3 /2013 Summer INSTRUCTIONS

Please read the following buttonhole on the front is approx. ance may be used on interfacings for means that the hem allowance is general instructions before 4 cm from the neck seamline and heavy-weight fabrics. 2 cm and the seam allowance 1 cm. starting your project. the bottom buttonhole approx. 10 cm from the hemline. The rest of Materials Iron the garment seams as you sew How to choose the correct the buttonholes should be placed at and give the garment a final pressing size Fabric requirements are based on a when it is completed. regular intervals (6…9 cm) between fabric width of 145…150 cm. Pre- Children’s pattern sizes are primar- these points. shrink the fabric before cutting either Practical tips ily chosen according to the child’s For reasons of clarity, some of the by pre-washing or by steam pressing. Gathering: Decrease the upper height, and the pattern measurements pattern markings (e.g. positions for If you choose a different fabric from thread tension and increase the are then adjusted to correspond to Velcro tapes and buttons) have only­ the one suggested in the magazine, al- stitch length (stitch length 4...5). the child’s other body measurements. been printed on the smallest-size pat- low for matching up patterns and for Sew two rows of gathering stitches Adults’ sizes are chosen either ac- tern of the design. Copy these on the cutting with nap when calculating the 0.5 cm apart from each other on cording to the bust/chest measure- pattern size of your choice in the cor- fabric requirement. the right side of the edge to be gath- ment (e.g. blouses, jackets, coats) responding places, measuring the dis- Choose the interfacing on the basis ered, placing one row on the seamline or the hip measurement (, tance from the pattern edge. Large and the other within the seam allow- ). Take the measurements on of the fabric’s color, quality, pattern pieces are printed on the weight and care instructions. ance. Leave long thread ends. Gath- of thin underwear and compare pattern sheet in two parts. Combine er the fabric by pulling simultaneously them with the size chart. You will fin parts A and B before cutting out the Since the quality and stretch of elas- on both bobbin threads and spread- detailed instructions for taking meas- fabric. tics vary, check the elastic lengths be- ing the gathers between your fingers urements on the next page. fore sewing. evenly over the required length. The Cutting How to find the pattern pieces If a zipper is not available in a desired gathered edge is stitched in place be- on the pattern sheet Lay out the pattern pieces on a dou- length, buy a longer zipper and short- tween the gathering stitches using a ble layer of fabric observing the grain- en it as shown in the illustration on regular straight stitch. An overview of numbered, small-scale lines and foldlines. Draw the seam al- pattern sheet D. pattern pieces and a list of pattern Easing: Easing stitches are sewn as lowances on the fabric with tailor’s gathering stitches but the bobbin pieces can be found next to the sew- chalk. Sewing ing instructions for each design. The threads are pulled just enough to If you only need to cut a piece out Read through the instructions before make the edge curve slightly (e.g. in appropriate pattern sheet is also stat- you start sewing. If you wish, baste ed. On the bottom edge of the pat- once, observe the pattern markings set-in sleeve caps). and cut either on a fold (e.g. back, col- and try on the garment before sew- tern sheet, find the number with the ing. To make sewing easier, the in- Garments lined with knit correct color for the desired pattern lar) or from a single layer of fabric (e.g. pocket). structions have been written on the When the lining fabric is a knit and piece and move your finger upward basis of industrial working meth- on the sheet until you locate the The measurements for garment the fashion fabric a woven, cut the ods. The terms “inner”/”outer” and lining out with considerably narrow- same number. pieces ­listed under the heading “Cut “left”/”right” refer to the garment also these pieces” (e.g. belt loops, er seam allowances to keep the lining Trace the pattern on tissue paper, in- when worn. from showing under the fashion fabric. cluding all the necessary markings belts) already include seam allow- ances. Finish off the construction seams of (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket place- the garment as you sew, even if the ments). The markings are also visible When cutting out the garment, in- instructions do not specifical y men- on the small-scale patterns next to clude allowances for fitting adjust- tion this. To finish off seams you can © the instructions. Make all adjustments ments if necessary. Each design in- either use a serger or a machine zig- The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and ar- to the pattern before cutting out the cludes specific and detailed cutting zag stitch. On knit fabrics, stitch the ticles in this magazine are protected under in- garment pieces. ternational copyright laws. Professional, indus- instructions. seams using a machine stretch-stitch trial and commercial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a Patterns Garment sections to be interfaced or a serger. No separate seam finis written agreement with the copyright holder. For is necessary. Seams inside a lined gar- further information, contact us in writing, address: The patterns include hem allow- are shaded in grey in the overview of small-scale pattern pieces. Knitted ment do not necessarily have to be Studio Tuumat Oy, PL 2216, FIN-96201 Rovaniemi, ances, button extensions and fac- finished Finland. ings. When cutting out the garment and woven interfacings are cut on the grain, while non-woven interfacings OTTOBRE design® or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obli- pieces, add seam allowances of Hems (e.g. at the garment’s lower gation to compensate for possible financial losses re- may be cut in any direction as they edge or sleeve edges) are made by sulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern approx. 1 cm (depending on the fab- sheet or in the instructions. ric) to each edge of the pattern. do not have a grain. Interfacing pieces­ turning under the seam allowance are generally cut adding the same and topstitching close to the edge. Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, The position for the first or top amount of seam allowance (approx. The width of the hem and the seam Rovaniemi, Finland buttonhole is marked on the pat- 1 cm) as on pieces cut from fashion allowance is given in brackets; for tern. On blouses and shirts the top fabric. However, a smaller seam allow- example “sew hem (2 cm + 1 cm)” 22 MEASURING SIZE CHARTS THE CHILD

For taking the measurements, you’ll BABIES 50-92 cm need a tape measure and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist. You can sew a waist tape for Height cm 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 this purpose of a strip of cotton fold- ed in four (finished width 1.5 cm). 1. Chest measurement 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 54 Place the tape horizontally round the child’s waist and secure with a safe- 2. Waist measurement 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 ty pin. 3. Hip measurement 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging 4. Sleeve length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 free at the sides. 5. Inseam length 15 18 21 24 27 30 33.5 37 The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a light- weight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the posi- TODDLERS 92-122 cm GIRLS AND BOYS tion of the tape measure behind the child. Height cm 92 98 104 110 116 122 Height of the child: With the child standing up with the 1. Chest measurement 54 56 58 60 62 64 back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on 2. Waist measurement 53 54 55 56 57 58 the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book). The height of the child is the 3. Hip measurement 58 60 62 64 66 68 distance measured from the floor to 4. Back waist length 22.5 24 25 26.5 28 29.5 the marking. Chest measurement: 5. Sleeve length 32 34 36 38 40 42 Horizontal measurement round the 6. Outseam length 54 58 62 66 70 74 body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades. 7. Shoulder width 8.0 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10 Waist measurement: Measurement round the waist without the waist tape. Hip measurement: GIRLS 128-170 cm Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom). Outseam length: Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 Distance from the waist to the floor 1. Bust measurement 66 68 71 73 76 79 82 85 measured from the lower edge of the waist tape. 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 64 66 68 70 72 Inseam length: 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 79 82 85 88 91 Distance from the crotch to the floor when the child is standing legs 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 38.5 40 41.5 slightly apart with the weight evenly on both feet. 5. Sleeve length 44 46 48 50 52 54.5 57 59.5 Shoulder width: 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104.5 Distance from the base of the neck to the top of the arm. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.4 12.8 13.2 Sleeve length: Distance from the top of the arm to the wrist measured over the elbow with the arm slightly bent. BOYS 128-170 cm Back waist length: Distance from the most prominent Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 vertebra at the base of the neck to the lower edge of the waist tape. 1. Chest measurement 66 68 71 75 78 81 84 87 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 66 68 70 72 74 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 78 81 84 87 90 The measurements in the chart 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 39 41 43 are taken on the body. The patterns include the 5. Sleeve length 44 46 49 51.5 54 56.5 59 61.5 necessary allowances for 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104 ease of movement. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.5 13 13.5

You can find these charts with measurements in inches on page 47. 23 1. Speedy Girl jersey 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 14-15

MATERIALS 3 - 40-45-50-50-55-60-65 cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL) - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 75…90 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon® PATTERN PIECES cut For appliqué: 2 1 front 1 1 - scraps of single jersey in various 2 back 1 colors 3 sleeve 2 - double-sided fusible web, car appliqué Vlieseline® Vliesofix - tear-away backing, Vlieseline® Stickvlies PATTERN SHEET A red

CUTTING Appliqué: The motif has been printed Joining: Pin left sleeve to front and back maining raglan seam on back right, press Cut garment pieces from single jersey as on the pattern sheet as a mirror image. panels right sides together and stitch rag- seam allowances toward right sleeve and indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do Trace each part of motif on small piece lan seams. Pin right sleeve to front panel stitch them flat across neckline binding. not add seam allowances to neckline and of double-sided fusible web. Iron pieces and stitch raglan seam on front. Fold and Cut two 18-19-19-20-20-21-21 cm pieces bottom edges of sleeves. Cut 3.5 cm wide of fusible web onto wrong side of scraps press seam allowances gently toward of clear elastic tape for gathering bottom binding strips from ribbing for finishing of jersey and cut appliqué shapes out sleeves. Cut 31-32-33-34-35-36-37 cm edges of sleeves. Stitch tapes to sleeve neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. along their outlines. Remove paper backing piece of clear elastic tape for gathering edges, stretching tapes slightly as you sew. from wrong side of appliqué shapes and neckline. Mark both clear elastic tape and Finish bottom edges of sleeves with bind- SEWING iron shapes onto right side of front panel neckline into quarters. Gather neckline ing. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and as shown in design sketch. Pin piece of by machine-basting clear elastic tape to Construction techniques: Stitch seams side seams. Fold underarm seam allow- tear-away backing to wrong side of front neckline, stretching tape slightly and align- ances to one side and stitch them flat with serger or with overedge stretch panel under appliqué shapes. Stitch shapes ing quarter marks. Finish neckline with stitch on regular sewing machine. See across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up and in place close to edge with straight stitch. binding. (Make sure that the length of the press bottom hem and stitch it with twin general instructions for finishing edges Using short stitch length, stitch around neckline is right for the child before con- with binding on p. 45. needle on regular sewing machine or with each shape twice and backstitch to finish. tinuing as the stretch and recovery qual- serger coverstitch. Remove tear-away backing gently. ities of different rib knits vary). Stitch re-

2. Star-Star romper 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 16-17

CUTTING or machine-baste with straight stitch. Cut garment pieces from velour knit as Stitch side edges of pocket pieces to side indicated on list of pattern pieces; only seam edges of front panels. Stitch curved add seam allowances to shoulder, center- pocket edges in place with flatlock stitch from right side of front panel. back and side seams. Cut also 3.5 cm 3 2 wide binding strips from ribbing for fin- Joining: Stitch center-back seam. Stitch 1 ishing neckline, armholes, edges of pocket left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with openings and crotch edges. binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold seam allowances to one side and stitch SEWING them flat across neckline binding. Finish Construction techniques: Stitch seams armholes with binding. Stitch side seams. with serger or with overedge stretch Fold side seam allowances to one side stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch and stitch them flat across armhole bind- flatlock stitching on pockets and bottom- ings. leg hems with flatlock stitch on serger Fold up and press hems at bottom edges or with decorative overedge stitch on of legs and stitch them with flatlock stitch. MATERIALS regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb Finish crotch edges with binding and leave - 50-50-55-60-60-65-70 cm printed stitch). See general instructions for fin- a little extra at ends of bindings at bottom PATTERN PIECES cut cotton velour knit (CO/PES), ishing edges with binding on p. 45. edges of legs. Wrap ends of bindings to stretch/recovery 20% Pockets: Finish edges of pocket openings wrong side and stitch them to binding 1 front 1 with binding. Pin pocket pieces under 7 mm away from bottom edge of leg. Trim 2 back 2 - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL), excess binding off close to stitching. Attach width 90 cm pocket openings, with both pocket and 3 pocket piece 2 front panel right side up and aligning ends snap fasteners to crotch, spacing them - four small snap fasteners, evenly. ø 8 mm, Prym Mini of pocket opening with notches on pocket piece. Hand-baste pocket piece in place PATTERN SHEET A green

3. Baby Whale raglan-sleeve bodysuit 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 16-18

MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 50-50-50-55-55-60-60 cm striped For appliqué: cotton single jersey (CO/EL) - scraps of single jersey in various 2 1 front 1 - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL) colors 1 2 back 1 - 20 cm stay tape, Vlieseline® - double-sided fusible web, 3 sleeve 2 Formband Vlieseline® Vliesofix whale appliqué - three small snap fasteners, - tear-away backing, Vlieseline® Stickvlies 3 ø 8 mm, Prym Mini PATTERN SHEET A turquoise CUTTING Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for allowances toward right sleeve and stitch Cut garment pieces from single jersey as crotch portions of bottom edges of front them flat across neckline binding. indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do and back panels (portions where snap Finish bottom edges of sleeves with bind- not add seam allowances to neckline, fasteners are to be placed) and fuse tapes ing. Stitch right sleeve-underarm seam bottom edges of sleeves and bottom to wrong side of edges (see edges shaded and side seam. Finish bottom edges of edges of front and back panels. Cut in grey on small-scale patterns). front and back panels with binding. Stitch 3.5 cm wide binding strips from ribbing Appliqué: Make whale appliqué on front left sleeve-underarm seam and side seam. for finishing neckline, bottom edges of panel, following instructions for design Fold underarm seam allowances and side sleeves and bottom edge of garment. If no. 1. seam allowances to one side and stitch you use a binder attachment on your Joining: Pin left sleeve to front and back them flat across width of sleeve-edge coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, panels right sides together and stitch rag- bindings and across binding at bottom cut the binding strips in the width that lan seams. Pin right sleeve to front panel edge of garment. fits the binder. and stitch raglan seam on front. Fold and Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to crotch press seam allowances gently toward as marked on pattern, placing socket SEWING sleeves. Finish neckline with binding. (Make halves on back panel. Construction techniques: Stitch seams sure that the length of the neckline is with serger or with overedge stretch right for the child before continuing as stitch on regular sewing machine. See the stretch and recovery qualities of dif- general instructions for finishing edges ferent rib knits vary). Stitch remaining with binding on p. 45. raglan seam on back right, press seam

4. Summer Sea jersey pants 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 14-19

2

CUTTING Cut pants panel from single jersey and it slightly and aligning quarter marks. 1 waistband and bottom-leg cuffs from Stitch side edges of waistband together ribbing as indicated on list of pattern to form circle. Fold, pin and stitch hem pieces. at top edge of waistband as marked on pattern. Mark bottom edge of waistband SEWING into quarters. Pin waistband to pants Construction techniques: Stitch seams waist edge right sides together, placing with serger or with overedge stretch seam on waistband at pants center-back 3 stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch seam. Stitch waist seam, stretching both MATERIALS hems with twin needle on regular sewing waistband and pants waist edge firmly as machine or with serger coverstitch. you sew in order to produce an elastic - 35-35-35-40-40-45-45 cm printed seam. Leave pants inside out. or striped cotton single jersey Joining: Fold pants panel in half, right PATTERN PIECES cut sides together, and stitch center-back Stitch side edges of each bottom-leg cuff (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20-30% together to form circles. Stitch hems at - 15…20 cm ribbing (CO/EL), seam. Stitch leg inseams. Cut piece of 1 pants panel 1 clear elastic tape for waist edge (length bottom edges of cuffs as marked on pat- width 90 cm tern. Place cuffs inside pants legs, right 2 waistband 1 of tape = child’s waist measurement). 3 bottom-leg cuff 2 - 45...50 cm clear elastic tape, Mark waist edge and clear elastic tape sides together. Stitch cuffs to bottom width 5 mm, Framilon® into quarters. Machine-baste clear elastic edges of legs, stretching both cuffs and tape to waist seam allowance, stretching bottom edges of legs slightly as you sew. PATTERN SHEET A lilac

