Foreword by the President

Puerto Rico to Nepal, Greenland to Chile our members have been there in recent months and have set down some of their experiences in this edition of our Bulletin.

Just look at these snippets... 'Humpback whales playing around the ship...' 'Ever onwards, ever upwards was the motto.' 'Splat! Several 10cm long spider legs twitched from under her fist.' 'Ropes fixed on the steeper sections up to camp two at 61OOm...' The track was said to be 'uncycleable' so he cycled it. 'Wingovers, spiral dives and asymmetrics..' 'Pills to combat the effects of altitude..' 'Porter blown upwards and backwards...' 'Found a suitable boulder to shelter under for the night..' In cloud and snow a circuit of all the eight tops and three Munros of Craig Meagaidh was an interesting exercise in navigation.

It's not all activity though there are reflective thoughts on those miscellaneous topics like stress in leeches, naval architecture and ageism in the Guardia Civil which litter our conversations. Crinoids, buffalo, vultures, tripe, ice cream and chips all make an appearance.

Let's hope for a few days of poor weather or at least a wet evening or two, to allow members time to dip into this melange of typically YRC madness.

©1996 Yorkshire Ramblers' Club

Secretary - John Schofie1d, 40 Newall Hall Park, Otley, West Yorkshire LS21 2RD

Editor - Michael Smith, 80 Towngate Road, Worrall, Sheffield, South Yorkshire S30 3AR

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the Y.R.C, its Officers nor those of the Editor. An information sheet entitled 'Notes for Contributors' is available to anyone considering submitting material for inclusion in subsequent editions.

The Bulletin of the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club 1 Summer 1996 Contents

D01je Lakpa Expedition Ged Campion 3 YRC Jugal Himal Expedition 1995 AlanKay 8 Paradise Maintained? - a poem Ian Crowther 23 Ascent ofNaya Kanga David Smith 24 Expedition Diary, Nepal 1957 Maurice Wilson 27

A Summer's Climbing Dream JonRiley 28 Eastern Greenland David Laughton 30 Humiliation at Caverna Corredores John Middleton 31 Cueva del Gato JonRiley 33 A World Caving Update John Middleton 35 Under a Canopy in Tenerife Peter Price 37

The President's Report DerekBush 39 Contents ofthe YRC Journals Ray Harben 41 Reviews Bill Todd 46 Edmund Bogg, the Savage Club & the YRC S. A. Craven 51

Obituaries Geogrey Booth Bates 55 Alton Hartley 55 Letters 56 Chippings 57

Meet Reports: 1995 Picos de Europa July/August 59 Mallorca April 81 Inchnadampf May/June 90 Crianlarich September 92 Low Hall Garth October 93 Swaledale October 94 Blencathra December 97 1996 North Wales January 95 Lowstern March 98 Glen Etive February 99

The Bulletin of the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club 2 Summer 1996 club expedition ill the 1990's. Dorje Lakpa Nevertheless, club members on the 1957 expedition were able to offer their invaluable advice and knowledge Expedition on the area and it~as finally Maurice Wilson, the YDungest member of the An attempt on Dorje Lakpa '57 expedition now aged 85, who (6966m) via the West Ridge by suggested Dorje Lakpa as our the climbing group of the 1995 objective. Club Expedition to Nepal The History and the Logistics of Expedition Members: the Approach: Ged Campion Expedition Leader It was therefore, our objective, to Stuart Muir Deputy Leader climb Dorje Lakpa (6966m) by the ROlY Newman Expedition Doctor West Ridge. Dorje Lakpa has been Graham Salmon attempted on six previous occasions Frank Milner and four of these managed to reach Bruce Bensley the summit via the west ridge. The DavidHick summit has not been reached by any Howard Humphreys other route on the map. However, TimBateman ours was to be the first British Pralhad Pockerell (Liaison Officer) attempt. Expeditions have normally Pemba Tsiring (Sirdar) approached the mountain from the Ang Phurba Lama (Cook) Langtang side. Only two expeditions Pemba Tharke (Head Sherpa) have previously approached from the Jugal Himal side in the south, a Introduction and Background: German expedition in 1987 and an The YRC DOlje Lakpa Expedition Italian one in 1989. The German was a Yorkshire Ramblers Club expedition was successful in reaching Expedition in the true sense. Apart the summit the Italian one was not. It from the Deputy Expedition Leader, was to be our decision to approach Stuart Muir, all the climbers were from the south since there were Club Members. certain advantages from this side: 1 The walk into the base camp would The YRC has been no stranger to the be more interesting through a remote Jugal Rimal area of Nepal. In 1959 and relatively unpopulated area the Club mounted an expedition to compared with the more popular climb Lonpo Gang (The Great White Langtang side. Peak 7,083m). Sadly, this expedition 2 We would be able to gain ended in tragedy when the expedition information ofDorje Lakpa IT which is leader and a Sherpa were killed by very visible and impressive from the serac fall on the Phurbi Chyachu Lingshing Glacier. Glacier. 3 Our base camp would have a sunny aspect. Whilst there was talk of a further attempt on Lonpo Gang, it was The disadvantages were the concems generally felt that the idea of"settling about a suitable base camp site away a score" was not the best basis for a from the dangers of avalanche and stone fall.

The YRC Bulletin 3 Summer 1996 snow stakes and ice screws chiefly The Organisation: because of then' very tempting Dorje Lakpa is a mountain that can cheapness. A Government briefing only be climbed as a joint Nepalese took place on the 4 October. It was venture and therefore permits and initially very difficult to convene this permission had to be obtained from meeting because of our arrival had the Nepalese authorities. It was Alan fallen during the festival ofDasain and Kay, Club Treasurer and nominated consequently many Government Expedition co-ordinator for the YRC, bureaucrats were still busy who took care ofthe formalities. We celebrating! At the briefing there was all have much to owe to his careful confusion about the route our caravan planning and patience surmounting the would take to approach the mountain. hurdles of Nepalese bureaucracy. However, following discussion and Rimo Expeditions acted as our Agents help from the Liaison Officer this was in Nepal organising the Liaison resolved. Officer, Sirdar, staff and base camp equipment. Malla Treks were The Approach to the Mountain: subcontracted for use by Rima On the 4 October we left Katmandu Expeditions. We were also for Chatura only 60 kilometres north interviewed by Elizabeth Hawley, long of the city and took three hours by established Climbing Journalist based motor vehicle. Porters were organised in Kathmandu. at Chatura and additional supplies were purchased by staff to sustain us The Equipment: during our outward leg. We decided Most of our equipment was loaned to to approach the higher ranges of the the expedition by club members. Jugal Himal by a series of ridge Additionally, three high level tents systems high above and to the west of were borrowed from the the Balephi Valley. This it was felt Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club, would serve as a useful acclimatisation and two loaned by the "Base Camp" exercise rather than taking the route shop in llkley. Radios were loaned by along the Belephi Valley directly to the West Yorkshire Scouts Movement Tempathang Village and then and were to prove invaluable suddenly have to climb 2,000 metres especially at altitude. Special high steeply to the top ofthe ridge system. altitude food packs were carefully prepared in England to last lOO man­ From Chatura our caravan took us days on the mountain. Two sets of through the village of Bangland up to skis were loaned by "Base Camp" in the Rhododendron Forests and leech llkley and "Climber and Rambler" in infested scrub of the Kamicharka Bets-y-Coed, NOlth Wales. Danda leading eventually to Panch Pokhari (five lakes). The monsoon The Journey Out: was late this year and bad weather The Team flew to Nepal on the 30 obscured views but out spirits were September '95 arriving in Kathmandu not dampened. Unfortunately on the 1 October. The first few days however, our poorly clad porters from were spent confirming arrangements, Chatura suffered in the wet conditions meeting agents, liaison officer and and the Sirdar experienced Sirdar. Some additional equipment considerable industrial unrest on more was purchased in Kathmandu i.e. than one occasion. From the sacred

The YRC Bulletin 4 Summer 1996 lakes of Panch Pokari we left our medial morain, we discovered a trekking team, also members of the perfect site for our advanced base YRC and travelled the so called "five camp - a grass hollow with two small combs" high above the impenetrable tarns, a veritable oasis amongst the gorges of the Balephi River to the chaos of the Lingshing Glacier. At eventual Confluence of the Balephi 4700, meters and two and a halfhours and Lingshing Rivers below the mouth from our base camp, we had very clear ofthe Lingshing Glacier. views of our objective. Tilman's porters mistakenly believed this place At the "Confluence Camp" on the 11 to be Panche Pokhari when they October 1995 we halted proceedings crossed from the Lang Tang side to to search for a suitable base camp on the Jugal via the east col in 1949. The one of the flanks of the Lingshing labours of much ferrying from base Glacier. We therefore made a camp saw the establishment of comprehensive exploration of both advanced base camp on the 15 west and east side. The west October. From here we gained height appeared safest seemingly absent of on the medial moraine climbing any avalanche threat from the slopes steeply to rejoin the glacier at 5,000 of D01je Lakpa IT above. meters. The chaos of boulders gave Unfortunately, though a number of way to ice and snow making the going good sites were discovered, access to considerablymore easy. Progress was the Glacier was impossible. The threatened on the west by regular Ablation Valley on the east side stone fall from the massive rock however hosted a very promising site buttresses of Ling Shing Kanshurm and access to the glacier proved (6078 metres). Although a number of relatively simple. Tins and other crevasses were encountered, they artefacts were evidences of a previous proved relatively easy to cross. Camp camp no doubt the German expedition 1 was established on the 16 October at of 1987. Although there was some 5,300 meters just below Tilmans East .threat of serac fall from the cliffs of Col marking the start of'Dorje Lakpa's Urkinmang (6151 m), it was judged west ridge. During these early days that the camp site was of a generally progress was often hampered by poor safe distance in the event of any ice visibility and snow fall but late fall. Base camp was therefore monsoon mists gradually gave way to established at 4500 m on Friday 13 clear and cooler weather. October with marvellous view of D01je Lakpa from the crest of the The camp I was efficiently equipped lateral moraine of the Lingshing by ferrying equipment from advance Glacier. base. From here we ascended the gradual snow slope to the right ofthe The Climb: From base camp the Ablation Valley ridge. Access to the ridge proper was gained via a 45° slope initially was followed to an eventual descent to the Lingshing Glacier gained from a christened the Scottish Grade IT. From the top of this, the ridge rose diagonal traverse on steep loose broadly at first and then more finally moraine. The next section of the crested with large cornices Glacier Tilman was described in 1949 overhanging the Langtang side of the as "a long stretch ofrough penitential mountain. We were mostly forced surface, huge craters and hillocks of on to the southern side of the stone covered ice". Forced on to the

The YRC Bulletin 5 Summer 1996 o 5km lOkm TIBET , _.- Border

- -0- - Route taken with camps

YRC Dorje Lakpa Expedition - 1995

, --->4, pPallgtallg la Kamicharka; ; 1160m Iudrawati Dauda " la \ Khola '-~ " ')J" .. "\ ( 2557~i. \) ',~-, -'~- \~\ --- .../' '\. . \ \- '- .l ,

- ~\~... -'0, " ,1~a1bire 830m

" fJ SWya e'" i If Jeen ,A IJ ft::"!' Kathmandu IT" t 'om NEPAL ~- c ~: here 55lan by road Chautara ';', Crest on steep ground sometime ice again. At :first this camp was sited too covered and sometimes poor quality far along the ridge and precariously snow. Ropes were fixed on the poised on the Crest. The following steeper sections and by the 24 October morning it was moved back into a less Camp 2 was established on the section precipitous area. Throughout this ofthe ridge at 6,100 meters where the period, teams had been continually ridge levels out before rising sharply visited by two large alpine ravens who

'TheYRC Bulletin 6 Summer 1996 cunningly managed to unearth food continued to descend the Balephi and equipment despite considerable Valley through Gompathang and efforts to conceal supplies. finally the village of Jalibre where jeeps were hired to convey us to On the 24/25 October, exploration Balephi Village itself Soon after the began on the ridge above camp 2. Village we reached the main road This was to be the turning point ofthe south to Kathmandu. The entire expedition. Much to our dismay snow journey from base camp to conditions began to deteriorate Kathmandu took six days. substantially. Disturbing slab avalanche conditions were The Return: encountered on the south side of the Once back ill Kathmandu ridge making a traverse extremely arrangements were made for a serious. The ridge reared up and debriefing meeting at the Government could not be climbed at the crest buildings. This however did not because of the unstable nature of the transpire. Instead the Liaison Officer cornice. There appeared to be no requested that we filled in a form reasonable way forward. Expedition covering details of the expeditions members discussed the situation fully, conclusion. The expedition left but with an absence ofother routes on Kathmandu to fly home to England on the 25 October that fateful decision the 10 November. that every mountaineer dreads had to be made - not to go on. With mixed Acknowledgements: feelings therefore, over the next three days, camps were dismantled and We thank the following for their equipment was gathered together and generous financial support: a runner was sent to organise potters Foundation for Sport and the Arts, in Tempathang for our return journey. British Mountaineering Council, Base Camp was completely cleared up YRC members, and non biodegradable rubbish carried Mount Everest Foundation, out with us. Barclays Bank, Panasonic UK Ltd, The Outward Journey: Skipton Building Society On the 28 October, the expedition left and an anonymous donor. the base camp and headed back south across the five combs via the The Wolverhampton MC provided "Confluence" Camp. From the Panch three high altitude tents. The Base Pokhari area a steep track was taken Camp shop at llkley also provided two in the direction of the village of high altitude tents. Climber and Tempathang. This required a full days Rambler in Bets-y-Coed, North Wales descent through difficult forest and Base Camp in llkley provided ski covered country. It was at this village mountaineering (which incidentally that our Sirdar experienced were not used). The West Yorkshire considerable difficulty persuading the Scout Movement provided five radios porters to continue on the outward that were used extensively from Base journey. They had considered the Camp. descent the previous day too exacting and so there was some reluctance to Food was supplied at a discount by:­ continue immediately. However, an Twinings Tea, Yorkshire Tea agreement was made and the caravan and Asda Stores

The YRC Bulletin 7 Summer 1996 The YRC Jugal Rimal Here we saw the enOlIDOUS advantage of having a good local agent to help Expedition, 1995 with customs formalities. We were Alan Kay met and ushered through Customs .without the slightest problem or delay - our fears oflosing two or three days Planning for the D Lakpa orje with Customs problems had been Expedition and the related trekking misplaced. expedition to the Jugal Himal began in December 1992, and after almost We met Motup, our principal agent, three years, work, including solving outside the airport building, and at last minute problems, it seemed almost once took a liking to him - a small, unreal on lst October 1995 actually to though powerfully built man of 29, be beginning the expedition, and brimming with energy and enthusiasm. boarding the coach for Heathrow. Thirty minutes later we were at our hotels, the climbers at the Kathmandu The original reason for having a Guest House and the trekking group special coach had been quite simply to at the Tibetan owned Utse Hotel in ensure that everyone, and the Thamel- the beginning ofa separation enormous amount of equipment we I didn't altogether care for. were taking, actually got to Heathrow on time. The enthusiastic "send-off' Next day the 7 members of the we received from spouses, partners, trekking group went sightseeing round children and other YRC members Kathmandu. Our first destination was certainly gave our departure quite a Swayambhu Stupa. On the way we lift and the "coming together" of the , . crossed the Vishnumati River, the two teams in this way was, I think, felt river banks lined with piles of garbage by everyone; there was clearly a through which a number of enormous feeling ofincreasing excitement as we pigs and water buffalo were progressed down the country from rummaging, We looked in at a small one pick-up point to the next. monastery where Nepali families were meeting and worshipping. We had Formalities at Heathrow were dealt arrived in Nepal at the beginning of with without hitch, and this was the the Dasain Festival which lasts four first of a number of occasions when days and during this festival it is dealing with officialdom, that as a traditional for families to visit their large party we received preferential relatives. From the jovial atmosphere treatment. it was clear that everyone was having a good time, playing games. and The PIA flight had a stop-over at generally enjoying one another's Dubai and we were able to wander company, children and grandparents around the magnificent airport being much in evidence. A game building. Karachi was reached on similar to monopoly, but played on the time, transit arrangements went pavement, noisily, and for money, was smoothly (again, 'group-power') and popular. It was fascinating to see the three hours later we were in entire population intent on enjoying Kathmandu. themselves.

The YRC Bulletin 8 Summer 1996 Further along our way to Swayambhu We left Kathmandu next day at 12­ I noticed that many of the houses, 30pm.for a four-hour journey to the built of crude crumbling brickwork, village of Chautari where we camped had huge satellite dishes on the roofs ­ on the village games field, just outside the dishes seemed to be made oflittle the village. more than chicken wire. Against a backdrop ofSwayambhu Stupa, which What an introduction it was, though, is on a site believed to be 2000 years to the Himalayas. The sky seemed old, were thus ancient and modern in quite enormous, gigantic clouds juxtaposition. constantly undergoing delicate changes of colour as the sun went The Stupa, by definition a domed down, from brilliant white, through structure housing the relics of a saint, deepening shades of gold, and finally is surrounded by 211 prayer wheels at russet as the sun neared the horizon. shoulder height, and devout Buddhists When the sun was finally gone, quite circuit the stupa in clockwise imperceptibly more and more stars direction, turning all the prayer wheels appeared than a city-bred Westerner as they pass. Swayambhu is a superb would ever realise existed. viewpoint for the entire Kathmandu valley, and for this reason alone is a A building near the games field was good starting place for a visit to occupied by the Save The Children Nepal; add the noise, smells and Fund, one of many in Nepal, bustle, the monuments and the idols, according to Motup. He said that the the tolerance shown there between activities ofthis charity were working fellowmen, and it becomes an epitome wonders, gradually increasing health ofthe whole ofNepal. facilities and health education in the countryside. We made our way eventually to Durbar Square where a Sadhu, for a Next day started with a routine that fee, allowed us to photograph him. we were to follow for the remainder We bartered with some traders for a of the trip - out of sleeping bag at few items for presents, and then made 6am. , Sherpas bring "bed-tea" then our way by cycle rickshaw to Patan. washing water, pack up personal David and Albert, after much belongings, and whilst we eat searching, and despite two punctures breakfast the tents are taken down and to their rickshaw, eventually found the packed, and we begin walking at Jesuit College they were looking for, about 7am. and apparently were very warmly greeted by the chief Monk and given An easy pleasant path took us through tea. The rest of us enjoyed further some small settlements where the haggling for presents, crowned by lan, celebrations of the Dasain Festival at great length, buying a large wooden were continuing. In two or three mask, for the adomment, wife places huge swings had been made permitting, of a wall in his house. from bamboo poles and children, old That evening the "trekkers" joined the as well as young, took enormous climbing group at the Kathmandu delight in swinging madly, almost to Guest House for dinner. the horizontal position at each

The YRC Bulletin 9 Summer 1996 extremity ofthe swing. I believe that a Pokhari. The path was eroded into good number ofthe passing trekkers deep channels which occasionally would have given rupees for the made progress awkward, particularly chance ofa go! for our porters. We also encountered our first leeches - rubbery little brutes On the balconies of many of the that reached out from vegetation as houses maize cobs had been hung out soon as they could pick up human to dry in the sun, and near most scent. They seemed almost to 11sniff' groups ofhouses, forming a giant leap us out, and then attach themselves to for improved health, were water taps clothing or skin, before proceeding to and shiny brass water carriers. suck blood. Although quite small before feeding, (anything from I" to We had an early lunch near a 3" long and matchstick thick), after dilapidated Chorten - a hot, sultry spot sucking blood they can fatten out to - followed by a short afternoon walk I" thick and 4" or 5" long. on a well used track, through forest to camp near a small settlement known The state of the path meant we as Lower Orkin. There was a small tea couldn't avoid vegetation and house which was well patronised by therefore all of us were caught by the porters, and the village tap was leeches. Fortunately I managed to spot used by some of our group to wash them and remove them before blood out sweaty clothes. The tents were set was drawn, but most other members up on a grassy "bealach" where valleys were bitten at one time or another and fell away on three sides; next morning lost blood. One leech which I spotted these valleys were filled with mist 6" below my crutch, and heading which gradually rose and dispersed as northwards, was despatched with the sun got higher and brighter - an particular urgency. entrancing sight in the clear air, and which stopped conversation for a Our lunch stops, as well as the while. Breakfast was porridge, fried camping sites were dictated by "eggy" bread and tea, very good, but availability of water, and we had to not so welcome for the members who stop today for lunch at 9-20am.. A couldn't eat either porridge or eggs! large eagle was identified on rocks nearby and later it flew around quite In sticky humid conditions we effortlessly. continued along the route which is taken every July by pilgrims to Panch

The YRC Bulletin 10 Summer 1996 We camped at Balua Karka, an or so miles away, totally covered with opening in the forest and quite a damp snow and ice. We were to see much spot which quickly became a quagmire more of this beautiful mountain, the when it rained heavily later that highest in the Langtang, in the weeks afternoon, with much thunder and ahead. lightning. The whole site was then running with water and in the mess We met two children and subsequently tent it was 311 or 411 deep. a man and young girl, possibly his wife, who were driving cows along Our porters stoically put up with the the path. Later a small flock of goats extra discomfort, but trouble was passed us going in the opposite brewing amongst the porters attached direction, two very young goats being to the climbing group. These were carried by the shepherd. local men, not particularly experienced at the job, but deliberately chosen so More and more blue gentians were in they could be easily dismissed when full flower and one area over 150 no longer needed. The porters with yards or so long was literally covered the trekkers, however, had been with them. recruited by Mingma, our Sirdar, from Pokara, 70 miles or so away, and not This part of the pilgrims route had only were they professional, been laid with large flat stones and experienced porters, they couldn't so progress was easier and quicker. easily quit when the going got rough. Views opened up westwards towards the Helambu region, a more cultivated Despite the flood conditions, the area with many terraces of rice. By cooks and kitchen staff managed to contrast however, the Jugal now was prepare a good hot meal, and with steep, rough and tree covered with no thunder and lightning still crashing and cultivation possible, hence the absence flashing around we turned in, hoping of villages and scarcity of local for the best. population. Camp, at an altitude of 3360 meters, was near some stone Next morning, as so often happens huts which were roofed with bamboo. after a storm, the weather was perfect - blue skies, clear light, and views Next day was Sunday 8th October, through the trees to high mountains, and we had been on the move for a our first views of D01je Lakpa One week. A steep climb was followed by and Two. an undulating ridge walk, and on turning a slight bend, there before us Continuing along the pilgrims trail, were superb views ofthe entire range now not so eroded, and on a ridge - D01je Lakpa 1 and 2, Phurbi top, we came across masses of blue Chyachu and Langtang Lirung, along gentians and other flowers I couldn't with many others we couldn't yet identify. Our two botanists, Howard identify. There followed a superb walk and Rory, were running around from amongst rhododendron trees, more one find to another, however, like blue and occasionally white gentians, excited youngsters. to camp at Nasem Pati, a site used by pilgrims and adorned with prayer When the view opened out we could flags. The tents were put up in a series see Langtang Lirung (23739') twenty of gullies - fortunately it didn't rain in

The YRC Bulletin 11 Summer 1996 the night, otherwise there could have We joined the climbing group for been problems. The climbing group dinner in their mess tent, a joint camped a little higher, just over the celebration for tomorrow our routes ridge, a cold site during the night but separated. with beautiful views eastwards next morning towards the Jugal peaks. We were now at a point on the trek where we had to decide either to Our walk to Panch Pokhari next day attempt Tilman's Pass West, a 17000' was quite short - 3 hours - but was glacier covered notch in the ridge delightful; traversing the west side of' between Jugal and Langtang, or the ridge before finally crossing it to whether to cut across the grain ofthe arrive at Panch Pokhari, The site of Jugal to the Ganja La pass. Motup and these five lakes at an altitude of our Sirdar, Mingma, were not at all 14650' was similar in style to the keen to cross Tilman's, largely because Scottish Highlands, but magnified they didn't know what it involved, but three or four times in size. There were were prepared to go to the Ganja La. two or three old stone walls erected There was much heart searching on for sheltering pilgrims, and now used our part, mine in particular, as the by porters for the same purpose. The crossing of Tilman's Pass West had two groups camped beside separate been at the centre of my plans from lakes, a complete separation, for the outset. We were of course still in tomorrow we were to go our different the early stages of the trek, and had ways. It was misty and cold so apart much food and equipment, and from George doing some bird therefore many porters, and it seemed watching, most of us retreated early that Motup's fears centred on how into our tents. Altitude was beginning they would contend with an attempt to to have some effect and the short day cross Tilman's Pass West. followed by rest was welcome. Roy in particular had been going quite badly As an attempt at a compromise it was today, puffing and panting up every decided that next day Motup and slope. He was diagnosed by ROlY as David would go as far as possible having bronchitis and given a course towards Tilman West to see what the of antibiotics which eventually cured terrain was like, and Mingmaand one him. of the Sherpas would try to find a route that might lead directly from We met only five Westerners in the Panch Pokhari towards the Ganja La. Jugal, two Germans south of Panch Pokhari, two Spaniards just south of Whilst these parties were out, and the Ganja La pass and a ganulous while George and Roy had a rest day, We1shman who was staying at Panch the remaining four trekkers, Derek, Pokhari in a hut near one ofthe lakes. Albert, Ian and myself, accompanied He rapidly told us his life history ­ by two Sherpas followed the route of perhaps he had been starved of the climbing group, firstly on to the Western conversation - but later he ridge which encloses the corrie at tried to stir up trouble amongst our Panch Pokhari, then northwards into porters and I was glad to see the back the first two "cwms" which lie below ofhim. and to the west of the rock peak 1 known as Cathedral (approx 16450 ). The views towards Dorje Lakpa 1 and

10e YRC Bulletin 12 Summer 1996 2 were excellent and we had a bird's would have been justified in pressing eye view ofChintang and the valley of on, but it was clear that our route the Pulmathong Khola (the site of the henceforth had to be towards the' 1957 base camp) as well as the upper Ganja La pass. With the benefit of valley and inaccessible gorge of the hindsight this turned out overall to be Balephi Khola. Mist gradually formed a better route than the crossing of in the early afternoon, and wafted Tilman's Pass West. around in the slight breeze, tantalisingly obscuring the mountains Next day our route involved briefly,then a "window" would appear backtracking to Nasem Pati before as a hole in the mist, making the striking south-west towards the village mountains even more ethereal. of Yarsa. We had hoped, however, that before leaving Panch Pokhari, During my early research for the trip, George would be able to follow part John Cleare had described the series of our previous day's walk and thus ofhigh cwms which lead to the glacier have a bird's-eye-view of the confluence below Cathedral as "simply mountains and valleys he had travelled delightful", and indeed they were just through in 1957. This was not to be, that. There was water and flat ground, however, as clouds were down, and shelter and superb views and they furthermore, during the previous day would have made good camp sites. of rest, whilst sitting awkwardly This was officially a "rest day" and we reading in his tent, George had made the most of it, relaxing in the damaged his back. I knew that his sun in the cwms and on the ridge, principal reason for joining the trek taking many photographs. When we was to see again the area ofhis earlier returned to Panch Pokhari our exploits, and I was particularly sad Sherpas led us on a direct descent of that he was deprived of the best the headwall of the come which viewpoint ofthe area. provided good views of the five lakes below, but in the latter stages it As we descended towards Nasem Pati degenerated into swinging from one the sun began to break through part of thorn bush to the next, good fun, the mist, and I well remember seeing nevertheless. an area of grasses, wet with dew, illuminated by the bright low sun so Motup and David returned late in the that each blade of grass looked like a afternoon, having walked hard all day. stalk oflight. We soon got back to the They had not been able to get a close long mani wall above Nasem Pati and sighting of either Tilman's Pass West after a short rest, pressed on or the Lingshing Glacier but in the downwards on a good track through circumstances we had to accept their delightful woods to stop for lunch advice that it was probably impractical near a side stream. There was light to attempt the crossing with our full rain in the early afternoon, but we party ofporters, Sherpas and trekkers reached our campsite, situated on bearing in mind the time at our terraces above Yarsa at 3-30pm after disposal. It would have meant three an eight-hour day during which we camps each at over 16000' and Motup had descended more than 8000'. was rightly concerned for the safety of the porters who carry little in the way George had been in pain all day and he of warm clothing. A smaller party wisely decided that he should return to

The YRC Bulletin 13 Summer 1996 Kathmandu for a few days rest and to Whilst we were resting beside the get some physiotherapy treatment for bridge, George and his smallretinue of his back. We were now at virtually the porters/assistants leisurely strolled last point on our route where a down to the bridge, having found a convenient retreat to Kathmandu was much better path. It was hot in the possible, and Motup therefore valley bottom and some ofthe porters assigned a potter and Laxman, one of stripped to their underpants for a rare the kitchen staff, to accompany wash in the liver. George on the two day journey. George hoped to be fit enough to Continuing on a good path, we rejoin us in about ten days time in the rounded the southern end of the Langtang Valley. Thorke Danda to the banks of the Yangri Khola, and after climbing very We were now down to an altitude of steeply for 200' or so over a rocky 6000', and the thicker air was bluff descended to a good spot for relatively so rich in oxygen that it lunch beside a new suspension bridge. almost seemed "drinkable". During a A few local children watched us eat, lavish afternoon tea we ate lots of gradually edging closer as their cracker biscuits smothered with timidity left them. "Jimmy Carter" peanut butter so named by us as Motup had told us of Our path was now steeply upwards his trek to Everest Base Camp some onto the Thorke Danda, but George's years earlier with the erstwhile path diverged here as he had to cross president. over the Yangri Khola to go towards Tarkeghyang, where he could get a On the following day, Thursday, 12th local bus to Kathmandu. Our route up October, we continued downhill again, very steep zigzags for about 2000' through the village of Yarsa. We met took us to a campsite beside a a number ofvillagers who were going deserted house, near to the village of about their work - either ploughing Ripar. with oxen-drawn wooden ploughs, fetching water or carrying fodder for We now began to appreciate the huge the livestock, and a short distance rugged terrain of the Jugal and beyond the village, and downstream understand why so few tourists from a large waterfall, we found a venture there. The steepness of the water-driven grain mill being worked hillsides is almost intimidating, and by two millers, one of whom spoke next morning our route continued quite good English, and who insisted upwards for a further 2000' or so to a on showing David into his house and kharka on the Thorke Danda. introducing his many relatives. None of the Sherpas or porters knew TIle remaining descent to a chain the area, nor whether it was possible bridge across the Larka Khola was to get from the Thorke Danda to the awkward and slippery, threading Ganja La Pass. Our Sirdar had between series of terraces, and in the fortunately found a local hunter, a latter stages it was desperately steep. delightful "old" man of 55, who It was incredible that the potters, assured us that the route was possible, wearing "flipflops" and carrying heavy and he was engaged to show us the awkward loads managed so well. way. He joined us at the kharka and

