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52 Texas Aggie | july/august 2008 aggienetwork.com Top: Driving up to the Tuscan town of Castiglion Fiorentino. Bottom: A postcard view from Castiglion Fiorentino. A Postcard from

t the arched entry gate of Porta Fiorentino, the stranger asks a passing resident, “Donde Texas A&M?” in her border-state Spanish. The villager speaks only his native Italian, but knows the answer. He points upward, indicating to the visitors that their destination is further up the hill. Moving up the steep path of autumn- colored stones, their roller suitcases click and clank on the mortar, inter- ruptingA Castiglion Fiorentino residents chatting on the narrow car-less main street. Winding higher on the shrinking corso, from tiny courtyards women hang laundry in the morning sun. The fragrance of clean clothes follows the visitors as they continue to climb. At the very top, they reach a crumbling medieval fortress. Resting, they survey the valleys below. From this same van- tage point, medieval sentries also scanned the horizon looking for rival forces

from , or Pergulia. These nearby Italian city-states regularly

os by Giov by os t Pho invaded the town of Castiglion till an ingenious alliance with , the Renaissance powerhouse, halted the assaults. The addition of Fiorentino to

Castiglion heralded this prestigious protection to the neighbors.

hierri c ru Ba nni a

By Rebecca Noah Poynter ’85

aggienetwork.com july/august 2008 | Texas Aggie 53 Photo by Giovanni Baruchierri

Photo by Giovanni Baruchierri

Allured by the historic view, the two sities, including the University of Kansas, a nearby train station to take weekend have missed their destination. Down- the University of Texas and California trips. With her roadside Mona Lisa half- ward they return to the municipal Polytechnic State University, regularly smile, my childhood friend Laura Lister piazza where locals are enjoying a late send students and faculty. Students live Stonecipher ’85 became our best hitch- morning caffe under the shade of the at the center. Class is Monday through hiker. She was able to secure rides for us loggia still adorned with a Renaissance Thursday; field trips are on Fridays and in passing World War II-era family farm Medici crest. weekends are free for students to travel. vehicles. When the lease at the Pogge “Scusi, dove e` Texas A&M?” she asks Some semesters, there are customized expired in 1989, students rode the cen- a watchful table in passable Italian. The classes. This spring, a group of students ter’s bus to check out three possible new residents smile and gesture in unison to from the College of Education taught locations. They selected Santa Chiara in a nearby vicola, a steep short-cut. “Boun English as a Second Language at the Castiglion Fiorentino, a medieval, walled giornetta,” they say, wishing them a local middle school. Each summer, the Tuscan town perched on a hilltop with a good journey. Memorial Student Center and Honors conveniently located train station. The passage empties at the narrow, Department host selected freshmen, Na- Driving here, I noticed is double doors of the Texas A&M Univer- tional Merit and Hispanic scholars at the more prosperous now as evidenced by sity Santa Chiara Study Center. Although MSC Champe Fitzhugh International newer and more plentiful cars; those tiny the building is unmarked, the towns- Honors Leadership Program. farm carts are gone. There are numer- people know Texas A&M is located in It is the first day of the new semester ous American university study abroad the former convent of the 14th-century at the Santa Chiara Study Center and programs scattered in these hills but few Order of (Chiara is Claire in administrator Sharon Jones greets have their very own town. The Texas Italian). Accompanied by my husband, I us. Sharon is Santa Chiara’s charming A&M study center is located in rural am returning to the program I attended consigliere, the bridge between mod- Castiglion Fiorentino, a place where peo- in 1982. For more than a quarter of a cen- ern American culture and everyday ple live and work, mainly in agriculture. tury, Aggies have studied abroad in Italy. Italian life. As more popular tourist towns, nearby Through this program, resident and This location replaces the isolated Siena, Cortina and Florence garner the visiting Texas A&M professors conduct original called La Poggerina. Because visitors. The Castiglionesi have main- classes in architecture, history, science the train station was several miles away tained their Renaissance reputation and a variety of liberal arts. Other univer- from the “Pogge,” we had to hitchhike to for pride and rispetto, respect. To the

54 Texas Aggie | july/august 2008 aggienetwork.com Photo by Giovanni Baruchierri

From left to right: A scene from the walk to the top of Castiglion Fiorentino; the Santa Chiara Study Center in the medieval hilltop Italian town of Castiglion Fiorentino; art history professor Paolo Barucchieri captivating students during the first outing of the semester; students meeting for class in the private courtyard of the Santa Chiara Study Center.

