BOOK PREVIEW

Le Bal Café’s owners Alice Quillet and Anna Trattles make all the desserts, including this almond- coconut orange cake (p. 72).

Recipes from Paris’s Best New Bistros A NEW GENERATION OF CHEFS IS SERVING ASTONISHINGLY REFINED, INVENTIVE YET AFFORDABLE FOOD IN RESTAURANTS THAT LOOK LIKE LAID-BACK BISTROS.

BY JANE SIGAL PHOTOGRAPHS BY FREDRIKA STJÄRNE

HEN I WAS at cooking school in curated lists of from established and emerging regions. Paris in the 1980s, I knew very It’s a startling turnaround in a country that still marvels over well what a bistro was: a hangout the 1976 , a blind tasting in which California with a zinc bar, tiled floors and wines beat out Burgundies and Bordeaux. reassuringly predictable dishes like I became so interested in French cooking’s new identity blanquette de veau. Ambitious that I decided to write a book, Bistronomy: Recipes from the cooking happened elsewhere, in Best New Paris Bistros (just released). I wanted to find out hushed, expensive dining rooms. But things change: Chefs how these chefs, many with haute cuisine backgrounds, were Wbegan liberating good food from formal settings. In 2011, when creating this deceptively simple food. I spent a year squeezed the dazzling Bertrand Grébaut opened Septime, the concept of into tiny kitchens, like the one chef Dai Shinozuka runs refined, inventive yet affordable food with a bistro aesthetic at Les Enfants Rouges. Once, in a space-starved galley, I nearly took off and became a movement with a name: bistronomy. stepped in a frigid tub of blanched white asparagus on the floor. One of the great things about bistronomy is its inclusiveness. “It’s constraint that motivates me,” says Le Servan’s Tatiana Kitchens are not all-male French clubs; you’ll find lots of Levha. The 30-year-old chef, who worked at Michelin-three- women and cooks from Japan, England, America; some, like stars Arpège and Astrance, opened her restaurant last year James Henry, come from as far away as Australia. Even in a revamped café in a former borderland region of the city. lists are more open-minded. Instead of rough served Like many of the neo-bistros, Le Servan lacks square footage,

in thick carafes, there’s serious glassware designed to show off so there’s not much expensive equipment. There are also no home dbo by plates andrews. simon stylist: food

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28-course tasting menus. At dinner Levha offers a handful Tomatoes Two Ways with 1. Halve the tomatoes cross- of starters and mains. With only three other chefs in Crab and Soppressata wise. Grate them on a box the kitchen, she can improvise as inspiration strikes. Total 50 min; Serves 4 grater, discarding the skin; you should have 11/2 cups of pulp. “Our cooking is more spontaneous than anyone could James Henry, who cooked at imagine,” she says. The Filipina-French chef refers to her Bones, smokes the tomatoes 2. In a medium saucepan, heat own past and traditions—for instance, stuffing guinea hen for his colorful salad; as the oil. Add the onion and with a voluptuous ginger-herb butter (p. 74). a shortcut, author Jane Sigal garlic and season with the red pepper, paprika, salt and black One reason talented chefs are drawn to bistronomy is recommends fresh tomatoes. pepper. Cook over moderate that if you keep costs low, you can quickly be your own 1 lb. ripe tomatoes heat, stirring occasionally, until boss. “It can take so much time to climb the traditional 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil the onion is softened, about restaurant ladder,” explains Levha. At Haï Kaï, chef- 5 minutes. Add the wine and ¼ cup minced white onion owner Amélie Darvas, who learned her technique in grand simmer until just evaporated, kitchens like Le Meurice and Hélène Darroze, makes a point 2 garlic cloves, minced 3 minutes. Add the grated of using inexpensive ingredients. Her light, bright, citrusy Pinch of crushed tomatoes and basil sprig and “tartare” (p. 72) features smoked fish red pepper cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, instead of sushi-grade tuna. Pinch of sweet paprika “Constraint 20 to 25 minutes. Discard the Another way neo-bistros cut costs motivates Kosher salt and basil sprig. is by dispensing with pastry chefs. black pepper me,” says 3. Add the soppressata to You won’t find intricate confections; ½ cup dry bistronomy the sauce and cook, stirring, instead, the desserts can be prepared 1 large purple or green basil until cooked through, about cooking by any cook or even a dishwasher. star Tatiana sprig, plus basil sprigs 5 minutes. Spoon the sauce At Le Bal Café and their coffee shop, and flowers (optional), into shallow bowls and cover for garnish Levha. Ten Belles, co-owners Alice Quillet with the sliced tomatoes. and Anna Trattles keep it simple: 2 oz. uncured soppressata Season with salt and pepper. Pureed oranges flavor the incredibly moist almond-coconut or hot Italian sausage, Top with the crab, garnish with cake and whipped cream topping (p. 72). crumbled basil and serve. 1½ lbs. heirloom tomatoes, I learned so much from those bistronomy kitchens, and WINE Full-bodied, minerally cut into 1/2-inch slices I’d watch, from a corner, for as long as I could. But once Jura white: 2011 Domaine Badoz service reached its frenetic peak, I was usually booted to the 4 oz. lump crabmeat Côtes du Jura . 3 bar. That was OK: Counters offer some of the best seats (about /4 cup) in the house at these spots. I’d get a glass of New World white wine and take notes for my book.

