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ROADS To Adventure Air Highways Magazine  THE ALASKA HIGHWAY: A MARVEL OF WORLD WAR II ENGINEERING

near Anchorage. Inland, a 500-mile There’s a land where the mountains are nameless connection existed via rail and dirt And the rivers all run, god knows where. road, from Edmonton to the staging There are lives that are erring and aimless point at Dawson Creek, BC. Mere dots on the map soon became fever- And deaths that just hang by a hair. ish anthills of activity, as mountains There are hardships that nobody reckons of supplies and acres of equipment There are valleys unpeopled and still were stockpiled along the way. The There’s a land, how it beckons and beckons fleet of paddle wheelers that plied the Yukon since the Gold Rush of the And I want to go back, and I will. 1890s was pressed into service, since Robert W. Service there were no real roads connecting the territory’s main communities. Imagine you are a time traveler. greatest construction project since Brutal Climate: Reconnaissance, lo- the Panama Canal began as a marvel The year is 1942. The month is cation work and a massive construc- of mobility at the time. U.S. Authori- tion effort began simultaneously. By February - and our whole world ties combed the entire coast, seeking float plane, military aircraft, on foot, is gripped by total war. For the available water transportation, creat- by pack horse, cat-train or dog sled moment, Axis forces hold the ing a patchwork flotilla of yachts, - they traversed hundreds of miles initiative, and for weeks follow- cargo vessels, tugs fish boats and in a few frantic months - up around, ing the Pearl Harbor disaster, barges.This story is from the opening through and over some of the world’s of a half hour commemorative video, every ship leaving North Amer- toughest terrain. The climate was written by Jerry W. Bird for the Ca- brutal as anywhere on the globe. Els- ica’s Pacific ports is threatened. nadian Government as a salute to the don Gladwin, first Canadian Army ’s directive is Alaska Highway’s 50th Anniversary. officer to drive the Pioneer Road clear: Furnish a supply route Land and sea bridge described it to me. to the network of northern The Alaska Highway was also a “Those U.S. troops - I felt sorry airfields - an overland route massive sea-bridge, spanning the for them to begin with - then was coastal fjords of the Inside Passage to supplement our air and sea amazed at what they did. If you to historic Skagway, then over the weren’t there, you just couldn’t lanes; one secure from attack.” White Pass by narrow-gauge rail- understand it. I saw fellows so tired, Approval comes swiftly, and way to Whitehorse on the Yukon they were ready to drop in their the task begins, with River, or up-coast to Valdez, Alaska, tracks. It was rush-rush- end points set up by rush! Fellows were doing the military at Dawson 18 to 20 hours a day on Creek, BC. and Big bulldozers. One was up to his neck in ice wa- Delta, Alaska. Over- ter repairing timbers in night, the entire North subzero weather. God, mobilizes, as the rug- I admired them! Most ged Trail of ‘42 rivals were southerners - they’d the famous Trail of ‘98 never experienced cold in worldwide focus. like that. And in the sum- Those of us living in the mer, it was mosquitoes Yukon at the time felt - like they’d eat you right suddenly in the forefront there, or pack you away of the action. What some to eat at home.” called North America’s  Air Highways Magazine THE ALASKA HIGHWAY: A MARVEL OF WORLD WAR II ENGINEERING

dation for today’s Air Highway to the Pacific as envisioned by Grant MacConachie, and early bush pilot from Edmon- ton, who later founded Canadian Pacific Airlines. Many airport locations, such as Dawson Creek , Fort St. John and White- horse were mere dots on the map at the time. All of them are profiled in Air Highways Magazine. As a guide to the area’s attractions, the Air High- ways Supermap traces all routes by land, sea and air. This includes the Overland and Marine Highways to Alaska, the Cassiar, Klondike, Dempster and Mackenzie. Connecting airline routes In spite of muskeg, mountains and Columbia, Yukon and Alaska. Thou- and ferry routes are also permafrost, the pace continued un- sands of veterans, both army and included. abated. It was a partnership between civilian workers who participated in Construction army and civilian contractors of an building the “Trail of 42” plus others unsurpassed scale -leading to the involved in upgrading the highway to BACKGROUND final breakthrough at Beaver Creek, its present status, joined the reunion. Proposals for a highway to Alaska near the Yukon-Alaska border. A This world scale project helped originated in