Issue 98 December 2016 - January 2017 FREEFREEFREE

please take one the Drinker

The free newsletter of the Oxford and White Horse Branches of CAMRA www.oxford.camra.org.uk www.whitehorsecamra.org.uk December 2016 - January 2017 98

2 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017 Contents Welcome Gardener’s World 5 Another year is almost 21 Paul Silcock gives a over publican’s view Brewery Focus 6 An in-depth look at Wychwood in Witney A lesson in The OxfordOxford Drinker is the newsletter 8 Pete looks at Oxford’s of the Oxford and White Horse scholastic pubs branches of CAMRA, the . Tony’s Travels 5000 copies are distributed free of 10 Tony enjoys his visit to charge to pubs across the two branches’ area, including Oxford, Abingdon, Witney, , Hanborough Eynsham, Kidlington, Bampton, 12 Rail Ale Wheatley and and most of A crawl around the pubs 24 Celebrating 40 years of the villages in between. around Long Hanborough Rail Ale Trips We have recently relaunched our website and pdf downloads are now News available there once again. 14 A round-up of all the latest news locally Editorial team:

Editor: Dave Richardson [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk

Advertising: Tony Goulding [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk Tony: 07588 181313

Layout/Design: Matt Bullock Roarsome!

Valuable contributions have been 29 Graham Shelton on life at received for this issue from Richard the Red Lion Queralt, Paul Silcock, Dick Bosley, Matt Bullock, Ian Winfield, Dennis Brown, Tony Goulding, Pete Flynn, and Graham Shelton. Real ale Ramble

Please send contributions to the 16 Dick Bosley visits South editor at the above email address.

Pub news can be sent to [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk White Horse 17 White Horse branch news The views expressed in this and diary publication are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily Brewery News Brewer for a day those of Oxford or White Horse 30 Branches of CAMRA, or of CAMRA 18 New beers and new Pete brews at Loose Limited. breweries Cannon brewery

Printed by Ox Uni Print, Kidlington Festival Diary Branch Diary www.oxuniprint.co.uk 20 A selection of autumn 31 What’s on in Oxford © Copyright Oxford CAMRA 2016 festivals to enjoy branch

the Oxford Drinker 3 December 2016 - January 2017 98

4 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017 Welcome ….. to an end-of- year review marked ‘Satisfactory’

ALL SCHOOLCHILDREN await their found only 10 breweries that we shouldn’t be end-of-year reports with some represented on a visit to city complacent, as the number trepidation, but if I was marking pubs. attending was significantly down Oxford CAMRA’s report I would this year and some beer and declare that we are doing fairly But we should never be cider had to be poured away. well but could always do better. complacent, as some people in We are not overly concerned The local brewing scene is the brewing industry warn that about this as people found it a thriving, and while some pubs there are simply too many nicer environment, especially on continue to struggle we have breweries and that some will the Saturday when more tables lost fewer pubs than in previous disappear, while others will be were put out. But we need to be years, and even welcomed merged into bigger concerns. aware of changes in demand, some newcomers. Real ale would seem to be very and respond to them as well established but the appropriate. We need to be vigilant in trying increasing demand for craft to prevent and opposing pub kegs, especially among younger In this issue you can read about closures, while acknowledging people, indicates that tastes Rail Ale Rambles and focuses that some pubs have reached may be changing. This is why on various pubs around our the end of the road. Both Oxford CAMRA is currently conducting area, plus an in-depth look at CAMRA and the neighbouring a thorough review of its aims Wychwood brewery in Witney. White Horse branch which also and priorities. All our regular columnists are contributes to the Oxford present if not correct, and you Drinker have been pro-active in The 2016 Oxford Beer and will again find Paul Silcock of listing threatened pubs as Cider Festival also indicates the Gardeners Arms in Assets of Community Value, Plantation Road, Oxford and while local communities can do Graham Shelton of the Red the same. All being well, ACV Lion in Northmoor full of listing of the Abingdon Arms in interesting comment. Beckley will lead to its re- opening as a community-owned We are also looking forward to venture. our first gala night in February, an initiative by our chairman, The range of beers produced by Pete Flynn. Your news and our local breweries never views are always welcome in ceases to amaze me, and there the Oxford Drinker, so please are literally hundreds of real email me at ales available in and around [email protected] Oxford at any given time. It’s in stark contrast to 40 years ago Season’s Greetings from all of as the first Rail Ale Ramble us to all of you. visited Oxford (see page 24), when nearly 600 thirsty people DAVE RICHARDSON

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P*ss-up* in a Brewery – Wychwood

