Madrid 5 E Essays—

12 essays — Texts and the city

1 7 Talking shop Facing Franco Boutique boom Putting history to bed by Nelly Gocheva, by Pablo León, Monocle writer

2 8 Ripe for a refill Winning isn’t everything Vermouth’s revival Olympic optimism by Paula Móvil, by Luis Mendoza, food journalist Monocle

3 9 Acquired tastes Nocturnal adventures Madrid’s must-tries Madrid’s nightlife by María Arranz, by Rodrigo Taramona, editor blogger

4 10 City of two halves Alfresco alliances Real vs Atlético Outside space by Ben Olsen, by Marcus Hurst, writer editor

5 11 My essay is about Reel Madrid Dawn till dusk ‘carajillo’ (hic) The city on screen The city’s bar scene by David Bernal, by Pablo Bautista, film critic engineer

6 12 Modern makeover Cultural pursuit Reshaping the city The Prado by Liam Aldous, by Andrew Tuck, Monocle Monocle

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sprinkled across the Madrid centro. At Entering this charmingly cluttered essay 01 the other end of the spectrum is Spanish Three shops to espadrilles haven is like stepping back into luxury brand Loewe (see page 52) with its check out the past; the venture opened its doors Talking shop — in 1863 and not much seems to have flagship shop in the heart of Madrid on 01 Galería Loewe Boutique boom Gran Vía, which includes an opulent Browse Loewe’s high-quality changed since. What started as a shop — fashion-meets-art Galería exhibition leather goods. selling simple sandals for workers now space. However, global fast-fashion chains 02 Glent handcrafts and sells espadrilles of various Head here for bespoke Spain’s retail scene is and high-end brands aside, what surprises styles and colours, attracting everyone men’s shoes. from Spanish abuelas waiting to replace blossoming again after a returning visitor such as myself is the 03 Andrés Gallardo deepening diversification of local retail, A mecca for quirky their decades-favourite models to overly the financial crisis. much of which proudly waves the “Made porcelain jewellery. excited Harajuku girls anxious to get hold Madrid, home to both in Spain” flag: evidence of the welcome of a precious pair. fresh independent brands return of entrepreneurial spirit to post- If you visit you’ll get to know the dark crisis Madrid. of classy old-school Spanish jewellery. In wooden façade very well as no doubt and long-established Independent brands such as Masscob other words, expect a significant number you’ll be confronted by a tedious queue – names doing the right and Steve Mono have been impressing of flowers, birds and tree branches in but be patient as it’s well worth the wait. things well, is particularly loyal customers with their much-treasured block colours. The average price is €25 per pair and lines of women’s clothing and leather bags Alongside Gallardo is Helena Rohner, Antigua Casa Crespo also happens to be fertile ground. respectively for successive seasons. But an who sells her exclusive tableware and the only store in Madrid with its own increasing clutch of younger designers are porcelain jewellery out of a snug factory. As the latest member of the making a name for themselves in the showroom (see page 52) on the cobbled founding family to take the reins, Maxi by Nelly Gocheva, capital and beyond. Among them is Calle del Almendro. Rohner’s whimsical Garbayo never misses an opportunity to Monocle Andrés Gallardo with an atelier-cum-shop tea sets for Georg Jensen have been talk about his production house’s humble (see page 64) in multicultural Tirso de gracing kitchen tables across Europe since location in the village of Cervera del Río Molina, a short walk from the city’s the 1990s, when the Barcelona-born Alhama. Just remember not to touch the epicentre: Puerta del Sol. Gallardo, whose designer first collaborated with the Danish display merchandise if you want to stay handcrafted porcelain pendants are now silversmith. Since then she’s gained plenty on his good side. sold at Paul Smith in London, joins a of devoted followers with an appreciation The strategy of keeping retail small stable of designers who have been for small-run handmade products. and in the family seems to be paying off regenerating Spain’s porcelain industry, Rubbing shoulders with Gallardo and for the likes of Garbayo, Rohner, Ruiz adding a contemporary twist to a Rohner is young Álvaro Ruiz of Guantes and Gallardo – and soon it might be centuries-old Luque (see page 61), a glove shop and catching on elsewhere in Spain. The latest economic figures show a continuous While scouting the cobbled streets of tradition. “Global fast- manufacturer that has been in business rise in retail sales, helping the domestic Madrid and hunting for hidden gems for The figurines fashion chains since 1896. Beyond the cute canine logo economy to grow at one of the fastest this guide, one thing hit me bright and from cherished and high-end embellished above the entrance, Ruiz – rates in the EU. clear: retail – from the biggest players to Spanish ceramics the fourth generation of this family brands aside, So it seems like good news for the independent small-scale ventures – is alive brands Lladró and business – purveys hand-cut and hand- what surprises Spanish economy, as well as small and kicking in this city. Whether it’s the Sargadelos can be stitched gloves that garner the attention family-run shops in the city and ultimately well-off Salamanca neighbourhood or the found in homes a returning of Spanish socialites and European royals, us – the shoppers. Make sure you leave characterful backstreets of Las Letras, the across Spain but visitor such as well as playing a star role in Disney’s some room in your suitcase on your way capital is a labyrinth of shops with more Gallardo has as myself is latest version of Cinderella. The tiny atelier here – and pack some comfortable and more smaller retailers supporting a captured the has managed to stay afloat despite the the deepening walking shoes. — (m) new wave of Spanish craftsmanship and imagination of a country’s recent economic turmoil by only younger audience diversification a focus on local design. of local retail, producing small batches of the intricate In its abundancy, Zara is to Spain by rethinking designs – and, to ensure steady sales, i what Starbucks is to the US. This is classic motifs much of which never dropping the ball on quality. about the writer: Gocheva is the founding editor of nowhere more evident than in the nation’s and creating proudly waves Speaking of longlasting traditional The Monocle Travel Guide Series. Having been with capital: outlets by the Galicia-based elaborate the ‘Made in businesses, here comes Antigua Casa monocle since 2009, she also set up the Toronto modern designs, bureau and has done her fair share of travels around retailer and its sister companies Massimo Spain’ flag” Crespo (see page 61) on the unassuming the world. The best part of her job? Scouting her Dutti and Bershka are generously reminiscent Calle del Divino Pastor in Malasaña. favourite cities for top retail, obviously.

