if a Traveller be 12 among the Alps, let him surrender up 13 his mind to the fury of the gigantic 14 torrents, and take delight in the 15 contemplation of their almost 16 irresistible violence, without 17 complaining of the monotony of their 18 foaming course, or being disgusted 19 with the muddiness of the water — 20 apparent wherever it is unagitated. In apparent even where wherever it is 21 Cumberland and Westmorland let not violently agitated unagitated 22 the comparative weakness of the 23 streams prevent him from 24 sympathising with such impetuosity as 25 they possess; and, making the most of most of the present 26 present objects, let him, as he justly 27 may do, observe with admiration the 28 unrivalled brilliancy of the Water, and 29 that variety of motion, mood, and 30 character, that arises out of the want of 31 those resources by which the power of 32 the streams in the Alps is supported. 33 — Again, with respect to the 34 mountains; though these are 35 comparatively of diminutive size, 36 though there is little of perpetual 37 snow, and no voice of summer- 38 avalanches is heard among them; and 39 though traces left by the ravage of the 40 elements are here comparatively rare 41 and unimpressive, yet out of this very 42 deficiency proceeds a sense of stability 43 and permanence that is, to many 44 minds, more grateful — 45 46 “While the coarse rushes to the sweeping breeze 47 Sigh forth their ancient melodies." 48 See the Ode, Pass of Kirkstone. See the Ode, Pass of Kirkstone. 89 1 Among the Alps are few places that do 2 not preclude this feeling of tranquil 3 sublimity. Havoc, and ruin, and 4 desolation, and encroachment, are 5 every where more or less obtruded; and 6 it is difficult, notwithstanding the 7 naked loftiness of the Pikes, and the 8 snow-capped summits of the Mounts, 9 to escape from the depressing sensation 10 that the whole are in a rapid process of 11 dissolution, and, were it not that the 12 destructive agency must abate as the 13 heights diminish, would, in time to 14 come, be levelled with the plains. 15 Nevertheless I would relish to the 16 utmost the demonstrations of every 17 species of power at work to effect such 18 changes. 90 1 From these general views let us 2 descend a moment to detail. A stranger 3 to mountain scenery naturally on his mountain imagery scenery naturally 4 first arrival looks out for sublimity in 5 every object that admits of it; and is 6 almost always disappointed. For this 7 disappointment there exists, I believe, 8 no general preventive; nor is it 9 desirable that there should. But, with 10 regard to one class of objects, there is a 11 point in which injurious expectations 12 may be easily corrected. It is generally 13 supposed that waterfalls are scarcely 14 worth being looked at except after 15 much rain, and that, the more swollen 16 the stream, the more fortunate the 17 spectator; but this is true only of large but this however is true 18 cataracts with sublime 19 accompaniments; and not even of 20 these without some drawbacks. drawbacks. In other 21 [Sentence added in 4th ed.] instances, what becomes, at such a 22 ↓ time, of that sense of refreshing 23 coolness which can only be felt in dry 24 and sunny weather, when the rocks, 25 herbs, and flowers glisten with 26 moisture diffused by the breath of the 27 precipitous water? But, considering 28 these things as objects of sight only, it 29 The principal may be observed that the principal 30 charm of the smaller waterfalls or 31 cascades, consists in certain 32 proportions of form and affinities of 33 colour, among the component parts of 34 the scene, and in the contrast 35 maintained between the falling water 36 and that which is apparently at rest; or 37 rather settling gradually into quiet, in 38 the pool below. Peculiarly, also, is the below. Peculiarly, also, is The 39 beauty of such a scene, where there is 40 naturally so much agitation, agitation is also 41 heightened, here by the glimmering, heightened, in a peculiar manner here, 42 and, towards the verge of the pool, by by 43 the steady reflection of the 44 surrounding images. Now, all those 45 delicate distinctions are destroyed by 46 heavy floods, and the whole stream 47 rushes along in foam and tumultuous 48 confusion. I will conclude with confusion. I will conclude with 49 observing, that a happy proportion of observing, that A happy 50 component parts is generally is indeed generally 51 noticeable among the landscapes of the 52 North of England; and, in this 53 characteristic essential to a perfect 54 picture, they surpass the scenes of 55 Scotland, and, in a still greater degree, 56 those of Switzerland. 57 THE END. THE END. 91 1 [New paragraphs in 3rd. ed.] As a resident among the Lakes, I 2 frequently hear the scenery of this 3 country compared with that of the 4 Alps; and therefore a few words shall 5 be added to what has been incidentally 6 said upon that subject. 92 1 If we could recall, to this region of 2 lakes, the native pine-forests, with 3 which many hundred years ago a large 4 portion of the heights was covered, 5 then, during spring and autumn, it 6 might frequently, with much 7 propriety, be compared to 8 Switzerland,—the elements of the 9 landscape would be the same—one 10 country representing the other in 11 miniature. Villages, churches, rural miniature. Towns, villages, churches 12 seats, bridges and roads; green 13 meadows and arable grounds, with 14 their various produce, and deciduous 15 woods of diversified foliage which 16 occupy the vales and lower regions of 17 the mountains, would, as in 18 Switzerland, be divided by dark forests 19 from ridges and round-topped heights 20 covered with snow, and from pikes and 21 sharp declivities imperfectly arrayed in 22 the same glittering mantle: and the 23 resemblance would be still more 24 perfect on those days when vapours 25 resting upon, and floating around the 26 summits, leave the elevation of the 27 mountains less dependent upon the eye 28 than on the imagination. But the pine- 29 forests have wholly disappeared; and 30 only during late Spring and early 31 Autumn is realized here that 32 assemblage of the imagery of different 33 seasons, which is exhibited through the 34 whole summer among the Alps, — 35 winter in the distance, — and warmth, 36 leafy woods, verdure and fertility at 37 hand, — and widely diffused. 93 1 Striking, then, from among the 2 permanent materials of the landscape, 3 that stage of vegetation which is 4 occupied by pine-forests, and, above 5 that, the perennial snows, we have 6 mountains, the highest of which little 7 exceed 3000 feet, while some of the 8 Alps do not fall short of 14,000 or 9 15,000, and 8,000 or 10,000 is not an 10 uncommon elevation. Our tracts of 11 wood and water are almost as 12 diminutive in comparison; therefore, 13 as far as sublimity is dependent upon 14 absolute bulk and height, and 15 atmospherical influences in connection 16 with these, it is obvious, that there can 17 be no rivalship. But a short residence 18 among the British Mountains will 19 furnish abundant proof, that, after a 20 certain point, the sense of sublimity certain point of elevation, viz. that 21 ↓ which allows of compact and fleecy 22 clouds settling upon, or sweeping over, 23 the summits, the sense of sublimity 24 depends more upon form and relation depends 25 of objects to each other than upon 26 their actual magnitude; and, that an 27 elevation of 3000 feet is sufficient to 28 call forth in a most impressive degree 29 the creative and magnifying powers of magnifying, and softening powers 30 the atmosphere; so that, on the score atmosphere; so that. Hence, on the 31 even of sublimity, the superiority of 32 the Alps is by no means so great as 33 might hastily be inferred; — and, as to 34 the beauty of the lower regions of the 35 Swiss Mountains, it is noticeable— 36 that, as they are all regularly mown, 37 their surface has nothing of that 38 mellow tone and variety of hues by 39 which mountain turf, that is never 40 touched by the scythe, is distinguished. 41 On the smooth and steep slopes of the 42 Swiss hills, these plots of verdure do 43 indeed indeed agreeably unite their colour 44 ↓ with that of the deciduous trees, or 45 make a lively contrast of colour, with make a lively contrast of colour, with 46 the dark green pine-groves that define 47 them, and among which, they run in 48 endless variety of shapes—but this is 49 most pleasing at first sight; the 50 permanent gratification of the eye 51 requires finer gradations of tone, and a 52 more delicate blending of hues into 53 each other. Besides, it is only in Spring 54 and late Autumn that cattle animate by 55 their presence the Swiss lawns; and, 56 though the pastures of the higher 57 regions where they feed during the 58 Summer are left in their natural state 59 of flowery herbage, those pastures are 60 so remote, that their texture and 61 colour are of no consequence in the 62 composition of any picture in which a 63 lake of the Vales is a feature. Yet in 64 those lofty regions, how vegetation is 65 invigorated by the genial climate of 66 that country! Among the luxuriant 67 flowers there met with, groves, or 68 forests, if I may so call them, of 69 Monks-hood are frequently seen; the 70 plant of deep, rich blue, and as tall as 71 in our gardens; and this at an elevation 72 where, in Cumberland, Icelandic moss 73 would only be found, or the stony 74 summits be utterly bare. 94 1 We have, then, for the colouring of 2 Switzerland, principally a vivid green 3 herbage, black woods, and dazzling 4 snows, presented in masses with a 5 grandeur to which no one can be 6 insensible; but not often graduated by 7 Nature into soothing harmony, and so 8 ill suited to the pencil, that though 9 abundance of good subjects may be 10 there found, they are not such as can 11 be deemed characteristic of the 12 country; nor is this unfitness confined 13 to colour: the forms of the mountains, 14 though many of them in some points 15 of view the noblest that can be 16 conceived, are apt to run into spikes 17 and needles, and present a jagged 18 outline which has a mean effect, 19 transferred to canvas. This must have 20 been felt by the ancient masters; for, if 21 I am not mistaken, they have not left a 22 single landscape, the materials of 23 which are taken from the peculiar 24 features of the Alps; yet Titian passed 25 his life almost in their neighbourhood; 26 the Poussins and Claude must have 27 been well acquainted with their 28 aspects; and several admirable painters, 29 as Tibaldi and Luino, were born 30 among the Italian Alps. A few 31 experiments have lately been made by 32 Englishmen, but they only prove that 33 courage, skill, and judgment, may 34 surmount any obstacles; and it may be 35 safely affirmed, that they who have 36 done best in this bold adventure, will 37 be the least likely to repeat the 38 attempt. But, though our scenes are 39 better suited to painting than those of 40 the Alps, I should be sorry to 41 contemplate either country in 42 reference to that art, further than as its 43 fitness or unfitness for the pencil 44 renders it more or less pleasing to the 45 eye of the spectator, who has learned 46 to observe and feel, chiefly from 47 Nature herself. 95 1 Deeming the points in which Alpine 2 imagery is superior to British too 3 obvious to be insisted upon, I will 4 observe that the deciduous woods, 5 though in many places unapproachable 6 by the axe, and triumphing in the 7 pomp and prodigality of Nature, have, 8 in general,* [Note 1] neither the 9 variety nor beauty which would exist 10 in those of the Mountains of Britain, if 11 left to themselves. Magnificent walnut- 12 trees grow upon the plains of 13 Switzerland; and fine trees, of that 14 species, are found scattered over the 15 hill-sides: birches also grow here and 16 there, in luxuriant beauty; but neither 17 these, nor oaks, are ever a prevailing 18 tree, nor can even be said to be 19 common; and the oaks, as far as I had 20 an opportunity of observing, are 21 greatly inferior to those of Britain. 22 Among the interior vallies, the 23 proportion of beeches and pines is so 24 great that other trees are scarcely 25 noticeable; and surely such woods are 26 at all seasons much less agreeable than 27 that rich and harmonious distribution 28 of oak, ash, elm, birch, and alder, that 29 formerly clothed the sides of Snowdon 30 and Helvellyn; and of which no mean 31 remains still survive at the head of 32 Ullswater. On the Italian side of the 33 Alps, chesnut and walnut-trees grow to 34 a considerable height on the 35 mountains; but, even there, the foliage 36 is not equal in beauty to the natural 37 product of this climate. 38 [Several new sentences in 4th ed.] In fact the sunshine of the South of 39 ↓ Europe, so envied when heard of at a 40 distance, is in many respects injurious 41 to rural beauty, particularly as it 42 incites to the cultivation of spots of 43 ground which in colder climates would 44 be left in the hands of nature, 45 favouring at the same time the culture 46 of plants that are more valuable on 47 account of the fruit they produce to 48 gratify the palate, than for affording 49 pleasure to the eye, as materials of 50 landscape. Take, for instance, the 51 Promontory of Bellagio, so fortunate 52 in its command of the three branches 53 of the Lake of Como, yet the ridge of 54 the Promontory itself, being for the 55 most part covered with vines 56 interspersed with olive trees, accords 57 but ill with the vastness of the green 58 unappropriated mountains, and 59 derogates not a little from the 60 sublimity of those finely contrasted 61 pictures to which it is a foreground. 