15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 447

ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX

Note: Page numbers of hotel profiles are in bold face type. À La Villa des Artistes, 95, 97, 100–101, Hilton Hotels, 61, 62, 92 102–3 Holiday Inn, 61 Accor hotel chain, 62 Holiday Inn Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Amarante Beau Manoir, 95, 97–99, 103–4 178 Apartment Living in Paris, 66 Hôtel Amiot, 95, 97–99, 106 Arc Elysées, 179 Hôtel Beaumarchais, 95, 97–99, 106–7 At Home in Paris, 66 Hôtel Bersolys, 95, 97, 100–101, 107 Hôtel Bonne Nouvelle, 95, 96, 98–99, Balladins, 63 107–8 Best Western, 61, 62 Hôtel Brighton, 95, 96, 98–99, 108–9 Best Western Paris Opera, 178 Hôtel Britannique, 109 Bonsaï, 63 Hôtel Clarion Saint-James & Albany, 93, 94, Bristol, 92 96, 98–99, 109–10 BVJ Louvre, 67 Hôtel d’Angleterre, 94, 97, 100–101, 110–11 BVJ Quartier Latin, 67 Hôtel de Chevaliers, 95 Hôtel de la Bretonnerie, 93, 94, 96, 98–99, Campanile hotel chain, 63 111 Castex Hôtel, 93, 95, 96, 98–99, 104 Hôtel de la , 93, 94, 96, Chez Vous, 67 98–99, 111–12 Citadines Apart’Hotel, 69 Hôtel de Lutèce, 98–99, 112–13 hotels, 62 Hôtel de Notre-Dame, 94, 96, 113 Hôtel de Varenne, 95, 97, 100–101, 113–14 De Circourt Associates, 66 Hôtel des Arènes, 95, 96, 100–101, 114–15 Hôtel des Carmes, 178 Etap Hotel, 62 Hôtel des Chevaliers, 96, 98–99, 115 Hôtel des Deux-Iles, 95, 96, 98–99, 115–16 Fédération Français de Camping-Caravaning, Hôtel des Grandes Écoles, 94, 96, 100–102, 69 COPYRIGHTED116 MATERIAL Fédération unie des Auberges de Jeunesse, 67 Hôtel des Jardins du Luxembourg, 96, Formula 1, 62 100–101, 117 Apartments, 66 Hôtel des Marronniers, 93 France for Rent, 67 Hôtel des Nantes, 178 France Homestyle, 67 Hôtel des Prince, 178 Hôtel des Saints-Pères, 93, 94, 97, 100–101, Grand Hôtel Inter-Continental, 92 117–18 Grand Hôtel Lévêque, 95, 97, 100–101, Hôtel des Tuileries, 95, 96, 98–99, 118–19 104–5 Hôtel du Champ-de-Mars, 93, 94, 97, Grand Hôtel Mahler, 95, 96, 98–99, 105–6 100–101, 119 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 448

448 INDEX

Hôtel du Cygne, 95, 96, 98–99, 119–20 Novotel, 62, 179 Hôtel du Danemark, 95, 97, 100–101, 120 Novotel Paris Les Halles, 178 Hôtel du Jardins du Luxembourg, 95 Novotel Paris Tour Eiffel, 179 Hôtel du Lutèce, 95 Hôtel Duc de Saint-Simon, 93, 94, 97, Paris Apartment Search, 66 100–101, 121 Paris Apartments Services, 66 Hôtel Esméralda, 95, 96, 100–101, 122 Paris Sleeps, 67 Hôtel Eugénie, 95, 97, 100–101, 122–23 Paris-Anglophone, 67 Hôtel Favart, 95, 96, 98–99, 123 ParisApartHotel, 69 Hôtel Istria, 94, 97, 100–101, 123–24 Parissimo Apartments, 69 Hôtel Langlois, 93, 94, 97–99, 124–25 Pierre et Vacances, 69 Hôtel Le Colbert, 93, 94, 96, 100–101, 125 Plaza Athénée, 64, 93 Hôtel Lutèce, 96 Première Classe, 63 Hôtel Lutétia, 92, 93, 94, 97, 100–102, Prince de Galles, 93 125–26 Hôtel Parc Saint-Séverin, 93, 94, 96, 100–101, Raphaël, 93 126–27 Relais & Châteaux, 62 Hôtel Récamier, 94, 97, 100–101, 127 Relais Mercure Paris Bercy, 179 Hôtel Regina, 93, 94, 96, 98–99, 128 Rentals in Paris, 65 Hôtel Saint-Louis Marais, 93 Ritz-Carlton, 62, 64 Hôtel Saint-Paul le Marais, 94, 96, 98–99, RothRay Rentals, 65–66 128–29 Royal , 93 Hôtel Sévigné, 95, 96, 98–99, 129 Hotel Sofitel, 62 Saint-James Paris, 93 Hôtel Turenne Le Marais, 95, 96, 98–99, Scribe, 64, 93 130 Servissimo, 66 Hyatt Hotels, 62 Sheraton Hotel, 61, 62 Sofitel le Parc, 93 Ibis, 62 Suitehotel Paris Porte De Montreuil, 179 Ibis Lafayette, 179 Syndicat National des Résidences de Tourisme, 69 Kyriad hotel chain, 63 Terrass Hôtel, 93, 94, 97–99, 133 La Pavillon Bastille, 97 Three Ducks Hostel, 68 La Tour d’Auvergne, 95, 97–99, 131 Timhôtel chain, 62–63 Le Crillon, 92 Timhôtel Jardin des Plantes, 94, 96, Le Pavillon Bastille, 95, 98–99, 131–32 100–101, 133–34 Le Ritz, 93 Tulip Inn Little Palace, 178 Les Rives de Notre-Dame, 93, 94, 96, 100–101, 132 UCJG—YMCA, 67 L’Hôtel, 64, 93, 94, 97, 100–102, 130–31 Vendôme, 64 Mercure Hotels, 62 Meurice, 93 Welcome Hôtel, 94, 97, 100–101, 134 MIJE Fauconnier, 67 Westin Hotels, 62 MIJE Fourcy, 68 Westin Paris, 92 MIJE Maubisson, 68 Motel 6, 62 Young & Happy Hostel, 68 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 449