The YRC Bulletin 14 Summer 1996 whilst we recovered from the effects Our campsite for the night was at of the steep climb, he placed some Dabre Kharka, a fairly flat site where wild flowers in the kharka, offering a the ridge opened out. There was an short prayer. old stone shelter which was taken over by the kitchen staff and porters, and The Thorke Danda, our route for the when they got their fires burning, next two days, was covered with a smoke and steam filtered through the forest of rhododendron trees which reed roof so much that it seemed the restricted views somewhat. The ridge place was on fire. The huge cloud path gradually degenerated into a mud effects, after the early afternoon heavy plod, and eventually we came across rain were on a gigantic, Himalayan the cause - a small herd of cattle and scale, almost as if the clouds were yaks. Whilst we lunched here, sitting trying to vie with the mountains for on a large tarpaulin, a monk dressed in size, brightness and beauty. This his full robes ofyellow and red passed campsite was perhaps one ofthe most by - in this area of little habitation I sheltered, luxurious sites we had. wondered where he might have come from. We were away next morning at our usual time of about 7-l5am, We were back in leech country and continuing along the Thorke Danda the rubbery creatures came at us from which at about 11500' was still all directions. Not having salt available covered with huge rhododendron to deter them, I hit one of them three trees. Availability of water was or four times with a trainer shoe - this becoming a potential problem - one of had absolutely no effect as it simply the reasons the Jugal is not much uncurled when I had finished hitting it frequented - and today when water and continued to loop its way towards was found at 9-15am. we had lunch! -­ me. - but more importantly, the porters prepared and ate their first meal ofthe A few weeks after returning to the UK day. I read a newspaper article about the medical miracles possible with the aid We were now in the wildest part of ofleeches - "leeches are very sensitive the Jugal, the path was narrow, to stress of all kinds", wrote the sometimes non existent. Morning mist author following a visit to a leech was slowly curling around huge farm. He continued "

The YRC Bulletin 15 Summer 1996 manner of obstacles. It was difficult thickets of bamboo, bushes and loose enough for the trekkers, each carrying rock. From time to time the only way small 201b rucksacks, but how on forward was to swing from one lot of earth the porters managed with four vegetation to the next. This went on times that weight I shall never know. for about two hours, and towards the Our two "table men" whose sole job bottom of the valley, amongst more during the trek was to carry a folding bamboo, we had lunch. We had table and three chairs each, plus their "bottomed out" the valley at a point own equipment, must have had a west of the peak 18276', and we nightmare of a day. We all had therefore followed the river upstream enormous respect for our porters, but for about two miles, crossing today and the next day they were tributaries where necessary, and nothing short ofheroes. eventually crossed to the west side of the main stream at the confluence of Late in the afternoon, at an altitude of two large tributaries, near two old about 15500' the ridge widened out stone huts which were probably used considerably, we were above the tree in summer by goat herders. line and still with intermittent mist, and the scene was a bit "Scottish". We waited here for the entire party to Water availabilitywas again a problem cross the river, either by boulder but on the west side of the ridge we hopping or wading - it was fairly came across a small spring of good shallow but very cold and fast flowing. water, and close by, a flat area for the tents; this spot was known as Dyag With everyone safely across there Kharka. The porters found shelter seemed to be something of a "hidden amongst some old stone walls about agenda" amongst the porters, for they half a mile away. all sat around, with no signs of movement, but most tellingly of all, The following day will long be their faces clearly said what was in remembered by us all, trekkers, their minds. I realised we probably Sherpas, and especially the porters, had a porter strike on our hands - we We knew we had to descend to, and were at the most remote part of our cross the Yangri Khola, a drop of journey, two hard days away from any about 4000', and then establish camp form of help, and we were utterly on the west side as high and close to dependent upon the porters for the Ganja La Pass as possible. The supplies and movement of equipment. "path" quickly disappeared but the At this spot.was water - albeit glacier clouds were high and the line of the fed - and shelter for the porters, but route was fairly obvious. Generally ideally we needed to continue for downwards at first, we had to climb another two hours to a much higher over the shoulders oftwo large conies camping site. The onward route that looked rather like Skye on a certainly looked intimidating, up a grand scale, with huge black walls and huge convex slope ofmoraine, the top pinnacles and much loose rock. I out of sight. There followed a doubt whether these corries have been conversation between Motup and entered by Western mountaineers ­ some of the porters which was they were certainly superb spots. Then subsequently translated for us, and followed a rough, very steep descent slowly and reluctantly the porters got down a long narrow gully, through

'TheYRC Bulletin 16 Summer 1996 up, picked up their loads and started uphill- to everyone's immense relief We awoke next morning to bright sunshine and could fully appreciate the They had told Motup they were tired ­ glorious position of our campsite, understandable, so was I, and I was surrounded as it was by jagged black only carrying a third oftheir load - and rock peaks, most capped with snow, they wanted to pitch camp where they and a glacier falling from the upper were - actually quite a good site - but valley. We delayed our departure to Motup had pointed out that supplies let the tents dry out and to give the for everyone, porters included, were porters extra rest, for they had another getting low and it was essential to get hard day ahead. over the Ganja La and into the Langtang Valley to reprovision within We took the opportunity in this two days. He asked if they could do beautiful setting to take photographs this without going on further today. of the group ceremoniously drinking The answer was clear to everyone, our Yorkshire tea, obtained for the and the potential strike was avoided. expedition at trade price by my younger daughter Madeline, a member Climbing steep convex moraine is not of the commercial division of Taylors good at any time, and at the end of a of Harrogate, the producers of hard day, with 601bs. or more to Yorkshire tea. carry, the porters were exhausted, but kept going. My respect for these Our local guide, having done his job fellows increased no end. so well, now left us to return to his village, and there were moving little Over to the east, in a valley between ceremonies and much hand shaking. points 19170' and 19450' there appeared a huge waterfall, an entire David became a drug addict today as river falling sheer over the lip ofrock; for the first time he needed pills for the most spectacular part of the diarrhoea, (the result of a porter waterfall was, however, in the lower fetching drinking water from a glacial part of the drop, where vertically stream), further pills to combat the falling water hit a huge boulder and effects of altitude (he'd taken Diamox dramatically spewed up and out like a two days earlier for the first time and giant fountain. Regrettably neither I as a result had been up eight times that nor anyone else could get into a good night), further anti-malaria pills and position to photograph it, because of finally a cod liver oil capsule - nine in an intermediate moraine ridge, and the all. Only three days earlier David had poor light. announced that in his 67 years to date, the only pills he had taken were twelve Eventually after two hours we crested aspmns, the moraine and found a good site for the camp on flat ground surrounded We moved off at the late time of 8­ by peaks rising to 19000' or more, the 30am, heading for the crest of the perfect site for tomorrow's crossing of Ganja La, about two miles away. the Ganja La Pass. We were now very There was much boulder hopping on close to the more usual route to this the moraine, some of the boulders pass which follows the Dukpa Danda, being as big as double-deck buses, so but we saw no signs ofthe route. progress was slow and hard. We kept

The YRC Bulletin 17 Summer 1996 well away from the eastern wall ofthe whilst Roy and I went down to camp conie where there was much unstable at a much lower altitude at a site scree, and after two or three rests we known as Yeshekupedakto, and thus eventually scrambled up the steep final have a needed rest the following day. I slopes of the pass at midday, at a have to admit that when we parted, height ofapprox 17000'. Albert's offer, made only partly in jest, to swap places with me, was tempting, All our early reading in preparation for but tinitis had made it clear for two or the trek had mentioned the deep three nights that a rest day was unconsolidated powder snow on the needed. So after some three hours far, northern side of the pass, and we more of boulder hopping on loose were therefore equipped to deal with steep moraine we arrived at the it. However, to our enormous campsite, at an altitude of about surprise, and with some relief: we saw 13000', where the air was rich with on cresting the narrow pass that the oxygen and where we could relax after valley on the far side was almost four hard days trekking. A better place devoid ofsnow. for relaxing could hardly be found, for the views across the Langtang Valley We spent some time at the pass taking to Langtang Lirung and up the valley in the view - we could see all the to Fluted Peak and beyond were Langtang peaks, the peaks on the wonderful. We were virtually in a Nepal/Tibet border - Dome Blanc, "balcony" position, able to have the Triangle, Pemthang Ri, etc., all over best views without moving from the 22000' and beyond them tent. Shishapanga, wholly in Tibet, at 26398', one of the 8000 meter peaks. The weather next morning was quite Dorje Lakpa could not be seen as the different, however, - it was bitterly intermediate ridges of Pongen Dopku cold, cloud was down low and (19450') and "Fluted Peak" (20954') threatened to stay low, and our filled the view in that direction. thoughts were with our four colleagues attempting Naya Kanga. We descended the steep headwall of We knew they planned a 5-30am start the northern valley by means of a and that even ifall went well they had narrow ramp where the Sherpas had a 12 hour-day to get down to our fixed a rope to help the porters down. camp. The poor weather obviously Not for the first time did I wonder altered this time scale and meant that how they would manage, for the ledge it was impossible for them to get was little more than boot wide for down before darkness fell at about much ofits length, and the drop on the 5pm. tight hand was absolutely sheer for about lOO'. We were surprised therefore to see Albert, accompanied by two potters, We descended the upper COllie on descending the scree high above camp loose moraine for about 300' and at at 10.45am. and he duly reached camp this point our party divided. David, at 11-30am. Back trouble had forced Derek, Ian and Albert, accompanied him to pull out of the. climb but the by Motup and Casi made their way up news he brought was mixed He had to a high glacier camp as a preliminary watched the climbers on their route, to climbing Naya Kanga the next day, apparently going well, but they had

The YRC Bulletin 18 Summer 1996 delayed their start by one hour to down in our camp at 1pm. - another ensure they had daylight as they superhuman effort which made us feel negotiated a series of crevasses. This likewimps. told us that even at top speed they would not be able to reach us today. Whilst David, Derek and lan slept, Albert, Roy and 1 went out along a The remainder of the day was spent spur which gave an almost panoramic resting and eating, but mainly trying to view of the upper Langtang Valley ­ work out the various possible routes we found Himalayan Edelweiss and a and timing of our friends - all quite number ofsmall white gentians, and of futile ofcourse. course took many photographs.

In poor weather at 4pm, one of the Later, our descent to Kyangjin Gompa Sherpas ascended the steep moraine took us through glorious old above in an attempt to meet and help woodland festooned with hanging down the climbers - he took with him lichen. A huge boulder, the size oftwo a kettle full of hot lemon juice, houses, was lodged in the bed of the knowing they would be cold and Langtang Khola, and with planks thirsty. In the fading light he was lost either side linking it to the river bank, to sight at 4-30pm. We worried about formed a natural bridge over this their safety, but could do nothing until turbulent stream. From the boulder, tomorrow - they were at least not looking upstream was a view of a without experience of benightment, peak, in perfect juxtaposition with the though not at 19000' valley, the river and the other mountains, yet dominating them all An hour before dawn Motup reached with its splendour, and after much camp, having descended in darkness. discussion and changing of minds we He had sprained his ankle whilst eventually identified it as Gangchempo negotiating the difficult moraine, but - the peak aptly named by Tilman as he reported that the others were well. "Fluted Peak". Sherpas were despatched to help them down and at 9am. they were seen At Kyangjin we camped amongst beginning the long slow final descent. thirty or so other trekkers, very much They arrived an hour later, lan in front aware that our journey through the followed by David and Derek, all wilderness of the Jugal was over. We looking very weary, particularly the decreed a rest day for the next day and President. They were on a "high" at therefore only climbed 3000 1 or so to the success of their climb, but were the top ofTsergo Ri! Even ifit wasn't hungry and tired; They could, physically restful, then mentally it however, only now be allowed two certainly was - there was no pressure hours sleep as it was vital that we to move on, the weather was perfect, move down to the valley because the and our Naya Kanga team had views porters were now out offood. all day of their mountain from valley bottom to its summit. We met yaks, One of the Sherpas who had gone up photographed yet more gentians, and to assist the climbers had continued on from the summit - no mean height at to the site of their high level camp to 16500' - had some of the finest views retrieve the oxygen cylinder, stove and of the trip. Although the summit of gas canisters, and he arrived back Langtang Lirung was a further 7500 1

The YRC Bulletin 19 Summer 1996 above us we seemed close to it, and far had only taken three hours, and so Nawang, one of our accompanying in the afternoon most ofus went much Sherpas pointed out the route of the further up valley to Langshisha previous year's Japanese attempt on Kharka (13400). the mountain - he had been a member oftheir Sherpa team. En route David couldn't resist climbing a huge boulder which must We sauntered back to Kyangjin, drank have fallen to the valley bottom gallons ofhot orange juice and simply thousands of years ago. Rather more lapped up the relative luxury of it all. recently fallen, however, and with There was even a "shop" at Kyangjin, further to go in the next monsoon, run by a very astute Tibetan lady. was a huge precariously balanced rock which was lodged temporarily in place Another lady - a New Zealander ­ in a steep stream bed which we correctly identified us as part of "the crossed. Dorje Lakpa group" and told us ofher meeting with George three days Where the valley turned slightly earlier. He had been robbed of money northwards, Langshisa Kharka was and his trekking permit and had revealed to us, in the centre of an area returned to Kathmandu to get another where the valley briefly widened, with permit - at least, though, we had the a narrow ravine at one end and the good news of knowing that he was fit terminal moraine of the Langtang and well. glacier at the other. It was a perfect "sanctuary", the feeling of Our campsite was a thoroughfare for "protection" being reinforced by the locals, Sherpas, porters and other huge line of peaks which form the trekkers and, inevitably, a few local Tibetan border and which were now children came and looked at us. directly in front of us. The dominant Amongst them was a boy aged about peak was Pemthang Karpo (22408') nine years who was carrying his young which has the self descriptive brother; we learned that the nine year alternative French name "Dome old was destined for a life as a monk, Blanc". Next along the ridge was the but his current skills were devoted to equally self descriptive Triangle Peak playing cards, which he usually won. (21400').

We were now in the final stages ofthe Looking southwards we were able to trek, but before leaving the Langtang see far up towards the Langshisa Valley we wanted to go as far as glacier, and could just make out the possible up the valley towards the northern slopes of Tilman's Pass Tibetan border, and ifpossible see the West. There was no snow on the north side of Tilman's Pass West. In moraine and rocks leading to the pass real holiday mood we sauntered up the and it seemed that ifwe had been able valley, passing the site of the disused to get to the pass from the south as airstrip, then following closely the originally planned, then no difficulty Langtang Khola, to camp at would have been experienced in Nubamathang, where there was an descending to the Langtang Valley. "hotel" - a stone building with a mat roofand which both outside and inside Hindsight is a luxury, of course, but was rather like a yak hut. The walk so whilst looking up to the pass from

'nle YRC Bulletin 20 Summer 1996 Langshisa Kharka I was convinced, previous monsoon and which must and I remain convinced, that the route have blocked the river for a while. we took across the Jugal to the Ganja La, and then down into Langtang, was Our final day was a short five hour better than our originally planned walk to the roadhead at Dunche. This route. day, as our first, was a Nepalese festival day. On this occasion it was in We intended to retum to Langshisa honour of all the animals, which today Kharka next day and ifpossib1e go up were not allowed to do any work, and onto the Langtang glacier - rumour were garlanded in blight yellow and had it that snow leopard were still in orange flowers. Lots ofNepalese also the area. Unfortunately the weather had similar garlands, and before long, was quite different next moming, and so had some ofthe trekkers. having already seen the area in perfect conditions, we didn't want to see it in It was therefore a suitably relaxing end anything less, and we therefore moved to the trek. We had crossed the back to Kyangjin and then on to camp wildest part of the Jugal, climbed a at Gore Tabe1a. respectable peak (rated by Motup as harder than any other trekking peak he Whilst passing through the village of had climbed); we had a wonderful Langtang we met George and heard of companion in Motup and a good team his exploits since he had left us in the of Sherpas and porters. We had seen Jugal. He looked very fit and had the way of life and happiness of the obviously had a whale of a time Nepalese, and we had worked through despite the theft of money. It was the one or two minor difficulties that good to have him with us again, and inevitably happen on a trip of this have the team complete for the length. Most of all, we seven trekkers remaining two days ofexiting from the came to know, understand and mountains. appreciate one another in a way that only a successful team can do. We were now well into regular trekking country and met many other trekkers, quite a few from America and Germany. Passing through villages we saw water powered prayer wheels placed in the channels for irrigation The trekking party consisted of ditches, thus providing both essential water and prayers for good crops of DerekBush lice, sorghum or potato. Rather more unusual was a small wind driven Albert Chapman prayer wheel, perfectly pivoted and with four small propellers to drive it Ian Crowther round. AlanKay

Continuing down valley, we had a Roy Pomfret very long day to Syabru, with much climbing up and down, including David Smith crossing a truly huge landslip which had probably fallen during the George Spence1ey

The YRC Bulletin 21 Summer 1996 Constipation, Paraffin sickness. The most exciting incident occurred early in the trip when a porter and other things... tried to encourage the camp fire with the Expedition Doctor's Notes kerosene. The resultant explosion looked Rory Newman and sounded potentially disastrous and set Expedition doctoring turned out to be off a ring of subsidiary fires. The porter easier than I had feared. Most of the work was blown upwards and backwards but his and nearly all the worry took place before only injury came from biting through his departure. A lot can be done to avoid own bottom lip in surprise. The most problems during the trip by advising and serious problem encountered on the encouraging expedition members about expedition was also kerosene related. sensible precautions and preparations. Another porter, carrying a leaky container, There are awkward decisions to be made walked all day with his shirt soaked in it about what to take and what to leave while his pack rubbed. This removed most behind. To some extent the area and of the skin from his back - the equivalent of activities affect this but there are also second-degree bum. I treated him with constraints of weight, size and cost. soothing antiseptic lotions, dressings, There's no point in taking drugs or antibiotics and painkellers so that he was equipment that nobody in the party is improving by the time he set off for home competent to use and it's impossible to from base-camp wearing one of my clean allow for every eventuality. shirts as I was running short of clean For the Nepal trip I took the approach dressings. It was also interesting, though that I should be equipped to treat most frustrating, to see and try to treat people in problems that can be treated effectively on the remote villages on our return journey. the spot without intensive technological It is surprising how far you can get with support. I reckoned we could improvise sign language and a little bit of splints, stretchers, neck supports and the interpretation. No real medical help is like if needed. I'm afraid that given the available in these villages as medical care difficulties of communication and is two or three day's walk away. Too far evacuation from the climbing expedition to bother for minor problems and still too base-camp I considered that very major far for seriously ill patients. medical problems or injuries would My general impressions of Nepal are that probably be fatal in spite of treatment. it is much the friendliest country I've Therefore I didn't take appropriate visited and the place I felt safer there treatments. I used the same rather nihilistic wandering about on my own in the cities, approach to equipping the trekking as well as the wilderness, than anywhere expedition by not giving them anything I else. As with any 'developing' country, the didn't think that they would be able to use. real problems come where western and Apart from the appropriate medications, local cultures are juxtaposed. etc., for a party away for six weeks, I'd The people in the more remote villages taken specific treatments for altitude live a fairly hard life of subsistence sickness, snow blindness and frostbite. farming but the older ones and the children Either those decisions were correct or we seem satisfied and cheerful. The younger were lucky as we had what we needed adults wonder what they are missing and except perhaps a real dynamite treatment dream of the supposed delights of for constipation: a problem I had not Kathmandu. On the other hand, small anticipated in Nepal. I'd be happy to children can wander about the countryside discuss what to take and how to organise unmolested and without fear, so perhaps doctoring an expedition with anyone else civilisation isn't all it's cracked up to be. faced with the task. I ended up doing less medicine and more Medical problems on the trip were climbing than I'd expected and so enjoyed mostly the predictable diarrhoea, coughs, myself very much. If I get another chance colds, minor injuries, etc. plus mild altitude I would certainly go back.

The YRC Bulletin 22 Summer 1996 IS D?

(dedicated to the memory of the late Dr. Roger Allen)

I fain would know the siren Goddess, careless in Her wild dominions. Now enticing, now rejecting those who'd mountaineer.

We sought to know this awful Goddess who, in frightful Nordic beauty cast Her deadly glance upon us, We who'd mountaineer.

And so I knelt before the Goddess in Her shining Asian temple. Now she smiled serenely on me, I who'd mountaineer.

Think not to know this fickle Goddess throned in her pale pavilions Bitter sweet the thralldom is, of he who'd mountaineer.

W. C. I. Crowther November 1995

The YRC Bulletin 23 Summer 1996 Ascent of Naya Kanga mess tents complete with tables and chairs. Tea and biscuits were 17th October 1995 provided, preceded by what was to F.D. Smith become a ritual hand washing in a solution of permanganate of potash. Having settled into our individual In the summer of 1994 a number of canvas homes we were next provided Y.R.C. members attended the funeral with bowls ofhot water to wash away of a much loved friend, Frankie the dust and sweat of the journey; Waterfall, the wife of our member such unexpected luxury. Sidney. It was here that the seed was born, Albert Chapman, my good The chosen route to Naya Kanga was friend of forty years, and my wife far from a normal trekking route, it Elspeth conspired, the result was that took us broadly up the Chyochyo I placed my name on the Clubs meet Danda (ridge) through many small list for Nepal in October 1995. hamlets like Orkin, Chang Samparphu and Nasem Pati to the holy lakes at Reading much literature on the area it Pach Pochari 14650 ft, the site of appeared that there was a possibility many Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimages. that some of the trekking party might We might have been in the Lake attempt Naya Kanga, a spectacular District were it not for a prayer flag 19180 foot (5846 m) snow peak and the dilapidatedroofless buildings. designated as a trekking peak. It was described in Bill O'Connors book, On our first rest day Motup our 'Trekking Peaks in the Himalaya' as 'Malla Trek' leader, a remarkably well PD Alpine grade and well within my educated and interesting Ladakhi and I own capabilities. It had the attraction were charged with exploring the route of being one of the hardest of the ahead with a view to crossing into the trekking peaks. Langtang valley via the celebrated Tilman Pass West. The prospect of Our expedition from Kathmandu getting the porters up to the pass and started with a bus ride to Chautara a down a possible steep snow descent village of 2000 people 12 kilometres was not good, though it was the clear north east ofthe capital. It was good aspiration of two of the trekkers. to get away from the polluted air and After four hours of hard and steep the fly-infested butchers' dens and the ascent keeping pace with an disgusting squalid rivers. The journey extraordinarily agile and fit sherpa, we was to say the least exciting, as it were still quite a way from a sighting twisted and wound round the of either the col or the Linshing mountainsides. Many times the road Glacier, the mist descended and light disintegrated into mud 12 inches or rain fell. It was with some reluctance more deep or over huge stones or that we had to advise the trekkers that deep ruts. The landscape held our TilmanPass was probably impractical. interest, we saw deep ravines, waterfalls, picturesque groups of The following day we returned to houses and wonderfully terraced farm Nasem Pati then southwest to Yarsa land not unlike the wine terraces of at 6000 feet before a spectacular Switzerlandbut with cereal crops. crossing of the Indravwati Kho1a (river) and finally heading northwest On arrival at Chautara it was great to to Ripar on the Yangri Khola at 6900 see 16 tents already erected and two feet. The route took us through leech

The YRC Bulletin 24 Summer 1996 infested paths, though weird moss It was a 5 am start for the day, and covered and enormous rhododendron after a quick breakfast we roped up to trees often draped with beautiful cross the glacier at 6 am. Motup, hanging moss. It took us up and myself and the President on one rope down ridges losing and regaining two and Kazi and Ian on the other. or three thousand feet with each ridge, Although crevassed we did not have Our remarkable porters, some carrying any problems. Snow level had two of our bags each weighing in the changed drastically since Bill region of 45 pounds plus their own O'Connor wrote his account. We sacks moved with remarkable balance then ascended a shallow rock gully along the narrow track, down steep which is usually a snow couloir to gain mud slopes, or on rocky ground and the snow boss and the series ofridges most had either bare feet or wore flip­ that would take us to the summit. flops. The slope was probably about 50 plus The next stage was along the Thorka degrees; the snow was fairly soft but Danda, but as none of the support harder underneath in places. There party had any knowledge ofthe area, a was always a danger of windslab but local man was engaged by the sirdar fortunately it never developed. The to lead us through a very complicated rarefied air, however, did have its terrain including an incredibly steep effect; we were only managing about gully. How the table carriers coped twenty paces before each brief halt, was truly amazing. We had three but we were making progress. camps at 13000 feet, 15000 feet and Bamboo cones collected on route 16000 feet with views of the Yangri through the vegetated areas were left Khola as it wended its way towards a convenient intervals to enable us to our objective, the Ganga La, a pass return in safety should it become 16800 feet which would take us into misty. The mist descended even the Langtang Valley and for me, before we had reached the final snow nearer to my objective, Naya Kanga. pyramid. Now the views were becoming more It was 1.30 pm when we eventually and more spectacular.with the majestic reached our objective, the easterly snow peaks coming into our vision. summit, the true summit was about 30 We descended the northern slopes and feet higher connected by the most were surprised to discover that there slender ofsnow ridges that I have ever was no deep soft snow that we had seen, falling on either side at perhaps been led to expect. Descending about 80 degrees. It would certainly have 1000 feet or so, Albert, Ian, Derek been foolhardy to have attempted to and I along with Motup and a young cross it and certainly it would have sherpa, Kazi, headed for a level glacier taken many hours to force a crossing. to our high camp. Three porters and Motup had clearly decided that it was two sherpas arrived before us and not sensibleeven to by, we concurred. erected four tents, two for the It was misty by now and photographs climbers and Motup, the other two for would be disappointing but we took the rest of the party. A meal was the obligatory group shot before prepared and we retired to our retuming by the same route. I was not sleeping bags. Unfortunately Albert looking forward to the descent as the developed a back problem and had to snow would have deteriorated. Derek pull out ofthe final assault. lead off with Motup at the back

The YRC Bulletin 25 Summer 1996 safeguarding us. The flag cones were sherpa with a teapot of hot lemon a great help, several times Derek was covered with a towel. Norbu had in relieved to see the next one ahead. It fact been up on the ridge at 11.00 with took just 2 hours to reach the rocks hot drinks for us. But returned as again. Motup thought we might save Kazi had advised him that we were an hour by going straight down alright and that we would not have instead of returning via the glacier and wanted him to risk injury joining us. risking crevasse difficulties. Kazi and Motup carried on down and The way down was over huge jammed rached the camp at 4.30 am very tired. boulders or loose scree, this was made Clearly we had made the right decision more difficult as it began to snow. in staying put. Back down at the Motup and I went ahead to find the camp we were fed and as a treat the easiest route but it became three of us shared a large tin of increasingly hard and slower. Dusk mangos. And so to our sleeping bags was quickly replaced by darkness, for a deep one hour sleep before the time was moving on apace by 10 pm walk down to the Langtang Khola and we decided that enough was enough on to Kyangjin and the Gyalisham and elected to bivi. I found a suitable Gompa. The path was extremely huge boulder to shelter under and we pleasant through beautiful woodlands settled down for the night. and with superb views of the shapely Lantang Lirug and its neighbours. For Motup was some way away looking the first time we saw trekkers, during for an easy descent and Kazi decided the past two weeks we had only seen to join him as he did not have any two Germans and two Spaniards. extra clothes. Derek and Ian were not too happy with their situation but my Our return to Kathmandu was along own experience of being benighted in the Langtang Khola through many the Alps helped me to treat the picturesque villages, passing prayer situation with less anxiety. Hourly walls and gompas to Syabru and on to time checks were requested and Dunche for our final camp and a eventually it was 5.30 am, it was now hectic bus ride to the capital. A light so we decided to make a move. remarkably competent piece of driving Hardly had we been going half an hour on quite impossible roads, negotiating oncoming vehicles with vital precision than we were met by Norbu a remarkably conscientious young and in some places on none existent roads. The whole expedition gave us fulfilment, it gave us time to reflect, it was a period of strenuous and sustained activity, a clear bond had developed between trekkers, sherpas and porters. We would all return home changed and more tolerant individuals.

lan Crowther, David Smith and Derek Bush with Naya Kanga in the background

The YRC Bulletin 26 Summer 1996 Expedition Diary through the sleeve whenever the entrance is opened. Andy placed some overboots 1957 - Nepal under my feet by way of insulation and Maurice Wilson this has made a lot of difference. April 28, Camp 1. We started rather April 30, Camp 3. This terrible day later than usual this morning, as we had started with difficulties with the primus to move two boxes of food up to Camp 2. stove. As a result, we had little breakfast. Indeed, the sun was already on the upper Still, it was a beautiful morning and, in glacier before we reached it. We are view of the behaviour of the stove, Andy becoming more adept at scrambling up and I decided that it would not be fair to the short rock pitch flanking the icefall. ask Crosby and George to say here at On the glacier, the snow was softening Camp 3, as arranged, by way of support and I found the going rather slow, and we to us at Camp 4. Accordingly, we set off took at least half an hour longer than for Camp 4 with a box and a bag offood, usual. Andy was willing to go on to expecting to meet them. Camp 3, but I didn't feel up to it. In fact, It was an interesting route through the as we started to descend the glacier I icefall, finishing high on its right flank realised I was not well and was very under some cliffs. There followed a most pleased to reach Camp 1. I think it was tedious traverse in soft snow, to Camp 4. the porridge we had this morning which We could see Crosby's party on the didn't go down too well. glacier way beyond, but they had not left In the afternoon, it became very dark and us any note. I suppose they wanted to soon thunder and lighting were let loose. take advantage of the sudden change of I was afraid it might loosen some of the weather. We left them a note and then set rock above us but, fortunately, the storm off back. only lasted half an hour. I don't like this To our surprise, when we reached Camp camp site. Quite close, seracs are 3 the stove burst into life, so we had a collapsing in the icefall, and crevasses brew. However, we hadn't been there opening up. Behind us, towers a cliff much more than on hour when George with stones and small boulders hurtling turned up with his dreadful story. down from time to time. Andy has just looked in to say that the nearest stone He, Crosby, Mingma and Myla had been stopped only 20 feet away. passing beneath a hanging glacier when the snout of it broke loose. In seconds April 29, Camps 1-3. For the first time, they were all hurled into a crevasse. the early morning weather looked Somehow or other, George managed to unpromising and the sky was overcast, climb out. He scraped and dug for a long the sun having a job to shine through. time but was unable to extricate the rope Nevertheless, we set out from Camp 1 at to Crosby or reach anyone else. We fear about 6.45am and, after the usual trudge all are lost. reached Camp 2 in 2 hours. We had a rest here and then continued up to Camp As soon as we could, Pemba and I set off 3. Again the snow was soft and the going down to Camp 1 where we found the tiring. We met Arthur and Dan on their others. Dan and Ang Temba set off, at way down. once, to Base Camp for entrenching tools. I shared a tent with Arthur. We finally reached Camp 3 about 10.30 am in poor visibilityand a very cold wind. It was a melancholy gathering. We all Turned in and had some soup. My feet felt so completely helpless and yet, are very cold and I can't get them warm, praying for a miracle. The Sherpas as the lilo is saturated and the sleeping chanted some mournful tune all night and bag not much better. Snow drives in I got no sleep.