62 The vine, when cultivated upon a large 63 scale, notwithstanding all that may be 64 said of it in poetry,* [Note 2] makes 65 but a dull formal appearance in 66 landscape; and the olive tree (though 67 one is loth to say so) is not more 68 grateful to the eye than our common 69 willow, which it much resembles; but 70 the hoariness of hue, common to both, 71 has in the aquatic plant an appropriate 72 delicacy, harmonising with the 73 situation in which it most delights. 74 The same may no doubt be said of the 75 olive among the dry rocks of Attica, 76 but I am speaking of it as found in 77 gardens and vineyards in the North of 78 Italy. At Bellagio, what Englishman 79 can resist the temptation of 80 substituting, in his fancy, for these 81 formal treasures of cultivation, the 82 natural variety of one of our parks—its 83 pastured lawns, coverts of hawthorn, 84 of wild rose, and honeysuckle, and the 85 majesty of forest trees?— such wild 86 graces as the banks of Derwent-water 87 shewed in the time of the Ratcliffes; 88 and Gowbarrow Park, Lowther, and 89 Rydal do at this day. 90 91 [Footnote 1] *The greatest variety of 92 trees is found in the Valais. 93 94 [Footnote 2] * Lucretius has 95 charmingly described a scene of this 96 kind. 97 98 "Inque dies magis in montem succedere sylvas 99 Cogebant, infraque locum concedere cultis: 100 Prata, lacus, rivos, segetes, vinetaque laeta 101 Collibus et campis ut haberent, atque olearum 102 Caerula distinguens inter plaga currere posset 103 Per tumulus, et convalleis, camposque profusa: 104 Ut nunc esse vides vario distincta lepore 105 Omnia, quae pomis intersita dulcibus ornant, 106 Arbustique tenent felicibus obsita circum." 96 1 As my object is to reconcile a Briton to 2 the scenery of his own country, though 3 not at the expence of truth, I am not 4 afraid of asserting that in many points 5 of view, our Lakes also are much more 6 interesting than those of the Alps; first, 7 as is implied above, from being more 8 happily proportioned to the other 9 features of the landscape, and next, 10 both as being infinitely more pellucid, 11 and less subject to agitation from the 12 winds. Como (which may perhaps be winds.* [Note added] Como 13 styled the King of Lakes, as Lugano is 14 certainly the Queen) is disturbed by a 15 periodical wind blowing from the head 16 in the morning, and towards it in the 17 afternoon. The magnificent Lake of 18 the four Cantons, especially its noblest 19 division, called the Lake of Uri, is not 20 only much agitated by winds, but in 21 the night time is disturbed from the 22 bottom, as I was told, and indeed as I 23 witnessed, without any apparent 24 commotion in the air; and, when at 25 rest, the water is not pure to the eye, 26 but of a heavy green hue,—as is that of 27 all the other lakes apparently, 28 according to the degree in which they 29 are fed by melted snows. If the Lake of 30 Geneva furnishes an exception, this is 31 probably owing to its vast extent which 32 allows the water to deposit its 33 impurities. The water of the English 34 Lakes, on the contrary, being of a 35 crystalline clearness, the reflections of 36 the surrounding hills are frequently so 37 lively, that it is scarcely possible to 38 distinguish the point where the real 39 object terminates, and its unsubstantial 40 duplicate begins. The lower part of the 41 Lake of Geneva, from its narrowness, 42 must be much less subject to agitation 43 than the higher divisions, and, as the 44 water is clearer than that of the other 45 Swiss Lakes, it may exhibit this Lakes, it will frequently may exhibit 46 appearance, though it is not possible in though it is scarcely not possible 47 an equal degree. During two 48 comprehensive Tours among the Alps, 49 I did not observe, except on one of the 50 smaller Lakes, between Lugano and 51 Ponte Tresa, a single instance of those 52 beautiful repetitions of the repetitions of the surrounding 53 surrounding scenery on the bosom of objects scenery on the bosom 54 the water, which are so frequently seen 55 here: not to speak of the fine dazzling 56 trembling net-work, breezy motions, 57 and streaks and circles of intermingled 58 smooth and rippled water, which make 59 the surface of our Lakes a field of 60 endless variety. But among the Alps 61 where every thing tends to the grand 62 and the sublime, in surfaces as well as 63 in forms, if the Lakes do not court the 64 placid reflections of land objects, those 65 of first-rate magnitude make 66 compensation, in some degree, by 67 exhibiting those ever-changing fields of 68 green, blue, and purple shadows or 69 lights, (one scarcely knows which to 70 name them) that call to mind a sea- 71 prospect contemplated from a lofty 72 cliff. 73 74 [New footnote] *It is remarkable that 75 Como (as is probably the case with 76 other Italian Lakes) is more troubled 77 by storms in summer than in winter. 78 Hence the propriety of the following 79 verses. 80 81 “Lari! margine ubique confragoso 82 Nulli coelicolum negas sacellum 83 Picto pariete saxeoque tecto; 84 Hinc miracula multa navitarum 85 Audis, nec placido refellis ore, 86 Sed nova usque paras, Noto vel Euro 87 Aestivas quatientibus cavernas, 88 Vel surgentis ab Adduae cubili 89 Caeco grandinis imbre provoluto.” 90 Landor. 97 1 The subject of torrents and water falls 2 has already been touched upon; but it 3 may be added that the perpetual added that in Switzerland, the perpetual 4 accompaniment of snow upon the 5 higher regions, takes much from the 6 effect of foaming white streams; while, 7 from their frequency, they obstruct in they obstruct in 8 some degree each other's influence some degree each other’s 9 upon the mind of the spectator; and, 10 in all cases, the effect of an individual 11 cataract, excepting the great Fall of the 12 Rhine at Schaffhausen, is diminished 13 by the general fury of the stream of 14 which it is a part. 98 1 Recurring to the reflexions from still 2 water, I will describe a singular 3 phenomenon of this kind of which I 4 was an eye-witness. 99 1 Walking by the side of Ullswater upon 2 a calm September morning, I saw, 3 deep within the bosom of the lake, a 4 magnificent Castle, with towers and 5 battlements; nothing could be more 6 distinct than the whole edifice; — 7 after gazing with delight upon it for 8 some time, as upon a work of 9 enchantment, I could not but regret 10 that my previous knowledge of the 11 place enabled me to account for the 12 appearance. It was in fact the reflexion 13 of a pleasure-house called Lyulph's 14 Tower—the towers and battlements 15 magnified and so much changed in 16 shape as not to be immediately 17 recognized. In the meanwhile, the 18 pleasure-house itself was altogether 19 hidden from my view by a body of 20 vapour stretching over it and along the 21 hill-side on which it stands, but not so 22 as to have intercepted its 23 communication with the lake; and 24 hence this novel and most impressive 25 object, which if I had been a stranger 26 to the spot, would, from its being 27 inexplicable, have long detained the 28 mind in a state of pleasing astonishment. 100 1 An appearance of this kind, acting An appearance Appearances of this kind 2 upon the credulity of early ages, may 3 have given birth to the stories of given birth to, and favoured the belief 4 subaqueous palaces, gardens, and in, stories 5 pleasure-grounds — the brilliant 6 ornaments of Romance. 101 1 With this inverted scene I will couple a 2 much more extraordinary 3 phenomenon, which may shew how which will may shew 4 other elegant fancies may have had 5 their origin, less in invention than in 6 the actual processes of Nature. 102 1 About eleven o’clock on the forenoon 2 of a winter’s day, coming suddenly, in 3 company of a friend, into view of the 4 Lake of Grasmere, we were alarmed by 5 the sight of a newly-created Island; the 6 transitory thought of the moment was, 7 that it had been produced by an 8 earthquake or some other convulsion 9 of nature. Recovering from the alarm, 10 which was greater than the reader can 11 possibly sympathize with, but which 12 was shared to its full extent by my 13 companion, we proceeded to examine 14 the object before us. The elevation of 15 this new island exceeded considerably 16 that of the old one, its neighbour; it 17 was likewise larger in circumference, 18 comprehending a space of about five 19 acres; its surface rocky, speckled with 20 snow, and sprinkled over with birch- 21 trees; it was divided towards the south 22 from the other island by a narrow 23 frith, and in like manner from the 24 northern shore of the lake: on the east 25 and west it was separated from the 26 shore by a much larger space of 27 smooth water. 103 1 Marvellous was the illusion! 2 Comparing the new with the old 3 Island, the surface of which is soft, 4 green, and unvaried, I do not scruple 5 to say that, as an object of sight, it was 6 much the more distinct. “How little 7 faith,” we exclaimed, “is due to one 8 sense, unless its evidence be confirmed 9 by some of its fellows. What Stranger 10 could possibly be persuaded that this, 11 which we know to be an unsubstantial 12 mockery, is really so; and that there 13 exists only a single Island on this 14 beautiful Lake?” At length the 15 appearance underwent a gradual 16 transmutation; it lost its prominence 17 and passed into a glimmering and dim 18 inversion, and then totally 19 disappeared;—leaving behind it a clear 20 open area of ice of the same 21 dimensions. We now perceived that 22 this bed of ice, which was thinly 23 suffused with water, had produced the 24 illusion, by reflecting and refracting (as 25 persons skilled in optics would no 26 doubt easily explain) a rocky and 27 woody section of the opposite 28 mountain named Silver How. 104 1 Having dwelt so much upon the 2 beauty of pure and still water, and 3 pointed out the advantage which the 4 Lakes of the North of England have in 5 this particular over those of the Alps, it 6 would be injustice not to advert to the 7 sublimity that must often be given to 8 Alpine scenes, by the agitations to 9 which these vast bodies of diffused 10 water are there subject. I have 11 witnessed many tremendous thunder- 12 storms among the Alps, and the most 13 glorious effects of light and shadow; 14 but I never happened to be present 15 when any Lake was agitated by those 16 hurricanes which I imagine must often 17 torment them. If the commotions be at 18 all proportionable to the expanse and 19 depth of the waters and the height of 20 the surrounding mountains, then, if I 21 may judge from what is frequently seen 22 here, the exhibition must be awful and 23 astonishing.—On this day, March 30, 24 1822, the winds have been acting upon 25 the small Lake of Rydal, as if they had 26 received command to carry its waters 27 from their bed into the sky; the white 28 billows in different quarters 29 disappeared under clouds, or rather 30 drifts, of spray, that were whirled 31 along and up into the air by scouring 32 winds, charging each other in 33 squadrons in every direction, upon the 34 Lake. The spray, having been hurried 35 aloft till it lost its consistency and 36 whiteness, was driven along the 37 mountain-tops like flying showers that 38 vanish in the distance. Frequently an 39 eddying wind scooped the waters out 40 of the basin, and forced them upwards 41 in the very shape of an Icelandic 42 Geyser, or boiling fountain, to the height 43 height of 800 or 900 feet. of several hundred 800 or 900 feet. 105 1 This small Mere of Rydal, from its 2 position, is subject in a peculiar degree 3 to these commotions. The present 4 season, however, is unusually 5 stormy;—great numbers of fish, two of 6 them not less than 12 pounds weight, 7 were a few days ago cast on the shores 8 of Derwent-water by the force of the 9 waves. 106 1 Lest, in the foregoing comparative 2 estimate, I should be suspected of 3 partiality to my native mountains, I 4 will support my general opinion by the 5 authority of Mr. West, whose Guide to 6 the Lakes has been eminently 7 serviceable to the Tourist for nearly 50 8 years. The Author, a Roman Catholic 9 Clergyman, had passed much time 10 abroad, and was well acquainted with 11 the scenery of the Continent. He thus 12 expresses himself: “They who intend to 13 make the Continental tour should 14 begin here; as it will give, in miniature, 15 an idea of what they are to meet with 16 there, in traversing the Alps and 17 Appenines; to which our northern 18 mountains are not inferior in beauty of 19 line, or variety of summit, number of 20 lakes, and transparency of water; not 21 in colouring of rock, or softness of 22 turf; but in height and extent only. 23 The mountains here are all accessible 24 to the summit, and furnish prospects 25 no less surprizing, and with more 26 variety, than the Alps themselves. The 27 tops of the highest Alps are 28 inaccessible, being covered with 29 everlasting snow, which commencing 30 at regular heights above the cultivated 31 tracts, or wooded and verdant sides, 32 form indeed the highest contrast in 33 nature. For there may be seen all the 34 variety of climate in one view. To this, 35 however, we oppose the sight of the 36 ocean, from the summits of all the 37 higher mountains, as it appears 38 intersected with promontories, 39 decorated with islands, and animated 40 with navigation.”—West's Guide, p. 5. [No section break in 3rd ed.] EXCURSIONS TO THE TOP OF SCAWFELL AND ON THE BANKS OF ULSWATER. 