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• Short ‘N’ Snappy MADRAS • Frogmarched into the past • Two maps of Old Madras MUSINGS • A Tamil literary mission Vol. XVII No. 12 October 1-15, 2007 State’s still at No. 4 Fall in primary education and infrastructure ranking (By A Special Correspondent) amil Nadu retains its over of communication, the political “I’m sorry, Sir, I definitely can’t Tall fourth position among leaders have managed to fuel allow you to pass through with this Big States (those with an area growth. The State has emerged sharp and pointed collar!” of more than 35,000 sq. km. and as the fastest mover in a population of over five mil- investment, of which there is 100 ml of what?! lion) in the India Today 2007 evidence in plenty, and also as Remember the Age of State of States report. It is a po- the fastest growing consumer Aquarius, drenched with sition the State has held since market. Of course, having a harmony and understanding, 2003. Punjab No.1, Kerala No. with sympathy and trust 2 and Himachal Pradesh No.3 abounding? (Continued on page 6) Nice concept – except that we also retain their rankings for the got dumped with the Age of fifth successive year. One of MTC’s new buses. Security instead, with its dis- Among the Small States, tinct lack of everything long- Puducherry is No.1 for the sec- haired flower people had ond year in a row. Goa holds on MTC – Is it turning sung about. to its No. 2 position and Delhi “Security” is a must today, ob- to its No. 3 spot. viously, and you respect the irritating, invasive rules that Chandigarh tops the list of Union Territories for the fourth the corner? come with it. But sometimes... successive year. Andaman & Nicobar Islands is No. 2 for the he Metropolitan Transport Chithra, an irate commuter, when the cost of diesel was You’re standing in a bored line TCorporation (MTC) in wailed, “At some locations, Rs.18 (now it is Rs.35). Actu- at the airport, attention wan- third year in a row. The dering, when suddenly the achiever here is Lakshadweep, Chennai recently began a trial there are huge distances be- ally, 75% of the collection goes words ‘meat cleaver’ flash on which jumps two rankings to run of a global positioning sys- tween bus stops (for instance, to diesel charges. A recent traf- the TV screen. bag the No. 3 spot. tem for buses on two routes, no stops for route No. 1 be- fic survey by reporters of vari- “Meat cleaver”? 21G (-Broadway) tween Tank and ous dailies about deluxe buses India Today instituted its True, you don’t want travelling and 70 (Tambaram-). – Ehrlich Lab stop). even found a flower vendor who State of States report in 2003 to companions wielding these in Electronic display boards to in- Old unused stops still stand and used the Deluxe instead of the measure and compare the qual- confined spaces with no es- form commuters on arrival buses stop randomly. And if you Ordinary because she ‘could ity of governance at the State cape access, since grabbing a times of the next bus were to be don’t want to take an Express save time by tying flowers and level, where it has a direct im- passing cloud and toboggan- gradually introduced across the or Deluxe (which don’t stop at sitting comfortably’. The Travel ing through the blue sky is pact on the life of the common city. So, does this mean the ush- all the ‘ordinary’ stops), you just As You Please (TAUP) option out. man. But very little has changed ering in of a new era – initiated end up paying a higher fare on is increasingly becoming popu- But putting items on a banned in the rankings in the five years. a few months ago with new an M (minimum fare) service to lar Rs.30 per day, Rs.600 per list indicates both the possi- Punjab appears to be a text- bility of actually finding them buses and new services – in bus get to a bus stop where you can month and Rs.160 per week.” nestling in hand baggage, and book case of economic develop- ? Regular pay lower to get to where you But shouldn’t there be more official opinions about travel- ment, says the India Today re- bus commuters across the city, want! Bus drivers also ensure Ordinary services and fewer Ex- lers, and their ways. port. Puducherry has used its however, have had varied expe- presses/Deluxes, since most “Don’t forget the meat cleaver, strong agrarian economy to in- riences to share. l by Shobha Menon commuters are from the poorer dear. You know what those vest in health and infrastruc- working class. Says Balasubra- airline cutlets are like.” Since 1980, Munuswami, ture and attract investments. your ‘mandatory exercise’ by maniam, “We have 2675 buses Similarly, ‘axes’, or ‘bows and who works in the Slum Board Assam, although placed at stopping a few hundred yards in the MTC fleet at this point. arrows’. office at , has trav- No.14, has shown spectacular away from the bus-stop.” Only 12% are Deluxe, 10% LSS Now, who’d carry a set of B&A elled the bus route from results in poverty reduction by Meanwhile, the Managing and 13% Express. The earlier 2 casually by hand, even as part to Kotturpuram of a theatrical production, or trimming it down by 21 per Director of the MTC, R. slabs for passes have been re- and back. He said, “Earlier, at a competition of some kind? cent, says the report. The Balasubramaniam, pointed out, placed by the ‘Travel as you least once in half an hour I used A Blackberry? names at the bottom of the “There are only 4 slabs – Ordi- please (TAUP)’ scheme with a to get an LSS ( Limited Stop Yes. heap are all too familiar: Uttar nary, Limited Stop Service, Ex- single slab that caters to all Service) on the PP 21 route. But brass knuckles...? Pradesh, Orissa, Jharkhand and press and Deluxe. For ordinary buses. While six months ago the There are almost no ordinary What sorts of occupations re- Bihar, among the Big States, service, we charge Rs.6.50 per sales of the bus passes was quire these? services now. I used to spend and Arunachal Pradesh, 40 km. In Karnataka and Rs.20,000, now it is Rs.35,000. Think of the airport staff, and Rs.20 to Kotturpuram and Tripura, Manipur and Megha- Andhra, the same 40 km is Last year, 35 lakh people used their work that centres on back, now I’ve to pay Rs.35 and laya among the Small States. charged Rs.18 and fares are the MTC per day. Now it is 135 that most erratic of elements that too if I get the Express or Commenting on Tamil raised just about a day or two lakh per day. In June 2006, the — human behaviour. Deluxe bus! Now I’ve switched And thank your stars, you don’t Nadu, India Today report says: after a diesel price hike. The cash loss was Rs.10 crore. This have their job. “Despite a volatile political at- over to using the train service fare in is a minimal Ranjitha Ashok mosphere and virtually no line where possible. ” 28 p/km, revised last in 2001, (Continued on page 7) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS October 1-15, 2007 Frogmarched The high jump at Central into a he Man from Madras be looked into. They are in not been written on the sub- T Musings was at the Central inifinitely worse condition than ject. The pipes were laid, the Station a few days ago. Security those on the ground floor and sand was filled in and then the fascinating past had been “beefed up” (to quote the space between the rows was openings were cemented over, a commonly used expression) wholly inadequate. only to reveal that the concrete owing to some threat or the MMM also notices that a tea now was a good one foot above or the fourth year running, in the South, quite unlike those other and the Railways had shop that was in illegal occupa- ground level, effectively block- Fthe Chennai Heritage Week who might be regarded as their geared themselves for the tion of space near the Academy ing all the drives and gates, (19-26 August), organised by a counterparts