R. 94 W. R. 92 W. R. 78 W. R. 77 W. U.S. Department of the Interior Scientific Investigations Map 2820 R. 93 W. R. 91 W. R. 90 W. R. 89 W. R. 88 W. R. 87 W. R. 86 W. R. 85 W. R. 84 W. R. 83 W. R. 82 W. R. 81 W. R. 80 W. R. 79 W. EXPLANATION Old Danford SU UTE Volcano Azure R TRAIL Trappers Lake LPH U.S. Geological Survey Pamphlet accompanies map Indian Agency Buford O WHITE RIVER MILITARY RESERVATION Station A (CAMP ON WHITE RIVER) Trough Road UR Old White River Agency TRAIL Egeria Park Theisen D TRAIL OR ROAD—Names and dates of use shown for some trails and roads. Pass TRAIL (Ute Tribe) EVAN T O Routes plotted from General Land Office (GLO) land plats, early maps, or WHITE RIVER Colorow UTE T. 1 S. Crater D aerial photographs. Most trail or road names are from original sources, RIVERS, LE I PLATEAU TRAIL (Pershing) L TRAIL T. 1 S. TRAIL TRAIL Station Radium L such as land plats. To prevent clutter on the map, some trails and roads are ADVILLE & G O Historic Trail Map TOLL RO N E not shown in solid black. [At the scale of this map, some of the old trails TRAIL and roads, if shown, would appear to closely follow or coincide with later TRAIL Hartman R TRAIL RSESHO AD Divide modern roads, which are shown in brown.] See the accompanying McCoy Scholl HO CO. REEN Sheephorn pamphlet for descriptions of roads. In addition, some shorter trails and trail Stage Station SULPHU

RAILROAD segments on the GLO land plats were omitted here to avoid cluttering the of the Leadville TRAIL Glen McCoy map excessively. Some trails are terminated or their continuation is queried Copper Spur LAKE T 77 AIL R.R. R AIL 18 R TR UTE TRAIL W. RA T ILD where their destinations were not shown on original sources. Locally, parts Burns G N R W ail Canyon AIL 1 IDLEW D RIVE A E D. & S.L. & GO SALT Hole K N ~ V of the early trails are adjusted to better fit modern courses of streams. Most R R I HORSESHOE TRAIL PA O Sheephorn WHITE RIVER LE R Green Mountain 8 MIDD A 77 KE SER D trails date from 1840’s to early 1900’s × R & D Y I D JONES ROAD V C Black T Yarmony I 1˚ 2˚ Quadrangle, O P D Dell Green Mountain Camp E PLATEAU E . T Holy Cross T. 2 S. Bond E R DENVE A City TOWN OR OTHER CULTURAL FEATURE—Approximately located; H IL T. 2 S. Station State S Heeney alternate town names and dates are in parentheses. Most newer town names Orestod Bridge Red Gorge Canon Lakeside Plain COLORADO & ~ CALIFORNIA are shown in brown. Locations of towns shown on previously published Central Colorado Sylvan The WAGON ROAD CO. maps vary widely, and some locations shown here may be inaccurate Station Saddle EMPIRE & GRAND Indian Camp Pass RIVER WAGON Half Moon Prepared in cooperation with McCord ROAD CO. TOPOGRAPHIC FEATURE R Rouge Canon Pass TRAIL I Pass F GORE Ute The Denver Public Library, L S E BLM P Pass RAILROAD—Some railroads show beginning or duration of operation. IL I Leal 877 TRAIL N Grade PAS Western History and C TRAIL 1 BULL GULCH Whiskey Dick WHITE RIVER PLATEAU E R RA Currently operating railroads are shown in brown. Abbreviations of UTE TRAIL UT T WILDERNESS Springs Y UTE E TRAIL BLUE RIVER BLACK LAKE Genealogy Department, Pass Riland L E BLM A STUDY AREA & MOUNT POWELL E P railroad names, full names, and years of operation are shown in the By Glenn R. Scott 87 K Bar H Park K RANGE Only CASTLE PEAK TRA E TOLL ROAD COMPANY accompanying pamphlet. For more details about railroads, see books about and T EAK T. 3 S. A

IL R N WILDERNESS A T. 3 S. railroads listed in the “Sources of Information” in the pamphlet.

D TRAIL I 2004 The Colorado Railroad Museum STUDY AREA AIL 18 L TR Slate

W THE FLAT TOPS Coberly Gap Abbreviations used: R.R. = Railroad, RY. = Railway, Sta. = Station, TR TRAIL AIL TRAIL Creek H Muddy Creek Jct. = Junction, CO. = Company, n.g. = narrow gauge I T Ute Trail T E Rifle Cow TRAIL Pass DRIVE Pass Pass RAIL STOCK R Camp OF 1868) (TREATY UTE RESERVATION EAST BOUNDARY k e P IV TRAIL Carbonate Cutoff TRAIL re ER y C T d A Rio Blanco Sweetwater d TRAIL T u R O TRAIL M TRAIL IL L CARBONA Proposed Deep Creek Hells Gate A M L Gresham S tsero IG W W Wilderness Area TR A R TRAIL E ET A Rock Naomi O T Do RN N Farwell A (location?) E O D R Sherwood Spur H Booth T P Rock Dinner A TRAIL L R C N EE O Creek A TE S D Keay H O Halls Pocket S T I Station TRAIL L r 1887 e L Pass v M W Russell i TRAIL A Josie GREELEY R TRAIL H . K e T. 4 S. P T. 4 S. t TRAIL CO E Ptarmigan t I A T IL I-2326 a