5. Little Elephant hooded 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 18-19

MATERIALS 5 - 45-50-60-65-65-70-70 cm printed organic-cotton single jersey 1 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% PATTERN PIECES cut - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width 90 cm 1 front yoke 2 - 120…145 cm clear elastic tape, 2 back yoke 1 width 5 mm, Framilon® 3 lower front panel 1 - 20 cm stay tape, Vlieseline® 3 4 4 lower back panel 1 Formband 5 hood 2 - three snap fasteners, ø 8 mm, Prym Mini PATTERN SHEET A orange CUTTING use a binder attachment on your cover- general instructions for finishing edges add seam allowances). Copy pattern mark- Cut garment pieces from single jersey as stitch machine to attach the bindings, cut with binding on p. 45. ings for gathering on lower front and indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do the binding strips in the width that fits Preparation: Cut pieces of stay tape for back panels and on clear elastic tapes. not add seam allowances to armholes, the binder. front edges of front yokes and fuse them Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to wrong front edges of front yokes and hood, and to wrong side of front edges. Cut pieces side of seam allowances on top edges of bottom edges of lower front and back SEWING of clear elastic tape for gathering top lower front and back panels, stretching panels. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips Construction techniques: Stitch seams edges of lower front and back panels tapes slightly and aligning pattern markings. from ribbing for finishing front edges, with serger or with overedge stretch (measure required lengths of tape on pat- armholes and bottom-hem edge. If you stitch on regular sewing machine. See tern pieces for front and back yokes and Cut two 29-30-31-32-33-34-35 cm pieces and aligning pattern markings. of front yokes by width of binding and seam. Finish bottom-hem edge with of clear elastic tape for gathering bottom Joining: Pin front and back yokes right machine-baste them together, stitching binding. Stitch left side seam. Fold side edges of lower front and back panels. sides together and stitch shoulder seams. within seam allowance on bottom edges seam allowances to one side and stitch Mark midpoints on bottom edges of lower Pin hood panels right sides together and of yokes. them flat across armhole binding and front and back panels as well as on clear stitch top/back seam. Pin and stitch hood Stitch lower front and back panels to bottom-hem binding. elastic tapes. Machine-baste clear elastic to garment’s neckline, right sides together. front and back yokes right sides together, Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to front tapes to seam allowances on lower front Finish front edges of front yokes and stretching edges slightly as you sew. Finish yokes as shown in design sketch. and back panels, stretching them slightly hood with binding. Overlap front edges armholes with binding. Stitch right side

6. Funny Race short-sleeved hooded sweatshirt 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 14-15

8 5

PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 1 2 1 front yoke 2 - 45-50-55-60-65-70-70 cm 2 back yoke 1 lightweight sweatshirt knit 6 lower front panel 1 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20% 7 lower back panel 1 - 15 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 7 5 hood 2 - 20 cm stay tape, 9 6 8 sleeve 2 Vlieseline®Formband 9 pocket 1 - three snap fasteners, ø 8 mm, Prym Mini PATTERN SHEET A orange CUTTING SEWING Joining: Pin front and back yokes right Finish bottom edges of sleeves with bind- Cut garment pieces from sweatshirt knit Construction techniques: Stitch seams sides together and stitch shoulder seams. ing. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch right as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do with serger or with overedge stretch Pin hood panels right sides together and sleeve-underarm seam and side seam. not add seam allowances to front edges stitch on regular sewing machine. See stitch top/back seam. Pin and stitch hood Finish bottom-hem edge with binding. of front yokes and hood, bottom edges general instructions for finishing edges to garment’s neckline, right sides together. Stitch left sleeve-underarm seam and side of sleeves, opening edges of pocket, and with binding on p. 45. Finish front edges of front yokes and seam. Fold underarm and side seam allow- hood with binding. Overlap front edges ances to one side and stitch them flat bottom edges of lower front and back Preparation: Cut pieces of stay tape for panels. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips of front yokes by width of binding and across sleeve-edge bindings and bottom- front edges of front yokes and fuse them machine-baste them together, stitching hem binding. from ribbing for finishing these edges. If to wrong side of front edges. Finish open- you use a binder attachment on your within seam allowance on bottom edges Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to front ing edges of pocket with binding. Turn of yokes. coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, seam allowances on other edges of pocket yokes as shown in design sketch. cut the binding strips in the width that to wrong side, and pin and stitch pocket Stitch lower front and back panels to fits the binder. to lower front panel as marked on pattern. front and back yokes right sides together.

7. Easy Piece jersey pants 92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 6-8

PATTERN PIECES cut 3 MATERIALS 1 pants front 1 1 2 - 35-40-40-40-45-45 cm striped 2 pants back 1 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), 3 waistband 1 stretch/recovery 30% 4 bottom-leg cuff 2 - 30 cm firm ribbing (CO/EL) - 50…60 cm clear elastic tape, PATTERN SHEET A brown 4 width 5 mm, Framilon®

CUTTING Joining: Pin pants front and back right marks with center-front, center-back and and side seam points at waist edge. Cut pants front and back from striped sides together and stitch side seams and side seam points at waist edge. Stitch side edges of each bottom-leg cuff single jersey and other garment pieces leg inseam. Leave pants inside out. Cut Stitch side edges of waistband together together to form circles. Stitch hems at from ribbing as indicated on list of pattern piece of clear elastic tape for waist edge to form circle. Fold band in half, wrong bottom edges of cuffs as marked on pat- pieces. (length of tape = child’s waist measure- sides together. Mark waistband into quar- tern, using suitable decorative overedge ment). Mark center-front and center-back ters. Place waistband inside pants, right stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. SEWING points on pants waist seam allowance sides together, and pin and stitch waist honeycomb stitch), or double or triple and mark clear elastic tape into quarters. seam, stretching both pants and waistband coverstitch on serger. Stitch cuffs to bot- Construction techniques: Stitch seams Machine-baste clear elastic tape to right with serger or with overedge stretch slightly and aligning quarter marks on tom edges of legs right sides together, side of pants waist seam allowance, waistband with center-front, center-back stretching cuffs as you sew. stitch on regular sewing machine. stretching it slightly and aligning its quarter 8. Fire Truck shortalls 74-80-86-92-98-104-110 cm Pages 6-7

4 7 MATERIALS 3 - 55-55-55-60-65-70-80 cm cotton 6 twill with slight stretch (CO/EL), width 150 cm - 30 cm contrast-color cotton fabric for front facing and 5 PATTERN PIECES cut shoulder straps - 23...26 cm elastic, width 3 cm 1 pants front 2 - piece of interfacing, 1 2 2 pants back 2 Vlieseline® H 180 3 front facing 1 - four buttons, ø 15 mm, 4 shoulder strap 2+2 and four buttons, ø 18 mm 5 front pocket 1 For appliqué: 6 leg pocket 2 - scraps of cotton fabric or single 7 pocket flap 4 jersey in various colors fire engine appliqué - double-sided fusible web, fire hydrant appliqué Vlieseline® Vliesofix - tear-away backing, PATTERN SHEET A blue Vlieseline® Stickvlies

CUTTING at opening edge of front pocket. Sew row backing from wrong side of appliqué pockets upside down, with open edge of Cut front facing and inner shoulder-strap of ease-stitching within seam allowance shapes and iron shapes onto right side flap toward pocket and outside of flap pieces from contrast-color cotton fabric along bottom edge of pocket. Make card- of pants as shown in design sketch. (Take facing right side of pants, and stitch flaps and other garment pieces from fashion board template with pattern piece for note of position of bottom-leg hem and to pants legs, placing stitching approx. fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. pocket. Lay pocket on an ironing board, bottom edge of pocket as you arrange 15 mm above opening edge of pocket. right side down, and lay template on wrong shapes in place.) Pin piece of tear-away Trim seam allowances, fold flaps down in SEWING side of pocket. Pull up bobbin thread of backing to wrong side of pants under ap- position and topstitch along their top ease-stitching, turn pocket seam allow- pliqué shapes. Stitch shapes in place close edges, concealing seam allowances. Construction techniques: Stitch seams ances over edge of template to wrong to edge with straight stitch. Using short Leg inseams and bottom edges of with straight stitch and finish them with side and press pocket edges thoroughly. stitch length, stitch around each shape serger or zigzag stitch. legs: Stitch leg inseams. Fold up, press Pin pocket to pants front as marked on twice and backstitch to finish. Remove and stitch hems at bottom edges of legs Preparation: Cut interfacings for but- pattern and stitch it in place with two tear-away backing gently. as marked on pattern. tonhole positions at top corners of pants parallel rows of stitching. Fire : Cut 15 mm wide strip from fronts and on pocket flaps and fuse them Shoulder straps: Pin shoulder strap Finish raw bottom edge of front facing. striped single jersey. Fold strip in half pieces together in pairs (outer + inner) in place (see areas shaded in grey on Pin facing and pants front right sides to- wrong sides together, pin it to pants leg small-scale patterns). and stitch long edges and straight end. gether and stitch top edges and curved as shown in design sketch and stitch it in Trim corners and turn straps right side Joining: Pin pants backs right sides to- side edges together. Trim seam allowances place close to its cut edges. Fold folded out. Press straps flat and topstitch around gether and stitch center-back seam. Finish at corners and clip them along curves. edge of strip over previous stitching line, them close to edge. Finish raw open ends center-back seam allowances and back- Turn facing right side out. Pin pants front concealing cut edges, and stitch it to pants of straps. Pin open ends of straps to pants waist seam allowance. Topstitch center- and pants back right sides together and close to edge (this creates a tubular effect back waist, placing each strap 3 cm away back seam close to seamline. Measure stitch side seams from bottom edge of on the hose). Appliqué hose coupler at from center-back seam and crossing straps and cut piece of elastic to fit the child leg to seam that attaches facing. Fold fac- one end of hose and nozzle at the other at back at a point 12 cm from their ends, (half of child’s waist measurement minus ing over back waist edge onto wrong side end. Embroider spray of water at nozzle and stitch straps in place along rows of 2 cm) and mark midpoint on it. Machine- of pants back and stitch side edges of fac- end of hose using straight stitch. stitching on waist casing. baste elastic at its both ends to side seam ing to pants side seamlines. Turn pants Leg pockets: Construct leg pockets in Finishing: Stitch contrast-color bar-tacks allowances across waist casing allowance. right side out, fold side seam allowances the same way as front pocket and stitch Machine-baste elastic at its midpoint to toward pants front and topstitch side (= short rows of reinforcing stitching them over side seams with two parallel sewn with narrow, short zigzag) at top center-back seamline across waist casing seams close to seamline. Topstitch edges rows of stitching as marked on pattern. allowance. Fold casing allowance with of front bib with two parallel rows of corners of front pocket. Pin crossed elastic to wrong side and stitch its bottom stitching. Pocket flaps: Pin pocket-flap pieces right shoulder straps together and secure them sides together in pairs (inner + outer) together with bar-tack. Stitch buttonholes edge to pants back, stretching elastic as Appliqués: The motifs have been printed you sew. Sew another row of stitching to and stitch their outer edges. Trim corners, at top corners of front bib as marked on on the pattern sheet as mirror images. press seams open and turn flaps right pattern. Sew smaller buttons on pockets waist casing through all layers, placing it Trace each part of motifs on small piece in the middle of elastic. side out. Topstitch outer edges of flaps and large buttons at ends of shoulder of double-sided fusible web. Iron pieces using presser-foot edge as guide and ma- straps as marked on pattern. Pin pants fronts right sides together and of fusible web onto wrong side of scraps chine-baste their open edges together at stitch center-front seam. Topstitch center- of fabric or jersey and cut appliqué shapes the same time. Stitch buttonholes on flaps front seam close to seamline. Stitch hem out along their outlines. Remove paper as marked on pattern. Pin flaps above leg

9. Brave Firemen raglan T-shirt 74-80-86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 6-9 A B MATERIALS - 40-45-45-50-50-55-55-55-60-60 cm - 15 cm ribbing (CO/EL) printed organic-cotton single jersey For appliqué, design B: (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - scraps of single jersey in (design A) various colors - 40-45-45-50-50-55-55-55-60-60 cm - double-sided fusible web, pale-colored and 25-25-25-25-25- Vlieseline® Vliesofix 25-30-30-30-30 cm dark-colored - tear-away backing, striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), Vlieseline® Stickvlies stretch/recovery 30% (design B) CUTTING Stitch shapes in place close to edge with toward body of garment and topstitch Cut neckline binding and sleeve cuffs from straight stitch. Using short stitch length, neckline seam with twin needle. Stitch ribbing and other garment pieces from stitch around each shape twice and back- sleeve cuffs to bottom edges of sleeves single jersey as indicated on list of pattern stitch to finish. Remove tear-away backing in the same way as neckline binding. Steam pieces. Note that front and back panels gently. neckline and sleeve edges to shrink them of design B are cut from pale-colored Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back back to their original length. and sleeves from dark-colored striped panels right sides together and stitch rag- Finishing: Fold up and press bottom single jersey. lan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams hem and stitch it with twin needle on 3 and side seams. Leave garment inside out. regular sewing machine or with double SEWING Neckline and sleeve edges: Stitch ends or triple coverstitch on serger. Construction techniques: Stitch seams of neckline binding right sides together 5 with serger or with overedge stretch to form circle and fold it in half, wrong stitch on regular sewing machine. sides together. Mark binding and neckline 4 Appliqué, design B: The motif has been into quarters (note that seam on binding printed on the pattern sheet as a mirror is placed at one of the raglan seams at PATTERN PIECES cut image. Trace each part of motif on small back). Place binding inside neckline and piece of double-sided fusible web. Iron pin it to neck edge, aligning quarter marks. Machine-baste binding to neckline with 1 front 1 pieces of fusible web onto wrong side of 2 back 1 2 scraps of jersey and cut appliqué shapes straight stitch, stretching both binding 1 and neck edge as you sew. If you use a 3 sleeve 2 out along their outlines. Remove paper 4 neckline binding 1 backing from wrong side of appliqué coverstitch serger, fold neckline seam al- shapes and iron shapes onto right side lowances toward body of garment and 5 sleeve cuff 2 of front panel as shown in design sketch. topstitch neckline seam with double or fireman appliqué Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong triple coverstitch. If you use a regular se- side of front panel under appliqué shapes. wing machine, finish neckline seam allow- ances with zigzag or serger, fold them PATTERN SHEET A black