in the North. occasion in characteristic fash- entrance has vanished and a making ingress and exit of ve- band of heritage buffs, took the “They were,” he explained, ion. First, a rope had been new gate is coming up there, hicles impossible and endan- ordinary citizen by the collar in the course of an illustrated strung across the entire station making for demarcated and gering people trying to cross and frogmarched him through a lecture, “married to the Gods in entrance at around 4 feet separated entry and exit from them at night. These people fascinating encounter with the their respective temples and height. This was, presumably, TTK Road. It is, however, a faced further danger from the past. highly-respected individuals. to prevent people from walking pity that the gate on Cathedral open manholes just a few feet In a sense, the festival was a They owned their own property in, in any and whichever way Road is more or less perma- apart on this new ‘pavement’. they pleased, and to get them nently closed owing to the “Raise your ground level” was small but significant victory for and the inheritance passed from to use designated pathways for flyover. MMM also wonders as the offhand reply of those who Madras Musings that has been mother to daughter. They could entry and exit. Unfortunately to how the Music Academy and laid the drain. Obviously the tirelessly championing various never become widows and, for the railways, men (and its neighbours are planning to authorities that ordered the civic causes, from cleaning up when they died, the cloth that women) of Madras that is contend with the Government drain and the raised covering the city’s dirty drains and filthy was placed on the devadasi’s Chennai are an adventurous lot plan to acquire land on either have no obligation to the citi- waterways to finding ways of body was the one that adorned and most took the rope literally side of the flyover. zens they are inconveniencing. renovating the fading architec- the God. in their stride. The more agile On a different note, a little MMM wonders what it is tural glories of the colonial era. “In fact, even in my family, it jumped over it and the less bird whispered to MMM that that prevents the various agen- It has at last found an answer- was considered to be very lucky abled bent and slid under it in a the Music Academy’s Journal, cies from coordinating with way that would have made presently in arrears since 2002, each other even on such simple ing echo, with a number of when purchasing a diamond Nadia Comaneci proud. Those is all set to make a comeback matters in our city. Each year, young people taking up the earring to make sure that it had who were saddled with bags slid this year. It is a consummation the manholes have a kind of pro- cause of heritage. Some of them once come from one of these the bags underneath the rope devoutly to be wished for. tective wall built around them have started their own area- women. It was a symbol of good and then did the high jump which become traffic hazards. based tabloids, thereby reinforc- fortune.” themselves, and one enterpris- Next, the road level is raised to ing the notion that Chennai is As he traced their story with ing child used its bag to give it- SHORT match the drain, as the differ- still a collection of small the help of a slide show, he de- self a leg up over the rope and ’N’ ence in heights prevents water villages. scribed how their times of glory then pulled the bag across. All from flowing in. Then, buildings “I think what we really lack at the famous Brihadeeswarar in all, it was an active morning SNAPPY in the area raise their plinth lev- is an easily recognisable meet- Temple in Thanjavur were for those at the station. els as otherwise they go below Next, there was an X-Ray road level. Thereafter, along ing place,” explains Sushila slowly eclipsed by the Marathas’ machine like the ones we have Away with hoardings? comes the drain-laying author- at airports. Only, here there ity and raises the level of the was just one machine for the ast month, the city police drains once more. When will it many hundreds that come to Ldid what the Corporation all end? l by GEETA DOCTOR the station and everyone had to ought to have done ages ago. MMM notices that in cities Namely, removing the illegal in Mint, August 31, 2007 get his/her bags screened. The abroad, relaying a road invari- chaos had to be seen to be be- hoardings, political or other- ably means removing the old lieved. Passengers who had wise, that had broken out like a macadam, exposing the earth come in late were on tenter- rash alongside important road and then laying the road to the Ravindranath, Editor of The growing power. As the colonial hooks, as the queue took its intersections and traffic lights, same original level. The drains New Sunday Express, who was at powers gained ascendancy in time to snake its way. Porters thereby making life miserable always remain a level below the the forefront of the current Madras, the devadasis shifted cursed and tempers ran high. for motorists and pedestrians. road surface. How is it that in initiative. “It is not easy for us their base to the new centre of Also, given the sheer numbers, The removal began with our country alone we follow a to rally around any well-known privilege. MMM was in doubts if any much fanfare and all the tem- different method? Is it because check of what the X-Ray re- porary creations extolling lead- we always aim “high”? spot as they might do with the One of the old Indian elite’s ers for their achievements Kala Ghoda Festival in standard ways of offering enter- vealed was really done. More likely, it was a mere formality (past, present and future) were Westernising cities Mumbai,” she adds. tainment to the English masters pulled down. However, The “So, we threw it open to as was to bring on the devadasis, that added to the tensions of catching a train. Man from Madras Musings page from a recent news- many people as possible, and much as the Moghuls did in the could not help noticing that Aletter from INTACH made it a really fun kind of heri- North with their nautch girls. Rialto at Central some hoardings, especially headquarters caught the atten- tage festival. For me, the high One of the observers of the those close to political party of- tion of The Man from Madras point was to take an early morn- scene, Thomas Salmon, wrote ike Venice, Central Station fices and those facing the resi- Musings. It described what it ing walk through George Town, in 1699: “Female choristers Lalso has a neat little wooden dences of some of our leaders, termed a post-colonial malaise: under the guidance of V. make up part of the equipage of bridge rather like the Rialto. were left untouched. Why these the desire to create a global city The Man from Madras Musings were allowed to remain will re- that is automatically under- Sriram, and discover the im- a great man when he goes noticed that it does not span main a mystery like The Man in stood as a Westernised and mense wealth of history that abroad; for every man of figure any waterbody, but merely con- The Iron Mask. sanitised one. It went on to re- lurks there. It’s the sort of heri- in the country I observed had a nects one lane of the con- MMM also noticed that the gret that “the dialogue between tage that other cities would die number of these singing women course, where passengers are casuarina poles that were used the Government and local for and, yet, we are barely aware run before him, even the Gov- picked up/dropped, to the to put up these hoardings were stakeholders only takes place of it today,” she continues. ernor of Fort St. George was at- other. It is a wholly unneces- allowed to remain in situ. On through confrontation, often in Sriram has tossed aside both tended by 50 of