©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 542

Index

A highlights 232 B Belur 205 Abbakka, Rana 209 internet resources 231 backwaters, 11, Benaulim 158-60 accommodation 500-2, see planning information 262-3, 292-3, 10, 259, Bengaluru 41, 176-88, 178-9 also individual locations 230-1 262, 263 accommodation 181-3 activities, see individual travel seasons 230 Badaga people 402 activities 181 activities Anegundi 220-1, 216 Badami 222-4 drinking 184-5 450 Animal Rescue Centre 159 Baga 142-6, 144 entertainment 185 Adyar Library 339-40 animals 488-90, baksheesh 507 food 183-4 Agatti Island 328 see also individual Bangalore, see Bengaluru internet access 186 animals Agonda 160-1, 11 baobab tree 235 medical services 186 Anjuna 146-9, , 225 147 478 bathrooms 511 shopping 185-6 Araku Valley 254 air travel 513, 514-15 253 sights 177-81 Arambol 153-4 to/from 81 bazaars 18, 472-9 tourist information 186 archaeological sites airlines 513, 514-15 beaches 18 tours 181 236 airports 513 Agonda 160 travel to/from 187 Bazaar 215 Ajanta 12, 169, 100-2, 101, Alleppey Beach 289 travel within 187-8 Nagarjunakonda 249 12, 168 Anjuna 146 berries 119 architecture 12, 485-7 287-92, 288 Arambol 153 Bhandardara 91-2 area codes 17, 510-11 Alleppey, see Alappuzha Asvem 152 253 Arjuna’s Penance 351-2 Amaravathi 256 Baga 142 Bhongir 251 arts 264-5, 480-4, see Amte, Murlidhar Devidas Benaulim 158 Bibi-qa-Maqbara 92-3 also individual arts ‘Baba’ 106 Calangute 142 Bidar 228-9 Ananthagiri 254 Ashoka, Emperor 434-5 Candolim 139 Bidar Fort 171, 228, 170 Andaman Islands 42, 410- ashrams 30-1 Cavelossim 160 Bijapur 225-8, 226 28, 411 Kerala 276 Chapora 149 Biligiri Ranganna (BR) accommodation 410, Maharasthra 106 Beach 316-17 Hills 202 412, 413 361, 363 Cola Beach 160 birds 490 climate 410, 412 Asvem 152 Colva 158 birdwatching 490 diving 417 ATMs 506 Gokarna 212-13 Anegundi 220 highlights 411 Aurangabad 92-6, 94 Havelock Island 419-20 Bandipur National Park permits 413 Auroville 369-71 Kappil Beach 284 200 planning information autorickshaws 517 Bhagwan Mahaveer 410, 412 Kerala 260-1 Avis Island 426 Sanctuary 137 safe travel 412 Konkan Coast 107 courses 31 Cotigao 260, 261, 261 travel seasons 410 Bengaluru 181 Sanctuary 161 Mobor 160 Andamanese people 420 142 Dandeli 223 Morjim 152 Andhra Pradesh 41, 230-58, Kerala 289, 296, 323 Havelock Island 419 Mumbai 52 232 307 Karanji Lake Nature Neil Island 424 accommodation 231 285 Park 194 Rushikonda 251 climate 230 Madikeri 203 Bird Sinquerim 139 festivals 231 Mamallapuram 353 Sanctuary 295 Ullal Beach 207 food 230, 231 massages 289 Mamallapuram 355 Vagator 149, 19 194 Maredumilli 254 Varca 160 Puducherry 365-6 Nagarhole National 260, 261, 260 Park 201 Map Pages 000 Trivandrum 271 bears 105, 223, 490, 491 Sanjay Gandhi National Photo Pages 000 299, 456 327 Park 61 543 Thattekkad Bird Calicut, see travel within 348-9 200 Sanctuary 316 Candolim 139-42 Chennamangalam 317 Colva 158-60 Vedanthangal Bird Cannanore 324-7 Chettinadu 382-4 communal tension 431 Sanctuary 357 canyoning 162 Chhatrapati Shivaji consulates 503 boat travel 514, 515, 517 Cape Comorin 390-3, 391 International Airport 81 cooking courses boat trips, see also car travel 516-17 Chhatrapati Shivaji Goa 131