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hangovers, or maybe it’s a natural pits, napkins and prawn heads on essay 02 offshoot of Spain’s gastronomical Vermut hotspots the ground as you slurp down — Ripe for a refill boom and the insatiable search to 01 El Boquerón, Lavapiés some juicy oysters with one hand reinvent old trends. What is clear Rowdy hangout for locals. and sip on the perfect glass of Vermouth’s revival 02 Bodegas Casas, Atocha is that the newfound embrace of This ‘taberna’ serves ‘vermut’ vermut with the other. A short walk — this elixir is in full swing. If chefs with a splash of ‘sifón’. from Atocha’s railway station, For a long time in 03 Casa Camacho, are the new rock stars, vermouth Malasaña Bodegas Casas (Avenida de la Madrid, ‘vermut’ would is the new hit song. Well-versed drinkers and Ciudad de Barcelona 23) is another be ordered solely by The first thing you’ll need to young enthusiasts. venue that serves the drink to elderly gents propping up know before you order your own perfection with a splash of sifón the bar and reliving their vermut is how to pronounce it. (soda water) – but only if you A true Madrileño drops the “t”, bars that have been serving it on manage to successfully fight your youths. But the fortified affectionately referring to their tap for generations. For a while way through the army of patrons wine has made a welcome favourite drink as vermú. This though it was an endangered crowding the steel-surfaced bar. return – and it’s much fortified wine is flavoured with species, following decades of Many of the older gentlemen classier than sangría. up to 80 macerated botanicals creeping domination from big- at bars such as these can testify to and is actually one of the most name beer and wine. You may also the charming allure of vermú in by Paula Móvil, castizo (a term for anything that is be wondering where sangria fits their younger years. In the past, if authentically Spanish) concoctions into this distilled equation. While you wanted to get near a young food journalist in the capital. However, the roots we love to indulge in a pitcher of woman on a Sunday after church, of this medicinal wine can be the latter while holidaying down inviting her to drink a glass of tracked all the way back to India in by the beach or rampaging at a vermut was the way to do it. Today, 1500bc and traces of it were even fiesta at home, the truth is that as these same men stand at the bar found inside a Chinese mummy Spaniards don’t drink this fruity reminiscing about their former from 1200bc. mixture as much as the foreign womanising ways, they are joined Fast forward a few millennia to stereotype would have you believe. by a younger generation who are 1786 and an Italian named Antonio If you’re looking to avoid raising watering down vermut’s reputation If you’ve just touched down in Benedetto Carpano was so inspired eyebrows as another misled guiri as an old man’s drink. A perfect Madrid you might not yet realise by a bitter botanical called wermut (foreigner), approach the bar with place to witness this is Casa it but vermouth is in the midst of (German for wormwood) that he confidence, look the bartender in Camacho (Calle de San Andrés 4), a comeback. For years it was seen created his own label: Carpano the eye and order a vermú. which is located right in the as the exclusive drink of the bevy of Antica Formula. This went on to Almost every 100-year-old middle of the buzzing Malasaña elderly Spanish men hanging about inspire other concoctions around taberna in the city serves vermut de neighbourhood the old-style bars dotted across the Europe and in Spain the tradition grifo (vermouth on tap) and a sign “Approach (see page 128) city. However, a new generation took hold in Reus in Catalonia with on the façade is usually a surefire the bar with and opened in of young Madrileños has started wineries such as Miró, De Muller, sign of whether a bar is worth your confidence, 1928. Dusty switching their cubatas (tall spirit- Rofes and Yzaguirre. This Spanish valuable drinking time. One such look the bottles line the based drinks) for a glass of richly offshoot was flavoured with bar is El Boquerón (Calle Valencia shelves on the flavouredvermut . Perhaps it was cinnamon instead of the vanilla 14), a bastion of tradition within bartender back wall and borne of the need for a lighter favoured by the Italians. the multicultural Lavapiés district in the eye the traditional drink as they sat on sun-drenched The main champions of (see page 130). You’ll only fit in here and order raciones of food terraces nursing their Sunday vermouth are the popular traditional if you’re partial to throwing olive a ‘vermú’” filter out of a

072 073 Madrid Madrid 5 E Essays— —Essays E questionably grimy kitchen. Yet El Rastro flea market. But traditional “If you’re feeling Still feeling bold? the bar is always packed due to the essay 03 tabernas are now wedged between diverse even more Indulge in some gastronomic proposals such as the Russian succulent criadillas quality of their vermú. For an extra Acquired tastes specialities of El Cosaco, the Italian and ravenous (and (testicles), a star kick ask for the yayo: a dangerous Madrid’s must-tries Argentinian recipes of Camoatí and the adventurous) item on the menu mix of gin, vermouth and soda. renowned fusion cuisine of LaCcava, try ‘callos’ of the Chamberí The ideal time to knock back — with a menu that mixes French, Mexican, (tripe stew) district’s Casa this drink is la hora del aperitivo or Although the Spanish Arabic and American flavours. and ‘casquería’ Ricardo. Other capital is overflowing However, while it’s perfectly restaurants, such “the time of the aperitif”, which is understandable that you would want to (offal), the most as the Arganzuela assigned to the late evening, usually with global flavours, its take your palate on a whirlwind world tour, authentic of district’s Freiduría just before one of the city’s local signature dishes – if you’re in Madrid (and you have a strong Madrid meals” de Gallinejas, fry infamously late dinners. Without from intestines to testicles stomach) you ought to try some of the up servings of running the risk of derailing your more extreme and greasy specialities that gallinejas, entresijos and zarajos (chicken appetite, you may want to order the – are required eating if are unique to the city itself. The flagship or lamb intestines). you want to experience dish is the cocido Madrileño: a hearty stew For those with a sweet tooth, Madrid perfect edible accompaniment: a made from chickpeas, vegetables and a also has a longstanding tradition of skewered tapa or gilda made of the culinary scene in wide assortment of meats, whose recipe deliciously greasy sweets. Churros and olives, peppers or anchovies. all its glory. goes back to mediaeval times. Originally a porras reign from breakfast through to Remember the movie Gilda? Well humble dish, its popular reputation saw it the wee hours, when they are devoured actress Rita Hayworth was travel up the social hierarchy to the tables by those stumbling home after a big night. by María Arranz, of kings. Ask anyone where to find the best The crunchy batter and dipping chocolate considered to be “spicy and hot” editor cocido and they will probably point you in are also popular during the folkloric just like the piparra (green pepper) the direction of their mother’s house. But festivals that pop up in various on this skewer. there are a number of restaurants known neighbourhoods during the warmer The spirited comeback for this speciality, such as Lhardy, La Bola months. But legendary institution of vermouth, fuelled by a new Madrid has a reputation for welcoming and the classic among classics, Malacatín. Chocolatería San Ginés, just a few paces people from all over the country and being If you’re feeling even more ravenous (and from Plaza Mayor, makes them all year enthusiastic generation, has a good host. In fact, a huge chunk of adventurous) try callos (tripe stew) and round. Torrijas, an unlikely dessert made certainly given this liquid a new Spain’s rural population migrated from the casquería (offal), the most authentic of from slices of bread soaked in milk or lease of life in Madrid. Sure, countryside to the capital in the mid-20th Madrid meals. Thanks to the skills of the wine and then fried, is most popular the city is ripe with the newest century in search of greener urban pastures. city’s chefs, people are usually surprised at during Easter. gastronomic trends and home to This has underwritten the city’s love of just how delicious these dishes are in If you’re still feeling tentative about more humble delicacies but may also traditional tabernas like Maldonado 14, sinking your teeth into these treasures, a multitude of Michelin-starred explain why residents are so willing to try Bodegas Ricla and San Mamés. include a trip to the corner bar first. One restaurants but before you tantalise new flavours. of the city’s skilled caña-pouring bartenders your palate with these modern It explains how in a neighbourhood such will be at the ready to serve you a welcome morsels, take a moment to embrace as Lavapiés you can still see manolo bars dose of liquid courage. — (m) the sacred ritual of the aperitivo. (traditional working-class drinking spots) Raise your glass to the resilience of alongside restaurants fragranced by the Food heroes exotic aromas of curried vegetables — this traditional tipple as you toast: prepared by a new wave of south Asian 01 Malacatín Serves a revered version of “Viva el vermú!” — (m) immigrants. The cramped streets are hearty stew ‘cocido Madrileño’. home to more than 80 nationalities and 02 Bodegas Ricla i restaurants offer tastes from Africa This ‘taberna’ has mastered the i (Baobab, La Teranga), the UK (Los most authentic of Madrid meals. about the writer: Móvil is a food journalist from 03 Chocolatería San Ginés about the writer: The editor of magazines Madriz Guatemala who moved to the Spanish capital in Chuchis) and Mexico (Antigua Taquería). An institution that will suitably and Fuet, Arranz specialises in gastronomy and food 2003. Together with her partner Roberto Castán, she At weekends the calles of La Latina are satiate any sweet tooth. culture. She has left the city in search of greener converted her obsession for vermut into La Vermutería a popular stomping ground for Madrileños pastures on numerous occasions – admitting to a Pop-up, a mobile bar that springs up at some of the love-hate relationship with her home city – but she city’s (and country’s) most popular events. as they peruse the stalls of the famous always comes back.