10. Sporty Pocket jersey shorts 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 4-5

7 6

MATERIALS 3 4 - 45-45-50-50-50-60-65 cm striped PATTERN PIECES cut cotton single jersey (CO/EL), 1 pants front 2 stretch/recovery 30% 5 - 8 cm green ribbing (CO/EL) 2 pants back 2 1 2 - 10 cm turquoise poplin and 3 pocket band 2 15 cm x 15 cm piece of grey 4 pocket piece 2 poplin for back pocket (CO) 5 leg side panel 2 - piece of interfacing, 6 back pocket 1 Vlieseline® G 785 7 waistband 1 - 50…55 cm elastic, width 3.5 cm PATTERN SHEET B blue CUTTING Back pocket: Stitch hem at opening fold seam allowances on long edge of marked on pattern. Pin one edge of waist- Cut leg side panels from turquoise and edge of pocket. Sew row of ease-stitching pocket opening toward front panel and band to pants waist edge right sides to- back pocket from grey poplin. Cut waist- within seam allowance along curved edge topstitch seam close to seamline. gether and stitch it in place with straight band from ribbing and other garment of pocket. Make cardboard template with Pin pocket piece under pocket opening, stitch, stretching both waist edge and pieces from striped single jersey as indi- pattern piece for pocket. Lay pocket on with both pocket piece and front panel waistband slightly as you sew. Fold waist- cated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also an ironing board, right side down, and lay right side up. Turn seam allowances at top band in half wrong sides together, pin its 2.5 cm x 70...85 cm strip from single jer- template on wrong side of pocket. Pull and bottom edges of pocket opening free edge to waist edge and stitch it in sey for drawstring. up bobbin thread of ease-stitching, turn onto pocket band, right sides together, place with flatlock stitch on serger or seam allowance on curved pocket edge and pin and stitch edges of pocket opening with decorative overedge stitch on regular SEWING over edge of template to wrong side and to both pocket band and pocket piece sewing machine. Insert elastic into waist- press pocket edge thoroughly. Pin pocket band. Stitch ends of elastic together to Construction techniques: Stitch side (start stitching at clipped corner and end to left pants back as marked on pattern, it at side seam edge). Stitch curved edge form circle. seams with straight stitch and finish them aligning its straight edge with outer edge with serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch other of pocket piece to front panel with flatlock Fold drawstring strip in half wrong sides of side seam allowance on pants panel, stitch. Machine-baste side edge of pocket together and press. Turn seam allowances seams with serger or with overedge and stitch it in place with two parallel stretch stitch on regular sewing machine to garment’s side seam allowance. Stitch on long edges and ends of drawstring rows of stitching. Stitch contrast-color contrast-color bar-tacks at top and bot- under and stitch edges together with unless otherwise instructed. Stitch flatlock bar-tack (= row of reinforcing stitching stitching on front pockets and waistband tom edges of pocket opening. straight stitch close to edge, stretching sewn with narrow, short zigzag) at top drawstring slightly as you sew. Steam with flatlock stitch on serger or with de- right corner of pocket. Joining: Machine-baste top edges of corative overedge stitch on regular sewing pockets to waist seam allowances. Pin drawstring to shrink it back to its actual machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Front pockets: Fold pocket band in half and stitch pants fronts and pants backs length. Thread drawstring into waistband as marked on pattern and press. Machine- through opening at center-back and thread Preparation: Cut interfacings for pocket to leg side panels right sides together. baste long edges of band together close Fold seam allowances toward side panels ends of drawstring out through button- openings on pants fronts and for pocket to outer edges of seam allowances. Top- hole on front. Secure midpoint of draw- bands and fuse them in place (see areas and topstitch seams with two parallel stitch folded edge of pocket band. Pin rows of stitching. Stitch leg inseams. Stitch string to elastic at point where ends of shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). and stitch machine-basted edge of pocket elastic are joined (at center-back seam Stitch 18 mm long buttonhole on waist- crotch seam. Fold up and press hems at band to edge of pocket opening, right bottom edges of legs and stitch them on waistband) with row of backstitching band as marked on pattern, placing mid- sides together, starting and ending stitching to stop drawstring from slipping out. point of buttonhole at center-front mark with serger coverstitch or with twin at horizontal seamlines at top and bottom needle on regular sewing machine. Close opening on waistband by hand- (lay piece of poplin to wrong side of waist- ends of band. Clip corners of pocket stitching. Stitch vertical bar-tack through band before stitching buttonhole to rein- opening diagonally to each end of this Waistband: Stitch ends of waistband all layers across midpoint of buttonhole force buttonhole area). Open button- row of stitching and finish seam allowances together to form circle, leaving small on waistband, forming separate holes for hole. together. Turn pocket band right way up, opening for inserting elastic in seam as each end of drawstring to pass through. 11. Birthday Fish T-shirt 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 4-5, 10-11

MATERIALS - 50-55-55-60-60-65-65 cm white 3 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 4 - 6 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - pieces of contrast-color cotton single jersey for trims over shoulder seams; on design A, one trim is orange and the other PATTERN PIECES cut green; on design B both trims are yellow 1 front 1 1 2 For appliqué: 2 back 1 - scraps of single jersey (green 3 sleeve 2 scrap for design A; black and 4 neckline binding 1 yellow scraps for design B) number appliqué, design A - double-sided fusible web, fish appliqué, design B Vlieseline® Vliesofix - tear-away backing, PATTERN SHEET B black Vlieseline® Stickvlies

CUTTING fusible web. Iron fusible web onto wrong mat and ruler). Cut also one triangular straight stitch. Trim seam allowances to Cut neckline binding from ribbing and side of scrap of single jersey and cut piece from yellow single jersey. Lay motif 3 mm and press seams open. Turn and other garment pieces from cotton single appliqué shape out along its outlines. (You sketch onto wrong side of front panel, press seam allowances on long edges of jersey as indicated on list of pattern can use the cut-out number shape as an so that it shows through the panel. trim pieces to wrong side (finished width pieces. Cut 2 cm wide strips from appliqué on another garment.) Remove Remove paper backing from appliqué of trims should be approx. 1 cm). Pin contrast-color cotton single jersey for paper backing from wrong side of appliqué shapes and iron shapes onto right side trims over shoulder seams and stitch trims over shoulder seams (measure shape and iron shape onto right side of of front panel, carefully following motif them in place along both edges with required length on pattern and add seam front panel as shown in design sketch. sketch. straight stitch. allowances). Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom side of front panel under appliqué shape. side of front panel under appliqué motif. edges of sleeves as marked on pattern. SEWING Stitch shape in place close to edge with Stitch black triangles and diamonds in Stitch sleeves to armholes right sides straight stitch. Using short stitch length, Construction techniques: Stitch seams place close to edge with straight stitch, together. Stitch left sleeve-underarm seam stitch along each edge twice and backstitch using black sewing thread and short stitch and side seam. (Design B: Make fish with serger or with overedge stretch to finish. Remove tear-away backing gently. stitch on regular sewing machine unless length. Stitching is easier if you first stitch appliqué on front and back panels.) Stitch otherwise instructed. Stitch sleeve-edge Design B, appliqué: Note! Since the along all vertical lines with a continuous right sleeve-underarm seam and side hems and bottom hem with twin needle fish appliqué overlaps the side seam, first row of stitching, then along diagonals seam. Fold underarm seam allowances to on regular sewing machine or with double follow the instructions under “Joining” from top left to bottom right as well as one side and stitch them flat across sleeve- or triple coverstitch on serger. Design and construct the garment as far as diagonals from top right to bottom left, edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch A: Use contrast-color thread for stitching the left side seam, and then make and finally the outlines of the fish motif. bottom hem as marked on pattern. Leave topstitching at neckline, sleeve edges and the appliqué. Trace motif from pattern Stitch yellow triangle (= eye) in place garment inside out. Finish neckline with bottom hem. sheet or print it out from our website. using yellow thread. (You can use the rib binding, following instructions for Trace appliqué motif on double-sided triangles left over after cutting out the design no. 9 (place seam on binding at Design A, appliqué: The number motif fusible web. Iron fusible web onto wrong appliqué shapes for a smaller appliqué on center-back mark on back panel). has been printed on the pattern sheet as side of black single jersey and cut parts another T-shirt.) a mirror image. You can also print numbers of motif out along their outlines (cutting Joining: Pin front and back wrong sides 0-9 out from our website. Trace outlines is best done using a rotary cutter, cutting of circle and number on double-sided together and stitch shoulder seams with

12. Seesaw summer dress 98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 50-51

MATERIALS jersey for finishing armholes. If you use - 75-80-85-90-95-100-105-115- a binder attachment on your coverstitch 120 cm printed organic-cotton machine to attach the bindings, cut the 2 single jersey* (CO/EL), binding strips in the width that fits the 1 stretch/recovery 30% binder. - 125…150 cm clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm SEWING 4 * Note! If you wish to make the dress Construction techniques: Stitch seams from exactly the same kind of fabric with serger or with overedge stretch as the sample dress, the fabric stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch requirement is 150-160-170-180- bottom hem with twin needle on regular 3 5 190-200-210-230-240 cm. The fabric sewing machine or with serger cover- used for the sample dress has a stitch. See general instructions for finishing print pattern in orange on one half edges with binding on p. 45. of its width and the same pattern Gathering panels: Cut pieces of in yellow on the other half. Therefore clear elastic tape for gathering top edges PATTERN PIECES cut only the 80 cm wide portion of the of skirt panels as follows: Measure re- fabric with the orange print pattern quired lengths of tape on bottom edges 1 front 1 can be made use of on this dress. of pattern pieces for bodice front and 2 bodice back 1 back and add seam allowances. Mark clear 3 skirt panel 2 CUTTING elastic tapes and top edges of skirt panels into quarters. Stitch clear elastic tapes to 4 front collar 1 Cut garment pieces from cotton single seam allowances on top edges of skirt 5 back collar 1 jersey as indicated on list of pattern panels, placing them to right side and pieces. Do not add seam allowances to stretching them slightly as you sew (on PATTERN SHEET B orange armholes and outer edges of collar pieces. finished garment, tape will be concealed Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from single between seam allowances). >>> Joining: Stitch shoulder seams. Finish of tape on neck edges of bodice front serger. Understitch neckline seam allow- Pin and stitch skirt panels to bodice front armholes with binding. Finish outer edges and back). Mark neckline and clear elastic ances to bodice front and back close to and back right sides together. Stitch side of collar pieces with serger rolled hem tape into quarters. Machine-baste clear seamline from wrong side of neck edge. seams. Fold side seam allowances to one or with narrow, short zigzag. Pin and stitch elastic tape to outer edge of neckline Fold collar right way up. Attach shoulder side and stitch them flat across armhole collar pieces right sides together. seam allowance, to its right side, aligning seams of collar to garment’s shoulder bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom Cut piece of clear elastic tape for stabi- quarter marks. Pin collar to neckline, with seams with a few hand stitches sewn from hem. lizing neckline (measure required length right side of collar facing wrong side of wrong side in order to secure collar in neck edge, and stitch neckline seam with position.

13. Vichy Bow sleeveless top 98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 48-49

6 7 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 1 2 1 front 1 - 40-45-45-50-50-55-55-60-60 cm 2 back 1 solid-color and 15 cm printed 6 bow A 1 gingham-check cotton single 7 bow B 1 jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ recovery 30% PATTERN SHEET B orange CUTTING SEWING tom edges of front and back panels. Stitch three lengthwise and wrap it around mid- Cut front and back from solid-color and Construction techniques: Stitch seams side seams. Fold seam allowances to one point of bow, with its raw edge on its un- bow pieces from gingham-check single with serger or with overedge stretch side and stitch them flat across armhole derside. Stitch ends of center piece to- jersey as indicated on list of pattern stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bindings and bottom hem. gether. pieces. Do not add seam allowances to bottom hem with twin needle on regular Bow: Fold bow piece A in half lengthwise, Fold bow piece B in half lengthwise, right neckline and armholes. Cut 3.5 cm wide sewing machine or with serger cover- right sides together, and stitch its outer sides together, and stitch its outer edges; binding strips from gingham-check single stitch. See general instructions for finishing edges; leave small opening for turning in leave small opening for turning in the jersey for finishing neckline and armholes. edges with binding on p. 45. the middle of piece. Trim seam allowances, middle of piece. Trim corners, turn piece If you use a binder attachment on your Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish turn bow piece right side out and press right side out and press it gently. Close coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder it gently. Close opening for turning by opening for turning by hand-stitching. cut the binding strips in the width that seam. Fold seam allowances to one side hand-stitching. At the same time, sew row Thread piece B through center piece on fits the binder. and stitch them flat across neckline bind- of gathering stitches across midpoint of underside of bow and stitch it to bow. ing. Finish armholes with binding. Fold, bow and gather bow. Cut 3 cm x 4 cm Pin bow to garment’s neckline and stitch press and stitch 2 cm wide hems at bot- piece from gingham-check single jersey it in place close to center piece. for center piece of bow. Fold piece in

14. Surprise flounce skirt 98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 48-49

4 5 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS a-b-c-d-e - 40-45-45-45-50-55-60-60-65 cm 3 a 1 skirt front panel 1 small polka-dot, 25...30 cm large b 2 skirt back panel 1 polka-dot and 25...30 cm floral 1 2 c 3 pocket 2 cotton fabric (CO) 4 waistband 1 - 40 cm narrow border lace d 5 flounce a+b+c+d+e 5 - 25 cm elastic, width 6 mm e - 50…60 cm elastic, width 20 mm PATTERN SHEET B red CUTTING rower elastic into two equal-length pieces. back panel with tailor’s chalk or by hand- band in half lengthwise, right sides to- Cut skirt panels and waistband from small Stitch pieces of elastic along both edges basting. Pin flounces to skirt back panel, gether, and press. Stitch ends of waistband polka-dot cotton fabric and pockets from to wrong side of pockets with straight with both flounce and skirt panel right together to form circle. Sew gathering large polka-dot fabric. Trace pattern pieces stitch as marked on pattern, stretching side up and aligning top edges of flounces stitches along waist edges of skirt panels for flounces observing markings on small- them as you sew. with placement lines. Stitch flounces in and gather edges to fit waistband. Stitch scale patterns. Cut flounces a and d from Sew row of ease-stitching within seam place with straight stitch close to their inside edge of waistband to garment’s floral, b and e from large polka-dot and allowance along curved edge of each top edges. Machine-baste top edge of waist edge, with its right side facing wrong c from small polka-dot cotton fabric as pocket. Make cardboard template with flounce a to waist seam allowance on side of garment. Turn seam allowance on indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do pattern piece for pocket. Lay pocket on skirt back panel. Machine-baste side edges outside edge of waistband to wrong side, not add seam allowances to flounces. an ironing board, right side down, and lay of flounces to side seam allowances on pin edge to right side of waist edge and template on wrong side of pocket. Pull skirt panel. stitch close to edge, leaving small opening SEWING up bobbin thread of ease-stitching, turn Joining: Pin skirt front and back right for inserting elastic at center-back mark. Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit Construction techniques: Stitch seams seam allowance on curved pocket edge sides together and stitch side seams. over edge of template to wrong side and Finish raw bottom-hem edge. Fold up and the child’s waist. Insert elastic into waist- with straight stitch and finish them with band and stitch its ends together. Stitch serger or zigzag stitch. press pocket edge thoroughly. Pin and press bottom hem and stitch it in two stitch pockets to skirt front panel as parts: first stitch hem on skirt back, opening for inserting elastic. If you wish, Pockets: Finish raw edges of pockets marked on pattern. working under lowest flounce, and then you can also stitch across waistband and stitch narrow hems at their opening hem on skirt front. through all layers at side seams, in order edges. Cut lace into two equal-length Flounces: Finish top and bottom edges to prevent elastic from getting twisted pieces and stitch pieces to opening edges of flounces with serger rolled hem or Waistline: Mark waistband into quarters within waistband. of pockets with straight stitch. Cut nar- with narrow, short zigzag. Mark placement and mark center-front and center-back lines for flounces b, c, d and e on skirt points at garment’s waist edge. Fold waist- 15. Forest Animals jersey dress 92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 12