them, as well as sary piece of beautification and, enquiry, MMM was told by a court. Yet, if we were to re- convention and conformity in by the country music when he what is worse, it does not ramp party worker that, in any case, a evaluate our intellectual bag- showcasing the lives of a once went out.” down to ground level. On both few days later, the hoardings gage (which presumes that a ends, it steps down and this will be back and allowing the Western model of city-plan- splendid community of dancers This does not fit in exactly makes the carting of bags poles to remain where they ning is appropriate every- and musicians (devadasis) who, with Sriram’s image of excel- across it a very difficult task. were was a good way of saving where) and reformulate our in their role as temple dancers, lence and virtue suggested by on wood! Who said environ- planning process (to make it graced the inner sanctum of the the term devadasis, though it The Academy prepares mental awareness was low in participatory rather than top- Gods. They later became orna- does suggest how some of their our city? down and punitive), it is pos- ments in the courts of southern kind might have had to adjust he Man from Madras sible to create a modern city T Musings learns that the Rising drains that is simultaneously sensitive kingdoms such as Thanjavur to the changing times. It was, he Old Lady of The Music Season, and Mysore. says, a combination of the to local needs and responsive to our own Academy, is undergo- he drains in the main are global standards.” During his guided tour of change in attitudes that came ing a facelift and preparing her- Tgoing to cause a lot of pain, George Town, he pointed out with the Victorian era and the MMM may be pardoned for self for the season ahead. to reword a popular song. It was thinking that this was a tract that this was once a celebrated creation of a Western-educated MMM is told that the seats in only last fortnight that The Man pertaining to Chennai. It was neighbourhood for both music Brahmin elite – a middle class the ground floor of the audito- from Madras Musings had writ- not. But the same passage can and dance, with 2,000 women that wanted to appropriate the rium have all been changed and ten about the travails of the be taken as equally descriptive who were not only well-versed hereditary landed rights of the will make for more comfortable residents of a particular area of what goes on here. in the performing arts, but were devadasis – and their own seating. MMM wonders if the when the drains were relaid. seats in the first floor will also The last word had apparently educated and independent and – MMM belonged to a unique tradition (Continued on page 6) October 1-15, 2007 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

More transport – and greater safety – the need Temple entry – I hennai has a population of 46 lakh which may increase to and street vendors and hawkers who occupy almost the entire C58 lakh in about 10 years. To meet the needs of this popula- width of some roads. But it is equally necessary for the CMDA to eader C. Balasubraman- tion, efficient public transport services are essential. identify places for relocating such vendors. R iam’s letter (MM, Septem- The MTC which had a fleet strength of 2773 buses in 2004 There is urgent need to initiate steps for ensuring road safety ber 1st) has raised the issue of operating in 537 routes and carrying about 36 lakh passengers a in the city and the State. Safety clinics must be provided for driv- the ban “on non-Hindus enter- day will have to increase it several-fold in the near future. There ers of school buses, goods carriers and public transport vehicles. is overcrowding in buses during peak hours. Waiting time at the The drivers must be made aware of speed limits to avoid acci- ing Hindu temples”. His subse- bus stops has increased, causing inconvenience and irritation to dents. The authorities must install monitoring cameras particu- quent comments in his letter passengers. The number of goods vehicles is increasing at the rate larly in accident-prone zones to control speed and punish the err- show that he looks upon these of 50% per annum and has reached 1,647,185 in 2007. The num- ing drivers. It is also necessary that emergency medical services, “historic” temples as places of ber of two-wheelers has grown to about 14 lakh. Similarly, the like ambulances, adequate First Aid training programmes for the tourist interest. This is really the number of motor cars has also increased several-fold. There is Police and drivers of the vehicles to save the lives of accident crux of the matter. acute shortage of parking space for all types of vehicles. victims during the Golden Hour, which is 24 hours from the time For devotees The CMDA proposal for a comprehensive transportation of accident, should be evolved. The drivers must be taught to visiting these temples, these are study of Chennai, at a cost of Rs. 2 crore and to be completed in strictly follow the road rules, avoid driving after consuming alco- holy places of worship and 18 months, must take note of the reality in the City and should hol or when feeling drowsy. Safer vehicles are essential for reduc- evolve various steps for improving public transport (the majority ing the number of accidents. In-built safety measures in vehicles prayer and they seek the Lord’s of population cannot afford to own cars and are unwilling to get are essential. In commercial vehicles, there should be collapsible blessings. This is a matter of fleeced by auto drivers). steering columns, rear view mirrors, windshield of laminated faith and belief for them and the MTC is certainly doing a good job and is definitely one of the safety glass, exhaust brakes, improved wiper blades, headlights, idols in the temples represent best bus services in the country. Yet it does not adequately cater automatic dippers, reflectors, speed governors for heavy vehicles, God in various forms. to the need of general public. The roads are very narrow for ve- etc. For people of non-Hindu ori- hicles to pass through and there are repeated traffic jams, espe- The most important thing is to induce fear in the minds of gin, idol worship is evil and cially during the marriage season and during the visits of political violators by strict enforcement. In the cases of drivers with many times a matter of ridicule. leaders. Many of the existing roads have got to be widened by records of repeated violations, cancellation of licences must be With such a mindset, if a non- demolishing shops and houses on both sides of the road, irrespec- mandatory. Hindu visits the temple, it is tive of protests by their owners. For a plan that determines the city’s future for next 20 years, The Transport Department should introduce Point to Point the planners in the Transportation Sector must work towards either as a picnic or of tourist (PP) buses – for instance, to Parry’s, Parry’s to environmental protection and prevention of accidents. nature, and not to pray and Thiruvallur, Parry’s to T’ Nagar, etc. – to avoid frequent stops. worship. The minimum that is Bus shelters are a basic need and it is the responsibility of the C. Lakshmi Narain needed before temple entry is authorities to provide decent, protected, habitable shelters. I have No. 4, Kondi Chetty Street “at least respect the Hindu filed a PIL petition praying for such shelters. III Floor, (Opp. High Court) belief, if not accept it”. The Government should also ruthlessly remove the pavement Chennai 600 001