The YRC Bulletin 27 Summer 1996 A Summer's Climbing Dream Jon Riley Whilst the club was meeting in the Picos de Europa, Claire and I left Spain and drove into France to sample some of the fantastic low level rock climbing. Although none ofthe areas that we went to are new, I thought it was worth writing about them in case you had never considered trying sport climbing in France. The first thing you need to realise is that many French people regard climbing as a sport similar to tennis or golfwhereas many British people regard climbing as 'a on 8a moves before hopelessly lobbing way of life'. This difference in off into space - not true (most of the attitude leads to some differences in time). In fact in France you will find style, probably the most obvious all ages and abilities climbing. We saw example being bolting. 7 year olds leading well bolted V.Diffs and whole families going out climbing The French love bolts! Take for together, retiring to the shady cafes in example the crag at Orpierre. The the village during the heat of the day whole village is geared up for rock and returning to the crag to climb in climbing, You buy a topo for 10 the evening. francs in any bar or shop and arrive at the crag 15 minutes later carrying only I can hear you all asking 'Are there a 60m rope, 10 quick draws, rock any draw backs to this climbing boots, chalk bag and wearing your paradise?'. Well yes. Claire and I harness a pair of shorts, a climbing really enjoyed our time at Orpierre, we vest and sandals - no need for a climbed 6 routes a day for a week rucsac, no spare clothing, bivi gear, non- stop, but by the end of that time big boots, flares, whistles, maps, we started not to care about the compasses and all the other parafinalia quality of routes, more the quantity, that escorts climbers everywhere in and I cannot honestly say I remember Britain! all the moves of anyone climb - it all sort of blends into one. Unlike say Once you start climbing you realise Botterills Slab or Gimmer Crack or how much fun sport climbing can be Old Lace on Earl Crag, there are very because you are not wobbling on the few obvious lines, many ofthe moves crux of a climb as your marginal are very similar and the bolts mean protection falls out and shoots down that you don't really get worried which the rope to your belayer. Instead you tends to be what I remember most! can confidently cruise the crux with a However I wholeheartedly resin bolt at waist height. A popular recommend a weeks climbing there misconception is that all sport whether you go to climb purely for climbers climb wildly overhanging enjoyment or to push your grade in a routes flexing there enormous muscles safe and friendly environment.

'111C YRC Bulletin 28 Summer 1996 Ifhowever you want something a little Useful tips: more adventurous then may I suggest a gobsmaking route at Buis-les­ 1. We found that Bill Birketts 'French Baronnies. As you drive towards the Rock' was very useful, it gives an village your eyes are drawn to what overview of the major sport climbing looks like a clean wall of limestone crags in France and although it doesn't about 300' high and a mile long, with list all the routes you can buy a topo pinnacles along the top similar to when you anive. Guide book available Bristly Ridge on Tryfan. However as from David Hall at Base Camp (little you drive past the end ofit you realise plug there David, I will collect the that it is about 2' wide! The route commission later!). follows the crest ofthis amazing fin of rock. The Traversee Des Aretes is 2. You need to drink gallons of water technically about VS 4b but the so we used a Camelbak each, for incredibly exposed position rivals anyone who has never heard of a many routes that I have climbed in the Camelbak its a bag with a drinking Alps. In all a traverse takes about 7 tube that you carry in a pouch on your hours and descent is by abseil and back so that you can drink whilst chain handlines down the south face. moving around, I no longer use a As with all classic routes the ClUX is at water bottle I put one ofthese into my the end and I suggest that you start rucsac and when I need to drink I just early in the morning and carry lots of suck - no need to even stop! Brilliant water because it is in the sun all day. for climbing long hot routes, it holds about 1.5 litres and the opening is big You only need a small rack of gear enough for ice cubes, amazingly and a few quick draws as the ClUX has enough the liquid stays lovely and some bolts on it. We also found that a cool. Base Camp may sell them, ifnot 60 metre rope was invaluable as we by a bike shop as they are very just reached the belay stances some of popular with cyclists. . which were equipped with bolts and pegs. I will never forget belaying 3. Take at least 60m of rope. A Claire, as she climbed up the knife 45/50m one is next to useless on many edge arete at the start of the route French crags. Indeed you can spot the with both ofmy legs dangling in space British climbers as they are the ones on either side of the crest as the sun dangling five metres above the next rose up behind us, absolutely stuuning. abseil point! Double 45m ropes are ideal.

If anyone requires any more information please contact me as I have a load of top os, guide books and pictures. I can really recommend it.

The YRC Bulletin 29 Summer 1996 Eastern Greenland David Laughton

Will Lacy and David Laughton spent the last two weeks ofAugust, 1995 in the Arctic. They flew up to Longyearbyen in Spitsbergen where they joined a small Russian ice­ strengthened ship, The Professor Molchanov. Their fellow passengers were a mixed bunch of Dutch, inside the entrance. This has now German, Austrian and 18 South grown to some 500 people and given Africans plus a couple ofother Brits. ­ the Greenlandic name of 38 in all. Ittoqqortoormiit. As a current prominent citizen of Whitby Will Lacy Only one day was spent in is keen to develop a relationship Spitsbergen looking around between Whitby and Scoresbysund in Longyearbyen (rapidly developing its recognition of Scoresby's (Senior & tourist industry) then crossing Isfjord Junior) links with the town and the for a long walk around the huge bird fact that they are second only to Cook cliffs of Alkhomet. The ship then in the towns historic links with sailed for N.E. Greenland, a smooth exploration at sea. Willhad taken with crossing of two days SW aiming for him presents from the Mayor of Myggebukten on Hold With Hope. Whitby and proposals for closer links. U~ortunately very thick pack ice, which had first been encountered half The ship did manage to enter the fjord after much banging and crashing way across, the Greenland Sea, prevented an approach closer than 30 through the ice but was not initially miles. Now also in thick fog, it was able to approach the village However decided to head south for Scoresby the fjord was navigable although Sund (70 ON) where a satellite ice littered with thousands of icebergs, report showed more prospect of ranging from foot wide blocks to 1,4 getting ashore. mile long monsters. A week was spent exploring the fjord, landing at least Scoresby Sund is the largest fjord in once a day for extensive walks over the world, 15 miles wide at the the tundra and climbing some of the entrance and reaching inland some 200 minor peaks. The scenery and the miles as far as the Greenland ice cap. weather were magnificent. To the It was discovered by William north lay the snow clad Stauning Alps Scoresby, a very successful Whitby and to the south the Watkin whaler, in 1822. Although there had Mountains with huge rock walls, split been a few very small Innuit (Eskimo) by glaciers coming right down to the settlements on the banks of the fjord sea. There was also plenty of wildlife many centuries ago it was not until with musk-ox grazing on the slopes, 1925 that the Danish government, Snowy Owls, Gyr Falcon, and many then administering Greenland, set up a flocks of Snow Bunting plus Black new settlement also called Throated Diver, geese and many Scoresbysund on the north bank just varieties ofseabirds.

The YRC Bulletin 30 Summer 1996 Before leaving the fjord another Humiliation at attempt was made to reach the settlement, the approach to which still Caverna Corredores. looked impossible. However the very John Middleton. experienced Russian captain eventually forced a way through and Caverna Corredores is a highly in brilliant sunshine a landing was sporting river cave situated in the made. Accompanied by a Danish impressive 300m deep Corredores interpreter Will and David attended a Gorge some 4km north of the Costa meeting of the town council where Rican town of Ciudad Neily. The Will presented the Whitby gifts and gorge is clothed in dense primary rain accepted gifts in return. 111e locals still forest and is home to an abundant live mainly by hunting; so far this year fauna including monkeys, Jaguars, they have killed and eaten 60 polar snakes, and parrots, The cave has a bears as well as a number of musk-ox surveyed length of 1700m and this and innumerable seals. Unfortunately together with the surrounding karst drink appears to be a major problem was investigated by the Americans in and at 5 pm the shop started to sell 1989 and Canadians in 1990. Our visit alcohol with the depressing sight of all in 1995 (my son and me) coincided ages coming away with cartons of with the wet season making the forest, beer and bottles of stronger stuff, river, and cave doubly challenging. several already drunk. The tortuous route up the gorge requires prior knowledge and for this Farewells were said and the. ship we were assisted by the 19 year old battled its way through very thick ice daughter of the owner of the small out to sea to drop off the passengers hotel were we stayed. Maybe the trip at Akureyri in northern Iceland. This would be easier than we thought...... last 33 hour leg was enlivened by five large Humpback whales playing The derelict dirt road turned left and around the ship for almost an hour. An bumped steeply uphill into the early overnight stop in Reykjavik then home morning mist. We changed direction accompanied on the plane by 45 onto an indefinite track between the youthful members of a British Schools Exploration Society expedition to Iceland. L. ~~~:::::::::::::::::::::: -. , ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::':'!::-Io----'~--..,,... iiiijjjiiijiji~~jiiii)ijiiiiij~i~::.. ,~'"----' ... ~ lllllllll.:·:·.:.~::-.:

TIle YRC Bullain 31 Summer 1996 long grass. We stopped abruptly. An directly at us. We retreated calmly and extremely long but beautifully marked in good order consoling ourselves snake silently slithered across our with the fact that the survey said this path. "Mucho peligroso" (very passage didn't go anywhere anyway! dangerous) exclaimed Leticia with a The other large formation filled gallery big grin. We continued into the forest, gradually made a slippery, meandering dismissing any other ideas we might descent to the main river, the Rio have had about dusky senoritas and Guaymi. This completely filled the long grass, determinedly looking floor of a IOm wide superbly eroded down and treading faithfully in her tunnel. Downstream led quickly to a exact footsteps. We negotiated fallen sump whilst to the right was over trees, swamps, plants with vicious 500m of magnificent challenging thorns and others with disabling streamway. At its end the passage stings. Then came the river. A 20m continued dry but in a much smaller wide torrent of foaming white water. way whilst the river emerged sump Leticia and her friend Christina waded like from the right hand wall. Out to straight in and with much laughter impress, we swam straight in arrived soaked but safely on the bank negotiating two small ducks within the directly opposite us. We stumbled, first 30m before the passage again slipped, slithered, and arrived half enlarged and our feet touched the drowned many metres downstream. bottom. We looked back and were Five more life threatening crossings amazed and very impressed to find had to be undertaken before we Leticia and Christina directly behind landed on a small beach opposite the us - they had never swum in a cave cave. Behind us was Caverna Alma, before let alone negotiate two ducks! notable mainly for its small population More grand gallery followed and then ofVampire bats, whilst SOm upstream the inevitable sump but just a few and on the other side, the powerful metres back a crawl invited inspection. Rio Guaymi burst forth from the cliff We looked at it intently, the girls down a Srn waterfall. We made one rushed straight in. "Arafia" (spider), final and reasonably dignified river Christina excitedly shouted from up crossing before again being humbled front. We raced forward just in time to on the 6m climb to the entrance. Here hear a loud "splat" and arrive to see our ham-fisted attempt created much several 10cm long legs and a squashed entertainment whilst the girls lithely body beneath her fist! The crawl then swarmed up the vertical mud and tree progressed into a rift and looped back roots. to join the dry section of the main passage. A highly satisfying and The dry entrance was big, maybe 12m incident free return was then made to wide and 6m high and led into a well the entrance. decorated chamber with two ways on. To the right an impressively large With not an undue degree of passageway gradually gave way to an apprehension we followed our leaders extensive bat roost and associated down to the river wondering what our stinking guano covered floor. Massive downstream techniques might be. pseudoscorpions, cave crickets, They proved remarkably simple, just cockroaches, and other nightmarish throw yourselfin a deep bit, get swept creatures scuttled everywhere. away, and grab the first sizeable Suicidal bats aimed themselves boulder to slow progress! Bruised and

The YRC Bulletin 32 Summer 1996 battered and with a massive overdose Nicoya peninsular (mainly shafts into of adrenalin coursing through us we formation filled chambers - Santa eventually made it back and stumbled Anna -24Om), on the eastern side of high spiritedlyinto Neilys nearest bar. the Gulf of Nicoya, inland from Quepos, and around Puerto Limon. Some cave, some gorge, some river, We also visited the first three some day, and most of all some girls! mentioned areas and enjoyed many We definitely couldn't have made it more adventures amongst very without them or am I just getting old? friendly people. Potential for new discoveries is obviously considerable In Costa Rica, limestone and karstic but none are likely to be of any great features have also been recorded on lengths or depth. There is a small the Santa Elena Peninsular (reasonable active caving organisation in the cockpit karst), around Venado capital, San Jose. (Caverna Vernado lkm plus), on the

Cueva del Gato Jon Riley An account of a trip through a cave in southern Spain

It had taken us a lot oftime to find out about this caving trip. Even after exhaustive information gathering in dreadful Spanish and sign language, entrance in the shape of a slot, c30' we had very little to go on. We knew wide and 90' high, in the middle ofthe that it was a through trip of about 5 face and to the East by a 200' concrete km with lots of swimming, some big dam! caverns and pull-through abseils. We were pretty sure that we had parked at The Spanish had built the dam in the the correct exit, an impressive gash in hope ofcatching water between it and the cliff face from which a small the cliff face and the story goes that stream flowed. We had a vague idea for a time it did hold some water, until ofwhere the entrance was, though we suddenly the level dropped and the hadn't actually seen it, for all we knew water disappeared into the ground, we could have been going into one leaving the dam wall high and dry. It cave and parking outside ofthe exit to was only after several attempts at somewhere completely different! plugging the holes with everything from concrete to dynamite that the The entrance to the Cueva del Gato Spanish discovered this enOlIDOUS (Cat Cave) lies in the bottom of a cave, put two and two together and steep sided gorge blocked at both linked the disappearance of the water ends, to the West by a cliff, similar in from the reservoir to the massive height to Malham Cove, with the cave flooding ofthe river in the next valley!

The YRe Bulletin 33 Summer 1996 whether the cave entrance has since dead end. We felt a mixture of relief been enlarged by man or nature we are and anxiety because it had taken us still unsure. We think that the next half an hour and we had made little stage in the history ofthe cave was for progress into the cave however it it to become a show cave of some tumed out that this was the only sort, because as you walk in you awkward piece ofroute finding. follow a series ofman made platforms and ramps. Throughout the cave you After the abseils we found ourselves can see old timber walkways and swimming in canals with similar platforms at the most spectacular proportions to Kingsdale Master Cave formations. in static water with just the sound of our flaring carbide lamps to punctuate After walking along in the enonnous the silence. Really the only thing that entrance passageway for about ten worried us was getting trapped by minutes we came to the first pool with some of the submerged walkway that a handline down into it and apparently we were swimming alongside. After no return once you let go! The water about a kilometre of swimming, was extremely cold as we slid in and broken only by large boulders to rest swam the few metres across the pool on, the water abruptly ended and we to struggle out at the other side, at found ourselves in a large perfectly this point three of our patty decided circular chamber with a 15' high white that maybe caving wasn't such a great stalagmite boss dead in the centre, idea after all and turned back, leaving certainly one of the most amazing Stuart and me to carry on. formations that I have ever seen. The chamber was followed by some lower There really is nothing like caving with wider passages with sand and clay very little information as to what floors which then plunged into another comes next to sharpen your senses and canal section ending in a tall thin keep you excited and we had to make boulder strewn dry chamber with a it up as we went along when we came wall that had been covered in calcite, to what appeared to be a dead end it was perfectly white and reflected sump. We decided to double back a our light illuminating the large cavern. short way and soon found two very This was quickly followed by a final thin steel cables in the roof one above swim before smelling the outside the other, spanning a 30' deep pit with world, feeling the heat of a southern an old wooden ladder on the other Spanish summer and once again being side. Unfortunately I was the lighter in daylight. so I got the dubious pleasure of testing the traverse first. With my feet We allowed ourselves to be taken on the low cable and my hands and downstream by the gentle current and cows tails clipped into the upper cable almost caused an elderly Spanish I slowly edged across to the other side woman to fall of a bridge at the looking straight down into the pit, I entrance as she thought we were two reached the other side and waited for dead bodies floating past! We met Stuart and then climbed the rickety with the others at the cafe and they ladder to find myself looking down recounted the story of their trip back into a chamber with the way on to the car in the back of an empty marked by a series of pools and pull meat wagon who's driver had given through abseils, we had bypassed the them a lift. We realised that in fact the

'111C YRC Bulletin 34 Summer 1996 trip had taken us about five hours and challenging swimming and amazing we had swum and waded for about scenery. Remember though to take a 2.5 km ofthe 5km trip. In all it was a thick wetsuit! great through trip with some

INFORMATION

Location: The Cueva del Gato is found about four miles outside of Ronda which has stunning views of Benacoan on the road to Ronda in the the gorge and is about 20 minutes Grazelema national park in Andalucia. from the cave.

Situation: The whole area is fantastic Travelling: I think the best way to get karst scenery, has enormous potential to this area would be to fly to Malaga for caving and is relatively unexplored. and from there hire a car and drive to The exit is found on the left of the Ronda. road when heading towards Ronda, there is a small bar near the exit that Season: The cave shows signs of has a large wall survey of the cave catastrophic flooding and is not be a and from this you can find the good place to get caught out, however entrance which is on the other side of this is southern Spain and floods of Benacoan. this size are very rare so a through trip is possible throughout the year. Accommodation: This area of Spain has few regulations so you can wild Equipment: You need a harness with camp just about anywhere. Benacoan cows tails, a figure of eight or Stop to has a Scotsman who resides in the abseil on and a 35 Metre rope. A village and rents out apartments for good quality, thick, full wetsuit is up to eight people at reasonable rates. essential and ifyou are unsure ofyour If you fancy a touch of luxury you swimming ability a buoyancy aid could stay in the Parador hotel in would be a sensible precaution.

A World Caving Update As At December 1994 J.R.Middleton. Since 1992** world caving with 7 over 50km.. The only major up­ exploration has continued at a frenetic set to the British charts is the amazing pace. Long caves have become longer, arrival of Ogof Ddraenon which was deep ones deeper, and many new ones explored from virtually nil metres to have appeared on the scene. By the over 20km in barely 3 months! end of 1994 there were some 47 systems over 1000m in depth and 28 Another statistic is for Nohoch Nah over 50km in length. Chich, 40km long, and the Cenote dos Spain dominates the depth charts with Ojos, 30km long, both only 5km apart 10 over 1000m to be followed closely and likely to be connected shortly in by Austria with 8, whilst the USA Quintan Roo, Yucatan, Mexico. continues to lead the length listings Good, but not amazing you might say

The YRCBulletin 35 Summer 1996 until you realise that ALL the 70km so providing me with these lists and far explored is UNDERWATER! allowing the club to publish them.

Once again I must thank Tony **For 1992 see the YRC Journal Waltham and Claud Chaubert for Vo1.Xl NoAO.

THE WORLDS LONGEST CAVES. 22 Akemati 1226m Mexico 1 Mammoth Cave System 560ktnUSA, Kentucky 23 Schwersystem 1219m Austria 2 Optimisticeskaya 183km Ukraine 24 ComplessoFighera Corchia 3 Holloch 156km Switzerland 1215m Italy Appenines 4 Jewel Cave 144.8km USA, South Dakota 25 Veliko Sbrego 1198m Slovenia 5 Siebenhegstehoh1en System 126km Switz. 6 Wind Cave 113.3km USA, South Dakota 7 Ozernaya l11km Ukraine BRITAINS DEEPEST CAVES 8 Gua Air Jernih 106km Sarawak 1 OgafFfynnon Ddu 308m South Wales 9 Lechuguilla 106km USA, New Mexico 2 Giants-Oxlow System 214m Derbyshire 10 Fisher Ridge Cave 104.5km USA, Kentucky 3 Daren Cilau 213m South Wales 11 Sistema de Ojo Guarena 97.4km Spain, Burgos 4 Ease Gill Cave System 211m Yorks Dales 12 Reseau de la Coume d Hyouernede 5 GinglingHole 210m Yorks Dales 90.5km France, Pyrenees 6 Penyghent Pot 196m Yorks Dales 13 Zoluska 85.5km Ukraine 7 Gaping Gill System 195m Yorks Dales 14 Sistema Purification 79.1km Mexico 8 Ireby-Notts System 183m Yorks Dales 15 Ease Gill Cave System 70.5km England 9 Peak-Speedwell System 182m Derbyshire 16 Hirlatzhoh1e 70km Austria 10 Meregill 181m Yorks Dales 17 Rauucherkarhoh1e 70km Austria 11 Poll na Gceim 181m Clare 18 Friars Hole System 69.2km USA,West Virginia 12 Reyfad Pot 179m Fermanagh 19 Organ Cave System 60.5km USA,.West V'na 13 Longwood Swallet 175m Somerset 20 Red del Silencio 60km Spain, Picos 14 Long Kin West 174m Yorks Dales 21 Toca da Boa Vista 60km Brazil 15 Swildons Hole 167m Somerset 22 Reseau de 1 Alp 56.7km France, Alps 16 West Kingsdale System 165m Yorks Dales 23 Kap-Kutan-Promezutocnaja 55km Turkmenistan 17 Dale Head Pot 165m Yorks Dales 24 Reseau de la Dent de Crolles 55km France,Alps 18 Ogof Agen Allwedd 160m South Wales 25 Mamo Kanada 54.8km Papua New Guinea 19 Nettle Pot 159m Derbyshire 20 Tatham Wife Hole 158m Yorks Dales THE WORLDS DEEPEST CAVES 1. Reseau Jean Bernard 1602m France, Alps 2 Lamprechtsofen 1550m Austria BRITAINS LONGEST CAVES 3 GouffreMirolda 1520m France, Alps 1 Ease Gill Cave System 70500m Yorks Dales 4 Shakta Pantjukhina 1508m Georgia 2 OgofFfynnon Ddu 50000m South Wales 5 Sistema del Trave 1441m Spain, Picos 3 Ogof Agen Allvedd 33000m South Wales 6 Boj Bulok 1415m Uzbekistan 4 Daren Cilau 27000m South Wales 7 Puerta de Illamina 1408m Spain,Pyrenees 5 Kingsdale Cave System 24000m Yorks Dales 8 Lukina Jama 1390m Croatia 60gofDdraenan 20000m South Wales 9 Sistema Cheve 1386m Mexico 7 Gaping Gill Cave System 16500m Yorks Dales 10 Ceki Jama 1370m Slovenia 8 Dan yr Ogaf l5000m South Wales 11 Sneznaja-Mezonnogo 1370m Georgia 9 Peak-Speedwell System 14000m Derbyshire 12 Sistema Huatla 1353m Mexico 10 Poulnagollam Poulelva 13000m Clare 13 Reseau de la Pierre St Martin 1342m France, 11 Slaughter Stream Cave 12000m Gloucestershire Pyrenees 12 Ireby-Notts System 11100m Yorks Dales 14 Siebenhegsthohlensystem 1284m Austria 13 Mossdale Caverns 10500m Yorks Dales 15 Reseau Berger 1278m France, Alps 14 Doolin St Catherines 10000m Clare 16 Platteneck-Bergerhohle 1265m Austria 15 Langc1iffe Pot 9600m Yorks Dales 17 Sima T27 1255m Spain, Picos 16 Swildons Hole 9100m Somerset 18 Tocca de los Rebecos 1255m Spain, Picos 17 Ogof Craig y Ffynnon 8600m South Wales 19 Abisso Paolo Roversi 1249m Italy,Appenines 18 Little Neath River Cave 8200m South Wales 20 Sistema V Iljukhin 1240m . Georgia 19 St Cuthberts Swallet 7100m Somerset 21 Abisso Ulififer 1230m Italy.Appenines 20 Reyfad Pot 6700m Fermanagh

The YRC Bulletin 36 Summer 1996 Under a Canopy in Tenerife light around the corner to a known February 1996 thermal source (a set of very large by Peter Price rock spines) and reported that there was lift available, so I followed. We lost height indulging in photography On the first day we woke to find that then the lift became harder to find so it had rained during the night and now we started scratching. After a while there was a low cloudbase. The wind I'd lost so much height that I couldn't was a strong easterly. A site was clear the ridge to get to the landing chosen and after checking out the area so to minimise the walk out I set landing area we drove to the top. out on a final glide down the valley I 'Blown Out!' - just like Pendle. Later, was in towards the motorway, on our way home we decided to look At about 150' agl I encountered the at the training site luckily it was about familiar feeling ofmy canopy pitching 100ft below cloudbase so we all had a upwards, damping the inevitable dive I flight or two here before heading off couldn't believe my vario ( nor could for a restaurant. the dogs who must have been The next day 'base was still low at deafened) 14 - 16 up and large I around 4000ft, just clearing the top of s~alied. a long slow 360° eventually the mountain that dominates the Los tightening on the core. On seeing this Am~ricas skyline, El Conde, so it was Daren, who was also low (about 800ft decided that the two more novice above me), headed into my thermal. pilots would fly the 'training slope' He mustn't have damped the dive and the rest ofus would go higher into forward on entering the thermal the mountains. I elected to fly last enough as the next thing I saw him after ensuring a clean launch for falling groundwards with a full frontal everyone then setting myselfup. deflatio~, recovering at around my During the launch I found that I'd start pomt. By this time our take off snapped a brake line so decided to fly became visible and everyone flying straight down the valley and, if I had was heading in my direction. It enough height, cross to the valley seemed that the only way was up and I with the landing fields. About halfway soon made cloudbase at about 5400ft. down I encountered a very smooth Looking below me I could see the large thermal which I cored. My aim melee ofpilots circling below. on this trip was to put into practice all I took the plunge and headed across I had learned about thermals. Using the valley to the mountain expecting everything I'd read or been told I to get hammered. However I only lost found that very soon I was at about 600ft which was soon replaced cloudbase. I mentioned my line break on the face of Conde. After about 30 to those who had already landed and minutes of popping in and out of my position to make sure I had a cloud, most of the pilots had made chance to gloat later in the pub. base or headed off for the beach to With my line repaired courtesy of the impress the tourists. I decided to head paraglider first aid kit, we were taken offfor Los Christianos as last year an back to the launch site for the early instructor had impressed us all by afternoon thermals to sort our doing this then spending the early stomachs out. evening soaring the sea cliffs there. Daren Williams, an experienced pilot, Following a compass bearing in cloud went first and had headed off to the I soon realised it is a long way, and

The YRC Bulletin 37 Summer 1996 very lonely compared to ridge soaring. 'Big Ears' when I thought I'd better Daren had followed the BEACH do something quick, first I tried large setting on his compass for 20 minutes brake on both sides - nothing, then I while not being able to descend from tried a large input on one side - the the cloud and found himself emerging wing started slowly at first to turn so I over the sea at about 5100ft giving thanked the Lord (audibly, I found out him plenty of time to impress the afterwards) and set up the landing and tourists on the beach with wingovers, landed safely a few minutes later. It spiral dives and asymmetrics all happened very fast and I only lost eventually doing a pinpoint landing, around 600ft but every second felt like between the nicest females on the an hour. beach, to a large round ofapplause. The trip continued to be a very steep At about halfway I was down to learning curve for everyone, even a below 4000ft but I still had the 'Sky God' like myself motorway, powerlines and a town to cross so keeping the speed bar full on Tenerife is an island of contrasts. The South I headed for what I'd been told could is barren, almost desert like, with the climate influenced mainly by the sea breezes. The be a source of thermals, a small hill North is green, moist and in general more just before the motorway it worked windy. The South is a major tourist and I was soon back up at base. destination with the resulting availablility of Arriving with over 5000ft over Los package deals and English speaking locals Christianos blew my mind I'd never Unlike the Alps there are few restrictions on free flight. Spanish law insists on a reserve, left the ridge before let alone flown there is no flying within the National Park over tower blocks. After a while I'd (Mt. Tiede) and it's advisable to contact had enough and decided to call for a local pilots. Landing out can mean a long retrieve. walk out, and/or an evening, extracting 'Can you pick me up please. ' 'Prickly Pear' spines out of various 'Yeh sure. Where are you?' extremities (Someone even had them penetrate the soles of sturdy flying boots!) 'The sea cliffs! '(smugly) The take off points are all high (even the Losing my height over hotel pools was 'Training slope' has a top to bottom height of fun, first a left hand spiral losing over 1700ft and it is possible to get away around 1500ft then a right handed from here and cover vast distances) and most spiral to unwind myself: of about are top driveable. Of the other sites I'd 2000ft it was then that I noticed my flown the year previously one was closed due to some German pilots upsetting the land drift was away from the sea cliffs, owner and the launch site of another had checking this with the boat anchored been moved due to complications with a land out to sea I realised that landing owner, emphasising that communication would be fun. In my excitement I had with local pilots is a good idea, flown up wind all the way and now I The added bonus of Tenerife is that out of seven days there is a good chance that all faced all the rotor coming in over the would be flyable. cliffs. I'd committed myself to land Our group of eight consisted of two here so I gently 360o'd until I instructors, two newly qualified pilots and encountered a 60170% asymmetric. four others of varying experience including This was dealt with but it didn't seem myself. We had all independently decided to go with 'Airborne' as they sorted everything right, everything was too quiet. I out from flights to retrieves, also it was looked down to see an already large possible for those without varios, radios, hotel getting larger very fast! Quickly reserves and the like to rent them. running over the manoeuvres in Canopy:- Swing Prisma (large) 'Instability' in my mind I'd just got to Experience» CP + 45 hours

The YRC Bulletin 38 Summer 1996 Finally, it is a great credit to this Club The President's that we were able to send 14 members, 1 prospective member and a Report guest to the Himalaya. Let us build on this success and, through the publicity as presented to the 103 rd AGM it will generate, it should help to stimulate the recruitment of active All YRC years are special, but 1995 new members. was doubly so because it was the year of the Himalayan Expedition. At the To return to more mundane club time of writing this report news has affairs. The average meet attendance just come through that the climbing of 21.4 was only slightly down on the team are safely off Dorje Lapka and 1994 figure of 22. This level has been back in Kathmandu. The news is that the norm for the past few years. This the team did not reach the summit, a year was probably helped by the long decision having been taken that snow hot summer which in turn helped to conditions were too dangerous. Any raise the climbing standards of some first feelings of disappointment are of our younger members. It gave me soon dismissed. The safety of all the great pleasure when on the LHG meet members is paramount and the in July Tim Bateman and Alistair climbing leader ~d Campion and his Renton came in rather late for dinner advisers are to be complimented on to announce almost casually that they making a very sound mountaineering had climbed Kipling Groove on decision. Recent events this summer Gimmer, the climb that used to be the elsewhere in the mountaineering world test piece of all the hard men of the bear out this judgement. 1950's and 60's.