In the second of a WYCHWOOD BREWERY has a such as Banks’s, Jennings and series of in-depth special place in my affections Ringwood. because I attended my first articles on local CAMRA meeting here, and also The Witney Eagle brewery breweries, Dave because of a dreamy album occupies a site first used as a Richardson visits called From the Witchwood by maltings by Clinch’s brewery in the 1970s progressive rock 1841, but Clinch’s closed down Wychwood in Witney band, The Strawbs. I had no in 1961 after take-over by idea there was a real Courage. In 1983 Glenny Wychwood until moving to Brewery started at this site, Oxfordshire, where I found it renamed Wychwood in 1990. was an ancient forest. Refresh UK bought Wychwood in 2002 and that in turn was The brewery may have no link bought by Marston’s in 2009. with The Strawbs, but it has plenty of links with the music The year 2002 was doubly industry. Not only did it produce significant as this was when a beer for rock band Status Quo Brakspear Brewery in Henley- in 2014 – Piledriver – but it also on-Thames – in operation since sponsors local bands and 1711 – closed down. Brakspear markets its Hobgoblin beer Bitter had a huge following in extensively at music festivals. I the county but this wasn’t the was surprised and pleased to end, as production moved to find it at Butlin’s Skegness for Witney in 2004 including the the Great British Folk Festival, original fermenters and “double and Hobgoblin now turns up at drop” fermenting system. Bitter music and comedy festivals – and Oxford Gold are still and also sports grounds – produced under the Brakspear throughout the country. name, with the bitter tasting more like the original than many If you wonder how an beers that have moved away Oxfordshire brewery could have from their birthplace. The such marketing clout, that’s Brakspear Pub Company because Wychwood is part of remains separate. major group Marston’s. This leads some people to think it As a fan of dark ales I always isn’t an independent brewery, appreciate Hobgoblin, but even but I would beg to differ as it if it’s not to your taste you must PHOTO OPPOSITE: Alex Harrison has a great deal of autonomy admit that it’s a highly (left) and Jon Tillson at Wychwood within the Marston’s family successful brand. The brewery which also includes brands hobgoblin himself is instantly

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recognisable on pump clips, key thing to remember is that a ingredients,” says Alex. “Barrel bottles and other marketing, huge majority still want ageing is an interesting and the advertising campaign traditional high-quality beers, development for short runs, but challenging lager drinkers was a but we must respond to other we are also moving into craft great success as he asks, trends. There are lots of lagers with King Star in cans, “What’s the matter, lagerboy, crossover styles in our 2017 and have produced a gluten- afraid you might taste specials list, such as steam free bottled beer called Gratis.” something?” beer fermented at a higher temperature which creates a This year’s Christmas special is I visited the brewery just a few fruity flavour. again Bah Humbug, with a hint days after Hallowe’en, a major of cinnamon, available in cask date in the calendar for “Very hoppy IPAs came over as well as bottles. Although Wychwood when it stages the with the craft beer movement, Marston’s owns few pubs in Grand Lighting of the Pumpkins. and single hop beers also Oxfordshire, Hobgoblin and the More than 700 adults and 400 became very popular. Beer specials are widely available as children attended this year, drinkers are increasingly guest ales, while Brakspear proof of Wychwood’s strong knowledgeable and looking to continues to have a strong community focus. push the boundaries, and as a following. lot drink keg as well as cask, There to meet me were second there is an expectation that Wychwood – which sponsors brewer Jon Tillson and Alex some of these flavours will the Oxford Beer and Cider Harrison, who is marketing come into cask beer too.” Festival – is going from strength brand manager for Hobgoblin to strength. Its brewery tours and Brakspear. They explained Many new hop varieties are have been voted among the top that Wychwood is operating at coming into the market, but Jon 10 in the whole world by full capacity brewing about also expects more TripAdvisor, so get over to 50,000 barrels a year, but there experimentation with different Witney and see for yourself. are still plenty of specials types of yeasts, and new produced in response to varieties of malt such as Vienna * Pass-up is an old English changing tastes. The and Imperial. Part of the fun of expression which, contrarily, introduction of Hobgoblin Gold brewing is trial and error. means accepting whatever beer (4.2%) in 2014 was in response you are offered. (Or not…..) to consumer demand, but that is “Breweries will look to now a permanent fixture differentiate with different alongside the original Hobgoblin (4.5%). The stronger King Goblin (6.6%) also appears in bottles.

“Demand for golden beers started about five years ago, and every major brewer now has a gold beer alongside its session bitter,” says Alex. “We were one of the first. Historically, dark beers were only drunk in winter and golden beers in summer, but that’s bunk. Supermarkets led that trend. The original Hobgoblin is still our best distributed product.”