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Madrid’s footballing heritage is “The two wealthy thin fans who stand by Atlético – essay 04 legendary. In the form of Real clubs embody northern district season-ticket sales famously went City of two halves Madrid, the capital can lay claim Madrid’s of Chamartín, up when the team were relegated to Real vs Atlético to Europe’s most successful club – near the major the second tier – and Real Madrid’s having won more trophies than turbulent banks and glitzy hobbyist fans who’ll only sing when — any other team on the continent – modern commerce of they’re winning. Yet ask a Real fan Think of football in the and the world’s richest, topping history the Paseo de la and they’ll likely laugh this off, point Spanish capital and the Deloitte’s World’s Richest Club list and socio- Castellana. towards the club’s monumental first club to spring to mind for 10 years running. The club’s economic Atlético ply success and possibly bring up the will be Europe’s most champagne moments have been and political their trade at old “Patético Atlético” insult. Playing successful: Real Madrid. delivered by a generation-spanning the more on the rojiblancos lack of success, a who’s who of sporting greats, divisions” modest Vicente famous advertisement from 2006 However, that would be including Zinedine Zidane, David Calderón once saw a young boy ask his father to forget Atlético: rivals Beckham and Cristiano Ronaldo. stadium, which is set between a why they support Atlético; his father and a key part of the city’s Propped up by a sophisticated brewery and the choked m30 struggles to find a response. sporting culture. global marketing wing, the club’s motorway by the Manzanares For all their differences, Real and presence plays a major role in River in the unfashionable south. Atlético are key parts of the city’s by Ben Olsen, drawing tourists to the city. Yet as Historically one of Madrid’s beating heart. Keeping an industry fans of the city’s second-largest club poorer neighbourhoods, of cleaners in jobs sweeping up the writer Atlético Madrid point out, despite a Arganzuela’s working-class discarded husks of pipas – the salted relative lack of success there is more population has traditionally shaped sunflower seeds eaten in bulk in to the story than Los Blancos. the rojiblanco fanbase that has lived both stadiums – the sport is part of When getting to grips with a new The two clubs embody Madrid’s in the shadows of their illustrious Madrileños’ shared identity. A hotly city, exploring its geography, turbulent modern history and the rivals for years. Ever since General contested annual event sees runners language, history and current socio-economic and political Franco piggybacked Real Madrid’s of both stripes race between the affairs can add a valuable sense of divisions between its people. Both dominance in the European game Bernabéu and Calderón stadiums. context. Yet in Madrid, football teams, founded within a year of during the 1950s for political Matchdays transform the city into paints an equally valid picture. Here each other at the turn of the 20th capital, the club’s association with colourful pageants, fans toting the beautiful game left bullfighting century, occupy opposite sides of the regime and the nation’s upper bocadillos de jamón and Mahou way back in the Ernest Hemingway the city. Real Madrid’s Santiago echelons has burned bright. Atlético beer as they flock from Nuevos era as Spain’s number-one sport; it Bernabéu stadium is in the leafy, was seen at the time as an outlet for Ministerios Metro in the north and has the power to bring the city to a the rebellion: the people versus the Pirámides in the south towards their standstill and turn traditionally power; Robin Hood versus the rich. respective grounds. back-page headlines into front-page Ways to stay fit — Although such lines have since Plaza de Cibeles has been news. The colours of its two largest 01 Cycling blurred in the bodegas around the adopted by Real Madrid’s fans as clubs – the white of Real Madrid Explore the city on two wheels and complete the Madrid Río capital, badinage between both a site of celebration, trophy wins and striped red and white, or cycling lap. clubs’ fans treads similar lines. The seeing tens of thousands descend rojiblanco, of Atlético Madrid – are 02 Swimming Try Piscina Municipal El Lago. phrase Atléti hasta la muerte, Real on the square and the team’s flag emblematic of the city. The clubs’ 03 Running lounge hasta la próxima derrota (Atléti till I draped over the statue. When contrasting histories and fortunes We’ve mapped out routes that weave past the sights (see die, Real until the next defeat) Atlético triumph it’s the nearby play a large part in defining those page 126). reflects the perceived difference Neptune Fountain that gushes red who live here. between those through-thick-and- and white. Yet, as the club’s fans are