107 1 It was my intention, several years ago, 2 to describe a regular tour through this 3 country, taking the different scenes in 4 the most favourable order; but after 5 some progress had been made in the 6 work it was abandoned from a 7 conviction, that, if well executed, it 8 would lessen the pleasure of the 9 Traveller by anticipation, and, if the 10 contrary, it would only mislead him. would only mislead him 11 The Reader may not however be 12 displeased with the following extract 13 from a letter to a Friend, giving an 14 account of a visit to a summit of one 15 of the highest of these mountains; of 16 which I am reminded by the 17 observations of Mr. West, and by 18 reviewing what has been said of this 19 district in comparison with the Alps. 108 1 Having left Rossthwaite in 2 Borrowdale, on a bright morning in 3 the first week of October, we ascended 4 from Seathwaite to the top of the 5 ridge, called Ash-course, and thence 6 beheld three distinct views. On one 7 side, the continuous Vale of 8 Borrowdale, Keswick, and 9 Bassenthwaite,—with Skiddaw, 10 Helvellyn, Saddleback, and numerous 11 other mountains,—and, in the 12 distance, the Solway Frith and the 13 Mountains of Scotland. On the other 14 side, and below us, the Langdale 15 Pikes—their own vale below them; — 16 Windermere, — and, far beyond 17 Windermere, Ingleborough in 18 Yorkshire. But how shall I speak of the 19 deliciousness of the third prospect! At 20 this time, that was most favoured by 21 sunshine and shade. The green Vale of 22 Esk—deep and green, with its 23 glittering serpent stream, was below us; stream, lay was below us 24 and, on we looked to the Mountains 25 near the Sea —Black Comb pre- 26 eminent,—and, still beyond, to the Sea 27 itself in dazzling brightness. Turning 28 round we saw the Mountains of 29 Wastdale in tumult; to our right, 30 Great Gavel, the loftiest, a distinct, 31 and huge form, though the middle of 32 the mountain was, to our eyes, as its 33 base. 109 1 We had attained the object of this 2 journey; but our ambition now 3 mounted higher. We saw the summit 4 of Scaw-fell, apparently very near to 5 us; and we shaped our course towards 6 it; but, discovering that it could not be 7 reached without first making a 8 considerable descent, we resolved, 9 instead, to aim at another point of the 10 same mountain, called the Pikes, 11 which I have since found has been 12 estimated as higher than the summit 13 bearing the name of Scawfell Head, 14 where the Stone Man is built. 110 1 The sun had never once been 2 overshadowed by a cloud during the 3 whole of our progress from the centre 4 of Borrowdale: — on the summit of 5 the Pike, which we gained after much 6 toil though without difficulty, there 7 was not a breath of air to stir even the 8 papers containing our refreshment, as 9 they lay spread out upon a rock. The 10 stillness seemed to be not of this 11 world: — we paused, and kept silence 12 to listen; and no sound could be heard: 13 the Scawfell Cataracts were voiceless to 14 us; and there was not an insect to hum 15 in the air. The vales which we had seen 16 from Ash-course lay yet in view; and, 17 side by side with Eskdale, we now saw 18 the sister Vale of Donnerdale 19 terminated by the Duddon Sands. But 20 the majesty of the mountains below, 21 and close to us, is not to be conceived. 22 We now beheld the whole mass of 23 Great Gavel from its base,—the Den 24 of Wastdale at our feet— a gulph 25 immeasurable: Grasmire and the other 26 mountains of Crummock.— Ennerdale 27 and its mountains; and the Sea the Sea beyond! We sat down 28 beyond! Gladly would we have to our repast, and gladly would we 29 tempered our beverage (for there was 30 no spring or well near us) with such a 31 supply of delicious water as we might 32 have procured, had we been on the 33 rival summit of Great Gavel; for on its 34 highest point is a small triangular 35 receptacle of water in the native rock, receptacle of water in the native rock 36 which, the shepherds say, is never dry. 37 There, we might have slaked our thirst 38 plenteously with a pure and 39 celestial beverage, for the cup or basin, celestial liquid beverage, for the cup 40 it appears, has no other feeder than the 41 dews of heaven, the showers, the 42 vapours, the hoar frost, and the 43 spotless snow. While we were gazing 44 around, “Look,” I exclaimed, “at yon 45 ship upon the glittering sea!” “Is it a 46 Ship?” replied our Shepherd-guide. “It 47 can be nothing else,” interposed my 48 companion; “I cannot be mistaken, I 49 am so accustomed to the appearance of 50 Ships at sea.” The Guide dropped the 51 argument; but, before a minute was 52 gone, he quietly said, “Now look at 53 your Ship; it is changed into a Horse.” 54 So indeed it was,—a horse with a 55 gallant neck and head. We laughed 56 heartily; and, I hope, when again 57 inclined to be positive, I may 58 remember the Ship and the Horse 59 upon the glittering Sea; and the calm 60 confidence, yet submissiveness, of our 61 wise Man of the Mountains, who 62 certainly had more knowledge of 63 clouds than we, whatever might be our 64 knowledge of ships. 111 1 I know not how long we might have 2 remained on the summit of the Pike, 3 without a thought of moving, had not 4 our guide warned us that we must not 5 linger; for a storm was coming. We 6 looked in vain to espy the signs of it. 7 Mountains, vales, and sea were 8 touched with the clear light of the sun. 9 “It is there,” he said, pointing to the there,” said he, pointing 10 sea beyond Whitehaven, and there we 11 perceived a light vapour unnoticeable 12 but by a Shepherd accustomed to 13 watch all mountain bodings. We gazed 14 around again, and yet again, unwilling 15 to lose the remembrance of what lay 16 before us in that lofty solitude; and 17 then prepared to depart. Meanwhile 18 the air changed to cold, and we saw 19 that tiny vapour swelled into mighty 20 masses of cloud which came boiling 21 over the mountains. Great Gavel, 22 Helvellyn, and Skiddaw, were wrapped 23 in storm; yet Langdale, and the 24 mountains in that quarter, remained 25 all bright in sunshine. Soon the storm 26 reached us; we sheltered under a crag; 27 and almost as rapidly as it had come it 28 passed away, and left us free to observe 29 the struggles of gloom and sunshine in 30 other quarters. Langdale now had its 31 share, and the Pikes of Langdale were 32 decorated by two splendid Rainbows; 33 Skiddaw also had its own Rainbows. Skiddaw also had his its own Rainbows 34 Before we again reached Ash-course 35 every cloud had vanished from every 36 summit. 112 1 I ought to have mentioned that round 2 the top of Scawfell Pike not a blade of 3 grass is to be seen. A few cushions or seen. A few Cushions 4 tufts of moss, parched and brown, 5 appear between the huge blocks and 6 stones that lie in heaps on all sides to a 7 great distance, like skeletons or bones 8 of the earth not needed at the creation, 9 and there left to be covered with 10 never-dying lichens, which the clouds 11 and dews nourish; and adorn with 12 colours of vivid and exquisite beauty. 13 Flowers, the most brilliant feathers, 14 and even gems, scarcely surpass in 15 colouring some of those masses of 16 stone, which no human eye beholds, 17 except the Shepherd or Traveller be led 18 thither by curiosity: and how seldom 19 must this happen! For the other 20 Eminence is the one visited by the 21 adventurous Traveller; and the the adventurous Stranger Traveller; and 22 Shepherd has no inducement to ascend 23 the Pike in quest of his Sheep; for no Sheep; for no 24 food is there to tempt them. food being is there 113 1 We certainly were singularly favoured 2 in the weather; for when we were 3 seated on the summit, our Conductor, 4 turning his eyes thoughtfully round, 5 said, "I do not know that in my whole 6 life, I was ever, at any season of the 7 year, so high upon the mountains on 8 so calm a day." (It was the 7th of 9 October.) Afterwards we had the Afterwards we had a spectacle of the 10 storm, which exhibited the grandeur of storm, which exhibited the grandeur of 11 the earth and heavens commingled; yet the earth and heaven commingled 12 without terror. We knew that it would 13 pass away; — for so our prophetic 14 Guide had assured us. 114 1 Before we reached Seathwaite in 2 Borrowdale, a few stars had appeared, 3 and we pursued our way down the 4 Vale, to Rossthwaite, by moonlight. 115 1 [Several new paragraphs in 4th ed. and [New para. and poem added in 5th ed.] Scawfell and Helvellyn being the two 2 one more in 5th ed. 3rd ed. resumes with Mountains of this region which will 3 para. 139 below.] best repay the fatigue of ascending 4 them, the following Verses may be 5 here introduced with propriety. They 6 are from the Author's Miscellaneous 7 Poems. 8 9 To ————, 10 ON HER FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 11 OF HELVELLYN. 12 13 INMATE of a Mountain Dwelling, 14 Thou hast clomb aloft, and gazed, 15 From the watch-towers of Helvellyn; 16 Awed, delighted, and amazed! 17 18 Potent was the spell that bound thee 19 Not unwilling to obey; 20 For blue Ether's arms, flung round thee, 21 Stilled the pantings of dismay. 22 23 Lo! the dwindled woods and meadows! 24 What a vast abyss is there! 25 Lo! the clouds, the solemn shadows, 26 And the glistenings—heavenly fair! 27 28 And a record of commotion 29 Which a thousand ridges yield; 30 Ridge, and gulf, and distant ocean 31 Gleaming like a silver shield! 32 33 —Take thy flight;—possess, inherit 34 Alps or Andes—they are thine! 35 With the morning's roseate Spirit, 36 Sweep their length of snowy line; 37 38 Or survey the bright dominions 39 In the gorgeous colours drest 40 Flung from off the purple pinions, 41 Evening spreads throughout the west! 42 43 Thine are all the coral fountains 44 Warbling in each sparry vault 45 Of the untrodden lunar mountains; 46 Listen to their songs!—or halt, 47 48 To Niphate’s top invited, 49 Whither spiteful Satan steered; 50 Or descend where the ark alighted, 51 When the green earth re-appeared: 52 53 For the power of hills is on thee, 54 As was witnessed through thine eye 55 Then, when old Helvellyn won thee 56 To confess their majesty! 116 1 Having said so much of a point of of points a point of 2 view to which few are likely to ascend, 3 I am induced to subjoin an account of 4 a short excursion through more 5 accessible parts of the country, made at 6 a time when it is seldom seen but by 7 the inhabitants. As the journal was 8 written for one acquainted with the 9 general features of the country, only 10 those effects and appearances are dwelt 11 upon, which are produced by the 12 changeableness of the atmosphere, or 13 belong to the season when the 14 excursion was made. 117 1 A. D. 1805.— On the 7th of 2 November, on a damp and gloomy 3 morning, we left Grasmere Vale, 4 intending to pass a few days on the 5 banks of Ulswater. A mild and dry 6 autumn had been unusually favourable 7 to the preservation and beauty of 8 foliage; and, far advanced as the season 9 was, the trees on the larger Island of 10 Rydal-mere retained a splendour 11 which did not need the heightening of 12 sunshine. We noticed, as we passed, 13 that the line of the grey rocky shore of 14 that island, shaggy with variegated 15 bushes and shrubs, and spotted and 16 striped with purplish brown heath, 17 indistinguishably blending with its 18 image reflected in the still water, 19 produced a curious resemblance, both 20 in form and colour, to a richly-coated 21 caterpillar, as it might appear through 22 a magnifying glass of extraordinary 23 power. The mists gathered as we went 24 along: but, when we reached the top of 25 Kirkstone, we were glad we had not 26 been discouraged by the apprehension 27 of bad weather. Though not able to see 28 a hundred yards before us, we were 29 more than contented. At such a time, 30 and in such a place, every scattered 31 stone the size of one's head becomes a 32 companion. Near the top of the pass is 33 the remnant of an old wall, which, 34 (magnified, though obscured, by the 35 vapour) might have been taken for a 36 fragment of some monument of 37 ancient grandeur,—yet that same pile 38 of stones we had never before even 39 observed. This situation, it must be 40 allowed, is not favourable to gaiety; 41 but a pleasing hurry of spirits 42 accompanies the surprize occasioned 43 by objects transformed, dilated, or 44 distorted, as they are when seen 45 through such a medium. Many of the 46 fragments of rock on the top and 47 slopes of Kirkstone, and of similar 48 places are fantastic enough in 49 themselves; but the full effect of such 50 impressions can only be had in a state 51 of weather when they are not likely to 52 be sought for. It was not till we had 53 descended considerably that the fields 54 of Hartshope were seen, like a lake 55 tinged by the reflection of sunny 56 clouds: I mistook them for 57 Brotherswater, but, soon after, we saw 58 that Lake gleaming faintly with a 59 steelly brightness, —then, as we 60 continued to descend, appeared the 61 brown oaks, and the birches of lively 62 yellow—and the cottages—and the 63 lowly flail of Hartshope, with its long 64 roof and ancient chimneys. During 65 great part of our way to Patterdale, we 66 had rain, or rather drizzling vapour; 67 for there was never a drop upon our 68 hair or clothes larger than the smallest 69 pearls upon a lady's ring. 118 1 The following morning, incessant rain 2 till 11 o'clock, when the sky began to 3 clear, and we walked along the eastern 4 shore of Ulswater towards the farm of 5 Blowick. The wind blew strong, and 6 drove the clouds forward, on the side 7 of the mountain above our heads;— 8 two storm-stiffened black yew-trees 9 fixed our notice, seen through, or 10 under the edge of, the flying mists,— 11 four or five goats were bounding 12 among the rocks;—the sheep moved 13 about more quietly, or cowered 14 beneath their sheltering places. This is 15 the only part of the country where 16 goats are now found;* [Note] but this 17 morning, before we had seen these, I 18 was reminded of that picturesque 19 animal by two rams of mountain 20 breed, both with Ammonian horns, 21 and with beards majestic as that which 22 Michael Angelo has given to his statue 23 of Moses. But to return;—when our 24 path had brought us to that part of the 25 naked common which overlooks the 26 woods and bush-besprinkled fields of 27 Blowick, the lake, clouds, and mists 28 were all in motion to the sound of 29 sweeping winds;— the church and 30 cottages of Patterdale scarcely visible, 31 or seen only by fits between the 32 shifting vapours. To the northward the 33 scene was less visionary;— Place Fell 34 steady and bold;—the whole lake 35 driving onward like a great river — 36 waves dancing round the small islands. 