“This is a very interesting time for brewing,” adds Jon. “The

the Oxford Drinker 7 December 2016 - January 2017 98 Pete’s Pubs

Branch chairman Pete FROM THE TITLE you would coffee liqueur. It's got some probably have guessed that smoky winter fruits stuff going Flynn reviews the these pubs are the ones relating on and some very subtle spice. ‘Scholastic Pubs of to the world of academia, Nutmeg would be the closest Oxford’ although when you enter the thing to describe it. Turf Tavern, which you will find tucked away in St Helen’s So on to my next pub which Passage, you are greeted by a was the King’s Arms in sign stating “An Education in Holywell, Street aka the KA. It’s Intoxication”. Countless just around the corner from the students over the years would Turf and adjacent to Wadham have graduated with honours! College, the freehold owner, which leases it to Young’s. This The name originated from busy city centre establishment bookmakers (turf accountants) is adorned with photos of its who used to meet on the site regular visitors over the years, dating back to around 1850. which says a lot about its The pub was built on a dry moat popularity. Allegedly, out of all that used to run around the City the pubs forming part of the Walls which were built to defend Young’s estate, this has the Oxford against Viking raids. The highest turnover of beer. high wall, which dominates the Furthermore, it is said to have pub, forms the boundary the highest IQ count per square between the pub and New foot of any pub in the world College. I often enjoy sitting based upon its student here in summer wondering at population at any time. I have to the micro-climate, as moss say that the moment I crossed seems to grow all year round the threshold the average would whilst plants grow out of the have reduced markedly! wall. On this fine autumn lunchtime I entered the pub Six real ales were available and reminding myself to stoop as I selected St Austell Brewery’s the entrance is very Tribute Ale which is a light, unaccommodating for anyone hoppy, zesty, easy-to-drink taller than 5’ 6”. Seven real ales beer. The zesty orange and were available plus two ciders grapefruit flavours are balanced and I chose Cottage Brewery’s with biscuit malt for this superb Black Diamond Traditional Mild. Cornish classic.

Black Diamond is what I would My next stop was the White definitely call a mild in the Horse in Broad Street, which is traditional mild style, and I've Oxford’s smallest pub and sells always appreciated mild style a good selection of mostly local beers. It was perhaps a bit high ales. It is famous for featuring in on the ABV (alcohol by volume) three episodes of Inspector but otherwise all of the Morse and the landlady has the ABOVE: The Kings Arms (top) and characteristics were there: very photos to prove this accolade. the Turf Tavern dark brown yet not heavy, Being opposite the Sheldonian NEXT PAGE: The Lamb and Flag in middle sweet, big on malt, low Theatre it is popular with St Giles on hops, with big flavours of tourists and students alike. It is

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a real gem of a pub and not tourists alike as it is en route to offered in my opinion the best much has changed over the the Pitt Rivers Museum. It's a kept real ale, and if you are years with its wooden panelling free house and on my visit considering running a pub then and lack of modern amenities offered a choice of six real ales visit this one to gauge what such as TV or jukebox. The and two ciders. Out of all the quality is all about. I had a pint beer is £3.90 a pint which is a pubs on my tour today, this of Tring Brewery’s Squadron tad expensive compared with Scramble. Brewed to other bars in the city, but settle commemorate the Battle of down if you can find a seat and Britain, this ale is characterised enjoy the ambience. No fewer by a debonair medium light than five real ales were colour and a dare-devil available and I opted for White maltiness that compliments a Horse Wayland Smithy, a tasty courageous hop aroma from the amber coloured beer with a thin best Mount Hood hops. It was white top offering an aroma of very tasty. hop soft fruits and undertones of caramel. I could have stayed in this pub but time did not allow so until My last pub was the Lamb and another time it's farewell from Flag in St Giles, which is owned me. I would like to acknowledge by St John’s College and Dave Richardson’s book Oxford features oars and shields from Pubs for information about pub various colleges on its walls. It history. has a timeless quality and is popular with students and www.oxfordpubhistory.co.uk

the Oxford Drinker 9 December 2016 - January 2017 98 Tony’s Travels Tony Goulding gets out and about in and around Oxford

ONE OF OXFORD’S top riverside The Kite in West Oxford is now Courage Best Bitter when he pubs, the Victoria Arms beside back serving only ales from started, and that was his last the Cherwell in Old Marston, is Greene King and its guest real ale on the day he moved preparing the “sympathetic” range, following the end of an on. development of a conservatory agreement with the previous which will increase seating and tenant to serve a range of XT Besselsleigh dining space by about 40%. The beers. This is the kind of local pub will stay open during the that deserves our support as My “Pub of the Month” for work this winter, and it should West Oxford couldn’t afford to November was definitely the be completed by the spring. lose yet another pub. Greyhound, which sits Wadworth ales are the order of alongside the busy a the day here, and I particularly Wolvercote few miles west of Oxford. Going enjoyed my pint of Swordfish. in for the first time in about 20 Heading to the northern edge of years I was surprised and Varying fortunes face five the city now, the community- pleased to find eight real ales closed pubs around the eastern owned White Hart appears to and two real ciders available, edge of the city, with the be thriving with up to three real mainly from local producers Ampleforth Arms in Risinghurst ales usually available, including including Hook Norton, West looking to have the best chance a very tasty Vale Brewery Red , Goff, Vale and of re-opening. The community Kite which I enjoyed on a recent Loddon. This is a large, group battling to save the “Amp” visit. Music nights include folk, sprawling pub with a garden, is in dialogue with Punch jazz and shanties, and there is and it serves plenty of food. As Taverns to take on the lease regular bingo plus a Farmers it is on the 66 bus route (every rather than attempt to buy it Market on Sundays. This is 30 minutes during the day), why outright. Also on the edges of another traditional pub we want not give it a try? The range of , the long-closed to succeed as its closest beers, customer service and Crown and Thistle in Old Road neighbours are more ambience are all excellent. looks increasingly derelict restaurants than pubs. The although the owner still hopes White Hart hopes to be serving to lease it out. a pub menu next year.