076 077 Madrid Madrid 5 E Essays— —Essays E more than aware, these occasions I Done to Deserve This? (1984) was set in metalhead hanging “Film-makers are far rarer. essay 05 one of the working-class colmena residences, from the of the 1990s no while comedy Women on the Verge of a Schweppes sign It’s when the two teams meet Reel Madrid Nervous Breakdown (1988) was shot in crowning the longer saw the head to head in El Derbi Madrileño The city on screen a penthouse. Both films star Carmen Gran Vía skyline. city as a capital that visitors witness the sport’s full Maura but while the first is a neorealist Two years dominated by effect on the city. The world’s — depiction of the city, the second opts later Alejandro a dictator; highest-profile club competition – Pedro Almodóvar, Spain’s for modern imagery. So which is more Amenábar, Spain’s instead they most famous director, accurate? Well, both. Madrid is a city of highest-grossing the European Champions League contrasts where everyone mixes together. director, emptied painted a – saw the teams meet in the 2014 brought the capital to At a party you may rub shoulders with a the city’s busiest cosmopolitan final and although the game was the film world’s attention duchess and a drag queen. This is its charm. boulevard to film metropolis” played in Lisbon, the build-up in by making it the star of The filmography ofel Manchego, as a sequence in his Madrid was deafening. Allegiances Almodóvar is known, serves as a guide to thriller Open Your Eyes (1997). Tom Cruise were displayed across the city and numerous outings. Since some of the city’s most beautiful corners. tried to emulate the scene in Times Square then it has played host Characters from The Flower of My Secret but his 2001 remake Vanilla Sky lacked one giant replica shirts draped in Puerta (1996) dance under the stars in a deserted key element: Madrid. del Sol. Despite taking the lead in to everyone from Jason Plaza Mayor. The nurse in Talk to Her Despite the city’s modernity, a pure the first half, Atlético conceded an Bourne to the Antichrist. (2002) watches silent films in the Cine Madrid still exists. This Madrid castizo is equaliser after 93 minutes before Doré on Calle de Santa Isabel 3, a cinema caricatured in the Torrente saga, whose five Real won the game 4-1 in extra that houses the Spanish film archive. instalments star comedian Santiago Segura by David Bernal, Almodóvar isn’t the only one to use as the antihero: a scumbag cop and Atlético time, securing la décima: a record- film critic Madrid as a film set. Film-makers of the fan who struts the ungentrified streets and breaking 10th Champions League 1990s no longer saw the city as a capital frequents bars with floors covered in prawn victory. Half of the city rejoiced with dominated by a dictator; instead they tails. American and French producers a two-day party soundtracked by a painted a cosmopolitan metropolis. These bought the rights for a remake but such cacophony of car horns. Real ruled In one of Pedro Almodóvar’s first films, new films broke with tradition and characters are usually lost in translation. Labyrinth of Passion (1982), the son of an embraced Hollywood genres. Obviously Madrid hasn’t gone the capital once more – though emperor travels to Madrid and declares In The Day of the Beast, (1995), unnoticed in Hollywood. The Bourne Atlético fans had the solace of it “the most fun city in the world”. He director Álex de la Iglesia set the arrival of Ultimatum (2007), for example, includes first place in that season’s domestic wasn’t wrong. At the time the city was the Antichrist atop the Torres Kio, a pair scenes in Atocha’s railway station and league, having finished three points experiencing an explosion of creativity in of skyscrapers in the financial district. The alongside the iconic Viaducto de la Calle ahead of their city rivals. the post-Franco era, known as La Movida premise had some justification: Madrid is Bailén. But the film-maker who perhaps Madrileña. The countercultural movement one of the only cities with a monument to best took Madrid’s pulse was Jim Jarmusch. So 2014 was just another chapter was a catharsis that marked the transition Lucifer, standing tall in Retiro Park. Iglesia’s The Limits of Control (2009) shows the in the city’s sporting drama. In from old Madrid to the Madrid of today. picture includes one of the most iconic space-age architecture of the Torres victory and defeat, it’s the perennial But many of the older rituals in the film images in Spanish film: a priest and a Blancas residence near Avenida de hopes, near misses and euphoric have not been lost: waking early on a América and actress Tilda Swinton meeting Sunday for El Rastro (a flea market in assassin Isaach De Bankolé in Plaza de San triumphs that embellish the cultural Ildefonso, Malasaña. As it happens, this dividing line that defines Madrid’s the old La Latina quarter that dates back Madrid’s movies to 1740) then snacking on a calamari — bohemian neighbourhood is the perfect passionate people. — (m) sandwich at one of the tabernas. 01 Almodóvar’s oeuvre place to drink cañas and gather evidence The city is the backdrop for for Madrid, quite possibly, being the most Almodóvar is the director who has best most of his pictures. portrayed Madrid’s soul on film and his 02 The Day of the Beast fun city in the world. — (m) work cannot be understood without taking Taking its premise from the i into account the city’s influence. In his films notorious monument of Lucifer. i 03 Open Your Eyes about the writer: Previously monocle’s senior sub Madrid is always a main character, sharing Madrid’s busiest boulevard about the writer: Madrid-born film-buff Bernal has editor, Olsen is now a freelance writer. This naturally the big screen with the likes of Penélope was emptied for this film. shared his film knowledge inCinemanía , Rolling Stone gives him more flexibility when it comes to attending Cruz, Antonio Banderas, Carmen Maura and El País and reviewed films on radio station important football games, be they in Spain or his Cadena SER and cable TV station Canal+. His homeland of England. and Victoria Abril. The drama What Have favourite Madrid film isThe Day of the Beast.

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shake and even though Madrid has “Proud editorially and reborn, many of the vestiges of essay 06 undergone a modern makeover, business themed gift- a different era still litter the streets. Modern makeover much of the country still regards the shop; while a A whistle worthy of the Pied Piper capital with dandruff-laden disdain. owners and hollowed-out heralds the arrival of a gypsy Reshaping the city grateful — But if you’re travelling to Madrid cinema has knife-sharpener who regularly (or are already here) pay no residents are been remade wheels his cart around the city in Charming relics still attention to the naysayers. Today spearheading into multi-level the evenings. Serenos – a dying remain here and there on it is barely recognisable from the a more fitness centre breed of night watchmen – still Madrid’s streets but an stuffy city of old. The most visible Gymage (see patrol certain streets in Chamberí; tokens of change have been the sustainable page 122). As a dogged museum continues to energetic new generation city facelift” is taking the lead on big-ticket infrastructure projects privately attract fans of tauromaquía in the such as Madrid Río (see page 111) financed Las Ventas bullfighting ring; and urban renewal. This and the relocation of city hall to the dreams have become a reality, legions of pilgrims do some serious heady mix of old and new Palacio de Cibeles. However, a proud business owners and grateful heavy-lifting as they prepare for makes for an all-singing – protracted economic crisis and residents are spearheading a more Semana Santa (Holy Week). This and all-inclusive – city. political malaise have seen other sustainable city facelift. daily juxtaposition between old massive projects grind to a halt, Nowhere is this metamorphosis and new further stirs up the city’s by Liam Aldous, prompting residents to step into more evident than in the rebadged chaotic feel but it also grounds the roles as reformers and spur change Ballesta Triangle. Tucked away capital in authenticity. Monocle on a smaller scale. behind Gran Vía, these streets fell As a new generation of spirited The explosion of entrepreneurial into disrepair following Spain’s citizenry begins to eclipse the old energy continues to reverberate economic crisis in the 1990s, guard, the city’s resilient character Shaped by centuries of conservative across each boisterous barrio and becoming sullied by crime, drugs has also given rise to some bizarre royal rule and a stifling 40-year down nearly every colourful calle. In and debauchery. In 2007 a private quirks. For example, the Church of fascist dictatorship, Madrid is Las Salesas an old bread factory has investment group purchased the San Antón in the Chueca district, derided by most Spaniards as an been converted into organic food dozens of brothels smothering the best known for its annual blessing of old-fashioned cloister for the market and restaurant El Huerto streets, renovating each premise animals, recently went hi-tech: it country’s political and economic de Lucas (see page 46); a former and intentionally lowering rents to installed television screens with a live elite. It’s too casposo they say, newspaper’s HQ is now El attract creatively inclined tenants. feed to the Vatican, free wi-fi, screwing up their faces as if being Imparcial (Calle Duque de Alba 4), In the years since, the turnaround smartphone-charging points and a forced to chew on some bitter jamón. a smart restaurant with an has seen independent retailers such confessional iPad app, available 24/7. For those of you who are as Kikekeller (Calle Corredera Baja In addition, those looking to unfamiliar with the joys of Spanish Top de San Pablo 17) move in to sell satisfy their sweet tooth can visit jargon, the literal translation of three revivals — a range of metallic furniture (and young entrepreneur Isabel Ottino, casposo is “dandruffy”. The term is 01 Matadero Madrid transform its space into a bar at who has opened small repository usually applied to disparage “old This cultural precinct is not to be missed (see page 98). night), while a former butcher has El Jardín del Convento (Calle del Spain” and conjures up the image 02 San Antón Church become the Microteatro (Calle de Cordón 1) near Plaza Mayor, of an elderly señor with a stiff upper The pews have been given a hi-tech upgrade. Loreto Prado y Enrique Chicote 9): which sells traditional cakes and lip, his hair slicked back with 03 El Huerto de Lucas a miniature theatre complex for confectionery from convents Brylcreem and shoulders speckled An organic food market that you could potentially acting, writing and directing talent. around the country. Over in with flakes of dandruff. Deeply spend all day in. Yet as moribund spaces have Malasaña, a traditional delicatessen ingrained perceptions are hard to been snapped up, stripped back has even installed a street-side