the 1920s. Donald formal ceremony at Soldiers Summit create a vast air bridge to Russian MacDonald dreamed of an interna- by Kluane Lake marked the event. Siberia and the Orient - the foun- tional highway spanning the United The move by FDR earlier that year States, Canada and Russia. In order proved to be more than an eleventh to promote the highway, Slim hour decision. By December of ‘42, Williams originally travelled the as convoys rolled up and down the proposed route by dog sled. Since Pioneer Road, forces of the Japa- much of the route would pass nese Empire were already dug in on through Canada, support from the Alaska soil, preparing for the assault Canadian government was crucial. we all expected. However, the Canadian govern- The preceding is from a half-hour ment perceived no value in putting documentary video, “Alaska High- up the required funds to build the way - the First 50 year,” written by road, since the only part of Canada Editor Jerry W. Bird for the Alaska that would benefit was not more Highway’s 50th Anniversary. This than a few thousand people in the historic event was celebrated along Yukon. the entire route, through British

Air Highways Magazine  THE TRANS CANADA YELLOWHEAD HIGHWAY: MANITOBA TO PACIFIC

“Come out O Little Mocassins and frolic on the snow Come out O tiny beaded feet and twinkle in the light I’ll play the old Red River reel, you used to love it so, Awake, O Little Mocassins and dance for me tonight.” Robert W. Service

I am the Yellowhead ... by Jerry W. Bird

My vast domain spans half of Canada, the world’s second largest country, with ports facing three great oceans. I follow the trails of natives and voyageurs westward from Lake Winnipeg and the forks of the country a little “behind Mighty Fraser and Skeena Rivers. Canada’s Historic Route. To begin of three historic rivers to the the times “ ... a popular Sas- katchewan Tourism poster says, your journey down my pathway to misty *Haida Gwa’ii, where pleasure, imagine your auto or RV is meets the “Count yourself lucky. You’ve a time-capsule, as you cruise along North Pacific. Near majes- discovered the true Canada.” this broad ribbon of Canadiana, in tic , Canada’s Where to start? the wake of nomadic hunters, voya- Get a copy of my official Road Map, highest peak, my second geurs, missionaries, traders, sod- or a reasonable facsimile? Stretch it busters, fortune-seekers and railroad branch meanders south via out on the table or across the hood or builders. Before we dim the lights Kamloops to Hope, gateway your vehicle. Glancing from east to and start the movie, you’re curious to the Fraser Valley. Crossing west, you’ll see that my eastern ter- to know how the name Yellowhead me is a journey into history, minus is Winnipeg, Manitoba at the was derived -- right? In the 1870s, a with Indian encampments foot of two large lakes. Tracing my roving Iroquois Metis guide, dubbed path westward, I parallel the North older than Egypt’s great Tete Jaune for his golden locks, gave Saskatchewan River to Edmonton, title to a mountain pass near Jasper pyramids, pristine national and follow the Athabaska River House, and gained instant immor- and provincial parks, ancient into , Canada’s tality. Fly-Drive Holidays are all shrines and battle sites. Eth- Rocky Mountain playground. Further the rage, in an age when time has nic dances and pageants sa- west near Mount Robson, I give mo- become more valuable than money. lute every facet of Canada’s torists the option of heading directly You can fly the “Air Highways” to west via Prince George, or south via heritage, and if you love the dozens of gateway airports from Kamloops to the town of Hope at the east to west, then take your pick of magic of serendipity, a new entrance to the Fraser Valley and port ground transport, be it an automo- surprise awaits around each of Vancouver. On these segments bile, van or RV rental or Via Rail bend. If you find some parts I follow the North Thompson, the Canada’s Yellowhead- Skeena Route

 Air Highways Magazine THE TRANS CANADA YELLOWHEAD HIGHWAY: MANITOBA TO PACIFIC