The locals battle on to try to Eynsham save the Jack Russell in New Marston, but it looks unlikely to Peter Jones (pictured, right) has re-open as a pub although finally hung up the towels for plans to redevelop the site with the last time at the Queen’s flats have apparently been Head, after a highly impressive withdrawn. It is however 33 years of service to the village curtains for the also long-closed community. He told us on an Fairview, as permission has earlier visit that he couldn’t been granted for it to become a make the pub pay any longer, private house (see Pub News). but Admiral Taverns has found Also closed is the Somerset in new tenants and the pub is Marston Road, leaving a big expected to re-open by the end gap between pubs in the area. of November. Peter was serving

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the Oxford Drinker 11 December 2016 - January 2017 98 Border Reiver Dave Richardson CAMRA BRANCH BORDERS, being guest ale also from the same set by postcodes, can be stable – on this occasion, discovers the pubs erratic. If you drive between Golden Cauldron (4.1%), around Long Oxford and Witney via the A44/ brewed with American hops in Hanborough and A4095 you pass North honour of Hallowe’en. The Freeland Oxfordshire branch territory in guest ale is priced at only £2.95 between, but as I didn’t know a pint which is a snip for these the pubs in these villages, I set parts, so I opted for that and out to discover them one found it tasty, but not more-ish. evening with Tony Goulding. The George and Dragon is a First stop was meant to be the very old, stone-built pub with an White House in Bladon, a ancient fireplace and wood- village known to millions as the burning stove, and inglenook to burial place of Sir Winston one side. It clearly fitted the bill Churchill in St Martin’s for Vodafone as a characterful churchyard, opposite the pub. old pub, and the extension Whether he drank in the White housing a restaurant has been House, close to Blenheim done tastefully. Manager Matt Palace, I don’t know – but I explained that it is one of five wouldn’t be surprised. I couldn’t pubs leased from CharlesWells find out any more as this food- by a small company, the others oriented Greene King pub is including the Star at closed on Mondays, so had to and Flowing Well at content myself with peering , near Abingdon. through the windows. All I could see was an IPA hand pump, It was now time to move on to indicating I hadn’t missed much the Three Horseshoes, by the beer-wise. roundabout in Long Hanborough, which immediately So it was on to the George and catches the eye because of the Dragon in nearby Long sign of long-closed Usher’s Hanborough which, curiously, brewery of Trowbridge. Today it appears in Vodafone’s is owned by Punch Taverns, but Christmas TV ad complete with although it had just the one real fake snow. This pub makes the ale available – Old Hooky most of its Churchill (4.6%) – I found our visit connections with various interesting. photos, and it was from the nearby railway station that his While the George and Dragon is funeral train arrived from food oriented, the Three in 1965. Horseshoes is a very traditional ABOVE FROM TOP: The Three drinkers’ pub with the usual Horseshoes with its Usher’s sign; This is a Charles Wells house games and jukebox – although Oxfordshire Yeoman; George and with three of its ales available – burgers are served from a ‘grill Dragon Eagle IPA (3.6%) and the more shack’ outside from Thursdays OPPOSITE: The Hand and Shears widespread and ever-reliable to Saturdays. There doesn’t at Church Hanborough Bombardier (4.1%), plus a appear to be enough demand

