Social Action to Promote Clothing Sustainability: the Role of Transformative Learning in the Transition Towards Sustainability
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
Social Action to Promote Clothing Sustainability: The role of transformative learning in the transition towards sustainability by Lisa Quinn A Thesis Submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies of The University of Manitoba in partial fulfillment of the requirements of the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Clayton H. Riddell Faculty of Environment, Earth, and Resources Natural Resource Institute University of Manitoba Winnipeg Copyright © 2014 by Lisa Quinn THE UNIVERSITY OF MANITOBA FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES ***** COPYRIGHT PERMISSION Social Action to Promote Clothing Sustainability: The role of transformative learning in the transition towards sustainability By Lisa Quinn A Thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies of The University of Manitoba in partial fulfillment of the requirement of the degree Of Doctor of Philosophy In Natural Resources and Environmental Management (PhD) © 2014 by Lisa Quinn Permission has been granted to the Library of the University of Manitoba to lend or sell copies of this thesis, to the National Library of Canada to microfilm this thesis and to lend or sell copies of the film, and to University Microfilms Inc. to publish an abstract of this thesis/practicum. This reproduction or copy of this thesis has been made available by authority of the copyright owner solely for the purpose of private study and research, and may only be reproduced and copied as permitted by copyright laws or with express written authorization from the copyright owner. ii ABSTRACT Sustainability is a journey, not a destination is an adage which certainly holds true for those seeking to live a sustainable lifestyle. Perhaps the essential factor inducing and guiding this movement towards a sustainable consciousness is learning . This study explores a select group of individuals’ continuing journey towards a more sustainable way of life, focusing specifically on clothing sustainability. Mezirow’s transformative learning theory provides the theoretical foundation for this exploration, offering an explanation of the learning process underlying these journeys. According to Mezirow’s critics, however, his theory does not adequately delve into the relationship between transformative learning and social action, such as that taken to promote and support sustainability. This research sought not only to understand the learning process in the context of sustainability and the thoughts and actions of those committed to clothing sustainability, but also to bridge the gap between transformations and social action. Thirty-two individuals participated in Phase One of this two-part study, engaging in an interview and a survey. Seventeen of these individuals, those demonstrating either a steady commitment to a sustainable way of life or a strong desire to adopt a more sustainable lifestyle, participated in Phase Two, which included a life-grid interview. A small subset of this group also took part in a journaling exercise. Drawing on these data sources, this thesis provides insight into transformative learning, namely the key introductory points for sustainability during the lifespan, the types of experiences triggering learning for sustainability, the essential role of instrumental learning in transformative learning and social action, and the complexity of iii the frame of reference. It also provides a greater understanding of social action, identifying the variables of social action, the different layers of barriers participants encountered in putting their learning into action, and the vital importance of a strong support network to both learning and action. Finally, this thesis proposes a model for depicting the relationship between transformative learning and social action. iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS As this journey ends and another begins, I want to stop and take a moment to thank everyone who has contributed to my learning experiences and helped me to complete this study. I would like to begin by thanking my amazing advisor, John Sinclair, who has been unbelievably supportive, understanding and encouraging, in addition to being a great guide and a valuable source of academic advice. Thank you also to my advisory committee - Alan Diduck, Lena Horne and Bob Gibson – for posing challenging questions, providing thought-provoking recommendations and sharing their perspectives and experience. I want to thank my incredible participants. Each shared their journeys so readily, revealing poignant memories such as spending time in small villages with little money, but much happiness; sewing a quilt with their partner for their baby daughter, or starting a new sustainable business. It was a privilege to hear their stories and, by calling on them to critically reflect on their experiences, I was honoured to play a small role in their continued transformation. I am also greatly appreciative to them for inspiring me to further my own personal exploration of sustainable attitudes, beliefs and actions. I also wish to