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vending machine that dispenses Spanish capital completely. You can still Three neatly packaged jamón ibérico, essay 07 walk the Calle de los Caídos de la División buildings from Azul, a street that is dedicated to the Franco’s era manchego cheese and tortilla. Facing Franco Fallen of the Blue Division, a detachment — But the city’s rebirth is not 01 Edificio España Putting history to bed sent by Franco to help the Nazis during This neo-baroque building is merely cosmetic. Madrid is more the Second World War. In the city’s north an imposing landmark. tolerant and liberal than ever; — you can also visit Nuevos Ministerios, 02 Torre de Madrid waves of immigrants have added Four decades after a gargantuan ministerial building that Get a great view of the city. resembles an edifice from Hitler’s Berlin. 03 Nuevos Ministerios progressive flavour to its menus and the death of Francisco Sprawling cement ministry “Let’s go walk in the city centre; we’ll in the financial district. culture. The city’s gay pride festival Franco, the legacy of get off at the Gran Vía Metro stop and we draws about two million people Spain’s dictator can still be can walk from there,” I say to my 82- year-old grandmother. “That was José onto the streets in a celebration of 1948. The design was intended to follow felt in Madrid’s streets and Antonio’s stop,” she replies automatically. diversity and, in 2015, new 71-year- that of the Chicago School: to build a She is one of the last of her generation buildings. Plans are afoot towering skyscraper and attract the world’s old mayor Manuela Carmena stood to remember Madrid’s turbulent history to change that – but still attention. It was inaugurated on 4 October before crowds to proclaim the first-hand. She goes on to tell me how 1953 and lauded by the press. “Our city’s “importance of sexuality and no one can decide what to Gran Vía, Madrid’s iconic main street, standing as one of the great European was officially inaugurated by King Alfonso sensuality in the quest for individual do with his mausoleum. capitals is elevated by the luxurious Plaza XIII on 4 April 1910. But Franco later and social happiness”. The contrast Hotel in the superb Edificio España, the changed its name to honour José Antonio pride and joy of this new and grand with leaders of old was astonishing, Primo de Rivera, the commander behind by Pablo León, Madrid,” said the ABC paper, as it sang the applause deafening. one of Spain’s biggest coups d’état (there writer the praises of El Caudillo’s city. So what of that rancid, have been quite a few) and a leader of the The reach of Franco’s legacy extends Falange, the political organisation behind recalcitrant, dandruff-speckled man to the outskirts of the Spanish capital. Spanish fascism. who once personified Madrid? He The first thing a visitor will notice in At the end Spain’s dictator Francisco Franco died “Franco’s the nearby Cuelgamuros Valley is the may be less ubiquitous than ever of this sumptuous on 20 November 1975 after 40 years imposing Cruz de los Caídos (“The Cross but if you look hard enough you mausoleum is retail strip sits in power. The country has now been of the Fallen”) on top of the Valle de los might still spot these walking relics open for tourists Plaza de España, a democracy for as long as it was stifled Caídos basilica. It was inaugurated on 1 a typically inside the unchanged drinking holes by his authoritarian regime. Madrid, the and attracts April 1959, two decades after the Day Madrileño square of Barrio Salamanca or Chamberí. capital city, the cosmopolitan apple of quite the crowd. of Victory that ended the Civil War and dominated by the country’s eye, the effervescent It receives more marked the beginning of the Franco era. Some hug the bar, sipping on cañas two buildings: epicentre of all things cultural, was also The dictator himself was at the as they grumble about Madrid’s than 200,000 the iconic neo- Franco’s city. The elite of El Caudillo unveiling of the memorial. “I sang for loss of innocence. However in true visitors each baroque Edificio (or The Leader) would sashay along him – I sang for Franco,” says Ángel de España and Madrileño form, most simply shrug its roads; they were mayors, ministers year, who la Torrent, an 80-year-old parish priest the 37-floor- their shoulders, acquiescing to the and industrialists and Madrid’s avenues are drawn whose connection to the cross is almost high Torre de were soon named after them. Entire there either a lifelong affair. More than 30,000 of inevitable march of change that Madrid. Both neighbourhoods, such as Salamanca, the soldiers who fell in the Civil War are has been ushered in by a more by morbid were designed by became hubs for Francoist ideology. buried there. And in November 1975, determined generation. What a curiosity Spanish architects Since then we’ve had the Transición: they were joined by Franco himself. His Julián and José difference a decade makes.— (m) the process by which Spain evolved into a or a respect corpse still lies there today. María Otamendi democracy, completed by the approval of for history” Franco’s mausoleum is open for Machimbarrena as its current constitution in 1978. Then tourists and attracts quite the crowd. an assignment of i there was the 2007 law under the then It receives more than 200,000 visitors the Metropolitan Real Estate Agency to about the writer: monocle’s man in Madrid moved to prime minister José Luis Rodríguez each year, who are drawn either by symbolise the prosperity of Franco’s Spain from Australia in 2011. Between his assignments Zapatero, which condemned Franco’s morbid curiosity or a respect for history. for us he has worked as everything from teacher to Spain. Work on the former started regime and sought to right the wrongs of As a historical monument it could be tourism blogger and even scored a (fleeting) role on during the dictatorship’s heyday in one of Spain’s popular TV shows: El Intermedio. that era. Yet still El Caudillo hasn’t left the so much more and a number of people