RESTAURANT INDEX

Note: Page numbers of restaurant profiles are in bold face type.

Amorino, 318 Crêperie des Etoiles, 315 Angelina, 316 Crêperie Le Petit Josselin, 315 Aquarius, 321 Astier, 336, 337, 341, 342–43 Dame Tartine, 334, 339, 342–43, 355 Atelier Maître Albert, 335, 338, 341, Drouant, 334, 338, 342–43, 355–56 344–45, 347 Au Chien Qui Fume, 334, 337, 342–43, 347 Fish!, 335, 339, 344–45, 356 Au Trou Normand, 336, 339, 342–43, 404, 334, 339, 342–43, 356–57 347–48 Harry’s New York Bar, 342–43, 428, 435–36 Batofar, 344–45, 429, 430–31 Hediard, 318 Berthillion, 318 Hippopotamus, 317 Bistro Romain, 317 Bofinger, 314, 334, 337, 342–43, 348–49 Jacques Cagna, 335, 338, 344–45, 357 Brasserie Balzar, 314 Julien, 336, 337, 342–43, 357–58 Brasserie Flo, 314 Brasserie Lipp, 314, 335, 337, 344–45, 349 La Bastide Odéon, 335, 337, 344–45, 362 Buddha Bar, 335, 339, 342–43, 367–68, La Cantine du Faubourg, 335, 337, 342–43, 428, 431 362–63 La Cigale Récamier, 335, 338, 346, 363 Café Beaubourg, 342–43, 428, 431–32 La Coupole, 314, 336, 337, 344–45, Café Burq, 336, 339, 342–43, 349–50 363–64 Café de Flore, 344–45, 428, 432 La Favela Chic, 342–43, 429, 436–37 Café Noir, 336, 339, 350 La Galleria Ristorante, 336, 339, 346, 364 Café Very, 334, 338, 342–43, 350–51 La Palette, 344–45, 428, 437–38 Chartier, 335, 337, 342–43, 351–52 La Rôtisserie du Beaujolais, 334, 337, Chez Adrienne, 334, 337, 342–43, 352 344–45, 364–65 Chez Gramond, 335, 337, 344–45, 352–53 La Sancerre, 429 Chez Jean-Claude Gramond, 334 La Tour d’Argent, 335, 337, 344–45, Chez Jenny, 314, 337, 342–43, 353 365–66 Chez Julien, 334, 338, 342–43, 353–54 La Victoire Suprême du Coeur, 321 Chez Marcel, 335, 337, 344–45, 354 Ladurée, 316, 335, 339, 342–43, 366 Chez Ramulaud, 336, 337, 342–43, L’Ambassade D’Auvergne, 334, 338, 354–55 342–43, 358 China Club, 342–43, 429, 432–33 L’Ambroisie, 334, 338, 342–43, 358–59 Closerie des Lilas, 344–45, 428, 433 L’Auberge Nicolas Flamel, 334, 338, 342–43, Clown Bar, 342–43, 429, 433–34 359 Crazy Horse Saloon, 342–43, 428, 434 Le Balzar, 335, 337, 344–45, 366–67 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 450

450 INDEX

Le Bilboquet, 344–45, 428, 438–39 L’Impasse, 334, 338, 342–43, 361 Le Dos de la Baleine, 334, 337, 342–43, 368 L’Os à Moëlle, 336, 338, 346, 361–62 Le Grand Colbert, 334, 337, 342–43, 368–69 McDonald’s, 317 Le Grand Véfour, 334, 337, 342–43, 369 Mandala Ray, 342–43, 428, 442 Le Grenier de Notre-Dame, 321 Mansouria, 320 Le Jardin des Pâtes, 321, 335, 339, 344–45, Monsieur Lapin, 336, 338, 344–45, 375 369–70 , 342–43, 429, 443 Le Lido, 342–43, 428, 439 Le Mécano Bar, 342–43, 429, 439–40 Petites Sorcières, 336, 337, 344–45 Le Père Claude, 336, 337, 346, 370 Pitchi Poï, 334, 339, 342–43, 375–76 Le Petit Fer à Chevai, 342–43, 428, 440 Le Restaurant, 336, 338, 342–43, Quick, 317 370–71 Le Sancerre, 342–43, 440–41 Rendez-Vous des Chauffeurs, 336, 338, Le Souk, 320 342–43, 376 Le Square Trousseau, 336, 337, 342–43, 371 The Reservoir, 342–43, 429, 443 Le Vieux Bistro, 334, 338, 342–43, 371–72 Restaurant du Musée D’Orsay, 335, 338, Le Villaret, 336, 337, 342–43, 372 346, 376–77 Lemoni Café, 321 Roger la Grenouille, 335, 338, 377 Léon de Bruxelles, 317 Rosebud, 429, 443–44 Les Bains Douches, 342–43, 428, 441 Les Deux Canards, 336, 338, 360–61, Sanz Sans, 342–43, 429, 444 441–42 Satellit’ Café, 342–43, 429, 444–45 , 344–45, 428 Spoon, 335, 337, 342–43, 378 Les Ormes, 335, 337, 346, 373 Les Petites Sorcières, 373–74 Taverne Henri-IV, 342–43, 428, 445 Les Philosphes, 334, 337, 342–43, 374 Les Zygomates, 336, 338, 342–43, 374–75 Vin & Marée, 336, 339, 346, 378–79 L’Escargot Montorgueil, 334, 338, 342–43, 359–60 Ziryab, 320, 335, 339, 379 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 451