Maharaj Vastu INDEX carpets 472-3 Kanchipuram 358 Goa 131, 132, 140, Sangrahalaya 49 caste system 449 Kerala 296 142, 161 Chhatrapati Shivaji 292-3, Cauvery River 372 Terminus (Victoria Neil Island 424 -   Cavelossim 160 Terminus) 49 Puducherry 365 262 ,326 ,307 Kollam 285 caves Chidambaram 371-2 Coonoor 400-1 Mumbai 63 Ajanta 12, 169, 100-2, children, travel with 37-9 cooperatives 476 Nagarhole National 101, 12, 168 Mumbai 49 courses, see also ayurveda Park 201 Anegundi 220 Chiriya Tapu 419 courses, cooking courses, meditation 404-5 93 Chola empire 436-7 courses, courses Wildlife Badami 223-4 Cholamandal Artists’ language 61, 340 Sanctuary 296 Baratang 425-6 Village 349 martial arts 271 Ramtek 105 111 Choukhandi 229 music 61, 195 253 254 Chowara 279-80 puppetry 320 Bollywood 483 Edakal Caves 322 439, 440, crater, Lonar meteorite 103 Bombay, see Mumbai Elephanta Island 57 460-1 credit cards 507 Bombay Panjrapole 55 Ellora 97-9, 169, 99, churches & cathedrals cricket 452-3 books 169, 172 Basilica of Bom Jesus crocodiles 275, 302 architecture 485, 487 Forty One Caves 426 136, 440 cruises, see boat trips arts 482 61 Basilica of Our Lady of currency 16 cinema 483 Karla Cave 111 Health 372 curry 464 dance 480 118 Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate customs regulations 502-3 Pataleshvara Cave food 462, 465, 466, 469 Conception 129 Temple 113-14 cycle-rickshaws 518 health 525 Church of Our Lady of Sankaram 253 cycling 515 456, 457 the Mount 137 Undavalli Cave Temples Bengaluru 181 history 430, 434, 437, Church of St Cajetan 137 255 Kochi 307 438, 439, 441, 446 Church of St Francis of cell phones 16, 510 Mamallapuram 354 Indian society 449, 450 Assisi 137 cemeteries Sikhism 459 Lourdes Church 379 Dutch Cemetery 305 wildlife 489 Our Lady of Mercy D border crossings 513-14 Jewish burial grounds Church 158 da Gama, Vasco 439 317 bouldering 217 San Thome Cathedral dabba-wallahs 69 chai 469 454 339 DakshinaChitra 349 Chandor 157 454 Sé Cathedral 136 dance 480, see British East Company chapatis 463, 467 St Stephen’s Church 403 also 440, 442 Chapora 149-52 St Teresa’s Church 72 Dandeli 223 British in India 440, 442-3 Charminar 234-5, 12 St Thomas’ Cathedral 51 Daulatabad 96-7, 171, 171 236, 237, 256, 333-49, 334-5, cinema 483 Deccan Plateau 492-3 459-60 338 Bollywood 76 deforestation 493 Buddhist temples, see also accommodation 340-2 books 483 dhal 463 monasteries, stupas courses 340 festivals 76 Dhanushkodi 389 Ellora 98, , 168 99 drinking 344 Ramoji Film City 240 Dharavi 52 Golden Temple 206 entertainment 345 climate 16, see also Dharmasthala 210 Karla Cave 111 festivals 340 individual regions Dhyana Buddha 256 Nagarjunakonda 249 food 342-4 climate change 493 diarrhoea, travellers’ 527 budgeting 17 internet access 346 clothing, Indian 453 Diglipur 426-7 buffalo racing 212 medical services 346 Cochin, see Kochi disabilities, travellers with bus travel 515-16, 517 safe travel 333, 336 coffee plantations 511-12 business hours 507-8 shopping 345-6 Ananthagiri 254 diving & snorkelling Bylakuppe 206 sights 336-40 Kodagu (Coorg) region Andaman Islands 421 tourist information 346 204 Avis Island 426 Maredumilli 254 C tours 340 Chiriya Tapu 419 Coimbatore 398-400, Calangute 142-6, 143 travel to/from 346-8, 399 Goa 127, 142 349, 350 Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon Havelock Island 421 544 328 environmental issues Kollam 268 vegetarian travellers 464 Mahatma Gandhi Marine 493-4 Lakshadeepotsava 174 forts 18, 487 National Park 419 animal conservation 86 Bangalore Fort 180-1 Neil Island 424 489-90 Mamallapuram Dance Bhongir 251 motors 293 Puducherry 365 Festival 330 Bidar Fort 171, 228, 170 pollution 141 Ross Island 427 Mastakabhisheka 207 Bijapur 226-7