5 MATERIALS 7 - 40-40-45-50-50-55-55-60-65- 65 cm printed organic-cotton 6 3 single jersey (CO/EL) and PATTERN PIECES cut 1 45-50-50-55-60-60-65-70-70- 75 cm striped cotton single jersey 1 front 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 2 lower front panel 2 - 10 cm interfacing, 3 back 1 Vlieseline® G 785 4 lower back panel 1 - 25...30 cm stay tape, 5 sleeve 2 Vlieseline® Formband 6 pocket 2 - 50…60 cm elastic, width 6 mm 7 button band 2 2 4 - 7-8 small open-ring snap fasteners, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET B green CUTTING bottom hem and hems at opening edges Pin and stitch lower front and back panels Fold bottom-hem end of each button Preshrink fabrics before cutting. Cut front of pockets with twin needle on regular to front and back panels right sides to- band right sides together and stitch ends. and back panels as well as sleeves from sewing machine or with serger cover- gether. Fold seam allowances toward front Turn ends right side out and topstitch printed and other garment pieces from stitch. See general instructions for finishing and back panels and steam seams. Finish folded edges and bottom edges of button striped cotton single jersey as indicated edges with binding on p. 45. bottom edges of sleeves with binding. bands close to edge. Machine-baste open on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam Preparation: Cut pieces of stay tape for Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves to edges of button bands together at the allowances to neckline and bottom edges shoulder edges on back panel (measure armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams same time. Pin and stitch button bands of sleeves. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips required length on pattern piece and add and side seams. Fold underarm seam al- to garment’s front edges, right sides to- from striped single jersey for finishing seam allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong lowances to one side and stitch them flat gether. Fold seam allowances toward front neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If side of shoulder seam allowances. Cut across sleeve-edge bindings. Measure and panels and topstitch seams with twin you use a binder attachment on your interfacings for button bands and fuse cut a piece of elastic to fit the child’s needle or with serger coverstitch. Finish coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, them in place (see area shaded in grey waist. Mark center-back and side-seam neckline with binding and leave a little cut the binding strips in the width that on small-scale pattern). Press folds on points on elastic. Mark placement line for extra at each end of binding. Wrap ends fits the binder. button bands as marked on pattern. elastic at garment’s waist by gently pressing of binding tightly to wrong side and stitch a fold at appropriate place. Stitch elastic them in place close to garment’s front Joining: Fold, press and stitch hems at SEWING in place with straight stitch along both edge. Trim excess binding off close to opening edges of pockets. Turn and press edges, stretching it as you sew. Steam stitching. Construction techniques: Stitch seams seam allowances on other pocket edges elastic to shrink it back to its original with serger or with overedge stretch to wrong side. Pin and stitch pockets to Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to length. Fold up, press and stitch bottom button bands as shown in design sketch. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch front panels as marked on pattern. hem as marked on pattern.

16. Flower Hexagon cotton dress 92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 55

4

PATTERN PIECES cut 1 2 1 bodice front 1 2 bodice back 1 3 skirt panel 2 5 4 sleeve 2 MATERIALS 5 neckline facing* 1 - 60-60-70-70-75-100-105- 6 binding for slit* 1 110-115-120 cm printed cotton 7 pocket 2+2 fabric (CO) 3 7 - 50 cm taffeta ribbon, width 6 mm 6 PATTERN SHEET C green

CUTTING and reducing them gradually to 1 mm end of each ribbon to center-back edge, and back as marked on pattern. Under- Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- when approaching bottom of slit. Fold close to neckline. Fold facing to wrong stitch seam allowances to pocket pieces cated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern binding over slit edges to right side, turn side of garment, turn seam allowances close to seamline. Stitch sleeve underarm pieces for neckline facing and binding for its seam allowance under and stitch on its free edge and ends under and stitch seams and side seams from bottom edge slit include seam allowances. Cut these turned-under edge to slit edges. Press facing to neckline close to its turned- of sleeve to pattern marking for top end pieces on the bias. edges of slit and stitch small dart at bot- under edge. of pocket opening and from pattern mark- tom of slit. Sew gathering stitches along top edges ing for bottom end of pocket opening to SEWING Joining: Stitch shoulder seams and press of skirt panels and gather skirt panels to bottom-hem edge. Pin and stitch pocket pieces right sides together. Fold and press Construction techniques: Stitch seams seam allowances toward bodice back. Pin fit bodice panels. Pin and stitch skirt panels and stitch one edge of neckline facing to to bodice front and back. Fold seam allow- side seam allowances toward bodice front with straight stitch and finish them with and stitch short horizontal rows of rein- serger or zigzag stitch. neckline, right sides together. Clip neckline ances toward bodice panels and topstitch seam allowances along curves and trim seams close to seamline. Sew rows ease- forcing stitching with straight stitch at Back neckline slit: Cut 12 cm long slit them to 7 mm. Understitch seam allow- stitching along sleeve caps and pull up ends of each pocket opening. at neckline of bodice back along center- ances to neckline facing close to seamline. bobbin threads to shape sleeve caps. Stitch Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem and back line. Finish edges of slit with binding Press neckline and stretch outer edge of sleeves to armholes right sides together. sleeve-edge hems as marked on pattern. as follows: Stitch right side of binding to facing slightly. Cut taffeta ribbon into two Pin and stitch straight edges of pocket wrong side of edges of slit, leaving 5 mm equal-length pieces. Machine-baste one pieces to side seam edges of bodice front seam allowances on slit edges at neckline 17. Old-fashioned Beauty dress 98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 58-59

PATTERN PIECES cut 5 5 MATERIALS Shell 1 bodice front 1 - 90-95-95-100-105-110 cm 2 bodice back 2 flock-printed cotton voile (CO), 1 2 3 3 sleeve 2 width 145 cm 4 skirt front 1 - 110-115-120-125-130-135 cm 4 skirt back 2 cotton batiste (CO/PES), Lining width 115 cm 1 bodice front 1 - 20 cm interfacing, 2 bodice back* 2 Vlieseline® G 785 4 4 4 skirt front 1 - 55…60 cm elastic, width 6 mm 4 skirt back 2 - invisible zipper, length 30-30- 5 collar 2+2 30-30-35-35 cm - 6-7 small buttons, ø 12 mm PATTERN SHEET C red

CUTTING between dashed lines (see area shaded edges of sleeves. Cut elastic into two together and with zipper in between, Shell: Cut shell pieces from voile as indi- in grey on small-scale pattern). Fold bodice equal-length pieces. Check that pieces stitching with regular 1 cm seam allow- cated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also front wrong sides together along dashed are the right fit around the child’s arms. ance. Place stitching 5 mm away from two 3.5 cm x 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm strips lines and press folds for decorative tucks. Stitch ends of each elastic together to stitching line that attaches zipper. Stitch for sashes. Topstitch each tuck 6 mm from folded form circles and mark both elastics and center-back seam of lining from bottom edge. Press tucks away from center-front sleeve edges into halves. Machine-baste of zipper placket down to bottom hem Lining: Cut lining pieces from batiste as line. Sew gathering stitches along top elastics to wrong side of sleeve-edge seam and press seam open. indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Cut edges of skirt panels and gather skirt allowances, placing them close to sleeve center-back edges of lining bodice backs Pin necklines of shell and lining right sides panels to fit bodice panels. Pin skirt panels edge. Fold sleeve-edge seam allowances together (with collars in between), turn with 5 mm seam allowance but stitch to bodice panels and stitch waist seams. with elastics to inside of sleeves and stitch them with 1 cm seam allowance. all center-back seam allowances onto lin- Fold seam allowances toward bodice pan- them to sleeves along outer edge of elas- ing and stitch neckline seam. Trim seam els and press seams gently. Finish raw tic, stretching elastic as you sew. SEWING allowances slightly and clip them along center-back edges. Stitch shoulder seams. Joining lining: Stitch shoulder seams. curves. Turn neckline corners side out. Construction techniques: Stitch seams Fold each sash piece in half wrong sides Stitch narrow hems at armholes. Sew Understitch neckline seam allowances to with straight stitch and finish them with together, turn seam allowances on long gathering stitches along top edges of skirt lining, continuing stitching at back neckline serger or zigzag stitch. edges and one end in and stitch edges panels and gather skirt panels to fit bodice as far toward zipper placket as you can. Collar: Cut interfacings for upper collars together. Machine-baste open ends of panels. Pin skirt panels to bodice panels Turn garment right side out and press and fuse them in place. Pin collar pieces sashes to side seam allowances on bodice and stitch waist seams. Stitch side seams. neckline and zipper placket gently. Secure together in pairs (upper collar + under front, placing them close to waist seam. Finish raw center-back edges. armholes of lining to shoulder and side collar) and stitch their outer edges and Pin and machine-baste collars to neckline, Neckline and zipper: Open zipper. seam allowances on shell with a few hand back ends together. Trim seam allowances with right side of under collar facing right Stitch one zipper tape to center-back stitches. around corners and along curved edges. side of neckline; align front ends of collars edge of shell, right sides together. Stitch Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch bot- Understitch seam allowances on curved with center-front mark and place back the other zipper tape in place in the same tom hems of shell and lining as marked collar edges to under collars. Steam collars ends 1 cm away from center-back mark. way. Stitch center-back seam of shell from on pattern. Pin bodice shell and lining gently and machine-baste open edges of Sleeves: Sew gathering stitches along bottom of zipper placket down to bottom together along center-front line from each collar together. sleeve caps and gather sleeves to fit arm- hem and press seam open. neckline to waist and sew buttons at reg- Joining shell: Cut piece of interfacing holes. Stitch sleeves to armholes right Pin and stitch center-back edges of lining ular intervals between decorative tucks and fuse it to wrong side of bodice front sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm to zipper placket edges of shell, right sides on bodice front. seams and side seams. Finish raw bottom

18. Vintage Sailor dress 98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 3, 46, 56-57

6 PATTERN PIECES cut 9 6 bodice front 2 front facing 2 2 bodice back 1 7 7 sleeve 2 4 skirt panel 2 8 collar** 1+1 2 9 collar binding* 1 6 PATTERN SHEET C red MATERIALS - 25…30 cm white and 90-90- 8 CUTTING 95-100-105-130 cm pale-blue Trace pattern piece for front facing from ramie (100% RA), width 140 cm pattern for bodice front. Cut collar from - 20…30 cm interfacing, 4 white and other garment pieces from Vlieseline® G 785 pale-blue fabric as indicated on list of pat- - 150…165 cm taffeta ribbon, 8 tern pieces. *Pattern piece for collar bind- ing includes seam allowances. Cut collar width 6 mm binding on the bias. **Cut under collar - eight small buttons, ø 10 mm with slightly narrower seam allowances than upper collar. >>> SEWING of collar seam allowance, and stitch it in facings. Pin front facings to bodice fronts fronts, pin them in position and machine- Construction techniques: Stitch seams place along both edges. right sides together and stitch their front baste them together along waist seam with straight stitch and finish them with Pin collar pieces right sides together and edges and neck edges together, with collar allowances. serger or zigzag stitch. stitch their outer edges together. Trim in between. Pin and stitch one edge of Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top collar binding to garment’s neckline on Preparation: Cut interfacings for upper seam allowances even and understitch edges of skirt panels and gather skirt pan- them to under collar close to seamline. top of collar, right sides together and with els to fit bodice panels. Pin skirt panels collar and front facings and fuse them in ends of binding slightly overlapping front place (see areas shaded in grey on small- Turn collar right side out. Press collar to bodice panels and stitch waist seams. gently. Machine-baste neckline edges of facings. Trim neckline seam allowances to Fold seam allowances toward bodice pan- scale patterns). Cut pieces of taffeta ribbon 5 mm and clip them along curves. Turn for trims at bottom edges of sleeves: the collar together, making sure that under els and press seams gently. Stitch side collar is slightly narrower than upper col- front neckline corners right side out. Turn seams. Stitch elbow darts on sleeves as first trim to be placed 15 mm from sleeve- seam allowance on free edge of binding edge foldline and the second 6 mm above lar, so that it will lie beautifully on finished marked on pattern. Stitch underarm seams garment. under and stitch turned-under edge to of sleeves. Sew rows ease-stitching along the first one. Stitch trims in place along neckline close to edge. Machine-baste both edges. Neckline and front edges: Stitch shoul- sleeve caps and pull up bobbin threads bottom edges of front facings to waist to shape sleeve caps. Pin and stitch sleeves Collar: Cut piece of taffeta ribbon for der seams and press seam allowances seam allowances. toward bodice back. Pin and machine- to armholes, right sides together. Fold up, trim at outer edge of collar. Shape ribbon Press neckline and front edges gently. press and stitch bottom hem and sleeve- by pressing to match curved edge of col- baste collar to neckline, with right side of under collar facing right side of garment Stitch buttonholes on right bodice front edge hems as marked on pattern. lar. Pin ribbon to upper collar, placing its and sew buttons on both bodice fronts outer edge 2 cm away from outer edge and aligning ends of collar with pattern markings. Finish raw outer edges of front as marked on pattern. Overlap bodice

19. Sunday Visit dress 92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 54

4

9

5 1 2 long edges of trim piece, right sides to- gether, placing straight edges of lace along seamlines on trim piece and stitching as 6 close to straight edge of lace as possible. Turn seam allowances on edges of trim piece to wrong side and press trim gently. CUTTING Pin trim in the middle of bodice front 8 along center-front line and stitch it in Cut trim for front from floral, collar pieces 3 from white and other garment pieces place close to edge. 7 from polka-dot cotton fabric as indicated Collars: Cut interfacings for collar pieces on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern pieces and fuse them in place (make sure to cut for neckline facing and binding for slit interfacings exactly the same size as pat- PATTERN PIECES cut include seam allowances. Cut these pieces tern piece for collar). Turn seam allow- MATERIALS on the bias. ances on front and side edges of each 1 bodice front 1 - 60-60-70-70-75-100-105-110- collar to wrong side and press edges SEWING thoroughly. Trim seam allowances to ap- 2 bodice back 1 115-120 cm polka-dot and 5 cm prox. 5 mm. Pin collars to bodice front, 3 skirt panel 2 floral cotton fabric (CO) Construction techniques: Stitch seams 4 sleeve 2 with straight stitch and finish them with machine-baste their unturned edges to - 20 cm x 30 cm piece of white front neckline and shoulder edges and 5 neckline facing* 1 cotton fabric for collar (CO) serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. stitch their turned and pressed edges to 6 binding for slit* 1 - 10 cm interfacing, bodice front close to edge. 7 pocket 2+2 Vlieseline® G 785 Back neckline slit: Construct slit on 8 collar 2 bodice back following instructions for Joining: Follow instructions for design - 55…115 cm narrow cotton lace no. 16. 9 trim for front 1 - 50 cm gingham ribbon, design no. 16. width 6 mm Trim for front: Cut lace into two equal- length pieces. Stitch pieces of lace to both PATTERN SHEET C green