R.V. Chandramouli IAS (RTD.) B/2, Ramanalaya 21 First Crescent Park Road Gandhinagar, Adyar visit our temples not for any spect the norms prescribed if the early printing efforts in TV5 Monde ran a feature film Chennai 600 020 devotional or religious purpose they want to enter. Madras’ (MM, September 1st). on Shah of Iran, Reza Pahlavi. Temple entry – II but to view them only as a With all this, my article said The writer has said that S.S. The name Pahlavi sounded to showplace and we do not know that one might still be an athe- Vasan’s picture never appeared me like Pallava. So I collected read with interest the letter how they would be interpreting ist or agnostic. So the foreigner in Ananda Vikatan during his the following details from the Iof reader C. Balasubra- us in their own lands after pho- need not certify that he believes lifetime. This is not true. internet. maniam (MM, September 1st). tographing inside our temples. in Hinduism, as it is prescribed Vasan’s picture, along with that 1. Pahlavi: A middle Persian I daily see many foreigners in- Several young foreign now in some temples. of S.A.P. Annamalai and C. language spoken in pre-Islamic side the Sri Kapaleeswarar women are scantily clad and no- Subramaniam, was featured in Iran from 3rd Century BCE to Dr. G. Sundaram Temple. Though they are not body knows if they are ‘clean’ or the magazine when it was 9th Century CE during the rule (RTD.) allowed inside the sanctum not. I found a foreign gentle- IAS selecting the winners of a con- of Sassanian dynasty. Naresh “Burma House” sanctorum, they are permitted man smoking near the Dwajas- test it had held for its readers in and Vistahm (a corrupted form upto the Ardha Mantapam, and 33/18, 9th Street thambam and asked him to put Dr. Radhakrishnan Road the late 1950s or early 1960s. of Vishnu? Note the names of have a full view of the main dei- it out. They need to respect Narasimha and Simha Vishnu Chennai 600 004 P.K. Visvesvaran ties inside the sanctum. these places of worship, even if of Pallava dynasty) are names of Be that as it may, the hard More demolition 1759, Vasanth Colony they see them only as ‘sights’. 18th Main Road persons of that period. reality is that other religionists 2. Pahlavi is the royal house T.M. Sundararaman n Madras Musings of Septem- Chennai 600 040 Iber 1st, your Special Corre- name. Pahlavan is a village on 19, Nallappan Street Persian Pallavan Mylapore, Chennai 600 004 spondent has stated “... initiat- Azarbayjan-e-Gharbi, in Iran. Could Pallavan be a corrupted READABILITY ing action against unauthorised he dynasties of the king- Temple entry – III development shall be deemed Tdoms were known by form of Pahlavan? PLEASE eader C. Balasubramaniam to have been suspended and no different names, Mauryas, Will the historians probe punitive action shall be taken further? Dear Readers, Rhas asked for comments Pallavas, Pandyas, etc. None of (MM, September 1st) on his for a year.” I wonder if this is the textbooks reveals why they S.N. Mahalingam As letters from readers increase, suggestion of temple entry to anyway linked with the demoli- were called by such names. 64-A, Kalamegam Street Extn. we are receiving more and more foreigners. tion activities that have started The French TV channel Kamarajapuram, Chennai 600 073 hand written letters, many of As far back as 1996, I wrote in the D’Monte Colony located them in a hand so small and in the Times of India that entry between TTK and St. Mary’s illegible or large and scrawled as should be allowed freely as long Roads (near Park Sheraton to be unreadable. Often this Hotel). leads to our discarding a letter, as they are clean and properly Our Addresses particularly if some part of it is clad. This reminds me of a con- It is being said that the area For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of has been leased for commercial unreadable. versation I had with my friend, receipts etc.: Chennai Heritage, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, West Cott Road, the former Home Secretary, purposes – and this may lead to If you wish us to consider your Royapettah, Chennai 600 014. Padmanabiah. We happened to cutting of trees, destroying the letter for publication, please type flora, etc. Is the city to lose yet For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other it with enough space between have ‘darshan’ together at Tirupathi. He asked me another green area to circulation matters: MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o Lokavani Southern lines or write it using a medium Printers Pvt. Ltd., 62/63, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. hand, clearly dotting the ‘i-s’ and whether we could go inside the commercialisation? On editorial matters: The Editor, MADRAS MUSINGS, crossing the ‘t-s’. sanctum sanctorum to see the Commodore Prem Kumar other side of the Lord. I told C/o Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 62/63, Greames Road, Many readers also try to fill every VSM (RTD.) square centimetre of a postcard him that they would not allow Flat No. 3B, Rear Block Chennai 600 006. space, making reading or editing us; even if they allowed us, we Sri Venkatesa Nilayam No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will impossible. should not go in because we 107, St. Mary’s Road be sent from these addresses every couple of days to the persons were not properly clad as a Chennai 600 018 concerned and you will get an answer from them to your queries Please help us to consider your priest and perhaps we were also letters more favourably by mak- Vasan’s picture reasonably quickly. Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail not fully clean. He did not ar- mail’ approach, we will be able to help you faster and disappoint you ing them more legible for us. gue the point and agreed with his is with reference to the less. – THE EDITOR me. So the foreigners should re- Tarticle ‘Looking back on THE EDITOR 4 MADRAS MUSINGS October 1-15, 2007 October 1-15, 2007 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 Two Special Madras Two maps of Old Madras Postal Covers (By a Staff Reporter) wo Special Postal Covers released by Tthe Postal Department commemorated important Madras events. On August 19th, the centenary of the , founded on 15.8.1907, was commemorated with a special cover whose design reflected another August 15th forty years later. It is understood that 5,00,000 covers were printed and distributed to post offices wherever the Indian Bank had branches in the country and were quickly bought up by the Bank’s customers. The five rupee stamp on this cover featured the Niligiris Gaur (Bison). Then, on August 22, 2007, to mark , the Principal Chief Postmaster General, Tamil Nadu Circle, released another Special Cover commemorating the 368th birthday of the city. L.K. Tripathy, I.A.S., Chief Secretary, Government of Tamil Nadu, received it. The multicoloured special cover, measur- ing 22 x 11 cm, was printed using the latest printing technology, making the cover a truly collector’s item. The front of the cover featured the 18th Century layout of Fort St. George. This layout (featured in detail alongside) was printed in multicolours and with a glossy, embossed effect. The envelope also featured a picture of Madras Roads, with sailing ships at anchor. The diamond-shaped postal cancellation featured the famous flagmast of Fort St. George, which was the tallest in India. The Rs.5 denomination multicoloured stamp on the cover depicted majestic Senate House of the . The back of the cover had 10 black-and- white photographs of old Madras from 1885 to 1923, together with a brief history of the heritage city. The cover concept was con- ceived and designed by numismatists, notaphilists and philatelists D.H. Rao and S.B. Raja Seetharaman. Pitt’s Madras – the survey for it began 300 years ago

