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Download Article Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 310 3rd International Conference on Culture, Education and Economic Development of Modern Society (ICCESE 2019) Important Academic Achievements in the Research on Chinese Traditional Women's Wear Comment on "Culture and Crafts of the Three Major Fisher Girl Costumes in Fujian"* Bo'er Xie Xiamen Academy of Arts and Design Fuzhou University Xiamen, China 361021 Abstract—Professor Lu Xinyan's book "Culture and Crafts Among them, Hui'an women's costume is listed in the first of the three Fisher Girl costumes in Fujian" is an important batch of national intangible cultural heritage, and Xun Pu academic achievement in the research on traditional Chinese women's costume is ranked in the second batch. The book women's wear. This book, based on marine culture, with “Culture and Crafts of the three major Fisher Girl costumes history as the main axis, contains a comprehensive study of the in Fujian” published by China Textile & Apparel Press in three major fisher girl costumes. It has diverse significance to June 2014 as the result of the seven Intangible Cultural the study of Chinese traditional women's wear and the Heritage Research and Protection Fund Project of Center for research and protection of intangible cultural heritage. Arts and Sciences in Tsinghua University. (See "Fig. 1") The author Lu Xinyan has obtaining a large amount of first-hand Keywords—Fujian fisher girl costumes; intangible cultural heritage; marine culture information through field survey for many years, and made systematic combing and summary of the style, characteristics and crafts of the three major fisher girl costumes, which has I. INTRODUCTION active promoting effect in many aspects of the inheritance With the continuous improvement of the social economy and development of traditional Chinese women's wear in the and culture, people are paying more and more attention to future. It is an important academic achievement in the study the protection and development of "intangible cultural on traditional Chinese women's wear. heritage" when vigorously developing economic After carefully reading the work of more than 200,000 construction. In recent years, the national government and words, the author has the thoughts in the following aspects. the private sector have invested a lot of energy and funds to include various traditional practices, performances, handicrafts, and cultural sites in different levels of II. ABOUT THE INFORMATION inheritance protection. "Academic research is not an invention, but a search for truth. For the pursuit of truth, we must respect the facts, be objective and fair with the scientific spirit and attitude. Pursuing truth in academy, pursuing kindness in character, pursuing beauty in art, moving from science to art, and from art to academics is a process of climbing academic highs." Professor Lu Xinyan wrote this book in such spirit and philosophy. This work takes the three major fisher girl costumes of Hui'an women in Hui'an County on the southeast coast of Fujian, the Xun Pu women of Xun Pu Village in Quanzhou and the Meizhou women from Weizhou Island as the object to systematically comb and summarize its historical development, cultural connotation, style appearance and technological methods through the combination of Fig. 1. Cover of the work. archaeology, literature and physical investigation. Fujian has three major fisher girl costumes: Hui'an After consulting, there are a few studies on the traditional women, Xun Pu women and Meizhou women's clothing. costume culture of the three major fisher girls in the existing literature, and there is few related to their production *Fund Project: National Social Science Fund Art Project (2015FG04022). techniques. Among the few publications, Fengwu Hui'an: CLC number: TS 941.7 Document code: A Hui'an women's costume published by Haichao Photography Copyright © 2019, the Authors. Published by Atlantis Press. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/). 295 Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 310 Art Publishing House in August 2003, written by Quanzhou introductions, it is supplemented by a large number of Huidong Women's Apparel Research Group is a pictures. According to preliminary statistics, the book uses representative one. The author of this book studies the color, nearly 800 examples, most of which are taken by the author artistic image, pattern and inheritance of Huidong women's himself. The fisher girl's costumes are pretty in color and clothing from the perspective of art, which fills the gap of rich in pattern. Subject to conditions, the intelligent fisher current Huidong folk culture research. However, most of girls use natural plant dyes to dye the soil cloth, making it them are introductory texts, and there is less data on textual show a special maroon color. With large color blocks such as research. The "Culture and Crafts of the three major Fisher black and blue, it is stable and interesting. [1] In terms of Girl costumes in Fujian" uses marine culture as the main line details, the pattern of red, yellow, green, white and other of three different fisher girl's costumes running through them colors is decorated as a bright spot, which is called a and lists their respective cultures and characteristics. beautiful landscape on the fisher girls' costumes. The Through field investigations conducted by the research team contents of the pattern are all-encompassing. There are personally led by the author for many years, they take flowers, insects, marine fish and shrimps that express respect pictures, draw pictures, and find traditional craftsmen to for nature as well as ordinary but interesting records of life, obtain a large amount of first-hand information, trying to such as fishing scenes and costume figures. The composition restore their production process to the greatest extent, and is beautiful and the form is easy and varied. The types of explain the history, culture and customs, and production pictures are very diverse, and they are displayed from techniques of the three major fisher girl costumes. These laid various angles. There are pictures, physical maps, costume a solid foundation for the reliability and persuasiveness of structure drawings, style drawings, and process flow charts the content of the book. of clothing and hairstyles displayed by real people. With text descriptions, it is lively and interesting, and it also more In the field investigation, it was found that the intuitive for the reader to read. What is more valuable is that craftsmanship of the fisher girl costumes was mostly passed these pictures are mostly taken by the author in person, down by family. Most craftsmen are old, living in fishing which greatly improves the reliability and reference of the villages with inconvenient transportation. The younger data foundation of the book. generation of the family mostly went out for living, without realizing the importance of traditional handicrafts, and the urgency of inheritance, so they were not willing to learn and B. Costume Culture and Dual Perspective inherit, leading to the loss of skills. Traditional handicrafts The picture costume and the culture are inseparable. Each are often passed down by family and master, and the existing of the characteristics of the three fisher girl costumes maps texts and pictures are scarce. The skilled craftsmen, limited their respective cultural backgrounds. The hairpin hairstyle by the cultural level, can't express clearly, resulting in the of Xun Pu women is a typical example (See "Fig. 2"). In Xun difficulty in communication, and most of them can only Pu, women using "spiral bun" method to wear hair can be speak local dialects, which greatly increases the difficulty of seen everywhere. They use ivory chopsticks to fix the hair, research. With the help of leaders and experts of relevant and decorate it with flowers. For the above phenomenon, the local department, the author of the book translated and author made several speculations: imitating the wear of Yang commented the dialect, which laid a solid foundation for Bajie in the Song Dynasty; influenced by the dress of Arab subsequent field research and had extremely high literature women due to the frequent port trade in the Song and Yuan value and credibility. For example, “„Jinzai‟ is the household Dynasties; when the officers and men suppressed them, the headwear of a married woman, of which the basic form is Xun Pu women fixed their bun in a panic with hard branches. similar to a big bun.” Such expressions as "Zhuizai" and Later, they improved it to ivory chopsticks or plastic "Jinzai" are close to the local dialect. The most chopsticks; the custom of "hairpin" has been traced from the commendable thing is that the production process of these Han Dynasty. On this basis, the author also made a few exquisite traditional costumes that are on the verge of loss speculations: (1) is it related to the love for bustle of are recorded in a multi-dimensional way through hand- southern Fujian so that they think the lush is beautiful? painting, videography and photography. On this basis, the People in Southern Fujian like bustle by nature, and they like author of the book has repeatedly visited libraries, museums, playing finger guessing game and rolling a dice on the wine folk museums, etc., and consulted relevant experts. table in leisure time. Because of the ancestral idea, Combining with existing literature and history materials, he "welcoming the ancestors" and "passing the furnace" is also finally formed the data base of the work, which provides a the manifestation of the love for bustle of the people in reliable basis for the study of traditional costume culture in southern Fujian. The headwear with rich multicolored the future.
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