acknowledge the support of my generous funders, the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council and the Province of Manitoba. Finally, I would like to acknowledge my incredibly supportive family. To the two sweetest boys on the planet, thank you for making my whole being smile. And to my husband, words cannot express my thanks for your ceaseless patience, unfaltering fortitude and unwavering love. Thank you for believing in me. v TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT iii AKNOWLEDGEMENTS v TABLE OF CONTENTS vi LIST OF TABLES x LIST OF FIGURES xi LIST OF COPYRIGHTED MATERIALS xii CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.0 Environmental Impacts of Apparel Production and Consumption 1 1.1 Transformative Learning Theory 3 1.2 Purpose 5 1.3 Objectives and Research Questions 5 1.4 Research Plan 7 1.5 Scope 9 1.6 Thesis Organization 9 CHAPTER 2 LEARNING, ACTION AND SUSTAINABILITY 2.0 Consequences of Unsustainable Consumption 11 2.1 Transformative Learning Theory 14 2.2 Social Action 23 2.3 Clothing Sustainability 50 2.4 Summary 74 vi CHAPTER 3 RESEARCH APPROACH AND METHODS 3.0 Introduction 77 3.1 Provisional Truth 77 3.2 Mixed Methods 79 3.2 Case Study 85 3.4 Data Collection and Analysis Methods 89 3.5 Reliability and Validity 115 CHATER 4 THE PARTICIPANTS: CONCERNS, MOTIVATIONS, ATTITUDES AND BELIEFS 4.0 Introduction 117 4.1 The Participants 118 4.2 Concerns 120 4.3 Motivations 123 4.4 Beliefs and Attitudes 128 4.5 Chapter Summary 140 CHAPTER FIVE WHAT THEY DID: PROMOTING CLOTHING SUSTAINABILITY 5.0 Moving Towards Sustainability 143 5.1 Individual Practices and Actions 144 5.2 Collective Action 168 5.3 Other Sustainable Lifestyle Practices 173 5.4 Chapter Summary 176 vii CHAPTER SIX WHERE IT BEGAN: CHILDHOOD FOUNDATIONS AND LEARNING TRIGGERS 6.0 Introduction 178 6.1 Childhood Foundations 179 6.2 Learning Triggers 187 6.3 Clothing Sustainability Triggers 194 6.4 Chapter Summary 208 CHAPTER 7 GETTING FROM HERE TO THERE: THE LEARNING PROCESS 7.0 Introduction 212 7.1 Instrumental and Communicative Learning Outcomes 213 7.2 The Transformative Learning Process 238 7.3 Case Study 275 7.4 Chapter Summary 281 CHAPTER 8 ADVANCING CLOTHING SUSTAINABILITY: SOCIAL ACTION 8.0 Introduction 284 8.1 Nature of Social Action 285 8.2 Barriers to Social Action 306 8.3 Overcoming Barriers to Social Action 334 8.4 Progression from Learning to Action 339 8.5 Chapter Summary 345 viii CHAPTER 9 CONCLUSIONS AND NEXT STEPS 9.0 Introduction 347 9.1 Transformative Learning as Related to Clothing Sustainability 348 9.2 Social Action 356 9.3 The Relationship between Transformative Learning and Social Action 365 9.4 Other Sustainable Lifestyle Choices 383 9.5 Life-grid Framework 385 9.6 Significance and Suggestions for Future Research 387 9.7 Closing Remarks 390 APPENDICES Appendix A Initial Interview Schedule 395 Appendix B Sustainable Clothing Practices Survey 400 Appendix C Life-grid Template 407 Appendix D Environmental and Social Impacts of Apparel 408 Appendix E Supporter Interview Schedules 455 Appendix F Sustainable Apparel Retailers Survey 459 Appendix G Recruitment Poster 466 Appendix H Journal Writing Guidelines 467 Appendix I Consent Forms 472 Appendix J Ethics Approval 487 REFERENCES 489 ix LIST OF TABLES 4.1 Level of Concern for the Negative Impacts of Clothing Production and Consumption 123 5.1 Sustainable Acquisitions Practices 145 5.2 Top Ranked Clothing Criteria 152 5.3 Sustainable Maintenance Practices 161 5.4 Sustainable Disposal Practices 164 5.5 Other Sustainable Lifestyle Activities 175 7.1 Instrumental and Communicative Learning Outcomes 216 8.1 Barriers to Social Action for Clothing Sustainability 307 D.1 Waste Management Hierarchy for Textiles and Apparel 414 D.2 Environmental Impacts of Oil and Gas Production 428 D.3 Alternative Finishing and Dyeing Techniques 444 x LIST OF FIGURES 2.1 Learning-Action-Outcome Continuum 45 3.1 Schematic Diagram of the Mixed Method Design 84 3.2 Schematic Diagram of the Research Design 87 3.3 Life-grid Template 105 7.1 Clothing Sustainability Perspective 259 7.2 Sustainable Living Perspective 260 7.3 A Meaning Scheme’s Link to Multiple Meaning Perspectives 261 8.1 Social Action Variables 306 8.2 Barriers to Social Action Model 333 8.3 Enriched Theory of Planned Behaviour Model 342 9.1 Role of Transformative Learning in the Social Action Process 374 xi LIST OF COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL FOR WHICH PERMISSION WAS OBTAINED 8.3 Enriched Theory of Planned Behaviour Model 342 Shaw, D., Shiu, E., Hassan, L., Bekin, C. & Hogg, G. (2007). Intending to be ethical: an examination of consumer choice in sweatshop avoidance. In G. Fitzsimons & V. Morwitz (Eds.), NA - Advances in Consumer Research Volume 34 (pp. 31-38). Duluth, MN: Association for Consumer Research. xii Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION 1.0 Adverse Impacts of Apparel Production and Consumption Clothing is a necessity for human survival. It provides physical protection against the elements and bodily injury. Clothing is also an integral part of our self-image, a means of consciously or unconsciously expressing ourselves and communicating with others (Cunningham & Voso Lab, 1991; Damhorst, Miller-Spillman & Michelman, 2005).