SUBJECT INDEX

Accidents, management of, 184 rating/ranking of, 88–102 Accommodations, 58–134. See also separate recreation facilities in, 405 index of hotel names reservations for airport shuttles of, 141–42, 144 at airports, 71–72 at airports, 71–72 deposits for, 102 alternative options for, 65–67 guaranteed, 75 apartments, 65–67, 88 from home, 75–79 arrival time at, 74 restaurants in, 86–87 breakfast in, 86–87 romantic, 93 for business travelers, 71–72 room features in, 79–88 camping, 69 rules in, 72–75 cancellation policies for, 75, 102 security in, 185 chain vs. independent, 61–62 small vs. large, 61 comparison of, 94–95 specialized, 68–69 concierge in, 87–88 staff in, 88 for conferences, 71 star classification for, 63–65, 89–90 from consolidators, 37–38 street vs. courtyard, 86 costs of, 72–76, 91–92 swimming pools in, 409 country residences, 69 telephoning from, 85, 155 courtyard vs. street, 86 tipping in, 166 deposits for, 102 from tour operators, 38–39 for disabled visitors, 177–78 types of, 61–70 discounts for, 73, 92 unusual, 68–69, 102 elevators in, 79 views from, 93 English spoken in, 74 wake-up calls in, 83 hostels, 65–68 without reservations, 78–79 independent vs. chain, 61–62 Addresses, 13–14, 188–89 keys for, 86 AIDS, support services for, 175 large vs. small, 61 Air France Airport Bus, 140 laundry facilities in, 168–69 Air travel, 39–46. See also Airports lobby of, 86 Air France, 44–45 location of, 59–61 airline office telephone numbers, 146 luxurious, 92–93 with bike, 413–14 money exchange in, 162 cheap, 43 noise in, 84 connecting to Paris, 43 in package deals, 35–39 as courier, 43 in prime areas, 60–61 flight confirmation for, 146 at private homes, 69–70 jet lag in, 135–36 profiles of, 102–34 luggage for, 49–50 radios in, 83 newspaper information on, 38–40 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 452

452 INDEX

Air travel (continued) Arrondissements, 8–14, 188 in package deals, 35–39 attractions in, 226–31 reservations for, 30–32, 41–45 centrally located, 60 travel agent help with, 39 hotels in, 96–97 Airports, 134–45 maps of, 10–11 accommodations at, 71–72 nightclubs in, 428–29 buses to/from, 140–41, 143–44, 147, 148 restaurants in, 333–41 car rental at, 201 Art museums Charles de Gaulle. See Charles de Gaulle Centre Georges-Pompidou, 243–44 Airport Espace -Salvador Dali, 247–48 departing procedure at, 145–49 Galeries Nationales du , 248 disabled visitor services at, 176–77 Louvre, Le, 256–58 information stands at, 139 Musée Cernuschi, 261 luggage claiming and problems at, 137–38 Musée Cognacq-Jay, 262 Orly. See Orly Airport Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, shuttle service at 262–63 arriving, 141–44 Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, departing, 148, 149 263 taxis to, 147–49 Musée de l’Orangerie, 265–66 transportation to/from, 139–42, 146–49 Musée d’Orsay, 263–64 VAT refund at, 149, 381–82 Musée du Quai Branly, 269 Alcoholic beverages. See also Wine Musée Eugène Delacroix, 269–70 in cafés, 310–11 Musée Jacquemart-André, 270–71 in dations, 85 Musée Marmottan-Monet, 271–72 shopping for, 403–4 Musée National des Arts Asiatiques Guimet, Alliance Française, 47 272 American Express, 164 Musée National Picasso Paris, 273–74 American Hospital, 173 Musée Nissim de Camondo, 272–73 Americans, famous, addresses of, 211 Musée Rodin, 274 André Citroën Park, 290 Musée Zadkine, 274–75 Apartments, rental of, 65–67, 88 Musées des Arts Décoratifs, 267–68 Aquariums, 277 Palais de Chaillot, 276–77 , 241 Artistic landmarks, 214–15 Arcades, covered, 209–10 Astérix theme park, 303 Architectural facades, 216–18 Automatic teller machines, 56–57, 162 Army Museum, 250–51, 264–65 Avenue Victor Hugo, shopping in, 386 Arrival and orientation, 135–36 by air. See Air travel; Airports Babysitting services, 181–82 by car, 152–54 Baccarat Boutique Museum, 241–42 day one, 136–45 Bagatelles Park, 290 disabled persons, 176–80 Ballet, 419–20 dogs, 168, 406, 408 Balzac, Honoré de, home of, 259 e-mail, 158–60 Banking, 16, 162–65, 204 French language, 25–27, 154, 216 Bars, profiles of, 428–46 health problems, 172–75 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, La, 251–52 jet lag, 135–36 Bastille/République, 12 laundry facilities, 168–69 attractions in, 221 local customs, 166–75 map of, 10–11 money. See Money monument in, 278–79 newspapers, 166–67 shopping in, 386 postal service, 160–61, 163, 382 Bathrooms, 80–82 publications. See Publications Baths, Roman, 268–69 religion and houses of worship, 16, 83–84, Beaches, 415 175 Beaubourg (Centre Georges-Pompidou), safety and security, 164, 172, 184–86 243–44 smoking. See Smoking Beggars, 194 telephones. See Telephones Belleville, 223 tipping. See Tipping Benedictine order, 246 toilets. See Toilets Beverages, 307–11, 332. See also Alcoholic by train, 149–52 beverages; Wine 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 453