ston Churchill spoke of Canadi- Yellowhead Highway as we know it to Prince Rupert. ans, “There are no limits to the today. majestic future which lies before Beginning at the Forks, this trail A Taste of Canada. I appeal to nature the mighty expanse of Canada, was, for more than fifty years, the lovers and adventurous souls with with its virile, aspiring, cultured main artery of all the trails into the a taste for the finer things. So, get and generous-hearted people.” West. Historically speaking, the out the fishing rod, thermos jug and A Picture Perfect Tour Trans Canada Yellowhead Highway picnic basket! This great drive might My territory embracing the best of is the way of the pioneers. One of the easily be called a Great Canadian four great provinces is a Bonanza World’s Greatest Drives. Taste Tour. Why? -- the Yellowhead for photo lovers, be they shutter- It provides access to five National crosses and parallels famous rivers bugs or professionals. On dis- Parks, three National Historic Sites, and nameless streams, skirts many covering so many amazing photo and more than ninety Provincial lakes great and small, visits orchards, ops - birds and wildlife, cultural Parks. No wonder the Trans Canada ranches, farmers markets and unique treasures, glories of nature - big Yellowhead is known as the “Park to dining spots. You can feast on Win- city activities - small town events Park Highway” nipeg Goldeye, rainbow trout, Pacific -one could easily add a day or two The Trans Canada Yellowhead boasts salmon, Alaska king crab, oysters, to their travel agenda. Lucky you!. excellent year-round road conditions, mussels and clams, prairie chicken, What People Say About Yellow- hundreds of kilometers of four-lane moose steak, buffalo burgers, award- head highway with wide shoulders and winning beef and Okanagan “The way of yesterday’s fur trad- gentle mountain grades and con- wines. Add the world’s finest cereal ers has become the way of today’s tours. So it’s easy to enjoy the drive, grains and 1001 varieties of ethnic smart travellers; no other route of- especially since the Yellowhead is fare -- how near to heaven can you fers so many national and provin- the only highway the travels between get? And if you like to sing on long cial parks .” the mountains instead of over them. car trips, there’s always a cin- Manitoba Section That means lower fuel bills, less ve- emascopic backdrop to enhance the A number of trails are remem- hicle wear and tear, and spectacular performance; prairie skies, tumble- bered in Canada’s history books. scenery weed, moose pastures, rippling wa- The greatest of them all, the old Of the five passes through the Rock- terfalls and pristine mountain lakes. Northwest Trail extending from ies, the is by far the Can’t you hear Rose Marie’s “Indian Fort Garry to Edmonton Trail, and most gentle. Love Call” echoing in the distance? the Hudson’s Bay Trail. An Expanding Panorama. To those When the great buffalo hunt OF Continued who cherish folklore and love to col- 1840 was organized, no less than lect anecdotes of Canadian history, a 1,210 Red River carts took the trip along my ribbon of asphalt is a trail west from Fort Garry onto veritable feast. Each native or ethnic the southwest plains. It was truly village, national park and historic the beginning of the Trans Canada site along my path tells its own story, of an event, place or special person who left his or her mark. All contributed to the fabric of Canada, Often it is the foreigners who see the treasure most clearly. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of Sherlock Holmes compared Canada to an expanding flower; “Wherever you look you see some fresh petal unfolding.” Sir Win-

Air Highways Magazine  memorable times in the Portage la Prairie area, while stationed at Royal Canadian Air Force Base Macdonald, a few miles from the city. I will never forget the glorious sum- mers at the lake and the electrical storms which filled the entire sky on Lower Fort Garry Cuba short notice. National Historic Site Europe: London, UK / Frankfurt, The Southport airbase, even closer North America’s oldest stone fur Germany to Portage, is still thriving with a trading post stands as a lone sen- Mexico: Acapulco,/ Cancun/ Co- variety of new commercial services. tinel on the Red River. Launch zumel/ Ixtapa/ Manzanillo/ \a I get an update on Southport every Exploring Manitoba: point for York Boat brigades, off few years when we participate in the to Hudson’s Bay, Mackenzie or At Minnedosa, voted Manitoba’s North American Aerospace Show. Athabaska Country, and Red River most beautiful town, a side trip Since our magazine just started pro- carts bound for Minnesota, it was leads to Riding Mountain National filing the many communities, attrac- a bastion of Empire. Plan to stay Park. In this “island of the prai- tions and historical locations along awhile - fresh bread’s baking in the ries”, buffalo roam and 500 spe- the Yellowhead Trans Canada High- stone oven at Governor Simpson’s cies of wildlife thrive. Remember way this summer, prior to our fall Big House - dinner’s on, and a when we were kids, wolves used trip, it may take a few weeks to com- magic lantern show is about to tell to whistle -- right? Well you can plete this page. However, you can the fort’s unique story. take wolf howling lessons here, expect the entire section to expand in It’s a