082 083 Madrid Madrid 5 E Essays— —Essays E would argue that there is a conspicuous legacy, which endures as an exemplary can accommodate absence of information about the Civil essay 08 model of transformation and regeneration. “Who needs the important tennis War and the dictator himself. Even four The sporting event remade the headache of and basketball decades after the end of Francoism, the Winning isn’t everything Mediterranean city from an industrial hosting the tournaments as country still can’t come to an agreement Olympic optimism backwater into a cosmopolitan seaside well as concerts. on how to treat this controversial valley. metropolis. It was a boost for jobs, world’s biggest Another grand “It’s a hot potato for any government no — infrastructure and tourism; Barcelona is sporting event if project is Madrid matter what their ideology is,” says Pablo Madrid has fallen at the now the 10th most visited city in Europe, the city has Río (see page 111). Linares, president of the Association in last hurdle on three bids luring more than seven million visitors a already been The park is Defense of the Valley. year (Madrid currently attracts four-and- transformed?” probably the After 40 years of democracy the shadow for the Games. Yet a legacy a-half million). capital’s most of the imperial eagle seen in Franco’s is apparent regardless: Add the infamous Madrid-Barcelona ambitious and version of the Spanish flag has continued to rivalry to the mix and it’s no wonder the far-reaching redevelopment to date, glide over Madrid. However, change is in improved infrastructure capital has been trying to bask in some having buried the city’s main ring road the air. A new political party took the reins and an impressive public- of its own Olympic glow. Nonetheless, that used to run along the Manzanares of the city council in June 2015 and has transport network. consistent failure across three consecutive River and split the city in two. The promised to rethink the destiny of the bids has prompted a mild inferiority ambitious plan returned plenty of public remaining Franco-era street signs. Has triumph emerged complex – and disparaging comments space to Madrileños in the form of a vast Such a move is certain to stir the from adversity? from their proud Catalan compatriots riverside green playground with additional ghosts of Spain’s recent past but mayor certainly haven’t alleviated the pain. sport facilities that are open to the public. Manuela Carmena believes it will also That said, once you cut through the It also included the redevelopment of help Madrid’s inhabitants to reimagine by Luis Mendoza, politics you can see just how much the Matadero Madrid (see page 98), an old these contentious parts of the city map Monocle city has already benefited from these abattoir in the Arganzuela district that through an open, inclusive debate. failed attempts. It begs the question: who quickly established itself as the premiere Locals will finally have their say on who needs the headache of hosting the world’s cultural precinct with large venues they think deserves to be honoured by biggest sporting event if the city has accommodating various art exhibitions, the city and see the names of some more Ever since Barcelona hosted the 1992 already been transformed? Successive theatre festivals and music gigs. inclusive figures emblazoned on the Olympics, Madrid has tried to mirror the bids have improved the city’s transport Moving around the city on public capital’s calles. — (m) deed in an attempt to gain international infrastructure as well as cultural and sport transport is also much easier thanks to recognition and attract the flocks of facilities. A number of stadiums were built Madrid’s seemingly endless pursuit of tourists that come with it. You can’t (although perhaps one too many) and the the Olympic dream. Today, the Metro accuse the city of lacking tenacity: its city now enjoys an ample network of is lauded as one of Europe’s most first unsuccessful bid was back in 1972 modern venues to host international comprehensive and efficient networks. when General Franco was still in power. competitions, big conferences and Many new lines have been built to reach However, the real push has been over festivals for music and the arts. A good the city’s outskirts, allowing more people the past decade as the city has flexed its example is the Caja Mágica, an impressive to get to work using the underground and administrative muscles, determined to cubic structure with retractable roofs that making the city less car dependent in the devise a winning bid. It tried to secure the process. In recent years city hall has been 2012 games but lost out to London, then trying to encourage urban cycling too, narrowly succumbed to Rio de Janeiro for Key stations launching public bicycle scheme BiciMad the 2016 event and most recently were — in 2014. It was especially good news for deprived of the 2020 Games which, despite 01 Nuevos Ministerios a city so commonly scourged by painful Get your airport-bound train traffic jams. high hopes, were awarded to Tokyo. from this station. This stubbornness is understandable. 02 Ópera Of course many of these Olympic- i In Spain the 1992 Barcelona games are Host to an underground fuelled improvements have come at archaeological museum. a hefty cost. Quite a few residents about the writer: León has been covering culture, seen as a coming-of-age moment for 03 Atocha would say that while infrastructure travel, history and politics for Spanish daily El an old-fashioned nation, still viewed as The city’s first railway station País since 2009. An avid cyclist and proud fourth- the turning point in a long journey to is a must-visit. redevelopments were indeed timely generation Madrileño (which makes him a gato), the becoming a modern democracy. As a city and necessary for the capital, many young writer can often be spotted around the city of the new imposing stadiums have having a beer with his sprightly grandmother. Barcelona continues to revel in its Olympic

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burdened the city with unnecessary debt. During countercultural movement La Late- A subsequent financial crisis has seen essay 09 Movida Madrileña in the 1980s, there was night hangouts the desire to host the Games waver and a generation that had missed the golden — a weary public now believes that perhaps Nocturnal adventures age of Madrid’s iconic cocktail bar Museo 01 Van Gogh Café Northern neighbourhood it’s about time to take our hat out of the Madrid’s nightlife Chicote (Gran Vía 12), where figures such favourite on Calle Isaac Peral. Olympic ring altogether. as writer Ernest Hemingway, actress Ava 02 Museo Chicote The previous bids have helped the city — Gardner and bullfighter Manolete spent Longest-standing cocktail bar learn some valuable lessons. In 2013, when If you want to discover their wildest days. As such they had to in Madrid still exuding former mayor Ana Botella took to the be inventive in finding a suitably unruly old-school charm. the essence of this city – 03 1862 Dry Bar podium to tout Madrid’s virtues in a final drinking hole. Already writing the blueprint Sip on some of Malasaña’s speech for the 2020 bid, her cringe- whether you’re planning a for Madrid’s modern subculture, the city’s best cocktails. worthy English was universally ridiculed crucial business meeting young cultural elite were dismayed when at home and abroad. While many the bars and discotecas closed each morning Madrileños responded to the embarrassing or a relaxed drink with at 05.00. This is when el tanatorio de la m30, When its doors shut, walk downhill to The speech with humour (signs sprung up the locals – wait until the city’s mortuary on Madrid’s famous Passenger (see page 43) or the nearby 1862 around the city offering one of the the sun sets. It’s after m30 ring road, became the new late-night Dry Bar (see page 41) to sip on some of the mayor’s café con leche, to which she hangout for artists and streetwise “cats” neighbourhood’s best cocktails. jarringly made reference), it was a searing dark that Madrid truly (this is what natives call each other: gatos) Fast forward to the break of dawn and reminder that Spaniards need to work comes alive. to drink the night and morning away. you might find yourself having a beer for harder on their English skills if they want Picture the scene: distraught families breakfast – along with a dish of delicious to welcome a more international crowd. and friends, grieving for their loved ones, bacon and eggs – at Bar Iberia (Glorieta de The growth of our transport network by Rodrigo Taramona, confronted by large groups of heavily Ruiz Jiménez 4), renowned for its unusually has also highlighted how important urban blogger inebriated late-night revellers. This clash early opening time (06.00 is extremely early mobility is to the city’s changing fortunes often produced the unlikeliest of for a late-sleeping city such as this), making as a financial capital. The bids may have conversations: people coming together it a favourite pit stop for taxi drivers and been put on hold for now but no one to chat about the night owls. Madrid’s wild behaviour is hard to put thinks local authorities should drop the The second the sun disappears below the “Fly solo fleeting nature of into words but an old saying has become ball on a proud public-transport network. Sierra de Madrid mountains in the west, life, for example. around the city the unofficial city slogan:de Madrid al Most importantly there has been a more the city gets noisier, sexier and truer to Such profound on any night cielo, y en el cielo un agujero para verlo practical shift in priorities. Instead of itself. The night isn’t only a time for leisure. thoughts are often of the week (“From Madrid to the skies, and from the chasing the elusive games, the city has Any kind of social interaction, even if replicated across skies [we’d want] a small hole to see started to look closer to home and is strictly professional, is best undertaken and odds are town; Madrileños Madrid”). The phrase, coined by investing in a new generation of young once dusk sets in. you’ll meet have a tendency to playwright Luis Quiñones de Benavente Madrileños instead. After all, these The capital’s signature approach is want to arreglar el someone and in the 1600s, resonates because wherever homegrown entrepreneurs are the modern- to discuss business at lunch, after work mundo (“fix the end up partying Madrileños end up, they continue to look day athletes most likely to deliver the city or, even better, over dinner. It could be world”) when together” fondly on their colourful, chaotic and onto the podium of prosperity. — (m) at a crowded bar in Malasaña, the city’s drink is involved. nocturnally inclined city. And if this coolest quarter; a fancy restaurant on As you stroll long-distance pang of nostalgia involves Calle Ponzano, which has the city’s best around the city you may notice that the more than a couple of them you can bet ratio of food fodder; or at one of the many people here like to talk a lot. No matter there will be plenty of empty bottles on the old-fashioned cafeterías on every corner. where you’re from or what language you table as they sit around putting the world Late-night culture runs deep in speak, someone will gladly chat your ear to rights. — (m) Madrid’s dna. The infamous – and off. Fly solo around the city on any night thankfully unsuccessful – 1981 military of the week and odds are you’ll meet coup organised by Lieutenant-Colonel someone and end up partying together. If i Antonio Tejero was planned in a cafetería you’re still sceptical, pay a visit to Plaza de i about the writer: Madrid-native Luis Mendoza called Galaxia (now the Van Gogh Café) San Ildefonso in the Malasaña district, about the writer: Former teenage actor, co-owner of is monocle’s creative solutions executive. Mendoza on Calle Isaac Peral. The perpetrators where La Bicicleta (see page 41) is a melting The Passenger bar and social-issues blogger for glamour.es, moved to London four years ago but returns home named their secret mission after the bar pot: locals and tourists gather from early Taramona also moonlights as a DJ. He spends his regularly as he can’t keep away from his favourite morning all the way through the night. remaining time mending the damage wreaked by his Spanish delights: jamón and his mother’s croquetas. where it all started: “Operación Galaxia”. sociopathic yet nonetheless charismatic beagle.

