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within the UNESCO grounds by of antiques Tip boarding the free city shuttle, Central and collectibles Free tour for groups Antiques, Area Transit (CAT). The bus passes by was formerly of five persons and Mirror the newly refurbished 195 year-old the home of above with prior arrangements. Email: St George’s Church, South East Asia’s Captain Chung [email protected]. oldest Anglican worship hall; Kapitan Keng Kwee, an Call +604 264 2929 to book. Keling (keling referring to South influential Hakka Indians is now considered an offensive tin-miner. word by some) Mosque, built by After the city tour, take a 10-minute Indian masons in the 19th century. ride in the newly upgraded funicular The restored train from to reach Penang (www.cheongfatttzemansion.com) Hill, 830 metres above sea-level. The now a heritage hotel, is also known railway station is located at the end as Blue Mansion after its blue façade. of Jalan Bukit Bendera in Air Itam. It was formerly home to a Chinese Penang Fast trader dealing in opium, pepper, tea Kapitan Keling and rubber. Daily guided tours at Mosque 11am, 1.30pm or 3pm costs RM12.00 Text by Evonne Lyn Lee. Photos by Evonne Lyn Lee, per person. Kris Foo, 1st Avenue & various attractions After a meticulous restoration, the Forward 19th century Pinang Peranakan Mansion The moment you Penang (www.pinangperanakanmansion.com. The isle of Penang land at Bridge my) has been outfitted with eclectic brings to mind lovely International Airport, elements like English floor tiles and you’ll notice the on- Victorian ironworks. It got an image beaches and wonderful going RM250 million boost as the set for the award-winning street food. But since expansion that will be Little Nyonya TV drama. acquiring UNESCO completed by mid-2012. This repository of over 1,000 pieces ’s national heritage site status in heritage treasures, It operates from Monday to Friday, St George's Church 2008, George Town, , 6.30am to 8pm and until 9pm on its capital city has St. George’s Church weekends and public holidays. The and the Pinang Peranakan Museum Restored heritage sites, fees are: Adults RM30 each; children been gripped with a have been restored. And by end 2013, upgraded attractions below 12 years RM15 each; and RM70 fresh vitality. Keep this the city will have its second Penang With tourism dollars making up 70% for a family of two adults and two bridge. of Penang’s economy, the state children. section if you plan a In the arts scene, events like the government is hard at work tackling Penang’s Butterfly Farm (www. trip soon. July George Town Festival (www. crime, congestion and cleanliness to butterfly-insect.com) georgetownfestival.com) the make Penang a must-visit destination. re-opened last May 2012 World Music Festival (www. Amidst all efforts to beautify the with upgraded features visitpenang.gov.my/portal3) and metropolis, this former British trading – Reptile Zone, Bugs Little Penang Street Market (www. port’s 200-year multi-racial inheritance Horizon, Kingdom of Frogs littlepenang.com.my) held on the is still very much part of George and Aqua Fun Corner, touch-screen last Sunday of each month are Town’s appeal. Many of Penang’s LCD displays and interactive insect- bringing Penangnites together in a colonial era pre-war architectural focused screenings in mini cinemas. spirit of gotong royong (community treasures have been given a face lift. The world’s first tropical butterfly participation). Tour restored heritage sites located sanctuary shelters over 4,000 live