short drive to Portage La but the Plains Indians’ relationship size quickly. Jerry W. Bird, Editor Prairie, Mile “0” on the Yellow- with the buffalo is the top item head Highway. Here, muscles of on the agenda. Bathers can enjoy Yorkton: Gateway to steel were needed to tote one’s Clear Lake’s sandy beach; those Saskatchewan and Riding canoe overland. Today, Portage is afoot and on horseback, can rove Mountain National Park a major food processing center, the meadows, aspen groves and Associate Editor Muguette Goufrani amidst some of the world’s richest evergreen forests on a network and I had the pleasure of meeting farmland. Lake Manitoba’s beaches of trails. Steeped in the history of with Yorkton’s amiable Mayor Phil bring fond memories from my air hearty voyageurs and European De Vos at the Yellowhead Trans force days. Macdonald Air force culture, Winnipeg’s sleek skyline Canada Highways Association’s 56th base, near Portage, was my hub of welcomes you to a landscape Convention in Sherwood Park, near activities for several years as an where massive herds of buffalo Edmonton Alberta, and plan a visit RCAF weatherman --it was a fas- once roamed across the Prairies. to Yorkton and area during our mid For information, contact: cinating area. I met a group from September road show. That marathon Tourism Winnipeg, 279 Portage Av- Southport at the Abbotsford Air- event will span the entire Yellowhead show and was pleased to learn that enue, Winnipeg, Manitoba R3B 2B4 Ph: 204-943-1970, 1-800-665-0204 Trans Canada Highway System, and the city’s other base is alive and continues eastward to Atlantic City, thriving as a training and techni- (Toll-free in North America) Fax: 204-942-4043 USA, where we’re presenting West- cal center. You’ll hear much more [email protected] MB.Ca ern Canada at a major travel industry about their projects in a future is- Winnipeg International Airshow conference. sue of Air Highways Magazine. please call for times What fond memories, sights and \lis, Minnesota/ Chicago, Illinois 74 Shamrock Drive, Winnipeg, Mani- sounds are in store? Many are play- Charter Destinations toba ing in the theatre of my mind, as Canada: Victoria, British Columbia Portage la Prairie it’s the same route I took in my Caribbean: Montego Bay, Jamaica/ Producing this particular profile Chev coupe, upon leaving the Royal Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic will be a pleasant and enjoy- Canadian Air Force for the world of San Jose, Costa Rica / Varadero, able task, since I spent some media. We’ll be telling the story of  Air Highways Magazine Yorkton from the visitor’s perspec- Provincail Parks at Duck Mountain, Edmonton: City of Big tive, enhancing the road maps, visit- Greenwater Lake and Good Spirit Shoulders: ing the local airport for fly-in tour- Lake How can one help but love a city ism possibilities and adding more that jump-started his career. For me links and data. For now, here are Alberta- BC Section it all began at the Edmonton Journal, some contact names and brief notes Yes Virginia, there is a Lloydminster, one of Canada’s great newspapers. of interest. There’s much more on Sask, and a Lloydminster, Alberta No place I know has such energy, Yorkton’s web site (listed below). living peacefully, side by side. That or capacity to seize the moment. Provincial Parks Map causes a kaffuffle when daylight Edmontonians have always been a Tourism Attractions saving time rolls around. The town’s cocky lot, from their sports dynasties Western Develpment Museum Antique Museum honors England’s and oil czars, to politics. Even the Ravine Ecological Preserve Barr Colonists, and when later on, location is cocky -- perched regally St. Mary’s Ukrainian Catholic you see an onion-shaped dome or on the North Saskatchewan cliffs; its Church giant Easter egg on the horizon, Upper Level bridge reaching from Three 18-hole Golf Courses you know you’re in Little Ukraine. Alberta’s Legislature to the Universi- Jaycee Beach Vegreville is home of the Ukrainian ty area. And who else has the audac- Godfrey Dean Cultural Centre Pysanka Festival, with its fly-in ity to build a shopping Mecca that Crafts: Prairie Rim Gallery and Ava- breakfast and 3 solid days of food rates seven mentions in the Guinness lon Studio and fun. Book of World Records? Speaking Painted Hand Casino At , a of highs and lows, Edmonton’s river Yorkton Exhibition thatched-roof dacha houses the valley, from Old Fort Edmonton to Area Attractions Ukrainian Folk Museum. There’s the Conservatory and beyond, is a National Doukhobour Heritage a fenced preserve, where over 400 tourist destination all by itself; golf Village buffalo roam, sharing the rolling hills courses and picnic spots. and meadows Get out and