37 The house at Blowick was the 38 boundary of our walk; and we 39 returned, lamenting to see a decaying 40 and uncomfortable dwelling in a place 41 where sublimity and beauty seemed to 42 contend with each other. But these 43 regrets were dispelled by a glance on 44 the woods that clothe the opposite 45 steeps of the lake. How exquisite was 46 the mixture of sober and splendid 47 hues! The general colouring of the 48 trees was brown—rather that of ripe 49 hazel nuts: but towards the water, 50 there were yet beds of green, and in 51 the highest parts of the wood, was 52 abundance of yellow foliage, which, 53 gleaming through a vapoury lustre, 54 reminded us of masses of clouds, as 55 you see them gathered together in the 56 west, and touched with the golden 57 light of the setting sun. 58 59 [Note] *A.D. 1805. These also have 60 disappeared. 119 1 After dinner we walked up the Vale: I 2 had never had an idea of its extent and 3 width in passing along the public road 4 on the other side. We followed the 5 path that leads from house to house;— 6 two or three times it took us through 7 some of those copses or groves that 8 cover the little hillocks in the middle 9 of the vale, making an intricate and 10 pleasing intermixture of lawn and 11 wood. Our fancies could not resist the 12 temptation; and we fixed upon a spot 13 for a cottage, which we began to build; 14 and finished as easily as castles are 15 raised in the air.—Visited the same 16 spot in the evening. I shall say nothing 17 of the moonlight aspect of the 18 situation which had charmed us so 19 much in the afternoon; but I wish you 20 had been with us when, in returning to 21 our friend's house, we espied his lady's 22 large white dog, lying in the 23 moonshine upon the round knoll 24 under the old yew-tree in the garden, a 25 romantic image—the dark tree and its 26 dark shadow—and the elegant 27 creature, as fair as a spirit! The 28 torrents murmured softly: the 29 mountains down which they were 30 falling did not, to my sight, furnish a 31 back-ground for this Ossianic picture; 32 but I had a consciousness of the depth 33 of the seclusion, and that mountains 34 were embracing us on all sides; “I saw 35 not, but I felt that they were there.” 120 1 Friday, November 9th.— Rain, as 2 yesterday, till 10 o'clock when we took 3 a boat to row down the lake. The day 4 improved,—clouds and sunny gleams 5 on the mountains. In the large bay 6 under Place Fell, three fishermen were 7 dragging a net, a picturesque group 8 beneath the high and bare crags! A 9 raven was seen aloft; not hovering like 10 the kite, for that is not the habit of the 11 bird; but passing on with a 12 straightforward perseverance, and 13 timing the motion of its wings to its 14 own croaking. The waters were 15 agitated; and the iron tone of the 16 raven’s voice, which strikes upon the 17 ear at all times as the more dolorous 18 from its regularity, was in fine keeping 19 with the wild scene before our eyes. 20 This carnivorous fowl is a great enemy 21 to the lambs of these solitudes; I 22 recollect frequently seeing, when a 23 boy, bunches of unfledged ravens 24 suspended from the churchyard gates 25 of H------for which a reward of so 26 much a head was given to the 27 adventurous destroyer.—The 28 fishermen drew their net ashore, and 29 hundreds of fish were leaping in their 30 prison. They were all of the kind 31 called skellies, a sort of freshwater 32 herring, shoals of which may 33 sometimes be seen dimpling or 34 rippling the surface of the lake in calm 35 weather. This species is not found, I 36 believe, in any other of these lakes; 37 nor, as far as I know, is the chevin, 38 that spiritless fish, (though I am loth 39 to call it so, for it was a prime 40 favourite with Isaac Walton,) which 41 must frequent Ulswater, as I have seen 42 a large shoal passing into the lake from 43 the river Emont. Here are no pike, and 44 the char are smaller than those of the 45 other lakes, and of inferior quality; but 46 the grey trout attains a very large size, 47 sometimes weighing above twenty 48 pounds. This lordly creature seems to 49 know that “retiredness is a piece of 50 majesty;” for it is scarcely ever caught, 51 or even seen, except when it quits the 52 depths of the lake in the spawning 53 season, and runs up into the streams, 54 where it is too often destroyed in 55 disregard of the law of the land and of 56 nature. 121 1 Quitted the boat in the bay of 2 Sandwyke, and pursued our way 3 towards Martindale along a pleasant 4 path—at first through a coppice, 5 bordering the lake, then through green 6 fields—and came to the village, (if 7 village it may be called, for the houses 8 are few, and separated from each 9 other,) a sequestered spot, shut out 10 from the view of the lake. Crossed the 11 one-arched bridge, below the chapel, 12 with its “bare ring of mossy wall,” and 13 single yew-tree. At the last house in 14 the dale we were greeted by the master, 15 who was sitting at his door, with a 16 flock of sheep collected round him, for 17 the purpose of smearing them with tar 18 (according to the custom of the 19 season) for protection against the 20 winter’s cold. He invited us to enter, 21 and view a room built by Mr. Hasell 22 for the accommodation of his friends 23 at the annual chace of red deer in his 24 forests at the head of these dales. The 25 room is fitted up in the sportman’s 26 style, with a cupboard for bottles and 27 glasses, with strong chairs, and a 28 dining-table; and ornamented with the 29 horns of the stags caught at these 30 hunts for a succession of years—the 31 length of the last race each had run 32 being recorded under his spreading 33 antlers. The good woman treated us 34 with oaten cake, new and crisp; and 35 after this welcome refreshment and 36 rest, we proceeded on our return to 37 Patterdale by a short cut over the 38 mountains. On leaving the fields of 39 Sandwyke, while ascending by a gentle 40 slope along the valley of Martindale, 41 we had occasion to observe that in 42 thinly-peopled glens of this character 43 the general want of wood gives a 44 peculiar interest to the scattered 45 cottages embowered in sycamore. 46 Towards its head, this valley splits into 47 two parts; and in one of these (that to 48 the left) there is no house, nor any 49 building to be seen but a cattle-shed 50 on the side of a hill, which is sprinkled 51 over with trees, evidently the remains 52 of an extensive forest. Near the 53 entrance of the other division stands 54 the house where we were entertained, 55 and beyond the enclosures of that farm 56 there are no other. A few old trees 57 remain, relics of the forest, a little 58 stream hastens, though with serpentine 59 windings, through the uncultivated 60 hollow, where many cattle were 61 pasturing. The cattle of this country 62 are generally white, or light coloured; 63 but these were dark brown, or black, 64 which heightened the resemblance this 65 scene bears to many parts of the 66 Highlands of Scotland.—While we 67 paused to rest upon the hillside, 68 though well contented with the quiet 69 everyday sounds—the lowing of cattle, 70 bleating of sheep, and the very gentle 71 murmuring of the valley stream, we 72 could not but think what a grand 73 effect the music of the bugle-horn 74 would have among these mountains. It 75 is still heard once every year, at the 76 chace I have spoken of; a day of 77 festivity for the inhabitants of this 78 district except the poor deer, the most 79 ancient of them all. Our ascent even to 80 the top was very easy; when it was 81 accomplished we had exceedingly fine 82 views, some of the lofty Fells being 83 resplendent with sunshine, and others 84 partly shrouded by clouds. Ulswater, 85 bordered by black steeps, was of 86 dazzling brightness: the plain beyond 87 Penrith smooth and bright, or rather 88 gleamy, as the sea or sea sands, Looked 89 down into Boardale, which, like 90 Stybarrow, has been named from the 91 wild swine that formerly abounded 92 here; but it has now no sylvan covert, 93 being smooth and bare, a long, 94 narrow, deep, cradle-shaped glen, lying 95 so sheltered that one would be pleased 96 to see it planted by human hands, 97 there being a sufficiency of soil; and 98 the trees would be sheltered almost 99 like shrubs in a green-house.—After 100 having walked some way along the top 101 of the hill, came in view of Glenriddin 102 and the mountains at the head of 103 Grisdale. — Before we began to 104 descend, turned aside to a small ruin, 105 called at this day the chapel, where it 106 is said the inhabitants of Martindale 107 and Patterdale were accustomed to 108 assemble for worship. There are now 109 no traces from which you could infer 110 for what use the building had been 111 erected; the loose stones and the few 112 which yet continue piled up resemble 113 those which lie elsewhere on the 114 mountain; but the shape of the 115 building having been oblong, its 116 remains differ from those of a 117 common sheepfold; and it has stood 118 east and west. Scarcely did the Druids, 119 when they fled to these fastnesses, 120 perform their rites in any situation 121 more exposed to disturbance from the 122 elements. One cannot pass by without 123 being reminded that the rustic 124 psalmody must have had the 125 accompaniment of many a wildly- 126 whistling blast; and what dismal 127 storms must have often drowned the 128 voice of the preacher! As we descend 129 Patterdale opens upon the eye in grand 130 simplicity, skreened by mountains, 131 and proceeding from two heads, 132 Deepdale and Hartshope, where lies 133 the little lake of Brotherswater, named 134 in old maps Broaderwater, and 135 probably rightly so; for Bassenthwaite 136 Mere, at this day, is familiarly called 137 Broadwater; but the change in the 138 appellation of this small lake or pool 139 (if it be a corruption) may have been 140 assisted by some melancholy accident 141 similar to what happened about twenty 142 years ago, when two brothers were 143 drowned there, having gone out to 144 take their holiday pleasure upon the 145 ice on a new-year’s day. 122 1 A rough and precipitous peat track 2 brought us down to our friend’s 3 house.—Another fine moonlight 4 night; but a thick fog rising from the 5 neighbouring river, enveloped the 6 rocky and wood-crested knoll on 7 which our fancy-cottage had been 8 erected; and, under the damp cast 9 upon my feelings, I consoled myself 10 with moralising on the folly of hasty 11 decisions in matters of importance, 12 and the necessity of having at least one 13 year’s knowledge of a place before you 14 realise airy suggestions in solid stone. 123 1 Saturday, November 10th. At the 2 breakfast-table tidings reached us of 3 the death of Lord Nelson, and of the 4 victory at Trafalgar. Sequestered as we 5 were from the sympathy of a crowd, 6 we were shocked to hear that the bells 7 had been ringing joyously at Penrith to 8 celebrate the triumph. In the rebellion 9 of the year 1745, people fled with 10 their valuables from the open country 11 to Patterdale, as a place of refuge 12 secure from the incursions of strangers. 13 At that time, news such as we had 14 heard might have been long in 15 penetrating so far into the recesses of 16 the mountains; but now, as you know, 17 the approach is easy, and the 18 communication, in summer time, 19 almost hourly: nor is this strange, for 20 travellers after pleasure are become not 21 less active, and more numerous than 22 those who formerly left their homes 23 for purposes of gain. The priest on the 24 banks of the remotest stream of 25 Lapland will talk familiarly of 26 Buonaparte’s last conquests, and 27 discuss the progress of the French 28 revolution, having acquired much of 29 his information from adventurers 30 impelled by curiosity alone. 124 1 The morning was clear and cheerful 2 after a night of sharp frost. At 10 3 o’clock we took our way on foot 4 towards Pooley Bridge, on the same 5 side of the lake we had coasted in a 6 boat the day before.—Looked 7 backwards to the south from our 8 favourite station above Blowick. The 9 dazzling sunbeams striking upon the 10 church and village, while the earth was 11 steaming with exhalations not 12 traceable in other quarters, rendered 13 their forms even more indistinct than 14 the partial and flitting veil of 15 unillumined vapour had done two days 16 before. The grass on which we trod, 17 and the trees in every thicket were 18 dripping with melted hoar-frost. We 19 observed the lemon-coloured leaves of 20 the birches, as the breeze turned them 21 to the sun, sparkle, or rather flash, like 22 diamonds, and the leafless purple twigs 23 were tipped with globes of shining 24 crystal. 