T a R l E N p i

Ortega Wolcott R Pass Yam ver P Y A h R ROAD RA Fort Collins Greeley t 1877 Niche T I u STERLING IV n L S o ER T Sherman ~ Central OLL ROA D CO. Station I-1894 TOLL Pass Boulder Routines and Perils of Stage Travel ~ 70i Squaw Rifle Falls ON Goldstone Coffee Pot UTE TRAI CAN Creek LEADVILLE, EAGLE RIVER TRAIL L Dotsero RED Camp Spring TRAIL 1877 Elbow Cano Edwards Snow Lake n the Leadville area, the first strong placer gold mining activity was in California Gulch from 1859 (Sulphur Spring) RED CLIFF & GORE ive DENVER AREA DENVER Freight Wagons in the Late 1870s and 1880s I Allenton Siding EAGLE RIVER Vail Pass Silverthorne ado R r UTE? TRAIL or LIMON Castle Eagle (Castle, 1885) IL & WHITE RIVER TOLL ROAD CO Blue River ol I-856-G to about 1864, but the really big boom of mining didn’t happen until the late 1870’s. Many stage lines A Village C Blake City TR TOLL ROAD CO Extension I-2468 T E? CREEK WAGON ROAD CO D 1880's LEADVILLE IL Gypsum U A had been in business for nearly 20 years before Leadville really felt the need for additional (Ferry) West KELLY'S RO DENVER QUAD reight wagons were large and strong, and were made of durable wood. They weighed about 3,000 pounds empty. The wagon beds were TRAIL 1877 TRAIL Dotsero Eagle County West TOLL Silverthorne SIM 2820 F Edsum TRAIL 1887 Edwards I-2639 TRA Siloam Springs Station Vail about 11 feet long and 3-4 feet wide. The sides were about 19 inches high, but the addition of extra sideboards would extend the height to transportation services. Several existing stage lines were in business in Leadville, including the Airport (Berry's Red Buffalo Silverthorne Flats Dillon TRAIL Carterville Bighorn Grand PUEBLO Spotswood and McClelland Stage Company, the Wall and Witter Stage Company, and the Barlow and Rifle Gap Grass Valley Ranch) Avon UTE? TR Pass Junction Colorado almost 4 feet. A chain was extended across the top middle of the bed to keep the sides from spreading too much. The ore that was being T. 5 S. Siding Dowds Fort McHenry T. 5 S. LAMAR TRAIL AIL Junction (Location?) I-930 Springs Sanderson Line. At the peak of the rush in 1878, twelve fully loaded coaches arrived each day in D. & R. G. W. Hanging I-2469 hauled was very heavy because it was composed of metallic minerals that weighed much more than an equivalent volume of quartz or Fort Eccles Dillon Wye CROSSING Spruce TRAIL Oro Harvey Gap Defiance Lake BEAVER EAGLE RIVER ROAD CO Two Elk Pass Leadville (Dorset, 1970, p. 260-261). In 1880, daily stage lines ran from Leadville to Kokomo, Glenwood CanyonCreek 7 Grande ver common sedimentary rocks. The lead-silver ores were particularly heavy, as were the gold ores. For the most part, the driver did not sit CORYELL CREEK EAGLE CITY & WHITE Pass rkansas Ri (location?) RIVER TOLL ROAD CO Pueblo A Breckenridge, Georgetown, Buena Vista, Fairplay, Alma, Red Cliff, Aspen City, Twin Lakes, and COAL SPUR TRAIL . on the wagon, but rode the nigh (left) wheeler, guiding his team by a single very strong rein which led to the bits of the leaders; he (KELLY'S TOLL ROAD) G Shoshone Station EAGLE RIVER 1880's . New VULCAN KELLY'S & R Rio various smaller mining camps. The biggest problem for stage travel was that a topographic barrier Chacra (Blake City TRAIL 187 Hardscrabble BRANCH Cunningham D. Gra operated the brake by another strap. Castle COAL SPUR TOLL Daggett nd Devereaux Barlow) Saddle Pass (D. & R.G.) Frisco e TRINIDAD LA JUNTA Defiance Minturn ROAD Pass . was formed by the Colorado Front Range. Most of the stage lines were in business east of the Blue Hill S Ferguson Funston City TRAIL TRAIL I-2745 MF-346 The number of horses or mules and their weights varied some. Generally, four-horse teams were used. The principal team was called the Cactus Gramid Pass C. & mountain range, so there were only two practical solutions; either go over the mountains or go around Keystone N . TT TRA O R. R Higby CO O Charcoal wheelers. They were hitched directly ahead of the driver and on each side of the oak tongue. These horses weighed about 1,400–1,600 Antlers Valley R T I Coalridge Sulphur N Uneva IO G NC AD Rex and Rex COLORADO RA O W IL 1 them. If the stage lines went around the high mountains they would need to travel many extra miles. Ives Station Silt ND JU Springs Grizzly N R ry Shrine Pass N O Halfway House Station pounds apiece. It was their job to provide most of the pulling power and to do the backing if necessary. The front pair of horses were called West G O a South TRAIL d (Nada) A 877 ~ Station n Pass Vail NEW MEXICO Y. Stage Stop Battle Mountain If they went over the mountains, they faced hazardous travel all year and terrible weather during the ~ Glenwood W O u Canon CO. Ferguson o Pass leaders. They were smaller and more agile and they weighed less—1,000 to 1,300 pounds apiece. Their job was to maneuver the wagon as Flour Glenwood Springs D D Park B RATON AND TRAIL 1877 NORTHERN BOUNDARY L winters. Ultimately, the stage lines took both courses. During winter, stages often went southwest Rifle O D EAGLE y