INDEX INDEX Project Tiger 489 Smith Island 427 Muharram 231 Chandragiri Fort 258 etiquette 419 Mumbai 45 Daulatabad 96-7, 171, 171 food 465 (Festival of Lights) Mumbai Film Festival 45 Fort Aguada 140 religion 459 ,24 -  Mumbai Sanskrut 45 Fort St George 336 23  dosas 464 shopping 473 Naag Panchami 86 Golconda Fort 171, events, see festivals & Dravidian politics 332 Nariyal Poornima 45 235, 170 events drinks 468-9 Natyanjali Dance Festival Madikeri Fort 202 exchange rates 17 drugs 127, 505, 506 330 Pratapgad Fort 120 Dussehra 24 Nehru Trophy Snake Raigad Fort 120 Boat Race 268 Dutch in India 440 F Shivneri 118 268 Fernandes House 157 Sinhagad 118 19, 21, 370, E festivals & events 19-20, Warangal 250 21-4 463, 19 economy 431-2 Andhra Pradesh 231 Sabado Gordo 124 electricity 503 Brahmotsavam 231 21, 231 G festivals 319 buffalo racing 212 Sawai Gandharva Gandhi, Mahatma 444, elephant rides & safaris Sangeet Mahotsav 86 445-6 Carnival 22, 124 Goa 138 Shigmotsav () of Ganesh 455 Chennai Festival of Havelock Island 420 124 Music & Dance 330 24 Kochi 307 Tamil Nadu 330 Chithirai Festival 330 Gangaikondacholapuram Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Teppam (Float) Festival 378 Classical Dance Festival 408 330 174 Ganpatipule 107-8 Periyar Wildlife Thirunakkara Utsavam Diwali (Festival of Lights) gay travellers 74, 504 Sanctuary 295-6 268 24, 23 ghats Elephant Stables 215 Pooram 268 Dussehra 86, 174, 195 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Elephanta Island 57, 60 Tibetan New Year 174 Ghat 55 Elephant Race 319 488, 489 Udupi Paryaya 174 Ramkund 88-9 Elephanta Festival 45 Bandipur National Park Vairamudi Festival 174 Vijayawada 254 200 Ellora Ajanta Aurangabad Festival 86 Vijaya Utsav 174 Gingee 362 Biligiri Ranganna Temple Visakha Utsav 231 Global Pagoda 56-7 Wildlife Sanctuary 202 Ernakulathappan Utsavam 268 film 430 Goa 11, 41, 123-64, 125 Chinnar Wildlife Bollywood 76 Sanctuary 302 Fama de Menino Jesus accommodation 124, 124 books 483 127-8 Dandeli 223 Feast of Our Lady of the festivals 76 activities 126-7 Nagarhole National Immaculate Gandhi 445 climate 123, 126 Park 201 Conception 124 Wildlife Ramoji Film City 240 drink 124 Feast of St Francis Five Rathas 351 emergencies 126 Sanctuary 275-6 Xavier 124 flea markets, see markets festivals 124 Parambikulam Wildlife Feast of the Three Kings food 462-71, 503, 504 food 123, 124 Sanctuary 302 124 berries 119 highlights 125 Ellora 97-100, 169, 99, Ganesh Chaturthi 45, 169, 172 86, 174 books 462, 465, 466, internet resources 124 469 Eluru 256 Goa 124 parties 152, 163 embassies 503 chapatis 463, 467 Holi 22, 23 planning information curry 464 123-4 emergencies 17 Huthri 174 dabba-wallahs 69 safe travel 127 Goa 126 International Yoga encashment certificates Festival 330 dhal 463 travel seasons 123 507 Kala Ghoda Festival 45 dosas 464 volunteering 159 endangered species Kalidas Festival 86 idlis 464 440 489-90, see also Kambla 212 paan 463 Gokarna 212-14 individual animals 174 rice 462 Golconda Fort 171, 235, 170 Karthikai Deepam roti 463 Golgumbaz 225-6 Map Pages 000 Festival 330, 362 street food 465-6 Gorai Island 56-7 Photo Pages 000 Kerala 268 thalis 468, 467 green turtles 427 545 Gumbaz 199 390 437-9 motorcycle 519 Guntupalli 257 Mahalaxmi Temple 55 War of Independence travel 504 Meenakshi Amman 443 International Animal Temple 14, 167, 384-6, hitching 517 Rescue 159 H 14, 166, 457, 486 hockey 453 internet access 504-5 haggling 473 Mumba Temple 51 Holi 22, internet resources 17, Halebid 205-6 23 Nasik 89 holidays 509 see also individual INDEX Hampi 14, 167, 214-20, 216, locations Nataraja Temple 371 homestays 502 218, 14, 165, 166 architecture 486 Pataleshvara Cave Kerala 267, 290, 295, handicrafts 221, 325, 345 -  Temple 113-14 297, 298, 300, 316, booking trains 29  455 Ramanathaswamy 320, 324, 327 environmental issues Harmal, see Arambol Temple 389 Kodagu (Coorg) region 493 Hassan 205 Rock Fort Temple 378-9 204 health 525 Havelock Island 419-24, Shore Temple 351, 167, horse racing 405 history 433 422 436 Hospet 221-2 wildlife 490 hawksbill turtles 427 Shri Temple 319 houseboats 262, 263, 262 volunteering 35 health 523-8 Shri Padmanabhaswamy Kerala backwaters 291, Islam 458 henna 481 Temple 271 292-3 itineraries 25-7 Hessaraghatta 188-9 Simhachalam Temple hijras 451 251 backwaters 326 hill stations 20, 266 Sri Jambukeshwara Hubli 222 J Jain temples Coonoor 400-1 Temple 379 Hugging Mother, the 287 Babu Amichand Panalal Kotagiri 401-2 Sri Manakula Vinayagar Hyderabad 12, 233-49, Temple 364 Adishwarji Jain Temple Nilgiri Hills 400, 400 234, 238, 241, 243, 55 Sri Ramakrishna Math 244 Himalaya, the 492 339 Ellora 99, 99 accommodation 240-2 Hindu temples Sri Ranganathaswamy Sravanabelagola 207 courses 239-40 1000-Pillared Temple Temple 379 Sultanbatheri 322 drinking 245-6 250 Thirunelly Temple 322 Jainism 460 entertainment 246 Airavatesvara Temple Trimbakeshwar Jalgaon 103-4 378 festivals 240 Temple 92 Jarawa people 420 Anegundi 220 food 242-5 Undavalli Cave Temples jeep safaris Arunachaleshwar Temple 255 internet access 247 360 Bandipur National Park Vadakkunathan medical services 247 200 Birla Mandir 238-9 Temple 318 shopping 246-7 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Brihadishwara Temple Vaikunta Perumal sights 234-9 408 374-5 Temple 358 tourist information 247 Nagarhole National Bull Temple 181 Varadaraja Perumal tours 240 Park 201 Channakeshava Temple Temple 358 travel to/from 247-8 Periyar Wildlife 205 Venkateshwara Temple travel within 248-9 Sanctuary 295 Dodda Temple 256-7 volunteering 239 Wayanad Wildlife 181 Virupaksha Temple 215 Sanctuary 322 EkambareshwaraTemple Vittala Temple 215 jeep travel 520 358 Hinduism 454-8 I jewellery 473-4 Ellora 98-9, 99 historic sites 165-72 Ibrahim Rouza 226 jungle trekking, Five Rathas 351 history 433-47 idlis 464 see trekking Gangaikondacholapuram books 430, 434, 437 Igatpuri 92 378 British in India 440, immigration 512, 513 Gokarna 212 442-3 Independence 443-5 K Kadmat Island 328 Chola empire 436-7 indigenous people 205 Kakkabe 204-5 Dutch in India 440 Andamanese 420 Iskcon Temple 181 Kalakshetra Foundation Independence 443-5 Jarawa 420 Janardhana Temple 280 337-8 internet resources 433 Nicobarese 420 Kailasa Temple 98 kalarippayat 264-5, 271, Kashmir 444 Nilgiri Hills 402 Kailasanatha Temple 265 Maratha dynasty 441-2 Onge 420 357-8 322 Mauryan empire 435-6 Sentinelese 420 Kamakshi Amman Kanchipuram 357-9, 357 Temple 358 Mughal empire 440-2 Shompen 420 language 532-3 Kapaleeshwarar Temple Partition 444-5, 446 Tamil Nadu 402 324-7 Portuguese in India Indo-Gangetic Plains 492 338 Kanyakumari 390-3, 391 Keshava Temple 200 439-40, 447 insurance Karnataka 41, 173-229, 175 Kumari Amman Temple Vijayanagar empire health 523 546 accommodation 173, 174 Konkani language 533 Mahabaleshwar 118-20 14, 167, 384-6, 14, 166, climate 173 Kota people 402 Mahabalipuram, 457, 486 festivals 174 Kotagiri 401-2 see Mamallapuram mehndi 481 food 173, 174 292-4 456 Melkote 200 highlights 175 Kovalam 276-9, 277, 7 Tank 373 memorials, see monuments & statues, internet resources 174 Kozhikode 320-2, 321 Maharashtra 40, 85-122, 87