INDEX 453

Bicycling, 208, 412–14 Chateaus, 224 Bidet, 82 Châtelet–Les Halles, 9–11, 220 Bistros, 314–15, 337–39 Cheese, 330–31, 398 Boats, 198, 207–8, 409–10 Children, 180–84 , 281–82 babysitting for, 181–82 , 282–83 educational park for, 285, 287 Bookstores, 214–15, 384, 398–99, 423–24 medical problems of, 173 Boulangeries, 316–17 museums for, 182–83 Boulevard Haussman, shopping in, 385–86 anthropologic, 265 Boulogne Park, 281–82 art, 276–77 Brasseries, 314–15, 337 money, 266–67 Bread, 316–17, 397 natural history, 275 Bridges, 294–98 Rodin, 274 Buses, 195–98 science and industry, 245 from airports, 140–41, 143–44 wax, 270 to airports, 147–48 parks for, 182–83 tour, 206–7 restaurants for, 180–81 Business travelers shopping for, 398–400 accommodations for, 71–72 theme parks for, 298–300, 303 information for, 47–48 views for, 279–80 phone cards for, 157–58 zoos for, 288, 292 Buttes-Chaumont Park, 291 Chinatown, 222–23 Churches, 16, 83–84, 175, 224 Cabarets, profiles of, 428–46 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, La, 251–52 Cabs. See Taxis Cathedrale de Notre-Dame, 242–43 Cafés and café tabac, 307–13 concerts in, 421 Camping, 69 Eglise de St. Sulpice, 246–47 Canal tours, 208 Eglise St. Eustache, 245–46 Canauaxrama, 208 Eglise St.-Germain-des-Prés, 246 Car rental, 142, 149 , La, 254 Carnavalet Museum, 261 Sainte-Chapelle, 279 Cars Cigarette smoking. See Smoking driving of, 152–54 Cinema, 166, 424 rental of, 200–202 Cinema museums, 253 Cash. See Money Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, 245 Catacombes, Les, 289 City Hall (Hôtel de Ville), 249–50 Cathedrale de Notre-Dame, 242–43 City squares, 224 Cemeteries, 224 Clocks, 82 Catacombes, Les, 289 Clothing Montmartre, 283–84 museums about, 266 , 285 recommendations for, 54–55 Père-Lachaise, 284–87 dinner, 333 Centre Georges-Pompidou, 243–44 nightlife, 425 Cernuschi Museum, 262 weather, 33 Chambers of Commerce, 47–48 shopping for, 402 Champs-Elysées/, 12 Clubs, nightlife in, profiles of, 428–46 attractions in, 221 Coffee, 308–9, 332 map of, 10–11 Cognacq-Jay Museum, 262 parks in, 283, 293 Concert halls, 420–21 shopping on, 386 Concierge, 87–88, 166 Charles de Gaulle Airport, 45, 134–52 , La, 252–53 accommodations at, 71–72 Concorde, Place de la. See Champs- information stands at, 139 Elysées/Place de la Concorde luggage claiming and problems at, 137–38 Conference centers, 71 telephone number of, 146 Consolidators, 37–38 terminals of, 136–38, 147 Consular offices, 52–53, 186 transportation to/from, 139–42, 146–48 Contact lenses, replacement of, 174–75 Château de Fontainebleau, 300 Cooking classes and supplies, 215–16, 397, Château de Versailles, 300–302 401 Château de Vincennes, 244 Correspondance, for train transfers, 193 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 454