Mill (Boiling Springs, Cottonwood A T Rex r O TR directed by the driver. They generally were hitched to an iron rod that extended back under the wagon tongue and connected to the front axle UTE RESERVATION O Camp Gilman ilita Camp Hale Index Map Showing Location of SPRINGER Barlow Stage Station Fort Defiance, Pass R F M S. across Kenosha Pass, South Park, and Trout Creek Pass, then traveled northward on a shelf road T. 6 S. Anvil Points (TREATY OF 1863) U Fulford AIL I-1641 RIVER L TRAIL T. 6 S. the Leadville Quadrangle (Brown) and of the wagon. If a greater weight of merchandise was to be hauled, a swing pair of horses in a six-horse hitch was used. This swing team was Lacy & Post Office Grand Springs) D F SOUTH CANO Garfield COAL CO. R O along the east side of the Arkansas River to Leadville. In the summer, stages often went southwest E I RD C. & 7 Riverside Red V other Published Historic Trail Maps (Blue) added between the leaders and the wheelers to add to the pulling power of the whole team. County I through South Park to Fairplay and then westward over Weston Pass, on an old Indian road called the Airport Cardiff Canyon DE Red Cliff Rulison TRAIL 188 Airport EAGL Half Moon Fort ROAD Ptarmigan Some freighters owned their own rigs and they made more money than those who worked for a freighting company. Almost 600 teams Ute Trail, a difficult road, improved in some places by placing small logs across it (a corduroy road). TRAIL TRAIL Yeoman Pass Arnett Morris TRAIL Greens Park Pass were hauling ore in the Leadville quadrangle by 1878. Ore haulers were paid by the ton; for short hauls and lighter loads the Spur Bensons Breckenridge The Spotswood and McClelland Stage Company had been running a stage line since 1865 on their Balzac D. & R.G. Station Camp Hale IL haulage rate was about 50 cents per ton. For a long haul and heavier load the rate would be much higher. Griswold and C A Denver and South Park Stage Line. They had two stages running each way daily. During their contract O OLD WAGON R Dos Siding LO McAllisters T Luens RA TRAIL TRAIL E Griswold (1996, p. 230) state that the weight of ore hauled was about 4,000 pounds per wagon. Beckers D D Pass I that started in 1877 at the start of the big mining boom in O Cattle Station Argentine RIO GRANDE JUNCTION R.R. V Searle W

The Notch I M Creek Pando Graveline HE (Conger) Overland D Wagon freight from Denver usually cost $50 a ton in the summer, but much more in the winter. The rates (from New Castle to State Line) I Crooked Pass ELER Leadville, they ordered 200 horses, 12 Concord D . L

L Cruperton Creek O A were based on both weight and distance of haulage. For certain types of merchandise, the rate could be as coaches, and 50 sets of harness. Barlow and A Fall Creek Pass C T N D Fairview Brick Pass N D Sopris D Two rail . E Wilders TRAIL TRAIL & N Recen high as $500 per ton. Before the railroads were built into the quadrangle, the freight rates T. 7 S. R Yard A I T. 7 S. Sanderson’s Southern Overland Mail system was TR Bryant O R NT AIL Y R . CO . Taylor Creek Holy Cross Leadville & G Kokomo Pocahontas Spur Station Spur N . W ST Breen were terribly high. The rates dropped greatly when the first railroad arrived. Indeed, the extended to Leadville in 1878. So heavy was the Raven E ERN CARDIFF BRANCH C.M. R Sweets Pass City O Eagle River Deen UN Y. (Sands) Valley Spur Fancy G ION BRADFORD & Raven Spur A Toll Road Co Station TO Wilfley Mill BLUE RIVER rates dropped even more after more than one railroad arrived and brought more volume of business that the Canon City-Leadville 4-MILE SPUR Wheeler Troutville LL Pass W R WAGON ROAD CO. Sunlight Kiggin O Satank Harris Spur L F A Blue River I Camp F D CO. competition. As a result, many long-haul wagon freighters had to change to hauling from service ran three times daily. A total of six Sunlight coal mine Jct. Keck I Blue River Catherine Ro OF 1868) (TREATY UTE RESERVATION EAST BOUNDARY RA Fancy L Gold Park - 1887 a rin T Grassy Pass C Mitchell Robinson (Ten Mile) Buffers the railroad depots to businesses in town or to places where the railroad could not major coach lines linked Summit County to MILE WAGON g F El Jebel Missouri Missouri D Governor ROAD D. & L.G. R.R. TY & o E Taylor Roudebush Eagle River Pass Spur LEAD CI RO r (Sherman) Taylor Creek Pass Camp Crystal VILLE MASSIVE A k R reach. Some wagon freighting companies probably went out of business. the outside world in the early 1880’s FOUR ORK RI R Sloss Hoosier L F S N Aspen Junction (Cooper) & Wheeler River EADVILLE RING & G i Tennessee Snowcat ROA G F v (Sloane?) Ridge R O Hopkins S (Gilliland, 1987). The best companies coal mine A R e Basalt, 1895 Pass TRAIL 1877 N K r S Pass Cravens (Information from Griswold and Griswold, 1996, and other references listed in the “Sources of Grubbs D S Spur R T Los A TRAIL IV O Leon Seven Castles P.O. Thomasvile Homestake Town Pass Climax E Spur Ruedi Meredith P Information” in the pamphlet that accompanies this map.) used Concord coaches and charged R L L Peachblow Siding Hoosier T R (Castles Station) (MillerCreek) Calcium E Fremont Pass O O Arbany E Pass L AD Snider . x passengers 12-15 cents per mile. The L Emma S Marion Hooks R CO Spur Lime Creek O Wortman O . Quarry Ford S C A Jakeman TRAIL E & P. Montgomery D Muckawanago E D . C Spur Spur D .P T. 8 S. I worst used rough open wagons and Mulford O RADO MID A Union . Wingo COLO LAND N D. & R.G., North Fork EAGLE CITY & LEADVILLE .S Spring Gulch V EAGLE RIVER R O