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butterflies from 150 species. Open Japanese inns during the Edo period, from 9am to 6pm daily (last entry at this hostel (www.myryokan.com) 5pm) including public holidays, each caters to flashpackers – those who adult pays RM27, children under 12 travel with their ipod and digital years, RM15 and senior citizens above camera, essentially budget conscious, 58 years pay RM13.50 each. Call +604 looking for comfort in lower-priced 885 1253 to book. lodgings. Rates here start as cheap as RM35 per bed for dorm-style stay- New malls overs. Ryokan’s arrival in the heart of Visitors can go home with more than the city is as if a huge brush dipped in belacan and salted fish. Penang’s fresh paint has swooshed throughout Muntri Mews style-conscious urbanites are flocking Penang’s George Town, says concept to 1st Avenue the city’s newest mall, brainchild, Sarah Adnan. This former Others include Clove Hall’s Anglo- just about everything you need to for casual and branded apparel, residential enclave was once home to Malay bungalow of six suites in a know about Penang – like getting lifestyle and wellness services. Next Penang’s upper crust - wealthy Chinese garden setting (www.clovehall.com); around, where to stay, shop, to Komtar and Prangin Malls, 1st traders and the British colonials. former mansion Chymes (www. sight-see and makan. Information Avenue houses Penang shoe labels Opposite Ryokan @ Penang is another chymeshotel.com) on Tanjong Bungah is copious but that’s because it’s like Opera in stylish mod designs and hotel for flashpackers, the nine-suite sea-front has bed-and-breakfast compiled from interviews and Fipper, all-natural Muntri Mews (www.muntrimews.com) accommodation. China Tiger (http:// periodicals right down to walking rubber flip flops Shopper’s Tip formerly carriage-houses and stables chinatiger.info) belying its name, Get a free 1st Avenue the streets. Its candid insider and sandals. At eco-bag for purchases during the colonial era. offers stylish heritage homestay in perspective and pragmatic Underground, above RM200 in a The arrival of boutique hotels has Little India and there’s the Hotel single receipt. approach like money-saving tips there’s quirky changed Penang’s tourism panorama, Penaga (www.hotelpenaga.com) for the budget traveller, make it a fashion for queensbaymalaysia.com ) is great Ryokan @ Penang sadly forcing out many residents, converted from a clutch of 15 pre-war reliable go-to travel resource. restless youth and those young at for shopping right down to the last particularly families living in the area shophouses. Urgent hotel booking: Get heart. minute as the international airport for generations, who indeed have swift confirmation of your Gurney Drive, where Penang’s best is just 10 minutes away. It houses been part of the neighbourhood’s Travel Notes: Filled with rich nuggets of history, urgent hotel bookings on www. street food used to be found, has over 400 stores carrying local and character, says Penang kia (colloquial www.penang-traveltips.com has urgentroom.com once payment today become a classy commercial international brands and happens to term for Penang local) Timothy Tye. address for high-end condominiums, be one of Asia’s largest family-focused is made. Simply search and the cool G hotel (www.ghotel. lifestyle malls. Street of Penang compare rates for the best com), new restaurants and Gurney accommodation deals to match Plaza (www. Boutique hotels, heritage your budget and itinerary. gurneyplaza. Shopper’s Tip guesthouses What’s useful is the composite com). A Apply for a free In the 80s, five-star hotels like Rasa review of each property based Tourist and Travellers on other travellers’ experiences 15-minute Privilege card at the Sayang and Golden Sands on the Batu cab-ride from customer service Ferringhi promenade were Penang’s on location, facilities, cleanliness counter to enjoy and service. Click onto the map to George Town exclusive shopping pinnacle of luxury accommodation. or 20 minutes privileges and benefits. Fast forward to the 21st century, many check the hotel’s location vis-à-vis Redeem a souvenir the airport, city/town, shopping, from Batu with purchases totaling derelict pre-war shophouses, heritage Feringgi, Gurney RM100 and above. bungalows and stately mansions that dining and attractions. There’re Plaza carries allude to George Town’s historical no distracting advertisements premier lifestyle brands like Coach, grandeur, have morphed into stand- to navigate around when Birkenstock, Dorothy Perkins, Fossil, alone boutique hotels and stunning booking. You can also access the Kiehl’s and CK Jeans. guest houses. search tool using your iphone/ Penang’s largest shopping retail Ryokan @ Penang on Jalan Muntri android browser on www.hotels. space, (www. is one fine example. Modelled after urgentroom.com/mobile.

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Free Tour of UNESCO where to get authentic street Grounds: eats. She recommended Pulau Hop onto the free Central Area Tikus. The name is a misnomer. Transit (CAT) at any of these Neither is (Rat stops: Chowrasta Market, Island) an island nor is it infested Penang Islamic Museum, Khoo with rodents. Actually, it’s Kongsi, Kapitan Keling Mosque, named after a rocky isle north- Little India, Pinang Peranakan east of Penang, shaped like a Musem, War Memorial, Penang mouse! Facing the Pulau Tikus State Museum, St. George’s police station, Kwai Lock café on Church, St. Francis Xavier Solok Moulmein is jam packed Church, Cheong Fatt Tze during breakfast and lunch with Mansion and Weld Quay Jetty. mainly locals tucking into hae It operates between 6am and mee (prawn noodle soup), Ipoh midnight at 15-minute intervals. hor fun and Hokkien char (stir- fried noodles with assorted meat Makan at Pulau Tikus: and seafood). The curry mee Pick up a Food Trail Map at (or ask for bee hoon) in a mild Bayan Lepas airport or any hotel curry-based coconut broth with to track down 27 local street sliced pork and re-constituted specialites from char koay teow, cuttlefish is still served with nasi kandar and pasembur cubed coagulated pig’s blood. (Indian rojak) to assam laksa at 107 locations island-wide! Now that the Gurney Drive hawkers have relocated, I asked Bee Yinn, a Penangnite who runs popular website Rasa Malaysia Bring home: (http://rasamalaysia.com) and Shop at Chowrasta bazaar for also conducts culinary tours, tau sar pheah, nutmeg products, salt fish, Penang belacan, preserved fruit, coffee and other tidbits.

Getting there: Jetstar and Tiger Airways depart from Changi Airport’s budget Just outside the kopi tiam are terminal whereas Air Asia flies more food stalls - Chinese apom from terminal 1. Flight to Penang (pancake with assorted fillings International Airport takes 60 like banana, chocolate, ham or minutes; for the cheapest way to cheese), char koay kak (Penang’s George Town, purchase tickets version of our pan-fried radish at the Bus counter cake) and Nyonya kuih. Meals for just RM2. A taxi voucher start from RM3 for a small costs RM38 inclusive of toll fees portion. for a 30 to 40-minute ride.

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