20. Boat Ahoy sailor shirt 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 3, 56 6

4 3

MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 25…30 cm white and 1 front 1 55-55-55-60-60-70-70 cm 2 back 1 blue ramie (100% RA), 5 3 sleeve 2 width 140 cm - 25…30 cm interfacing, 1 2 4 button band 2 5 collar** 1+1 Vlieseline® G 785 5 6 collar binding* 1 - 110…125 cm taffeta ribbon, width 6 mm - three buttons, ø 15 mm PATTERN SHEET C orange CUTTING pieces of taffeta ribbon for trims at outer shoulder seams and press seam allow- ing close to edge of button band. Overlap Cut collar from white and other garment back edge of collar. Pin ribbons to collar, ances toward back panel. button bands with left band on top, pin pieces from blue fabric as indicated on placing the first ribbon 15 mm from outer Pin and stitch collar to neckline, with them together and machine-baste their list of pattern pieces. *Pattern piece for edge of collar seam allowance and the right side of under collar facing right side bottom edges together. Stitch triangle, collar binding includes seam allowances. second 6 mm above the first one, and of garment and aligning ends of collar formed at bottom of placket when clipping Cut collar binding on the bias. **Cut un- stitch them in place. with center-front marks on button bands. seam allowances, to button bands carefully. der collar with slightly narrower seam Pin collar pieces right sides together and Turn seam allowances on non-interfaced Finish raw bottom edges of button bands allowances than upper collar. stitch their outer edges together. Trim edges of button bands to wrong side. together. corners, trim seam allowances even and Place interfaced and non-interfaced half Joining: Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch SEWING understitch them to under collar close of each button band right sides together sleeve underarm seams and side seams Construction techniques: Stitch seams to seamline. Turn collar right side out. and stitch neckline edges of button bands. as far as side vents. Clip seam allowances with straight stitch and finish them with Press collar gently. Machine-baste neckline Pin and stitch collar binding to neckline to stitching at top ends of vents. Fold and serger or zigzag stitch. edges of collar together, making sure that seam on top of collar, right sides together stitch narrow hems (7 mm +7 mm) at under collar is slightly smaller than upper and with ends of binding slightly overlap- edges of vents. Stitch bar-tacks at top Preparation: Cut interfacings for upper collar, so that it will lie beautifully on ping button bands. Trim neckline seam ends of vents with narrow, short zigzag. collar and button bands and fuse them finished garment. allowances to 5 mm and clip them along Stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems in place (see areas shaded in grey on curves. Turn neckline corners side out. as marked on pattern. small-scale patterns). Front placket and neckline: Press folds on button bands as marked on Turn seam allowance on free edge of col- Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on outer Collar: Cut pieces of taffeta ribbon for pattern. Pin and stitch interfaced edges lar binding to wrong side and stitch button band, placing them at regular inter- trims at outer front and side edges of of button bands to placket edges on front turned-under edge to neckline close to vals along center-front line. Sew buttons collar. Pin ribbons to upper collar, placing panel, right sides together, ending stitching edge. on inner button band. their outer edge 15 mm away from outer at seamline along bottom edge of button Pin non-interfaced edges of button bands edge of collar seam allowance, and stitch band. Clip diagonally to each row of stitch- carefully to placket edges and stitch them them in place along both edges. Cut two ing at bottom corners of placket. Stitch in place from right side of garment, stitch-

21. Row Boat linen Bermudas 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 3, 56

5

4 6 2

1 3 PATTERN PIECES cut

1 pants front 2 2 back yoke 2 3 pants back 2 MATERIALS 4 front pocket 2 - 55-55-60-60-70-70-75 cm linen 5 facing for opening (LI), width 145 cm edge of pocket* 2 - piece of interfacing, 6 waistband 1 Vlieseline® H 180 7 bottom-leg cuff 2 - 50…55 cm elastic, width 3 cm 7 - two buttons, ø 13 mm PATTERN SHEET C blue

CUTTING allowance along curved edge of pocket. Stitch side seams of pants from waist ance on free edge of waistband under, Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- Make cardboard template with pattern edge to markings for bottom-leg vents. pin turned-under edge to waist edge and cated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern piece for pocket. Lay pocket on an ironing Fold side seam allowances toward pants stitch close to edge. Stitch another row piece for facing for opening edge of pocket board, right side down, and lay template backs and topstitch side seams close to of stitching through all layers in the middle includes seam allowances. Cut pocket on wrong side of pocket. Pull up bobbin seamline from waist edge to bottom edge of waistband, stretching elastic as you facings on the bias. Cut also 3 cm x thread of ease-stitching, turn seam allow- of front pocket. Stitch narrow hems at sew. Turn seam allowances at free ends 40 cm strip for belt loops. ance on curved pocket edge over edge edges of bottom-leg vents. Stitch bar- of belt loops to wrong side and stitch of template to wrong side and press tacks at top ends of vents. ends to top edge of waistband. Steam SEWING pocket edge thoroughly. Pin pockets to Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of pants waist to shrink elastic back to its pants fronts as marked on pattern, aligning original length. Construction techniques: Stitch seams belt loop strip, fold strip in three and their side edges with side seam allowances stitch two parallel rows of topstitching Bottom edges of legs: Fold bottom- with straight stitch and finish them with and top edges with waist seam allowances, serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams in the middle of strip. Cut strip into five leg cuff in half right sides together and and stitch them in place with two parallel equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch one stitch both ends as well as top edges of and edges with two parallel rows of rows of stitching. stitching unless otherwise instructed. end of each belt loop to pants waist as button overlap portion as far as notch. Joining: Pin and stitch back yokes to shown in design sketch, right sides to- Trim corners and turn cuff right side out. Preparation: Cut interfacings for areas pants backs, right sides together. Fold gether. Fold cuff in half wrong sides together and shaded in grey on small-scale patterns seam allowances toward yokes and top- press. Pin and stitch right side of inner and fuse them in place. Waistline: Stitch ends of waistband to- stitch seams. Pin pants fronts and backs gether to form circle. Pin and stitch right half of cuff to wrong side of bottom edge Front pockets: Stitch facing to opening right sides together and stitch leg inseams. side of inner waistband half to wrong side of leg, placing button overlap portion on edge of pocket, right sides together. Un- Fold seam allowances toward pants backs of pants waist. Measure and cut piece of pants front. Turn seam allowance on free derstitch seam allowances to facing close and topstitch seams. Stitch crotch seam elastic to fit the child’s waist (child’s waist edge of cuff under, pin edge to bottom to seamline. Fold facing to wrong side of (note that stitching line runs along outer measurement minus 5-6 cm) and stitch edge of leg and stitch it in place close to pocket, turn seam allowance on its free edges of mock fly extensions). Fold fly its ends together to form circle. Mark edge. Topstitch around bottom-leg cuffs edge under, pin facing to pocket and stitch extensions toward left pants front and elastic into quarters. Lay elastic over inner close to edge. Stitch buttonholes and sew it in place close to turned-under edge. stitch their outer edges to pants front half of waistband, aligning quarter marks buttons on cuffs as marked on pattern. Sew another row of topstitching close with two parallel rows of stitching. Top- with center-front, center-back and side to opening edge of pocket. stitch crotch seam from bottom of mock seams, and machine-baste elastic to waist- fly to back waist. Sew row of ease-stitching within seam band at quarter marks. Turn seam allow- 22. Summer Pull-ons colored jeans 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 9, 52-54

7 2 CUTTING stitch pockets to pants backs as marked Cut pocket facings from lightweight cotton on pattern. fabric and other garment pieces from Joining: Pin and stitch back yokes to twill as indicated on list of pattern pieces. pants backs, right sides together. Fold 1 3 Cut also 3 cm x 40 cm strip for belt seam allowances toward pants backs and loops. topstitch seams. Pin pants fronts and backs right sides together and stitch leg 5 SEWING inseams. Fold seam allowances toward Construction techniques: Stitch seams pants fronts and topstitch seams. Stitch with straight stitch and finish them with crotch seam (note that stitching line runs serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams along outer edges of mock fly extensions). 4 and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- Topstitch center-front edge of left mock- ing using contrast-color thread unless fly extension close to edge. Fold fly exten- otherwise instructed. sions toward left pants front and stitch their outer edges to pants front with two 6 Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket parallel rows of stitching. Topstitch crotch facing to edge of pocket opening on pants seam from bottom of mock fly to back front, right sides together. Clip seam allow- waist. ances on curved edge of pocket opening PATTERN PIECES cut and understitch them to pocket facing. Pin and stitch pants side seams. Fold seam Fold pocket facing to wrong side and top- allowances toward pants backs and top- MATERIALS stitch edge of pocket opening. Pin pocket stitch seams close to seamline from waist 1 pants front 2 to bottom edge of front-hip pocket. - 60-60-65-70-75-80-90 cm piece to pocket facing right sides together 2 back yoke 2 colored cotton-blend stretch and stitch bottom of pocket. Machine- Belt loops, Waistline: Follow instruc- 3 pants back 2 twill (CO/EL), stretch/ baste edges of pockets to waist and side tions for design no. 21. 4 pocket piece 2 recovery 15-20% seam allowances. Finishing: Stitch hems at bottom edges 5 pocket facing 2 - 25 cm lightweight cotton fabric Back pockets: Finish raw opening edges of legs as marked on pattern. Attach jeans 6 back pocket 2 (CO) for pocket facings of pockets. Fold and press hems at opening studs to edges of front-hip pocket open- 7 waistband 1 - 50…55 cm elastic, width 3 cm edges of pockets as marked on pattern. ings, placing them close to side seams, - four jeans studs Turn and press seam allowances on other and to outer top corners of back pockets. PATTERN SHEET black pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and top- C

23. Short Sleeve raglan T-shirt 74-80-86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 53-54

3

CUTTING Pin trims to sleeves as marked on pattern 4 and stitch them in place with straight Cut neckline binding from ribbing and 1 2 other garment pieces from single jersey stitch along both edges. as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back panels right sides together and stitch SEWING raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm Construction techniques: Stitch seams seams and side seams. Leave garment inside out. with serger or with overedge stretch PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS stitch on regular sewing machine. Neckline: Finish neckline following in- - 40-45-45-50-50-55-55-55-60- Sleeve trims: Cut 2 cm wide trim strips structions for design no. 9. 1 front 1 60 cm cotton single jersey for sleeves from contrast-color pieces of Finishing: Fold up and press bottom 2 back 1 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% single jersey (measure required length hem and sleeve-edge hems. Stitch hems 3 sleeve 2 - pieces of striped and solid-color on pattern and add seam allowances). with twin needle on regular sewing ma- 4 neckline binding 1 cotton single jersey for trims Turn and press seam allowances on long chine, or with double or triple coverstitch - 6 cm ribbing (CO/EL) edges of trim strips to wrong side (finished on serger. width of trims should be approx. 1 cm). PATTERN SHEET A black

24. Starry Print V-neck T-shirt 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 12-13

6 PATTERN PIECES cut 3 MATERIALS 5 front 1 - 30-35-35-40-40-45-45-50 cm For appliqué: 5 lower front panel 1 2 back 1 printed, 45-50-50-55-55-60-60- - piece of double-sided fusible web, 5 2 65 cm green and 15…20 cm blue Vlieseline® Vliesofix 3 sleeve 2 organic-cotton single jersey - piece of tear-away backing, 6 neckline binding 1 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% Vlieseline® Stickvlies star appliqué - 6 cm ribbing (CO/EL) PATTERN SHEET B black CUTTING scrap of single jersey and cut appliqué flatlock stitch on serger. Stitch shoulder Cut up pattern piece for front into two shape out along its outlines. Remove seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch separate pattern pieces for front panel paper backing from wrong side of shape sleeve underarm seams and side seams. and lower front panel. Cut neckline binding and fuse shape to right side of left sleeve. Leave garment inside out. from ribbing, front panel from printed Pin piece of tear-away backing to wrong Neckline: Finish neckline following in- single jersey, lower front panel and back side of sleeve under appliqué motif. Stitch structions for design no. 9 (align seam on panel from green single jersey and sleeves appliqué shape in place close to edge with binding with center-back mark on back from blue single jersey as indicated on straight stitch. Using short stitch length, panel). Stitch small dart at center-front list of pattern pieces. stitch around shape twice and backstitch point on neckline binding. to finish. Remove tear-away backing. Finishing: Fold and press sleeve-edge SEWING Joining: Pin front panel and lower front hems and bottom hem. Stitch sleeve-edge Construction techniques: Stitch seams panel right sides together and stitch with hems with decorative overedge stitch on with serger or with overedge stretch straight stitch. Press seam open, trim regular sewing machine or with flatlock stitch on regular sewing machine. seam allowances if necessary and top- stitch on serger. Stitch bottom hem with stitch seam from right side with deco- Star appliqué: Trace appliqué motif twin needle on regular sewing machine rative overedge stitch on regular sewing or with double or triple coverstitch on from pattern sheet on double-sided fusible machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch) or with web. Iron fusible web onto wrong side of serger.

25. Knickerbocker poplin Bermudas 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 11-13

5 6 9 PATTERN PIECES cut 2 1 pants front upper pants panel 2 4 8 1 knee panel 2 3 bottom-leg panel 2 2 back yoke 2 MATERIALS 3 pants back 2 - 50-55-60-60-65-65-70 cm 4 front pocket 2 cotton poplin (CO) or lightweight 5 facing for opening edge outerwear fabric of pocket* 2 - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 6 waistband 1 - piece of interfacing, 8 back pocket 2 Vlieseline® H 180 9 pocket flap 2+2 - 50…55 cm elastic, width 3 cm 10 bottom-leg cuff 2 - four open-ring snap fasteners, 10 ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET C blue

CUTTING Pants front: Pin and stitch upper pants Pin pocket-flap pieces right sides together extensions toward left pants front and Cut up pattern for pants front into three panels and bottom-leg panels to knee in pairs (inner + outer) and stitch their stitch their outer edges to pants front separate pattern pieces. Cut bottom-leg panels, right sides together. Fold seam outer edges. Trim corners, press seams with two parallel rows of stitching. Top- cuffs from ribbing and other garment allowances toward knee panels and top- open and turn flaps right side out. Topstitch stitch crotch seam from bottom of mock pieces from poplin as indicated on list of stitch seams. Construct front pockets outer edges of flaps using presser-foot fly to back waist. pattern pieces. *Pattern piece for facing following instructions for design no. 21. edge as guide and machine-baste their Pin and stitch pants side seams. Fold seam for opening edge of pocket includes seam Back pockets: Stitch hems at opening open edges together at the same time. allowances toward pants backs and top- allowances. Cut pocket facings on the edges of pockets. Sew row of ease- Machine-baste flaps to top edges of pants stitch seams close to seamline from waist bias. Cut also 3 cm x 40 cm strip for belt stitching within seam allowance along back panels, placing them above pockets. to bottom edge of front pocket. loops. bottom edge of pocket. Make cardboard Attach snap fasteners to pockets and pocket flaps as marked on pattern. Belt loops, Waistline: Follow instruc- template with pattern piece for pocket. tions for design no. 21. SEWING Lay pocket on an ironing board, right side Joining: Pin and stitch back yokes to Bottom edges of legs: Stitch side edges Construction techniques: Stitch seams down, and lay template on wrong side of pants backs, right sides together. Fold pocket. Pull up bobbin thread of ease- seam allowances toward yokes and top- of each bottom-leg cuff right sides to- with straight stitch and finish them with gether to form circles. Fold cuffs in half, serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams stitching, turn pocket seam allowances stitch seams. Pin pants fronts and backs over edge of template to wrong side and right sides together and stitch leg inseams. wrong sides together. Pin and stitch cuffs and edges with two parallel rows of to bottom edges of legs right sides to- stitching unless otherwise instructed. press pocket edges thoroughly. Pin and Fold seam allowances toward pants backs topstitch pockets to pants backs as and topstitch seams. Stitch crotch seam gether, stretching cuffs as you sew. Fold Preparation: Cut interfacings for outer marked on pattern. (note that stitching line runs along outer seam allowances toward pants panels and pocket-flap pieces and fuse them in place. edges of mock fly extensions). Fold fly topstitch cuff seams.