A N I Quartzville R D

Sewell (Cervera Manalta, D. & R. G. Aspen Branch I E TOLL ROAD CO. L D ROAD CO. L

charged much lower rates. (Jerome Park) Saco W T L 1870 Thompson) Crossing AY Biglow (Quinns Spur) Glenwood Springs (Irwins Brickyard O Wheeler's old Rose Spur T (Information from Dorset, 1970, and Spur) Sellar (Meadows) T. 8 S. Buzzard Pass E WESTERN COLORADO & Norrie EAGLE RIVER coal mine Snowmass L x I Linderman Gilliland, 1987, and other references listed Davies GRAND RIVER TAL CO. IL TOLL ROAD M lenwood Springs is world famous as a wonderful hot-springs resort. E Humphrey EN Mt. Tweto Haystack Gate D TOLL ROAD CO. TIN EN G in the “Sources of Information” in the A CON & T A E . Hell L Pass G Mallon IL Hinsdale The springs were originally called Yampah Hot Springs. Before 1885, O Birdseye pamphlet that accompanies this map.) L Gerbazdale Gate Toll gate V C Tunnel D

RO Willow TRAIL E . A Station D E “No student of geology ever knew the varieties and species of mud in this country Amity G Mosquito Buckskin (Buckskin) Glenwood Springs had been called Boiling Springs, Fort Defiance, LL R Watson A Massive L . I SPEN TRA V O R City . Mosquito London Mill Joe 1883 Watson E A R NAST O until they have peered at the topography of the present day road between this city & A

Thomas TO . R Grand Springs, and Grand River Hot Springs. In 1885, Isaac and Sarah R Woody Creek Station ON L . Pass D D G Nast LOOP E D . . C A G Divide RO A N O [Leadville] and Aspen. From the beginning to the terminus of the trip it is a sea of Y W D . S O Snowmass A Ten Mile Stage Station V Alexander G . Alma R W IL R .B. Cooper, who had both lived in the area since 1882, and had wanted to K LE FOR D.L. &. & G A WILLOW D R A , FRYING P ROARING K Alma T. 9 S. Heiberger G AN & & C W fathomless mud and terra firma is encountered in every consistency, so that when the N O O Ryan . L.M C D Bates (Mellor) F N R D R ING OAD CO. L.C. & S. H Park Junction PARK O . R Station establish a hot-springs resort, renamed the town “Glenwood Springs” & A Poverty C traveler alights from the coach upon his return there is no mistaking where he has been. E . Nugget Gulch L Clover T AL RIVER O GU City EN R R Flat IA D.S.P. & P. A large freight wagon filled with ore on its way from mine to mill. Engraving by I.P. SP & WE S Janeway EDITH AN Douglas Leadville 1877 N Alma T. 9 S. A . D R after their hometown of Glenwood, Iowa. Before the railroad arrived, He is coated with the article from the centre of his bald and shining pate to the tips of G . & South S.P. & L.S.L.R.R. Junction O . & City Branch (Mobley's Camp) , N Sugarloaf Pranishnikoff of a sketch by H.R. Poore. Engraving originally published in “Harper’s Rathbone R IF A . A Bond Evansville Evans 8 G MER P Leadville L his shoes, and the jaunt that was made a few days since was a mountain experience C.R., 189 CRYST S . g Lenado Pass AY & CA Glenwood Springs was reached by stagecoach from Leadville and P r Winchester Weekly,” September 1878. (Z-3269) T a G L Resurrection C. & Hawxhurst East Hightower NORTHERN BOUNDARY E d Clifton P R e IN R that the travelers will never forget in their sojourn here on earth.” N o (Woody) Hagerman Little Chicago I Mine nl Y Iron A Aspen. Before a bridge was built across the Colorado River there was a A y R F Mountain Pass ELK MOUNTAIN RAILWAY UTE RESERVATION B F Crawford C.M. . S. I R E, Busk Hill Sacramento Collbran L A LEADVILL Log Spur Ryan . G (TREATY OF 1863) R Old ferry to link both sides of the valley. People on foot and horseback and “Once, it was during the dead of winter, and the snow had been falling grade only 1 N Soda New Oro (Spring Valley) C Malta 8 Kile Oro Ibex Plateau City Vega H Concentrator Springs until it was as much as ten feet deep, the round trip to Aspen proved to be one Avalanche 7 D. &Eilers Springtown Fairplay in wagons and stagecoaches had to board the ferry to cross the river. In AY 7 C C C

O Station Walker R O of my worst experiences. Although traffic was heavy, the snow drifted so badly W Bucktown New Leavick

Y A Stapleton Spur Ponder N 1887, the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad reached Glenwood Springs S L Hot HUNTER Evergreen Spur

that the road was not kept open. We were at a place, between Bromley’s and the top Eagalite Coal Basin T C Station CR T Lakes

n.g. A R EN E I Springs P E N

L EE AS K BURR Horseshoe through scenic Glenwood Canyon, and later the same year the Colorado R K & E of the range for three days and nights in a traffic jam. That may sound odd, but it was I B Roaring Fork City ILLE ROARI Crystal Doran VE RA ADV NG LE E R NCH Snowmass LE F LL N O TRAIL RA (Ute City) OR A DVI T Pullman Lake East Midland Railroad also reached Glenwood Springs. true. Someone got stuck in the snow, teams began to line up, unable to pass, until they ILW K O T AY & L A Village Maroon Aspen G Camp Horseshoe Pass Leadville C. & S.