PHOTO BY RANDAL FORD ’04, USED WITH PERMISSION students living within their walls, they both. For the dolci or sweet, Sicilian portion of an Etruscan city wall (ca. 4th are gracious and polite and expect the oranges and Tuscan pears are brought in century B.C.). The Etruscans were the same in return. “Because of this, Aggies wet glass bowls. original Italians, pre-dating the Romans. have one particular rule, no whooping in Afterward, we join the students out- Then the students examine an Etruscan town,” Sharon says. side the building for the first field trip of temple under the 12th-century church Under barrel-vaulted arches, lunch is the semester. I am delighted to see the fa- of Saint Angelo, now the Municipal Art served family-style on sturdy wooden miliar face of Paolo Baracchieri, the Santa Gallery. There, Paolo explains frescos as tables atop tile floors. A dozen teachers Chiara Study Center Director. Paolo is the TV shows of their time, communicat- and administrators sit at a head table. the same, engaging students with his blue ing the stories of the ancient Christian About a hundred students from A&M eyes and gentle replies. The group heads saints to the people of the Middle Ages.

At the arched entry gate of Porta Fiorentino, the stranger asks a passing resident, “Donde Texas A&M?” in her border-state Spanish. and the other universities are inter- for the town’s hilltop fortress called the He is a gifted storyteller, and throughout spersed, getting to know one another. cassero. As we walk, Paolo ask the stu- the semester he will unstack the layers of The meal is fresh Tuscan produce and dents to guess the age of the town. “Five history, civilization, culture, art, war, ar- pasta from the valleys below prepared hundred years,” says one. “A little older chitecture, trade and religion, then skill- by two local women. Lidia, a classic chef, ey,” Paolo replies, “about twenty five fully reassemble them for the students’ and Giuliana, a home-style cook, are hundred si.” With this, he captures the consumption. the Italian moms of Santa Chiara with students’ attention and he will hold it for In the late afternoon, a weekend travel wooden spoons, smiles and Italian-only the semester. Paolo is an artist, an art his- contingent of students gathers in the greetings for all. Today, the primi course torian and the protector of the A&M Italy main reception room amid hundreds of is Giuliana’s bean soup, the secundi is program. At the cassero he shows the left-behind travel books. Students flip Eggplant Parmesan. The tastes of fresh students what the medieval architecture through pages discussing their upcom- olive oil and vegetables are evident in and Renaissance history have hidden—a ing weekend trips. A Guide to Staying at aggienetwork.com july/august 2008 | Texas Aggie 55 Chefs Giuliana Magi (left) and Lidia Roggi cooking Tuscan-style Monasteries in Italy looks lonely on the for a hundred students. shelf, while Italy for Dummies is passed around. The students discuss destina- tions, companions, accommodations, train schedules, and even what to wear. One Aggie says her short shorts have already made her feel conspicuous, while a young man from Houston in a maroon T-shirt says his ball cap is “too Ameri- can.” I don’t think he has considered the logo on his T-shirt. Yesterday, arriving students over- loaded the wireless network and were asked to take it easy today. I see why: In the windowless study area, several are e-mailing home to confirm their arrival or share impressions. In contrast, as a student, I sat outside in the sun admir- ing the view. My impressions were recorded in longhand on a postcard that would arrive home four weeks later. With time and words restrained, by the time my mom got a mention of our hitchhiking exploits, the summer ses- sion was almost over. The key element, though, does not

Photo by Giovanni Baruchierri differ. That is the experience these students will have with Paolo and the Cooking Tuscan-Style: Melanzane alla Parmigiana other instructors as they guide students (Eggplant Parmesan) on weekly field trips. During the outings, Recipes from Santa 2 medium eggplants they will discuss Bottecelli’s Renaissance Chiara Salt and pepper to taste blockbuster, The Birth of Venus, at the 4 tbsp. olive oil and also oil for frying Uffizi museum; caress the stone supports 2 ½ lbs. ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and of the unfinished cathedral in Siena; walk Giuliana’s Bean Soup chopped the concourse between 4,000 dead at 2 cups of Italian white beans (soak overnight) 2-3 sprigs basil the carefully tended American World 1 cup onions 1-1 ½ cups grated Parmesan cheese War II cemetery outside of Florence. 1 cup celery ½ lb. sliced Mozzarella When they return to the classroom, the 1 cup stewed tomatoes 1 egg beaten students will examine the meanings of Salt and pepper to taste Trim and peel the eggplants thinly and not just cultural but sometimes intense Extra small macaroni pasta (optional) cut lengthwise into thin slices. Sprinkle encounters with Italy. ½ cup olive oil with salt and leave to drain for one hour For many students, it will be the time Saute chopped celery and onions, salt on a plate. Fry eggplant in olive oil until spent in optional individual study with and pepper with olive oil in pot used for golden brown and drain on paper towels. a local artist, a sculptor, a printmaker or soup. Add the tomatoes and let simmer for Put measured olive oil in a deep pan add a painter that will be the most memo- a few minutes. Slowly add 6 cups of water. tomatoes and basil, cooking until tomatoes rable. For others, it is slipping outside the Allow to simmer until the beans are are soft and thick. walls of Castiglion Fiorentino, jogging cooked. Add water if necessary. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange a past centuries-old churches, golden Prior to serving, add cooked pasta. layer of eggplant slices in a wide basking sunflowers and dusky olive trees. In the Remove approximately 1 cup of cooked dish, sprinkle with half of the Parmesan architecture studio, it is the discussions beans and puree. Add pureed beans back cheese and cover with half of the Mozzarella not only of Renaissance architecture but to soup, mix well and serve. cheese; spread a thin layer of tomato sauce what future civilization will look like and pour some of the beaten egg on top. that students will recall. Able to explore Continue layering until all the so many layers, students discover a place ingredients are used up. Bake at 375 not available in guidebooks or textbook. degrees for about 40 minutes. That evening after dinner, we all