I feel it is not my place to report either Another most enjoyable meet was the on the Trek or the Climbing Long Walk organised as a two day Expedition. This task quite lightly event in the Southern Uplands by lan belongs to the Climbing Leader and Crowther. The two overseas meets in Alan Kay, our Trek Leader and co­ Mallorca and the Picos d'Europa were ordinator of the whole expedition. also highly successful and seem set to There are many people to thank and be repeated in the not too distant these acknowledgements will be made future. The one cloud on the horizon as the various reports unfold. is the decline ofthe Spring Bank week However I feel, as I am sure the whole in Scotland. Expedition members do, that this trip would not have got off the ground The Club must decide very shortly ifa without the work of Alan Kay who change away from Scotland is researched it, organised it, did a huge desirable, or indeed ifthe meet should amount of fund raising and also be moved from a busy holiday period. twisted the arms of his employers not Finally, my thanks are due once again only to give a generous donation, but to all the meet organisers who put so also to waive numerous banking much effort into making our meets so charges which normal expeditions successful. would have had to bear. The Club owes Alan a huge debt. Considerable time, effort and money has gone into the improvements at

The YRC Bulletin 39 Summer 1996 both our huts in 1995. This applies particularly to Lowstem where at All members will have read in recent considerable cost the electrical circulars of the difficulty we are installations have been put right and at experiencing recruiting officers of the the last Committee Meeting approval Club, particularly for the key posts of was given for the installation of Treasurer and Secretary. Discussions storage heaters, a de-humidifier and will take place later in the meeting extractor fans to eliminate the when the Secretary will outline how humidity problem The Hut Wardens he would like his duties to be split. will report in more detail, but at last This is in line with how other Kindred LowStem will be a cottage of which Clubs operate. However, without we can be truly proud. volunteers coming forward all suggestions are worthless and this is a The YR.C. Bulletin is now well and heartfelt plea from a President, who truly off the ground thanks to the has himself served time, for members efforts of Michael Smith, our Editor to come forward and help in any way and ofcourse allthe contributors. possible. Ifthese posts cannot be filled satisfactorily, and I support both One very interesting article was incumbents in their determination to Arthur Evans's account of the leave their posts next November, then Corrugated Cracks and Janus climbs the result for the Club will be a huge on Elidir Fawr in 1937. This was in drop in standards in the management Bulletin No. 3. Then in Bulletin No. 4 ofour affairs. Tim Josephy describes how he repeated the climbs and is full of The other major disappointment has respect for such a lead before the 2nd been our failure to recruit new World War using Alpine line, wearing members. 1995 saw only one new tricouni shod boots and with no member join the Club. There are at protection. As Tim writes, AW.E. we least four prospective members in the stand in awe! Both gentlemen are here 'pipeline' and hopefully they and tonight, if they haven't got together others will help to boost next year's yet I am sure they will. These two membership articles alone convince me that the principle of a six monthly bulletin is Membership now stands at 185. There the road to go down. were two deaths in the year, Geoffrey Bates and Geoff Scovell and two Last year we debated at length the resignations, Steven Goulden and issue of women in the Club. This Andy Wells. Membership is broken caused many of us a lot of agonised down as under: heart-searching. The debate was conducted in relatively good humour. I 1995 11994 I think it was right to bring it out into Honorary Members 6 6 the open. The decision was made and Life Members 64 65 at the first Committee Meeting after OrdinaryMembers 114 116 the E.G.M. it was agreed that the Junior Members 1 1 subject should not be raised again Total 185 188 unless there was a real groundswell within the Club and it came from the C. D. Bush, President younger members.

'The YRC Bulletin 40 Summer 1996 Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Journals 5 1903 Morteratsch Contents Sattell (Conway). Two New Climbs All forty Club Journals,, 1899-1992 on Scafell (F. Botterill), A Night In a are listed below together with an Pothole - Lost John's ("Silent abbreviated summary ofcontents. Member"). Alum Pot (Lowe). Gaping Gill Hole (Cuttriss). Early 1 1899 -The Formation of Explorations in Ingleborough Cave (Green). Slanting Gully, Lliwedd (F. the Club (Bellhouse). The Northern Botterill), Savage Gully (F. Botterill), Playground of Europe (Sllngsby). Dent des Bouquetins by East Face 6 1904-5 Winter (Calvert). Mountaineering without Guides (Pilkington). A New Mountaineering in 1883 (Jackson). A Mountain Aneroid Barometer Fortnight in the Eastern Alps (Brigg). (Whymper). The West Wall of Deep The Kleine Zinne from Cortina Gill (Robinson). The Caves and (Calvert). The Horungtinder (Green). Potholes or Yorkshire (Cuttriss). Slogen (Raeburn). Jockey Hole and Gaping Gill Hole - Part 1 (Calvert). Rift Pot (Booth). Geological Features ofRift Pot (Broderick). 2 1900 - The Growth of 7 1906-7 Some Mountaineering (Walker). Keswick Brothers' Climb (Puttrell). Reminiscences of Skagastoldstind Mountaineering in Norway (Ulten). Further Explorations in (Sllngsby). Long Kin Hole West Gaping Gill Hole (Horn). Gaping Gill (Ellet). Hole (Plan). North West Climb, Pillar Gaping Gill Hole - Part 11 (Calvert). (Botterill). Limestone Caverns and Potholes and their Mode of Origin 3 1901 -Ancient Kingdom (Dwerryhouse), Scoska Cave, Littondale (with plan) (Hill). of Mourne (Moore). Swiss Holiday (Anderson). Walk in theTyrol 1907-8 -. Some Alpine (B11gg). Southern Greece (Barran), 8 Two Explorations in Ingleborough Variations (Wintlrrop Young). Cave (Green). Easter Holiday in the Speleology (Martel). Some Caves and Scottish Highlands (Slingsby). Potholes County Fermanagh Scrambling on Derbyshire Rocks (Broderick). Gaping Gill Again (Barton) (Cuttriss). Mere Gill Hole (Roberts).

4 1902 - A Run through 9 1909 - Alpine Flora the Dolomites (Coolidge). Camping (Farrar). S.E. Arete of the Nesthorn Out (Scriven). Personal (Lowe). In Northern Siberia Reminiscences of Great Climbs (Cuttriss). Log of the Bertol (Mathews). Solitary Camping on (Botterill). Caves In Yamaguchi Scafell (Lund). Record Fell Walk (Gauntlett). The Florence Court (Broadrick). Rowten Pot Caves, Co Fermanagh (with plan of (Swithinbank). An Expedition In the Marble Arch and District and Polla Range of the Grand Muveran Sumera) (Broderick). Gaping Gill in (Corbett). Flood (Rule).

The YRC Bulletin 41 Summer 1996 Burrow), Flora and Fauna (Lovett). 10 1910-In Praise of Good Cave Exploration. Things (Schuster). Gaping Gill (Farrer). Concerning Guide Books 15 1922 - Central Buttress, (Benson).: Easter in the Black Forest Scawfell (Frankland). Mountains and (Greenwood). Car Pot (Broderick). Sea IT (Botterill). Snow on the Fells Sunset Holefkoberts). Gaping Gill (Seaman). The Mountain Ramparts of Spout Tunnel and Rat Hole (Rule) Seas (Roberts). Swildon's Hole and Mendips (Bonner). The Leek Fell Potholes (with sketch map). Goyden 111911 Helm Wind Pot (with plan of Labyrinth). Cave (Benson). In Old Tracks (Brigg). Exploration. Climbing at 11k1ey (illustrated) (Greenwood). The Cave of the 16 1924 - A Brief Visit to Dragon, Majorca (with plan) (Hill). the Jotunheim (C. E. Burrow). A Sleets Gill and Dowka Bottom Cave Glimpse of the Dauphine (Plan of Sleets Gill) (Hastings). (Woodward) . Les Ecrins and the Swinsto Cave and some others Meije (Wright). Longkofe1 by the (Broderick), N.E. Ridge (Smythe). Mountains and Sea 11l(Botterill). Fox Holes, 12 1912 - On the Grigna Clapham - A Rock Shelter (with (Farrer). Aurora Borealis (Benson). plan)(Broderick). Diccan Pot, Selside Attempt on Kamet (AM. Slingsby). (Brown). Little Hull Pot, Penyghent Sinai: A Desert Ride (J. J. Brigg). (Roberts). Oxlow Cavern, Castleton The Siege of Mere Gill (with plan) (with plan) (Humphreys). Cave (Roberts). The Stream Bed of Fell Exploration. Beck above G.G. (plan showing Spout Tunnel and Rathole) 17 1927 Peaks & (Broderick). Porterage in the Pyrenees (G. R. Smith). Across to Andorra (Wright). 13 1913 - Clapham Cave Food & The Mountaineer (with plan) (Hill).The Cave of the (Crcighton). Conceming Wild Horses (Baker and Kentish). Classification (Benson). Some Noon's Hole (with plan) (Baker & Severes (Barker). Camp at Loch Wingfield). Siberia in Winter Curuisk (Barker). Esk Buttress, (Cuttriss). A Spofforth Pinnacle Scawfell Pike (Frankland). Juniper ("Columbus Junior"). Gaping Gill in Gulf (Griffiths). Gingling Pot 1913 (Rule). (Hilton). Clearing up in Gaping Gill (Anon). 14 1921 -A Shikar Trip in 1929 - A Raid on the Tehri (0. 1. Addyman). In the Tracks 18 or the Rubber Men (Frankland). High Atlas (Brown). West Buttress of Scawfell, Pisgah Buttress (W.Y.B.). Clogwyn du'r Arddu (Smythe). Notes Mountain and Sea (Botterill). of a campaign in the Alps 1927 Conceming AITan (Benson). Gaping (Smythe). Some Peaks by the Lake of Gill in 1920. Flood Entrance (D. Como (Wright). Gaping Gill, Whit & September ("Gantryman"). Gaping Gillin 1904 (M. Botterill).

The YRC Bulletin 42 Summer 1996 Pass (H. L. Stembridge). Snow Over 19 1930 - Corsica in May Pillar Fell (Reed) . Mountain and Sea (Roberts). The Outer Hebrides (M. IV (Botterill). Lochs Morar, Mourn Botterill). Some Notes on Sauerland and Nevis (Goggs). The Chislehurst (Ellis). Three Summers in the Club Cave Myth (Bonner). Three Easters (Whitaker). About Nothing in in Ireland (Bartlett). Ireland re-visited Particular (Benson). Lost John's Cave (Gowing). Dan-yr-ogof and the (Foley). Gavel Pot in 1885 Welsh Caves (Roberts). (Hastings). 24 1947 - Edouard Allied 20 1932 - In the Adamello Martel (Roberts). Some Mountains of and Brenta Groups (Sale). A Novice's Cape Province (Elliot). A Note on the Holiday at Saas Fee (Shaw). A Trek Theban Hills (Evans). Route Z Brig­ in Northern Rhodesia (Wo0 dman). Grindlewald (Evans). Omul - Getting June Days in Ross and Skye (Reed). Fit for War (Watts). A Happy New The Caimgorms (Riley). The Year. High Level Midwinter Eisreisenwelt (Puttrell). Cave Bivouacs (Nelstrop). The Enniskillen Exploration. Gondoliers (Roberts). Cave Exploration. 21 1934 - Forty Years On 1949 - Return to the (Lowe). A Glimpse of the 25 Drakensberg (G.S.Gowing). Mount Alps (Watts). First Visit to the Alps Ophir, Lahore (Lowe). Six Days in (Chadwick). Cyrene Underground Dauphine (OakesSmith). The (Stringer). Summer Camp in Lewis Roman Wall of Hadrian (Lowe). (Matheson). Almscliff Key to Climbs. Goyden Pot, Nidderdale(Yates). 5 plans and sketches(Stembridge). Rumbling Hole, Leck Fell Floreat Hibernia (Stembridge ). (Roberts). St. Michael's Potholes of the Ulster Border (6 Cave,Gibraltar(Brodrick). Caves in sections) (Holmes). Car Pot Dove & Manifold Valleys(Yates). Breakthrough (Brindle). Cave Exploration. 22 1936-A Fortnight In the 1952 Norwegian Lepontine Alps (Evans). Round 26 Sutherland (Roberts). Mountains of Holiday (Holmes). Late Summer in Yorkshire (Crawford). The Royal the Alps (Fox). A New Type of Club Grotto of Postumia (Puttrell). The Meet (Chadwick). Club Cottage Gingling Hole Accident (N.C.P.C.). (Burrow). Tales of Old Langdale The Underground Course of the (Griffin). Thadentsonyana Basutoland Monastir River (G.S. Gowing). (Jorgensen). Ulster the Seventh Time County Clare - A Brief Diary (Roberts). Mount Etna (Rusher). (Bartlett). Sam, the Ingleton Plumber Letter from Scotland (Reed). Cave (F. W. Stembridge). These Latter Exploration. Days (Washfold Cave, Mere Gill, Gaping Gill) (Roberts). 27 1954- Some Potholes in Leitrim, Eire (H. L. Stembridge). The 23 1938 The Giant 1911 Ascent of Gardyloo Gully (Davidson). Days Around the Susten (Roberts). Gaping Gill Explorations August 1951 - May 1952 (Parker).

The YRC Bulletin 43 Summer 1996 Loubens and the Deepest Pothole (Large). Reminiscences Part 1 1902 ­ (Roberts). Zennatt and Chamonix 1909 (Roberts), 1952 (Fox). Two Climbs on the Chamonix Aiguilles (Fox). The 31 1962 - Skiing in Norway Ascent of Mount Victoria (Kelsey). (Harris). Rosenlaui and so to Tatra The New Generation (Spenceley). A (Bell). La Haute Route 1960 (D. W. Northern Bogtrot (Griffin). Holes In Stembridge). Knoydart ll the Ground (IIPunch ). Climbs on Reconnaissance (Stirling). First Guisecliff (Scovell). Dr Johnson and Impressions of Newfoundland the Mountains (Brook). (Lockwood). A Traverse or the Lenzspitze (Wilkinson). Mountains, 28 1957 - South Georgia Beaches and Sunshine in Corsica (Spenceley). Fairy Hole Cave, (Tallon). The Cascade Mountains Weardale (Jones). Bird Watching in (G.A.Salmon). Reminiscences Part ll­ the Hills (Stonehouse). The Anglo-­ The YRC (Rob erts). French Expedition to Labouiche (Patchett). The Seven Peaks Walks 32 1964 - Mountains & (Large). We Can't All Be Explorers Indians in Peru (H. L. Stembridge). In but - (Lacy). Praraye (Watts). The the Footsteps of the Fianna Lakeland 3000's (Anderson). Mount (Crowther), Avalanche (Baume). A Arrowsmith Vancouver Island Shambles amongst the Alps (F. D. (Devenish). Brimham Rocks, an Smith, Allen, Vamey). Icefield Interim Guide (McKelvie). The Ranges of the St. Elias Mountains Brenva Route (Fox). Some Letters (T.H. Smith). Dolomite Introduction from the Past (Brook). (Henderson). Gullies (Woodward). A Day on the Matterhorn (R. Gowing). 29 1958 - YRC Himalayan Skye, the Ridge (Harben). Kilnsey Expedition - Introduction (H. L. Crag (Moorhouse). Stembridge) England to Katmandu (Tallon). Katmandu to Base Camp 33 1966 - Fuji-San (R. (Wilson). The Big White Peak Gowing). Knoydart (Swindells). The (Spenceley). After the Accident British Expedition to the (Anderson). A Bearer of ill Tidings Edelweisserhuttenschach (Judson, (Spenceley). Base Camp to Katmandu Middleton). The Northern Alps of (Tallon). A Doctor in the Himalayas Japan (R. Gowing). Climbs in the (Jones). The Injured from Base Camp Eastern Alps (Moorhouse). Land of to Katmandu (Jones). Equipment, the Magic Carpet (Watts). Pen y Medical and Food Rep orts. The Ghent Pot 1964 (T. W. Salmon). Summing Up (Spenceley). With a Scout Troop in the High AtlastMarr). Carlsbad Caves, New 30 1960 - Clapham Cave ­ Mexico (Reynolds). Reminiscences 1946/1959 (Patchett). Lonely in Part 111 (Roberts), Oxlow Caverns Lapland (Spenceley). 1957 Expd. to (Middleton). Monte Marguaries (Linford). Traverse ofthe Eiger and the Monch 34 1968 -Three-Quarters of (R. Gowing). Lost John's Cave 1959 a Century (The Presidents). Antro di (Stembridge). Enniskillen Whitsun Corchia, Apuan Alps (Arculus). 1959 (Hanis). A Pyrenean Journey Climbs in the Clapham Area

'The YRC Bulletin 44 Summer 1996 (Richards). A Fionn Loch Diary (Stirling). Some Climbs in Turkey 38 1979 - A Long River (Spenceley). The British Through a Lonely Land (Spenceley). Speleological Expedition in Turkey The Ogre (Rowlands). The Los Tayos 1966 (Middleton). Turkey Again Expedition (Whalley). Outdoors in 1967 (Middleton). First Descent of South Australia (Reynolds). Doing the Melon River Gorge (Middleton). the Donalds (Farrant). Radio Hadrian's Magic Stones (Patchett). Broadcasts by J. W. Puttrell Further Rambling in Japan (R (Harben). Trekking to Toubkal Gowing). Cave Exploration in South (M.Smith). Spitzbergen (D.Mackay). Wales (Judson). Arabian Clu,.ppings (Lovett).

35 1970 - The Watkins 39 1985 - Wasdale Diary Mountains Expedition (Spenceley). (Hoop er). A Tale of Two Chimneys Underground in the Lebanon 1968 & (Sale). Rambling Alone (Aldred). A 1969 (J. R Middleton). High Day In the Cascades (Farrant). The Adventure (T. Smith). Return to Munro Meet 1983 (Swindells). Corchia 1969 (Edwards). Fellsman Himalayan Trek (T. A. Kay). Cave 1969 (Hooper). Midnattssolens Land Diggers (Lomas). YRC Reflections (Humphreys). 1969 Speleological (G. S. Gowing). Two Continents by Expedition to Umbria (Judson). Canoe (Spenceley). An Ornithological Panorama (Papworth). Introduction 36 1973 - Iran: A Caving to the Alps (Goulden). Bolivian Adventure Extraordinary (J. R Reconnaissance (M. Smith) Middleton). Ghar Parau 1972 (Lomas). Land, Sea and Skye - The 40 1992 -Centenary Year. ­ Whit Meet 1972. The Reseau Felix The Y.R.C. 1892-1992 (Craven). Trombe (J. R Middleton). Damavand Cololo, an Ascent in the Apolobamba and Alan Kuh (Edwards). 1972 The (M. Smith). Karakoram Trek 1989 Year of the Push (J. R Middleton). (Kay). Farthest North & South Jiekkevarri '71 (Bugg). The Gouffie (Lacy). Norway 1991 (Armstrong). Berger (Edwards). The Golden Age Mount Albert Edward Diary (White). ofYorkshire Potholing (Swindells). '1 Know the Beggar" (Hooper). The Rediscovery of Cwm Dwr IT 37 1976 -The Hard Way to (Campion). Some Notes on the World Lalibella (Spenceley). A Journey Caving Scene 1992 (J.R.Middleton). through the Semyen (Medley). Lets Go Paragliding (Smythe). A Yorkshire Ramblings in California View from the Bridge (Farrant). (Goulden). Those Blue Remembered Extracts from Alpine Meets Hills (Farrant). Nova Scotia and the (F.D.Smith). Club Proceedings 1979­ Drakensberg (Smithson). Becking 1991. Pleasures (Clayton). Messrs. Dawson, Townend & Co. - Pioneer Potholers (Craven). The Greatest (H. L. Ray Harben Stembridge). First Alpine Route: Hon. Librarian Gran Paradiso (Lomas). Sulitjelma January 1996 1975 (Bugg).

The YRCBulletin 45 Summer 1996 It consists of a series of essays on various aspects ofLakeland. There are none about climbing as such but plenty about the countryside and about people. A gentle gossipy book this with no derring-do and no Craven Pothole Club Record unpleasantness, a senior citizens' book No. 40. October 1995 rather than a young tiger's. Here is a bumper (54 page) Mr. Mitchell's encyclopeadic issue. Lively accounts of caving knowledge certainly filled in some adventure in the UK and abroad gaps 'in mine, in particular the predominate but there is a timely and confusion I was in over two names, thoughtful article about conservation Heaton Cooper and Collingwood. and, as usual, an account of a AHeaton Cooper was the artist father mountaineering meet. Abroad ofthe better known W.Heaton Cooper includes Sarawak and Transylvania and W.G.Collingwood, secretary to and the climbing meet took place in John ("greasy pole") Ruskin, was Skye. I was delighted to learn that father of R.G. Collingwood, Oxford there is an easy (relatively) way to historian and joint author of "Roman Sgurr Alastair from Sgumain. Britain and the English Settlements" in The biggest news on the UK the Oxford History ofEngland. W.G. potholing side is the discovery of a also wrote one of the best historical new extension in Gaping Gill. The novels about Lakeland, "Thorstein of exact location is not given but the the Mere". account coveys all the thrills of We learn something about expIoration. Mrs. Heelis (Beatrix Potter) and Harriet Martineau. In the chapter on photographers as well as the great Letters From the Lakes Abraham brothers we hear about W.R. MitchelI Joseph Hardman of Kendal who used Castleberg, 1995, pp. 172 £5.99 to photograph the glamorous nurses & of Westmorland County Hospital in a I'll Walk Where I Will. mountain setting. Funny enough after An Anthology for Ramblers, three weeks being looked after by compiled by Roy AlIen. them in 1953 I developed a desire to The Rambler's Association, 1995, do something similar but didn't get pp. 58. Available from: 18 Furness anywhere. Avenue, Sheffield, S17 3QL. I am sorry that Mr. Mitchell Yorkshiremen will be familiar has conformed to the current fashion with Bill Mitchell's name as long time ofcalling Mill Gill "Stickle Gill". I see editor of the ''Dalesman''. Since his no reason for altering a name which place there was taken by David Joy he has served for centuries and I resent has not been idle. In the forward by the arrogance which assumes the light Hunter Davies we learn that this book to do so. Another small carp is the was written after a serious operation reference to ''Matthew Arnold, from which Mr. Mitchell has happily Headmaster of Rugby". Surely completely recovered. He has been Doctor Arnold ofRugby was father to kind enough to present a copy to the Matthew Arnold, Poet, and Club. incidentally grandfather to Malcolm

'Ibe YRC Bulletin 46 Summer 1996 Amold, composer. A talented family, But persevere with the book why weren't they members? even ifyou are not a football fan. In This is a good book to have on fact don't start it if you want to be your shelf and take down when you your own man for the next five or six have halfan hour to spare. It is full of hours because I found it very difficult interest and the black and white to put down. My own view of illustrations are surprisingly effective. Wainwright before reading this was of "I'll Walk Where I Will" has a man who let his love for the only an indirect connection with Lakeland Fells consume all his spare Benny Rothman of mass trespass time either walking them or writing fame. The title is a quote from a verse about them. This naturally caused his by Ewen McColl which is printed in wife to feel like nothing but a full on the title page. The book is neglected skivvy and cost him his divided into sections for particular marriage, Most of us have seen this districts and aspects ofwalking. The happen. quotes are from a variety of authors But the truth seems so strange from Shakespeare through Emily as to be bizarre. This was no white Bronte to Mike Harding, Most of hot young love getting married them are to the point and the question without further thought. It seems that of access is by no means overlooked. he married because she was the only There is a copy in the YRC library and girl who accepted his embraces. And its well worth a look. I can appreciate that because I still remember the time when NO girl accepted mine. Another reason Wainwright. The Biography. driving AW. into early marriage was a Hunter Davies, drunken father at home. Plainly they Michael .Ioseph, London, pp.355, could not afford to get married £16.99 because their honeymoon was two I have long been fiercely shilling seats at the local cinema after resentful of the assumption that every which they moved into the house red blooded English-man knows about previously shared by Ruth and her football. We get no further than page sister. six of this book before the author is Ruth's motivation was perhaps expecting his readers to know what more straightforward, Alf had a the 2-3-5 system is and how it differs secure white-collar job in the Town from the 2-2-6 system. For heavens Hall and was a "good catch" but when sake if you pick up a book about it transpires years later that "she Wainwright you may expect a would never have married him if she knowledge ofLakeland to be required had known he had red hair" one not football. wonders what sort of courtship they The information that had. It seems that all their courting Wainwright 'followed' Blackburn went on either in the dark or with Rovers all his life did not enhance my AW. wearing his cap, or both. opinion ofthe man. I suppose people So instead of a man getting who know about football appreciate obsessed with the Fells and ruining his skill and dexterity displayed on the marriage we have a man climbing the field but when good performance is Fells to get out of the house. No only applauded from 'our' team I part wonder he never got a car; he was company.