stretch your legs; this with moose, is the largest greenbelt of any major mule and Canadian city. Edmonton as a boom- elk. Poplar, town? -- its archives tell of fur trad- spruce, aspen ers, riverboats, a Klondike boom, a and birch line railway boom, a land rush, and black a network of gold that blew things sky high in ‘47. hiking trails, Legendary bush pilots, who opened and the lakes up the North live again at Canada’s and sloughs Aviation Hall of Fame. teem with wa- By the way, if you love to shop, or terfowl. Sandy hanker for genuine Alberta Prime Beach recre- Rib -- there’s no provincial tax. And ation area has if I recall the jingle, “Your credit a 9-hole golf is fine with Irving Kline.” Beyond course. Alber- the outskirts is Lake Wabamun (try ta’s emblem saying that with your mouth full), came from the a popular camping spot. Edson and wild roses, Hinton are major stops en route to which grew in Jasper National Park. this area along Rocky Mountain House National the old Victoria Historic Park (side trip) Trail. Poetry: Talk about thriving on competition; Little Mocas- the first Rocky Mountain House was sins by Robert raised in 1799. Weeks later, a distant W. Service relative, James Bird, helped HBC erect a rival fort. Explorer David Thompson trekked to the Columbia Air Highways Magazine  River from here in 1807, and for ser-Nechako junction. The first BC. bor was alive with canneries, fishing generations Rocky was the North- community on our great Yellowhead fleets, coastal ferries, deep-sea ships, west’s richest fur-producing area. drive is McBride, in the beautiful and a huge grain elevator. Today, you The series of forts that stood on these Robson Valley. can take the world’s second steepest hallowed grounds are remembered Prince George gondola ride, enjoy an archeologi- by two stone chimneys. Other exhib- is a gateway to paradise for wilder- cal boat tour, or board BC Ferries’ its include a York boat, Red River ness adventurers. Former Mayor Queen of the North for a 15-hour cart and fur press. John Backhouse beamed with pride cruise to Port Hardy on Vancouver Jasper National Park when I mentioned The University of Island. The Museum of Northern BC I first experienced this Rocky Moun- Northern BC., the city’s newest new- has totem pole carving on site, and tain playground by train, sprinting est prize. While tourism is booming, 10,000 year old works of art. Out- off for souvenirs during a station PG’s economy is forest industry- door activity abounds in some of the stop. Ever since it’s always been on based. Centrally located, it’s a key wildest country on the continent. wheels. By car you can seize the mo- junction for BC Rail’s Cariboo Line Canada’s Galapagos: So you think ment, cooling off under a waterfall, and Via’s Skeena Run. you’ve conquered the Yellowhead, standing bug-eyed at a viewpoint, At Vanderhoof, a side trip leads to right? ..Wrong!--- there’s still a short or catching every photo op. Allow Fort St. James, founded by Simon trip by sea to the Haida Gwa’ii, our at least an extra day for this Rocky Fraser, the explorer in 1806. At Fort Western Mile “0.” From ..Prince Mountain high. Why? --Jasper Park St. James National Historic Site, Rupert your voyage to the “Misty Lodge, , Punchbowl B.C.’s oldest inhabited community Islands” is a salty experience. These Falls, Pyramid Lake, Henry House, salutes its fur trading past. History fog-..shrouded waters of the Haida Jasper Lake, Skyline Trail and Poca- lives on at this authentic Hudson’s Gwa’ii or Queen Charlotte Archipel- hontas for starters. My choices are Bay Trading Post, with furs, trade ago teem with finny ..fare -- salmon, Miette Hot Springs -- hottest water in goods, and staff in 1890s attire. One herring, halibut, rockfish, mussels, the , and Maligne of the west’s oldest fur warehouses, crab, starfish, sea urchin, octopus. Lake, a portrait of serenity. a clerk’s residence and a fish cache Armadas of Gray, Humpback and Our first lodging was a war surplus remain. Killer Whales skip along the surface. tent; the most recent was at Jas- From Vanderhoof to beyond Smith- Seabirds abound, and near Cape per Park Lodge, where the waiter ers, it’s lake country -- Fraser, Burns St. James, sea lions romp and play. brought dinner by bicycle. Near the , Babine, Rose, Bulkley, Kathlyn and Isolation from the mainland has mouth of Rocky River, a cairn marks Tyhee Lake to name a few. Smith- given rise to a unique subspecies of National Historic Site, ers, in the heart of the fertile Bulkley wildlife. Gwa’ii Haanas National where a supply post was built by the Valley has taken on an Alpine theme, Park Preserve is also called South Northwest Company in 1813. The and Hazelton on the Upper Skeena is Moresby. Since