454 INDEX

Costs Driving, in Paris, 152–54 accommodations, 72–76, 91–92 Drugstores, 174 attractions. See specific attractions Dry cleaning, 168–69 babysitting, 181–82 budgeting, 55–56 Eating. See Dining; Restaurants car rental, 201–2 Eglise de St. Sulpice, 246–47 gasoline, 153 Eglise St. Eustache, 245–46 Métro tickets, 191 Eglise St.-Germain-des-Prés, 246 Museum and Monument Pass, 219 Egouts de Paris (sewers), 247 nightlife admission, 425–26 Egyptian obelisk, 293 postal service, 160 , 12, 188, 221, 255–56 restaurants, 333–41 disabled access to, 180 seasonal, 33 map of, 10–11 taxis, 141, 198–200 views of, 280 telephone, 155–58 Electric service, 16 Costume museums, 266 Electrical equipment compatibility, 50 Country homes, rental of, 69 Elevators, in accommodations, 79 Credit cards, 56, 165, 382–83 E-mail, facilities for, 158–60 lost/stolen, 185 Embassies, in Paris, 186 for restaurant bills, 332 Emergencies Crêperies, 315 health problems, 172–75 Crime, 184–85, 194 telephone numbers for, 185–86 Crystal museum, 241–42 Entertainment Currency. See Money night. See Nightlife Customs regulations, 53–54, 138, 382 television, 85–86 Cycling, 208, 412–14 Espace Montmartre-Salvador Dali, 247–48 Eurail Pass, 200 Dali, Salvador, museum about, 247–48 Euros, 27–29, 161–64 Dance, 419–20 EuroStar train, 151–52 Day trips, outside Paris, 298–300 Exchange, currency. See Money, exchange of de Camondo Museum, 272–73 Excursions, outside Paris, 298–300 Decorative arts museums, 267–68 Exercise. See Recreation Delacroix, Eugene, 246–47, 269–70 Dentists, 174 Facades, architectural, 216–18 Departing Fashion museums, 266 by air, 145–49 Faxing, 154–55, 161 by car, 152–54 Film museums, 253 by train, 149–52 Films, 166, 424 Department stores, 387–88 Fire department, 185 Deportation Museum, 260 Fishing, 409–10 Dining. See also Restaurants Fitness. See Recreation boulangeries, 316–17 Flea markets, 394–95 classic French dishes, 319 Foie gras, 400 ethic foods, 319–20 Fontainebleau, 300 ethnic foods, 338–39 Food. See Dining; Restaurants gourmet shops, 318–19, 401 Foucault’s pendulum, 259 haute cuisine, 313–16, 338 Français. See Language, French hours for, 305–6 Francs. See Money overview of, 304–5 French language. See Language, French Parisian eating habits and, 304–5 Fürstenberg Park, 293 sandwiches, 312–13 street food, 318 Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, 248 weight control during, 305 Galleries, art, 215 Disabled visitors, services for, 176–80 Gardens. See Parks and gardens , 298–300 Gasoline, 153 Doctors, 172 Gay and lesbian community, 426–27 Dogs, 168, 406, 408 Geography. See Also Arrondissements Dollars, conversion tables for, 29 addresses, 13–14, 188–89 d’Orsay Museum, 263–64 hotel locations and, 59–61 Dress recommendations. See Clothing maps, 187–88 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 455

INDEX 455

Seine River, 14 public transportation, 189 street numbers, 13–14 tour operators, 38–39 street signs, 188–89 Inline skating, 414 Giverny, 302–3 Institut du Monde Arabe, 251 Glasses, replacement of, 174–75 Insurance, health, 172–73 Glassware museums, 241–42 Internet, e-mail, 158–60 Golf, 414–15 Internet cafés, 160 la Défense, La, 253–54 Invalides, 12 Grands Boulevards, 10–11, 13, 222 attractions in, 221 Greeting, customs and phrases for, 15, 27 map of, 10–11 Grévin Museum, 270 Gym clubs, 411–12 Jacquemart-André Museum, 270–71 Jardin d’Acclimatation, 285, 287 Hairdressers, tipping, 166 Jardin des Plantes, 288 Handicapped visitors, services for, 176–80 , 288–89 Health problems, 172–75, 185–86 Jet lag, 135–36 Hertford British Hospital, 173 Jogging, 405–9 Hiking, 410 Judaica museums, 262–63 History, 18–25 History museums La Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, 251–52 Musée Carnavalet, 261 La Cinémathèque Française—Musée du Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, Cinéma, 253 262–63 La Conciergerie, 252–53 Musée du Moyen Age, 268–69 La Grande Arche la Défense, 253–54 Musée Jean Moulin Mémorial Leclerc, 271 La Madelaine, 385–86 Panthéon, Le, 258–59 La Madeleine, 254 Holidays, 17, 33 La Sorbonne, 254–55 Homeless population, 194 La Tour Eiffel, 255–56 Horseback riding, 415 Labyrinth, 183 Hospitals, 173 Language, French Hostels, 65–68 for directions, 154 Hôtel de Ville, 249–50 lessons on, 216 Hôtel National des Invalides, 250–51 tips for, 25–27 Hotels. See Accommodations Latin Quarter, 9, 10–11, 220 Houses of worship, 16, 83–84, 175. See also Laundry facilities, 168–69 Churches Le Louvre, 256–58 Hugo, Victor, home of, 259–60 Le Panthéon, 258–59 Humankind, museum about, 265 Lectures, 423–24 Left Bank, 9, 14 Île Saint Louis/Île de la Cité, 9 accommodations, 100–101 attractions in, 220 attractions, 236–40 bridges of, 295–96 Les Catacombes, 289 map of, 10–11 Les Halles, 385. See also Châtelet–Les Halles Illness, management of, 172–75, 185–86 Les Tuileries, 289–90 Immigration museums, 277 Lesbian and gay community, 426–27 Information License, driver’s, 152 accommodations without reservations, Lights, of Paris, 204–5, 417 78–79 Limo service, 202 airports, 139 Literary landmarks, 214–15 Alliance Française, 47 Literary museums, 259–60 car rental, 201–2 Lockers, at train stations, 151 chambers of commerce, 47–48 London-Paris tunnel train, 151–52 cultural events, 218–19 Lost and found, 185 disabled visitor services, 176–77 Louvre, Le, 256–58 English-language publications, 166–67 Luggage, 49–50, 137–38 entertainment, 418 Luxembourg Park, 288–89 government tourist office, 46–47 musical events, 418 Madeleine, La, 254 package tours, 38–39 Mail service, 160–61, 163, 382 Paris Tourist Office, 78–79 , 259 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 456