INDEX INDEX tombs, shrines & planning information accommodation 85, Krishna 455 mausoleums 173-4 86, 88 Kumarakom 294-5 Mercara, see Madikeri travel seasons 173 climate 85 Kumbakonam 373, 374 meteorite crater 103 festivals 86 -  Kashmir 444  295, 297 Mettupalayam 400 Kathakali 264, 271, 264 food 85 Kurumba people 402 Middle Andaman 425-7 kayaking, see also rafting highlights 87 Minicoy Island 328 Alappuzha 289 internet resources 86 mobile phones 16, 510 Dandeli 223 L planning information Mobor 160 Goa 127 lakes 85-6 monasteries, see also Palolem 161 Arthur Lake 91 travel seasons 85 Hussain Sagar 237 malaria 525-6 Buddhist temples, Kerala 41, 267-328, 269 stupas Kabini Lake 201 language 533 accommodation 268 Bavikonda 253 Periyar Lake 296 Malpe 211 climate 267 Ellora 98 Lakshadweep 328 Mamallapuram 167, 350-6, festivals 268 Guntupalli 257 language courses 61, 340 352 food 268 Monastery of St languages 16, 529-39 Mananthavadi 322 highlights 269 Augustine 137 lassi 469 Mandrem 152-3 internet resources 268 Namdroling Monastery leatherback turtles 427 Mangalore 207-10, planning information 208 206 267-8 leatherwork 474 maps 506 Sankaram 253-4 travel seasons 267 legal matters 505-6 Mapusa 138-9 253 Khotachiwadi 72 Lenyadri 118 Maratha dynasty 441-2 money 16, 17, 506-7 Khuldabad 97 leopards Marathi language 534 monkeys 489 Maredumilli 254 Kochi 303-16, 303, 304, Bandipur National Park monuments & statues 200 306, 308 Margao 154-7, 155 Abbakka, Rana 209 Biligiri Ranganna Temple accommodation 308-11 markets Arjuna’s Penance 351-2 Wildlife Sanctuary 202 activities 307 Anjuna Flea Market 149 Bibi-qa-Maqbara 92-3 Chinnar Wildlife Chor Bazaar 79 courses 307 Sanctuary 302 Buddha Statue Devaraja Market 190 (Hyderabad) 237 drinking 311-13 Cotigao Wildlife entertainment 313 Sanctuary 161 Goa 149 Charminar 234-5 festivals 307-8 Dandeli 223 Krishnarajendra (City) Dhyana Buddha 256 Market 180 food 311-13 Sanjay Gandhi Gateway of India 48 internet access 314 National Park 61 Laad Bazaar 235 Golgumbaz 225-6 medical services 314 lesbian travellers 74, 504 Saturday Night Market Gomateshvara Statue (Arpora) 145 shopping 313-14 Life of Pi 270 206 Sule Bazaar 215 sights 303, 305-7 Lingalakonda 253 Ibrahim Rouza 226 marriage 448-9 tourist information lions 488 Kamaraj Memorial 392 martial arts 271 314-15 Lion Safari Park 275 Nandi statue 215 tours 307 Amrithanandamayi Vivekananda literature 483-4, see also Mission 287 travel to/from 315-17 books Memorial 390 Matheran 108-10 travel within 315-16 Little Andaman 427-8 Morjim 152 Mauryan empire 435-6 Kodagu (Coorg) region Lonar meteorite crater 103 mosques 202-5 mausoleums, see tombs, Haji Ali Dargah 53-4 Lonavla 110 shrines & mausoleums Kodai 393-7, 394 Jama Masjid (Bengaluru) Long Island 426 Mayabunder 426 Kodaikanal, see Kodai 179-80 lunar calendar 21 measures 502 Kolhapur 120-2 Jama Masjid (Bijapur) medical services 525 227 Kollam 285-7, 286 M meditation courses 20, 33 Kuttichira Mosque 320 Kollywood 483 Madgaon, see Margao Eluru 256 Mecca Masjid 239 Konkan Coast 106-8 Madikeri 202-4 Hyderabad 239-40 motorcycle travel 518-20 Madras, see Chennai Maharashtra 86 Moula Ali Dargah 236 Madurai 384-8, 385 Nagarjunakonda 250 Mt Arunachala 360-1 Map Pages 000 magazines 502 Pune 114 Mughal empire 440-2 Photo Pages 000 Mah Laqa Bai 236-7 Meenakshi Amman Temple Mumbai 40, 44-84, 46, 67 547 accommodation 44, Gallery Maskara 53 Volte 53 Navratri 24 45, 63-8 Gandhi Memorial music 480-1 Neil Island 424-5 activities 60 Museum 386 courses 61, 195 newspapers 502 children, travel with 49 Goa State Museum 129 musical instruments 474-5 Nicobarese people 420 climate 44 Guild 53 Muthanga 322 Nilgiri Hills 400, 402, 400 Colaba 48-9, 64-5, 69, Health Museum 240 Mysore 15, 189-99, 190-1 Nilgiri Mountain Railway 73-4, 77-8, 50 HEH The Nizam’s Mysore Palace (Maharaja’s 408 INDEX courses 61-3 Museum 237 Palace) 189-90, 192-3, Nilgiri tahrs 302 drinking 73-6 Hill Palace Museum 317 15, 192, 193 North Andaman 425-7