E L L R RIV R T reached in both directions for a great distance, and it was impossible for anyone to T. 10 S. Medio Holden Works smelting L A ND O R Westons E L O D Mudsill (Information from references listed in the “Sources of Information” A L A Ranch Hilltop R I Pearts advance in either direction. We finally cleared up the jam by carrying sleds, stages and D D V T. 10 S. SAN JUAN RAIL V O I Gordon Gold Basin (Leavick) in the pamphlet that accompanies this map.) I A C D Plateau Redstone L D O L South Farwell E wagons and their loads out of the road and to new positions. It was mighty labor and we Crystal E C . Brown's Bernard Toll O ROA TRAIL 1877 GE D Mullenville R . Fork T AN Pass RK R C were all exhausted from our efforts.” Ranch gate Tourtelotte O PA Pass RA Snowden 1882 IL O Park A Nine Mile WES . R OVER TO “Then at other places, where the way down was steep, we traveled too fast. At this I AD N 1 AL RIVER N RO Capitol Pass P Midway House 8 I G P T V Lost Man 7 Breakneck Pass A time I was driving a six horse team with wagon and trailer. It was almost impossible to K I F R 7 Pass I O S N Pass -1887 G S R R . R E hold the heavy load. At times I found it necessary to put four roughlocks on the trailer CRYST Daly Pass & I , O N K V O A I V & Weller C I D R I G A Junction and two on the wagon to keep them under control. Even then one of my wheelers fell R U Weston To salt Placita Hayden S East D G N . EAST BOUNDARY UTE RESERVATION (TREATY OF 1868) (TREATY UTE RESERVATION EAST BOUNDARY Highland . toll gate Cabin N O F A I & IS C A O works and was dragged at least 100 feet before we could get stopped but it didn’t kill him.” (ABOVE) A brand new Concord stagecoach photographed at the factory of Abbot, Downing, and Company in N O D (Dana, Kobe) Pass S Leon Snowmass OA 1879 N T A IR C McClure Pass, . I OLL RO N R A R McClure Heckert Pass O P A D L O A D. & R.G. L Concord, New Hampshire. Most of the Concord coaches that were built saw service on the dusty trails McClure House Pass C A K A L R Kobe R (Accounts of the trials of making a trip by stagecoach or Y O O I Four Mile C South Halfmoon A Ragged D N R Avalanche Pass Willow Park? T I Junction House Twin A throughout the plains and mountains in the western United States. The new stagecoach came with adjustable A T DEVILS freight wagon over Independence Pass from Leadville to Y G Pass Park, 1873 N & N Mountain Trail Rider C O toll gate L 1913 I ( Lakes D O R T F PUNCHBOWL Stiles L Prospect H G Aspen. From Griswold and Griswold, 1996, p. 1589) leather side curtains, leather boot attached to the back of the stage, top deck seat, hand-operated brakes, lamps, O I ROAD FROM CALIFORNIA A Pass L N Independence Dayton, Ranch L A Willow T Y Silver CreekPass L C R C.M. E R W O Independence Red A U K 1860 GULCH TO GRANITE and fancy hand-painted ornamental sides. In this view, the shiny leather side curtains are rolled down over the T. 11 S. Chair Buckskin O P City (Mammoth Brumley D R Pass G Pass T Curran ) Mountain V A Creek Snowmass T T Twin Lakes, T Standard gauge & O (Hunters Pass) I Pass N O City, Sparkill in (Bromley) Inn Harvard,Twin L front and back side windows. The “strong box,” which contained valuables, was kept under the driver’s seat. L T. 11 S. Holland . L L 1879 L K O E L STAGE ROAD AND WAGON Twin Lakes Spur,Twin TRAIL 1877 E O R 1885) O Columbia R Fortch O Passenger’s luggage and mail sacks were stowed in the leather boot at the back of the stage. Inside, nine MAROON E R C Platte Station R ROAD TO TWIN LAKES Lakes O A Lakes Station, Camp R TRAIL 1877 Marble A A D D O Pass k passengers shared three leather-covered seats, and for short distances as many as 10-12 people could ride BELLS C A Toll Waco D d e A MESA Genter M C D n re N O a Crystal O Carey's Camp 1882 New Tacoma C & C Gate GRAND . Interlaken h O R O g g perched on top of the stage. The coach was beautiful to look at—two hand-rubbed coats of paint were applied, Frigid Air Bowman Everett 1880 ou in K York O City L (Conundrum . R bl E L m YULE ELECTRIC RAILWAY R Ashcroft Pass u Pass Pass L TWIN LAKES & ARKANSAS T followed by two coats of spar varnish. Photographer unknown. Between 1880 and 1900. (X-21797) E Meilly I A O Hot Springs) Graham

Halsey A Strauss quarry R 1880 Granite T TOLL ROAD CO. M R C Pass R TREASURY MOUNTAIN RAILWAY E Pass T The Narrows N D Yale Station N R Electric Pass RED Tellurium Pass E O 1877 E O E M R FT Yule Colorado quarry C D H I P P O O S Grand Mesa MOUNTAIN V Kelley's diggings U Difficult A I S P R N T Town D Anthracite Pass A O A A Pass & (location?) (LEFT) Concord stagecoach “No 7 US Mail,” the T. IN . S L C AREA Cache Creek West N M a A & I O PRE-1880 y 1865 A T

C T. 12 S. 12 SHC A r (1860) Buffalo Meadows

e N Montezuma T “Cripple Creek stage,” drawn by a team of six Maroon Coopers R D E Schofield s O Ruby N Georgia Pine A

S. N Pass Camp F G

Conundrum I

East T U O

T T Beaver horses in the high country of Teller County, u Bar Creek (Castle Forks, Taylor O O

R

L N

Spud Pass Schofield Pass Pass l Maroon L c City M L

Chloride) 1880 R O

Yule Pass Pass h Colorado. Concord stagecoaches similar to this one O L Elko Park Pass Pearl Pass A D C Vicksburg (Wolle) D RE O T were used throughout the Old West. Between 1890 R. 78 W. R. 94 W. R. 93 W. R. 91 W. R. 90 W. R. 89 W. R. 88 W. R. 87 W. R. 85 W. R. 84 W. R. 82 W. R. 81 W. R. 80 W. and 1910. Photographer L.C. McClure. (MCC-3157) R. 95 W. IL R. 77 W. R. 92 W. RED MOUNTAIN TRA R. 79 W. R. 86 W. R. 83 W.