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for the other two hand pumps to whose cuisine has featured on Bombardier were again the real be brought into use, but local theme nights. The outside (but ales available, and there is Darren Turner and his partner under cover) pool table is sometimes a third from Charles Sarb Pall are making a go of it another odd feature, and as I Wells. Oddly there are no and keeping the flag flying for followed up my Hooky Mild with Charles Wells pubs in Oxford, traditional pubs. a very hoppy half of Lancer, I but three close together in this decided this is a pub worth a part of the world. Turning off the main road now, second visit. we headed for Freeland and, A sign over the wall reads, appropriately, another free Our final stop was at another “When you are here we are in house – the grandly named Charles Wells pub, the Hand good company”, and that Oxfordshire Yeoman, and Shears in Church certainly applies to Chris and commemorating a long-gone Hanborough, the pub sign Lynn. A list on the wall, taken regiment. This former Morrells recalling the wool industry from an old book, includes the and Greene King pub is the only which was once important in Hand and Shears among the one left in the village, having these parts. The village now Oxfordshire pubs licensed in been rescued from closure by has its own micro-brewery, 1775 – and four in Church Trevor Johnson, former landlord Church Hanbrewery, whose Hanborough! Apparently it is of the Talbot in Eynsham. beers featured at Oxford Beer one of only two pubs with this Festival but not, unfortunately, name in Britain, the other being It proved to be a revelation with in the local pub. in Smithfield, London. It may four hand pumps in use. These refer to glove manufacture were dispensing Loose This pub dates from the 17th rather than sheep shearing – Cannon’s Abingdon Bridge century and is very much a and that is very much a West (4.1%), Goff Brewery’s Lancer family affair, run by Chris and Oxfordshire tradition. (3.8%), a hard-to-find Hooky Lynn Parry with their son Mark Mild (2.8%) from Hook Norton, in charge of the extensive Reiver – Scottish dialect for and Rosie’s Pig Cider. I hadn’t dining room. Eagle IPA and robber or plunderer. seen Hooky Mild outside of the brewery and was curious about the taste, although it tasted weak as it’s been a long time since I drank anything under 3.5%.

Marston’s supplies the ales here, and others from the guest list available recently include brews from Cotleigh and North Cotswold, plus others from the Marston’s stable including Wychwood, Jennings, Ringwood and Banks’s.

Built in 1842, the pub has a very friendly feel and an eclectic menu, with pins in a map of the world indicating countries

the Oxford Drinker 13 December 2016 - January 2017 98

Pub News

SAXTON ARMS: Closed since 2014, ANGEL & GREYHOUND: Landlords Abingdon this derelict estate pub was Richard and Kathryn Gibson BREWERY TAP: It has been given ravaged by a fire which was (below) have discovered a permission to replace its investigated by the police. It was remarkable treasure trove of over traditional pub sign with a three- acquired from Greene King by 50 bottles of Young’s beer while dimensional barrel with the name property company Hawthorn renovating her parents’ house. It underneath, the latest Abingdon Leisure but sold on this year, and seems her father collected two of pub to lose its old-fashioned its future is more likely to be as a each brew, drinking one and image. shop or residential rather than a storing the other, and gems pub. BROAD FACE: Several short-term changes of management have Beckley afflicted this town centre Greene King pub, but it has now re- ABINGDON ARMS: Another opened under an enthusiastic community-owned pub might re- new landlord with an emphasis open soon as the Beckley and on real ale. The stories behind Area Community Benefit Society the unique pub name have been has raised £475,750 to acquire it written on the outside wall but from Brakspear and has been the most likely explanation is that advertising a tenancy. The 300- it was previously called the year-old pub will be the third rural Saracen’s Head and the sign got pub in this branch to become painted over. Regular ales are community-owned, and will Belhaven Prison Break, West probably become a free house. Berkshire Good Old Boy and a Loose Cannon beer; while guests at five more pumps have Faringdon included Skinner’s Betty Stogs, RED LION: The pub has a new Springhead and Oakham Green manager as Kirk Ward took over Devil IPA. in August. The Crown in Faringdon also has new managers with Matthew and Karla Townsend taking over on 24 October.

Oxford AMPLEFORTH ARMS: A meeting which may decide the future of the only pub in Risinghurst was scheduled at the time of writing, with The Amp Community group hoping to acquire the lease from Punch. The asking price was £625,000.