-  Elephanta Island 57, 60 Houses of Goa Museum  entertainment 76-7 131 festivals 45 Indira Gandhi Rashtriya N O Manav Sangrahalaya Nagarjunakonda 249-50 Old Goa 135-8, 136 food 44, 45, 68-73 194 Nagpur 104-5 olive ridley turtles 427 Fort Area & Churchgate Janapada Loka Folk Arts Nandi Hills 189 49-52, 65-6, 70-1, 456 Museum 189 74-5, 78-9, 54-5 Nasik 88-91, 89 Onge people 420 Jayachamarajendra Art Gorai Island 56-7 national parks, reserves & Ootacamund, see Ooty Gallery 191 wildlife sanctuaries 491 highlights 46 Ooty 15, 403-8, 404-5, 15 Jehangir Art Gallery 52 Bandipur National Park internet access 80 accommodation 405-6 Jhaveri 200-1 internet resources 45 activities 404-5 Contemporary 53 Bhagwan Mahaveer drinking 407 itineraries 48 Karnataka Chitrakala Sanctuary 137 food 407 Kalbadevi 52-6, 71-2, Parishath 178 Biligiri Ranganna Temple 79, 58-9 Kerala Folklore Museum Wildlife Sanctuary 202 internet access 407 Mahalaxmi 52-6, 71-2, 306-7 Chinnar Wildlife shopping 407 79, 58-9 Sanctuary 302 sights 403 medical services 80 Museum 287 Cotigao Wildlife tourist information 407 planning information Mani Bhavan 55 Sanctuary 161 tours 405 44-5 Maritime Museum 305 Crocodile Production travel to/from 407-8 shopping 77-80 Palace Centre 275 travel within 408 sights 47-60 306 Dandeli 223 opening hours 507-8 tourist information 80 Museum of Christian Daroji Sloth Bear Osho (Bhagwan Shree tours 63 Art 137 Sanctuary 221 Rajneesh) 114 travel seasons 44 National Gallery of Eravikulam National travel to/from 81-2 Modern Art 51, 177 Park 302 P travel within 83-4 Nehru Centenary Tribal Karanji Lake Nature Museum 237 Park 194 paan 463 volunteering 61 Prince of Wales Kumarakom Bird painting 475-6, 481-3, 482 walking tour 62, 62 Museum 49 Sanctuary 295 palaces 18, 487 266, 299-302, 300 Project 88 53 Lion Safari Park 275 Aga Khan Palace 113 Murud 106-7 Puthe Maliga Palace Mahatma Gandhi Marine Bengaluru Palace 177 museums & galleries Museum 271 National Park 419 Chowmahalla Palace 235 Anthropological Museum Rail Museum 194 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Daria Daulat Bagh 199 416 408-9 Sacred Heart Natural AP State Museum 237 Science Museum 394 306 201-2 Birla Modern Art Gallery Salar Jung Museum 237 Mysore Palace 239 Samudrika Marine Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve (Maharaja’s Palace) BM Birla Science Centre Museum 416 402 189-90, 192-3, 15, 239 Santa Cruz Basilica 305 Parambikulam Wildlife 192, 193 Car Museum 210 Shree Chhatrapati Sanctuary 302 Chatterjee & Lal 53 Shahu Museum 121 Periyar Wildlife Palace 282 Chemould Prescott St Francis Church 305 Sanctuary 295-9 Royal Centre 215-16 Road 53 Submarine Museum 251 Sanjay Gandhi National Royal Palace (Thanjavur) Park 61 Chhatrapati Shivaji Sudha Cars Museum 375 Maharaj Vastu 240 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Tipu Sultan’s Palace Sangrahalaya 49 Reserve 105 Tea Museum 299 179-80 Chowmahalla Palace 235 Thattekkad Bird Tribal Research Centre Tirumalai Nayak Palace Sanctuary 316 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum 403 386 Mumbai City Vedanthangal Bird Visvesvaraya Industrial Palampet 251 Museum 53 Sanctuary 357 & Technical Museum Palolem 161-4, 161 Galerie Mirchandani + 177 Wayanad Wildlife Steinruecke 53 Sanctuary 322-4, 323 Panaji 129-35, 130 Vivekananda House 337 Panchakki 93 548 Panjim, see Panaji 40, 447 299 Kodagu (Coorg) region Papanasini 322 postal services 508-9 Saddle Peak 427 204 paragliding Project Tiger 489 458 Kumily 296 Goa 127, 146, 153 public holidays 509 safe travel 509 sport 452-3 Lonavla 110 Puducherry 13, 362-9, Andaman Islands 412 Sravanabelagola 206-7 parasailing 364, 13 Chennai 333, 336 Sri Kalahasti 258