125 1 The day continued delightful, and 2 unclouded to the end. I will not 3 describe the country which we slowly 4 travelled through, nor relate our 5 adventures; and will only add, that on 6 the afternoon of the 13th we returned 7 along the banks of Ulswater by the 8 usual road. The lake was in deep The lake lay was in deep 9 repose after the agitations of a wet and 10 stormy morning. The trees in 11 Gowbarrow park were in that state 12 when what is gained by the disclosure 13 of their bark and branches 14 compensates, almost, for the loss of 15 foliage, exhibiting the variety which 16 characterises the point of time between 17 autumn and winter. The hawthorns 18 were leafless; their round heads 19 covered with rich red berries, and rich green red berries 20 adorned with arches of green brambles, 21 and eglantines hung with glossy hips; 22 and the grey trunks of some of the 23 ancient oaks, which in the summer 24 season might have been regarded only 25 for their venerable majesty, now 26 attracted notice by a pretty 27 embellishment of green mosses and 28 ferns intermixed with russet leaves 29 retained by those slender outstarting 30 twigs which the veteran tree would not 31 have tolerated in his strength. The 32 smooth silver branches of the ashes 33 were bare; most of the alders as green 34 as the Devonshire cottage myrtle that 35 weathers the snows of Christmas.— 36 Will you accept it as some apology for 37 my having dwelt so long on the 38 woodland ornaments of these scenes— 39 that artists speak of the trees on the 40 banks of Ulswater, and especially along 41 the bays of Stybarrow crags, as having 42 a peculiar character of picturesque 43 intricacy in their stems and branches, 44 which their rocky stations and the 45 mountain winds have combined to 46 give them? 126 1 At the end of Gowbarrow park a large 2 herd of deer were either moving slowly 3 or standing still among the fern. I was 4 sorry when a chance companion, who 5 had joined us by the way, startled 6 them with a whistle, disturbing an 7 image of grave simplicity and 8 thoughtful enjoyment; for I could have 9 fancied that those natives of this wild 10 and beautiful region were partaking 11 with us a sensation of the solemnity of 12 the closing day. The sun had been set 13 some time; and we could perceive that 14 the light was fading away from the 15 coves of Helvellyn, but the lake, under 16 a luminous sky, was more brilliant 17 than before. 127 1 After tea at Patterdale, set out again:— 2 a fine evening; the seven stars close to 3 the mountain-top; all the stars seemed 4 brighter than usual. The steeps were 5 reflected in Brotherswater, and, above 6 the lake, appeared like enormous black 7 perpendicular walls. The Kirkstone 8 torrents had been swoln by the rains, 9 and now filled the mountain pass with 10 their roaring, which added greatly to 11 the solemnity of our walk. Behind us, 12 when we had climbed to a great 13 height, we saw one light, very distant, very distinct distant 14 in the vale, like a large red star—a 15 solitary one in the gloomy region. The 16 cheerfulness of the scene was in the sky 17 above us. 128 1 Reached home a little before midnight. before midnight. 2 [New sentence and poem added for 5th The following verses (from the 3 ed.] Author’s Miscellaneous Poems,) after 4 what has just been read may be 5 acceptable to the reader, by way of 6 conclusion to this little Volume. 7 8 ODE. 9 THE PASS OF KIRKSTONE. 10 11 1. 12 Within the mind strong fancies work, 13 A deep delight the bosom thrills, 14 Oft as I pass along the fork 15 Of these fraternal hills: 16 Where, save the rugged road, we find 17 No appendage of human kind; 18 Nor hint of man, if stone or rock 19 Seem not his handy-work to mock 20 By something cognizably shaped; 21 Mockery—or model roughly hewn, 22 And left as if by earthquake strewn, 23 Or from the Flood escaped: 24 Altars for Druid service fit; 25 (But where no fire was ever lit, 26 Unless the glow-worm to the skies 27 Thence offer nightly sacrifice;) 28 Wrinkled Egyptian monument; 29 Green moss-grown tower; or hoary tent; 30 Tents of a camp that never shall be raised; 31 On which four thousand years have gazed! 32 33 2. 34 Ye plough-shares sparkling on the slopes! 35 Ye snow-white lambs that trip 36 Imprisoned ’mid the formal props 37 Of restless ownership! 38 Ye trees, that may to-morrow fall 39 To feed the insatiate Prodigal! 40 Lawns, houses, chattels, groves, and fields, 41 All that the fertile valley shields; 42 Wages of folly—baits of crime,— 43 Of life's uneasy game the stake, 44 Playthings that keep the eyes awake 45 Of drowsy, dotard Time; 46 O care! O guilt!—O vales and plains, 47 Here, ’mid his own unvexed domains, 48 A Genius dwells, that can subdue 49 At once all memory of You,— 50 Most potent when mists veil the sky, 51 Mists that distort and magnify; 52 While the course rushes, to the sweeping breeze, 53 Sigh forth their ancient melodies! 54 55 3. 56 List to those shriller notes!—that march 57 Perchance was on the blast, 58 When through this Height's inverted arch, 59 Rome's earliest legion passed! 60 —They saw, adventurously impelled, 61 And older eyes than theirs beheld, 62 This block—and yon, whose Church-like frame 63 Gives to the savage Pass its name. 64 Aspiring Road! that lov’st to hide 65 Thy daring in a vapoury bourn, 66 Not seldom may the hour return 67 When thou shalt be my Guide: 68 And I (as often we find cause, 69 When life is at a weary pause, 70 And we have panted up the hill 71 Of duty with reluctant will) 72 Be thankful, even though tired and faint, 73 For the rich bounties of Constraint; 74 Whence oft invigorating transports flow 75 That Choice lacked courage to bestow! 76 77 4. 78 My Soul was grateful for delight 79 That wore a threatening brow; 80 A veil is lifted—can she slight 81 The scene that opens now? 82 Though habitation none appear, 83 The greenness tells, man must be there; 84 The shelter—that the perspective 85 Is of the clime in which we live; 86 Where Toil pursues his daily round; 87 Where Pity sheds sweet tears, and Love, 88 In woodbine bower or birchen grove, 89 Inflicts his tender wound. 90 —Who comes not hither ne’er shall know 91 How beautiful the world below; 92 Nor can he guess how lightly leaps 93 The brook adown the rocky steeps. 94 Farewell, thou desolate Domain! 95 Hope, pointing to the cultured Plain, 96 Carols like a shepherd boy; 97 And who is she?—Can that be Joy! 98 Who, with a sun-beam for her guide, 99 Smoothly skims the meadows wide; 100 While Faith, from yonder opening cloud, 101 To hill and vale proclaims aloud, 102 “Whate’er the weak may dread, the wicked dare, 103 Thy lot, O man, is good, thy portion fair!” [New section in 3rd. ed.] [The following section, “Directions and DIRECTIONS AND Information for the Tourist,” was moved INFORMATION FOR THE to the front of the 5th ed. of the Guide. TOURIST. Paras. 129-38 were at that time added to the section’s beginning.] 129 1 [In the 3rd and 4th eds. this section [Section moved to the front of the 5th In preparing this Manual, it was the 2 begins with para. 139 below] ed., with paras. 129-38 added at the Author’s principal wish to furnish a 3 section’s beginning] Guide or Companion for the Minds of 4 Persons of taste, and feeling for 5 Landscape, who might be inclined to 6 explore the District of the Lakes with 7 that degree of attention to which its 8 beauty may fairly lay claim. For the 9 more sure attainment, however, of this 10 primary object, he will begin by 11 undertaking the humble and tedious 12 task of supplying the Tourist with 13 directions how to approach the several 14 scenes in their best, or most 15 convenient, order. But first, supposing 16 the approach to be made from the 17 south, and through Yorkshire, there 18 are certain interesting spots which may 19 be confidently recommended to his 20 notice, if time can be spared before 21 entering upon the Lake District; and 22 the route may be changed in 23 returning. 130 1 There are three approaches to the 2 Lakes through Yorkshire; the least 3 adviseable is the great north road by 4 Catterick and Greta Bridge, and 5 onwards to Penrith. The Traveller, 6 however, taking this route, might halt 7 at Greta Bridge, and be well 8 recompenced if he can afford to give 9 an hour or two to the banks of the 10 Greta, and of the Tees, at Rokeby. 11 Barnard Castle also, about two miles 12 up the Tees, is a striking object, and 13 the main North Road might be 14 rejoined at Bowes. Every one has heard 15 of the great fall of the Tees above 16 Middleham, interesting for its 17 grandeur, as the avenue of rocks that 18 leads to it, is to the geologist. But this 19 place lies so far out of the way as 20 scarcely to be within the compass of 21 our notice. It might, however, be 22 visited by a Traveller on foot, or on 23 horseback, who could rejoin the main 24 road upon Stanemoor. 131 1 The second road leads through a more 2 interesting tract of country, beginning 3 at Ripon, from which place see 4 Fountain’s Abbey, and thence by 5 Hackfall, and Masham, to Jervaux 6 Abbey, and up the vale of Wensley; 7 turning aside before Askrigg is 8 reached, to see Aysgarth-force, upon 9 the Ure; and again, near Hawes, to 10 Hardraw Scar, of which, with its 11 waterfall, Turner has a fine drawing. 12 Thence over the fells to Sedbergh, and 13 Kendal. 132 1 The third approach from Yorkshire is 2 through Leeds. Four miles beyond that 3 town are the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, 4 should that road to Skipton be chosen; 5 but the other by Otley may be made 6 much more interesting by turning off 7 at Addington to Bolton Bridge, for the 8 sake of visiting the Abbey and 9 grounds. It would be well, however, 10 for a party previously to secure beds, if 11 wanted, at the inn, as there is but one, 12 and it is much resorted to in summer. 133 1 The Traveller on foot, or horseback, 2 would do well to follow the banks of 3 the Wharf upwards, to Burnsall, and 4 thence cross over the hills to 5 Gordale—a noble scene, beautifully 6 described in Gray’s Tour, and with 7 which no one can be disappointed. 8 Thence to Malham, where there is a 9 respectable village inn, and so on, by 10 Malham Cove, to Settle. 134 1 Travellers in carriages must go from 2 Bolton Bridge to Skipton, where they 3 rejoin the main road; and should they 4 be inclined to visit Gordale, a tolerable 5 road turns off beyond Skipton. 6 Beyond Settle, under Giggleswick 7 Scar, the road passes an ebbing and 8 flowing well, worthy the notice of the 9 Naturalist. Four miles to the right of 10 Ingleton, is Weathercote Cave, a fine 11 object, but whoever diverges for this, 12 must return to Ingleton. Near Kirkby 13 Lonsdale observe the view from the 14 bridge over the Lune, and descend to 15 the channel of the river, and by no 16 means omit looking at the Vale of 17 Lune from the Church-yard. 135 1 The journey towards the lake country 2 through Lancashire, is, with the 3 exception of the Vale of the Ribble, at 4 Preston, uninteresting; till you come 5 near Lancaster, and obtain a view of 6 the fells and mountains of Lancashire 7 and Westmorland; with Lancaster 8 Castle, and the Tower of the Church 9 seeming to make part of the Castle, in 10 the foreground. 136 1 They who wish to see the celebrated 2 ruins of Furness Abbey, and are not 3 afraid of crossing the Sands, may go 4 from Lancaster to Ulverston; from 5 which place take the direct road to 6 Dalton; but by all means return 7 through Urswick, for the sake of the 8 view from the top of the hill, before 9 descending into the grounds of 10 Conishead Priory. From this quarter 11 the Lakes would be advantageously 12 approached by Coniston; thence to 13 Hawkshead, and by the Ferry over 14 Windermere, to Bowness: a much 15 better introduction than by going 16 direct from Coniston to Ambleside, 17 which ought not to be done, as that 18 would greatly take off from the effect 19 of Windermere. 137 1 Let us now go back to Lancaster. The 2 direct road thence to Kendal is 22 3 miles, but by making a circuit of eight 4 miles, the Vale of the Lune to Kirkby 5 Lonsdale will be included. The whole 6 tract is pleasing; there is one view 7 mentioned by Gray and Mason 8 especially so. In West’s Guide it is 9 thus pointed out:—“About a quarter 10 of a mile beyond the third mile-stone, 11 where the road makes a turn to the 12 right, there is a gate on the left which 13 leads into a field where the station 14 meant, will be found.” Thus far for 15 those who approach the Lakes from 16 the South. 138 1 Travellers from the North would do 2 well to go from Carlisle by Wigton, 3 and proceed along the Lake of 4 Bassenthwaite to Keswick; or, if 5 convenience should take them first to 6 Penrith, it would still be better to 7 cross the country to Keswick, and 8 begin with that vale, rather than with 9 Ulswater. It is worth while to mention, 10 in this place, that the banks of the 11 river Eden, about Corby, are well 12 worthy of notice, both on account of 13 their natural beauty, and the viaducts 14 which have recently been carried over 15 the bed of the river, and over a 16 neighbouring ravine. In the Church of 17 Wetherby, close by, is a fine piece of 18 monumental sculpture by Nollekins. 19 The scenes of Nunnery, upon the 20 Eden, or rather that part of them 21 which is upon Croglin, a mountain 22 stream there falling into the Eden, are, 23 in their way, unrivalled. But the 24 nearest road thither, from Corby, is so 25 bad, that no one can be advised to take 26 it in a carriage. Nunnery may be 27 reached from Corby by making a 28 circuit and crossing the Eden at 29 Armathwaite bridge. A portion of this 30 road, however, is bad enough. 139 1 A Brief notice shall here be given of A Brief notice shall here be given of 2 particulars in the several Vales of particulars in the several Vales of which 3 which the Country is composed. We the Country is composed. We will begin, 4 will begin, as before, with as before, with 5 ↓ As much the greatest number of Lake 6 Tourists begin by passing from Kendal 7 to Bowness, upon Windermere, our 8 notices shall commence with that 9 Lake. Bowness is situated upon its 10 eastern side, and at equal distance 11 from each extremity of the Lake of 140 1 WINDERMERE. WINDERMERE. 