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TEMPLARS BAR AND KITCHEN: The CAMRA Pub Discount include Chairman’s Ale from A new Scheme gives licensees the 2006 (the year the London pub and eatery has opened in chance to promote their real ale brewery closed), D-Day Ale Barns Road, Cowley at a former offering to card carrying CAMRA (celebrating the 50th anniversary post office and latterly fish and members by offering them money in 1994) and Victory Ale (ditto, chips restaurant premises. of a pint or half pint. 1995). The couple met while Fuller’s and Greene King (IPA) are working at the King’s Arms in the regular beers and a third The pubs in our area that offer a Oxford in the 1990s, taking over pump is available for a guest discount are listed below: here in 2003. The closure of the beer. brewery – Young’s ales have Abingdon since been brewed by Charles UNIVERSITY CLUB: The Mansfield Brewery Tap Wells in Bedford – was much Road sports and leisure club, Broad Face lamented. Chairman John Young which welcomes CAMRA Kings Head & Bell died just a few days beforehand members, holds regular theme Nags Head on the Thames and his ale was served at the nights as well as serving several Narrows * funeral. real ales on the bar. For 2017 White Horse these will include: 27 January – BEERD: The last traditional pub on Chorlton Brewing of Manchester Oxford George Street, formerly the (sour beer specialists, kegs and Britannia, Headington Grapes, was still open at the time cans); and 10 February – Chequers, High Street of writing although its future was Thornbridge of Bakewell, with Four Candles * uncertain as St Austell Brewery, four casks, four kegs and 10-12 Rose and Crown which had acquired Beerd owner bottles. Provisional dates to be Royal Blenheim Bath Ales, wants to reduce its confirmed are 10 March -- Tiny Swan and Castle * pub estate. Landlord James Dixon Rebel of Newport, whose Cwtch William Morris, Cowley * has moved on to the Hop Pole in was the 2015 Champion Beer of Bath. Britain winner; and 28 April -- Witney Roosters Brewing of Yorkshire. Company of Weavers * FAIRVIEW INN: Council approval for Ye Olde Cross Keys * conversion of this Headington Pubs offer different discounts, pub into a private house ends and some discounts are available efforts to save it. The 1950s pub EAGLE: Is now offering 40p off a only at certain times or on certain was bought by someone who had pint off real ale on production of beers. Please ask at the pub to no intention of running it as a pub a CAMRA membership card. find out what is offered. An and stripped out the 1950s asterisk (*) indicates that the interior, which led to its listing on discount is in CAMRA’s National Inventory of Wheatley vouchers that are sent to all Historic Pub Interiors. RAILWAY HITEL: According to CAMRA members - note that Ye estate agency Fleurets, the Olde Cross Keys is not a SOMERSET: The fight is on to save closed Fuller’s pub’s freehold is Wetherspoon pub but does and re-open the Marston Road up for sale, a “potential accept the vouchers. pub whose closure has left a refurbishment opportunity for large area of Oxford without a licensed use” but also “potential If you know of a pub that offers a drinking hole, led by local development opportunity”. discount on beer to CAMRA councillor Mick Haines. It has Whether it re-opens as a pub members then please let us know seen various incarnations remains to be seen. at [email protected]

the Oxford Drinker 15 December 2016 - January 2017 98

A South Oxfordshire Real Ale Ramble Dick Bosley dusts off his walking boots

THE LATEST OUTING of the is very welcoming and the beer leads you on towards “Steventon Drinking Club with a very good. Wallingford. Carefully crossing Walking Problem” was a trip the A4130 and through a gate into South Oxfordshire branch From the Bear carry on through leads to a clear path coming out territory. The least said about the village, turning right at the T by Fir Tree Avenue near the the Steventon to Didcot stretch junction until you see a path on middle of town. On reaching a the better, so sensible people your right signed for Mackney. mini roundabout you will see will start this walk in Didcot, Follow this, left through several the Cross Keys (an old where they may want to add the fields until you reach Mackney, Brakspear house) on your left Prince of Wales to their list of from where there are several and across the Kinecroft a stops. It is opposite the station paths to Brightwell-cum-Sotwell. Fuller’s pub, the Coach & and in addition to the obligatory I chose to follow the road past Horses. The Kinecroft itself is two Greene King beers are a many attractive houses into a one of the finest examples of an couple of guests, some of which short stretch of countryside Anglo-Saxon town green in the have been excellent recently. before reaching more attractive country. I carried straight on to houses in B-c-S – the most the crossroads in the middle of Heading towards Wallingford attractive in my view being the town, and here I turned left into from Didcot, rather than taking Red Lion. Castle Street to reach the Keep. the road under the rail bridge, follow Marsh Lane to the right, A former South Oxon Pub of Describing itself as an Ale, Gin which is signed as a cycle route The Year (2012) it also had four and Wine Bar (there are 40+ to South Moreton where you ales – Dr Hexter’s Healer and gins available), this micro-pub turn right to North Moreton, past Good Old Boy from West opened in May 2016 in a shop the house where my Berkshire, Hoppit from Lodden previously used as a record grandfather kept his share of a and Fuller’s London Pride. The store. There are normally three wartime pig – in fact the whole pub has a reputation for good beers from Loose Cannon pig was kept there -- for the first food but still keeps the available, with others from local stop at the Bear at Home. character of a village local with brewers added when there are adverts for many events etc on functions on. Awarded Pub of the Season last display. It also has works for summer, this hosts the excellent sale from the local Artist of the Returning to the crossroads I Beer and Cricket festival every Month. turned left again towards the July with normally four ales on, river on the High Street to reach and I chose the Timothy Taylor Turning right from the pub until the Town Arms. This re-opened Landlord. The others on offer the road bends left, you carry in May 2016 (what a good were Vermont Tea Party from straight on onto a tarmac path month for the town!) after Siren, Copperhead from Hook between houses and open refurbishment. I first used this Norton, and Bear Beer brewed fields. There is one track to pub in the late 1970s and it for the pub by West Berkshire. cross and a very short stretch would not have been described The Bear has a focus on the on the road before another as salubrious then, but now it is food trade but the drinking area footpath, behind a cottage, a very welcoming and