Jane Sigal is F&W’s France correspondent.

Australian-born James Henry, far right, brings an international perspective to Paris with dishes like tomatoes with crab and soppressata.

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Chef Amélie Darvas, far right, uses masking tape for signage at Haï Kaï. Her delightful tartare is made from smoked fish.

“Amélie Darvas, who learned her technique in grand kitchens like Le Meurice, makes a point of using inexpensive ingredients.”

Almond-Coconut 2. Put the oranges in a micro- Smoked Whitefish 1. In a saucepan of salted boiling Orange Cake wave-safe bowl; add enough Tartare with Herb Oil water, blanch the fava beans page 68 water to reach halfway up the Total 30 min; Serves 4 or peas for 1 minute. Drain and side. Cover partially with plastic cool in a bowl of ice water Active 40 min; Total 2 hr 45 min This bright-flavored tartare Serves 12 wrap. Microwave on high power, for 1 minute. Drain well; if using turning the oranges every from Amélie Darvas at favas, slip off and discard the This coconut-macaroon-like 3 minutes, until very soft, about Haï Kaï can also be made with tough outer skins. Transfer the cake is from chef-bakers 15 minutes; drain. Quarter the smoked bluefish. beans or peas to a bowl. Alice Quillet and Anna Trattles oranges, discarding any seeds. ½ lb. fava beans, shelled 2. In a small bowl, whisk the of Le Bal Café. In a food processor, puree 1 1 ( /2 cup) or /2 cup frozen olive oil with the parsley and until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Unsalted butter, baby peas chives and season with salt and for greasing 3. In a large bowl, beat the eggs ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil pepper. Add 2 tablespoons 1½ lbs. blood oranges or with the granulated sugar. ¼ cup loosely packed of the herb oil to the favas in the navel oranges, scrubbed Whisk in 1½ cups of the orange flat-leaf parsley, chopped bowl along with the smoked puree. Using a spatula, fold fish, microgreens and lime juice. 6 large eggs 2 Tbsp. chopped chives in the coconut, almond flour Toss gently to coat. Season 2¾ cups granulated sugar and baking powder. Scrape the Kosher salt and pepper with salt and pepper and the 5 cups unsweetened mixture into the prepared pan ½ lb. smoked whitefish, piment d’Espelette. shredded coconut (9 oz.) and smooth the top. Sprinkle skinned and cut into 3. In another bowl, whisk the the sliced almonds over the 1/4-inch pieces 3 cups almond flour crème fraîche and lemon juice. cake and bake until a toothpick 1 tsp. baking powder ½ cup loosely packed Spoon the tartare onto plates inserted in the center comes microgreens and dollop the lemon cream ½ cup sliced almonds out with a few moist crumbs 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice alongside. Drizzle the remain- attached, about 45 minutes. 2 cups heavy cream ing herb oil on top and serve. Let cool slightly on a rack. ¼ tsp. piment d’Espelette 2 Tbsp. confectioners’ sugar (see Note) NOTE The mildly spicy Basque 4. In a bowl, whip the cream ¼ cup apricot jam, melted chile powder piment d’Espelette with the confectioners’ ¼ cup crème fraîche with 1 tsp. water is available at specialty food sugar and fold in the remaining 1 Tbsp. fresh Meyer lemon stores and from amazon.com. 1. Preheat the oven to 350°. ¼ cup of orange puree. or lemon juice Brush a 10-inch springform pan WINE Brisk, savory : 5. Brush the melted jam over 2014 Domaine du Haut with butter. Line the bottom the warm cake and let cool. Bourg Côtes de Grandlieu. of the pan with parchment paper Unmold the cake and serve with and butter the paper.