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The real turning point for this love of essay 10 inhabiting the streets came during La Squares to circle essay 11 Movida, the countercultural movement in — Alfresco alliances 01 Plaza de San Ildefonso Dawn till dusk the 1980s that made Madrid the place for The heart of Malasaña is Outside space hedonism. Film-maker Pedro Almodóvar is abuzz around the clock. The city’s bar scene — the most famous son of this post-Franco 02 Plaza de Olavide — renaissance, a time of earth-shattering Chamberí’s bars, shops et al With its perpetual are centred around this square. If you’re in Madrid with cultural change that irrevocably changed 03 Plaza de Guardias sunshine, open-air the city. The Spanish youth, who during de Corps a thirst it won’t take long terraces and welcoming the previous four decades of Franco’s Small Conde Duque hangout. to quench it; in fact, the dictatorship had been told that everything plazas, Madrid is a was a sin, helped elect Enrique Tierno choice of venues can be city that lives for the Galván, a 60-year-old university professor, In recent years, local authorities have bewildering. You won’t go outdoors. Join us for as mayor. Despite his formal attire, he was extended terrace licences to 365 days a too far wrong wandering anything but conservative and embraced year to raise tax revenues. The pavements a leisurely stroll down the unbridled spirit of La Movida. At a and plazas are more crowded than ever, into the first place you see; some sociable streets. rock concert in 1984 he took to the stage prompting a citywide debate about the failing that, we’ve picked to belt out the infamous words: “El que private domination of public space (one of no esté colocado, the upsides is being able to drink in a out some favourites. by Marcus Hurst, “On weekends, que se coloque!” square without the threat of a hefty fine). editor more than half (“Whoever’s Fortunately there are still plenty of by Pablo Bautista, a million people not high yet, out-of-the-way places that get the balance get high!”). With right. The expanse of La Latina’s Plaza de engineer would fill the Franco repression la Paja has several quality restaurants to ‘calles’; the city still fresh in the choose from; the historic Plaza del Alamillo soon became memory it was a is only a short walk away; and the Plaza de Populated by immigrants from across watershed moment. Guardias de Corps in Conde Duque is a In 1980 an article published in Spain and Latin America, people have long synonymous The mayor pint-sized meeting spot for neighbours. a Madrid weekly suggested that taken to Madrid’s streets in search of with fun and continued to Prosperity may have reined in the city’s opportunities. They’ve mingled among between the Atocha roundabout debauchery” encourage people wild spirit and banished the cows back to market stalls and in the plazas to meet and Anton Martín Square – a to let loose by the fields butMadrileños are still zealous people, find work and build new lives. stretch of barely 700 metres – bringing back fiestas and street concerts. It conquerors of the outdoors. People come to From the 17th century many wasn’t uncommon to find Galván himself the city to work but they’re also drawn in by there were “more bars than in newcomers to the city settled in corralas: having a shot of absinthe in a bar or a its fun. If you’re a newcomer you’ll often all of Norway”. I can’t vouch for cramped buildings held up by wooden cocktail on a pavement terrace. On find yourself being welcomed by people pillars, with interior patios and no running the importance that other world weekends more than half a million people who, not long ago, were also fresh arrivals. water. Often up to eight people were capitals attach to their bars but would fill thecalles ; the city soon became In the public domain everyone is seen as crammed into a space of just 20 sq m in Madrid it’s a longstanding synonymous with fun and debauchery. equal and these empathetic Madrileños so these living quarters were exclusively Leafing through the history books, will look you in the eye and make you feel tradition to count them. for washing and sleeping. To have any this penchant for the outdoors is further included. You may never see them again but In the 19th century the writer semblance of a life, time spent in public apparent. Until the early 20th century, on a warm Madrid night, friendships form spaces was an absolute necessity. and city chronicler Ramón de most residents did their shopping on the easily. It’s the city’s enduring legacy – and The weather helped and still does: Mesonero Romanos wrote “every streets, with stalls lining major a source of pride. — (m) annual rainfall barely hits 60 days a year so thoroughfares and squares. Shops used the building houses a taberna and Madrid’s open-air terraces and parks are inside part of their premises to store their some even have more than two”. In busy year round. Age is no barrier so as products, conducting their business on i the 1600s a popular song boasted night falls it’s not uncommon to see a counters sitting along the front windows. about the writer: Hurst is co-founder of Yorokobu that the city had “300 tabernas old septuagenarian sandwiched between young One could buy milk that had only just been Magazine, a Spanish-language monthly publication revellers drinking at a crowded bar or and blog that covers design, creativity and great ideas and new but only one bookshop”. extracted from its source, contentedly based in Madrid. He arrived in the city from the UK picking their way through a packed plaza. lowing behind the scenes. 10 years ago and has never looked back. This numbers game endures but