456 INDEX

Maison de la France, 46–47 Mémorial de la Déportation, 260 Maison Victor Hugo, 259–60 Opéra Garnier, 276 Maps, list of, xv Palais Royal, 278 Marais, 9, 10–11, 220, 385 , 278–79 Markets, open-air, 391–96 56, 279–80 Medical problems, 172–75, 185–86 Morrison, Jim, grave of, 285 Medications, 174 Moulin, Jean, museum about, 271 Merry-go-rounds, 183 Movies, 166, 424 Métro, 189–95 Musée Cernuschi, 262 disabled visitor services on, 178–79 Musée Cognacq-Jay, 262 distances between stations, 190 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, first class tickets, 194 262–63 hours of, 189 Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, lines, 189–90 263 maps of, 189–90 Musée de la Monnaie, 266–67 Paris Visite, 191–93 Musée de l’Armée, 264–65 street people in, 194 Musée de l’Homme, 265 tickets for, 191–92 Musée de l’Orangerie, 265–66 transfers on, 194 Musée d’Orsay, 263–64 use of, 193–94 Musée du Cristal Baccarat, 241–42 Military museums, 250–51, 264–65, 271 Musée du Moyen Age, 268–69 Mint, national, museum of, 266–67 Musée du Quai Branly, 269 Mona Lisa, 258 Musée Eugène Delacroix, 269–70 Monceau Park, 291–92 Musée Grévin, 270 Monet, Claude, 271–72, 302–3 Musée Jacquemart-André, 270–71 Money, 16 Musée Jean Moulin Mémorial Leclerc, 271 banking services, 16, 164–65 Musée Marmottan-Monet, 271–72 cash to carry, 56–57 Musée National d’Art Moderne, 243–44 coins, 161 Musée National des Arts Asiatiques Guimet, commas vs. decimal points in, 17 272 conversion tables for, 27–29 Musée National Picasso Paris, 273–74 denominations of, 161 Musée Nissim de Camondo, 272–73 euros, 27–29, 161–64 Musée Rodin, 274 exchange of Musée Zadkine, 274–75 at accommodations, 162–63 Musées de la Mode de la Ville de Paris— at American Express office, 164 Palais Galliera, 266 at ATMs, 162 Musées de la Musique, 267 at banks, 162–63 Musées des Arts Décoratifs, 267–68 at change bureaus, 163 Museum(s), 225–26. See also Musée commission for, 162 Arab culture, 251 at post office, 163 art. See Art museums rates for, 27–29, 56–57, 144–45 for children, 182–83 on the street, 163 clothing, 266 museums for, 266–67 costume, 266 services for, in postal offices, 160 fashion, 266 wiring of, 164–65 film, 253 Montmartre, 13 gift shops in, 384 attractions in, 222 glassware, 241–42 cemetery in, 283–84 history. See History museums map of, 10–11 immigration, 277 Montparnasse, 12–13, 221–22, 285 Judaica, 262–63 Montsouris Park, 292 literary, 259–60 Monuments, 224–25 military, 250–51, 264–65 Arc de Triomphe, 241 money, 266–67 disabled access to, 180 natural history, 275 Eiffel Tower. See Eiffel Tower prison, 252–53 Grande Arche la Défense, La, 253–54 science, 245, 248–49 Hôtel de Ville, 249–50 sculpture, 274 Madeleine, La, 254 sewer system, 247 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 457

INDEX 457

wax, 270 Palais de la Porte Dorée—Aquarium Tropical, Museum and Monument Pass, 219 277 Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, 275 Palais de la Porte Dorée—Cité Nationale de Music l’Histoire de l’Immigration, 277 concert venues, 418–21 Palais Royal, 278 Eglise St. Eustache, 245–46 Pallais Galliera, 266 museums about, 267 Panthéon, Le, 258–59 shopping for, 401 Parc André Citroën, 290 Parc de Bagatelles, 290 Napoléon Bonaparte, tomb of, 250–51 Parc de la Villette, 290–91 Natural history museums, 275 Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, 291 Newspapers, 38–40, 166–67 , 291–92 Nightlife, 416–46 , 292 ballet, 419–20 Parc Zoologique de Vincennes, 292 bridge walks, 297–98 Paris Airports Service, 144 cinema, 166, 424 Paris Plages, 415 concert halls, 420–21 Paris Pratique, 187–88 costs of, 425–26 Paris Tourist Office, 78–79 dance, 419–20 Paris Visite, 191–93 dress recommendations for, 425 Parking, 153 gay and lesbian community, 426–27 Parks and gardens, 227. See also subjects lectures, 423–24 starting with Parc lights, 204–5, 417 Bois de Boulogne, 281–82 listings for, 418 Bois de Vincennes, 282–83 music, 419 for children, 182–83 nightclubs, 427–46 Jardin d’Acclimatation, 285, 287 nude shows, 426 Jardin des Plantes, 288 opera, 419–20 Jardin du Luxembourg, 288–89 readings, 423–24 jogging in, 405, 407 sexual behavior, 426–27 Promenade Plantée, 294 spectacles, 421–22 public squares, 292–94 taxi tours, 417–18 Tuileries, Les, 289–90 theater, 421–23 Versailles, 300–302 tickets for, 423 Viaduc des Artes, 294 types of, 416 Passages, covered, 209–10 walking tours, 417 Passports, 51–53 Noise, 84 Passy, shopping in, 386 Notre-Dame Cathedral, 242–43 Pendulum, Foucault’s, 259 Père-Lachaise Cemetery, 284–87 Obelisk, Egyptian, 293 Pets, 53, 168, 406, 408 Opéra Garnier, 276 Pharmacies, 174 Opera performances, 419–20 Phones. See Telephones Orangerie Museum, 265–66 Picasso, Pablo, museum about, 273–74 Orientation. See Arrival and orientation Pick-up services, at airports, 141–42, 144 Orly Airport, 45, 142–44 Pigalle, 223 hotels at, 71–72 , 292–93 telephone number of, 146 Place de la Bastille, 278–79 terminals of, 142–43, 148 Place de la Concorde. See Champs- transportation to/from, 142–44, 148–49 Elysées/Place de la Concorde , 293, 385 Package deals, 35–39 Place des Vosges, 293–94 Packing, 49–57 Place Vendôme, 294 clothing, 54–55 Plan and Relief Museum, 250–51 luggage for, 49–50 Poison Center, 185 passports, 51–53 Police, 185 restrictions on, 53–54 Pont de l’Alma, 297 visas, 51–53 , 296 Palais de Chaillot, 276–77 Population statistics, 16 Palais de la Découverte, 248–49 Postal service, 160–61, 163, 382 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 458