The YRC Bulletin 47 Summer 1996 happier trundling home on a slow bus companions and he had to be than getting home in good time. physically restrained fi..om going back Having claimed that his with the rescue team. famous guide books (thank goodness I You might think he was a bit was finding my own way round ofa hero, you might also wonder how Lakeland before they came out) arose all three climbers managed to fall off purely out ofhis love for the Fells and Did none of them have an adequate that he desired no personal gain or anchor? Fair dos, Tilman wasn't publicity we arrive at the 1980's when leading, but a mountaineer of his for a period you could not turn on the experience ought to have been tied on. TV or open a colour supplement This seems to have been the without seeing Wainwright. But all the pattern of a lot of Bill Tilman's life. money went to animal charities so I Tough, careless of danger, and suppose that made it all right. I saw sometimes careless in his approach to one of these programmes myself; hazardous enterprises, for example "Animals cannot speak up for getting 'Mischief out of Las Palmas themselves" said Wainwright, harbour (p.212). Certainly they cannot speak but the Mr. Madge tells a good story other side of the coin is that they do about this man who was born in 1898 not have consciences and need not and left school to join up for the worry about over population, the third Kaiser's war. After the war, having world or the next ice age. No, I been wounded and decorated, he went cannot agree with a man who puts the to East Africa to grow coffee. It was animal kingdom, in his will, before his here that the successful partnership own son. with Eric Shipton was started. They But read the book. I think it climbed Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya gives a fair assessment of a man who and the Mountains of the Moon. used his considerable talents to make When Shipton decided that the 1933 his mark and did his best to play fair Everest expedition had been too according to his lights. Largely cumbersome he and Tilman set up a because he realised how lucky he had series of lightweight trips which been I cannot dislike him. I used to be achieved among other things the first envious of the considerable time he penetration of the Nanda Devi must have spent on the hills but he Sanctuary. Tilman took part in the missed out on a lot of the other good first ascent of the mountain a year things oflife. later. World War II found Tilman in khaki again. After active service in The Last Hero. Bill Tilman. Iraq and Africa he found his metier A Biography of the Explorer. leading guenilla operations behind Tim Madge enemy lines in Albania and Italy. Hodder & Stoughton, 1995, Mr. Tilman senior's death pp. 288, £18.99 before the war had left Bill with a What do you think of a man private income so he was able to who, after falling off Dow Crag, resume his mountain explorations finding himselfthe ouly member ofthe without the worry ofhaving to earn a party able to move, crawls down to living. His books must have helped of Coniston to get help? His action course, I think "Two Mountains and a saved the life of one of his two River" describing his 1947 adventures

'l1lC YRC Bulletin 48 Summer 1996 is one ofhis best. Even the preface is Another sign of those times is a little gem. that people didn't use first names In his mid fifties Bill found he outside family. It is sometimes could no longer perform at high remarked on that the two boon altitudes so he took up sailing. He companions Shipton and Tilman bought an old Bristol pilot cutter, addressed each other as just that. The christened her 'Mischief, and story goes that when Shipton asked embarked on a twenty year career of Tilman to call him 'Eric' Tilman's sailing round such places as reply was 'It's such a sillyname'. Greenland, Spitzbergen and the I don't buy this. Firstly Antarctic. As he got well into his because Bill was too much of a seventies he experienced increasing gentleman to poke fun at a mend's difficulty handling his crews. name and secondly because I am By this time there was more convinced that to Bill the use of first than one generation gap between this names belonged to the nursery, 'Play first war veteran and the SOli of nicely with Eric, Billy'. I suggest that footloose young men who would be at what Bill meant to convey, whatever liberty to take six months off to go he said was 'It's such a silly childish sailing. The footloose young men of habit'. the seventies were not inclined to kow But read this book. It will tell tow to this silly old buffer who kept you a lot about the man that is worth making a mess of things and thought knowing. High jinks in Africa, he was doing them a big favour. groping for bullets on the tent floor to In fact, of course, they were shoot a buffalo at dead of night. By doing him a favour because the boats the time they found them the buffalo he used needed a crew offour or five. had gone. One wonders why he didn't get a Thoughts on the war, Bill went good one man craft and do a Chay and fought, of course, but he had this Blyth. to say about some of those who Mr. Madge writes well and has stayed behind, 'I dislike those people had a lot of help from Bill's niece, who go to the country (to escape the Pam Davis. He has done a good job bombing) and stay there; it will not do in putting all the information together the monied people any good after the though I found his layout by activity war.' He knew what he was on about rather than chronology a bit confusing. there, Clement Attlee and Co. saw to I get the impression, that. nevertheless, of a certain lack of Every reviewer must find a 'empathy?' between biographer and hole to pick, even a minor one. An subject. Mr. Madge is at pains to author with Mr. Madge's impressive point out that Bill's 'sense of list of qualifications, yachtmaster, deference' to members of the Royal pilot, climber etc., ought to know that Family for instance was not 'odd'. Stornoway is not in the Shetlands. It Tim, everybody except the bolshies was on Lewis in the outer Hebrides had it in the 30s and 40s too. It is still last time I was there. there now in a perverted way On a more important issue I do otherwise the antics of some of its not agree that HW.T. was the last younger members wouldn't sell so hero'. He did well in two wars; so did many papers. millions of others. He climbed and explored; so would have hundreds of

The YRC Bulletin 49 Summer 1996 others if they hadn't had to earn a Lakeland Rocky Rambles. living. In fact when Bill was starting Geology beneath your feet. his sailing working class mountaineers Bryan Lyan, such as Don Whillans were taking up Sigma Leisure, pp. 282, £9.95. mountain exploration where Bill had Until I got this book I thought left off I knew something about geology. It is No, Bill Tilman would never truly said, however, that humility is have described himself as any kind of the beginning of wisdom and after hero. Ifyou don't believe this read his doing the first one of the 'rocky own books as well as this one. rambles', Haystacks, with the book in hand I am certainly humble. Juliet and I chose a clear March day to do the The Scottish Mountaineering Club walk which goes through Warnscale Journal 1995. Bottom taking in the waterfalls of Volume XXXV, No. 186. Warnscale Beck to Dubs Quarry. There is something for Here we lunched and completed the everybody in the 225 pages of the walk by Little Round How, Blackbeck S.M.C. Journal. We have reports of Tarn and Haystacks, to Scarth Gap. accidents, new routes, club activities The book takes twenty-two pages and of course orbituaries. On the including drawings to describe the lighter side there is a new Sherlock walk and the things you can see and is HoImes adventure (how many of you a mine of information. We had it knew that Norman Collie was cushy, we didn't have to worry about Sherlock HoImes' cousin?), and a the botany (Mr. Lynas is not narrow funny about the Mad Monk of minded) because it was winter. Dundonnell. The Letterewe Accord is Nevertheless by the time we got to reported fully and might yet show the Little Round Row with clag coming in way forward in reconciling the the the West in the middle of a winter interests of various land users. afternoon we felt it best to close the The ten colour photographs book and finish the walk. We will are all first class and represent certainly have to go again to see the mountaineering all over the world. things we missed. This is the first S.M.C. Journal There are ten rambles I have studied in detail and I am described including Coniston Fells, impressed by the way clubs and Langdale Pikes, Helvellyn and mountaineering have been organised Blencathra. Appendices include a in Scotland. We all know the S.M.C. glossary and a timescale. I wish I had was founded just before the Y.R. C., had this book :fifty years ago and I will but the Junior Mountaineering Club of certainly not go back to Lakeland Scotland was formed in 1925 without it. The style is racy and specifically to accept and train amusing, it is a good armchair read as novices, and retains a sort of filial well. relationship with S.M.C., in that its If you are the least bit activities are reported in this journal, interested in how the hills we love now in the Club Library for your were formed get this book it is well enjoyment. wOlth the modest price of £9.95. A special issue of the 'The Bulletin' of the South African Spelaeological Association, number 34, 1994, pp136 is to be placed at Lowstern. The issue is given over to a comprehensive study ofthe Management Problems at Cango Caves

'!11e YRC Bulletin 50 Summer 1996 The Relationship between Edmund Bogg, The Leeds Savage Club and the YRC S.A. Craven

The late Edmund Bogg was a popular and prolific writer a century ago. With his artist and other friends he tramped all over the northern Pennines gathering material for his well-illustrated books. His first book, "A Thousand Miles in Wharfedale" was published in hardback by subscription in 1892. Subsequent books were financed by advertisements. As the years passed, his standards fell. By the 1920s he had re-worked much In those halcyon days before television of his material, and re-published using and radio people had to entertain poorer quality paper and paperback themselves. The Leeds Savage Club, binding. No doubt these later, cheaper, modelled on the earlier club ofthe same editions brought the countryside to a name in London, enabled the members less affluent and increasingly mobile to do just that. Inter alia they working class population. accompanied Bogg on his lengthy tours of the countryside, and several This paper records and comments on contributed drawings and photographs Bogg's connection with the Yorkshire to illustrate his books. Ramblers' Club. It is not intended to be a critical appreciation ofBogg's literary Bogg has the dubious distinction of talent. Suffice it to say that he was a being involved in the first cave accident romantic writer. His contemporary in the Yorkshire Dales. On 12 topographer and local historian, Harry September 1891 he organised a concert Speight, is considered to be a more for about forty friends in Dow Cave reliable authority. near Kettlewell. Owen Bowen and Albert Haselgrave left the main party Bogg supplemented his literary with only one candle between them. earnings by running a wholesale and When the light failed, Haselgrave fell retail business supplying artists' about 5 m. into the stream, injuring his materials at 3 Woodhouse Lane and face. This story appeared in the local Guildford Street, Leeds. By the 1920s newspaper-', and was repeated by Bogg he had moved to 3 Wade Street, Leeds. at least four times". A somewhat less For many years he rented the Manor sensational account was written by an House at Castley which he used as a eye-witness 76 years later-'. holiday homel. This early incident may have caused Bogg gathered around him at his Bogg to reconsider his attitude to caves Castley home and on his field trips a which, unlike the works of Harry group of artists, journalists, writers, Speight, rarely feature in his books. musicians and craftsmen from which he Four of his collaborators, George T. formed the Leeds Savage Club2. Lowe, Percy Robinson, Fred Leach and

The YRC Bulletin 51 Summer 1996 Frank Dean, subsequently joined the Bogg's biggest book was his 2000 YRC which had been founded in 1892. Miles in the Border Country, Lakeland It is not clear whether Lewis Moore andRibblesdale. This tome went out of (elected 1892) joined the YRC before print in less than a year (1898: 1200 or after his association with Bogg. copies), and was immediately re­ There is no record of Bogg's financial published in two parts - A Thousand arrangements with the YRC members. Miles ... in the Border Country and A Owen Bowen received £2 per week Thousand Miles ... Lakeland and plus expenses for his artistic workv, so Ribblesdale. The identical pagination it is not unreasonable to assume that indicates that re-publication was the YRC members were also intended at the typesetting stage. remunerated. George Lowe contributed a chapter about the Northern Cheviots In his first book, A Thousand Miles in (illustrated by Fred Leach)15, while Wharfedale, Bogg dismissed Stump Lowe and Lewis Moore wrote about Cross Caves in five lines7. the Roman Wall16 and Climbs in Nevertheless, George Lowe obliged Lakeland (also illustrated by Fred with ten lines in the appendix to that Leach before he joined the YRC)17. book8. Twelve years and a thousand . miles later Stump Cross had been Messrs. Lowe and Moore were not the dismissed in one line"! only YRC members who were involved with Bogg's publishing efforts. Percy The timing of George Lowe's first Robinson supplied many illustrations contribution is significant. He visited for Richmondshire-s, Two Thousand Stump Cross Caves during an Easter Miles in Wharfedale19, Edenvale to the before October 1892 i.e. well before Plains of York20, The Border the YRC was formally constituted on 6 Country-), Lakeland and October 1892. At that inaugural Ribblesdale--, A Thousand Miles in meeting Lowe was elected President. Wharfedale-i, Higher Wharfeland-", Lowe, writing under the banner of the Lower Wharfedalel>, The Old 26,Wensleydale YRC, contributed a chapter on Upper Kingdom ofElmet and Nidderdale to Bogg's undated Edenvale the Lower Vale of Yore-], and to the Plains of York10. lnter alia he Picturesque Fell Land28, Robinson took the readers to Tom Taylor's Cave, was a late arrival at the YRC from the Eglin's Hole, Goyden Pot and Bogg fraternity, being elected in 1906. Manchester Hole. For many years this This search ofthe Bogg books revealed was the best available description ofthe that Frank Dean (elected 1892, Nidderdale caves. Of the paperbacks, resigned 189529) was another major Lowe is acknowledged for his illustrator. assistance with Wensleydale and the Lower Vale of Yore, but there is no The relationship between the members indication of the full extent of his ofthe YRC and Edmund Bogg was to contribution11. He also provided seven a certain extent symbiotic. Although the illustrations for Bogg's The Old YRC was founded in 1892, it did not Kingdom of Elmet12, two for Lower publish its Journal until 1899. In retum for the contributions to his books, Wharfedale13, and five for Higher Bogg provided a medium for the Wharfelandrs,

l1lC YRC Bulletin 52 Summer 1996 publication of some early meet of York" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). * Noted in 1. reportsl ! and cave explorations, be YRC. (1922) 2,. (15),69. they original or repeat. Thus in Bogg's 11 Bogg E. (n.d. pre-1899) "Wensleydale and the books can be found accounts of early Lower Vale of the Yore, from Ousebum to Lunds Fell" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). * Noted in J. YRC. YRC meets at Dow Cave-", Gaping (1899) 1. (1), 90. Gill and Rowten Pot (illustrated by 12 Bogg E. (1904) "The Old Kingdom of Elmet" pp. 15, 17, 19,46,74,164 & 222 (York: JOM Samuel Cuttrissj-J, and Hell Hole32 . Sampson).* Noted in J. YRC. (1903H. (5), 95. As soon as the YRC Journal 13 Bogg E. (1904) "Lower Wharfeland: The Old commenced publication, the members' City of York and the Ainsty" pp. 135 & 162 (York: contributions to Bogg's books declined. John Sampson). 14 Bogg E. (1904) "Higher Wharfeland: The Dale Despite this unofficial association of ofRomance" pp. 10,36,179,204 & 218. Bogg with the YRC, only four of his 15 L(owe) G.T. (1898) "The Northern Cheviots books were mentioned in the YRC from Berwick to Otterbum" pp. 153 - 166 in Bogg. E. "Two Thousand Miles ofWandering in the Journal, and none was reviewed. Border Country, Lakeland and Ribblesdale" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg)* Noted in 1. YRC. (1922) 2,. (15), Acknowledgement 69 reprinted (1898) pp. 153 - 166 in Bogg E. (1898) "A Thousand Miles ofWandering in the I am grateful to Don MelIor of Farnhill Border Country" (Newcastle: Mawson, Swan & who drew my attention to Edmund Morgan). Bogg's association with the Leeds 16 (Moore 1. & ? Lowe G.T.) (1898) "Roman Savage Club. The Club is mentioned in Wall" pp. 36 - 41 ifl Bogg E. (1898) "Two Bogg's books. Thousand Miles of Wandering in the Border Country, Lakeland and Ribblesdale" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg) reprinted (1898) pp. 36 - 41 in Bogg E. (1898) "A Thousand Miles ofWandering 1 Kerton F. (1946) "Edmund Bogg by His along the Roman Wall, the Old Border Region, Daughter" The Yorkshire Dalesman S, (4), 77-79. Lakeland, and Ribblesdale" (Leeds: Edmund 2 Leeds Savage Club archives (Leeds Reference Bogg). Library). 17 L(owe) G.T. (1896) "Climbs in Lakeland" pp. 3 Anon. (1891) Craven Herald and Wensleydale 161 - 169 in Bogg E. (1898) "Two Thousand Miles Standard No. 883 for 18 September. o~Wanderingin the Border Country, Lakeland and 4 Bogg E. (1892) "A Thousand Miles in Ribblesdale" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg) reprinted Wharfedale" pp. 242 - 243 (London: Simpkin, (1896) pp. 161 - 169 in Bogg E. (1898) "A Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co.). Thousand Miles of Wandering along the Roman Bogg E. (1904) "Two Thousand Miles in Wall, the Old Border Region, Lakeland, and Wharfedale" p. 608 - 610 (London: John Heywood). Ribblesdale" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). Bogg E. (1904) "Higher Wharfeland - The Dale 18 Bogg E. (1908) "Richmondshire" pp. 13, 19, ofRomance" pp. 322 - 323 (Leeds: James Miles). 23,282,290,488,552, 566, 568 & 590 (Leeds: Bogg E. (1904) "Picturesque Fell Land" p. 66 James Miles). (Manchester: John Heywood). 19 Bogg E. (1904) "Two Thousand Miles in 5 Bowen O. (1967) "Owen Bowen: The Artist as Wharfedale" pp. 94,96,109,154,182,192,241, a Young Man" Dalesman 29. 467. 248,267,368,369,390,404,424,556,615&627 6 Bowen O. (1967) "Owen Bowen: The Artist as (London: Jolm Heywood). a Young Man" Dalesman 29.465. 20 Bogg E. "From Edenvale to the Plains ofYork" 7 Bogg E. (1892) "A Thousand Miles in (Leeds: Edmund Bogg) pp. 6, 31, 34, 36, 37, 38, Wharfedale" p. 173 (London: Simpkin, Marshall 49,56,66,68,69,74,85,96,101,113,117,140, Hamilton, Kent & Co.). ' 142,165,253,261,262,273,289,301,320,323, 8 L(owe) G.T. (1892) "AnArtist's Rambles in 325, 333 & 334 (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). Upper Wharfedale" pp. 262 - 268 in Bogg E. "A 21 Bogg. E. (1898) "Two Thousand Miles of Thousand Miles in Wharfedale" (London: Simpkin, Wandering in the Border Country, Lakeland and Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co.) reprinted (n.d.) Ribblesdale" pp. 5, 18,23,34,36,62,67,71,232, ~p..(39 - 40) in Bogg E. & Daykin w.H. (n.d.) 250 & 253 (Leeds: Edmund Bogg) reprinted: Nidderdale and the Vale of the Nidd from Nun (1898) "A Thousand Miles ofWandering in the Monkton to Great Whemside" (Leeds: E. Bogg). Border Country" pp. 5, 18,23,34,36,62,67,71, 9 Bogg E. (1904) "Two Thousand Miles in 232, 250 & 253 (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). Wharfedale" pp. 489 & 493 (London: John 22 Bogg E. (1898) "Two Thousand Miles of Heywood). Wandering in the Border Country, Lakeland and 10 Lowe G.T. (n.d.; post-1892 & pre-1898) "A Ribblesdale" pp. 9,26,40,46,47,53 & 90 (Leeds: Rambler's Reminiscences of Upper Nidderdale" pp. Edmund Bogg) reprinted (1898) "A Thousand 185 - 191 in Bogg E. "From Edenvale to the Plains

The YRC Bulletin 53 Summer 1996 Edmund Bogg) reprinted (1898) "A Thousand The result is this, still incomplete, list. Miles of Wandering along the Roman Wall, the Old Border Region, Lakeland, and Ribblesdale" pp. 1. George T Lowe,1892-1942, a founder 9,26,40,46,47, 53 & 90 (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). member. 23 Bogg E. (1892) "A Thousand Miles in Wharfedale" pp. 49, 63, 82, 101, 103, 106, 119, 2. J A Moxon 123, 135,212,248 & 255 (London: Simpkin, 3. Lewis Moore, a great member 1892-1933 Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co.). 4. WaIter Yale 24 Bogg E. (1904) "Higher Wharfeland" pp. 82, 83, 104, 118, 138,270,329 & 341 (Leeds: J. 5. Joseph Towers, 1892-1893 Miles). 6. Charles W Harding 25 Bogg E. (1904) "Lower Wharfeland: The Old 7. William Carter, not a member. City ofYork and the Ainsty" pp. 82, 117,222,224, 237,282,310,320,369,370 & 395 (York: John 8. W. Scuriato, nota member. Sampson). 9. ER Cross 26 Bogg E. (1904) "The Old Kingdom ofEhnet" IO.Antiquary pp. 8,31,32,49,60,70,83,95,122 & 174 (York: John Sampson). I 1.Jester 27 Bogg E. (n.d. pre-1899) "Wensleydale and the 12.R C Oldham Lower Vale ofthe Yore, from Ousebum to Lunds 13.Percy Robinson, 1906-1948, 'inventor' Fell" pp. 8, 13,39,36, 61, 68, 74, 91, 99, 112, 113 ofcommunal catering in the Club. & 123 (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). 28 Bogg E. (1904) "Picturesque Fell Land" p. 2 14.F.M.Cunan(s) , not a member. Though (Manchester: John Heywood). there was a S.W.Cuttriss in 1894, 29 Hooper J. (1995) The Yorkshire Rambler (4), 15.Frank Dean 56. 16.WilliamH Lamb,there was a Percy H. 30 Bogg E. (1904) "Higher Wharfeland" p. 321 Lamb in 1894. (Leeds: J. Miles). 31 Moore L. (1898) "High Ribblesdale" pp. 231 ­ 17.Frank Atthaise/ss, not a member. 243 in Bogg E. (1898) "Two Thousand Miles of 18.George I Barley, not a member. Wandering in the Border Country, Lakeland and 19.F. Miles Waite suggests F.D.S Ribblesdale" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg) reprinted (1898) pp. 231- 243 in Bogg E. (1898) "A 20.Emest Forbes Thousand Miles ofWandering along the Roman 21.R? Smith, there was a Ralph Smith 1892­ Wall, the Old Border Region, Lakeland, and 1904 Ribblesdale" (Leeds: Edmund Bogg). 22.George Barber 32 Bogg E. (1904) "Two Thousand Miles in Wharfedale" pp. 492 - 493 (London: John 23.Mark Senior Heywood). 24.Edmund Bogg 25.Still unknown 26.W. Edwin Tindale 27.Charles W Wilkinson 28.Joseph? Sheard 29.A1exander Cambell, 1903-48 also pianist at the 1903 Annual Dinner. 30.J Fred Symonds? 31.William Jones, not a member.

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TIle YRC Bulletin 54 Summer 1996 mDi~ualii6S

Geoffrey Booth Bates Alton Hartley Member 1972 - 1996 Geoffrey, who has died ages 93, was born into a West Riding family We must sadly record engaged in quality worsted yam the death on 16th spinning at East Ardsley. He was March of Alton educated at Mill Hill school and Hartley, aged 84. eventually joined the family business. With his retirement in Partly as a result of his travels to sight, Alton came late to the Scandinavia on business he mill Yorkshire Ramblers yet with his quiet became proficient in eight languages. self-effacing manner he quickly He was interested in the countryside established a permanent place in the and its pursuits and when he joined the affections of those many who were Club in 1960 he was able to share his lucky enough to know him. His life­ interests with men of similar outlook time love of the hills found its and sympathies. Geoffrey was a good expression not in hard routes or shot and a keen fly fisherman. He was gruelling Munro bagging but in a an extremely good goer on the hill and deep, almost spiritual awareness of all seemingly indestructible in any kind of that could be seen, felt and sensed. weather. Intimately acquainted with Some will remember an especially North West Scotland as a result of vivid meet report but it was in his many family visits and Whit meets he poetry and articles, which were had climbed all the mountains and hills published from time to time, that he of any note in Coigach, Assynt­ grasped and recorded the real Coigach and North West Sutherland significance ofhis experiences. and fished innumerable hill lochs and He preached in Methodist Chapels in lochans. He also knew the Yorkshire the thirties and served in the Royal Dales and North West Yorkshire in Corps of Signals during the last war, some detail and had made use of the surviving the notorious Burma Dales Rail service for many linear Campaign from start to finish. After walks in those areas. the war he worked, until retirement, in After leaving the millin the early 60's the Public Health Service. Geoffrey had more time for his In 1988 he suffered a stroke which left interests and was very active in him with impaired speech and mobility keeping his land in good order in the but he continued to show a keen Lake District and the Goole area interest in all YRC activities, and where he planted many trees. He was contributed handsomely to valuable a JP in the Dewsbury area and a fixtures and fittings at Lowstem. member of the Bradford Straddlebugs and the Bumsall Angling Club. It is typical of this gentle and kindest of men that he should leave his body Geoffrey, a most kind, very private for research with no formal memorial man; a delightful companion on a hill services to mark his passing. His wife, and a staunch friend, was devoted to Kitty, who nursed him so diligently his family. He married Mary Holroyd, throughout eight difficult years is who predeceased him. They had three naturally honouring all his wishes. daughters. S.M. A. C. B.

The YRC Bulletin 55 Summer 1996 Dear Editor, May I crave the hospitality of your columns to comment on John Barton's letter. There used to be a 'Yorkshire Cfunbers Mountaineering Club'. llkley Some of its members are now in the October 1995 YRC, others joined YMC when it changed its title from 'Junior Dear Editor, Mountaineering Club of Yorkshire'. I have read, with great interest, So why not call ourselves 'The the article 'Gaping Gill and the Yorkshire Ramblers Mountaineering Mysterious Miss Booth June 1906' Club"? We would still be the ''Yorkshire Ramblers" but whenever I knew Miss Mary Booth quite the club's name had to be written or well. Her father, Harry Blamires cited at length our mountaineering Booth, was a Bradford Wool aspect would be quite clearly Merchant who came from Ryhill, conveyed. I feel for our cavers but to south-east ofWakefield and called his include caving or pot-holing in our house in Ben Rhydding 'Ryhill'. name would in my submission make it too unwieldy. After all Craven Mary Booth, whilst somewhat Pothole Club mountaineers and eccentric, travelled the world and her Gritstone Club does, or did, explore house, which I visited, was stacked caves and you don't find many with papers, books and mementoes of potholes in gritstone. her travels including Cambodia. She Of course, it might upset the was about my age and could not YMC if we adopted my suggestion possibly have made a descent of and here I had better come clean and Gaping Gill in 1906, more than two admit that what I would really like to years before I was bom! see, and not just because it would save me a subscription, is a merger. This I am sure, therefore, that she would solve our name problem and can be eliminated from the enquiry. mightily alleviate our demographic problem at a stroke. Unfortunately I Who was Mrs Boyes? can see two massive objections. First, it would be difficult to persuade the With kind regards, YMC to take on a club with so few assets. Second, it would mean Sincerely bringing women into the new merged club, though it doesn't seem to have done the Alpine Club any harm. On the subject of ladies, I understand that the voting at the Special meeting was 60-40 against their admission. Would it not be equitable therefore to have 40% ofthe Amold N. Patchett meets open? Yours sincerely, () I J f\ rnfJ. Bill Todd. I~ t.P V ~

111C YRC Bulletin 56 Summer 1996 Irish Potholing Meet, Whitsuntide 1949

TIlls photograph was taken by John 9 Goodwin Barton at Florence Court near 10 Sam Bryant the lony driver Enniskillen shortly before everyone 11 I.E. Cullingworth departed on the last day. 12 H Annstrong John identifies the following: 1 C.E. Burrow the then President Missing from the picture are thought to 2 P.W. Burton be W. Booth and HG. Watts. 3 Tyas Craven Pothole Club For the story of the meet see Ulster: 4 I.T.H Godley The Seventh Time by E.E. Roberts in 5 C. Chubb the 1952 Joumal, Vo1.VII, N° 26. The 6 Mr Barbour ofFlorence COUlt account of tills busy meet refers to the 7 Stanley Marsden experimental use of 100ft (30m) 8 E.E. Roberts nylon ropes.

'lbc YRCBulletin 57 Summer 1996 ~~~ huts as measured by bed nights. A plea from todays group of Club cavers who are exploring new areas 1000 underground, Jed Campion and 800 Graham Salmon. They require scaffolding, clips, swivels, right-angles 600 and the like. Any lengths, any condition, any quantity. They will collect it. All you have to do is contact them. Also, for the purpose of pulling small I loads, not seeming people, they are '91 '91 '93 194 195 offering to help you out by taking old __----n=:><:><::s--~ ropes off your hands and putting them The Guiness Book of Records has to good use. Any old ropes will do contacted Will Lacy for details of his hawswer-laid or kemmantle. trips to the poles, the North when aged -~~ 82 and the South at 84. As the oldest Arnold Patchett was at the centenary person to achieve this his feat will be celebrations at Gaping Gill. He recorded in the next edition. attended, dressed as a gamekeeper, as a ~~ guest of Dr John Farrer and was Maurice Wilson has presented to the filmed by Sid Perou. Later he made a Library his copy of "The Complete three week trip along the full length of Mountaineer" by George D. Abraham, Chile and to Easter Island. Inside the front cover of the book is a ~~~ letter from George Abraham to Members are undoubtedly aware ofthe Maurice dated 31st August 1954 hazards of mountaineering. What, making arrangements for a visit to see though, of the dangers inherent in not him which was one of many that going climbing in the great mountain Maurice made. Also inside the front ranges but staying at home instead. cover is a very interesting note stating Rory Newman, while on the Club that "This is to certify that this copy of expedition in Nepal, had his car "The Complete Mountaineer" was mangled into a twisted heap ofmetal by previously in the library of the late an out-of-control lorry. The lorry, Frank S. Smythe." signed THOMAS J carrying twenty tonnes of plate glass, GASTON. reached the bottom of Blue Bank, Maurice has also given to the Club a Staithes, turned on its side, and further letter from George Abraham careered into a car park. Thankfully dated 26.10.55 and this will go into no-one was injured. Stick to the archives. The letter was written when mountains: it's safer. George was in his 90s and mentions the ~~ extremely bad weather conditions in the Repotted at the 1995 AGM from the alps particularly after he had left BMC by our representative, Bill Todd, Zennatt in July. were the restoration of Rylstone Cross c'fzr>1..M '~H~0..f/-? and news that the traditional parking ~....t);. ./ ( ) -, '-J('A- LU,,-~("-""\ spot for the Ben, by the Golf Club, is This letter will join the others from not longer available. famous mountaineers now lodged with Our Huts Secretary, David the West Yorkshire Archive Services in Martindale, presented to the meeting Leeds, reports Ray Barben. figures for the last five year's use ofour

nlC YRC Bulletin 58 Summer 1996 YRC 'Alpine' meet from Fuente De, at the end of the Liebana valley. However, long queues Picos de Europa were sometimes experienced for the descent to the valley at the end of the July - August 1995 day. Compiled by John Devenport Potes was a bustling, attractive old town, with plenty of character and The venue characters. The Monday moming The meet was based about 2km from market was well worth a visit, where Potes, about 80 miles from Santander the usual range of market fare could on the east side of the Picos de be purchased, plus pigs, sheep, Europa. The Picos are perhaps the chickens and a wide range of other finest and most compact set ofridges, livestock. Shops and supermarkets pinnacles and gorges of hard provided a very cheap source of carboniferous limestone in Westem provisions and local produce. The Europe and form the highest part of local specialities included cider, a wide the Cantabrian mountain range in range ofcheeses and chorizo sausage. northern Spain. The Picos are split into three distinct massifs by deep gorges running north to south. Potes was an excellent base for access to the Central and eastem massifs and the Cordillera Cantabrica to the south. It is a region of Karst topography, underground rivers, resurgences, deep caves, gorges, steep valleys, sharp peaks and long steep rock faces. The Old hollowed tree-trunk beehives in use in a village above Pates higher mountains reaching up to about 8,700 feet are quite different to most The campsite other ranges visited by members ofthe Our base was on the well appointed club, being almost totally void of campsite 'Las Isla Picos de Europa' in water, quite a problem in the Turieno, about 2km west of Potes, in extremely high temperatures that were Cantabria. (Tel: (942) 73 08 96). The experienced during our stay. staff made us feel most welcome TIle lower pastures and alps above the during our stay, and many of us took gorges offered lush vegetation with advantage of the cooling pleasures of abundant fauna and flora. Probably the the swimming pool during the highlight of the trip was the oppressive heat in the aftemoons. particularly varied bird life, with many Thanks must go to Alan Linford for species not found in the u.K., most finding us such a good base. notably the birds of prey and especially the Griffon Vultures that were a memorable companions on The climate many days in the high mountains. For much ofour stay, the weather was The very steep sided valleys meant generally fine, clear and very, very that reaching the higher levels hot, which meant that copious involved a considerable slog, or use of supplies ofliquid needed carrying on a the comparatively cheap telepherique hips into the waterless landscape of

TIlCYRC Bulletin 59 Summer 1996 the high mountains. Being so close to The Picos by bike by Martyn the Atlantic northern coast of Spain, Wakeman the area was subject to mountain mists Watching the snow falling outside of and summer storms. my window, it seems strange to think Maps and guide books that last August we were in the middle The most useful guide book to the of a heat wave. Then to go cycling area was 'Walks and climbs in the somewhere even hotter seemed to Picos de Europa' by Robin Walker indicate the onset ofcerebral dementia and published by Cicerone Press or something a mite more interesting (£10.95). than a week in Skegness! Maps were somewhat more I had a problem. How exactly was I to problematic, with many inaccuracies transport myself and a mere and deficiencies noted. However, 'sprinkling' of gear to Potes, probably the most useful were the somewhere in Northern Spain. All cars following two maps: seemed full and not fancying a battle with Spanish public transport, I 1:25,000 Los Unielles Y Andara decided to saddle up my bike and find (Macizos Central Y Oriental de Los an excuse for an extension to the Picos de Europa) holiday. This proved to be a smart 1:75,000 Picos de Europa - Mapa move, as 'The Picos by bike' proved Excursionista (Miguel A Adrados) to be one of the most varied and interesting parts of my summer. After Getting there a few frantic phone calls and a gear Apart from a long drive through dump somewhere in Yorkshire, my France, most members travelled to gear was on its way in David Smith's northern Spain, either by Brittany caravan, and I could hop on the ferry Ferries from Portsmouth to Santander, to Santander with my mountain bike or by P&O Ferries from Portsmouth loaded up with four days worth of to Bilbao. The most convenient was delightful Soya mince and noodles undoubtedly the latter, which was only together with lightweight a couple of hours drive through bivvi/camping gear. spectacular gorge scenery to Potes. Rather than extensive planning, I mused over a contourless Michelin map of Northern Spain and plotted a The attendees pleasant looking route around the Ken Aldred John Medley coast and through the mountains to Steve Beresford Alistair Renton Potes. I would cycle as far each day as Christine Beresford David Smith I fancied and bivvi wherever looked Ken Bratt Elspeth Smith suitable, to arrive just as the main Alan Brown Michael Smith YRC pat1y. descended on the CliffCobb Helen Smith campsite. John Devenport Richard Smith Cycling in Spain proved to be both a lain Gilmore Fiona Smith delight and a new experience. I Sarah Gilmore Derek Smithson stormed off the ferry and visited Cabo Mike Godden Bill Todd Mayor lighthouse for a view of the Marcia Godden Juliet White harbour before winding my way along Alan Linford Martyn Wakeman the coast road to Santillana del Mar, a Angie Linford