26. Rest Piece hooded sweat jacket 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 52-54

MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 65-70-70-75-75-80-80 cm of 5 pieces of cotton single jersey 3 1 front 2 (CO/EL) in various colors, 2 back 2 stretch/recovery 30% 2 3 sleeve 2+2 - 25 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 4 1 4 hood 2 - piece of interfacing, 5 pocket band 2 Vlieseline® G 785 6 6 pocket piece 2 - 125…150 cm fusible stay tape, 7 hem band 1 Vlieseline® Formband 8 sleeve cuff 2 - open-end zipper, length 33-35- 7 8 37-39-41-43-45 cm PATTERN SHEET D red together with straight stitch, press seam sleeve-edge hems as marked on pattern. open, trim seam allowances if necessary Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve and topstitch seam from right side with underarm seams and side seams. Fold decorative overedge stitch on regular underarm seam allowances to one side sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch) and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge or with flatlock stitch on serger. Stitch hems. Stitch hem band to garment’s bot- sleeve-edge hems and bottom hem with tom edge using plain seam with flatlock decorative overedge stitch on regular topstitching. Fold up, press and stitch bot- sewing machine with flatlock stitch on tom hem as marked on pattern. serger. See general instructions for fin- Zipper: Open zipper. Pin and machine- ishing edges with binding on p. 45. baste one zipper tape to garment’s front Preparation: Cut interfacings for pocket edge wrong sides together, with front- openings and pocket bands and fuse them edge seam allowance a couple of milli- in place (see areas shaded in grey on small meters in from outer edge of zipper tape. scale patterns). Cut pieces of stay tape Fold zipper tape in position to right side for stabilizing shoulder edges on back of front panel and stitch it in place close panel and center-front edges (measure to its outer edge (use sewing thread that also 2 cm wide strip from single jersey required lengths on pattern pieces for matches zipper). Stitch the other zipper for neckline binding. Cut 3.5 cm wide back and for front and hem band and add tape to the other front edge in the same binding strip from ribbing for finishing seam allowances). Fuse stay tapes to right way. CUTTING face edge of hood. If you use a binder side of front panels and hem band (on attachment on your coverstitch machine Hood: Stitch hood panels together using Preshrink all pieces of fabric before cut- this design, zipper is applied on right side plain seam with flatlock topstitching. Finish ting. Draw a horizontal panel seamline to attach the binding, cut the binding strip of garment) and to wrong side of shoulder in the width that fits the binder. face edge of hood with binding. Pin hood on the pattern for sleeve and cut up the seam allowances on back panel. to garment’s neckline right sides together pattern into two separate pattern pieces SEWING Front pockets: Construct pockets on and stitch it in place with serger. Pin and along the drawn line; the position of the front panels following instructions for stitch one edge of neckline binding to seamline depends on the size of the pieces Construction techniques: Stitch sleeve design no. 10. neckline seam allowance on hood side. of jersey at your disposal. underarm seams and side seams as well Joining: Stitch panel seams on sleeves, Turn seam allowance on other edge and Cut hem band and sleeve cuffs from rib- as sleeves to armholes with serger or ends of binding under, pin turned-under with overedge stretch stitch on regular center-back seam and shoulder seams as bing and other garment pieces from pieces plain seams with flatlock topstitching. edges to neckline and stitch binding in of single jersey as indicated on list of sewing machine. Stitch other seams as place close to edge. plain seams with flatlock topstitching as Stitch sleeve cuffs to sleeves using plain pattern pieces. Do not add seam allow- seams with flatlock topstitching. Stitch ances to face edges of hood panels. Cut follows: Stitch garment pieces right sides

27. Cool Dude denim jacket 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 10-11 3 1 4 2 PATTERN PIECES cut e d 1 front yoke 2 a b c 2 front center-front panel a 2 center panel b 2 side front panel c 2 3 back yoke 1 11 4 back center-back panel d 1 side back panel e 2 10 5 upper sleeve 2 5 6 6 under sleeve 2 9 7 sleeve cuff 2 8 collar 1+1 MATERIALS 9 pocket piece 2 - 70-75-80-90-95-95-100 cm stretch denim (CO/PES/EL), width 130 cm 8 10 pocket flap 2+2 - 20 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H® 180 11 hem band 1 - 10-12 jeans buttons, ø 15 mm 8 - contrast-color topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 7 PATTERN SHEET D blue

CUTTING seam allowances away from center panel folds on front facings as marked on pat- of topstitching on placket. Stitch horizontal Cut up patterns for front and back into and topstitch seams. Clip to stitching line tern. row of back and forth stitching at top separate pattern pieces (a-e). Preshrink at two points at top edge of each front Back: Pin and stitch center-back and side end of each sleeve placket. Pin and stitch fabric before cutting. Cut all garment panel as marked on pattern and stitch back panels right sides together. Fold sleeves to armholes, fold seam allowances pieces from fabric as indicated on list of hem (1 cm + 1 cm) between clips for seam allowances toward center-back pan- toward body of garment and topstitch pattern pieces. pocket opening. Finish raw edges of pocket el and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch back seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and pieces. Pin pocket piece to wrong side of yoke to back panel right sides together. side seams. SEWING front panel and stitch it in place close to Fold seam allowances toward yoke and Collar: Pin collar pieces right sides to- edge. Reinforce corners of pocket opening topstitch seam. Pin front and back to- gether and stitch their ends and outer Construction techniques: Stitch seams with rows of back and forth stitching. with straight stitch and finish them with gether and stitch shoulder seams. Fold edges. Trim corners, press seams open serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams Pin pocket flap pieces right sides together seam allowances toward back yoke and and turn collar right side out. Topstitch and edges with two parallel rows of in pairs and stitch their bottom and side topstitch seams. outer edges and ends of collar. Clip to stitching unless otherwise instructed. edges. Trim corners, turn pocket flaps Joining: Stitch hem (1 cm + 1 cm) at stitching line at bottom edge of upper right side out and topstitch their edges. placket edge on each under sleeve with collar at points 15 cm from each end of Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for upper Stitch buttonholes on flaps as marked on collar. Pin collar to garment’s neckline, collar, front facings, sleeve cuffs and hem two parallel rows of stitching. Pin upper pattern. Stitch pocket flaps along their sleeve and under sleeve right sides to- with under collar and garment right sides band and fuse them in place (see areas open edges to top edges of front panels, together and aligning ends of collar with shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). gether and stitch back seam of each placing them above pockets. sleeve. Stitch hem (1 cm + 1 cm) at placket center-front marks. Stitch collar to neck- Front and pockets: Pin and stitch Pin and stitch front yokes to front panels edge on each upper sleeve with two par- line, stitching both upper collar and under center-front and side front panels to right sides together. Fold seam allowances allel rows of stitching. Topstitch back collar to neck edge at front but only center panel right sides together. Fold toward yokes and topstitch seams. Press seams of sleeves from top edge to end stitching under collar to neck edge be- tween clips. >>> Fold front facings to right side of front Sleeve cuffs: Fold sleeve cuffs in half, Hem band: Fold hem band in half, wrong Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew panels and stitch their neckline edges to wrong sides together, and press. Pin and sides together, and press. Pin and stitch buttons on hem band and sleeve cuffs as garment’s neckline (turn seam allowances stitch non-interfaced edge of cuff to sleeve non-interfaced edge of hem band to gar- marked on pattern. Stitch buttonholes at on inner edges of facings in position be- edge, with right side of cuff facing wrong ment’s bottom-hem edge, with its right front edge, placing top buttonhole 2 cm fore stitching). Turn seam allowance on side of sleeve. Fold cuff in half, right sides side facing wrong side of garment. Fold below neckline seam, lowest buttonhole bottom edge of upper collar under, pin together, and stitch its side edges. Turn hem band in half, right sides together, and 3 cm above top edge of hem band and turned-under edge to neckline and stitch cuff right side out. Turn seam allowance stitch its ends. Turn hem band right side the rest at regular intervals between close to edge. Pin front facings to front on other edge of cuff to wrong side, pin out. Turn seam allowance on other edge these. Attach buttons to the other front panels carefully and stitch them in place cuff edge to sleeve edge and stitch it in of hem band to wrong side, pin edge to edge. Attach buttons to pockets. close to edge. Topstitch front edges of place close to edge. Topstitch around cuff bottom-hem seamline and stitch it in front panels at the same time close to close to edge at the same time. place close to edge. Topstitch around hem edge. band close to edge at the same time.

28. Owl Tree jersey romper 110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 50

3 MATERIALS - 65-70-70-75-80-85-90 cm printed 1 2 organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% PATTERN PIECES cut - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width 90 cm 1 front 2 - 100…130 cm fusible stay tape, 2 back 2 Vlieseline® Formband 3 sleeve 2 - invisible zipper, length 39-40-42- 4 4 pocket 2 43-45-46-47 cm - 55…65 cm elastic, width 10 mm PATTERN SHEET D green CUTTING hems with twin needle on regular sewing front panels, aligning their straight edges waist (waist measurement minus 4... Cut garment pieces from single jersey as machine or with serger coverstitch. See with side seam allowances, and stitch in 5 cm) and mark it into quarters. Stitch indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do general instructions for finishing edges place close to edge. elastic in place along both edges, aligning not add seam allowances to neckline and with binding on p. 45. Joining: Stitch shoulder seams as well as quarter marks with center-back and side bottom edges of sleeves. Cut 3.5 cm wide Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for center-back seam from neckline to crotch. seams and stretching elastic evenly as you binding strips from ribbing for finishing center-front edges (from neckline to Finish neckline and bottom edges of sew. neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If notch for zipper placket) and for shoulder sleeves with binding. Stitch sleeves to Open zipper. Stitch one zipper half to you use a binder attachment on your edges of back panels (measure required armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams center-front edge, right sides together. coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add and side seams. Fold underarm seam Fold end of zipper tape over neckline cut the binding strips in the width that seam allowances). Fuse stay tapes to allowances to one side and stitch them binding to wrong side, turn zipper right fits the binder. wrong side of seam allowances. flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Finish way up and stitch across neckline binding. Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at raw center-front edges. Stitch the other zipper half in place in SEWING opening edges of pockets as marked on Mark placement line for elastic on front the same way. Stitch center-front seam Construction techniques: Stitch seams pattern. Turn seam allowances on center- and back panels (notches at center-front, from bottom of zipper placket to crotch. with serger or with overedge stretch front-side edge and bottom edge of each center-back and side seams). Measure Stitch leg inseams. Stitch hems at bottom stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch pocket to wrong side, pin pockets to and cut piece of elastic to fit the child’s edges of legs as marked on pattern.

29. Watermelon top 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60-61

MATERIALS 1 PATTERN PIECES cut - 55-55-60-60-65-65-70-70 cm viscose single jersey (CV/EL), 1 front 1 stretch/recovery 30% 1 back 1 - 25…30 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon® PATTERN SHEET D orange CUTTING SEWING of tape on pattern piece for back and add line binding. Finish armholes with binding. Cut garment pieces from single jersey as Construction techniques: Stitch seams seam allowances). Machine-baste clear Stitch side seams, fold side seam allow- indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do with serger or with overedge stretch elastic tapes to right side of shoulder ances to one side and stitch them flat not add seam allowances to neckline and stitch on regular sewing machine. See seam allowances on back panel (on fin- across armhole bindings. Fold up and armholes. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips general instructions for finishing edges ished garment, tapes will be concealed press bottom hem and stitch it with from single jersey for finishing neckline with binding on p. 45. between seam allowances). serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. and armholes. If you use a binder attach- Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut two Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish ment on your coverstitch machine to pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder attach the bindings, cut the binding strips shoulder seams (measure required length seam, fold shoulder seam allowances to in the width that fits the binder. one side and stitch them flat across neck- 30. ZigZag jersey skirt 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60-61

MATERIALS - 55-55-60-60-65-65-70-75 cm PATTERN PIECES cut printed cotton single jersey 1 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 1 skirt panel 2 - 200…250 cm clear elastic tape, 2 hem frill 2 Framilon®, width 5 mm - 55…65 cm elastic, width 2 cm 2 PATTERN SHEET D lilac CUTTING tape for gathering hem frills; measure re- or with twin needle on regular sewing center-back marks as well as with side Cut garment pieces from single jersey as quired length on bottom edge of skirt machine. seams and placing top edge of elastic indicated on list of pattern pieces. Note panel and add seam allowances. Mark Waist: Finish raw waist edge and press along casing foldline. Fold casing allowance that you can cut the garment pieces either both clear elastic tapes and hem frills into fold for casing at it as marked on pattern. with elastic to wrong side, pin it to on the grain or across the grain. quarters. Gather hem frills by stitching Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit garment and stitch close to bottom edge clear elastic tapes to their top-edge seam the child’s waist and stitch its ends togeth- of elastic. SEWING allowances, stretching tape as you sew er to form circle. Mark center-front and Tip! This design can also be made from and aligning quarter marks. Construction techniques: Stitch seams center-back points at waist edge and mark woven fabric. Stitch the seams with a with serger or with overedge stretch Joining: Stitch frills to bottom edges of elastic into quarters. Machine-baste elastic straight stitch and finish them with a stitch on regular sewing machine. skirt panels right sides together. Stitch to waist casing allowance with vertical serger or zigzag stitch. Gather the hem side seams. Fold up and press bottom rows of stitching at quarter marks, aligning frills by sewing rows of gathering stitches Hem frill: Cut pieces of clear elastic hem and stitch it with serger coverstitch quarter marks first with center-front and along their top edges.

31. Ola de Calor sundress 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 48

CUTTING stitch their ends to ends of armhole bind- Cut garment pieces from single jersey as ings at top edge of back panel. Fold seam indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut allowances of binding toward body of 4.5 cm wide binding strips from ribbing garment and stitch them to armholes. 1 2 for finishing neckline and armholes as Fold up and press bottom hem and stitch well as a strip for making belt. If you use it with serger coverstitch or with twin a binder attachment on your coverstitch needle on regular sewing machine. machine to attach the bindings, cut the Belt: Make belt with strip of ribbing, using binding strips in the width that fits the binder attachment on serger or stitching binder. it on regular sewing machine (fold strip in three and stitch in the middle of strip SEWING with suitable decorative overedge stitch, Construction techniques: Stitch seams stretching strip as you sew). Turn ends of with serger or with overedge stretch belt under and stitch. stitch on regular sewing machine. See Cut 3 cm x 16 cm strip from contrast- MATERIALS general instructions for finishing edges color single jersey for belt loops. Fold - 70-75-75-80-85-90-90 cm striped with binding on p. 45. strip in half right sides together and stitch Joining: Finish top edges (= necklines) long edges together. Turn strip right side PATTERN PIECES cut cotton single jersey (CO/EL), out and cut it into four equal-length stretch/recovery 30% of front and back panels with binding. Stitch side seams. Finish armholes with pieces. Stitch belt loops to waist as marked - 20 cm ribbing (CO/EL), on pattern: stitch top end of loop to 1 front 1 width 90 cm binding and leave 15...20 cm of extra bind- 2 back 1 ing extending from armholes on front garment with straight stitch, right sides - small piece of contrast-color panel for shoulder straps. Adjust length together, fold loop down right side up single jersey for belt loops of shoulder straps to fit the child and and slipstitch bottom end to garment by PATTERN SHEET black hand. Thread belt through loops. D

32. Luz del Sol viscose jersey top 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 2, 64-65

4 1

2 3 MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 55-55-60-60-65-65-70 cm printed 1 front yoke 2 viscose single jersey (CV/EL), 2 front 1 stretch/recovery 30% 3 back 1 - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 4 sleeve 2 - 35…45 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband PATTERN SHEET E red CUTTING SEWING Stabilizing shoulder and yoke seams: left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with Cut garment pieces from single jersey as Construction techniques: Stitch seams Cut pieces of stay tape for stabilizing binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do with serger or with overedge stretch shoulder and yoke seams (see edges seam allowances to one side and stitch not add seam allowances to neckline. Cut stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). them flat across neckline binding. Fold 3.5 cm wide binding strip from ribbing bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with Measure required lengths of tape on pat- up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges for finishing neckline. If you use a binder serger coverstitch or with twin needle tern pieces and add seam allowances. of sleeves as marked on pattern. Stitch attachment on your coverstitch machine on regular sewing machine. See general Fuse tapes to wrong side of seam allow- sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve under- to attach the binding, cut the binding strip instructions for finishing edges with bind- ances. arm seams and side seams. Fold side seam in the width that fits the binder. ing on p. 45. Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top allowances to one side and stitch them edges of front panel and gather edges to flat across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, fit yokes. Stitch yokes to front panel. Stitch press and stitch bottom hem.