2 3 This Lake is approached, by Travellers This Lake is approached, by Travellers 4 from the South, about the middle of from the South, about the middle of its 5 its eastern side, at Bowness or by eastern side, at Bowness or by Orrest- 6 Orrest-head. The lower part is rarely head. The lower part of this Lake is 7 visited, but has many interesting rarely visited, 8 points of view, especially at Storr’s 9 Hall and at Fellfort, where the 10 Coniston Mountains peer nobly over 11 the western barrier, which elsewhere 12 along the whole Lake is comparatively 13 tame. To one also who has ascended 14 the hill from Grathwaite on the 15 western side, the promontory called 16 Rawlinson’s Nab, Storr’s Hall, and the 17 Troutbeck Mountains, about sunset, 18 make a splendid landscape. The view 19 from the Pleasure-house of the Station 20 near the Ferry has suffered much from 21 Larch plantations, and from other plantations, and from other causes; 22 causes. this mischief, however, is gradually 23 ↓ disappearing, and the Larches, under 24 the management of the proprietor, Mr. 25 Curwen, are giving way to native 26 Windermere ought to be seen both wood. Windermere ought 27 from its shores and from its surface. 28 None of the other Lakes unfold so 29 many fresh beauties to him who sails 30 upon them. This is owing to its greater 31 size, to the islands,* [Note 1] and its the islands [Note deleted], and to its 32 having two vales at the head, with their 33 accompanying mountains of nearly 34 equal dignity. Nor can the grandeur of 35 these two terminations be seen at the be seen at once the 36 same time from any one point, except same time from any one point 37 from the bosom of the Lake. The 38 Islands may be explored at any time of 39 the day; but one bright unruffled 40 evening, must, if possible, be set apart 41 for the splendour, the stillness, and 42 solemnity of a three hours’ voyage 43 upon the higher division of the Lake, 44 not omitting, towards the end of the 45 excursion, to quit the expanse of water, 46 and peep into the close and calm River 47 at the head; which, in its quiet 48 character, at such a time, appears 49 rather like an overflow of the peaceful 50 Lake itself, than to have any more 51 immediate connection with the rough 52 mountains whence it has descended, or 53 the turbulent torrents by which it is 54 supplied. Many persons content 55 themselves with what they see of 56 Windermere during their progress in a 57 boat from Bowness to the head of the 58 Lake, walking thence to Ambleside. 59 But the whole road from Bowness is 60 rich in diversity of pleasing or grand 61 scenery; there is scarcely a field on the 62 road side, which, if entered, would not 63 give to the landscape some additional 64 charm. Low-wood Inn, a mile from the 65 head of Windermere, is a pleasant 66 halting-place; and the fields above it, halting-place; no inn in the whole 67 ↓ district is so agreeably situated for 68 water views and excursions; and the 69 and the lane that leads to Troutbeck, fields above it, and the lane 70 present beautiful views towards each 71 extremity of the Lake. From this place 72 and from Ambleside, rides may be from [line break added] AMBLESIDE 73 taken in numerous directions, and the 74 interesting walks are inexhaustible;* 75 [Note 2] a few out of the main road 76 may be particularized; — the lane that lane that leads 77 leads towards Skelgill; the ride, or walk from Ambleside to towards Skelgill 78 by Rothay Bridge, and up the stream 79 under Loughrigg Fell, continued on 80 the western side of Rydal Lake, and 81 along the fell to the foot of Grasmere 82 Lake, and thence round by the church 83 of Grasmere: or, turning round 84 Loughrigg Fell by Loughrigg Tarn and 85 the River Brathay, back to Ambleside. 86 From Ambleside is a charming From Ambleside is another a charming 87 excursion, by Skelwith-fold and excursion by Skelwith-fold and 88 Colwith-force up Little Langdale, Blea Colwith-force up Little Langdale, Blea 89 Tarn, Dungeon-ghyll waterfall (if there Tarn, Dungeon-ghyll waterfall (if there 90 be time) and down Great Langdale. be time) and down Great Langdale. 91 Stockghyll-force and Rydal waterfalls, Stockghyll-force and Rydal waterfalls, 92 every one hears of. In addition to the every one hears of. In addition to the 93 two Streams at its head with their two vales Streams at its head with their two Streams at its head with their 94 Vales, Windermere communicates with Vales, Windermere Vales, Windermere communicates with 95 two lateral Vallies, that of Troutbeck, two lateral Vallies, that of Troutbeck, 96 distinguished by the mountains at its distinguished by the mountains at its 97 head, by picturesque remains of head, by picturesque remains of 98 cottage architecture, and by fine fore- cottage architecture, and by fine fore- 99 grounds formed by the steep and grounds formed by the steep and 100 winding banks of the river. The other, winding banks of the river. The other, 101 the vale of Hawkshead, is seen to most the vale of Hawkshead, is seen to most 102 advantage by the approach from the advantage by the approach from the ferry 103 ferry over Windermere—the Lake of over Windermere —the Lake of 104 Esthwaite, Hawkshead Church, and Esthwaite, Hawkshead Church, and 105 the cone of Langdale Pike in the the cone of Langdale Pike in the 106 distance. There are delightful walks in distance. There are delightful walks in 107 that part of Grasmere, called Easedale; that part of Grasmere, called Easedale; 108 and the Vale is advantageously seen and the Vale is advantageously seen 109 from Butterlip How. As this point is from Butterlip How. As this point is 110 four miles on the way to Keswick, it four miles on the way to Keswick, it may 111 may here be mentioned, that, from the here be mentioned, that, from the 112 high road between Keswick and high road between Keswick and 113 Ambleside, which passes along the Ambleside, which passes along the 114 eastern side of the several Lakes of eastern side of the several Lakes of 115 Rydal, Grasmere, and part of Rydal, Grasmere, and part of 116 Wythburn, these lakes are not seen to Wythburn, these lakes are not seen to 117 the best advantage, particularly Rydal, the best advantage, particularly Rydal, 118 and Wythburn—the lower half of and Wythburn—the lower half of 119 which is entirely lost. If, therefore, the which is entirely lost. If, therefore, the 120 excursion from Ambleside has not excursion from Ambleside has not 121 been taken, a traveller on foot or on been taken, a traveller on foot or on 122 horseback would be well recompensed horseback would be well recompensed 123 by quitting the high road at Rydal over by quitting the high road at Rydal over 124 Pelter Bridge, — proceeding on the Pelter Bridge, — proceeding on the 125 western side of the two lakes to western side of the two lakes to 126 Grasmere Church; and, thence to Grasmere Church; and, thence to 127 Butterlip How. A second deviation Butterlip How. A second deviation 128 may be made when he has advanced a may be made when he has advanced a 129 little beyond the mile-stone, the sixth little beyond the mile-stone, the sixth 130 short of Keswick, whence there is a short of Keswick, whence there is a 131 fine view of Legbertwhaite, with fine view of Legbertwhaite, with 132 Blencathara (commonly called Blencathara (commonly called 133 Saddleback) in front. Having Saddleback) in front. Having 134 previously enquired, at the inn near previously enquired, at the inn near 135 Wythburn Chapel, the best way from Wythburn Chapel, the best way from 136 this mile-stone to the bridge that this mile-stone to the bridge that 137 divides the Lake, he must cross it, and divides the Lake, he must cross it, and 138 proceed, with the Lake on the right, to proceed, with the Lake on the right, to 139 the Hamlet near its termination, and the Hamlet near its termination, and 140 rejoin the main road upon rejoin the main road upon 141 Shoulthwaite Moss, about four miles Shoulthwaite Moss, about four miles 142 from Keswick. These two deviations from Keswick. These two deviations 143 lengthen the journey something less lengthen the journey something less 144 than three miles. Helvellyn may be than three miles. Helvellyn may be 145 ascended from Dunmail-raise by a foot ascended from Dunmail-raise by a foot 146 Traveller, or from the Inn at Traveller, or from the Inn at 147 Wythburn. Wythburn. Clappersgate, where cross 148 the Brathay, and proceed with the 149 river on the right to the hamlet of 150 Skelwith-fold; when the houses are 151 passed, turn, before you descend the 152 hill, through a gate on the right, and 153 from a rocky point is a fine view of the 154 Brathay River, Langdale Pikes, &c.; 155 then proceed to Colwith-force, and up 156 Little Langdale to Blea Tarn. The 157 scene in which this small piece of 158 water lies, suggested to the Author the 159 following description, (given in his 160 Poem of the Excursion) supposing the 161 spectator to look down upon it, not 162 from the road, but from one of its 163 elevated sides. 164 165 “Behold! 166 Beneath our feet, a little lowly Vale, 167 A lowly Vale, and yet uplifted high 168 Among the mountains; even as if the spot 169 Had been, from eldest time by wish of theirs, 170 So placed, to be shut out from all the world! 171 Urn-like it was in shape, deep as an Urn; 172 With rocks encompassed, save that to the South 173 Was one small opening, where a heath-clad ridge 174 Supplied a boundary less abrupt and close; 175 A quiet treeless nook,*[Note] with two green fields, 176 A liquid pool that glittered in the sun, 177 And one bare Dwelling; one Abode, no more! 178 It seemed the home of poverty and toil, 179 Though not of want: the little fields, made green 180 By husbandry of many thrifty years, 181 Paid cheerful tribute to the moorland House. 182 —There crows the Cock, single in his domain: 183 The small birds find in spring no thicket there 184 To shroud them; only from the neighbouring Vales 185 The Cuckoo, straggling up to the hill tops, 186 Shouteth faint tidings of some gladder place.” 187 188 From this little Vale return towards 189 Ambleside by Great Langdale, 190 stopping, if there be time, to see 191 Dungeon-ghyll waterfall. 192 193 [Note 1] *This Lake has seventeen [Note 1] *This Lake has seventeen 194 Islands. Among those that lie near the Islands. Among those that lie near the 195 largest, formerly called “Great Holm,” largest, formerly called “Great Holm," 196 may be noticed “Lady Holm,” so called may be noticed "Lady Holm," so called 197 from the Virgin who had formerly a from the Virgin who had formerly a 198 Chapel or Oratory there. On the road Chapel or Oratory there. On the road 199 from Kendal to the Great-boat, might from Kendal to the Great-boat, might 200 lately, and perhaps may still be seen, lately, and perhaps may still be seen, 201 the ruins of the Holy Cross; a place the ruins of the Holy Cross; a place 202 where the Pilgrims to this beautifully where the Pilgrims to this beautifully 203 situated shrine, must have been in the situated shrine, must have been in the 204 habit of offering up their devotions. — habit of offering up their devotions. — 205 Two other of these Islands are named Two other of these Islands are named 206 from the lily of the valley, which grows from the lily of the valley, which grows 207 there in profusion. there in profusion. 208 209 [Note 2] *Mr. Green’s Guide to the 210 Lakes in two vols. contains a complete 211 Magazine of minute and accurate 212 information of this kind, with the 213 names of mountains, streams, &c. 214 215 [New footnote] *No longer strictly 216 applicable, on account of recent 217 plantations. 140- 1 ↓ The Lake of 141 2 3 CONISTON. CONISTON 4 5 The next principal Vale, that of The next principal Vale, that of 6 Coniston, is best seen by entering the Coniston, May be conveniently visited 7 Country over the Sands of Lancaster. from Ambleside, but is best seen to the 8 The Stranger, from the moment he sets most advantage by entering the country 9 his foot on those Sands, seems to leave 10 the turmoil and traffic of the world 11 behind him; and, crossing the majestic 12 plain whence the Sea has retired, he 13 beholds, rising apparently from its 14 base, the cluster of mountains among 15 which he is going to wander, and 16 towards whose recesses, by the Vale of 17 Coniston he is gradually and peacefully 18 led. From the Inn at the head of 19 Coniston Lake, a leisurely Traveller 20 might have much pleasure in looking 21 into Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, 22 returning to his Inn from the head of 23 Yewdale by a mountain track which 24 has the farm of Tarn Hows, a little on 25 the right;—by this road is seen much 26 the best view of Coniston Lake from 27 the South. From Coniston it is best to the south. From Coniston it is best to 28 pass by Hawkshead to the Ferry of pass by Hawkshead to the Ferry of 29 Windermere, instead of going direct to Windermere, instead of going direct to 30 Ambleside, which would bring the Ambleside, which would bring the 31 Traveller upon the head of the Lake, Traveller upon the head of the Lake, 32 and consequently with much injury to and consequently with much injury to 33 its effect. If the Lake of Coniston be its effect. If the Lake of Coniston be 34 visited from the upper end, it is visited from the upper end, it is 35 scarcely worth while to proceed further scarcely worth while to proceed further 36 than about a mile and a half down its than about a mile and a half down its 37 eastern shore, for the sake of the views eastern shore, for the sake of the views 38 on returning. on returning. At the head of Coniston 39 [Para. break here in 3rd/4th eds.] Water there is an agreeable Inn, from 40 ↓ which an enterprising Tourist might 41 go to the Vale of the Duddon [no para. 42 DONNERDALE, or the Vale of break] DONNERDALE, or the Vale of 43 the Duddon (er signifies upon) and the the Duddon (er signifies upon) and the 44 adjoining Vale of the Esk, are rarely adjoining Vale of the Esk, are rarely 45 visited by Travellers.