'lbe YRCBulletin 60 Summer 1996 traditional 'National Trust' style peaks of the Picos could be seen Spanish village, full of nick knack shimmering in the distance, inspiring shops and very photogenic. me to read more of the guide book Continuing on to San Vicente de la and plan strategic bags for the two Barquera for an aftemoon nap, I had a weeks ahead. fairly easy day finishing at a secluded The process to cool down at the campsite at Pechon overlooking a sea campsite consisted of a cold shower bay. This was gained by a steep and a rinse of my sweaty rags before winding road, which exercised low drying in the sun. The campsite was gears for the first time. noisy, with lights on all night, and it The local Spanish holidaymakers even had the cheek to rain! An early seemed impressed by my Goretex start to gain miles in the morning cool bivvi bag as I feasted on huge before the sun became too hot became tomatoes, the dreaded Soya and a wise move as today was the 40 mile noodles, and luscious nectarines. The climb into the mountains, from sea evening was spent skimming stones level passing over several cols to a before a well eamed kip after the sun high point of 1450m. A day to had gone for the day. remember, a road winding around a river into a steepening gorge, The next day's target would be eventually with walls ofrock each side Cangas, which looked pretty easy on and peaks soaring above, beckoning to the map, but this did not show be climbed. The road was rough, pock contours! Being a 'green' scenic road, marked with holes from rock missiles, it wound along by a river through a and as the sun bumed down in full gentle gorge Worried about anger, the tar melted with 'Panaracer dehydration and the weight of canying Smoke' tyre marks visible in the worst too much water on the bike, I had patches. Lunch was a two hour feast gone into camel mode, drinking all I could in the moming, and going for of goats cheese, a whole fresh loaf, two litres of water and more only two bottles on the bike. Just nectarines in a strategically placed before lunch time as the sun blazed rural Spanish village. down, I was low on water, and needing a rest when a hill, or rather a Ever onwards, ever upwards was the pass, which did not register on the motto for the day but the heat was map. I thought I would combust, it incredible, with sweat pouring off and was so hot! The exchange of pesetas rests in the woods by the road for water and nectarines in a shop like necessary to cool down once every someone's living room at the top was hour. At last, the summit, or rather the very welcome, as was the fantastic first col, was gained followed a few free wheel down nearly all the way to more uphill bits before a tyre humming Changes. kamikaze dive down the other side, losing height very quickly, braking Some mountain biking up a rough very hard at comers to avoid meeting stony track lead me to my tourist stop my maker earlier than desired. for the day, the Cueva del Buxu. These are supposed to be caves with A lovely campsite with just some basic wall paintings, but the exterior ones loos and the mandatory cold shower revealed nothing and the rest were was found a few kilometres before held off by a locked door. With only Posada de Valdon. This was in a field the local flies for company, the main surrounded by a tiny village out of a

The YRCBulletin 61 Summer 1996 time warp, tumbling houses with no Ascent of Pico Tesorero (2570m) glass in the windows, women dressed by lain Gilmour in black, carts full of hay, with a backdrop of the harsh rock peaks of When AIan and Angie Linford the Picos. suggested a look at a nice hill somewhere over on the left, two Next day, I could either ascend two willing members, John Devenport and more giant passes and come into Potes lan Gilmour, joined the party. One from the south, or try a Land Rover hesitates to detail the :first part of the track which I had spotted on a large trip, for from our campsite at 1,100 ft. scale map. This track was said to be we motored to Fuente De at 3,600 ft. uncycleable, so with all the more and then took the cable car to 6,017 reason to give it a bash I set off. The ft. Our cable car rose through cloud first pass was gained via a narrow and into brilliant sunshine and cool air, and steep road out of Posada de Valdon the views over a cloud sea were which gave way to a modem road reminiscent offlying. which led to the top. Engaging :first gear I spurred my wheel offthe road The landscape around us was a vast and onto the track, which would save arena of limestone peaks with jagged road miles and prove greatly more outlines like Sgurr nan Gillean, but of interesting. The track did prove great a warm golden colour. Between the fun, a monster slog, but I eventually peaks lay hollow depressions, called arrived at the top at 1800m, with an hoyos, with a strange almost lunar awesome view of the massif and the appearance. There is almost no valley down towards Potes. vegetation, due to the altitude and over grazing by the few sheep and The descent down the other side native rebecos (a small deer like proved one of the best of my life, animal with thin backward curving 800m height loss down rough Land horns). The lack ofwater necessitates Rover tracks (the latter one later carrying two or three litres for a long ascended by the Nissan 4 x 4 tourist day. party) twisting and turning over the hard dry track, dodging boulders and Some three miles from the cable car pot holes. Stops had to be made due station, we reached the Veronica Hut to the temperature of the rims at 7,600 ft. Near this hut, a band of decomposing the brake blocks, and different rock had weathered to even with oil/air front suspension, the expose thousands of fossils including descent was eyeball wobbling as I tubular worms (crinoids) which had hammered down to the cable car at existed on ancient sea beds. Fuente De before chasing a coach At this stage AIan casually mentioned down to the campsite. that we would be alright, as he had a An amazing start to the holiday, a real rope in his rucksack. Could it be that adventure for me being in a foreign our look at the peak might require land and not speaking a word of the climbing gear, rather than spectacles lingo and totally reliant on my bike not or binoculars? There was no need to falling to pieces. Just feeling free to be apprehensive, for the South West cycle where I fancied amidst glorious ridge of Tesorero gave a splendid surroundings, sleeping under the stars scramble over warm and dry rock with and soaking in the real Spanish plenty of holds and no difficulties. culture. Good grimping rock was the verdict.

The YRC Bulletin 62 Summer 1996 Tesorero, 8,430 ft., is a splendid layer. Our path followed closely the viewpoint for the whole ofthe Central Rio Buron before opening out into a Massif and incidentally, is the junction playa. Much of the vegetation was point of three provinces, Asturias, extremely prickly and no help in the Cantabria and Castilla-Leon. ascent, the rough texture of the rock on the other hand was a great asset. Returning by the East ridge and viewing a spectacular rock arch on the A little higher the river divided, we skyline, we descended to the col at followed the course of the Canal de 7,700 ft. Two of the party made the las Arredondas in which flows the Rio twenty minute dash up Torre de de la Vega in wetter times. The rocky Horcados Rojos by the walkers path. canal took us to the deserted zinc and Our return to the cable car was lead mines ofMina de las Arredondas memorable for the sighting of four above Le Campa. To gain respite from Griffon vultures soaring on the the sweltering heat we penetrated the afternoon breeze and thermals. workings for 100 yards or so, an Looking at the hills is a splendid arrow pointing the way out marked pastime. the junction oftwo passages. Later we discovered that Derek and Martyn had put it there during their search for Pico de Grajal Abajo (2248m) water a week earlier. by David Smith Refreshed by the cool air we moved Midway through the second week of carefully up the course of the canal the meet, lain suggested that we have over steep and very sharp rock to the a day on the hills together, joined by 2193m col. It was a mere 55m below Steve with an objective high above the the easily gained summit of the grand tiny village of Lon. We had sounding named mountain, Pico de contemplated walking direct from the Grajal de Abajo. Had there been mist campsite but after second thoughts we and had we walked 2 metres beyond went by car giving us a 520m start. the magnificent cairn, we would have Our tired feet were to be very glad of plunged 2000 feet down the this by the end ofthe long day. precipitous northern edge of the mountain into the Vega del Hoyo Lon straddles the hillside with Oscuro. How different the mountain picturesque old houses joined by steep must look from the north facing side? rough concrete roads. Quite soon the road degenerated into a dusty track We enjoyed the views, we took leading upwards, :first through pictures and we rested in the sunshine woodland providing shade from the before our descent to Lon. We had merciless sun, then across two small ascended 5,700 feet to make the newly cut meadows before opening climb, it was a great day in the out into a deep valley. A layer of mountains, but with good weather, cloud had to be passed through before goods views, good health and good we emerged back into the sunshine. company, what more could any man want. The cotton wool cloud totally obscured the valley. The mountain Lone mountain climbing may suit peaks look like islands in a billowing some, but for my part let me share the sea, the Cantabrian mountains experiences and the pleasures with like contrasting sharply with the cloud minded friends.

The YRC Bulletin 63 Summer 1996 The Eastern Massif ofwater from which to :fill our bottles. This appeared to feed from melting by Martyn Wakeman snow, but was probably laced with Having already climbed several peaks whatever metal they used to mine. in the Western massif I jumped at the Cliffs rose above us, and the chance to accompany Derek Smithson contrasting green of the valley on one of his legendary expeditions. woodland could be seen providing a One ofthe greatest joys ofbeing in the grand stance to spend a happy mountains is camping or bivvying up evening. Tails of past mountain trips high where the grandeur and solitude were exchanged, and the wonder of of the mountains can really soak in. snow shoes explained before a long We therefore accompanied the 'Last leisurely tea finishing with Derek's of the summer wine' in Alan's Landy super luxury lemon crunch pudding. to the village of Lon and departed on Two slugs appeared as we wriggled our way with bivvi gear and enough into bivvi bags for a splendid night's food for three days, slapping greedy sleep, escaping the fug of the valley. insects off our legs. We walked When we awoke, low cloud swirled through the wooded lowlands to around, but after several brews it emerge onto a lovely grassy began to clear. Packs on, we climbed prominence, above which the peaks up to the ridge in the cool of the mist soared and the rest ofthe route could before leaving un-needed gear cached be seen. This would have made an for the return. The ring of peaks that excellent base camp for attacking this form the backbone of the Andora area if supplies could be helicoptered Massif provided an excellent days .I m. scrambling, culminating in the Morra Captivated by the scenery, we took a de Lechugales (2444m), a towering wrong turn following a stream bed prow of rock like a ships bow, with until a huge chockstone blocked our views of the western massif and the way. The following ascent of a steep valley below. Traversing back, we grassy bank, which felt near vertical, discovered why the 'La Rasa de la was hair raising and decidedly dodgy, Inagotable' had that particular name. especially with a big pack, but we Traversing around its rocky terraces, soon retraced our steps onto the we avoided scaling it's cliffs which correct route. A climb through scree would make an excellent day in their led to a lunch stop of bread, goats own right. cheese and jam before continuing up After regaining our sacs, we climbed the miners track to the Mina de las La Junciana and Pico del Sagrado Arredondas. People who slogged up Corazon where the cast statue of St here each day deserve respect - they Carlos glimmered in the sun and were hard in those days. Here was vultures swooped overhead. An supposed to be a mine shaft where enormous wing feather fi..om one of water could be collected from a drip in the birds was found and added to our the tunnel roof, and we mused on the motley appearance, sticking out ofmy likelihood of this as we searched for karrimat. the appropriate mine shaft. The descent down scree of Canal de After some exploring, it was time to San Carlos revealed numerous pot don Petzels and grovel in the gloom holes which begged for exploration, for about lOOm before finding a pool but time was pressing and we

The YRC Bulletiu 64 Summer 1996 ------

continued down the track. This is Flowers of the Picos de Europa where the fun really started as the map by Cliff Cobb and ground didn't agree despite determined efforts to make them do High summer is not the best time for so! After a bit of a fat: we basically alpine flowers, but we were very headed downward by wandering along agreeably surprised at the wealth of tracks and paths through the woods flowers encountered, particularly in towards the valley. Attempts at the higher, completely arid mountain communicating in Spanish farmers areas. resulted in confusion, but at least their A typical example; while lunching dog didn't eat us. Slowly the tracks among the jumble of rocks merged into bigger ones and we found immediately below the Veronica cabin signs of life in a small village nestling we saw a beautiful example of in the woods. campanula thriving in a tiny crevice, When confronted by a local lady as to its roots no doubt penetrating feet (or our activities, she seemed awe struck metres) into the rock. that we had visited the St Carlos A further notable point was the statue and we extracted ourselves occasional sudden change ill from her presence before we were any geological formation, with a later home. A simple walkout back to corresponding change in the flora. the campsite then resulted and satisfied explorers could take offtheir Two special memories for me - the boots, rest their feet, fill their wide expanse of the 'merendera' on stomachs and tell tales to their the edge of the Vega de Liordes companions. Thank you Derek for valley, and secondly the superb steel your company and for an excellent blue thistles (eryngium bourgatii), lit two days! be the brilliant sun, a colour I believe impossible to capture on film One disappointment was the absence ofany gentians, presumably due to the predominantly calcareous rock, although other members did see trumpet gentians (g. acaulis) in one of the surrounding valleys.

List of flowers Achilles erba-rotta Simple leaf milfoil Arabis vochinensis Compact rockress Campanula Various Crepis Hawksbeard Dianthus Various These contraptions were seen in several of Doronicus grandiflorum Large flowered the villages on the hills round Potes. leopardsbane Two villages had older, wooden versions. Erica Various Each contraption is large enough to restrain Eryngium bourgatii Pyrenean eryngo a horse, cow or donkey, possibly while Geranium Various vetenary or shoeing work is carried out. Geum montanum Alpine avens The top rails may support a shelter. Iris latifolia English iris Linaria origanifolia Toadflax

The YRCBulletin 65 Summer 1996 Lithodora oleifolia Shrubby gromwell gammg height early had a special Lithodora purpurocaerulla Blue gromwell appeal. It was our first exposure to Now Buglossoides typical Picos de Europa terrain. Steep­ Lunaris redivivar Honesty Merendera montana sided 'dolomite-shaped' mountains Parnassia palustris Grass of Parnassus with jagged ridges, seemingly Pinguicala No flowers but typical inaccessible in all but a few places. pale yellow/green foliage The steepness of every approach Petasites albus White butter-burr brought the ridges closer so we were Potentilla cinerea Grey cinquefoil constantly aware of the grandeur of Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby cinquefoil Rhodiola rosea Roseroot our surroundings. Sepervivus montanum Mountain houseleek Day one also gave us an early Silene acaulis Moss campion Viola pyrenaica Pyrenean violet awareness of the profusion of alpine flowers and plants, which in turn, Although not identified, we ahnost attracted the greatest variety of certainly saw saxifrages and possibly butterflies most ofus had seen, details androsaces among the many yellow of which are listed later. The and white flowers amongst the grass backpackers slowly pulled ahead and undergrowth. whilst the rest of the party absorbed the spectacular mountain scenery of the Arredondas, an experience we Rambling in the Picos were to enjoy throughout the next fortnight, by Alan Brown At 1,200 metres, Las Cabanas It was disconcerting to discover back in March that the Plymouth / provided an acceptable tunring point Santander ferry was fully booked for our first day, the nine hour trek coupled with the heat being a good throughout July and August needing space for caravans or trailers. initiation for the days ahead. However, the longer Portsmouth to The crowded campsite reflected the Bilbao ferry fare included cabin national holiday period, yet apart from accommodation so this, coupled with the routes served directly by the cable the shorter motoring distance for car, we met very few kindred spirits Northerners, made the cost roughly on the hills. On two occasions we the same. A good motorway between attracted other walkers who Bilbao and Santander enabled us to mistakenly believed we could be relied reach the Potes campsite in three and on to finish a promising route in an a halfhours. orderly fashion. Aniezo, 10 kilometres east ofPotes was the starting point for Derek wanted to be off on a three day a steep ascent to the Ermita de trek as soon as possible, so day one Nuestra Sra de la Luz - a hilltop came with a 05.30 reveille. The village church a couple of hours from the of Lon, some ten minutes west of village - where we casually noted a Potes was clearly asleep as four party of five Spaniards and two walkers and two backpackers set off Swedish walkers. The circular route up the River Buron heading for the continued north-west along a good Canal de las Arredondas, Best avoided path, which then curved sharply south, during very hot weather intoned the disappearing into a steep heavily guide book, but very hot weather was wooded valley. Whilst reasonably sure a prominent feature of this meet, so of our general direction, the scarcely

The YRC Bulletin 66 Summer 1996 discernible path soon disappeared forming higher rock faces above. A altogether, and it was at this juncture number of isolated hamlets and small that we discovered the Spaniards and villages depending upon agriculture Swedes confidently attached to the were another difference from the rear ofour party. The angle ofdescent barren area above Fuente De. It was called for much hanging on to trees two of these villages which we visited, and branches, but the thick taking the road by tunnels driven undergrowth eventually gave way to through solid rock to bypass some open meadows, where recently very steep limestone faces. \on a shelf harvested hay allowed an easier stroll at the head ofthe valley, the further of down to the village. Profuse thanks the two villages appeared to offer an from our continental friends ended ideal holiday situation for the artist. A another good eight hour day. small church, an inn and delightful The Canal del Embudo is traversed by pantiled houses had an air of climbing 950m from the cable car restfulness in the mid-afternoon sun. A station at Fuente De, via 38 small group ofchildren played quietly. unforgivinghairpins, warned the guide Perhaps it is uncharitable to suggest book. The valley below and the that their lack of boisterousness was vertical south wall of La Padiorna to the result ofthe high temperature. The the north provided breathtaking views, variable bedrock supported a wider the torture ending with arrival in the range offlora than the solid limestone Vega de Liordes, a high alpine to the north, for the shale provided meadow surrounded on all sides by not only a different chemical base but high mountain ridges. A circular route it also appeared to retain moisture in home over the southern ridges looked within the rock. This resulted both altogether too demanding so we calcareous and acid loving plants as headed due north encouraged by a well as large trees which were taciturn Scot who knew the area and completely absent from the former understood our intentions. Here again area. A couple of footpaths winding we were joined by a middle aged along the upper reaches of the valley couple, dressed for an easy day in the gave us a series ofplatforms for views country, who were dissuaded from the of the villages and lonely farm houses, southern route. They were a game whilst the village inn was a welcome halt before returning to the campsite. couple willing but not used to the scrambling necessary over the Sedo de Finally, and with the assistance of a la Padierna and the Canal de Santa four wheel drive car taking us over Luis. Their inadequate water supplies spectacular mountain country to the caused further delays but the top of starting point at Cain, we traversed the cable car was reached in time and the Cares Gorge - Spain's answer to our guests happily plied us with cool the Grand Canyon. Much smaller of drinks before the drive back to camp. course, but very impressive, albeit the Whilst many days were spent on the most popular tourist route in the whole ofthe Picos de Europa. arid limestone area to the north west of Potes, some time was enjoyed in This was a :fine Alpine Meet, where the more varied area to the south and few actually missed the snow and south-west. Here the limestone masses where exposure to only a small area of were replaced by shale valleys with Picos de Europa territory wetted the large whaleback ribs of limestone appetite for more.

The YRC Bulletin 67 Summer 1996 Butterflies and moths observed in from the maps, it seemed reasonable the Picos by Alan Brown to consider dropping down to the road Apollo Large Copper through the Aliva area whence back to El Cable in good time for the last Blues - various * Large Fritillary * Brimstone Marble White cable car at 21. 00 hours. Best Burnett Moth Orange available advice (in imperfectly understood Spanish) was not to go (Six spot) Underwing straight down from the col but to Camberwell Painted Lady follow on below the ridge a little way Beauty Peacock Cleopatra Ringlet in a northerly direction and pick up what traces oftracks there were. This Clouded Yellow Scarce worked quite successfully; there were Common Heath Swallowtail Common Heath Tiger Moth numerous calms about, which tended teasingly to discontinue in awkward Gatekeeper Tortoiseshell places but. which were eventually * There are 44 varieties of Fritillary connected with a large painted snow­ and 42 varieties of Blue. The author pole in the middle ofa heavily cratered regrets that precise identification cannot be confirmed, area. from there the route seemed to go slightly uphill, then downwards again, following still capricious A long day in the Picos intermittent cairns and treacherously be-pebbled rock that at one point by John Medley precipitated a damaging tumble. It is traditional for the alpine meets of Eventually the slopes ran out to an the YRC to produce at least one edge, with the valley floor and road in mountain sequence sufficiently tantalising view less than 100 metres diverting and eyebrow raising to below, but here progress stopped, one require individual report. This time it member ofthe party being unprepared fell to the Old Gentlemen to provide to be committed to the only possible it. route that presented itself So back to From El Cable, the top of the the col', there should still be time to telerifiqo above Fuente De, it is a climb up, cross the ridge and catch the pleasant excursion to Pena Vieja last cable car. summit, whither four of the maturest The snow pole was regained .in Members on the meet made their way reasonable time, but then there was in the mounting heat ofthe moming of trouble. Indications ofpaths lead in all Saturday 29 July. one goes westerly directions, but one (uncaimed) was up the path towards the Cabana chosen which approached the high Veronica, then hard right up the gully ground to the north, perhaps to the Col Canalona and back remembering the difficult terrain eastwards along the ridge, then opposite and the original high level bearing left up the slope to the top of detour from the col. The ridge was the mountain. It was leisurely and eventually gained but a considerable pleasant; lunch on the summit. distance from the col, with many Back to the col, where thoughts arose obstacles between. It took a long time about an alternative route back. to come down again and work across, Although it was understood that eventually arriving at a little snow precise information could be extracted slope from which the col was known

The YRC Bulletin 68 Summer 1996 to be readily accessible. But it was The walk down to San Aniezo is already nearly dark, with cloud awful, but again a reward with a very building up in the high valleys below. close view of Short Toed Eagle - we All hope had gone ofmaking El Cable did not know what it was at the time in time; the aim now was to get down and had to consult the guide book to to the Refuge de Aliva and telephone confirm the sighting. This proved to reassurance before anybody noticed a be the start of a bounty of bird life: certain empty Landrover. Linnet, Red Kite, Black Kite, Black Redstart, Com Bunting, Snow In vain! The party admired the lights Finches, Wheatears, Choughs, of 'civilisation' just below the mist and Juvenile Robin, Buzzards, Eagles, stumbled, first into young campers Rock Thrush, Hobby, Juvenile playing games with lantems on poles, Kestrel, Tree Creepers and Rock and then into a parked Garda vehicle Thrush, that had been sent to look for confused old gentlemen reported lost We searched extensively for the Wall in the mountains. The driver was Ve1Y Creeper but failed to spot it, a lot of kind, but made it clear geriatric screeching as the Hobby swept across escapades should not be exacerbated the cliffs but no sighting. by attempting to explain in Spanish. It was the Raptors that held the Most of the meet seemed to have attention, the Egyptian Vulture and tumed up at Fuente De to assist; it Eagles only students - the master of was a happy occasion though the air is the Griffon Vulture. In the embarrassing to some and by 0200 Cares Gorge we counted twenty - ten hours everybody was in camp and in circling in a small valley - then bed. approaching closer a sighting at 200 metres of a group of Griffons feeding on a carcass. The carcass had been Bird watching in the Picos tom into two with a group on each, by Alan Linford fighting between themselves, the Bird watching in the Picos can group hierarchy clearly visible. It is seriously damage your determination not only the huge wingspan which to achieve the days objective. There is attracts the attention but the depth of so much to watch that delays are the wing needed to provide lift for the inevitable. giant body (and ugly head). On the traverse ofthe Pena Remona (2,247m) Once again, Alistair's series of we were above a group of circulating mishaps provided a benefit, his early Griffons, again at close quarters. We morning arrival having overnighted witnessed the efficiency.of this large under a hedge with a broken cycle, wing, the control movements of the delayed a start to climb El Cvemon - a primary feathers and the air flow over vantage point to obtain an overall the wing the lifting of the feathers in perspective ofthe Central and Eastem the depression zone. What a marvel of Massif Not a pleasant walk in the natural engineering. heat of the day, but rewarded with gentians on the alp, a first view of a Despite trips into woodland areas we Griffon Vulture and, our retum, a leave until our next visit sightings of close view of a pair of Black Capercaillie, Tree Pipits, Owls and Woodpeckers in the holmoak forest. Nightjars: all reported in the area.

The YRC Bulletin 69 Summer 1996 Peaks and Passes - Two people's Juliet did a nature walk on Sunday adventures in Northern Spain with Teresa Farino, the local expert, while I conserved my strength to by Bill Todd and Juliet White climb a peak. So, 10.25 a.m. found us You couldn't move for Yorkshiremen leaving the top of El Cable in good in Spain this summer. Apart from heart to attempt Torre de Los when we visited the camp site and Hocardos Rojos. But the weather got were hospitably entertained, and when worse and worse, and at the zigzags it we walked with Ian and Sarah we met started raining and blowing, so we them in the supermarkets, on the cable scuttled into the Cabana Veronica for car, in the car park and several lots in hot soup which proved to be a life the Cares Gorge. This was our first saver. By the time we'd finished our days walking after arriving on the soup (100 pesetas per cup) a queue meet a week late and will no doubt had formed in the hut entrance so we have been competently covered by had to go out into the storm and eat other members. our lunch behind a boulder. An The following day was uneventful; we attempt to explore towards Hocardos drove to Fuente De and because there Rojos met with more wind and rain in was cloud on top went for a walk up our faces so we beat a retreat. the track to Collado de Pedabejo. We heard from neighbour, Dolores, Returning from this at lunch time we about a fatal accident on Sunday 6th took advantage of improving weather involving people from Santander. We to go up the Teleferico. We hadn't gathered that a land rover had gone been there very long when cloud came over a cliffwhile on the way to a fiesta down again after a tantalising view of on top of a mountain. This was our the big peaks. I can foresee the second day with Mike, our host and embarrassing question at my next slide guide, and we left it to him to show us show, ''Did you climb it?". "No", a good day out. Driving through the "Why not?". "Bad weather". "It looks Vinon, we parked his land rover under alright on that photo". "Yes but it got Pena Jumales and set off up the track misty". "A likely tale". to Madaja Trulledes. On a bend we TIns was Wednesday 2 August and met three fellows. It tumed out that Juliet insisted on treating it as a rest one of them was. the son of the man day because we hadn't climbed who had been killed and he had come anything. So the next day we went up up with a friend and a local shepherd the highest peak in the Cordillera to see the actual location of the Cantabrica. tragedy. It seemed that the long wheel-based vehicle had not been able On Saturday 5th we did a classic walk, to take the bend in one, and reversing the circuit of the Pena Remona. This to get round, had run down the very involved following our Wednesday steep track and over the edge before track right up to Collardo de Pedabejo the driver could re-engage first gear. and crossing it into the Vega de After due commiseration we went on Liordes. This is a delightful green up to the Majado where we had lunch. basin with horses and campers and After this Mike took us up a very after walking across it in poorer steep pass, the Collardo de San Carlos weather we descended the famous to about 2000 metres, while I stayed zigzags from Collardo del Embudo. on the pass to take photographs. The

The YRC Bulletin 70 Summer 1996 return journey saw better weather and time after 2pm Westward was the we saw a wall creeper and a guinea summit tower, looking a bit like Sgurr fowl. Alastair from Sron na Ciche, and eastwards was the ridge looking a bit Friday August 11th was the day your like Crib Goeh, Over lunch in the hot idle scribe got his second and third sun we discussed what to do next. It summits. Mike was our guide again was too late for a serious attempt on and we motored through Hennida and the summit and Juliet was not keen on turned left to the village of Beges, reversing what we had just done, where we bough cheese. After this neither was 1. So we took the only Mike took us over the north-east choice left and followed the east ridge shoulder ofAgero Bis (1349m) into a just below the crest until we came to a misty wood. "I've not been this way green track sloping through the slab before" he said as we picked our way area. This was evidently the normal through the beech trees, ''but we way up to the ridge because we found should come out on the ridge you can a toffee paper on it. We were glad to see from the guest house". Of course get back into easy ground but not too we did and came out of the clouds chuffed to see a couple strolling along finding some limestone to scramble on the ridge beyond where we had left it before hitting the top and crossing to in bathing trunks and bikini the slightly lower Agero at 133Om, respectively. Today was notable for the weird shapes assumed by the cloud sea Sunday 13th was our last day and below us and for the view of Pena Mike engaged our interest by Ventosa across the Deva valley. Mike mentioning a "user friendly crag". This knew a grassy descent route to Beges. was on the lower slopes ofAgero and has the same name. Here we spent a Pena Ventosa looked interesting and pleasant, if roasting, day climbing on Mike advised us to tackle it from the V. Diff rock and abseiling. A good south east, so the following day, Juliet finish. and I drove to the nearby village of Solarzon and walked up into the For our stay, Casa Gustavo proved fields. Yes, the peak looked quite wonderful, at £25.72 per person reasonable; between the steep south per day full board, with all ofthe beer face and an area of limestone slabs or wine you wanted at the evening was a harmless looking grassy gully meal which was very good; 3 course, which led onto the ridge, from where but served quite late (about 9 p.m.) it may have been possible to tackle the for an early bed and early start. steep final tower. So above an Continental breakfast (plus cereals and awkward stretch of bracken and fruit) was 9 a.m. but we could get it broom we climbed a scree slope then earlier on request. On one such got onto our chosen route. What a occasion, Mike came running out with shambles it was. Scree under grass our packed lunches as we were driving and more broom, loose rock, Juliet away. was in front. ''What do I do ifa hold is loose?" ''Put it to one side and see what's underneath it" I replied. As these things do, it seemed to be going to level out in a few yards but it never did until we struck the ridge some

The YRC Bulletin 71 Summer 1996 A great big pile of stones - Pena backdrop of the Picos. But keep Prieta in the 80's by Juliet White going, there's walking to do, a 6.30 rendezvous at the Land Rover with Picnic lunch had been among Pena the rest of the patty, and many more Prieta's cast-offs. Ten to twenty foot stony delights ahead. lumps of nut brittle (sorry, conglomerate) thrown across an Soon we were at the trigpoint at upland lawn divided by tiny streams Mojon de las Tres Provincias and known as 'The rock garden'. A (2497m), the boundary marker for leisurely lunch. The two small boys in Leon, Cantabria and Palencia. Time our patty and Bibi, the dog, for drinks and to take in at greater entertaining us with bouldering fun leisure this glorious view ofthe world and games. Towards two o'clock we from 7000 feet plus; the Riano said goodbye, six going up to the lake, reservoir, crazy limestone fault castle, and Bill, Mike (our host and guide) real forests dense enough to shelter not forgetting Bibi, who takes a bears, clouds in the valleys, and the mountain climb as exuberantly as your great wall of Atlantic cloud to the average city pooch would take a north that we saw so often during our scamper around Clapham Common, stay in the Picos. heading for the top ofPena Prieta. The way ahead, the other half of the I've never climbed on such user­ horseshoe leading to Pena Prieta fiiendly rock as the first stretch. Hand­ tumed out to be a long trail across sized pebbles set in rock with pebble black and rust coloured angular stones sized hollows for your feet. Thus we like ballast on a railway track, ugly set off up the north-eastern ridge of and laborious to budge on. "Il faut our mountain. It should have been a souffiir pour voir le bel". Forget the piece of nut-brittle cake, but it was pebbles and look at the valley clouds hot, hot siesta time. Did I eat too and the hills to the hills east glowing much lunch? Is this altitude sickness? I pink and gold as the sun gets kinder. didn't like these reminders that I can't Peace of mind is a good thing when stay twenty-five for ever. So you're climbing, but at some stage on concentrate on getting those heavy the way up your mountaineering arms and legs to take you upwards. apprentice has to summon the courage One tricky exposed neck to negotiate to ask the question ''How do we get and then the gradient eased. down7" ''Two ways really" said Mike. "That was the hardest bit. The rest is Can you scree run7 It would be straightforward" said Mike. So with quicker and more fun. I'll hold your my usual inward reservations about hand." what an experienced mountaineer Well if Mike and Bill thought that I describes to me as "straightforward" I could cope, pride dictated that I contemplated the unbroken upward should smile gamely and be prepared curve of grit and gravel ahead of us. to tackle yet another first in my Ugly and gritty underfoot, but what mountaineering apprenticeship. views were starting to open up. Cordillera Cantabrica stretching into Not much time to linger at the top of infinity in three directions. My very the Pena Prieta. Similar vast views as first view of one of those much read we'd seen en route, except that now about mountain ranges. Tum round we could peer down almost vertically and at our backs stands the craggy to the Rio Frio summer pastures,

The YRC Bulletin 72 Summer 1996 where our walking had started, to the time for a swim in the lake before we Rock Garden where we had picnicked, caught up with him. and to the lake, where we could see Then there were no more stones. the rest of our party, splashing, Perfect green pasture with delicately chasing and bathing. positioned musk mallow, bell flowers I did do the scree run. Teetering like a and purple merendas, Grazing cattle, toddler, this granny lurched through goats and sheep as before. Just one the clattering pebbles holding Mike's thing had changed. While we were up hand, while the dog scampered around on the mountain, the easy mile or two us and descending muscles starting to from the Land Rover to the picnic plead for walk's end. Bill and I spot had surreptitiously quadrupled. finished the gentler gradients of the Honest they did. It's not only Einstein scree so slowly that Mike had had who could tell you about relativity!