33. Chica Ciclista leggings 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62, 65

1 2

SEWING MATERIALS Construction techniques: Stitch seams - 45-50-55-55-60-60-65 cm (short with serger or with overedge stretch leggings) or 65-70-75-75-80-80- stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch 85 cm (long leggings) heavyweight hems with twin needle on regular sewing viscose jersey (CV/EL), machine or with serger coverstitch. stretch/recovery 20-30% Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right - 60...70 cm elastic, width 2 cm sides together and stitch leg inseams. Stitch crotch seam. Stitch side seams. Fold CUTTING up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges of legs as marked on pattern. Choose the pattern size according to the PATTERN PIECES cut child’s hip measurement and trace the Waistline: Apply elastic to waist follow- bottom-leg line from the pattern size that ing instructions for design no. 30. 1 pants front 2 corresponds to the child’s height. Cut 2 pants back 2 garment pieces from jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. PATTERN SHEET E blue

34. Movimiento tank top and tunic 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62-65

MATERIALS A B 1 2 1 2 Tank top - 65-70-70-75-75-80-80 cm printed viscose single jersey (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 25 cm (sizes 128-146 cm) or 30 cm (sizes 152-170 cm) clear elastic tape, Framilon®, width 5 mm PATTERN PIECES cut Tunic - 70-70-75-80-85-85-90 cm striped 1 front 1 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), 2 back 1 stretch/recovery 30% - piece of interfacing for stabilizing PATTERN SHEET E black buttonhole CUTTING Tank top and tunic: Cut 3.5 cm wide Machine-baste tapes to side seam edges seam. Fold seam allowances to one side Tank top: Trace side seams and bottom binding strips from single jersey for finish- on front, placing them between pattern and stitch them flat across neckline bind- hemline of tank top observing markings ing neckline and armholes. If you use a markings and stretching them slightly as ing. Finish armholes with binding. Stitch on small-scale patterns (grey lines on pat- binder attachment on your coverstitch you sew. side seams (stretch portion of side seam tern sheet). Cut garment pieces from machine to attach the bindings, cut the Tunic, preparation: Fuse piece of inter- edge on front panel where clear elastic single jersey as indicated on list of pattern binding strips in the width that fits the facing to wrong side of front at buttonhole tape was stitched as you sew). Fold side pieces. Do not add seam allowances to binder. marking. Stitch buttonhole as marked on seam allowances to one side and stitch neckline and armholes. pattern. Finish raw outer edges of draw- them flat across armhole bindings. Fold SEWING up, press and stitch bottom hem. Tunic: Cut garment pieces from single string casing strips and stitch narrow jersey as indicated on list of pattern Construction techniques: Stitch seams hems at their ends. Pin and stitch casing Tunic, finishing: Stitch ends of drawstring pieces. Do not add seam allowances to with serger or with overedge stretch strips to wrong side of front and back, strips together. Stretch drawstring slightly; neckline and armholes. Cut also 2 cm stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch aligning their top edges with waistline since the drawstring was cut in selvage wide strips for drawstring casings on front bottom hem with serger coverstitch or marking and placing their open ends direction, its edges will curl in when and back (measure required lengths at with twin needle on regular sewing ma- 15 mm away from outer edge of side stretched and need not be finished. Thread waistline markings on pattern pieces for chine. See general instructions for finishing seam allowance (note that long edges of drawstring into casing. front and back). Cut two 2 cm x 50... edges with binding on p. 45. casing strips are not turned under). 60 cm strips in selvage direction for draw- Tank top, preparation: Cut clear elastic Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish string. tape into two equal-length pieces. neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder 35. Relajarse miniskirt 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62-63

6 MATERIALS 4 5 PATTERN PIECES cut - 35-40-40-40-45-50-50 cm stretch sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), 1 skirt front 2 stretch/recovery 20% 2 skirt back 2 - 6 cm contrast-color jersey or 3 3 side trim 2 poplin for side trims 1 4 front pocket 2 - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 2 5 back pocket 2 - 60...70 cm elastic, width 3.5 cm 6 waistband 1 - two jeans studs, ø 8 mm, Prym - contrast-color topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 PATTERN SHEET E green CUTTING two parallel rows of stitching. Pin pockets Topstitch center-front seam from bottom wrong sides together, pin its free edge to Cut waistband from ribbing, side trims to skirt fronts and machine-baste their of mock fly to bottom hem at the same waist edge and stitch it in place with flat- from contrast-color fabric and other gar- top edges to waist edges and their side time. Stitch bar-tacks on mock fly as lock stitch on serger or with decorative ment pieces from sweatshirt knit as indi- edges to side seam edges of skirt fronts. shown in design sketch. Stitch and top- overedge stitch on regular sewing machi- cated on list of pattern pieces. Do not Machine-baste curved pocket edges to stitch center-back seam. Pin and stitch ne. Insert elastic into waistband. Stitch add seam allowances to curved outer skirt panels and stitch along edges with side trims to side edges of skirt fronts ends of elastic together to form circle. edges of front pockets. Cut also 3 cm x flatlock stitching. and backs, right sides together. Fold seam Fold drawstring strip in three wrong sides 100...120 cm strip from sweatshirt knit Back pockets: Fold and press hems at allowances toward side trims and top- together and press. Stitch row of double for drawstring. opening edges of pockets and secure stitch seams. Fold up, press and stitch coverstitching on serger in the middle of them in place with two bar-tacks (= row bottom hem. strip. Turn ends of drawstring under and SEWING of narrow, short zigzag stitching) as shown Waistband: Stitch 18 mm long button- stitch. Thread drawstring into waistband Construction techniques: Stitch seams in design sketch. Turn seam allowances hole on waistband as marked on pattern, through opening at center-back and thread with straight stitch and finish them with on other pocket edges to wrong side, pin placing midpoint of buttonhole at center- its ends out through buttonhole on front. serger or zigzag stitch unless otherwise pockets to skirt backs as marked on pat- front mark (lay piece of poplin to wrong Secure midpoint of drawstring to elastic instructed. Topstitch seams and edges tern and topstitch them in place. Attach side of waistband before stitching button- at point where ends of elastic are joined with two parallel rows stitching. Stitch jeans studs to outer top corners of back hole to reinforce buttonhole area). Open (at center-back seam on waistband) with flatlock stitching on front pockets and pockets. buttonhole. Stitch ends of waistband to- row of back and forth stitching to stop waistband with flatlock stitch on serger Joining: Stitch center-front seam (note gether to form circle, leaving small opening drawstring from slipping out. Close open- or with decorative overedge stitch on that stitching line runs along outer edges for inserting elastic in seam as marked ing on waistband by hand-stitching. Stitch regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb of mock fly extensions). Fold mock fly on pattern. Pin one edge of waistband to vertical bar-tack through all layers across stitch). extensions onto right skirt front and garment’s waist edge right sides together midpoint of buttonhole on waistband, and stitch it in place with straight stitch, forming separate holes for each end of Front pockets: Finish raw opening edges stitch their edges to skirt front from right side with two parallel rows of stitching. stretching both waist edge and waistband drawstring to pass through. of pockets and stitch hems at them with slightly as you sew. Fold waistband in half

36. Poco Pantalones stretch twill pants 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 2, 64

5

MATERIALS 6 2 - 75-80-80-85-85-90-95 cm stretch 1 cotton twill (CO/EL), PATTERN PIECES cut stretch 8-10% - 10 cm interfacing, 1 pants front 2 Vlieseline® H 180 2 pants back 2 - two metal zippers for pockets, 4 3 outer pocket piece 2* length 8 cm 4 inner pocket piece 2 - pants zipper, length 8-9-9- 5 waistband 1 10-10-11-11 cm 6 fly shield 1 - snap fastener, ø 12 mm (- 25 cm matching cotton fabric 3 for outer pocket pieces) PATTERN SHEET F black CUTTING with straight stitch and finish them with Front pockets: Transfer markings for side of pants front and stitch it in place Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching pocket openings to pants fronts and to from right side close to edge of pocket cated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also close to edges and seamlines unless oth- wrong side of outer pocket pieces. Pin opening. Pin inner pocket piece to outer 3 cm x 47 cm strip for belt loops. *If your erwise instructed. outer pocket piece to pants front right pocket piece right sides together and fabric is bulky, cut outer pocket pieces Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for waist- sides together and stitch around pocket stitch side and bottom edges of pocket from lighter-weight cotton fabric. band and for areas of pocket openings opening. Slash pocket opening as marked pieces together. Finish seam allowances on pants fronts and fuse them in place on pattern. Push outer pocket piece together. Pin and stitch seam allowances SEWING (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale through opening to wrong side and press on top edge of pocket opening to inner edges of pocket opening thoroughly. pocket piece. >>> Construction techniques: Stitch seams patterns). Pin zipper under pocket opening to wrong Machine-baste top edge of inner pocket Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of edge of seam allowance. seam close to edge. Stitch free ends of piece to pants waist seam allowance. belt loop strip. Fold and press strip in Waistband: Fold waistband in half as belt loops to top edge of waistband. Stitch rows of reinforcing stitching at three lengthwise to a width of 10 mm, marked on pattern and press. Stitch bot- Finishing: Finish raw bottom edges of both ends of pocket opening. with finished edge on top. Stitch two tom edge of non-interfaced half of waist- legs. Fold up, press and stitch hems at Joining: Stitch darts on pants backs. Pin parallel rows topstitching in the middle band to pants waist, with its right side bottom edges of legs. Attach snap fastener pants fronts and backs right sides together of strip. Cut strip into six equal-length facing wrong side of waist edge. Fold to pants waist. and stitch leg inseams. Finish raw edges pieces. Pin one end of each belt loop to waistband right sides together at pants of crotch seam allowances. Apply zipper pants waist right sides together as shown front and stitch its ends. Fold waistband to placket, following illustrated instructions in design sketch and machine-baste belt right way up, turn seam allowance on its for fly-front zipper on p. 45. Stitch side loops in place both within waist seam interfaced edge under, and pin and stitch seams. allowance and 20 mm away from outer turned-under edge to right side of waist

37. Monopatin Bermudas 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62-63

9 PATTERN PIECES cut 5 1 pants front 2 2 pants back 2 3 pocket facing 2 4 pocket piece 2 3 4 1 2 5 binding for pocket opening 2 6 back pocket 2 7 7 pocket side piece 2 8 facing for pocket opening 2 8 9 waistband 1 10 fly shield 1 6 10 PATTERN SHEET F blue

ing unless otherwise instructed. Stitch edge of pocket over edge of template to Machine-baste side edge of pocket to MATERIALS bar-tacks as approx. 1 cm long rows of wrong side and press pocket edge thor- side seam allowance and its top edge to narrow, short zigzag stitching, using con- oughly. Mark pocket placements on pants waist seam allowance on pants front. - 85-85-90-90-95-95-100 cm plaid trast-color thread. backs by laying pocket template on pants Stitch bar-tacks across binding at both cotton poplin (CO) panel and stitching around it. Turn seam ends of pocket opening. - 5 cm contrast-color cotton poplin Preparation: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns allowance on free edge of pocket side Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right (CO) for trims and fuse them in place. Stitch darts on piece to wrong side, pin pocket to pants sides together and stitch leg inseams. Fold - 5 cm interfacing, pants backs. Fold and stitch pleats on back and stitch it in place close to turned- seam allowances toward pants fronts and Vlieseline® H 180 pants fronts as marked on pattern. Top- under edge of pocket side piece. Fold topstitch seams. Finish raw crotch edges - pants zipper, length 10-10- stitch pleats for approx. 4 cm from right pleats at top ends of pocket side piece, and edges of zipper placket. Stitch crotch 11-11-12-12-13 cm side with two parallel rows of stitching. pin top edge of pocket to pants panel seam from back waist to notch for zipper - two contrast-color zippers for and stitch it in place with two parallel placket. Apply zipper to placket, following Back pockets: Pin facing for pocket rows of stitching. Stitch bar-tacks on pockets, length 10 cm opening to back pocket, right sides to- illustrated instructions for fly-front zipper pocket, placing them at ends of pocket on p. 45. Topstitch crotch seam from - metal button, ø 15 mm gether, and stitch around pocket opening side piece. as marked on pattern. Slash pocket open- bottom of zipper placket to back waist. ing, fold facing through opening to wrong Front-hip pockets: Pin pocket facing Stitch bar-tacks on front fly as shown in side and press edges of pocket opening to pants front, wrong sides together, and design sketch. machine-baste edges of pocket opening CUTTING thoroughly. Pin zipper under pocket open- Stitch side seams, fold seam allowances ing to wrong side of back pocket and together along seam allowances. Stitch toward pants backs and topstitch seams Cut bindings for pocket openings from stitch it in place from right side close to binding for pocket opening to edge of close to seamline from waist to bottom contrast-color poplin and other garment edge of pocket opening. pocket opening, with pocket facing and edge of front-hip pocket. Fold up, press pieces from plaid poplin as indicated on binding right sides together. Understitch Stitch pocket side piece to bottom and and stitch hems at bottom edges of legs list of pattern pieces. Cut also 3 cm x seam allowances to edge of pocket open- as marked on pattern. 47 cm strip from plaid poplin and 3 cm side edges of back pocket as marked on ing. Fold entire binding to right side of x 8 cm strip from contrast-color poplin pattern, right sides together. Fold seam pants panel and topstitch pocket opening Belt loops, Waistline: Follow instruc- for belt loops. allowances toward pocket and topstitch close to edge. Turn seam allowance on tions for design no. 36. Construct con- seam close to seamline. Sew row of ease- free edge of binding to wrong side and trast-color belt loop in the same way as SEWING stitching along top edge of pocket. Make stitch edge to pocket opening close to the other belt loops and stitch it to center- cardboard template with pattern piece edge. back seam. Stitch buttonhole and sew Construction techniques: Stitch seams for pocket. Lay template on wrong side button on waistband as marked on pat- with straight stitch and finish them with of pocket. Pull up bobbin thread of ease- Pin pocket piece to pocket facing right tern. serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams stitching, turn seam allowance on top sides together and stitch bottom of and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- pocket. Finish seam allowances together.