the park has no roads park is a wildlife sanctuary, where “Totem Pole Capital of the World.” or facilities, visitors must be self suf- deer and antelope play, bighorn At K’san Village, tribal houses ficient. Anthony Island’s abandoned guard the peaks, and bears are every- feature paintings, screens and carved village, , is a UN World where. Allow at least an extra day in interior poles, and dancers perform Heritage site. There are over 500 the Jasper area , and enjoy a Rocky Indian rituals. Historic sites dot this archeological and historical Haida Mountain high you’ll never forget. heartland of the Tsmishian, Kitsum- sites. British Columbia kalum and Gitskan, where Emily Now you’ve earned bragging rights: Mount Robson Carr made many of her sketches. We hope your pictures turn out great, Heading westward, you approach Beyond Terrace, the Skeena, called especially the wildlife scenes (nudge, the Continental Divide and Mount River of Mists by the Gitskan, wid- nudge). As the sun sets on the Haida Robson Provincial Park, home of the ens into a broad lake, meeting the Gwa’ii, and your kayak rocks gently tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Pacific at Port Edwards, site of the on the tide, we’ll turn off today’s Near Tete Jaune Cache and Valley 1889 North Pacific Cannery movie and bid good-bye. If you take of a Thousand Falls, the Yellow- Prince Rupert the trip, send us a postcard. We’re head develops a split personality; I first saw Prince Rupert from the sure you’ll savor every moment one branch swings south along the deck of The Princess Louise, a CPR -- and are likely to plan many happy North Thompson and Skeena; the ship that plied the Inside Passage to returns! other ambles westward to the Fra- Alaska, just 64 km upcoast. The har- Check our Air Highway Supermap:  Air Highways Magazine Why not consider a ferry trip to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and back to the mainland via Victoria or Nanaimo? Contact Yellowhead Highway Association, Edmonton: 403 426 5078, or the Canoe Network (705)-647-207

Air Highways Magazine  GREAT DRIVES: THE LAND OF HOT SPRINGS & FREEZING GLACIERS

Kootenays is Cranbrook, located in a mountain- ous region where ranges and valleys run north to south. This geographic event affects the course of rivers and human de- velopment. The city has been a major rail center since the opening of the Crow’s Nest pass, and is home of the Canadian Museum of Rail Travel. Cranbrook is the largest community in the south- east corner of the prov- ince and acts as a major service center for the region. The city is close to several skiing areas. In Hot Springs Heaven Divide are so enticing, you’ll summer, those opportu- by Jerry W. Bird want to stop the car right there nities turn to hiking, fishing, climb- ing and camping as the surrounding and take the plunge. The eternal icefields wear a mountains provide all the wilderness East Kootenays and Colum- and scenic beauty imaginable. Its “necklace of thermal springs”, bia Valley to Golden, Banff primary industries include forestry fed from water trapped in fis- and Jasper. : You can relax and mining. sures and caverns deep in the at one of the local hot spring Cranbrook Airport is the gateway roots of the Rockies. Raging resort locations, such as Fair- to the East Kootenay tourist region and is served by both Canadian rivers, glutted by the seasonal mont Hot Springs, which has runoff, churn and boil like some Regional Airlines and AirBC, with four pools with an average daily scheduled flights to Kamloops, concoction from a giant soda temperature of 40 degrees Vancouver and Calgary. The airport fountain. Oh the joys of steamy, Celsius or Radium Hot Springs, also houses Horizon Air, offering bubbly-hot, sulfur-scented with two springs averaging 35 charter services and flight training waters; Solus Par Aqua (health degrees, both north of Cran- and Mountain High Helicopters, providing charter services for both by water) to the Romans; a brook on Highway 95. Nearby sacred rite to Canada’s native business and pleasure travellers. and hottest of all is Lussier Hot Though less than 30 years old, the peoples, and Shangri-La to we Springs near Canal Flats, whose airport is nevertheless an essential hot springs fanatics. Speaking waters hit a healthy 44 degrees. part of the community, responsible of natural spas, the Kootenays .Map of river and area below for generating around $40 million for have them in spades; Ain- shows access via airports and the regional economy annually and sworth, Halycon, Nakusp, Ram sustaining several hundred jobs. One highways.. of the regions latest preoccupation Creek and Wild Horse. Many of Cranbrook is in the area of golf course develop- these natural spas along the Co- (See latest Airport Plan) The hub ment. There are now ten 18-hole and lumbia Valley and Continental city of British Columbia’s East 10 Air Highways Magazine GREAT DRIVES: THE LAND OF HOT SPRINGS & FREEZING GLACIERS