16 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017

Pubs nominated as Assets of Community Value (ACVs) in THE WHITE HORSE branch has of nomination, which will been working with parish provide: councils to protect pubs in the area and so far seven pubs Removal of permitted have been nominated as ACVs: development rights for demolition and change of use. The Flowing Well, Material planning consideration. Sunningwell Community right to bid. The Hare, Compulsory purchase powers if comfortable. Sadly, owing to a The Hatchet, threatened with long-term loss. party the night before, only two The Plough, West of the six hand pumps were in North Star, Steventon ACV listing is a lengthy process use for Honey Monster from The Plough, Appleton supported well by some parish Butts Brewery and, my choice, The Eight Bells, Eaton councils, and CAMRA has the Surrender from White Horse. Blowing Stone, Kingston legal right to nominate pubs on Lisle its own initiative. Again heading back to the IAN WINFIELD crossroads, turn left onto St A further 15 are in the process Martin’s Street to find the Dolphin. This is a very busy pub and a regular Good Beer Guide entry, a Greene King pub that Branch Diary often has several guest ales. I Saturday 7 January tried and approved Belhaven Branch Social Ian Winfield at Gold. The branch will visit Binghams [email protected] brewery at Ruscombe, Berkshire, From Wallingford there is a winner of the Champion Beer of Saturday 18 February good bus service returning to Britain 2016. The cost of £25 Regional Meeting Abingdon, Oxford and includes transport from The first Central Southern Steventon… or you can get off , Faringdon or regional meeting in 2017 will at Milton to visit the 2015 Pub of Wantage, and three pints at the take place from 12 noon-4pm at the Year, the Plum Pudding. brewery. The return trip will call at the Bear Hotel, 14 Market Place, Abingdon Bridge and Plum the Nag’s Head in Reading and Wantage OX12 8AB. All members Pudding Ale are regulars and the Plum Pudding in Milton. are welcome to meet the regional the two guests were Deuchars Departure will be around director and chairs from local IPA and Innocence from Plain 10.30am and return around branches in Oxfordshire, Ales, which were both excellent. 8pm, and to book please contact Berkshire and . If you are that way inclined there were also four ciders available. Wantage Beer Festival Should you prefer a circular The 7th Wantage Beer Festival will take place from 11am-11pm on walk there is a path direct from Friday 17 and Saturday 18 March, 2017 at the Beacon arts and the Hithercroft part of leisure centre. White Horse branch intends to provide 28 cask ales Wallingford to North Moreton representing the best of those produced both locally and from afar, when you can then pick up this including festival specials. It will also offer about four local ciders pub-crawl. So come you Oxford and perries. and Abingdon drinkers – dust off your walking boots and/or The festival has moved from November to March, which will be the bus passes, and head south. regular slot as the venue has been secured for the next five years. the Oxford Drinker 17 December 2016 - January 2017 98 Brewery News the Medieval Abbey Buildings and Hook Norton Loddon there will be a great range of The first of its Christmas beers to With winter having arrived, Hocus local brewers’ real ale, food, be produced was Greedy Goose Pocus is back on draught. This music and guided tours of these (4.2%), the baby (gosling) brother hugely popular old ale is rich, incredible buildings throughout of the bigger, stronger Twelve ruby red and delicious -- the event. It’s a brilliant Days. This dark copper red ale everything a winter warmer opportunity to drink beer on the has an aroma of soft dark fruits should be – brewed using English site of the original Abbey Brewery with hints of blackcurrant, a Goldings and Fuggle Hops, pale and soak up some of the delightfully full flavoured beer for and dark malts, and a small centuries-old atmosphere these both the goose and the gander! amount of invert sugar, to create buildings offer. a rich, smooth traditional dark The latest limited edition ale. It was tasted recently at the Monthly special for November seasonal cask ale, Playing Hooky Red Lion, Northmoor – and was Scottish Smokehouse Ale. (4.7%), is a fruity blend of six pronounced excellent. The next brewery tour is on hops and four malts, first brewed Tuesday 12 December. in 2015 in collaboration with Loose Cannon Ballast Point Brewery from San Vale/ABC Diego, California. This latest brew It is gearing up for Christmas and is a tweak on the original recipe as usual planning to deliver a Vale beers coming soon include with Pale Milled, CaraMalt, whole range of treats for Paradise Lost, a 4% golden beer Premium English CaraMalt, Light everyone. Top of the list will be for December which “aims to Crystal and Wheat Milled malts the fourth rendition of the offer a taste of summer in the combining with Centennial, Christmas Cannon series, depths of winter”. Christmas Star Jester, UK Chinook, UK Cascade, keeping away from the at 3.6% is a roasted malty US Cascade and Fuggles hops. mainstream spiced ales so Christmas ale while Good King prevalent at this time of year and Senseless (5%) is a classic Hooky is on the lookout for local delivering something special for Christmas Ale brewed with Pale, ingredients to use in brewing and the discerning drinker. Crystal and Chocolate Malt, and you can’t get much more local whole cone hops. than the backyard of a Banbury Loose Cannon’s first venture into pub! Back in January, Jem at Ye canning happened in late Aylesbury Brewhouse Co (ABC) is Olde Reindeer Inn in Banbury November as the six-hop 4.1% also keeping busy. S*M*A*S*H decided to plant some hops in session IPA was produced in is a 4.3% pale and hoppy beer troughs, but after three months 330ml cans. Following this will be with a single malt (Maris Otter) he realised that he’d planted the 5% Pilsner and then others. and a single hop, Simcoe. Inertia them upside down. The ghost of is a 4.1 % traditional copper Oliver Cromwell was rumoured to It has taken delivery of a new bitter. have been seen shaking his head clothing range featuring some and preparing the Globe Room great looking and limited edition Mutant Ale is a 4.7% dark and for Jem’s trial, but after putting Christmas T-shirts. Every year it hoppy ale which is part of the them the right way up, they were does something unique so get Artist’s Edition range, inspired by harvested and the result is down to the shop as soon as artwork from up and coming Hopsidedown (4%), the pub- possible to not miss out on this artist Tom Rees. How on earth grown Prima Donna hops being year’s offer. can you have a black IPA? Things combined with Fuggles, Goldings mutate but call it what you want and Challenger hops along with The brewery has joined forces – it’s going to be a good one, with Maris Otter, Crystal and Enzymic with the Friends of Abingdon to £2 from every cask sold going Malt. Look out for it on the bar at organise a brand-new event, the directly to art therapy. Ye Olde Reindeer. annual Christmas Beer Festival on Friday/Saturday 9-10 For Christmas, the ABC range December. The location will be includes Reindeer (a 4.6% red