INDEX INDEX Goa 127, 142, 158 Pulinkudi 279-80 drugs 127, 505 Srirangapatnam 199-200 Mumbai 63 Pune 111-18, 112 Goa 127 St Thomas Mount 340 parks & gardens puppetry 320 Gokarna 212 street food 465-6 - 

Abraham’s Spice Garden Hampi Bazaar 219 stupas, see also Buddhist  296 Kovalam 276 temples, monasteries Bryant Park 394 Q Amaravathi 256 Queen’s Bath 215-16 rebel violence 509 Cubbon Park 177 Nagarjunakonda 249 Quepem 154 scams 498-9 Lalbagh Botanical Sankaram 253-4 Quilon, see Kollam solo travellers 497 Gardens 177 Sultanbatheri 322 Qutb Shahi Tombs 235 Varkala beaches 280 Ooty Botanical Gardens women travellers 496-7 surfing 212, 281, 428 403 Sai Baba 90 synagogues Panchakki 93 R Sankranti 21, 231 Chennamangalam 317 Rose Garden 403 radio 502 Keneseth Eliyahoo saris 453, 476, 452 Sim’s Park 401 rafting, see also kayaking Synagogue 51 scams 498-9 Theosophical Society Bengaluru 181 Pardesi Synagogue 306 scenic flights 203 339-40 Goa 161 parties 152, 163 scuba diving, see diving & Mumbai 60 snorkelling T Partition 444-5, 446 Wayanad Wildlife Secunderabad 233, 241 Tagore, Rabindranath 484 Parur 317 Sanctuary 322 Senji 362 tahrs, Nilgiri 302 passports 512, 513 Rajneesh, Bhagwan Shree Sentinelese people 420 Taj Mahal Palace, Pattadakal 225 114 455 Mumbai 48, 64, 13 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 456-7 529-32 295-9 Rameswaram 388-90 Shivaji, Chhatrapati 441 Tamil Nadu 42, 329-409, permits Ramkund 88-9 Shivneri 118 331 Andaman Islands 413 Ramoji Film City 240 shrines, see tombs, shrines & mausoleums accommodation 329, Bylakuppe 206 Ramtek 105 Shompen people 420 330 Lakshadweep 328 449 climate 329 shopping 472-9, 475, photography 508 Ratnagiri 107 478, see also markets, festivals 330 pilgrimages 449-50 religion 431, 454-61 individual locations food 330 planning 16-17 books 456, 457, 459 Shore Temple 351, 167, highlights 331 calendar of events 21-4 Buddhism 236, 237, 256, 436 internet resources 330 459-60 children 37-9 Sikhism 458-9 planning information Christianity 439, 440, internet resources 17 Sinhagad 118 329-30 460-1 itineraries 25-7 Sinquerim 139 travel seasons 329 etiquette 459 ’s regions sloth bears 105, 200 Tanjore, see Thanjavur 40-2 Hinduism 454-8 Biligiri Ranganna Temple taxis 518 Islam 458 travel seasons 16 Wildlife Sanctuary 202 tea 469 plants 490-1 Jainism 460 Dandeli 223 tea plantations 15, 266 Sikhism 458-9 politics 430-2 Daroji Sloth Bear Kumily 296 Zoroastrianism 461 Tamil Nadu 332 Sanctuary 221 Munnar 299 retreats, see ashrams, pollution 493, 494, 527 Parambikulam Wildlife teak trees 302 polo, horse 453 ayurveda courses, Sanctuary 302 meditation courses, telephone services 16, Ponda 138 slums 52 yoga courses 509-11 , see Smith Island 427 rhinoceros 488, 489 535 Puducherry snorkelling, see diving & rice 462 temples 18-19, 485-6, see Pongal 19, 21, 370, 463, 19 snorkelling also Buddhist temples, rock climbing 217, 224 population 431, 492 solo travellers 497 Hindu temples, Jain Ross Island 416 Port Blair 414-18, 415 Somnathpur 200 temples roti 463 Portuguese in India 439- South India basics 16-17 Ajanta 100-2 Royal Centre 215-16 spas 33 Rushikonda 251 spice farms 223-4 Elephanta Island 57, 60 Map Pages 000 Andaman Islands 417 Photo Pages 000 S Goa 138 Ellora 97-9, 99 549 Sree Vallabha Temple Tranquebar 372 Viper Island 416 Terminus (Victoria 295 travel seasons 16 251-3 Terminus) 49 Sri Kalahasteeswara travel to/from South India visas 16, 512 Elephanta Island 57, 60 Temple 258 513-14 454-5 Ellora 97-100, 169 Tamil Nadu 355 travel within South India Vivekananda House 337 Hampi 214-20 tempos 517 514-22 volunteering 34-6 Kumbakonam 373