SCALE 1:250 000 Base from U.S. Geological Survey 5 0 510 15 20 MILES 1977 magnetic declination from true north Leadville quadrangle, 1957; revised 1977 varies from 14° easterly for the center 550101520 25 KILOMETERS Colorado Midland Railway passenger special composed of Transverse Mercator projection of the west edge of the map to ° engine No. 49, engine No. 1, a baggage car, chair car, and 10,000-meter Universal Transverse Mercator grid, zone 13 CONTOUR INTERVAL 200 FEET 13 easterly for the center of the east edge “Out from the roundhouse slowly steam six of the largest type of five Pullman cars. The train has stopped at “Hell Gate” to 100,000-foot grid based on Colorado coordinate system, central and north zones engines. Huge, black, puffing monsters which form in a single file with allow passengers to look over the rocky cliffs. Photograph WITH SUPPLEMENTARY CONTOUR INTERVALS AT 100 FEET military regularity and precision. They are the escort for Rotary 08, by H.H. Buckwalter, about 1900. Courtesy of the Colorado North American Vertical Datum of 1929 the latest and best triumph of inventive skill for the purpose of clearing Railroad Museum collection. (ABOVE) Winter scene on Cumbres Pass showing a Denver a way through the barriers of snow. and Rio Grande narrow gauge train in January 1949. By the Divine right of might comes the mighty 08. Behind it, and Photograph by R.W. Richardson. Courtesy of the Colorado furnishing the bucking power, are the six engines… Railroad Museum collection. Swimmers in the Yampah (Yampa) Hot Springs swimming pool in Glenwood Springs. Within a square, steel framework, which reaches from a few Photographer W.H. Jackson, between 1882 and 1900. (WHJ-1074) inches of the ground to a height of about 12 feet, are set the great revolving blades… The monster enters the snow bank, the blades are set going with Breckenridge terrific velocity, and with six locomotives panting, snorting, puffing and straining in the rear, a way is forced. The snow is broken down, The first prospectors in the Blue River valley built a fort (Fort Meribeh or Fort Mary B.) as protection from the Ute Indians; the area Leadville cut by the blades and sent far out beyond the track in a great stream of of the fort later became a part of Breckenridge. The first stagecoach entered the town in 1860. Breckenridge was one of the richest gold powdery, fleecy whiteness.” mining areas in Colorado. In the early years it was a gold placer mining camp. By 1863, miners had worked most of the shallow gravel eadville had several successful boom times over the years. The first was in 1860 with the discovery and exploitation of very rich placer-gold deposits (Part of a reporter’s account of a trip out of Leadville on a Colorado Midland L Railroad rotary snowplow pushed by six locomotives during the hard winter of 1899. deposits in the valleys, removing the placer gold using sluice boxes, rockers, and gold pans. Eventually, hard-rock lode mines were located along California Gulch just southwest and southeast of present Leadville. About 10,000 prospectors arrived in the gulch and recovered a great amount (RIGHT) Snowshed and Colorado Midland Snowfall and drifting snow during that winter were deep enough to completely bury and worked. For example, rich gold veins were discovered on Farncomb Hill. In 1907, giant dredges started operating in most of the of gold. Within about two years the recovery rate decreased markedly partly because of heavy black sand that made it hard to separate the gold particles trains, and many railroad lines in the mountains were impassable for several months. valleys, earning as much as $20,000 worth of gold per week. The dredges could work large areas of gravel that were too deep or and partly because there was too little water flowing in California Gulch to do the panning. Tests in about 1875 of the black sand showed that it was Railroad rotary snowplow locomotive and Published in the March 4, 1899, issue of the Leadville Herald-Democrat.) pusher locomotive on the approach to unprofitable to work by other methods. After the dredging was stopped, the dredges were salvaged for the World War II scrap iron drive. In carbonate of lead that contained about 40 ounces of silver per ton. In 1878, the word spread about the high concentration of silver, and prospectors Hagerman Pass. Photographer W.H. Jackson, the early years of the United States during the purchase of land in the western United States, a 1,300-square-mile area from Breckenridge flooded into the Leadville area. The silver was coming from veins in the bedrock, but most veins were not visible at the ground surface, because they between 1880 and 1890. (WHJ-1613). north to Grand Lake was not officially entered as a part of the U.S.A. The omission was discovered in 1936 by a Breckenridge women’s were covered by surficial deposits. Excavation was necessary. Successful miners found rich silver claims in the hilly areas north of California Gulch and club member and was corrected by Colorado Governor Ed Johnson. east of Leadville. Millions of dollars were made from many of the claims (Eberhart, 1959; Dorset, 1970). However, Leadville soon became (Information from references listed in the “Sources of Information” in the pamphlet that accompanies this map.) overcrowded. Exorbitant prices were charged for sleeping places. Many people died of exposure and starvation. Crime became very common, and lawmen were unable to cope with the problems. The occupied area grew and many small communities were started, including Oro City, Poverty Flats, Railroads in Leadville Agassiz, Slabtown, and Boughtown. The name “Boughtown” referred to the dense grove of coniferous trees that was growing in the Leadville area when miners first arrived. It also referred to the summer lodgings composed of four posts and a covering of evergreen boughs. However, very soon most of the trees were cut for buildings and mine timbers. The name Leadville probably was chosen for the town because lead was the major mineral in both ailroads were requested