homas Pitt, ‘Pirate Pitt’ to many, was Governor of Madras from 1698 to 1709. He who had been once Tdescribed by the Directors of East India Company as “a desperate fellow, and one that, we fear, will not stick at doing any mischief that lies in his power,” had the longest stint of any Governor of Madras, “a period which proved to be the Golden Age of Madras n respect of the development of trade and increasing of wealth.” One of his contributions was what has been called Pitt’s Map of Madras, stated to be the first accurate map of any city in India. It’s never been dated accurately but was published in 1711 after a survey that Pitt ordered and which began, from all accounts, 300 years ago this year. The only original engraving of the map known to be in existence is in Oxford’s famed Bodleian Library. And it is from the internal evidence in the map that it becomes apparent that the survey probably began in 1707 and the map included details that date up to 1711. The map names streets inside and outside the Fort, it shows significant private properties, and places of worship. The most striking feature of White Town (Fort St. George) is the exact shape of the Inner Fort wherein was the Governor’s ‘Castle’. It is centred to the east in a square enclosed by four walls and protected by large triangular bastions in the corners. To the southeast of the Inner Fort’s neighbour, St. Mary’s Church, and near the eastern walls, is the Town Hall, clearly depicted as a domed building that the Presidency College’s latter day dome might well have drawn inspiration from. South of the Fort is The Island with Pitt’s tree-lined Great Walk clearly seen. North of the Fort is the first ‘Black Town’, even then developed on a gridiron pattern and protected on three sides by walls and on the fourth by the sea. Almost in the centre of ‘Black Town’ is “The Great Pagoda” (the Chennakesava Perumal Temple), about where the southern edge of today’s High Court campus is. Also marked are ‘The English Burying Place’ (whose vestiges still remain in a corner of the Law College campus) and ‘The Armenian Church’, across from where Handloom House now is. Across from Black Town’s northern wall is ‘Muttial Peta’ which developed as the New Black Town (George Town) in the 1750s. But the gridiron pattern was already in place, as the map shows. The street Fort St. George in the 18th Century names here are rather different from today’s: Mud Point Street, Comatee Street, Malabars Street, Chitee Street and Fisher Street are marked. Prominently indicated is Rodrigues Tomb, that of the local Jewish A. GOVERNOR’S HOUSE & HOUSE), now the Pay and Ac- the Public Exchange Hall and Light- leader. Separated from Black Town and Muttial Peta by ‘The Cannall of the Pedda’ and ‘Gardens’ (fields and COUNCIL CHAMBER, now As- counts Office and the office of the house, now the Fort Museum. L. groves) is ‘Comer Pete or Peddanaigue Pete’, already gridironed but with a set of street names different from sembly Hall, Secretariat and Minis- Archaeological Survey of India, FLAGSTAFF, the tallest in the land. today’s. Already in place are ‘Allingalls Pagoda’ (Ekambareswarar Temple) and ‘Loraines Pagoda’ terial Offices. B. TOWN HALL, Southern Circle. F. WELLESLEY M. PARADE GROUND (CORN- (Bairagimadam Temple). now Army’s Fort Offices. C. St. HOUSE, now Defence Offices. G. WALLIS SQUARE). N. Fort House. South of Peddanaigue Pete and nestling in a curve of the Elambore River (now ) and MARY’S CHURCH. D. GUARD THE ARSENAL, now Defence Of- P. Bank. Q. New Secretariat across from The Island is ‘The Company’s Garden’, Pitt’s rest-and-recreation ‘country seat’. There’s a small ROOM, where the Public Relations fices. H. KING’S BARRACKS, then Multistorey Building. R. CORN- fort on the south, a walled enclosure north of it and a mansion on the east with a tree-lined walk/drive Office, Ministry of Defence, now is. as now. J. BARRACKS, then as now. WALLIS CUPOLA. S. Police leading to it. E. CLIVE HOUSE (ADMIRALTY K. OFFICERS’ MESS, and before that Station. T. Hospital. U. Post Office What a magnificent picture of 70-year-old Madras this 300-year-old map, seen above, offers!

CMYK 6 MADRAS MUSINGS October 1-15, 2007

Himachal Pradesh at its No. 2. Kerala is No. 3, as it was last Going back year. Karnataka slips a place to State’s still No.8, while Andhra Pradesh re- into mains at No. 10. Among the Small States, following Delhi the past and Goa, Puducherry is third. The variables include per- (Current Affairs questions are (Continued from page 2) centage of households with from the period September 1st at No. 4 electricity, percentage of vil- marginalised status within the to 15th. Questions 11 to 20 lages connected with pucca community that led to their be- pertain to Tamil Nadu and roads (surfaced and unsur- ing labelled women of easy vir- Chennai.) (Continued from page 1) Puducherry does not figure faced), road length/population, tue, whose rights had to be de- 1. Which Asian country was large contingent of Union Cabi- in the top 3 among the Small number of bank branches/popu- nied to them forever by an act rocked by multiple earthquakes net Ministers from the State has States. lation, number of LPG consum- of legislation. in early September leading to tsu- helped, but it has worked hard The variables included in- ers/total households, number of What was extraordinary, nami warnings in India? to attract investments by in- verse of infant mortality ratio post offices/population, and however, was how everyone of 2. Name the Jamaican athlete vesting in social and political in- (IMR), male IMR / female IMR, number of telephone connec- the women he characterised, who bettered his own 100m world frastructure. Arguably, if the percentage of births assisted by tions/population. record in Italy on September 9th. Veena Dhanammal, Mylapore health and education scores trained personnel, percentage Gowriamma and Mysore 3. In which European country of households with access to tap Consumer market talks aimed at ending sectarian had not dropped, the State Nagarathnamma and, finally, could have been in the top water, registered doctors per Tamil Nadu moves a step up the incandescent Balasaraswati, violence in Iraq were held suc- lakh population, sex ratio, State cessfully? three.” to No. 6. Punjab remains India’s found a resonance in the This year, India Today fo- Government expenditure on No.1 consumer market as it has memory of the equally well- 4. Which former President of an public health, and family wel- Asian country was found guilty of cussed its State of States report been the past five years. educated and receptive audi- plunder and sentenced to life im- on the themes of inclusive fare/population. Himachal Pradesh and Haryana ence. retain their No. 2 and No. 3 po- prisonment after being in custody growth and poverty reduction. Investment environment In one of the evening ses- for more than six years? sitions of the past three years. In his editorial, Aroon Purie, sions, Gowri Ramnarayan, a Tamil Nadu ranks No.7, but Kerala remains at No. 5, 5. Name the world record ex- Editor-in-Chief, mentions that granddaughter of the celebrated plorer, the first human to solo is the ‘fastest mover’, or the Karnataka goes down a step to the National Sample Survey Kalki, writer, dramatist and around the world in a balloon, State where the rate of im- No. 10, while Andhra Pradesh Organisation data between stalwart of the freedom move- who went missing over the Ne- provement on overall perfor- remains at No. 11. 