Tendulkar, Sachin 452 travellers cheques 507 Goa 159 Mamallapuram 350 INDEX textiles 477-8 tree trunk, fossilised 403 Kanchipuram 358 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve thalis 468, 467 trekking Mapusa 139 402

-  Bengaluru 181 Ooty Mountain Railway  Thanjavur 374-7, 376 Mumbai 61 Theosophical Society Cotigao Wildlife 408 339-40 Sanctuary 161 Pattadakal 225 264, 325, 265 Havelock Island 419 W Kodagu (Coorg) region Wandoor 419 , see Y Trivandrum 203 War of Independence 443 yoga courses 20, 31, 33, 32 Tholpetty 322 Maredumilli 254 Warangal 250 Bengaluru 181 Thotlakonda 253 Nilgiris hills 404 water, drinking 527 Goa 126, 142, 146, 148, Saddle Peak 427 waterfalls Thrissur 317-19, 318 152, 161 tea estates 299 Abbi Falls 203 tigers 200, 488, 489, 490 Kerala 276 Wayanad Wildlife Catherine Falls 401 Biligiri Ranganna Temple Lonavla 110 Sanctuary 322 Dudhsagar Falls 157 Wildlife Sanctuary 202 Maharashtra 86 tribal people, see Elk Falls 401 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Mamallapuram 353 408 indigenous people Jog Falls 211 Mumbai 63 Nagarhole National Trichur, see Thrissur Whisper Wave Waterfall Mysore 196 Park 201 Trichy 377-82, 380, 382 428 Puducherry 365-6 Parambikulam Wildlife Trimbak 92 White Surf Waterfall 428 Pune 114 Sanctuary 302 Tripunithura 317 Wayanad Wildlife Tamil Nadu 400 Tadoba-Andhari Trivandrum 270-5, 272 Sanctuary 322-4, 323 Trivandrum 271 Tiger Reserve 105 turtles 141, 427 weather 16, see also Varkala 280, 281 time 16, 511 TV 502 individual regions tipping 507 weights 502 Tiruchirappalli, see Trichy (Kerala) Z Tirumala 256-8 U 295-303 zoos Tirupathi 256-8 Udhagamandalam, Western Ghats (Tamil see Ooty Mysore Zoo 194 Tiruvannamalai 360-2 Nadu) 393-409 Udipi, see Udupi Trivandrum 270 402 wildlife 488-91 Udupi 210-11 Zoroastrianism 461 toilets 511 wildlife safaris Ullal Beach 207 Tollywood 483 Bandipur National Park Undavalli Cave Temples 200 tombs, shrines & 255 mausoleums Cotigao Wildlife University of Mumbai Sanctuary 161 Bahmani Tombs 229 49-50 Kabini Lake 201 Bibi-qa-Maqbara 92-3 Lion Safari Park 275 Choukhandi 229 Mumbai 60 Golgumbaz 225-6 V Neyyar Wildlife Gumbaz 199 vacations 509 Sanctuary 275-6 Mah Laqa Bai 236-7 vaccinations 523-4 Vagator 149-52, 150, 19 wildlife sanctuaries, see Paigah Tombs 235-6 national parks, reserves Valiyaparamba 326 Qutb Shahi Tombs 235 & wildlife sanctuaries Varca 160 Raja’s Tombs 203 wine 91, 469 St Francis mausoleum Varkala 280-4, 281, 260 women in India 432, 450-2 136 Vattakanal 396 women travellers 496-7 Top Station 303 vegetarian travellers 464 women’s health 496, 528 tourist information 511 Vellore 359-60 woodcarving 478 tours 520, see also Victoria Terminus World Heritage Sites individual locations (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) 49 Airavatesvara Temple boat trips 292, 293, 378 307, 326 Vijayanagar empire 437-9 Ajanta 100-2, 169, 101 motorcycle tours 519-20 Vijayawada 254-5 Brihadishwara Temple vikrams 517 walking 62 374 vineyards 91 train travel 28-9, 520-2 Chhatrapati Shivaji 540