—Donnerdale is visited by Travellers.—Donnerdale is 46 best approached by Coniston over best approached by Coniston over 47 Walna Scar, down to Seathwaite, New- 48 field, and to the rocks where the river 49 issues from a narrow pass into the 50 broad Vale. The Stream is very 51 interesting for the space of a mile 52 above this point, and below, by Ulpha 53 Kirk, till it enters the Sands, where it is 54 overlooked by the solitary Mountain 55 Black Comb, the summit of which, as 56 that experienced surveyor, the late surveyor, the late 57 Colonel Mudge, declared, commands a 58 more extensive view than any point in 59 Britain. Ireland he saw from it more saw from it more 60 than once, but not when the sun was 61 above the horizon. 62 63 "Close by the Sea, lone sentinel, 64 Black-Comb his forward station keeps; 65 He breaks the sea’s tumultuous swell, — 66 And ponders o'er the level deeps. 67 68 He listens to the bugle horn, 69 Where Eskdale's lovely valley bends; 70 Eyes Walney's early fields of corn; 71 Sea-birds to Holker's woods he sends. 72 73 Beneath his feet the sunk ship rests, 74 In Duddon Sands, its mast all bare:” 75 76 The Minstrels of Windermere, by Chas. Farish, B. D. 142 1 ↓ ULPHA KIRK 2 3 Over Birker moor, to Birker-force, at 4 the head of the finest ravine in the 5 country; and thence up the Vale of the 6 Esk, by Hardknot and Wrynose, back 7 Details of this Vale, are to to Ambleside. Details of this Vale, are to 8 be found in the Author’s Poem “The be found in the Author's Poem "The 9 River Duddon.” In the Vale of Esk is River Duddon." In the Vale of Esk is 10 an interesting Waterfall, called Birker an interesting Waterfall, called Birker 11 Force, that lies apart; and, from the Force, that lies apart; and, from the 12 chasm, a fine mountain view of chasm, a fine mountain view of 13 Scawfell. At the head of the Vale Scawfell. At the head of the Vale Near 14 are conspicuous Remains of a Roman the road, in ascending from Eskdale, 15 Fortress. are conspicuous Remains of a Roman 16 [New sentences in 5th ed.] Fortress. Details of the Duddon and 17 ↓ Donnerdale are given in the Author's 18 series of Sonnets upon the Duddon 19 and in the accompanying Notes. In 20 addition to its two Vales at its head, 21 Windermere communicates with two 22 lateral Vallies; that of Troutbeck, 23 distinguished by the mountains at its 24 head—by picturesque remains of 25 cottage architecture; and, towards the 26 lower part, by bold foregrounds 27 formed by the steep and winding 28 banks of the river. This Vale, as before 29 mentioned, may be most conveniently 30 seen from Low Wood. The other 31 lateral Valley, that of Hawkshead, is 32 visited to most advantage, and most 33 conveniently, from Bowness; crossing 34 the Lake by the Ferry—then pass the 35 two villages of Sawrey, and on quitting 36 the latter, you have a fine view of the 37 Lake of Esthwaite, and the cone of one 38 of the Langdale Pikes in the distance. 143 1 [Four paras. added in 5th ed.] Before you leave Ambleside give three 2 minutes to looking at a passage of the 3 brook which runs through the town; it 4 is to be seen from a garden on the 5 right bank of the stream, a few steps 6 above the bridge—the garden at 7 present is rented by Mrs. Airey.— 8 Stockgill-force, upon the same stream, 9 will have been mentioned to you as 10 one of the sights of the 11 neighbourhood. And by a Tourist 12 halting a few days in Ambleside, the 13 Nook also might be visited; a spot 14 where there is a bridge over Scandale- 15 beck, which makes a pretty subject for 16 the pencil. Lastly, for residents of a 17 week or so at Ambleside, there are 18 delightful rambles over every part of 19 Loughrigg Fell and among the 20 enclosures on its sides; particularly 21 about Loughrigg Tarn, and on its 22 eastern side about Fox How and the 23 properties adjoining to the 24 northwards. 144 1 ROAD FROM AMBLESIDE 2 TO KESWICK. 3 4 The Waterfalls of Rydal are pointed 5 out to every one. But it ought to be 6 observed here, that Rydal-mere is no 7 where seen to advantage from the main 8 road. Fine views of it may be had from 9 Rydal Park; but these grounds, as well 10 as those of Rydal Mount and Ivy 11 Cottage, from which also it is viewed 12 to advantage, are private. A foot road 13 passing behind Rydal Mount and 14 under Nab Scar to Grasmere, is very 15 favourable to views of the Lake and 16 the Vale, looking back towards 17 Ambleside. The horse road also, along 18 the western side of the Lake, under 19 Loughrigg fell, as before mentioned, 20 does justice to the beauties of this 21 small mere, of which the Traveller who 22 keeps the high road is not at all aware. 145 1 GRASMERE 2 3 There are two small Inns in the Vale 4 of Grasmere, one near the Church, 5 from which it may be conveniently 6 explored in every direction, and a 7 mountain walk taken up Ease-dale to 8 Easedale Tarn, one of the finest tarns 9 in the country, thence to Stickle Tarn, 10 and to the top of Langdale Pikes. See 11 also the Vale of Grasmere from 12 Butterlip How. A boat is kept by the 13 innkeeper, and this circular Vale, in 14 the solemnity of a fine evening, will 15 make, from the bosom of the Lake, an 16 impression that will be scarcely ever effaced. 146 1 The direct road from Grasmere to 2 Keswick does not (as has been 3 observed of Rydal Mere) shew to 4 advantage Thirlmere, or Wythburn 5 Lake, with its surrounding mountains. 6 By a Traveller proceeding at leisure, a 7 deviation ought to be made from the 8 main road, when he has advanced a 9 little beyond the sixth mile-stone short 10 of Keswick, from which point there is 11 a noble view of the Vale of 12 Legberthwaite, with Blencathra 13 (commonly called Saddle- back) in 14 front. Having previously enquired, at 15 the Inn near Wythburn Chapel, the 16 best way from this mile-stone to the 17 bridge that divides the Lake, he must 18 cross it, and proceed with the Lake on 19 the right, to the hamlet a little be- 20 yond its termination, and rejoin the 21 main road upon Shoulthwaite Moss, 22 about four miles from Keswick; or, if 23 on foot, the Tourist may follow the 24 stream that issues from Thirlmere 25 down the romantic Vale of St. John’s, 26 and so (enquiring the way at some 27 cottage) to Keswick, by a circuit of 28 little more than a mile. A more 29 interesting tract of country is scarcely 30 any where to be seen, than the road 31 between Ambleside and Keswick, with 32 the deviations that have been pointed 33 out. Helvellyn may be conveniently 34 ascended from the Inn at Wythburn. 147- 1 [These paragraphs were thoroughly THE VALE OF KESWICK 148 2 revised, expanded, and rearranged for the 3 5th ed. Color-coding signals Which place is the head-quarters of 4 corresponding passages.] Tourists. This Vale stretches, without 5 winding, nearly North and South, 6 WASTDALE. from the head of Derwent Water to 7 the foot of Bassenthwaite Lake. It 8 Into this Dale are three horse-roads, viz. communicates with Borrowdale on the 9 over the Stye from Borrowdale; a short South; with the river Greta, and 10 cut over a ridge of Scawfell, by Burnmoor Thirlmere, on the East, with which the 11 Tarn, which road descends upon the head Traveller has become acquainted on 12 of the Lake; and the principal entrance his way from Ambleside; and with the 13 from the open country at its foot: this is Vale of Newlands on the West—which 14 much the best approach. Wastdale is well last Vale he may pass through, in 15 worth the notice of the Traveller who is going to, or returning from, 16 not afraid of fatigue; no part of the Buttermere. 17 country is more distinguished by The best views of Keswick Lake are from 18 sublimity. Crow Park; Frier's Crag; the Stable field, 19 close by; the Vicarage, and by taking the 20 ENNERDALE. circuit of the Lake. More distant views, 21 and perhaps full as interesting, are from 22 This Vale and Lake, though presenting the side of Latrigg; from Ormathwaite, 23 some bold features, are only to be taken and Applethwaite; and thence along the 24 as leading to something else; — the Vale road at the foot of Skiddaw towards 25 may be approached by Pedestrians, at its Bassenthwaite, for about a quarter of a 26 head, from Wastdale; and also over the mile. There are fine bird’s-eye views from 27 mountains from Buttermere; and, by an the Castle hill; from Ashness, on the road 28 indifferent Carriage-road, either from to Watenlath, and by following the 29 Calder Bridge, or Loweswater. Watenlath Stream downwards to the 30 Cataract of Lodore. This Lake also, if the 31 THE VALE OF BUTTERMERE, &c. weather be fine, ought to be 32 circumnavigated. There are good views 33 We are again in the beaten track of the along the western side of Bassenthwaite 34 Lakes, I will therefore pass to Lake, and from Armathwaite at its foot; 35 but the eastern side from the high road 36 THE VALE OF KESWICK, has little to recommend it. The Traveller 37 from Carlisle approaching by way of 38 Which place is the head-quarters of Which place is one of the head-quarters Ireby has, from the old road on the top 39 Tourists. The best views of Keswick Lake of Bassenthwaite-hawse, much the most 40 are from Crow Park; Frier’s Crag; the striking view of the Plain and Lake of 41 Stable field, close by; the Vicarage, Bassenthwaite, flanked by Skiddaw, and 42 and by taking the circuit of the Lake. and from various points in by taking terminated by Wallow crag on the south- 43 More distant views, and perhaps full as east of Derwent Lake; the same point 44 interesting, are from the side of Latrigg; commands an extensive view of Solway 45 from Ormathwaite, and Applethwaite; Frith and the Scotch Mountains. They 46 and thence along the road at the foot of who take the circuit of Derwent Lake, 47 Skiddaw towards Bassenthwaite, for may at the same time include 48 about a quarter of a mile. There are fine Borrowdale, going as far as Bowder- 49 bird's-eye views from the Castle hill; from Stone, or Rossthwaite; Borrowdale is also 50 Ashness, on the road to Watenlath, and conveniently seen on the way to 51 by following the Watenlath Stream Wastdale over Styhead; or to 52 downwards to the Cataract of Lodore. Buttermere, by Seatoller and Honister 53 This Lake also, if the weather be fine, Crag; or, going over the Stake, through 54 ought to be circumnavigated. There are Stye to Langdale, to and Ambleside. 55 good views along the western side of Buttermere may be visited by a shorter 56 Bassenthwaite Lake, and from way, through Newlands, but the best 57 Armathwaite at its foot; but the eastern approach is from Scale-hill: the 58 side from the high road has little to Mountains of this vale are nowhere so 59 recommend it. The Traveller from impressive as from the bosom of 60 Carlisle approaching by way of Ireby has, Crummock Lake. Scale-force is a fine 61 from the top of Bassenthwaite-hawse, Waterfall. though the descent upon the 62 much the most striking view of the Plain Vale of Buttermere, by this approach, 63 and Lake of Bassenthwaite, flanked by is very striking, as it also is to one 64 Skiddaw, and terminated by Wallow crag entering by the head of the Vale, 65 on the south-east of Derwent Lake; the under Honister Crag, yet, after all, the 66 same point commands an extensive view best entrance from Keswick is from the 67 of Solway Frith and the Scotch lower part of the Vale, having gone 68 Mountains. They who take the circuit of over Whinlater to Scale Hill, where 69 Derwent Lake, may at the same time there is a roomy Inn, with very good 70 include Borrowdale, going as far as accommodations. The Mountains of 71 Bowder-Stone, or Rossthwaite; the Vale of 72 Borrowdale is also conveniently seen on 73 the way to Wastdale; or to Buttermere, BUTTERMERE AND CRUMMOCK 74 by Seatoller and Honister-Crag; or, over 75 the Stye to Langdale, and Ambleside. Are nowhere so impressive as from the 76 Buttermere may be visited by a shorter bosom of Crummock Water. Scale- 77 way, through Newlands, but the best force, near it, is a fine chasm, with a 78 approach is from Scale-hill: the lofty, though but slender, fall of water. 79 Mountains of this vale are nowhere so 80 impressive as from the bosom of From Scale Hill a pleasant walk may 81 Crummock Lake. Scale-force is a fine be taken to an eminence in Mr. 82 Waterfall. Marshall’s woods, and another by 83 crossing the bridge at the foot of the 84 hill, upon which the Inn stands, and 85 turning to the right, after the opposite 86 hill has been ascended a little way, 87 then follow the road for half a mile or 88 so that leads towards Lorton, looking 89 back upon Crummock Water, &c., 90 between the openings of the fences. 91 Turn back and make your way to 92 93 LOWESWATER. 94 95 But this small Lake is only approached 96 to advantage from the other end; 97 therefore any Traveller going by this 98 road to Wasdale, must look back upon 99 it. This road to Wast-dale, after 100 passing the village of Lamplugh Cross, 101 presents suddenly a fine view of the 102 Lake of Ennerdale, with its 103 Mountains; and, six or seven miles 104 beyond, leads down upon Calder 105 Abbey. Little of this ruin is left, but 106 that little is well worthy of notice. At 107 Calder Bridge are two comfortable 108 Inns, and, a few miles beyond, 109 accommodations may be had at the 110 Strands, at the foot of Wastdale. Into 111 112 WASTDALE. 