1993 and 2005 shows that while ment, not only spoke on music vada desert in the first week of mance between 2003 and 2007 Puducherry does not figure poverty figures are down, pov- but also entertained the crowd September. is greater than the rate of im- in the top 3 among the Small erty is still rampant in absolute with her own spontaneous ren- 6. Name the famous Italian tenor provement between 1991 and States. who passed away on September terms. The top 20 per cent of dering of the compositions they 2003. The top three places go The variables are percentage 6th after a battle with pancreatic salary earners in India earn 50 wanted to hear. In some ways, to Gujarat, which retains its of households owning TV, afflu- cancer. per cent of the country’s total it was a coming together of the No.1 ranking, Maharashtra, ent households per 1,000 per- 7. To which place was former salary income, while the bottom many different strands of and Himachal Pradesh. sons in rural area with monthly Pakistan Prime Minister Nawaz 20 per cent earn less than 5 per Chennai’s past in an atmo- Karnataka is No. 6 (one posi- per capita expenditure (MPCE) Sharif deported soon after his re- cent. Purie writes that these sphere that was full of nostalgia tion better than last year), within Rs. 690 - 1,155 and turn to Pakistan after an ‘exile’ of “damning numbers” exist be- and even a sense of longing for seven years? Andhra Pradesh is No. 10 (the more, affluent households per cause of the sustained failure of all that has been lost. 8. Which African country governance in areas of educa- same as last year), and Kerala is 1,000 persons in urban area entered the third millennium on tion and skills training and the No. 16 (the same as the past with MPCE within Rs. 930 - The hotels in the city rose to September 11th, seven years after development of infrastructure. two years). 2,540 and more, bank deposits/ the challenge. The Taj Coro- the rest of the world, as it follows The editorial calls for State in- Among the Small States, population, and two-wheeler/ mandel recreated the recipes of the Julian calendar? tervention – aggressive invest- Puducherry retains its No. 1 po- population. Chennai’s most famous writer 9. Which cyber giant, in associa- ment in social and physical in- sition. of cookbooks, S. Meenakshi tion with the X Prize Foundation, Law & Order frastructure – and stresses that The variables were percent- Ammal, whose three volumes of will award $20 million to the first Tamil Nadu retains the sec- the 2007 State of States report age of State GDP spent on ad- recipes titled Samaithu Paar private team to put a robot on the ond spot it has held since 2003. indicates the need to empower ministration, per capita capital have become such a resource moon? Kerala tops the list for the fifth the population in order to capi- expenditure, commercial bank for brides departing to North 10. Which F1 team was slapped a successive year and Karnataka, talise on the gains of the eco- credit, capital formation, num- America that she was named huge $100 million fine and had its moving a step up to No. 3, has points scrapped for spying on the nomic boom. ber of factories and industrial one of the 50 most influential been judged the ‘fastest mover’. Ferrari team? The report reveals the fol- disputes, sick small-scale indus- women of the sub-continent by tries, and the number of indus- Andhra Pradesh, however, does Cosmopolitan magazine. * * * lowing picture: trial workers per urban popula- not fare too well, and is ranked The ITC Welcomgroup Park 11. In which District is Alagappa Agriculture tion in the 15-59-year age group. No. 8. University? Sheraton created a high tea Tamil Nadu ranks No. 2, up Primary education Among Small States, around the theme “Memsahibs 12. Which poet/writer won the a step from its No.3 spot the Puducherry is at the top for the 1980 Sahitya Akademi Transla- Tamil Nadu, at No.6, is and Mamis”, serving hot dosas past four years. Punjab is as fourth year. and lemon tarts. Others tion Prize for his novel Cheraman down two places. Kerala is the The variables are actual Kadali? usual the leader, while Andhra organised tree walks, a tour of Pradesh is third, climbing two best State, getting back its 2004 strength of civil policemen/lakh 13. How does one better know ranking (it was at No.2 in 2005 Stone Age Madras at a site not ‘Chinnaswaamy Subramania notches. Karnataka is No.6 and population, percentage of pend- far from the city. Kerala No.13, retaining their and 2006). Himachal Pradesh, ing cases (under Indian Penal Iyer’? And there were art shows, 2006 positions. Puducherry is the No.1 ranked State the past Code), total cognisable crimes / 14. At which station was ‘Collec- displays in the local museums the top ranker among the Small two years is No.2 this year. incidence of murder, kidnap- tor Dorai’ Ashe shot by the free- and galleries, and a talk by a dom fighter Vanchinathan? States, as in the past four years. Karnataka falls two steps to ping, rape and molestation. No.9 and Andhra Pradesh three German scholar of the time 15. On which routes are The variables taken into ac- Budget & prosperity when the German warship, Em- airconditioned buses to ply in count for analysis included per- steps down to No. 12. Tamil Nadu ranks No. 8, up den, on a freak tour of the coast Chennai? centage of cropped area under Among Small States, two places from 2006. Punjab during World War I sent citi- 16. Which Tamil was the founder cash crops, gross state domestic Puducherry is not in the top 3. retains its lead of the past four zens scattering to the hinter- National Secretary of the BJP? product, rural population, elec- The variables are literacy years, followed by Himachal land by shelling the harbour. 17. For which type of entrepre- tricity consumption for agricul- rate, proportion of 10-plus chil- Pradesh, a ranking the State has neurial activity does the State ture/rural population, foodgrain dren having completed primary “Madras Week does not call enjoyed the past two years. Government give the yield, loans extended to agricul- education, ratio of girls to boys for wild parties, colourful wrist- Gujarat is No. 3, a spot up from ‘Manimekalai Award’? ture/households cultivating enrolled in primary and middle bands and ribbon-cutting last year. Kerala is No. 5, up two 18. Which social and religious land, net irrigated area, and net school, teacher-pupil ratio, to- events,” declares Vincent D’ leader has agreed to clean up the places, Andhra Pradesh re- sown area. tal expenditure of education de- Souza, Editor of the Mylapore Cooum? partment on primary plus mains at No. 9, while Karna- Primary health Times, who runs a heritage week 19. Whose monthly English middle school, and population taka has moved up one place to in December/January in the mouthpiece is The Modern Ratio- Tamil Nadu ranks No.3, re- within the 6-14-year age group. No. 10. city’s Mylapore temple area, “it nalist? taining the same spot since Goa takes the No. 1 slot invites you to enjoy the good 20. Which five post offices in Infrastructure 2003. Kerala gets back its No. 1 among Small States, moving things of the city.” Chennai have made Re.1 and ranking from Himachal Pradesh Tamil Nadu, surprisingly, from its No. 2 position of the Rs.2 coins available to the public The ghosts of the devadasis which falls to No. 2. Karnataka falls two places, to No.7. Punjab past three years. Puducherry at par, beginning September 10th? of George Town would have retains its No.1 ranking of the also moves a step up, to take the is No. 4, while Andhra Pradesh danced a round to that. (Answers on page 7) comes in at No. 9. past three years, as does No. 2 place. October 1-15, 2007 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