by the people of Leadville for a long time before they finally got one. Then, within a R the placers and in the lode mines. In the late 1880s, the population rose to 25,000-30,000. In Colorado in the 1880s, Leadville was second only to matter of a few years, they obtained three railroads. On July 22, 1880, the Denver and Rio Grande was the first Denver in population. Many kinds of businesses lined the streets. One street had banks, hotels, and restaurants, and another street had saloons, gambling railroad to reach Leadville. The Denver South Park and Pacific Railroad (narrow gauge) was approaching Leadville halls, and parlor houses. Leadville is the highest incorporated city in the world (10,000 feet, Eberhart, 1959), and so high that the ground is frozen most by 1884, and the final part of the track was laid in the dark of the night in February of that year. The Colorado of the year. In 1893, the repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act caused a panic in Leadville and in all of Colorado’s silver camps. The price of silver Midland Railway (standard gauge) did not run lines into Leadville until August 31, 1887. The Colorado Midland had fell rapidly and eventually many of the silver mines closed. the most difficult time running their rails into the Leadville quadrangle. One problem was that the routes that were the easiest places to lay rails had already been taken by the other railroads. The second problem was that the Colorado (Information from Eberhart, 1959, and Dorset, 1970, and other references listed in the “Sources of Information” in the pamphlet that accompanies this map.) Midland was a standard gauge train, so it needed more space to run the tracks. Curves were broader, bridges and tunnels had to be larger, and the total expense was considerably greater. The most complicated part of the Colorado Midland Railway line was the section westward from Leadville across the Continental Divide to Aspen. To cross the high mountains of the Continental Divide, a major tunnel, the 2,061-foot-long Hagerman Tunnel at 11,528 feet altitude, was constructed in 1887 just south of Hagerman Pass. In addition, a very long curved wood trestle, the most elaborate and spectacular in Colorado, called the Hagerman Horse cars of the Aspen City Railway, sometime between 1889 and 1893. Photographer unknown. Courtesy of the Colorado Railroad Trestle, was built along the eastern approach to Hagerman Pass and Hagerman Tunnel; it was 1,084 feet long, 84 feet Museum collection. high, and 200 degrees in curvature. Snowfall in 1899 was so great that the Hagerman Tunnel could not operate and Men ride on an electric tram as it makes its way out of the Yak Tunnel near Leadville. The 4-mile-long tunnel was completed in 1903, and it provided access to the deep was shut down. It was replaced in October 1899 by the newly acquired Busk-Ivanhoe Tunnel, which was 575 feet lower levels of the Ibex mine group. The tunnel was used to haul gold ore out of the Ibex mine, and it also served to drain groundwater out of that mine and other mines in lower (at 10,953 feet). It saved 575 feet of climbing by the trains, as well as 13 snowsheds and 12 bridges and the region. The site is now part of a "Superfund" hazardous waste site. Photographer unknown, between 1910 and 1930. (X-60599) trestles. The Busk-Ivanhoe Tunnel was called the Carlton Tunnel after 1921. Aspen Street Railway Immediately after the railroads became available for passenger and freight service into Leadville, prices on many In September 1889, the Aspen city council granted a charter to the Aspen City Railway to build a municipal streetcar line. sales items dropped, some items formerly unavailable became easy to obtain, travel became convenient and “The first horse car arrived in early December 1889, and three weeks later a second car arrived and service began. The (RIGHT) Leadville Drum Corps, 1897. The reasonable, and the cost of shipping freight decreased markedly. completed system eventually totaled somewhat over 2 miles, stretching from the fairgrounds, through neighborhoods and men wear waistcoats with zigzag embroidery Denver Leadville and Gunnison Railway engine number 199 emerges from the Alpine downtown, to the railroad stations. The horse cars started their route at the Roaring Fork River and near the Colorado Gold-mining dredge on Box Creek, near Leadville, 1920. The huge dredge floated along on the water as the rotating buckets excavated hundreds of tons of gravel decoration, flattop military caps, trousers with tunnel, which is about 40 miles southeast of Aspen. The locomotive has a balloon stack and (Information from Ormes, 1963, and other references listed in the “Sources of Information” in the pamphlet that accompanies this map.) each hour. It is said that while the dredge was in operation, the noise was deafening, due to the tumbling gravel and boulders and the squeal of the moving steel side stripes, and gaiters. Photographer a cowcatcher. The 1,805-foot-long tunnel was completed in 1881. Photographer unknown, Midland Railroad tracks, then went west on Durant Avenue to Original Street, then north one block, then west four blocks and iron machinery. Such dredges could produce almost 50 pounds of gold each 3-4 days. Gold dredges similar to this one were also used throughout the Blue unknown. (X-6362) between 1900 and 1920. (Z-52) on Cooper Avenue to Mill Street, then three blocks north to Main Street, then west to 3rd Street and about eight blocks to River Valley near Breckenridge. Photographer unknown. (X-60130) Maroon Avenue, then west to 8th Street, and ended their tour near the Fairgrounds. It was not uncommon for a burgeoning community to point with pride to the fact that it had public transport. Aspen was no different. Fletcher (1995) believes that the horse-car system was abandoned during the time of the 1893 depression and the closing of most of the Aspen mines. (Information from Fletcher, 1995, and other references listed in the “Sources of Information” in the pamphlet that accompanies this map.)