458 INDEX

Pounds, conversion tables for, 27–29 costs in, 322 Prescriptions, 174 crêperies, 315 Prices. See Costs crowding in, 322 Prison museums, 252–53 definition of, 306 Promenade Plantée, 294 disabled access to, 179–80 Prostitution, 184, 426 disputes in, 324 Public squares, 292–94 doggie bags in, 333 Public transportation. See Transportation dress for, 333 Publications ethnic, 319–20, 338–39 on children’s activities, 184 fast food, 317–18 English-language, 166–67 favorite, 333–41 on entertainment, 418 gift shops in, 401 haute cuisine, 313–16 Radios, 83 manners in, 323 Rail passes, 200 meal structure in, 329–31 Rainfall, seasonal, 34 menus in, 321–23, 326–27 RATP public transportation authority, oyster bars, 315 189–200 portion size in, 327 buses, 140, 195–98 profiles of, 241–379 hotline for, 189 ratings of, 324–26 Métro, 189–200 smoking in, 170–72, 308, 323 RER, 139–40, 147, 195–96 star classification system for, 324–26 Readings, 423–24 tea rooms (salon de thé), 316 Recreation, 405–15 telephones in, 306 boating, 409–10 time spent in, 322 cycling, 208, 412–14 tipping in, 166 equipment for, 405, 407 toilets in, 306 fishing, 409–10 types of, 304–5 golf, 414–15 vegetarian, 319–20 gym clubs, 411–12 water served in, 322 hiking, 410 wine ordering and tasting in, 328–29 horseback riding, 415 Riding, horseback, 415 jogging, 405–9 Right Bank, 9, 14, 98–99, 234–35 rollerblading, 414 Ritz Hotel, 294 running, 405–9 Rodin, August, museum about, 274 swimming, 409, 415 Roissybus, 140, 147 tennis, 410–11 Roissy/Charles de Gaulle Airport. See Religion, 16, 83–84, 175. See also Churches Charles de Gaulle Airport République. See Bastille/République Rollerblading, 414 RER (Réseau Express Régional) system, Roman era 195–96 museum for, 268–69 from airport, 139–40 Parc Astérix theme park, 303 to airport, 147 Romance, accommodations for, 93 Reservations Rue Etienne Marcel, shopping in, 385 accommodations. See Accommodations Running, 405–9 air travel. See Air travel car rental, 200–202 Sacred Heart, Basilica of the, 251–52 cinema, 424 Safety and security, 184–86 taxis to airport, 149 at banks, 164 train, 151–52, 200 drinking water, 172 Restaurants. See also separate index of St. Eustache church, 245–46 restaurant names St. Sulpice church, 246–47 asking for check, 322 Sainte-Chapelle, 279 beef safety in, 321, 328 Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 12 bills, 332–33 attractions in, 221 bistros, 314–15, 337–39 map of, 10–11 brasseries, 314–15, 337 shopping in, 385 cafés and café tabac, 307–13 School, calendars of, 30 for children, 180–81 Science museums, 245, 248–49 cooking instructions in, 327–28 Sculpture museums, 274–75 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 459