the orange whipped cream. humble ceramics by cazuelita andrews. simon stylist: food

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Thyme-Basted Pork 1. In a 12-inch ovenproof skillet, crushed garlic and the thyme to 2 Tbsp. almond meal Tenderloin with Oyster heat the grapeseed oil until the skillet and cook until the 1 Tbsp. finely grated Mushrooms shimmering. Season the pork butter is foamy. Baste the meat fresh ginger with salt and pepper and cook with the butter just until the Total 45 min; Serves 4 Kosher salt and pepper over moderately high heat until butter browns, 2 to 3 minutes. Chef Dai Shinozuka of browned all over, about 5 min- Four 6 oz. skin-on, 4. Transfer the pork to a cutting Les Enfants Rouges uses an utes. Transfer to the oven and boneless chicken breasts board and cut into thick slices. enticing, crunchy mix of roast the pork until an instant- Spoon the mushrooms onto 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil walnuts, shallot and chives to read thermometer inserted in a platter, top with the pork and 1 shallot, finely chopped garnish pan-roasted pork. the thickest part registers 135°, drizzle with the brown butter. 18 to 20 minutes. 1½ cups dry white wine 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil Garnish with walnuts, shallot, 1½ cups chicken stock One 1¼-lb. pork 2. Meanwhile, in a very large chives and flaky salt and serve. tenderloin skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of 1. In a small bowl, mash the the butter in the olive oil. Add Kosher salt and pepper Ginger-Nut-Butter- softened butter with the herbs, the mushrooms, season with Stuffed Chicken Breasts 2 tablespoons of cashews, 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter salt and pepper and cook over Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4 the almond meal and ginger. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil moderately high heat, turning Season with salt and pepper. occasionally, until golden, about Nut-and-ginger butter flavors 1½ lbs. oyster mushrooms, Using your fingers, loosen the 15 minutes. Add the minced this chicken, adapted from trimmed and torn into skin of each chicken breast to a guinea-hen recipe by chef 1-inch pieces garlic and the parsley and cook, form a pocket, then stuff with Tatiana Levha at Le Servan. stirring, until the garlic is a generous tablespoon of the 4 garlic cloves, 2 minced fragrant, about 30 seconds. and 2 crushed 1 stick unsalted butter, ginger-nut butter. Season the Remove from the heat. 4 Tbsp. softened chicken with salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley 3. Set the pork over moderate ¼ cup mixed chopped herbs, and refrigerate until the butter 2 large thyme sprigs heat. Add the remaining such as parsley, chives, is firm, about 20 minutes. tarragon and dill Toasted walnuts, chopped 3 tablespoons of butter, the 2. Preheat the oven to 400°. shallot and chives and 2 Tbsp. minced raw cashews, In a large cast-iron skillet, heat flaky sea salt, for garnish plus more for sprinkling the oil. Add the chicken breasts skin side down and cook over moderately high heat until well browned, 5 minutes. Turn the Author Jane Sigal researches her book in Les Enfants breasts and cook for 3 minutes. Rouges’ tiny kitchen with Transfer the skillet to the oven chef Dai Shinozuka. He and bake the chicken for 8 to bastes pork tenderloin with 10 minutes, until just cooked brown butter before serving. through. Transfer to a platter and keep warm. 3. Melt 1 tablespoon of the but- ter in the skillet. Add the shallot and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until softened, 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, scraping up the browned bits, until nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and simmer until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 9 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce into a bowl. 4. Spoon the sauce onto plates. Set the chicken on top, sprinkle with cashews and serve.

WINE Ripe, focused : 2012 Les Vignes Herbel La Rue aux Loups. food stylist: simon andrews simon stylist: food

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