56 Texas Aggie | july/august 2008 aggienetwork.com gather for a welcome concert by a local First Italian Study contributed to their successful band in the center’s private courtyard. professional careers. Their goal For the students, it is the first of many Abroad Group Reunites will be to endow a scholarship for evenings that will float by in ancient Study Abroad to encourage future Mediterranean time, without television Nearly 3,500 Texas A&M generations of Aggies to share this or phone calls. When the music finishes students have shared the Texas global experience. at 11 p.m., some students stay in the A&M Italy experience in the 25 Former students who want to courtyard talking. Others slip off to the years since it began, but it all learn more about what is happening Velvet Underground, a local nightclub, started in 1982-83, when Dr. Elton since the program moved in 1989 to stopping first at CoCo Palm to taste their Abbot, Dr. Ed Haog and Professor Castiglion Fiorentino can reconnect first hazelnut gelato. Paolo Barucchieri brought the first through the Santa Chiara website at In the morning, from across the Aggies to Italy in an architecture http://studyabroad.tamu.edu/santa_ piazza, the church bells toll at 7:30 a.m. program housed at La Poggerina, in chiara/. to remind to the residents of Castiglion the Valdarno, near Florence. Or, if you’d like to help current Fiorentino that Mass starts in a half In April of 2008, 12 of the 40 students who dream of living and hour. We join the sleepy-eyed students former students from that firstI taly studying in Italy, and simultaneously in the snack bar for cappuccinos as they study abroad program gathered in have a chance to own one of Paolo’s check computer-printed train depar- College Station for their 25th reunion. drawings or more recipes from the ture times for their weekend trips. Pictured below in front of the Santa Chiara kitchens, go to http:// Sharon says she wants to show me Langford Architecture Building on internationalmarket.tamu.edu. A something before we go. I follow her to a campus are (left to right) Professor campaign in support of international locked door of an adjoined building, the George Mann, Carl Schoenfeld ’83, experiences is in the silent phase; church of Santa Chiara. Inside there are Oscar Sugranes ’83, Arnoldo a considerable goal has been candlesticks, framed paintings, kneel- Robelo ’83, Dr. Elton Abbott ’83, established and help from former ers all barely visible by the soft sunlight John Allen ’83, David Baker ’83, Lex students will be needed. though the open door. Above the door Pegues ’83, Craig Garcia ’83, Rhonda Also online is a photo journal created is a balcony used by the nuns housed at Romeo Jones ’83, Mark Wamble ’83, by Randal Ford ’04, who studied at Santa Chiara to attend Mass in semi-pri- Paul Mueller ’83, David Bogle ’83 Santa Chiara and visited a number of vacy from the townspeople. The former and Carlos Vega ’84. Italian cities in 2003. To access the 16th-century Roman Catholic church This group’s consensus was that journal, go to the Santa Chiara site now belongs to the city of Castiglion their experience in Italy was pivotal listed above, choose student feedback Fiorentino. Plans are to renovate it as a in building their characters and and then photo gallery. library for the study center. Last semes- self-esteem and has universally ter the students of Santa Chiara donated money toward needed struc- tural work in the chapel. Every student contributed, grateful to have been residents of Cas- tiglion Fiorentino. Outside, I see the Ag- gie from Houston. He has ditched the ball cap and T-shirt and somehow ac- quired new oversized Italian sunglasses to shield the ever- present sun. By the title of the guidebook in his hand, he is on the way to Rome. “So what do you think?” I ask him. “I think it will change my life,” he answers. “Buon giornetta,” I say.

Rebecca Noah Poynter ’85 is a writer and returns often to Italy. aggienetwork.com july/august 2008 | Texas Aggie 57