a variety of 9-hole courses with an where you can also hear the sounds of ing the air! With ski runs almost average distance between them of the world’s largest cuckoo clock. on the main drag, we found ample Fort Steele only 35 k, so several can be played apres ski time to quaff frosty steins in a few days. Destinations to note Sam Steele of the Scarlet and Gold of German lager, gnosh on schnitzel, are Kimberley, Radium and Fairmont was a family icon. His saga of hero- and sing along to an oom-pah-pah Hot Springs, each of which has two ism and grit prompted my father, Don band. On the Platzl, accordionists courses as well as awe-inspiring Bird, to leave his Seattle home, enlist stroll, midst a scene of gingerbread, scenery. in the Royal Canadian Mounted Police gushing fountains, sidewalk cafes A Rocky Mountain High and seek a Klondike posting. Shortly and footbridges. Happy Hans, who A city of some 18.000 friendly after arriving in Dawson City, a local dwells inside the world’s largest people, Cranbrook is the largest beauty crossed Dad’s path, and the cuckoo clock, pops out to yodel on community in the southeast corner rest is history. While Commander cue. Stop and smell the flowers at of the province and acts as a major Steele roved the entire west during a Cominco Gardens, or hop aboard the service centre for the region. Its own long and legendary career, his name Bavarian Mining Railway. primary industries include forestry remains at an historic site, near Cran- The Spirit Trail: and mining while the region boasts a brook. An 1860s vintage mining town Four mineral pools tumble down healthy tourism industry. Cranbrook in the East Kootenays, Fort Steele tops the hillside into the Lussier river is located in a picturesque, mountain- any movie set for authenticity. Behind at Whiteswan Hot Springs, near ous region where ranges and valleys its walls is a steam railway, a working a lake of the same name. Many run north and south, guiding the blacksmith shop, heritage homes, ho- First Nations people made pilgrim- course of rivers and human devel- tels, a newspaper and police barracks. ages to these sacred waters via the opment. In summer, golf, hiking, Actors at The Wildhorse Theater and Spirit Trail. At Canal Flats, your map fishing, hunting and climbing are Music Hall relive the glory days when shows two mighty rivers flowing popular pursuits while, in winter, mining was a big time operation. side-by-side. Great lovers in Indian skiing in the surrounding mountains When the CPR went South -- so did folklore, the Columbia and Koote- provide panoramic vistas and chal- the town’s fortunes. nay Rivers were pledged to remain Kimberley: Cuckoos, Ginger- lenging runs. apart until completing their separate bread and Lederhosen: Those interested in historical sights journeys. will enjoy the award-winning Ca- Ach der leiber! -- did you know that To the K’tunaxa peoples, Colum- nadian Museum of Rail Travel and Kimberley is known as Little Bavaria, bia Lake’s shores were a Garden the turn of the century Fort Steele and is Canada’s highest city. Small of Eden, where the Creator placed Heritage Town, a “living history” wonder -- you can get high just breath- his first people. Today, it’s the site town where over 60 of Fairmont Hot homes and buildings Springs, which have been restored boasts Canada’s or reconstructed to largest natu- evoke the turn of ral hot pools, a the century. Then lodge, and two there’s Kimberley, golf courses. The north of Cranbrook original native on Highway 95A, bath house is where you could open to visitors imagine yourself in at no charge. Bavaria. Outdoor Beyond Inver- oompah bands play mere and Lake in “Der Platzl”- the Windermere, the central square- road forks; route

Air Highways Magazine 11 95 heading north via The Bugaboos west flow to the Pacific. one can cruise the Trans Canada via Banff to Jasper on (of Heli-skiing fame) to Golden and Sunshine Village to the Icefields Parkway Yoho National Park; route 93 be- in a breeze. For a change of pace, comes Banff-Windermere Parkway Banff Park’s Castles and Caves however, take the old road (Hwy Kootemik-Radium Hot Imagine spending twelve festive 1A) along the north bank of the Springs days of Christmas in a fairyland Bow River via Johnston Canyon, Imagine if you can -- two million castle! Truly unforgettable, when with its ink pots and nature walks. litres of hot, mineral-rich water gush- it’s the Banff Springs Hotel. During Chateau Lake Louise is a jewel in ing from the ground each