services (that can be operated Student research on loca- by drivers and kept closed on tions of the bus stops has also MTC – Is it the move) increased the cost of revealed that: the vehicle by Rs.25,000 to i) In certain areas, the bus October 5-28: Nirvana, an exhibi- Rs.35,000. A traffic improve- stops are too closely located, tion of photographs by Vinoth ment committee has recom- resulting in waste of time who lives and works in Chennai. turning mended to the State Govern- and space; His photographs are a witness to ment to introduce only buses ii) In many areas the bus stops an emotion of poetry in a uni- with doors, including those to are sparsely sited, forcing verse of poverty. For ‘Nirvana’, be operated for regular service, people to walk long dis- he has chosen to showcase sleep- as “this is the foolproof way to ing people. “It is only when we the corner? tances or to take other avoid footboard travel acci- sleep that we tend to forget ev- modes of transport; and erything – even ourselves – and (Continued from page 1) services are discontinued with dents.” However, Krishnan, a ‘regular’, pointed out that “in iii) Some bus stop locations are are almost in a state of Nirvana no announcement of changes in found to be hazardous, pos- June the cash profit was Rs 1.11 many buses the existing hydrau- which we cannot otherwise expe- the papers, new ones are intro- ing danger to other vehicles rience in our daily lives. A secret crore. We’ve turned the cor- lic doors aren’t closed because duced ad hoc,” complained an- and commuters, and also and intimate world that escapes ner!” the buses are overcrowded!” other commuter. And a resi- causing traffic congestion. reality.” P. James, who works in a dent of stated that An agitated group of girl stu- The inauguration at 6.30 p.m. However, another senior bus private firm and commutes the 52L route that is supposed dents travelling daily to the on October 5th will begin with driver pointed out, “With the regularly by bus across the city, to go via Thillaiganga Nagar Arts College from Iyyapan- songs sung by Tamil Arasan, who public waiting halfway into the drew attention to the fact that many times gives it a miss be- thangal to LIC bus stop con- has been singing for death rituals road, we can stop ‘correctly’ “even Deluxe buses carry more cause the crew would on that firmed this, “We lose atten- for 13 years and sung for more passengers than they should only when it rains and people than 5000 death ceremonies so day “be taking the Pazhavan- dance almost every day if we move under the bus shelters!” far. (At Alliance Francaise.) officially,” and wondered, thangal route.” But officials in- rely on the scheduled times of October 8-12: Movie Festival of “What was the point? Many sisted that these changes buses.” But Kochukrishnan, a Aiming to make bus travel Historical Mov- times, I prefer to take a share “must’ve been done over two senior citizen, says, “ Bus service more ‘commuter friendly’, how- ies in collabora- auto.” And the travel is similar years ago. Call our helpline and has improved tremendously in ever, are the Consumer Forum tion with to being “on a race track, for a we’ll follow up.” the last six months. From Meetings once in 3 months, ICAF. Veera- very cheap fare”. While “some Ashok Nagar to which about 8-10 Consumer pandiya On “the rank disregard for Federations attend, where sug- Kattabomman and back, I can travel on mini- traffic lights by bus drivers,” and gestions for proactive measures and Kappal Purushotham, present the on “many drivers racing each mum fare and comfortably, and Oattiya Tamilan will be thought process behind the mak- I’ve to wait for only five minutes come up. Minutes recorded are other even on GST Road, Anna followed up by the Operations, screened.(At 7.00 p.m. at ing of their music. The workshop Salai, SP Road, etc.” Balasubra- before I get a bus. But the bus Alliance Francaise.) Maintenance and other depart- will be followed by a short pre- maniam confirmed, “Earlier, we crew can certainly be more October 13: The Music of Sikkil view of their ongoing work, The friendly and polite.” ments. The Passenger Com- Gurucharan and Anil Srinivasan. Colour of Rain, which will be pre- agree, there was no action, but plaints Cell in the PRO’s office Priya, who travels from Sikkil Gurucharan is one of the miered later this year. (At 5-7.30 now fines imposed by traffic po- receives at least 2 or 3 com- Chennai Central to Anand youngest top-ranking artistes in p.m. at Alliance Francaise.) lice are promptly recovered plaints/suggestions a day, and Theatre bus stop regularly, said, the Carnatic firmament. Anil October 19: Lire en fête, a celebra- from the drivers’ salaries, and changes are introduced as and Srinivasan is an accomplished “During peak hours, the con- tion of books. The festival will this has been a deterrent.” when and where possible. For classical pianist. In an exclusive, revolve around theme A City, A ductors force the driver to stop Bus stops at important junc- suggestions, call PRO at two-hour workshop-cum-live Book. There will be readings on in-between, before the next tions, for instance, near 23455859, for emergencies or demonstratin, the duo, aided by this theme. (At 4.00 p.m. at Al- stage, generally near the MTC- the acclaimed percussionist B.S. liance Francaise.) Kathipara, for those boarding Pallavan House. Most of the breakdowns etc. call wireless mofussil buses will come up control room at 23455801, and office-goers are forced to go in “soon”. But what about the ap- for modification of routes call late. ‘Romba avasarama iruntha Our Addresses palling conditions that exist at Operations Section at autole porathuthane’ (‘If you’re in some bus stops/depots? One of 23455228. so much of a hurry, why don’t For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of receipts the bus stops at and you go by auto?’) is what we It’s certainly time for the bus etc.: Chennai Heritage, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, West Cott Road, also at Vijayanagar in Vela- hear if we dare hurry the con- passengers across Chennai to Royapettah Chennai 600 014. chery are a series of pits. The ductor!” James alleged, “During unite and ask for what they bus depot at Broadway, an im- For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other circulation one trip, a driver strode out of need in strident tones. A senior matters: MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., portant transfer point, is a dirty, his seat and almost hit a passen- official concluded, “Only when smelly place! An official con- 62/63, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. ger.” But the PRO of MTC, bus passenger associations and firmed, “Rs.10 crore has been Shanmugam, argued, “You the MTC agree on fares On editorial matters: The Editor, MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o Lokavani allotted for improvement of bus must understand the traffic in planned on the basis of fuel Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 62/63, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. stands and we are in the process the last ten years has increased budgets, can this issue be No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will be of upgradation.” tremendously. Just imagine how solved. Otherwise, reducing the sent from these addresses every couple of days to the persons concerned MTC officials offered infor- frayed the tempers of the driv- availability of cheapest services and you will get an answer from them to your queries reasonably quickly. mation on progress. Two hun- ers and conductors will be hav- might be the easiest available Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ approach, we will be dred comfortable semi-low- ing to face the many commut- option.” And, sadly, it is the av- able to help you faster and disappoint you less. floor buses have already been ers who are always in a rush to erage bus passenger who will be THE EDITOR introduced and another 265 go to work, etc. in the midst of the most affected. will be introduced soon. Ten chaotic traffic. In fact, we have CHENNAI HERITAGE airconditioned Volvo buses regular counselling sessions, Answers to 260-A T.T.K. ROAD, , CHENNAI 600 018. were to go on the roads by end- behavioural programmes etc. at August. 