113 114 Into this Dale are three horse-roads, viz. 115 over the Stye from Borrowdale; a short 116 cut from Eskdale over a ridge of 117 Scawfell, by Burnmoor Tarn, which road 118 descends upon the head of the Lake; and 119 the principal entrance from the open 120 country by the Strands at its foot. This 121 last is much the best approach. Wastdale 122 is well worth the notice of the Traveller 123 who is not afraid of fatigue; no part of 124 the country is more distinguished by 125 sublimity. Wastdale may also be visited 126 from Ambleside; by going up 127 Langdale, over Hardknot and 128 Wrynose—down Eskdale and by Irton 129 Hall to the Strands; but this road can 130 only be taken on foot, or on 131 horseback, or in a cart. 132 133 ENNERDALE. 134 This Vale and Lake, though presenting 135 some bold features, are only to be taken 136 as leading to something else; the Vale 137 may be approached by Pedestrians, at its 138 head, from Wastdale; and also over the 139 mountains from Buttermere; and, by an 140 indifferent Carriage-road, either from 141 Calder Bridge, or Loweswater. 142 143 THE VALE OF BUTTERMERE, &c. 144 145 We are again in the beaten track of the 146 Lakes, I will therefore pass to 147 149 1 ↓ We will conclude with 2 3 ULLSWATER ULLSWATER, 4 ↓ 5 As being, perhaps, upon the whole, the 6 happiest combination of beauty and 7 grandeur, which any of the Lakes 8 affords. It lies not more than ten miles 9 from Ambleside, and the Pass of 10 Kirkstone and the descent from it are 11 very impressive; but, notwithstanding, 12 this Vale, like the others, loses much 13 of its effect by being entered from the 14 head: so that it is better to go 15 Is finely approached from Keswick* Is finely approached from Keswick 16 [Note] by Matterdale and Lyulph's [Note deleted] through by Matterdale 17 Tower into Gowbarrow Park; —a and Lyulph’s Tower, and descend upon 18 magnificent view is unfolded of the Gowbarrow Park; you are thus brought 19 two higher reaches of the Lake. Airey at once upon a magnificent view is 20 Force thunders down the Ghyll on the unfolded of the two 21 left, at a small distance from the road. 22 If Ullswater be approached from 23 Penrith, a mile and a half brings you to 24 the winding vale of Emont, and the 25 prospects increase in interest till you 26 reach Patterdale; but the first four 27 miles along Ullswater by this road are 28 comparatively tame, and in order to 29 see the lower part of the Lake to 30 advantage, it is necessary to go round 31 by Pooly-bridge, and to ride at least 32 three miles along the Westmorland 33 side of the water, towards Martindale. 34 The views, especially if you ascend 35 from the road into the fields, are 36 magnificent; yet this is only mentioned 37 that the transient Visitant may know 38 what exists; for it would be 39 inconvenient to go in search of them. 40 They who take this course of three or 41 four miles on foot, should have a boat 42 in readiness at the end of the walk, to 43 carry them across to the Cumberland 44 side of the Lake, near Old Church, 45 thence to pursue the road upwards to 46 Patterdale. The Church-yard Yew- 47 tree survives at Old Church, but there tree still survives 48 are no remains of a Place of Worship, a 49 New Chapel having been erected in a 50 more central situation, which Chapel 51 was consecrated by the then Bishop of 52 Carlisle, when on his way to crown 53 Queen Elizabeth, he being the only 54 Prelate who would undertake the 55 office. It may be here mentioned that 56 Bassenthwaite Chapel, yet stands in a 57 bay as sequestered, as the Site of Old 58 Church; such situations having been 59 chosen in disturbed times to elude 60 marauders. 61 62 [Footnote] Pedestrians and Travellers [Footnote] Pedestrians and Travellers on 63 on horseback cross the lower part of horseback cross the lower part of St. 64 St. John’s Vale, but a carriage must go John’s Vale, but a carriage must go a few 65 a few miles along Hutton Moor before miles along Hutton Moor before it turns 66 it turns off. off. 150 1 The Trunk, or Body of the Vale of 2 Ullswater need not be further noticed, 3 as its beauties shew themselves: but the 4 curious Traveller may wish to know 5 something of its tributary Streams. 151 1 At Dalemain, about three miles from 2 Penrith, a Stream is crossed called the 3 Dacre, or Dacor, which name it bore 4 as early as the time of the Venerable 5 Bede. This stream does not enter the 6 Lake, but joins the Emont a mile 7 below; it rises in the moorish Country 8 about Penruddock, flows down a soft 9 sequestered Valley, passing by the 10 ancient mansions of Hutton John and 11 Dacre Castle. The former is pleasantly 12 situated, though of a character 13 somewhat gloomy and monastic, and 14 from some of the fields near Dalemain, 15 Dacre Castle, backed by the jagged 16 summit of Saddle Back, with the 17 Valley and Stream in front, forms a 18 grand picture. There is no other stream 19 that conducts to any glen or valley 20 worthy of being mentioned, till we 21 reach that which leads up to Airey 22 Force, and thence into Matterdale, 23 before spoken of. Matterdale, though a 24 wild and interesting spot, has no 25 peculiar features that would make it 26 worth the Stranger's while to go in 27 search of them; but in Gowbarrow 28 Park, the lover of Nature might linger 29 for hours. Here is a powerful Brook, 30 which dashes among rocks through a 31 deep glen, hung on every side with a 32 rich and happy intermixture of native 33 wood; here are beds of luxuriant fern, 34 aged hawthorns, and hollies decked 35 with honeysuckles; and fallow-deer 36 glancing and bounding over the lawns 37 and through the thickets. These are the 38 attractions of the retired views, or 39 constitute a foreground for ever- 40 varying pictures of the majestic Lake, 41 forced to take a winding course by 42 bold promontories, and environed by 43 mountains of sublime form, towering 44 above each other. At the outlet of 45 Gowbarrow Park, we reach a third 46 stream, which flows through a little 47 recess called Glencoin, where lurks a 48 single house, yet visible from the road. 49 Let the Artist or leisurely Traveller 50 turn aside to it, for the buildings and 51 objects around them are romantic and 52 picturesque. Having passed under the 53 steeps of Styebarrow Crag, and the 54 remains of its native woods, at 55 Glenridding Bridge, a fourth Stream is 56 crossed. 152 1 The opening on the side of Ullswater 2 Vale, down which the Stream flows, is down which this the Stream 3 adorned with fertile fields, cottages, 4 and natural groves, that agreeably 5 unite with the transverse views of the 6 Lake; and the Stream, if followed up 7 after the enclosures are left behind, 8 will lead along bold water-breaks and 9 waterfalls to a silent Tarn in the 10 recesses of Helvellyn. This desolate 11 spot was formerly haunted by eagles, 12 that built in the precipice which forms 13 its western barrier. These birds used to 14 wheel and hover round the head of the 15 solitary angler. It also derives a 16 melancholy interest from the fate of a 17 young man, a stranger, who perished 18 some years ago, by falling down the 19 rocks in his attempt to cross over to 20 Grasmere. His remains were discovered 21 by means of a faithful dog that had 22 lingered here for the space of three 23 months, self-supported, and probably 24 retaining to the last an attachment to 25 the skeleton of its master. But to 26 return to the road in the main Vale of 27 Ullswater.—At the head of the Lake 28 (being now in Patterdale) we cross a 29 fifth Stream, Grisdale Beck; this would 30 conduct through a woody steep, where 31 may be seen some unusually large 32 ancient hollies, up to the level area of 33 the Valley of Grisdale; hence there is a 34 path for foottravellers, and along 35 which a horse may be led, to 36 Grasmere. A sublime combination of 37 mountain forms appears in front while 38 ascending the bed of this valley, and 39 the impression increases till the path 40 leads almost immediately under the 41 projecting masses of Helvellyn. Having 42 retraced the banks of the Stream to 43 Patterdale, and pursued the road up 44 the main Dale, the next considerable 45 Stream would, if ascended in the same 46 manner, conduct to Deep-dale, the 47 character of which Valley may be 48 conjectured from its name. It is 49 terminated by a cove, a craggy and 50 gloomy abyss, with precipitous sides; a 51 faithful receptacle of the snows that are 52 driven into it, by the west wind, from 53 the summit of Fairfield. Lastly, having 54 gone along the western side of 55 Brother’s-water and passed Hartsop 56 Hall, a Stream soon after issues from a 57 cove richly decorated with native 58 wood. This spot is, I believe, never 59 explored by Travellers; but, from these 60 sylvan and rocky recesses whoever 61 looks back on the gleaming surface of 62 Brother’s-water, or forward to the 63 precipitous sides and lofty ridges of 64 Dove Crag, &c. will be equally pleased 65 with the beauty, the grandeur, and the 66 wildness of the scenery. 153 1 Seven Glens or Vallies have been 2 noticed, which branch off from the 3 Cumberland side of the Vale. The 4 opposite side has only two Streams of 5 any importance, one of which would 6 lead up from the point where it crosses 7 the Kirkstone-road, near the foot of 8 Brother's-water, to the decaying 9 hamlet of Hartsop, remarkable for its 10 cottage architecture, and thence to 11 Hayswater, much frequented by 12 anglers. The other, coming down 13 Martindale, enters Ullswater at 14 Sandwike, opposite to Gowbarrow 15 Park. No persons but such as come to 16 Patterdale, merely to pass through it, 17 should fail to walk as far as Blowick, 18 the only enclosed land which on this 19 side borders the higher part of the 20 Lake. The axe has here 21 indiscriminately levelled a rich wood 22 of birches and oaks, that divided this 23 favoured spot into a hundred pictures. 24 It has yet its land-locked bays, and 25 rocky promontories; but those 26 beautiful woods are gone, which 27 perfected its seclusion; and scenes, that 28 might formerly have been compared to 29 an inexhaustible volume, are now 30 spread before the eye in a single sheet, 31 magnificent indeed, but seemingly 32 perused in a moment! From Blowick a 33 narrow track conducts along the craggy 34 side of Place-fell, richly adorned with 35 juniper, and sprinkled over with 36 birches, to the Village of Sandwyke; a 37 few straggling houses, that with the 38 small estates attached to them, occupy 39 an opening opposite to Lyulph’s 40 Tower and Gowbarrow Park. This Gowbarrow Park. This stream 41 stream flows down Martindale, a valley flows down Martindale, a valley 42 deficient in richness, but interesting deficient in richness, but interesting 43 from its seclusion. In Vales of this from its seclusion. In Vales of this 44 character the general want of wood character the general want of wood 45 gives a peculiar interest to the scattered gives a peculiar interest to the scattered 46 cottages, embowered in sycamores; and cottages, embowered in sycamores; and 47 few of the Mountain Chapels are more few of the Mountain Chapels are more 48 striking than this of Martindale, striking than this of Martindale, 49 standing as it does in the centre of the standing as it does in the centre of the 50 Valley, with one dark yew-tree, and Valley, with one dark yew-tree, and 51 enclosed by “a bare ring of mossy enclosed by "a bare ring of mossy 52 wall.” The name of Boardale, a deep, wall." The name of Boardale, a deep, 53 bare, and houseless Valley, which bare, and houseless Valley, which 54 communicates with Martindale, shews communicates with Martindale, shews 55 that the wild Swine were once that the wild Swine were once 56 numerous in that nook; and numerous in that nook; and 57 Martindale Forest is yet one of the few Martindale Forest is yet one of the few 58 spots in England ranged over by red spots in England ranged over by red deer. These are the descendants of the deer. These are the descendants of the 59 aboriginal herds. In Martindale, aboriginal herds. In Martindale* [Note 60 the road loses sight of the Lake, and added], the road 61 leads over a steep hill, bringing you 62 again into view of Ullswater. Its lowest 63 reach, four miles in length is before 64 you; and the view terminated by the 65 long ridge of Cross Fell in the 66 distance. Immediately under the eye is 67 a deep-indented bay, with a plot of 68 fertile land, traversed by a small brook, 69 and rendered chearful by two or three 70 substantial houses of a more 71 ornamented and showy appearance 72 than usual in these wild spots. 73 than is usual in those these wild spots. 74 [New footnote] *See Page 122. [para. 75 121 above] *See Page 125 122. 76 154 1 From Poolly Bridge, at the foot of the 2 Lake, Hawes-water may be 3 conveniently visited. Hawes-water is a 4 lesser Ullswater, with this advantage, 5 that it remains undefiled by the 6 intrusion of bad taste. 155 1 Lowther Castle is about four miles 2 from Poolly Bridge, and, if during this 3 Tour the Stranger has complained, as 4 he will have had reason to do, of a 5 want of majestic trees, he may be 6 abundantly recompenced for his loss in 7 the far-spreading woods which 8 surround that mansion. surround that mansion. Visitants, for 9 the most part, see little of the beauty 10 THE END of these magnificent grounds, being 11 content with the view from the 12 Terrace; but the whole course of the 13 Lowther, from Askham to the bridge 14 under Brougham Hall, presents almost 15 at every step some new feature of river, 16 woodland, and rocky landscape. A 17 portion of this tract has, from its 18 beauty, acquired the name of the 19 Elysian Fields; —but the course of the 20 stream can only be followed by the 21 pedestrian. 22 23 THE END 24 25 NOTE.—Vide p. xii.—About 200 26 yards beyond the last house on the 27 Keswick side of Rydal village the road 28 is cut through a low wooded rock, 29 called Thrang Crag. The top of it, 30 which is only a few steps on the south 31 side, affords the best view of the Vale 32 which is to be had by a Traveller who 33 confines himself to the public road.