38. Deportivos jersey shorts 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60-61

MATERIALS - 10 cm dark-grey poplin and CUTTING 15 cm x 15 cm piece of pale-grey Cut leg side panels from dark-grey and Cut also 2.5 cm x 90...105 cm strip from - 60-60-65-65-75-75-80 cm cotton single jersey for drawstring. single jersey (CO/EL), poplin for back pocket (CO) back pocket from pale-grey poplin. Cut - piece of interfacing, waistband from ribbing and other garment stretch/recovery 30% pieces from single jersey as indicated on SEWING - 12 cm dark-grey ribbing (CO/EL) Vlieseline® G 785 - 60…75 cm elastic, width 3.5 cm list of pattern pieces. Follow instructions for design no. 10. 38. Deportivos jersey shorts 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm 3

7 4 6 PATTERN PIECES cut

1 5 1 pants front 2 2 2 pants back 2 3 pocket band 2 4 pocket piece 2 5 leg side panel 2 6 back pocket 1 7 waistband 1

PATTERN SHEET E orange

39. Béisbol raglan T-shirt and polo shirt 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60-63

5 A 7 6 6

8

B 1 2 MATERIALS 3 Design A: - 60-65-65-70-70-75-75 cm printed 4 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 12 cm ribbing (CO/EL) PATTERN PIECES cut Design B: 1 front 1 - 60-65-65-70-70-75-75 cm striped, 2 back 1 25…35 cm blue, 15 cm turquoise 3 sleeve 2 and 18 cm green cotton single 4 sleeve cuff 2 jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ 5 neckline binding (A) 1 recovery 30% 6 collar (B) 1+1 - 6 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 7 placket piece (B) 1 - three snap fasteners, ø 10 mm, 8 pocket (B) 1 Prym Jersey - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® H 180 PATTERN SHEET F green CUTTING Design A panel as marked on pattern and stitch it Pin and stitch neckline binding to neckline Design A: Cut neckline binding and sleeve Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back in place close to edge. seam, placing it on top of collar right sides cuffs from ribbing and front, back and panels right sides together and stitch rag- Front placket, collar and neckline: together (overlap ends of binding by sleeves from single jersey as indicated on lan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams Construct front placket following illus- 1 cm with placket underlap and placket list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam and side seams. Leave garment inside out. trated instructions on p. 45. Pin sleeves overlap). Turn front neckline corners right allowances to neckline. Finish neckline and bottom edges of to front and back panels right sides to- side out and trim neckline seam allow- ances even. Turn seam allowance on free Design B: Cut front and back from sleeves following instructions for design gether and stitch raglan seams. no. 9. Fold up and press bottom hem and edge of binding under, pin edge to neckline striped and sleeves from blue single jersey. Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch it in place close to edge. Cut upper collar from turquoise single stitch it with twin needle on regular and stitch their outer edges together. jersey and under collar, placket piece and sewing machine or with double or triple Trim corners, press seams open and turn Joining: Stitch sleeve underarm seams pocket from green single jersey. Cut sleeve coverstitch on serger. collar right side out. Press collar flat and and side seams. Finish bottom edges of cuffs from ribbing. Cut also 3 cm x 20... topstitch its outer edges using presser- sleeves following instructions for design 25 cm binding strip from green single Design B foot edge as guide. Machine-baste open no. 9. Fold up and press bottom hem and jersey for finishing neckline. Preparation: Cut interfacings for upper edges of collar together. stitch it with twin needle on regular sewing machine or with double or triple collar and placket piece and fuse them in Pin and stitch collar to garment’s neckline, SEWING place. coverstitch on serger. Attach snap fasten- with under collar facing right side of neck ers to front placket, placing them on Construction techniques: Stitch raglan Pocket: Fold and press hem at opening edge and aligning ends of collar with cen- center-front line as follows: top snap seams and side seams with serger or with edge of pocket and stitch it with twin ter-front marks at neckline (= on placket 15 mm below neck edge, bottom snap overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing needle on regular sewing machine or with overlap) and on placket underlap. Fold 3 cm above topstitching at bottom of machine. Stitch collar, front placket and double or triple coverstitch on serger. placket facing and inner half of placket placket and the third snap halfway be- neckline of design B with straight stitch. Turn seam allowances on other pocket underlap to right side of neckline, with tween these. edges to wrong side, pin pocket to front collar in between, and stitch neck edges. 40. Abuelito cotton jersey jacket 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62-63 4

PATTERN PIECES cut 3 1 front 2 1 2 2 back 2 3 sleeve 2 4 pocket 2 5 hem band 1 6 sleeve cuff 2 5 6 PATTERN SHEET F red Cut 5 cm wide binding strips from ribbing ing edges with binding on p. 45. of sleeves as marked on pattern. Stitch for finishing back neckline and center- Preparation: Cut pieces of stay tape for sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve under- front edges. If you use a binder attachment stabilizing center-front edges (measure arm seams and side seams. Fold underarm MATERIALS on your coverstitch machine to attach required length of tape on pattern pieces seam allowances to one side and stitch the binding, cut the binding strip in the them flat across sleeve-edge hems. Stitch - 95-100-105-110-115-120-125 cm for front and hem band and add seam width that fits the binder. allowances) and fuse them to seam hem band to garment’s bottom edge using of pieces of cotton single jersey allowances. Cut stay tapes for shoulder plain seam with flatlock topstitching. Fold (CO/EL) in three different colors, SEWING edges on back panel and fuse them to up, press and stitch bottom hem as stretch/recovery 30% Construction techniques: Stitch sleeve wrong side of shoulder seam allowances. marked on pattern. - 25 cm ribbing (CO/EL) underarm seams and side seams as well See edges shaded in grey on small-scale Front edges and snap fasteners: Finish - 80…100 cm fusible stay tape, as sleeves to armholes with serger or patterns. center-front edges and back neckline with Vlieseline® Formband with overedge stretch stitch on regular Pockets: Fold and press hems at opening binding and leave a little extra at each - 5...6 snap fasteners, ø 10 mm, sewing machine. Stitch other seams as edges of pockets and stitch them with end of binding. Wrap ends of binding to Prym Jersey plain seams with flatlock topstitching as decorative overedge stitch on regular wrong side and stitch them to binding 5 follows: Stitch garment pieces right sides sewing machine or with flatlock stitch on mm away from bottom-hem edge. Trim together with straight stitch, press seam serger. Turn seam allowances on other excess binding off close to stitching. Attach open, trim seam allowances if necessary snap fasteners to bindings at front edges, CUTTING pocket edges to wrong side. Pin pockets and topstitch seam from right side with to front panels as marked on pattern and placing top snap as follows: place top snap Preshrink all pieces of fabric before cut- decorative overedge stitch on regular stitch them in place close to edge. at pattern marking, lowest snap 15 mm ting. Cut hem band and sleeve cuffs from sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch) above bottom-hem edge and the rest at ribbing and other garment pieces from or with flatlock stitch on serger. Stitch Joining: Stitch center-back seam and regular intervals between these. pieces of single jersey as indicated on list sleeve-edge hems and bottom hem with shoulder seams as plain seams with of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allow- decorative overedge stitch on regular flatlock topstitching. Stitch sleeve cuffs to ances to center-front edges and back sewing machine with flatlock stitch on sleeves using plain seams with flatlock neckline. serger. See general instructions for finish- topstitching. Stitch hems at bottom edges FRONT PLACKET Design no. 39

“Left” and “right” refer to the garment when worn. 1. Finish raw outer and bottom edges of placket piece. Slash placket opening on placket piece as marked on pattern. Pin placket piece to front panel right sides together (slashed placket opening is placed to the right of center-front line on front panel) and stitch along placket edges, starting stitching at top end of placket with 3 mm seam allowance and decreasing seam allowance as you approach bottom of placket. Slash placket opening on front panel. 2. and 3. Understitch seam allowances on each edge of placket opening to placket piece close to seamline. 4. Turn placket piece to wrong side of front panel. Fold placket piece on right edge of placket wrong sides together along pattern foldline to form placket underlap and press folded edge. 5. Pin bottom edge of placket underlap on right edge of placket to bottom edge of placket piece (= placket facing) on left edge of placket and machine-baste bottom edges together from wrong side. 6. Pin placket piece to bottom of placket from right side of front panel and stitch horizontal row of stitching through all layers across bottom of placket.

EDGE FINISH WITH KNIT BINDING

The binding can be cut either from 2. Determine the length of the binding. Mark both binding and edge to be ribbing or from the same knit as the Binding cut from the knit used for finished into qua ters. rest of the garment. The most suitable the actual garment Stitch one edge of binding to garment’s knits are those that do not curl, such (stretch/recovery 20-30%): edge, rights sides together, aligning as interlock knit or rib knit. • length of binding = 0.85 x length of quarter marks and stretching binding The binding can be stitched to the the edge to be finished X cm along curved portions of garment’s garment using a binder attachment on edge. Use straight stitch on a regular a serger. When using a binder, the Binding cut from ribbing (stretch/ sewing machine, or alternatively stitch binding is cut in the width specified recovery 40-50%): on a serger. Stitching I. by the serger instructions. The exact • length of binding = 0.70 x length of Fold the other edge of binding over to cut length of the binding cannot be the edge to be finished X cm wrong side of garment’s edge and top- specified in advance and ou’ll find the Note! As the elasticity of different stitch binding with twin needle from best technique for applying the binding knits tends to vary, the length of right side close to edge. Stitching II. by experimenting. The edge finish will the binding should be checked by be neat and look very professional. Neaten edge of binding on wrong side experimenting on a piece of scrap of garment by carefully trimming off If you want to attach the binding on fabric before applying the binding to excess seam allowance. a regular sewing machine, use the the garment. following method. Note! When finishing the neckline Cut the binding in the width of 3.5 cm of a T-shirt with knit binding, stretch if the finished width of the binding is both the neck edge and the binding as 1. Measure the length of the edge to supposed to be 10-12 mm. you sew in order to produce an elastic be finished (=X cm) on the pattern 3. Applying the binding: seam. piece.

FLY-FRONT ZIPPER Designs no. 36, 37

The zipper application is for boys’ pants. For girls’ pants, inter- change left and right in the instructions. 1. Construct fly shield Fold fly shield piece in half right sides together, and stitch bottom edges together. Turn shield right side out and serge or zigzag raw long edges together. Stitch zipper tape to fly shield 2. Finish raw edges of zipper placket. 3. Fold seam allowance on narrower edge of zipper placket to wrong side. Pin and stitch fly shield under plac et edge. 4. Pin other zipper tape to fly facing f om wrong side, open zipper and stitch it in place. 5. Topstitch fly facing to garments front. Fold fly shield out of the way as you sew. APPLIQUÉ (6. Stitch bar-tack using short zigzag stitch at bottom of placket, Design no.3 catching in fly shield. OTTOBRE design® 3/2013 Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy 2013 45 Frequently used measurements BABIES 56-86 cm / 22˝-337⁄8˝ SIZE CHARTS inches metric inches feet Height cm 56 62 68 74 80 86 3 3 3 1 1 7 5 mm 0.5 cm ⁄16 Height inches 22 24 ⁄8 26 ⁄4 29 ⁄8 31 ⁄2 33 ⁄8 10 mm 1.0 cm 3⁄8 1. Chest measurement 171⁄2 181⁄8 183⁄4 191⁄4 197⁄8 201⁄2 1 7 1 3 1 1 15 mm 1.5 cm 5⁄8 2. Waist measurement 18 ⁄2 18 ⁄8 19 ⁄4 19 ⁄4 20 ⁄8 20 ⁄2 3. Hip measurement 201⁄2 207⁄8 211⁄4 215⁄8 22 221⁄2 20 mm 2.0 cm 7⁄8 4. Sleeve length 77⁄8 85⁄8 91⁄2 101⁄4 11 113⁄4 25 mm 2.5 cm 1 5. Inseam length 71⁄8 81⁄4 91⁄2 105⁄8 113⁄4 131⁄4 30 mm 3.0 cm 13⁄16

35 mm 3.5 cm 13⁄8 GIRLS AND BOYS 92-122 cm / 361⁄4˝-48˝ 40 mm 4.0 cm 19⁄16 3 45 mm 4.5 cm 1 ⁄4 Height cm 92 98 104 110 116 122 1 5 1 5 50 mm 5.0 cm 2 Height inches 36 ⁄4 38 ⁄8 41 43 ⁄4 45 ⁄8 48 1 7 5 3 1 10 cm 315⁄16 1. Chest measurement 21 ⁄4 22 22 ⁄8 23 ⁄8 24 ⁄8 25 ⁄4 2. Waist measurement 207⁄8 211⁄4 215⁄8 22 221⁄2 227⁄8 12 cm 43⁄4 3. Hip measurement 227⁄8 235⁄8 243⁄8 251⁄4 26 263⁄4 15 cm 515⁄16 4. Back waist length 87⁄8 91⁄2 97⁄8 103⁄8 11 115⁄8 18 cm 7 1⁄8 5. Sleeve length 125⁄8 133⁄8 141⁄8 15 153⁄4 161⁄2 7 20 cm 7 ⁄8 6. Outseam length 211⁄4 227⁄8 243⁄8 26 271⁄2 291⁄8

25 cm 97⁄8 7. Shoulder width 31⁄8 31⁄4 31⁄2 35⁄8 33⁄4 4

30 cm 1113⁄16 3 3 35 cm 13 ⁄4 1´ 1 ⁄4˝ GIRLS 128-170 cm / 503⁄8˝-667⁄8˝ 40 cm 153⁄4 1´ 3 3⁄4˝ Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 34 34 45 cm 17 ⁄ 1´ 5 ⁄ ˝ 3 3 1 1 7 1 5 7 Height inches 50 ⁄8 52 ⁄4 55 ⁄8 57 ⁄2 59 ⁄8 62 ⁄4 64 ⁄8 66 ⁄8 50 cm 1911⁄16 1´ 7 11⁄16˝ 1. Bust measurement 26 263⁄4 28 283⁄4 297⁄8 311⁄8 321⁄4 331⁄2 5 5 60 cm 23 ⁄8 1´1 1 ⁄8˝ 2. Waist measurement 231⁄4 24 243⁄4 251⁄4 26 263⁄4 271⁄2 283⁄8

70 cm 27 9⁄16 2´ 3 9⁄16˝ 3. Hip measurement 271⁄2 283⁄8 291⁄2 311⁄8 321⁄4 331⁄2 345⁄8 357⁄8 1 3 3 5 1 3 3 80 cm 311⁄2 2´ 7 1⁄2˝ 4. Back waist length 12 ⁄4 12 ⁄4 13 ⁄8 14 14 ⁄8 15 ⁄8 15 ⁄4 16 ⁄8 5. Sleeve length 173⁄8 181⁄8 191⁄4 193⁄4 201⁄2 211⁄2 221⁄2 233⁄8 90 cm 357⁄16 2´1 1 7⁄16˝ 6. Outseam length 303⁄4 321⁄4 337⁄8 353⁄8 363⁄4 381⁄4 395⁄8 411⁄8 100 cm 1 m 393⁄8 3´ 3 3⁄8˝ 7. Shoulder width 41⁄8 41⁄4 43⁄8 45⁄8 43⁄4 47⁄8 5 51⁄4 200 cm 2 m 783⁄4 6´ 6 3⁄4˝

3 m 1181⁄8 9´0 1 1⁄8˝ BOYS 128-170 cm / 503⁄8˝-667⁄8˝ 4 m 157 1⁄2 13´ 11⁄2˝ 7 7 5 m 196 ⁄8 16´ 4 ⁄8˝ Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 3 3 1 1 7 1 5 7 Height inches 50 ⁄8 52 ⁄4 55 ⁄8 57 ⁄2 59 ⁄8 62 ⁄4 64 ⁄8 66 ⁄8

1. Chest measurement 26 263⁄4 28 291⁄2 303⁄4 317⁄8 331⁄8 341⁄4

2. Waist measurement 231⁄4 24 243⁄4 26 263⁄4 271⁄2 283⁄8 291⁄8

3. Hip measurement 271⁄2 283⁄8 291⁄2 303⁄4 317⁄8 331⁄8 341⁄4 353⁄8

4. Back waist length 121⁄4 123⁄4 133⁄8 14 145⁄8 153⁄8 161⁄8 167⁄8 Fabrics 5. Sleeve length 173⁄8 181⁄8 191⁄4 201⁄4 211⁄4 221⁄4 231⁄4 241⁄4 and more 6. Outseam length 303⁄4 321⁄4 337⁄8 353⁄8 363⁄4 381⁄4 395⁄8 41 7. Shoulder width 41⁄8 41⁄4 43⁄8 45⁄8 43⁄4 47⁄8 51⁄8 51⁄4

You can find these charts with measurements in cms on page 23 47