Picos Experience (5 August 1995) by Bill Todd

The rain in Spain falls mainly in the hills, We found out yesterday on our descent. The grassy plateau bright with sinuous rills, And varied with the occasional mountain tent Gave onto a steep zigzag down and down To reach the Fuente valley far below. We took it cautiously with careful step, Like Agag placing fine each heel and toe.

When suddenly the heavens opened wide, 'Twas more than just a little summer shower. On narrow path we could not turn aside There wasn't even room for a wild flower.

So exercising all our craft and skill, We doffed our sacks and took out our cagoules And donned them on that steep and stormy hill. The rain then stopped, we felt such awful fools.

The YRCBulletin 73 Summer 1996 Multi-day tours in the Picos a dripping birch wood and then an alpine meadow with at least two tents by David Smithson and no signs of water. I sat and read This was my first summer meet in for a while hoping the mist would Continental Europe with the YRC. clear and when it didn't, I took the Martin Wakeman documents of an straightforward Canal de Asotin. This initial two day traverse of the Eastern led me above the mist and through a Massif but after that I was left to series of alpine meadows with their travel alone. Should I "read" multitude offlowers and butterflies on something into that? My routes were a bright green grass, which contrasted four day traverse ofthe Central Massif to the stark grey rock. The day and four days pottering around Vega finished fairly early with my arrival at de Liordes, an alpine meadow at a Vega de Liordes with an almost height of just under 2000m, where perfect bivouac site. martin Wakeman horses and cattle graze all the time and had given me some instructions on where Spanish chamois, rebeccos, bivouac sites and cooking muesli, have a daytime feed. A very lovely which will perhaps change my life place to be, without too many visitors style. I had made a simple bivvy bag and much cooler than the lower from some cheap waterproof valleys. breathable nylon and first used it with After a hard journey from El Cable to Martin who is a bivvy addict. I didn't Bulnes, i.e. from the south to the use my tent in the mountains at all. north of the mountains of the Central Later, I discovered that the journey Massif I had an exhausting day going from El Cable to Vega de Liordes is through the Cares Gorge and up the not so easy or simple as I expected. road to Cordinane, all in intense This land of sharp rock with sunshine. Bulnes has no road access, innumerable holes, hollows and gullies but two delightful little gorges, an is difficult to traverse, but most routes auberge, a bar and a camp site. The have occasional cairns. The cairns Cares Gorge has the same lack ofreal appear to comfort one when on a atmosphere as Dove Dale on a bank route but are not so obvious and holiday, but on the next day I enjoyed frequent to allow relaxation. I met a great variety. I walked out of Dutch couple who followed cairns and Cordinane with four litres of water found they had transferred routes because I could not guarantee getting without noticing. On my first visit to water in the next 24 hours. I had Liordes I had made an attempt on cooked my evening meal by the public Tone de Salinas with the idea that I fountain and bivouacked just out of might be able to traverse onto Tone town where the path approaches a del Hoyo de Liordes. I was distracted serious looking cliff This is a region by some cairns and struggled up a of serious looking cliffs and many of scree slope which seemed to lead them look more and more impossible nowhere except a chockstone. On my the longer one looks. I settled to sleep second visit, I walked to the top of an hoping the mist would get no wetter adjacent pass, Collado de Remona, and that the route would show itselfin but found no sign of a recognised the morning. The route appeared as a route up Tone de Salinas or up Tone path ingeniously winding up and Pedabejo. I enjoyed a scramble across around the cliff This was followed by the rocky mountain side to the bottom

Tuc YRC Bulletin 74 Summer 1996 ofthe ridge I originally intended to try ofthe notice at the telepherique up to before the cairns redirected me. I now El Cable warning one of the existence felt the cairns might be pointing to this ofbears. ridge, but after some easy climbing I Needless to say there are lots more came to a pitch beyond my courage walking routes ofquality and plenty of and descended to have lunch at my mountains other than the ones I was bivouac. Tone Pedabejo had appeared on, but for much of this I would impossible from the pass, but now I recommend having a companion. I saw a back door up the grass slope totally neglected the lower valleys and near my camp. It worked, and after would suggest cooler weather would getting to the top ofTone Pedabejo, I make them more pleasant and the use managed to traverse back onto the of a car make them more accessible. next peak in the direction of Pena The sharp rock made the fingers sore Remona before the mountains became but provided an unbelievable friction too difficult. There is obviously a lot grip for the feet of anyone who does of fun to be had playing on these not usually climb in Skye or similar mountains and the guide book shows places in Norway. that there are recognised routes up for those who demand success. After this On my penultimate day a flotilla of I made a visit to the hut on Collado cigar shaped alpine storm clouds Jermoso which is magnificently appeared and I took the precaution of situated. There, a lady told me that the sleeping in a hut. There was no storm cows on Vega de Liordes have a where I was, but the evening mists reputation for eating tents, clothes and were worse than usual, and for my provisions and she considered I'd been final there were clouds on the high very lucky having no problem There mountains and a cold wind that made is a cabin where people can leave gear me think about getting gloves out. As safe from the cows. She also told me I started to descend the interminable

The YRC Bulletin 75 Summer 1996 zigzags to Fuente De, a rebecco stood Three days into two on a promontory watching me leave, a by John Devenport vulture soared high above the spires of rock, around me were flowers and The best laid plans often need butterflies, and beside me a line of revising, particularly in mountainous impassable cliffs. areas such as the Picos de Europa, as Michael Smith and myself found out. Neither ofus had ever been to such a mountain landscape as the incredible limestone deserts ofthe upper parts of the Picos, with their peculiar features and absence of water, and it was evident that navigation in anything Tour 1 other than perfect visibility could be a El Cable - Horcados Rojos ­ major problem The object of our Vega Urriello - meadow above planned three day hip was to see some Bulnes of the sights of the Picos, namely the Bulnes - Cares Gorge - Cain ­ Cares Gorge and the main symbol of hillside above Cordinanes the mountains of this part of Spain, the Naranjo de Bulnes. Asotin - Vega de Liordes Helen transported us to the start ofthe Vega de Liordes - attempt Tone Cares Gorge at Cain, an incredible car de Salinas - Fuente De journey in itself, with the road at one stage seemingly petering out in a farmyard, but it eventually led into the start of the gorge. After a welcome cup for coffee at a small cafe, the two of us set off in overcast weather into the deep, deep gorge forming an amazing natural barrier around the western / north-western edge of the Central Massif The path is an amazing feat of engineering, cut into the sheer sides ofthe precipitous rock walls, following the line of an Tour 2 aqueduct dating back to the 1940's. El Cable -Colladina de las Two bridges across the gorge provide Nieves - Vega de Liordes spectacular viewpoints to the river Vega de Liordes - attempt Tone many, many feet below. The 11m ofthe gorge and peaks rising into the clouds, de Salinas - Tone Pedabejo ­ Liordes were many, many feet above. It is evidently a very popular route, as it is Liordes - Sedo de la Padiema ­ very easy walking along the mainly Pico de la Padierna - Collado level path, and about half way along, Jermosa - attempt Torre del after lunch and an excellent view of an Llambrion - Refuge Diego Mella eyrie, with an eagle feeding its young, Refuge Diego Mella - Sedo de la we opted for a steep descent down a Padierna - Fuente De scree path into what we though was the bottom of the gorge, to get away

TIle YRC Bulletin 76 Summer 1996 from the crowds. Even when we Fuente De the following day, so opted reached the low point, we were still a to return via a lower, but much more considerable distance above the river. circuitous route via Invernales del Texu, near Sotres and the Valle del Interest in the gorge decreased as it Duje, in the cloud for virtually all of opened out somewhat as we approached Poncebos, but our the way, with only tantalising glimpses destination for the day was Bulnes, so ofthe peaks and precipices above. The first part of the route followed a very we turned up a side gorge, the Canal narrow path through dripping del Tejo that lead us steeply up to the vegetation, rather like walking in a village. By the time we reached the ancient hamlet, the clouds were light sauna. I wasn't sure how effective the waterproofs were in such high down and it was starting to drizzle. Accommodation was found in a humidity; the few Spaniards that we dortoir attached to one of the three saw used capes rather than cagoules. We'd heard all S01tS oftales about the inns (not bad for an almost deserted inaccuracy of the Spanish maps, village only reachable on foot!). particularly where paths and buildings Although it was now quite wet, it was were concerned, but we had no still warm, so we sat outside the bar, problems, managing to follow the eating the standard platter provided by vague path and locate every building the inn to everybody requiring food, namely ham, egg and chips. We really along the initial part ofthe route in the pushed the boat out, (well, we were thick, swirling mist. on holiday) and also had cheese, wine From near Sotres we turned south (lots), coffees (several), and then along the jeep track, which proved to breakfast the following morning, but be a most interesting walk, passing despite this excess, got change out of through the deserted hamlet at Vegas £30 for the two of us , including the del Toro, then across a large flat accommodation. If only Swiss meadow at Campomayor, where we mountain huts were as cheap as this!1 had excellent views of a pail' of Whilst sat in the bar, we exchanged Egyptian vultures, many other birds of tales with fellow travellers from prey, large numbers of horses, a several other parts of Europe, and running track denoted by a line by were also joined by the local mules numbered stones, and most amazingly which came to see what was going on. of all, two pail's of goalposts, high in the mountains and literally in the After a comfortable night, we woke to middle ofnowhere ! find that the cloud was even lower, the drizzle harder and there was A quick descent down the jeep track absolutely no wind. So no chance of a brought us into Espinama, just in time quick improvement to the weather. to buy some much needed drinks and After spinning out breakfast as long as ice creams, before the last bus arrived possible, we decided not to try and to transport us, a day early, to the find our way to the Urriellu Hut, camp near Potes, much to the surprise under the Naranjo de Bulnes, because of those in camp basking in glorious of potentially very serious navigation sunshine. Of course, the next day was problems through inhospitable terrain another glorious hot, clear day, such is in minimum visibility. Even if we did the way in the mountains! reach the hut, there was no guarantee that we would be able to get back to

The YRC Bulletin 77 Summer 1996 A fleeting visit to Naranjo de my back on the Naranjo, with only Bulnes by John Devenport one or two wispy clouds high in the otherwise clear sky. Then in an instant After the disappointment ofnot seeing all my worst fears about navigation the Naranjo de Bulnes at close problems were realised. From qua~ters on my multi-day trip, I nowhere, I was suddenly engulfed in decided to try to make a quick visit thick cloud just above the hut, and from El Cable to the Urriellu Hut . ' thought I was going to have real nestling in a privileged position problems getting back in the mist. beneath one ofit's great walls. Setting Fortunately the mist cleared as quickly out in clear and slightly cooler as it arrived, and the return to El weather, I was accompanied almost as Cable passed without further incident, far as the Veronica Hut by Michael but with added interest of a long and David, but they had other scramble up to the :final col at the side objectives for the day, so from then on ofthe fraying cables. it was a solo trip. The trip was a fitting end to my visit From the Horcados Rojos col, it was a to the Picos, an area of quite unique traverse eastwards then a steep mountain landscape, but it also served descent down the broken, slabby as a sharp reminder of the potential slopes following the line of fixed difficulties the unwary traveller could cables, complete with highly frayed :find themselves in such inhospitable WIre strands, which proved to be more terrain. of a hindrance than a help. The long descent took me into the first of two huge hoyos (hollows), linked by a vague, intermittent path, which confirmed my concern about potential navigation problems in such awkward terrain should the visibility be less than perfect, and probably justified our c~ange of plans during our multi-day tnp. A group of about six rebeco caught my attention crossing the barren slopes ofa hoyo; it certainly must be a hard life eking out an existence in such inhospitable terrain. After the second hoyo, a col is gained by a steep step, from where the massive face of the Naranjo de Bulnes suddenly comes into view. The short walk down to the ?niellu .hut took ages, with many mterruptions for photographs of this imposing mountain. The large modem, hut was thronged with visitors admiring the spectacular setting. Time was getting on, and it was quite a way back to El Cable, so I turned The Cares gorge

'The YRC Bulletin 78 Summer 1996 Archaeology in the Picos like a cow. The largest horse varies in colour from sienna to purple and black by Michael Smith others are simple outline drawings. In The objects of the Club include some engraved lines emphasise the Archaeology and this was not colour. neglected despite the majority of this report concentrating on the It was interesting to compare these mountaineering and natural history painting with the rock outcrop aspects of our visit to the Picos de engravings seen at Alta in Norway on Europa. the 1992 meet. Those were dated at about 6000 years old and were carvings, some of which were painted in an red ochre colour. q:::

1." ~ ~ r- bb'" g A visit was made to the caves at ." c, Ribadesella on the coast. In the Cueva de Tito Bustillo the control of public ~ access to four hundred visitors a day The Tito Bustillo cave paintings were protects the prehistoric cave painting. created over a period between 15 and This was far higher number than most 20 thousand years ago, other controlled caves: Altamira allowed only 30 and visits had to be The main cavern contains plenty of booked years in advance. Several decorative rock features throughout doors along the caves blasted modem its length. Colours range from the entrance tunnel maintained a steady pristine whites through ivory to greens temperature of BOC and humidity of and reds. The calcite features are 98%. A path of 540m through the varied and impressive as the cavern is original cavern leads to a junction and wide and tall. The streamway is now a prehistoric living area. Here, low on some twenty metres below and visible an overhanging wall, is painting of a in places. horse which despite damage by flooding remains clearly visible. The A short drive solid shape is a dark red and, for me at away, high on a least, surprisingly large at perhaps two hill side are a metres long. couple of ...::'>', .':..... prehistoric rock carvings. The '·;~:,:}t·· information we ~ ..... obtained about them was sketchy. They are about a metre tall, cut into a slight overhang A little further on is an area containing above a small ledge on a ten metre tall several paintings. Stag, hind, several grey limestone outcrop (Pefia Tu) on a horse, reindeer and possibly something ridge. Now protected by an iron cage

The YRC Bulletin 79 Summer 1996 they previously suffered the addition Memories of the Picos by AB of many adjacent modem carvings, Friendly people at the camp site who mostly crosses. The carvings are went out oftheir way to be helpful. Bronze age or Neolithic and may be A young dog, apparently dying of funerary or sacrificial. thirst, being refreshed in best John (l . r,· -, I 1/ \) , Wayne style, from a bush hat full of 11 ,"1 i 11-" 11 .: water. .i; I~ : , ,:.\ ., A middle aged couple who were so J.(1 ,. .: / impressed by the navigational skills of ,i; '\;} / : 1 ," YRC members that they insisted on \/1 buying the drinks at the cable car station. Much further to the West, inland from An ex-president who insisted that Navia on the crest of a ridge was the pear peelings and core soaked in Castro de Coafia, probably the best sardine oil was part ofthe normal diet. preserved of the prehistoric Asturian The entrepreneurial skills of a young 'towns'. Occupied in the late Iron guest on the meet who could l'Ull a Age and early Roman period it is a second hand car business during the well fortified habitation with very solid course ofa restaurant meal. stone walls, circular, oval and Two members who provided a large rectangular buildings and large stone number oflocals with a new spectator troughs. Served by a long aqueduct sport: - leg breakage repair watching. the village was supported by mining, A local member of the Guardia transport and working ofgold. Uncivil who seemed to think that three score years and ten equates to old age. Under Roman occupation the Members wives who provided hot Asturians provided troops for many soup to a group who arrived back at parts ofthe empire including Hadrians the camp a little late, following a slight Wall. They must surely have noticed a geographical error. (Incidentally, this marked change in the climate there was the same group who so impressed compared to their homeland. the middle aged couple noted above!) Two young members who reached TIle proximity of the Picos to the the campsite on bicycles. What can we rugged coast, towns and unspoilt do to win this battle of one upmanship villages of Cantabria and Asturias on our next meet? means that there can be much more to The worried looks of passengers on a visit there than walking, climbing the ferry who overheard two naval and caving. The Celts settling in the architectural members discussing the North, the Romans taking two gross instability ofthe ship. hundred years to dominate the area Female persons on the meet who (t~~ugh leaving the Picos well alone), appeared quite normal and,, in fact Visigoths taking over Galacia, were excellent company. (1 realise Christianity with its monasteries and that this statement may cost me my then Industrial Revolution have all epaulettes and sword.) influenced the area. Four gourmet members who couldn't tell the difference between ham and tinned tripe.

'lbe YRC Bulletin 80 Summer 1996 Puerto Pollensa, Mallorca 22 / 29 April, 1995

This account covers all the main routes undertaken during the meet nd should give a good impression ofhow the week developed. However the party had no intention of keeping together the whole time and as a consequence perhaps some of the We were all indebted to the member activities have been missed out. and gue~ who had a knowledge of Spanish. Organisation was the minimum that would unite the group into joint During the first few days telescopic activity, if that was what they ski poles were in evidence as walking required. All but one couple were in aids but later on it seemed they were the same apartment block and so it used less often. was easy to go next door and find out what was happening or to have multi­ None of the party were in their first patty conversations from the flush of youth, some were into their balconies. Each evening at at seven a second (or perhaps even third) joint informal meeting was held in the blooming, but what a flourish! reception lounge to sort out transport for the following day, which then led Evening meals were easy to find from into groups forming for visits to 800 pesetas (approximately £4), for restaurants. Some cooked for the menu ofthe day including wine, to themselves in their apartments instead. what ever level of extravagance one In the morning at a time decided the wished to pay. previous evening, patties would meet­ up in the reception lounge before starting for the day's venues. Sunday. Shopping for supplies was easy with In the afternoon all the patty started small self-service stores nearby open an easy walk along the Boquer Valley. when we returned from walks and Some people diverted on to short refrigerators in the apartments. cuts, and others extended it to Cala San Vincente but all marvelled at the Car hire could be organised locally on serrated edge of Serra del Cavall a daily basis if required. Hire cars Bernat on the north-western side of generated one or two misfortunes: one the valley. Ornithologists with their member parked in the wrong place telescopes and cameras set up on overnight and had his vehicle tripods, were all along the route. The impounded resulting in a hefty penalty, YRC's main sightings were of a Blue another found his car one morning Rock Thrush at Calla Boquer and a with a smashed window. Hoopoe just outside the town.

'Ibe YRC Bulletin 81 Summer 1996 In the valley one or two rock climbers path in a series of zigzags to the Coll were on the crags and the sight of Baix. On the descent it was possible them incited some members to to look down several hundred feet into clamber up house sized boulders the brilliant blue waters ofthe bay and which lay on the edge ofthe track. see, under the water, the white bubbles created by the waves on the Back at base the first member into our beach being dragged swiftly out to sea private swimming pool reported that it by the strong undertow, was warmer than Loch Laggan. Three others followed his example and found From the shelter at CoIl Baix, all of it refreshing. Honour satisfied, the the party but one made their way showers were found to be nice and down to the beach under most hot. unstable looking cliffs,

Monday, The lone lady made her way back Gerry Lee had intended to lead a walk along the return route the others were to the Puig Roig, but a change had to to follow on their way back to be made because ofrestricted access, Alcudia. Neither the lone lady nor the others had foreseen a fork in the road The revised walk started at the Ermita and true to that well known law, one de la Victoria, Six people went by car party took one road and the followers to the start, the remainder chose to the other. This led to the lady being travel 20 minutes by bus to Alcudia rescued by a group of Germans met and walk about 5 kilometres via the earlier, on the Atalaya, Contact was Mal Pas coast road. Wild gladioli again made when the lady's husband were prominent in the fields, as were was spotted from the Germans' bus, the carob trees, The Ermita had a cool restaurant with terrace and a sea The rest of us had a pleasant walk view. Whilst four ofthe driving group back to Alcudia to wait for the bus to set off for the Atalaya de Alcudia, the Puerto Pollensa, admiring the walkers from Alcudia made a break on honeysuckle, broom and poppies the terrace for beer, or orange drink, flowering by the roadside. which was made from fresh oranges. The main group intended to ascend The car party drove to Formentor and the Pefia Roja but as has happened found swimming conditions warmer before in the YRC, the conversation than in the pool. was so interesting that no one saw the route. Bill Todd and Juliet White drove to Mirador de Ses Barques encountering When the main group finally decided hundreds ofcyclists on the way. They that they had lost the track, they met had trouble locking the car and after the four returning from the Atalaya attempting improvements, found that and it was decided that the main party now they could not shut the door. By would visit the Atalaya also, and then the time phone contact with the hire carry on to the Playa Baix. After the car firm had been made, from Soller, Atalaya and the views there was a Bill and Juiliet were short of time to lunch stop on a limestone outcrop complete the objective of Sa Costere. looking over the sea. A steep hillside It was an interesting walk with lots of was then descended on a well graded flora, fauna and rock formations. On

'l1Ie YRC Bulletin 82 Stunmer 1996 15 km 10 miles return, calling at Balitz de Baix farm The summit of Teix (1064 metres) for orange juice led to a lift back to was reached after a plateau followed the car in the farmer's Land Rover. by a short steep scramble on the limestone. The conditions were cold, Tuesday. a strong damp wind was blowing with The objective of a majority of the mist in the distance. Most people group was the ascent of Teix followed were wearing jackets. During our by the Archduke's Walk, with short eating, photography and banter, it was cuts if required. Car transport was noticed that yet another party of shared to Valldemossa and after Germans all had little cards and the coffee the group set off It was quite leader was stamping them on the chilly in the cold wind and there was summit with the official rubber stamp. concern whether or not clothing was Not wishing the YRC to be outdone I adequate. People were seen wearing asked in my best German, and gloves later. As we left Valldemossa obtained, the summit stamp in the interesting terrace formations were front of my copy of 'Walking in seen cut into the hillsides for Mallorca'! agriculture, and there was a good view above the town roofs, of the The line ofascent was retraced a short monastery . distance to start on the Archduke's Walk. The weather brightened and At the shelter where we stopped for the sun came out giving us glorious lunch there was a large party of vertiginous views over the sea some Germans with whom we indulged in 400 metres below for the rest of the mutual language practise. walk. It was generally a good path,

The YRC Bulletin 83 Summer 1996 on the edge of high cliffs with Wednesday. appalling drops in places. Not the The ascent of Massanella (1367 place to turn ones ankle! The paths metres) from Coll de Batella was the were constructed under the direction aim for Wednesday. Gerry Lee to was of Archduke Ludwig Salvator of to lead the party. The walk started Hapsburgo-Lorenca last century. about 150 metres along the road, from Artifacts such as stone seats or mined where we parked the cars opposite buildings made focal points, a thrush­ Col de Sabtaia restaurant and led hunters bread oven was seen, as was through woodland gaining height evidence of past charcoal burning. It quickly. The path became indistinct at was a walk which allowed one to one point as it was possible to climb appreciate the meaning of anywhere between the trees on stony Mediterranean blue and aquamarine ground. The track was quickly found green. Return to Valldemossa was via again and at a height of about 800 a clearing in the woods with a central metres a marker stone directed us on well with numerous tracks radiating, rough paths to the top. A bit ofrough care had to be taken to follow the going on limestone with a final steep C011'ect one. ascent over bare rock took us to the top. On the way up, there were Some of the party shortened the walk magnificent views over most of the and fitted in Chopin's quarters in the island to the south. In the near monastery at Valldemossa, where he distance superb mountain formations composed the Raindrop Prelude. were seen like plugs of rock surrounded by 300 metre high vertical It was a splendid day out with cliffswith vegetation on the tops. memories of views across the island, of Manessella and Puig Roig, of To one side of and just below the thousand year old olive trees, holly summit was a deep pothole with oaks and moss covered pine trees. typically fluted sides. At times it has Rosemary was growing everywhere been used to store snow. with bluer blooms than at home; The weather was generally brighter miniature cyclamen, stonecrop and and warmer than the previous day. other alpines were around, as was Yorkshire humour. 'Shrouds have no Lunch was eaten just down from the pockets' was one gem heard. One summit sheltered from the wind where member was so moved by it all as to there was a good view and the retum recite what he could remember of was by a different route to the 800 'The Ballad ofIdwal Slabs'! metre point. On the way down an interesting well Thanks to Alan Brown and Clifford Cobb should be recorded, for leading was investigated bringing out all the us to such a fine day out. YRC's potholing instincts. It was signed Font de S'Avenc and a twisting A second party under the guidance of flight of steps led down into the rock John Barton including some of the for about ten metres to a cavern with three water basins constructed to ladies went to Valldemossa to view catch the trickle. A high aven rose the splendours ofthe ancient town. behind the water supply. Flash photography was brought into use.