088 089 Madrid Madrid 5 E Essays— —Essays E while it’s fun to count, let me offer supreme in Madrid’s bars but in or León). In bars such as Casa some more practical advice. Bars to frequent recent decades beer has begun Curro (Calle Cava Baja 23) this — If you are yet to set foot on 01 Stop Madrid taking its place. Small bottles called timeless tradition attracts all Madrid’s bustling streets, you A stalwart on Madrid’s bar botelines are popular but if you sorts of customers, from friends scene – don’t be alarmed by may still be hanging on to a few the littered floors. want to feel like a true Madrileño partaking in the jolly custom misguided, preconceived ideas 02 Taberna Ángel Sierra order a well-poured caña. It is just of ir de cañas (bar-hopping) to More highbrow but stick to about the bar culture. The innards beer, wine and ‘vermut’. under half a pint of lager, served colleagues gathering for a small of each Spanish bar often contain 03 El Doble from a keg at ración of delicious gambas. All of Quench your thirst with a large wooden, steel or marble double draft beer. “You should the right them can be seen sharing delicious barras but the service they provide, choose the pressure with tidbits, devouring them with forks, the diversity of patrons and the at least half an toothpicks or fingers. long opening hours make these prejudices at the door: appearances most crowded inch of froth. The food selection entombed establishments more than just can be deceiving. One foolproof bar. If you Ritual demands inside the glass casing atop each simple watering holes. sign is to see how busy the bar is can barely that the glass bar can often be bewildering. You From the early morning hours, just before lunch or dinner (lunch make it be left for a few may recognise the ensaladilla rusa churros (a deep-fried dough pastry) usually starts around 14.30 and through the seconds on the (potato salad) but choosing from and porras (larger, thicker churros) dinner is not earlier than 21.00). door you’re counter and the rest is often a question of pot begin flowing over the counter as You should choose the most tapped by the luck. Avert risk and try Bar Fide’s a sweet and speedy breakfast, while crowded. If you can barely make in the waiter. Bars smoked sardines – at one of its more people appear at around it through the door you’re in the right place” that don’t serve outposts on Calle Ponzano 8 or 10.30 for their café de la mañana: right place. well-drawn beer Bretón de los Herreros 17 – the a sacred morning tea or coffee Once inside head straight for are liable to go broke in under a tomato steak at Celso y Manolo break that is even stipulated in the counter; if it’s made of marble month so it’s serious business. (Calle Libertad 1) or the soft-shell some workplace agreements and or stainless steel you might have If a small beer won’t quench your crab at Juana La Loca (see page 34). popular among public servants. just stumbled upon a Madrid thirst, double up by ordering un There’s a strong chance that, Eyes are glued to the TV as landmark such as Stop Madrid (on doble. Better yet, pay a visit to El between all the beers and new- people watch the telediario news Calle Hortaleza 11) or Cervecería Doble (Calle Ponzano 58), which found friends, your list of broadcast, cheer as their favourite Cervantes (Plaza de Jesús 7). Don’t is said to pour the city’s best. museums and monuments team scores a goal or scan the be alarmed by all the shrapnel on Don’t be surprised if your drink becomes secondary or just ends endless stream of celebrity gossip the ground: most residents still is accompanied by a complimentary up trampled among the napkins programmes, known as the crónica have the bad habit of throwing tapa. These popular morsels on the ground. You’re advised rosa, which are favoured by a more their napkins and leftovers on originated when barmen would to view this as an opportunity: elderly audience. Having whirred the floor – and proprietors tend cover (or in Spanish “tapas”) wine missing out on the Prado will into life at 07.00, these bars don’t to use their brooms sparingly. glasses with small slices of bread provide a perfectly reasonable roll down their shutters until 02.00. If you’re inside a classic topped with a piece of cold meat excuse to come back for a second No other type of Spanish business establishment such as Taberna in order to prevent flies getting trip – and another round. — (m) stays open for so long – and they Ángel Sierra (Calle Gravina 11) into patrons’ drinks. While flies are everywhere. and ask for anything other than a aren’t much of a problem these So where to start? Before asking beer, wine or vermouth, don’t be days, many bars in the city still i about the writer: Bautista lives in the Chamberí for tips, explore the streets around alarmed if heads turn: people rarely continue the tradition (although district. After helping to redesign Madrid’s tourism your hotel, entering the first one order outside of this holy trinity. not to the competitive extent of brand from within the city council, he went on to co-found strategic marketing company Idonika that catches your eye. Leave your For centuries wine reigned their peers in Granada, Salamanca and co-ordinates urban trends festival Mulafest.

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essay 12 Cultural highlights — Cultural pursuit 01 CentroCentro A rare glimpse into the city’s The Prado marbled history. 02 Museo Sorolla — An adventure into the heart of A trip to the capital Spanish impressionist painter Jaoquín Sorolla. resulted in Monocle’s 03 Galería Helga de Alvear Europe’s biggest private editor making a last- collection. minute dash to stand in awe of a masterpiece in or Francisco Goya’s “The Third of May one of the world’s finest 1808”, depicting Napoleon’s troops exacting revenge on Spanish rebels, we are here for a galleries. He recommends more northerly piece of art exposure. you do the same – and Tickets are bought and a floorplan secured. If we move fast we will be in front sample the gin. of our quarry within five minutes. We ignore the thousands of faces trying to catch our by Andrew Tuck, eyes from behind veils of fissured varnish, turn the corner and there it is: Hieronymous Monocle Bosch’s “Garden of Earthly Delights”, a triptych that takes you from heaven to hell (no, that’s not a reference to our Wednesday night). All sorts of sin and lust are depicted It’s a Thursday morning after a fun – and and you can see where Salvador Dalí late-running – Wednesday night. Breakfast found some inspiration. It is glorious and has been devoured, several cortados supped gory and spectacular. to find some vigour and we are back on Robert, being wise to these things track. Our colleagues have vanished but (handy if you are the Culture editor), gives monocle’s Culture editor Robert Bound me his take. But mainly we just stand there and I have a couple of hours to kill before staring at the morality play in paint in take-off. We could crack open our laptops, front of us, our gin-and-tonic-induced pretend to read El País or perhaps… is befuddlement evaporating. Then it’s reverse there time? Watches are checked. If we left tack. A few minutes later the concierge now? Don’t dawdle – let’s do it. is shutting the trunk on our luggage and We jump out into the sunshine of Gran we are off to Barajas Airport. Vía, hail the first cab we see and tell the Should you go to Madrid? Yes, even driver to hit the gas, por favor. We want to for one painting. For one deep 10-minute be the first in the queue when the doors inhalation of culture – and a few gins the open. We arrive and join a small cluster night before. You’ll end up in a heavenly of people waiting for someone to unlock scene. Promise. — (m) the doors to the Prado, one of the world’s greatest collections of paintings and certainly the finest gathering of Spanish artworks. i But while some are waiting to see national about the writer: monocle editor Tuck is also a treasures such as El Greco’s “Nobleman presenter of various Monocle 24 radio programmes, with his Hand on his Chest”, whose long including The Urbanist. Tune in to monocle.com to hear tales from the cities we love – including Madrid, face stares at us from his high-pitched ruff, of course.

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