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world who took the time to write to us. Finally, OUR READERS warm thanks to the fantastic team of authors – Many thanks to the travellers who used you made this edition a delight for me to the last edition and wrote to us with help- coordinate. ful hints, useful advice and interesting ­anecdotes: Lindsay Brown Phil Almond, Paul Anderson, Jonna Bang, I am very grateful for the assistance of vari- Andrew Barnes, Emilia Bober, Juliette Bogers, ous hotel managers, travel desks and tourism John Brankin, Mark Brawler, Lizzie Cawley, centres for putting up with all my questions. I Jane Clarke, Tony Clarke, Jan de Jong, Gemma would particularly like to thank Homi in Mum- Eisner, Jo Garvey, Gabrielle George, Christine bai, coordinating author Sarina Singh, fellow Gibson, Stephanie Gillespie, Lars Haarr, Tage traveller and Kingfisher fancier Stephen Nichol­ Hansen, Scott Harper, Luke Haskett, Rüdiger son, and Jenny, Pat and Sinead at home. Hess, Mat Hines, Daniel Isherwood, Victoria Kjos, Tim Laslavic, Rod Lee, Luca Misasi, Paul Harding Pieter Mols, Maureen Moon, Nia Murphy, Thanks to the many lovely people in Kerala and Malcolm Noden, Karin Nyfort-Hansen, Mahen- Goa who helped with tips, advice and a drink or dra Prabhu K, Vendula Prokopcova, Bharath two. In particular Debra, Johnson, Shibu, Niaz, Punyamurthy, Lynda Purvis, Lieve Roeland, Philip and Maryann, Suresh, Varghese and Christina Ronnberg, Chris Rust, Patricia F Beena, Walter, Ajit, Jack and family. But mostly Sheafor, Sarah-Jane Smiles, Vanessa Stilwell, thanks to Hannah and my beautiful daughter, Joe Thomas, Gert Van Reck, Jens Wieland, Layla, who made Goa so much more enjoyable. Suzie Williams, Leena Zarowiecki Trent Holden & Kate Morgan First up thanks to Suzannah and Glenn for AUTHOR THANKS commissioning us to work on our dream book again. Cheers also to Sarina for her great work in piecing this together. In the Andamans, a Sarina Singh massive thanks to all who helped out with tips A big thank you to everyone at Lonely Planet – and assistance in organising schedules with special mention to Suzannah and Brigitte – etc. Big sing out to Steve, too, for his trailblaz- who worked so hard on this book. Gratitude, ing efforts. While in Karnataka we’re also also, goes to the many readers across the BEHIND THE SCENES 541 -

Naomi Ryan Evans, Chris Girdler 44. ­44. Mazzy Prinsep Hydrology Hydrology and Earth McLaughlin

Backwaters Backwaters near Kochi , , 11, 1633 Parker Thanks to Managing Layout Designer Assisting Layout Designer Cover Research Internal Image Research Kylie Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Larissa Frost, LarissaGenesys India, Frost, Jouve India, Elizabeth Jones, IanPaton, Posthumus, Trent Kerrianne Gina Southway, Walker, Gerard Tsarouhas, Amanda Williamson

David Brigitte ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & ‘Up (2007) McMahon TA dated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Illustration p192 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: (Cochin), Kerala, PitGreenwood/Getty Images. System System Sciences companion Isabella Noble; Ashish Gupta and and Gupta Ashish Noble; Isabella companion Chennai the Pillai; Rangaraj V colleagues; fare a on insisted who driver autorickshaw write-up, during and, offered; than I lower the witty Nala for and Josh Hilary, Coley, to in the meals Jack for and to conversation, home stretch. Catherine ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Carol Jackson Ellemor, MartineEllemor, Power Suzannah Shwer, SuzannahGlenn Shwer, van der Knijff Senior Editor Managing Cartographer Commissioning Editors Coordinating Editors Nigel Chin, Andrea Dobbin Senior Cartographer Coordinating Layout Designer Managing Editors Kemp Naghten Adrian Persoglia -

- - South India & Kerala guidebook was coordinated by Sarina Singh, who wrote the planning and background chapters for this and the last three editions, and co-written by Lindsay Brown, Paul Hard Holden, Amy Karafin, ing, Trent Kate Morgan and John Noble. This guidebook was commis sioned in Lonely Planet’s Mel bourne office, and produced by the following: THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s John Noble super-efficient to special thanks Extra travelling and perfect assistant research Amy Karafin Andhra of the people to grateful I’m deeply and all their help for and Bombay Pradesh Special places. interesting making such for Babu, Ram Kanneganti, Sandhya to thanks and Devi Taps Gayatri, Anand and Jayasri Kishore, and Sandeep Kishore Dr Vasireddy, Malini and Aggarwal, Saaz Arastu, Husain Asif and Surekha Bhartiya, Akash Hariharan, Mujju, Fernandes, Naresh Manik Bhartiya, Shwer, Suzannah Singh, Sarina Asi, Satish at Dhamma and everyone Ellemor, Brigitte and the Global Vijaya Dhamma Khetta, mangalam! sabba Bhavatu Pagoda. indebted to those who helped us get around around us get helped who those to indebted feedback. and all the leads and for our content.’ on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with ‘Do - the above saying of way a longer for on our site email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions and conditions the terms See it. or resell know, you everyone email it to words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass mass site, a peer-to-peer to this chapter upload don’t please words, to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other In other only. purposes non-commercial personal, it for use to ask you to access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair fair think it’s we In return, digitally restricted. is not this chapter to access © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, use, to you for it easier make To Ltd. Pty Publications Planet © Lonely