500 old buses were re- / our Anna Nagar Training Cen- Quiz I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) placed last June, another 1000 tre – and for the workers’ fami- I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it will be replaced soon. There are lies, too.” 1. Indonesia; 2. Asafa Powell; hereafter. plans to introduce circular However, a senior bus driver 3. Finland leading to the ‘Helsinki l I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 routes to connect with MRTS told me, “The fact is that almost Agreement’; 4. Joseph Estrada of (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, MADRAS, stations, starting with all the Ordinary services have the Philippines; 5. Steve Fossett; Tiruvanmiyur-Adyar. Peak 6. Luciano Pavarotti; 7. Jeddah; as subscription to Madras Musings for the year 2006-07. been taken off road. The M ser- 8. Ethiopia; 9. Google; 10. hour specials include an extra vices that have been retained l As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment 300 buses, between 8 a.m. and McLaren. charge more anyway and the * * * and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai 8 p.m. There are plans to issue accent is now more on ‘collec- Heritage an additional Rs...... tickets at the bus stand itself, 11. Sivaganga; 12. Kanna- tions’ than on service to the dasan; 13. Subramanya Bharati; (Rupees ...... ) with 40 main counters in the public. The ‘Sokusu Perunthu’ 14. Maniyachi station; 15. 21G, city. Ticketing machines will be Please keep / put me on your mailing list. (Deluxe) is introduced to entice 19G, 70 (Tambaram to Avadi), introduced before the year is those who travel by autos, but and from Chennai Airport to Name : ...... out. Smart Cards too, that com- with the same traffic signals and Broadway; 16. Jana Krishna- Address: ...... muters can swipe and travel the same chaotic traffic, you’ll murthi; 17. The best self-help with ease. Also a tie up with reach your destination only at group in the State, District and ...... banks across the city to issue re- the same time as by the ordinary Panchayat level federations; 18. fills or extend the Smart Cards. Sathya Sai Baba; 19. Dravidar Note: Overseas postage Rs. 550/year extra. Cheques for overseas post- services. Specialised services in Kazhagam; 20. Anna Road HPO, age alone payable to M/s. Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd. All other The introduction of buses a city at this stage cannot serve Chennai GPO, T’ Nagar North, cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. with hydraulic doors in Deluxe the purpose.” and Anna Nagar. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS October 1-15, 2007 A man with a Tamil literary mission

t was afternoon when I got and run this library and main- Nalayira Divya Prapandam, Idown at Vriddhachalam sta- tain its buildings and gardens. Panniruthirumurai, Siddhantha tion to go to Chidambaram. My The library has tens of thou- Sastra, early editions of the escort asked me if I had the sands titles – among them cop- Kambaramayana (more than time to see a unique private li- ies of the entire published ver- ten different editions) and all brary. After having seen the sions of, and on, the Thirukkural the writings of political leaders Roja Muthiah Library, I – about 1500 volumes in all – of all hues with no exception at thought there could not be any- the entire published versions of all, copies of the research ar- The main building of the garden-girt Tamil Nool Kappagam, near thing else like it! Certainly, I The Bible, the various earliest ticles of Maraimalai Adigal, Vriddachalam. hadn’t heard of the library he published versions in Tamil of T.P. Meenakshisundaranar, mentioned. the Ramayana and the N.C. Kandhiah Pillai and many the result of a dedicated and research in all comfort neces- Tucked away from the main Mahabharata and their various others, and biographies of al- long-term effort of a single indi- sary, the library’s location being hustle and bustle of the other- commentaries, and almost all most all major Tamil personali- vidual assisted by a handful of off the beaten track. Neverthe- wise sleepy town of Vriddha- the Tamil classics published. ties. dedicated persons. Its building less, the ‘Women’s Literary chalam in a lovely rural location The entire Sangam literature Another section has copies in half an acre of land on the Meet 2007’ was conducted with greenery all round was a compilations with their various of more than 500 theses, disser- banks of Manimuttar in Thiru here. startlingly different type of commentaries, from the earliest tations, and research papers by Mudhu Kundram (Vriddha- The man responsible for this building whose circular opening times to the present, all the various research scholars of chalam) was constructed at a remarkable venture, Palladam was inviting. Walking through publications of U.V. Swami- almost all the universities in cost of Rs.50,00,000 from pri- Manickam, knows his collec- one of the best maintained gar- natha Ayyar, and Buddhist, South India and more than a vate funds! The design of the fa- tion intimately and is able to den spaces I’ve ever seen, where Christian, Jain and Islamic lit- hundred different Tamil and cade and other areas was cop- immediately locate whatever the design of every bud was erature by different authors and English encyclopaedias and ied from the Nepal King’s pal- you want, in addition to provid- meticulously planned, I was in their commentaries are other lexicons. In fact, the earliest ace and the Annamalai Univer- ing any further information. another world altogether. holdings arranged in the scien- printed edition of a lexicon is sity building and the architect, Palladam Manickam publishes I was met by the man him- tific manner that is a hallmark here. books as well and is the founder self, Palladam Manickam, a of this library. Another section has copies l by of an organisation called lover of Tamil who has made it The collection also includes of modern Tamil literature and ‘Nirangal Enum Kalai’ (the art his mission in life to organise rare and very old copies of the other Tamil contemporary K.R.A. NARASIAH of colours). He had earlier run a works. journal called Valluvam. A number of researchers and What caught my eye was the one Palanivel, has done a splen- authors have donated their way they were all stacked, so as did job. The work was com- work and his “library doors are to make it easy for a researcher pleted in 2000. open for such donors,” says to find what he wanted. There While the ground floor of Manickam. was a lot of room to move the main building has the stacks around and plenty of furniture for the books, it also has a sepa- As I left, the words of to enable comfortable research. rate area for VCDs and DVDs Manickam still rang in my ears. Simple catalogues are avail- of old Tamil films as well as “We have lost many great able and a knowledgeable assis- award-winning classics from dif- Tamil classic literary works, as tant can get you whatever you ferent countries, as also a host they were not protected; that need. of old records and copies in loss is irreparable. I want to en- Many journals from their tapes of classical and film music. sure, at least from now on, we first issue are available for refer- The first floor has a well- don’t lose any more literary cre- ence. National Geographic equipped hall for conducting ations”. magazine’s issues of 55 years are seminars and meetings. What Palladam Manickam can be stacked. caught me unawares was the reached at Tamil Nool Called the Tamil Nool thoughtful inclusion of a few Kappagam, Salem Highway, Kappagam (Tamil Texts Re- rooms provided for researchers Tamil Nagar, Vriddhachalam Palladam Manickam with his books. source Centre), this library is who can stay and carry on their 606 001. Phone 04143-231611.

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