Tuc YRC Bulletin 84 Summer 1996 JelfHooper on the Cavall Bemat (photo Bill Todd)

High on the mountain, setterwort of lamb roasted whole. Prior to the (stinking hellibore) was identified, lamb the party was served with five other saxifrage and cyclamen were successive starters, meat balls in seen, and blackbeny and ivy at the sauce; chopped liver and potato frit spnng. Mallorquin; mixed vegetables cooked in fennel with other herbs; mussels, Wednesday evening was the time set and finally battered courgettes. With for a meal with a difference. great ceremony the legs of lamb were brought to the end of the table, the A party of eleven made their way to knife sharpened and Martin calved the Martin's Bar. The speciality was leg lamb and sewed the party. Dishes of

l11c YRC Bulletin 85 Summer 1996 fresh fiuit were placed on the table for end, at the foot ofthe most prominent desert. tower. The length of the ridge we tackled is approximately one Coffee followed and when we thought kilometre. that it was over a delicious ice cold liqueur made from green apples was On reaching the coli, without pause presented, complements ofMartin. Alan Brown, closely followed by Clifford and the others shot up the Thursday. tower on the edge ofthe ridge with a A bright sunny day. There was a vertical drop of 352 metres into the divergence ofideas. One group drove Cala San Vicente. The limestone was to the Albufera for birdwatching and exceedingly rough with a spiky their list is given at the end of this surface, rougher than gabro, except at report, One couple visited Soller. the two most exposed places where it Another pair drove to Valldemossa to was smooth with few holds; so I was visit Chopin's quarters which they had told. I took a ledge route on the missed on a previous visit, whilst one Boquer Valley side ofthe tower which lady enjoyed the local scene and was led diagonallyupwards. fascinated by the way palm tree trunks were trimmed. I had always believed The next section ofthe ridge is so thin that the trees grew naturally with a that a window has been formed smooth round trunk exhibiting the through the rock, over the top of pattern of triangles where the leaves which the party walked. The guide had grown, but on our return from the book recommended doing that and Cavall Bernat ridge we too had seen then climbing down at the end and the trimming and shaping operation. reversing direction at a lower level to reach the point where one could see Seven of us decided to traverse the the view ofCala San Vincente through Serra del Cavall Bernat between the the window. After watching the first sea and the Boquer valley and for me member climbing down with a good it was one of the highlights of the view ofthe sea between his legs, I and week which I would have been loath one other returned and found another to miss. Because I have not route on the face, which enabled us to experienced rock ridges for many arrive below the window before the years I found the exposure awesome, main party. An estimate of the my companions had no such qualms window size is eight metres wide by and to see how the older members five metres high. The view from there moved on that ridge was a good over the bay is stupendous and one by recommendation for a life in the YRC one people climbed to the and encouragement for the others. photography position. Various routes were next used to regain the ridge The group was: Alan and Angie which involved either awkward short Linford, Clifford Cobb, Alan Brown, climbs down or awkward little Bill Todd, Arthur Craven and me. traverses but the group reformed and After a short walk from Puerto had a magnificent view of the tower Pollensa along the Boquer Valley the from the other side. On a branch of a route went up the side of the ridge scrubby tree high on the cliff face over broken ground to the coll in the above us, an Osprey was perched, ridge about half way to the seaward

The YRC Bulletin 86 Summer 1996 although its chicks could be heard For the remainder of our stay the flag calling for food, we did not see it fly. could be seen from our apartment balcony. It was the warmest day and the hot sun on the rock was nicely bearable. Fliday. After scrambling further on the ridge a Cars were again organised; a minor halt was called for lunch on a flat exercise in logistics as the walkers yellow horizontal slab. It was a were to start at Sa Calobra on the perfect viewing platform over the bay coast, and :finish at Esdorca, inland. towards Alcudia. As we ate, sea By road the two points were planes flew over head and landed connected by 13 kilometres of skimming over the blue water, leaving continuous hairpin bends, reminiscent a long white wake before mounting of Norway's Stalheim Gorge but not onto dry land at the dock. quite so steep and much longer. Thanks are due to lan Crowther for There was a second small window at leading this. the top of the ridge in rocks which overhung the sea and looked From the bay car park we went somewhat unstable. through a rock tunnel under the 300 metre high cliffs into the gorge of the At one point on the ridge we could Torrent de Pareis where it meets the look directly at our swimming pool open sea. There was no water running and pick out the individual balconies down the route ofthe Torrent and we ofour apartments. started on flat level sand walking inland. The gorge is narrow with Towards the final tower was a highly consistently high (300 metres), exposed part where I remember Angie unbreachable cliffs for the whole ofits walking as if on a tight rope. It was length with the width blocked by the same shape and slightly narrower boulder chokes and rock outcrops at than a ridge tile on a house roof for intervals. It made me think of about two metres. potholing but without a roof At one time I was reminded of the main On the final tower we sat and soaked cavern ofReyfad. The limestone here in the sunshine and the view whilst was a complete contrast to the planning the best route down to the unweathered spiked surface of the Puerto Pollensa - Calla San Vincente Serra del Cavall Bernat, in the gorge track. An improvised flag left by the surfaces were water worn and previous walkers was re-erected on smooth. the summit. I cannot remember all the individual The walk back was hot and dusty and scrambles and climbs. There was the the first group offour decided on cool one which required long legs to span beer by the pool side interspersed with the walls of the chimney with no real refreshing plunges. The final three holds. Another, where a large smooth found a bar selling beer by the pint and egg-shaped chock stone had to be after completing a round, arrived back surmounted with the holds always two with happy smiles on their faces. inches beyond my reach; the one where after a scramble one had to crawl upwards through a hole, after

The YRC Bulletin 87 Summer 1996 removing ones rucksack, I remember A bus was caught back to Puerto following Alan Brown in jumping Pollensa earlier than originally across a one metre gap fi..om the top intended with the idea ofhaving large of a smooth boulder two to three ice creams on the front at Hotel metres high to land on an inclined Mirador. A temporary split in the ho1d1ess slab slightly higher. Ian party was made when thirst got the produced belay slings and line at one better of some members and shandies point, and some of the patty were were ordered and the others went in assisted by strategically given, pulls or search ofthe ice creams. pushes. It was great fun and easilythe most strenuous day ofthe week. A very successful meet leaving happy memories and renewed friendships. The end came when a path was found, IH.H coming down on the left which we had to go up to the road. After the height gained in the gorge in the previous four hours, it was felt that we could not be far below the road. In fact it took just over one hour of continuous ascent on a well graded zigzagging Flowers, Shrubs and Trees: path to reach the road and a cool We are indebted to Betty Cobb for drink in the restaurant. compiling this list of a small selection of the very large range of flowers to Saturday. be found on the island. The Common The last day. We were not to be names are given beside the Latin ones. collected for transfer to the airport The book used for identification was until 5 p.m. and so most people took ''The Flowers ofBritain and Europe." the chance of walking through the by 01eg Po1unin. Ternelles valley to the Castell del Rei, a route which is only open on Acanthus mollis Acanthus (Bear's breech) Saturdays. The bus was taken to Allium ursinum Ransomes Pollensa and the walk started between Anchusa officinalis Alkenet gardens with their own water Asphodelusaestivus Asphodel Borage officinalis Borage reservoirs, gradually climbing to the Carpobrotus Carpobrutus (Red estate entrance with a guard on the acinaciform Hottentot) gate. Height was gained Centranthus ruber Red valercan imperceptibly, on a good dirt road Cistus monspeliensis Narrow leaved cistus which wound through the trees, until Citrus limon Lemon tree Citrus sinensis Orange tree the Castell del Rei was seen above us Convolvulus Bindweed and 491 metres above the sea. Access Erinacea anthyllis Hedgehog broom to the castle was not possible as it is Geranium sanguineum Cranesbill being restored. During our lunch Gladiolus segetum Field gladiolus break on the edge of the cliffs in the Hieracium pilosella Mouse-eared near distance two black vultures hawkweed Ipomoea hederacea Morning glory appeared. They were in view long Knautia arvensis Scabeous enough for those with glasses to have Papaver Rhoeas Corn Poppy a good look at them and close enough Reseda lutea Mignonette for those without to see them clearly.

TIle YRC Bulletin 88 Summer 1996 Ornithology: Cliff Large, with Cathie's assistance The Albufera sightings: produced the bird list. He writes: Black-wingedStilt Pochard "In June Parker's book, 'Walking in Cetti's Warbler Purple Gallinule Mallorca' she states that 'Even those Conunon Sandpiper Purple Heron with a minimum interest in birds are Coot Red-crested Pochard likely to find this interest stimulated by Curlew Reed Warbler the number and variety of birds to be Gadwall Ringed Plover Great Tit Sandpiper seen on nearly every walk.' This was Greenfinch Sardinian Warbler true on some of the lower walks but Harrier Serin on high hills hardly any birds were House Sparrow Shoveller seen. One of the suggested days out Kentish Plover Spoonbill was a visit to the Albufera, a large Little Egret Spotted Redshank wetland nature reserve with bird hides. Little Grebe Squacco heron It was an excuse for a lazier day after Mallard Marsh White-headed Duck a few days walking but only three of Moorhen YellowWagtail the party made the visit. It proved very interesting with many different birds present. Logistics: The most spectacular bird sighting The party flew from Manchester to was left to the last day at Castell del Palma and stayed in self catering Rei. Whilst having lunch a pair of apartments which were definitely black vultures were soaring around above the standard of the usual Club the cliff tops about a quarter of a mile Hut! away. The guide books used were: ''Walking in Mallorca" by June Parker, The birds listed have been split into ''Landscapes of Mallorca" by Valerie two groups; those seen on walks and Crespi-Green. those seen in The Albufera. Most were personal observations, Some in the second group were seen by others in the party. Some of the common Attendance: birds found at home have been Dennis and Joan Armstrong omitted from this list." John and Irene Barton AlanBrown Sightings on walks: Clifford and Betty Cobb Black Vulture Hoopoe Arthur Craven Black Wheatear House Martin Ian and Dorothy Crowther Blackcap Marmora's Warbler Mike and Marcia Godden Blue Rock Thrush Osprey JeffHooper Chiffchaff Rock Sparrow Ian and Una Laing Crag Martin Shag Cliff and Kathy Large Crossbill Stonechat Gerry and Margaret Lee Goldfinch Swallow Alan and Angie Linford Bill Todd and Juliet White

The YRC Bulletin 89 Summer 1996 Spring Bank Holiday Meet. Inchnadampf 27 May - 3 June 1995

I have not been a regular 'Whitsuntide' meet attender as there have always been other pressures. Inchnadampf has been visited by the club several times indeed I attended the 1982 meet briefly while caravanning with the family at Ullapool. I will always remember my first meet in the area, before joining the club, when a bus was hired in Inverness to tour the West Coast. I was determined to join the meet this year but was not anticipating drawing morning facilities purchased from the the short straw and being volunteered Hotel raised a few complaints. Back as meet reporter. in 1957, I don't recall even visiting the Hotel, as there seemed to be no time Back in 1957 I had never been between the mountains and a much in northern Scotland, and the area left needed sleep. a big impression on me. The mountains of course are unchanged The weather preceding the but their isolation has undergone meet had been good by all reports but change. It is now possible to class it worsened as the days passed. them as a long weekend break from Almost everyone arrived on the London, and a modern day trip to Saturday and Quinag and Canisp were compare with the one in 1957 would bagged by early anivals enjoying be to perhaps the Atlas mountains. cloud and blue sky with light showers. Another change has been from meet Sunday and Monday were similar with circulars to the Bulletin. So inevitably good views from the tops but not I put this job off and now, while without the scattered showers. actually missing a YRC meet, and Quinag and Canisp were again visited sitting out the hottest summer for but usually by driving as close as centuries, I am trying to remember possible, unlike the two early arrivals why a small amount of rain had such who had insisted on round trips from an effect on the meet. The meet camp. Three members, suspected as leader had arranged for us to camp Munroists, disappeared for these two within a stones throw of the back bar days to do Ben Hope and Klibreck. A of the Inchnadampf Hotel. Cooking Corbett or 2 fell to another member. with the midges and the rain proved On Monday night, the rain set in in unable to compete with the bar meals earnest and continued into Tuesday on offer in any cases, and there was morning. Since two moderate days really no place where one could had been scored, the mountains lost wander off with a shovel. The early their attraction to be replaced by the

The YRC Bulletin 90 Summer 1996 flesh pots of Ullapool and bird discussing the poor conditions with a watching on Hanna island. On couple from the north ofEngland they Tuesday evening again came the rain commented that come the following which lasted into Wednesday morning Monday, and even before lunchtime, and the start of the exodus. Two we would willingly swap the office members were drawn back to the real conditions for the slopes ofBen More world. I joined a party to partake of Assynt despite the rain. How true! Alan Linford's hospitality in his Back in camp by 4 p.m., alone, and caravan at Knockan just ten miles not even wet enough to change, I away. As the meet was not finally closed the meet and left to stay designated as an open one, Alan overnight with relatives in Arrochar. cannot be listed as a full attendee, but he still managed to give me two full As you can appreciate, my sheets of bird sightings which I have comparisons with 1956 were rather unfortunately misplaced. In the depressing. Perhaps the attendance afternoon, it was fine and a walk up to was affected by the other more exotic see the local caves passed a few hours. meets on this year's calendar. I can At this point there was really no only hope so, because Scotland has comparison between 1957 and 1995, continuous marvels to offer, and the and I made a pledge to do something most memorable days in the on the Thursday come hell or high mountains are not always those when water. But what actually happened the sun shines. I only hope this report was that the moming was again wet does not upset Maurice Wilson too and everyone to a man left me. With much. He had set his sights on hind sight it is easy to see that the rain Suilven, but was cheated by the was only at Inchnadampf It was weather. nearly lunch time and in cloud. I FW drove down to Lochinver and into the sun, and as near Glen Canisp Lodge as Attendance I could get. The walk into Suilven Cliff Cobb and back took me 7 hours, and I Maurice Wilson ticked off all the tops, unfortunately in a brief interlude when the mist was Frank Wilkinson down. The whole ridge was clear Alan Brown before and after I reached it. Back in my solitary camp, and back into the Arthur Craven poorer weather of Inchnadampf, I Denis Barker again set my sights on doing something on the Friday, and even Ken AIdred though the morning was misty I set off David. Smith for Conival and Assynt. The whole trip was in mist and some light rain, Roy Pomfret and at one time I thought that I had the mountain to myself However, I Tony Smythe was just slightly ahead of the crowd Harvey Lomas and on retracing my steps met several parties who, unbeknownst to me, had Eddie Edwards had me in their sights. While

The YRC Bulletin 91 Summer 1996 The meet organiser delegated the meet Crianlarich Meet report to the other members, and a 30th Sept. 1995 spin ofa coin decided that the member from Middlesborough would provide the coal, and the lad would write the Scottish meets normally attract a good meet report, attendance, but this one suffered from competition f ..omNepal. It was indeed On Saturday, Derek and Cliff set off surprising to put one's head round the for Cruachan, and climbed from the door of the Ochills M. C. hut and see power station up to a top, and thence the only other two members sitting in to the summit. The forecast wind and front ofa roaring fire. heavy showers arrived about midday, coming from the South West, and the ~e OMC are rebuilding their cottage, completion of the horseshoe was left With a rearwards extension which to another day. doubles the size and adds badly needed washing facilities. With the The lad drove to Craig Meagaidh, and work still incomplete, we made do climbed all 8 tops and 3 Munros in a with a solitary tap, and slept in the clockwise circuit with plenty of carpetted loft. excursions to outlying summits. Snow was coveting the high plateau of Meagaidh, and cloud made finding the cairn an interesting exercise. Unlike on Cruachan, the bad weather took much longer to reach the East, and a good day was snatched in spite of a depressing forecast.

On Sunday gales and torrential rain made any further excursions a pointless exercise in masochism, so we all went home.

It is interesting to reflect that the journey from Yorkshire has become so much quicker in recent years. One can leave the Leeds area at 4.00 pm, and be in Crianlarich before 10.00 pm, having eaten well on the way. We thanked Cliff for again organising the meet, and we look forward to the next one.

Attendance:­ Cliff Large Derek A. Smithson lain Gilmore

The YRC Bulletin 92 Summer 1996 Crinkles were all visited, though one Low Hall Garth party inadvertently visited Upper Eskdale via Long Top. They took Mid-Week Meet care however, not to miss the quite 10 - 12th October 1995 excellent repast and slide show in the evenmg. The track to Low Hall Garth appears to get narrower and the potholes Thursday dawned rather wet and deeper as the years go by. remained so for the day. After Nevertheless, nine members were able another fine breakfast members were to take advantage of a Lakes mid­ in no hurry to venture out, through week Meet, and found the cottage in Tilberthwaite and its environs were excellent condition, though some visited. Around mid-day most surprise was expressed at the members reluctantly drifted away into availability of a telephone and the the mist ofthe aftemoon. laying of tarmac outside the cottage. Double yellow lines have not yet All concluded what a fine innovation materialised. this mid-week Meet had been, and hoped for a repeat performance. Taking advantage of the fine weather on Tuesday, several members took Our thanks are due to Alan whose short walks, including one over enthusiasm extended far beyond the Boardale Hause and Beda Fell, excellent cuisine he provided to the returning in fine autumn sunshine general bonhomie ofthe Meet. along the shore of Ullswater. T. E. E. Members sat down to a find meal in the evening, followed by a visit to the Attendance: Three Shires (Inn, not the Stone). Eddie Edwards After a fairly leisurely but gargantuan Mike Godden English breakfast, parties dispersed to GeoffHooper the well-known haunts, though the Ian Laing weather remained overcast and breezy Gerry Lee all day. Alan Linford Bill Lofthouse Pike O'Blisco and the Carrs, the Chris Renton Wetherlam/Carrs Round and the Harry Robinson

The YRC Bulletin 93 Summer 1996 Swaledale Meet 27th - 29th October 1995

The shortage of water in North Yorkshire could be well understood by the 26 members who walked the dry fells that autumn week-end. The weather was glorious, both on the Smelt Mill, above Surrender Bridge, HardLevel Gill Saturday and Sunday. Below is recorded the routes followed by those Marrick Abbey: via Framlington Edge present. and Southwaite (David Stembridge, Bill Lofthouse). Congratulations to Alan Brown for encouraging so many ofus to be at the Great Shunner Fell: Lovely Seat Punch Bowl Inn, Low Row, since it retunting via Muker (Raymond could have been a depleted attendance Ince, Richard Gowing, Bill Todd, considering the large party of men Alan Brown, Arthur Craven). scaling the Himalayan heights. Other than the two or three guests, everyone Nine Standards Rigg: from County present had more than a few grey Boundary Road (Maurice Wilson, hairs! CliffCobb).

The Inn was an excellent base. Peter Pub Crawl: Low Row to Langthwaite Roe, the landlord, made us welcome (Red Lion opened especially early ­ and supplied all our needs. It was excellent beer), Framlington Edge good that we could celebrate Harry to Hurst (pub closed for 17 years), Stembridge's 93rd birthday at the via road to Reeth (Black Lion ­ Saturday evening dinner. Afterwards, indifferent beer), return to Punch David Laughton's slides of the Bowl Inn, Low Row - excellent Kamchatka Penninsula and his (Derek Clayton, Trevor Temple commentary were much appreciated. [guest], Denis Barker).

Here are the routes followed by those Tarn Hill: to Nine Standard Rigg and present: back (Conrad Jorgensen, Ken AIdred, John Schofield). Saturday Gunnerside Gill: Melbecks Moor Three Swaledale Peaklets: Reeth­ (David Laughton, John Wright). Framlington Edge via Langthwaite (no comfort stop allowed) over Melbecks Moor: Low Row via Calver. Then crossed the Swale Langthwaite up MillBeck past Old River at Low Whita bridge up Gang Mine to Gunnerside Gill. GfubonHill,retuntingtoRecthby East edge ofSwale valley via various routes (Dennis Armstrong, Swinners Gill, Gunnerside to Low Frank Wilkinson, Derek Smithson, Row (Ian Laing, Geny Lee). Derek Collins, Mike Hartland [potential member], Jim Rusher).

The YRC Bulletin 94 Summer 1996 Sunday (only recorded routes) North Wales Meet Great Pinseat: via Surrender Bridge, 26-28 January 1996 Healaugh Edge, retum via Friarfold Rake, Lead mines, Healaugh Held at the (David Stembridge, Arthur Craven, Chester Mountaineering Club Hut Richard Gowing, Derek Smithson, Llanberis Bill Todd, Alan Brown). The Chester Mountaineering Club Hut Great Shunner Fell: and retum to is a small, pleasant building situated Muker (Dennis Annstrong, Jim on the lower slopes of Snowdon, near Rusher). the Mountain Railway. Readily accessible from Llanberis, it is a P.S. Congratulations to John and Pat relatively easy find for those armed Schofield on becoming grandparents. with a post war map. However, those Samuel John was bom during the consulting Medieval Grimoire in Meet, hence John's early departure, search of its location will have less success.

PRESENT: Several Club members arrived early on Ken Aldred the Friday ofthe meet looking for the Dennis Annstrong solitude of the weekday hills. One Denis Barker member scrambled in the Aber Falls AlanBrown area, finishing atop the ancient cairn of Derek Clayton Drosgl. Another climbed a deserted CliffCobb Tryfan by its snow-clad north ridge. Derek Collins Arthur Craven A small amount of snow fell overnight Richard Gowing and after a hearty breakfast, combined Mike Hartland (PM) with the usual procrastination and Raymond Ince refusal to accept responsibility for the Conrad Jorgensen day's outcome, a large presidential lan Laing party set forth for Snowdon, by way David Laughton of the Llanberis path. On joining the GerryLee railway track at Clogwyn Station they Bill Lofthouse met with a fierce wind, blowing JimRusher powder snow into every crevice and John Schofield slowing progress considerably. In Derek Smithson contrast, the summit was found to be David Stembridge perfectly calm. This strange Harry Stembridge phenomenon occurred on all the Trevor Temple (G) relatively high peaks ascended during Bill Todd the meet. Frank Wilkinson Maurice Wilson Moel Cynghorion was then climbed John Wlight after descending via the Snowdon Ranger path. Here two options presented themselves; was there

The YRC Bulletin 95 Summer 1996 enough daylight ahead to complete the visited, the Moelwyn and Eifl groups ridge to Moel Eilio, or should they being favourites. On the Snowdon make good their escape down the range, Y Lliwedd was ascended from valley? One member had grave Pen-y-Pass and Cwm Dwythwch was misgivings about the former choice explored by both Man and Dog. and lost no time in making his feelings known to the rest of the party. The All in all, an excellent meet. Thanks to President was quick to nip these Tim Josephy for the fine food and a mutinous mutterings in the bud. very good choice ofhut. 1J00ward!1J he roared, with a MPP flamboyant swish ofhis ski-pole. Thus inspired, the erstwhile mutineer strode Attendance: off at such a blistering pace that he The President - Derek Bush was not again seen until descending the final peak of the range. The party Dennis Armstrong arrived back at the hut with daylight Denis Barker to spare and in good time for dinner, which is more than can be said for the Derek Collins other hill party that day . Ian Crowther Robert Crowther These miscreants, having spent a successful day exploring the Eifl Eddie Edwards group of hills on the Lleyn Peninsula, Mike Godden decided to forsake dinner and head for the fleshpots, no doubt in an attempt Richard Gowing to re-enact those hedonistic, drug­ TimJosephy crazed Llanberis parties ofyore. Alas, the place didn't live up to its MarkPryor reputation, they had to settle for a JimRusher plate of chips at Pete's Eats and a David Smith dressing down from their hungry comrades back at the hut. Derek Smithson George Spenceley After a sumptuous dinner, the peace­ loving contingent retired to the sitting Peter Swindells room, content with idle fireside Barrie Wood chatter. The warlike faction remained in the dining area and were soon Martin Woods engaged in a vigorous and increasingly loud debate. At one point, a senior member burst into the sitting room and declared IJI've had enough! IJ Whether he was referring to the argument or the wine is still unclear.

Sunday saw more unpredictable weather, but this did nothing to dampen the spirit. Most areas were

The YRC Bulletin 96 Summer 1996 BLENCATHRA MEET Sunday's weather remained Christmas 1995 unchanged. There must have been A limited amount of snow was to be slightly more breeze because Tony's seen on the tops on Friday, but this and Peter's paragliding near Binsey cleared over the week-end. A few was more rewarding than Peter said members who had arrived early on his had been on Latrigg on Saturday. Friday enjoyed walking on B1encathra Sunday's outings varied, Bill Todd led and Eddie started with Da1ehead, a visit to the West Mercian Hutton Hindsworth and Robinson. Roof and Cliff Cobb to the wilder The B1encathra Centre is an ideal shores ofBorrowdale, B1encathra was place to hold a Meet. The facilities are again assaulted, this time by Sharp very good, parking is no problem, and Edge, Sca1estarn, and a party tackled access to the hills is as good as it Halls Fell Ridge: this was later could be in most places. The weather deemed by Tim to be not was fairly kind to us. It was mild and recommended. Descending from pleasant for walking with a light Knowe Craggs we came below cloud breeze for the paragliders. level and I thought it worthwhile to The landscape appeared in a silver veil try and make a panoramic series of ofhaze and layers of mist hung about photographs of Clough Head, St the floors ofthe valleys. From time to JoOOs in the Vale, High Rigg and the time sunlight penetrated the New1ands Fells. I don't expect they inconsistencies in the cloud cover and could possibly reflect the true quality gave brilliant vistas of grey, silver and of that light, but they will serve to white light, rather like a Chinese remind me of a very pleasant, well watercolour. The tops of the hills attended meet. D.T.R relentlessly made their plumes of cloud so that the familiar perspectives Present: Derek Bush (President) could only be seen at lower levels. Ken Aldred Harvey Lomas However, all this did not prevent Denis Barker Frank Milner (PM) parties of stalwarts setting off, some Alan Brown Stewart Muir (G) Ged Campion Roy Pomfret for Honister, then over Green Gable, Albert Chapman TomPrice (G) Great Gable in quest of Pillar - and Derek Clayton Mark Pryor back by Sty Head Tarn. More for Cliff Cobb Alister Renton B1encathra, its valleys and ridges were Derek Collins Harry Robinson well attended to as also was Skiddow. Arthur Craven Arthur Salmon Various parties visited Mock Pikes, lan Crowther John Schofie1d Little Ca1vert, G1encoinda1e, CalfCrag Robert Crowther David Smith and Can Gilmour west to Elmerda1e. Eddie Edwards Michae1 Smith After the day's exertions, dinner was a lain Gilmour Derek Smithson splendid affair and credit is due to Ra1phHaigh Tony Smythe David, Alan and their assistants. A David Hall George Spence1ey Mike Hart1and (PM) Peter St Price pleasant flow of wine, a good dinner David Hick Peter Swindells and very good company led to the Tim Josephy Trevor Temple (G) slide show we were all eager to see. David Laughton Mike Thompson Thanks to Ged we had a first view of Gerry Lee Bill Todd the slides of our Hima1ayan expedition Tony Lee (G) Frank Wilkinson to Dorje Lakpa. It was an adventure Alan Linford Roy Wilson that for the evening we could share. Martin Wilson (G)

The YRC Bulletin 97 Summer 1996 Lowstern Meet all their energy the previous day were surely wishing they hadn't. Again, March 15th-17th those venturing onto higher ground This meet was well attended. In fact called in on various potholes including the expected numbers were so great Nick Pot and Gaping Gill Gust to that an emergency plan had to be check it was still there). Grey Wife approved allowing the overnight Hole, recently re-opened by the YRC, construction of a new car park at was very much snow plugged and the Lowstern involving massive fine work forming the entrance could earthworkings. not be inspected. A group of 3 Peak runners descending Cote Gill were re­ On arrival at the hut, the tea folk were routed to Horton with wishes of 'Best to be found gathered around the cosy Luck' in finding Pen-y-ghent. flickering gas fire making plans for the Saturday. Whilst the others sampled The regular callers at the hut made ales in The New Inn. their way once more to their winter dig with bang and Bosch - a project Many elders had flown the nest by the on-going for perhaps three years now. time .1' d got up on the following morning setting a fine example for the It seems that a good time was had by younger members ofthe club. Indeed, all, although some thought was given Graham Salmon, our chef for the to ideas for new walking routes. One weekend, didn't know what hit him suggestion was a tour of Cairns as when orders for breakfast streamed in marked on the old 2112" maps. at 7.30 in the morning. We could only B.B. conclude that for some, what used to be achieved in daylight hours now Attendance: took considerably longer. This theory was classically demonstrated when the Derek Bush, President President and Arthur Salmon trundled Bruce Bensley in during supper having scaled Alan Brown Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent; CliffCobb leaving the rest of the party faltering lan Crowther at The Crown in Horton. Mike Godden Mike Hartland Scouts were also sent out to recce the Richard Josephy Ingleborough plateau, topping out TimJosephy over Park then Simon Fell and Alan Linford reporting back on two newly fenced Harvey Lomas digs at Clapham Bottoms, Alister Renton Others settled for the more sheltered Hany Robinson option during the inclement weather Arthur Salmon sticking to the high walled lanes above Graham Salmon Austwick. Someone deemed it Derek Smithson necessary to dig out that loud pink flat Bill Todd cap in which to walk the dog, Nick Welch (G) brightening things up considerably. Frank Wilkinson The Sunday turned out to be a blighter day, and those who had spent

'The YRC Bulletin 98 Summer 1996 Glen Etive 15 - 17 February 1996 The journey gets easier every year. Motorways, dual carriageways and much improved roads hurry the hill-hungry climber to Scotland. Glen First to fall foul of the rain were two Etive is more accessible every year. Is campers who woke on Friday morning this why the Spring Bank meet has to find themselves pitched in a stream. lost its attraction? It hadn't been there the night before. Inhir:fhaolin is in the throes of The weather led to any number of renovation and the cooking facilities failed attempts on the mountains. A were not as good as in previous years. large party attempted Benn The old kitchen areas has been Fhionnlaidh but turned back before the knocked into the dining-living area. summit. Two other climbers had The small shed to one end of the hut hopes that the gulley on Ben Lui has had its roof raised and a would aid their ascent but they were connecting door installed. The forced back by a stream which had speculation was that this would be become a torrent. The two damp converted into a new kitchen. The campers turned back before the interior walls are now clad in pine and summit of Ben Starav. Wind speeds when finished will be quite smart. A on the ridge suggested that had they large solid fuel fire has been put in the gone any further they would have living area. Stoked up with peat flown like kites. A distant Corbett briquettes it made the room very was reconnoitred by a party including warm and welcoming. one of the club's Munroists, now Such comforts were needed. Weather nearing completion of the 2,500 conditions at home earlier in the year footers. may have led us to hope that Scotland The only success of the day was an would provide us with good climbing ascent of Sgor na H'ulaidh by another but this proved not to be the case. For aspiring Munroist who inched towards most of the weekend it was wet and the summit holding onto fence posts. very windy. There was snow, above He and his companion were beaten 2,000 feet, but it was being driven at from their goal more than once until tremendous speeds. People they found a convenient snow gulley experienced driven 'snow hurting their which left them close to the summit faces, in spite of the protection of cann. kagouls. At these heights the main danger was of being blown off. Thursday night's damp campers had Lower, it was ofbeing drowned in the moved their tents and dried their bogs. Many paths looked like sleeping bags over the hut's fire only streams, the steeper parts transformed to wake on Saturday morning to find a into waterfalls; not unusual on Etive puddle under their karrimats. Build meets in latter years. up the fire...

The YRC Bulletin 99 Summer 1996 Friday had yielded one Munro, their losses and head south. The Saturday was a one hundred per cent couple of members lucky (?) enough improvement:; Buachaille Etive Beag to be able to extend their break to a and Creise were climbed. The latter full week set off to attempt Ben fell to a sporting route up a gulley Sgurlaird, having sensibly made bed which unexpectedly contained and breakfast arrangements for the excellent snow conditions. The pair of rest oftheir holiday. Has anyone seen climbers retraced their steps over them since? three tops because there was a PS: I do the YRC an injustice. In blizzard on the top and they had fact the President's party spent Sunday reached the edge oftheir map. In fact, attempting Meall Ghaordie, Victoria Bridge could have been encountering white-out conditions. reached by a quick descent. "The worse I have ever experienced", Having pondered the prevailing writes Derek. conditions in small groups scattered The B. and B. pair did indeed top out around the area, and assessed the best on Sgurlaird. Monday saw them on course of action, others proceeded as Ben Crucachan and Tuesday the one man to the nearest hostelry in time Horseshoe above Stronlichan to the for the kick off of the Rugby Union east ofthe Cruachan group. Intemational between Scotland and D.A.H. Wales. One trio was delayed by a man Attendance conducting a census. They were The President, Derek Bush flattered that he estimated their ages Ken Aldred to be in the range 35 - 45 (their Dennis Armstrong combined ages being in excess of TimBateman 150). He was, in fact, seeking their Albert Chapman views on the need for a new telephone lan Crowther hotline: Avalanche Watch perhaps? It Andrew Duxbury would be interesting to know, through Eddie Edwards the pages of this journal, members' lain Gilmour views on the need for such a service, Mike Godden On Sunday most of the party were of Richard Gowing the opinion that it was time to cut David Handley Mike Haltland DavidHick Gordon Humphreys Howard . Humphreys David Martindale Alister Renton Neil Renton (Guest) Duncan Mackay John McKean Derek Smithson Michael Smith David Smith Barrie Wood

TIle YRC Bulletin 100 Summer 1996