day. That’s many memorable stays, l learned an exquisite crown. Talk of beauty a lot of Perrier! With healing powers of the hotel’s hey day from band and serenity! -- when one’s creative reputed to relieve arthritis and a list leader Louis Trono, who was on a spark needs rekindling, the Chateau of ailments as long as one’s arm, a first name basis with the Hollywood is my choice. You can paddle a canoe wily Medicine Man could have made greats. As a return to elegance, the in a scene right out of Hiawatha, or a fortune selling it by the bottle. hotel offers a new $12 million health take the alpine trail to a Tea House Known as Kootemik to local Indians, spa, with cascading waterfalls, min- for granola cakes and wild berry tea. whose legend of Nipika traces their eral whirlpools and Turkish baths. The azure lake far below gets even origin, the springs were popularized The Banff Springs is an Epicurean’s smaller, as you climb the corkscrew in the 1890s. At Radium’s Aqua- delight and a golfer’s challenge. The path. Breathe deeply folks -- it gets court, you can soak year-round in first tee-off, from high above the to be a challenge near the top. Guess the steamy, odorless mineral water, Bow River to its far shore, still gives who was left standing still by a Ger- or swim in two outdoor pools. The me goose pimples. man couple in their mid 80s? Upper Hot Springs Lodge has an 18-hole golf course, Jasper Sunwapta Safari campgrounds and shuttle-bus. After skiing Mount Norquay, hiking Louise is a hard gal to say good-bye Of Marble and Paint Pots Sundance Canyon, or fishing Lake to -- but not to worry -- there’s more According to experts, Kootenay Na- Minnewanka, Sulphur Mountain’s beauty ahead. The Ice fields Park- tional Park is an ancient ocean floor. Upper Hot Springs is a Banff ritual - way ranks among the world’s great Over 70 million years ago, so they - hot plunge, icy shower, steam bath, highroads, with glaciers standing like say, it was compressed, folded like blanket-wrap and massage. Loose as 100 icy sentinels. Jasper National a gigantic pretzel, and sculpted into a noodle and ready to devour an ox Park begins at The Columbia Ice what we call the . -- is how one usually feels after that fields, a marvel of nature with the In 1920, Ottawa bigwigs dedicated routine. A gondola nearby will whisk largest mass of ice in the Rockies. the park in a move to preserve the you to the summit for a sweeping A fleet of Snow coaches traverse the canyon’s mineral springs, and pro- view of the valley. Sundance Canyon Athabaska glacier, looking from a tect waterfalls along the highway. Trail leads to The Cave and Basin distance like ants on a giant vanilla Landmarks on the Banff-Winder- National Historic Site, where like marshmallow sundae. This seventh mere Parkway include Sinclair and honeymooners for generations past, wonder is part of a formation that Marble Canyons, we gazed through a telescope at blanketed Canada for a million years. and the Fireweed Trail. Heard about surrounding peaks. Clad in Rundle- The highway follows the Sunwapta The Paint Pots? Would you believe stone, like most Banff buildings, this River, joining its cousin the Atha- they’re ponds of red, yellow and site contains displays, a theater, and baska at . The hottest orange, just like a kiddies’ coloring tours into the misty grotto, with its water on the entire drive (54°C) is at set? The pots are fed by oxide-bear- emerald pools, and warm sulfur wa- Miette Hot Springs, near Jasper Lake ing streams, and there’s an endless ter dripping down the cavern walls. and Punchbowl Falls. Don’t worry, supply. For ages untold, Indians Priceless Indian relics at nearby Lux- it’s cooled to a comfortable 39° in mixed ochre from this site with fish ton Museum are well worth seeing. the swimming pool. oil or animal fat to decorate rocks, The Teahouse of Air connections Lake Louise teepees -- and each other. Near Take the Air Highway to Cranbrook Vermilion Pass, the Alberta- BC. If you really want to seize the mo- or Calgary Airport, then rent a car for boundary marks the summit of the ment, rent a canoe, or pedal your this journey to Hot Springs Heaven. Continental Divide; rivers east of way to Bow Falls, , You can do it in high style, at any of here drain to the Arctic Ocean or to or 101 equally delightful places. the resorts I’ve mentioned, or rough far off Hudson’s Bay; waters to the Heading north west from Banff, 12 Air Highways Magazine it with a pup tent, Coleman stove and eiderdown. Glancing at a map, you’ll spot many glaciers, mineral spas and place names we haven’t had space to mention. All I can say is -- “don’t miss this Great Canadian experience, with its hot springs and freezing glaciers.”

Air Highways Magazine 13