The Leadville Miners Strike of 1896–1897

In June 1896, the miners in the Leadville mines were receiving wages of only $2.50-3.00 per day. The miners held that they could not support their families or buy food on only $2.50 per (BELOW) A miner, his son, and dog pose on a horse-drawn wagon near the office day, and that even $3.00 was too meager to be a living wage. Many of the miners then joined the Cloud City Miners Union. A union request to the mine owners for a uniform $3.00 wage of the Mollie Gibson shaft in Aspen with a silver nugget from the Smuggler mine View west across Leadville with 14,421-foot Mount Massive and the Continental Divide in the was refused because the owners said that they were already losing money on the mines in Leadville. During a union meeting on June 19, 1896, by an almost unanimous vote the miners broken into three pieces to get it out of the mine shaft. Photographer unknown, background. Photographer H.H. Buckwalter, between 1900 and 1905. (X-6317) chose to stop the work of all employees receiving less than $3.00 per day. Negotiations became impossible and by June 23 almost 2,300 miners were unemployed. The second general 1894. (X-62149) strike started on the 26th of June, when 968 miners went on strike. Pumpmen, firemen, and engineers were the only people working in some mines. However, despite the strike, the mine Exterior views of the main entrance of Leadville's Ice Palace, built for the owners decided to reopen the mines. First to open were the mines paying less than $3 a day, followed by those paying $3. The miners objected to the reopening of the mines. To counteract 1896 Winter Crystal Carnival in Colorado. A 19-foot-tall ice sculpture of a this, the mine owners called in non-union strikebreakers. Trouble erupted, so the mine owners asked the Colorado Governor to intervene. maiden in a gown and crown stands at the entrance, and her right arm points The Colorado State militia was alerted to the tension, and on September 21, 1896, soldiers of the militia from the Denver area began to arrive by train in Leadville. There was no toward the mines east of town. She stands on a 12-foot-high pedestal and holds a place available to lodge the soldiers, so they began to set up a tent camp on a baseball field on the north side of Leadville, then called Camp McIntire. The soldiers in the militia had scroll that has "$200,000,000" in gold lettering, which represents mining revenue produced through 1894. The Norman-style medieval ice castle covered an area of come to town without adequate clothing or tents, and it took quite a while to get them clothing and tents to survive in snowy Leadville. On September 25, 1896, 65 miners arrived about 320 by 450 feet, and it was constructed of ice blocks about 20 by 30 inches from Missouri to become strike breakers. They were marched toward the Emmet and Coronado mines surrounded by the militia, who were protectors of the mines and the miners. that were cut from local lakes and The arrival of the Missouri miners made the operation of some mines possible and partly negated the effect of the strike on the mine owners. The strike continued until the first week (ABOVE) Miners pose near the rivers. More than 200 craftsmen of March 1897. Then a meeting of the union was held, and 900 miners voted to end it. The militia campaign had lasted 172 days. The strike cost the Colorado taxpayers a total of shafthouse of the Smuggler mine near worked for two months to build $194,010. The flooding of the mines due to inoperation during the strike was so bad that some mines took two years to reopen, and other mines never reopened. The striking miners Aspen. In 1894, the Smuggler mine the structure. The entrance never did receive a uniform wage of $3.00 a day. The cost of the strike in lives, property, and human suffering could never be measured. produced a silver nugget that weighed featured an ice archway with 2,054 pounds. Photographer unknown, turnstiles flanked by 90-foot-high (Information from references listed in the “Sources of Information” in the pamphlet that accompanies this map.) about 1900-1908. (X-62147) octagonal turrets with imitation battlements. The interior of the Any use of trade names in this publication is for descriptive purposes only structure contained a skating and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government rink, ballrooms, restaurant, For sale by U.S. Geological Survey Information Services reception rooms, and museum Box 25286, Federal Center, Denver, CO 80225 exhibits. By mid-June 1896, the This map is also available as a PDF file at http://pubs.usgs.gov Ice Palace had melted away. Photographic credits: Photographer unknown, 1896. (X- Except as noted otherwise, photographs are courtesy of the 6350 and X-251) Denver Public Library, Western History and Genealogy Department. The photographer (where known) and Denver Public Library call number for each photograph are shown at the end of each caption. All historical photographs, sketches, and engravings are clearly referenced so that viewers can readily review the originals in the source institutions. A few of the illustrations have enhancements that are meant to complement the overall publication design. We are careful not to alter the context of these wonderful visions of an era but, rather, to use them to evoke a sense of time and place. Historical data compiled by Glenn R. Scott in 2001–2003 Edited by F. Craig Brunstein Publication design and digital layout by Carol Quesenberry Original drawings by Carol Quesenberry Digital cartography by Springfield and Springfield and Gayle M. Dumonceaux Businesses on Harrison Avenue in Leadville in 1882. Photographer unknown. (X-379) Additional assistance from members of the Central Publishing Group (ABOVE) Colorado National Guard soldiers (the Colorado State militia) in front of canvas tents in Leadville during the mining labor strike of 1896-1897. The Manuscript approved for publication, January 9, 2004 soldiers have U.S. Springfield rifles with bayonets. Photographer unknown, 1896 or 1897. (X-60308)

(RIFLE TO LEFT) U.S. Springfield rifle with bayonet attached. The Springfield was a tried and true, large-bore (.45 caliber), single-shot rifle that was very accurate. It was the standard issue rifle for U.S. soldiers at this time. Soldiers referred to the rifle as the “Trapdoor” or “Trapdoor Springfield,” because of the way the breech block flipped up similar to a trapdoor. Photograph courtesy of Dixie Gun Works, Inc., Union City, Tennessee.

(LEFT) Guarding the Emmett mine near Leadville during the mining labor dispute of (LEFT) Gold bars smelted from ore from mines at Leadville and Breckenridge. Printed on recycled paper 1896-1897. The soldier is carrying a U.S. Springfield rifle with bayonet. Photographer Value of the gold is about $120,000 at the prevailing gold prices between 1880 O’Keefe and Stockdorf, 1896 or 1897. (X-60249) and 1900. Photographer O’Keefe and Stockdorf. (X-60040)