INDEX 459

Seasons for visiting, 32–35 Sorbonne, La, 254–55 Security. See Safety and security Spectacles, 421–22 River, 9, 14 Sports. See Recreation boats on, 198, 207–8 Squares, public, 292–94 bridges crossing, 294–98 Stamps, postal, 160–61 fishing in, 409–10 Street numbers, 13–14 Sewer system, 247 Street people, 194 Sexual behavior, 426–27 Subway. See Métro Shopping, 389–404 Swimming, 409, 415 alcoholic beverages, 403–4 antiques, 396–97 Tabac, 307–13 bathroom accessories, 397 Tax, VAT, refund, 149, 381–82 bookstores, 384, 398–99 Taxis, 198–200 bread, 397 at airports, 141, 144 café tables, 397–98 to airports, 148–49 cheap, 390–91 for night tours, 417–18 cheese, 398 tipping for, 166 for children, 398–99 Tea, 309, 332 chocolate, 399 Tea rooms, 316 clothing, 402, 403 Telephones, 154–58 cooking supplies, 397, 401 in accommodations, 85 cosmetics, 402–3 calling home, 155 credit cards for, 382–83 cell, 51, 158 customs regulations and, 53–54, 138, 382 faxing, 154–55, 161 department stores, 387–88 in hotel lobbies, 86 dishes, 399 instructions for, 155–58 duty-free, 383–84 with pay phone, 156–57 fabric, 396 with phone card, 155–58 for gifts, 396–404 public, 156–57 gourmet food, 318–19, 400 in restaurants, 306 hardware, 400 Television, 85–86 haute couture, discounted, 391 Temperatures, seasonal, 34 hours for, 16, 204 Tennis, 410–11 jewelry, 400 TGV train, 151 linens, 401 Theater, 421–23 lingerie, 401 Theme parks, 244, 298–300, 303 locations for, 384–86 , 268–69 in museums, 384 Tickets music, 401 cultural events, 216 mustard, 401–2 entertainment, 423 open-air markets, 391–96 Métro, 191–92 pens, 402 train, 151, 200 perfume, 402–3 Time, 16, 82 precautions in, 380–81 for eating, 305–6 restaurant items, 401 Tipping, 165–66 returns and refunds in, 383 in cafés, 308 shipping purchases home, 382 concierge, 88 specialty shops, 388–90 taxi drivers, 199–200 stationery, 403 Tobacco products. See Smoking toys, 399–400 Toilets VAT refund in, 149, 381–82 in accommodations, 82 venues for, 380 disabled access to, 177 Shuttles, airport public, 167–68 arriving, 141–42, 144 in restaurants, 306 departing, 148, 149 Tomb, Napoleon’s, 250–51 Skating, inline (rollerblade), 414 Tour(s). See also specific monuments and Skyscraper, Tour Montparnasse 56, 279–80 buildings Smoking of address where famous Americans lived, products for, 308 211 in restaurants, 170–72, 308, 323 artistic landmarks, 214–15 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 460

460 INDEX

Tour(s) (continued) car rental, 148, 149, 200–202 Belleville, 223 disabled visitor services in, 176–80 biking, 208 hotline for, 189 bridges, 294–98 limo service, 202 building facades, 216–18 Métro, 178–79, 189–95 canal, 208 pick-up services at airports, 141–42, Château de Vincennes, 244 144 Chinatown, 222–23 RER, 139–40, 147, 195–96 city, 206–7 river boat service, 198 covered arcades and passages, 209–10 taxis. See Taxis day trips, 298–300 trains. See Trains guided, 202 Travel agents, 35–39, 75–77 hours of operation, 204 Traveler’s checks, 56 itineraries for, 204–6 Trocadéro, 280 with limited available time, 204–6 Tuileries, Les, 289–90 literary landmarks, 214–15 Museum and Monument Pass for, 219 University, Sorbonne, 254–55 night, 204–5, 417–18 Pigalle, 223 VAT refund, 149, 381–82 planning for, 204–6 Vegetarian dining, 319–20 river, 207–8 Versailles, 205, 300–302 views in, 211–14 Viaduc des Artes, 294 walking, 208–11, 294–98, 417 Views, 211–14 Tour Montparnasse 56, 279–80 accommodations for, 102 Tour operators, 38–39 Tour Montparnasse 56, 279–80 Tourist Office, French Government, 46–47 Trocadéro, 280 Tower, Eiffel. See Eiffel Tower Villette Park, 290–91 Traffic Vincennes Park, 282–83 jogging and, 408 Visas, 51–53 precautions with, 188 problems with, 153–54 Walking, 188 rules of, 152–53 at night, 417–18 Trains tours, 208–11, 294–98 from airport, 195–96 Water, drinking, safety of, 172 arrival by, 149–52 Wax museums, 270 bikes on, 414 Weather, 33–35 disabled visitor services in, 177 Western Union Money Transfers, 164–65 EuroStar, 151–52 Wheelchairs, accommodations for, 176–80 high-speed, 151 Wi Fi access, at airports, 144 lockers at, 151 Wine RER, 139–40, 147, 195–96 in cafés, 310 reservations for, 151, 200 ordering and tasting, 216, 328–29 stations of, 149–50, 201 shopping for, 403–4 subway. See Métro Worship, houses of, 16, 83–84, 175. See also tickets for, 151, 200 Churches Transportation, 189–200 air. See Air travel; Airports Zadkine, Ossip, museum about, 274–75 to/from airports, 139–42, 146–49 Zones. See Arrondissements buses. See Buses Zoos, 288, 292 15_Paris5e.Index.qxd 11/28/07 7:16 PM Page 461

Unofficial Guide Reader Survey

If you would like to express your opinion in writing about Paris or this guidebook, complete the following survey and mail it to: Unofficial Guide Reader Survey P.O. Box 43673 Birmingham, AL 35243 Inclusive dates of your visit: Members of your party: Person 1 Person 2 Person 3 Person 4 Person 5 Gender: M F M F M F M F M F Age: How many times have you been to Paris? On your most recent trip, where did you stay? Concerning your accommodations, on a scale of 100 as best and 0 as worst, how would you rate: The quality of your room? The value of your room? The quietness of your room? Check-in/check-out efficiency? Shuttle service to the airport? Swimming pool facilities? Did you rent a car? From whom? Concerning your rental car, on a scale of 100 as best and 0 as worst, how would you rate: Pick-up processing efficiency? Return processing efficiency? Condition of the car? Cleanliness of the car? Airport shuttle efficiency? Concerning your dining experiences: Estimate your meals in restaurants per day? Approximately how much did your party spend on meals per day?

Favorite restaurants in Paris:

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Unofficial Guide Reader Survey (continued)

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