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Southern

Includes  Why Go? . . . . 169 Despite being barely a blip on many visitors’ radars, South- & Around. . . 176 ern Tuscany is really a region for the connoisseur. Here Pitigliano...... 177 you’ll encounter the intensely atmospheric Città del Tufa, ...... 180 a trio of still-inhabited hill towns that have been sculpted from volcanic rock since Etruscan times. All around archae- Parco Archeologico ological sites, Renaissance settlements, churches and muse- ‘Città del Tufa’...... 180 ums lie waiting to be explored. Sorano & Around. . . . 181 Locals are fiercely proud of the traditions and food cul- Parco Regionale ture of this, the region. So you can dine at an della Maremma. . . . . 184 innovative Michelin-starred eatery or feast on dishes per- ...... 185 fected over the generations, washed down with fine local wine. An embarrassment of natural riches means you can travel from sandy beaches to snowy mountains in just a few hours, passing wildlife-packed marshes and vine-covered slopes. The activities on offer are irresistible: swim, hike, Best Places to horse ride and mountain bike by day before recharging in Eat secluded agriturismi by night. ¨¨Il Tufo Allegro (p179) ¨¨Il Pellicano (p186) ¨¨Grantosco (p183) Road Distances (km) ¨¨La Tana del Brillo Parlante Massa Marittima 38 (p173) 52 48 ¨¨La Vecchia Hosteria (p177) Pitigliano 129 120 75 Best Places to Parco Regionale della Maremma 28 67 20 56 Stay ¨¨Sant’Egle (p181) ¨¨Le Camere del Ceccottino (p179) ¨¨La Fattoria di Tatti (p173) Vetulonia Massa Marittima Grosseto Pitigliano ¨¨Pieve di Caminino (p177) ¨¨Villa Fattoria Granducale (p185) 169 Southern Tuscany TheSighMassa Altsta M&ar MActarittievimmamaities

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­ La Tana del Brillo Parlante Brillo del La Tana ------occa La R to walk, cycle or canoe through wild scenery. Enjoy Enjoy wild scenery. through or canoe cycle walk, to Vetulonia egionale Agricola di Agricola di egionale , heading to to heading , is a classy place to stay. to place is a classy s mma y Terme di di Terme a to sample award-winning Morellino di Scansano wine, then hit the wine, di Scansano Morellino award-winning sample to re D are idyllic Tuscan hideaways. Tuscan idyllic are trusca Agienza R a egionale della Maremma ct sculpture garden or make straight for straight or make garden sculpture Terenzi M ta Taverna E Taverna egionale della Maremma della egionale (city-state) in 1225 but was but was in 1225 (city-state) rounding (metal- Metallifere rounding Colline attoria di Tatti Alta (Upper) Maremma starts south Maremma Alta (Upper) Briefly under Pisan domination, MasBriefly under Pisan domination, the Etruscan-era settlement near near settlement the Etruscan-era Sorano and Sovana for Etruscan necropolises and mysterious vie cave and mysterious necropolises Etruscan for and Sovana Sorano to Detour and dusty? Hot famous Maremmese cowboys on the range. Detour south to the super-quirky the super-quirky to south Detour on the range. cowboys Maremmese famous off some calories exploring the geological sites around around sites geological exploring the calories some off Cattedrale di San CerboneCattedrale San di La F Day 3: Massa Marittima Massa 3: Day and the piazzas handsome streets, narrow for town hill this medieval north to Cruise Head west to west Head R Parco Day 2: Parco R wander centuries-old streets and an streets centuries-old In Pitigliano wander Three Perfe Three Day 1: Città del Tufa dei Tarocchi dei sleeps. sampling unique regional cuisine: try unique regional sampling Sovana’s Sovana’s farm experiences at experiences farm p 8670 Po wards brought it back to life. establishment shortly of mining after tion, a situation made even worse by the by the made even worse tion, a situation prevalence in surrounding of malaria of the draining marshlands. Fortunately, marshes in the 18th century and the re- sa Marittima became an independent became an independent sa Marittima A up by a centuryswallowed later. by the decline plague in 1348 was followed mining industry, lucrative of the region’s reducing the town to the brink of extinc Drawcards at this tranquil hill town include this tranquil at Drawcards an eccentric yet endearing jumble of muse ums, an extremely piazza central handsome intactand largely medieval streets are that blessedly bereft of tour groups. Massa Marittima producing hills) that are now part of Unesco’s are now part that producing hills) of Unesco’s also covers It European Geopark Network. inland territory the hill towns including Cretesouth of the mountain Senesi and the Amiata. Monte surrounding ous terrain The to Gros down continues and Livorno of and Marittima Massa seto, incorporating the sur­ The Al