18 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017

hoppy ale); and Lord of Yule (a Both beers now go forward to the 4.2% light copper seasonal ale). Champion Beer of Britain finals Oxford Branch The Hop Pole pub in Aylesbury which will be held at the Great Contacts: acts as ABC’s brewery tap but British Beer Festival in August beers can often be found around 2017. Chairman Oxford. Pete Flynn The latest special is Firkin Ale, [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk celebrating the half century since West Berkshire David Bruce first learned to brew Secretary in 1966 at Simonds Brewery in Steve Lawrence Planning permission has been Reading. After 50 firkin years, his 01235 525436 granted for its new brewing site, [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk entrepreneurial, international and the barns have been cleared brewing career has brought him of old cow stalls and a partition back to Berkshire as chairman of Editor of the Oxford Drinker wall and packaging line created. West Berkshire Brewery. Dave Richardson The old roof will be coming off [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk and the whole site steam cleaned This traditional strong ale has an before a new roof is put on. original gravity of 1060º giving it White Horse Branch an ABV of 6%. Rich ruby in colour Contact: Two of its flagship beers, Good and packed with malt flavour [email protected] Old Boy and Maggs’ Magnificent thanks to marris otter, crystal and Mild, have won Gold in the black malts, it uses English Oxfordshire Trading London and South East Area goldings hops to give a balanced Champion Beer of Britain awards. bitterness and pleasant hoppy Standards Service: Classic bitter Good Old Boy (4%) character. Graham Hill House won Gold to top the bitter Electric Avenue category while Maggs' Yule Fuel (4.3%) is a full-bodied Ferry Hinksey Road Magnificent Mild (3.8%) was also strong beer perfect for long Oxford named category winner. Maggs winter evenings by the fire. Deep OX2 0BY has been the highest award red in colour with plenty of Tel: 01865 815000 winning beer for the brewery, caramel sweetness to balance a www.oxfordshire.gov.uk receiving 19 awards since it was full berry-fruit hop flavour with first made by brewery founder, Dave Maggs. Keeping in touch with Oxford Branch:

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the Oxford Drinker 19 December 2016 - January 2017 98 Festival Diary Compiled by Richard Queralt Further details can be found on our website www.oxford.camra.org.uk

Tuesday 29 November - 24 beers plus 2 ciders EVERYBODY READING Saturday 3 December www.salisburycamra.org.uk this is Pig's Ear Beer & Cider probably well aware of the Friday 27 - Sunday 29 many problems facing a pub in Festival these modern times. CAMRA’s Round Chapel, Glenarm Road, January Rose & Crown Beer latest published figures say that Hackney, London 27 pubs a week are closing. www.pigsear.org.uk Festival The good news is that’s down Market Street, Charlbury from 29 pubs a week in 2014; 01608 810103 Friday 9 - Saturday 10 the bad news is it’s still 27 pubs www.roseandcrown.charlbury.com December a week. That’s over 1,400 pubs

Abingdon Abbey in a year closing for good. Thursday 2 - Saturday 4 Christmas Beerfest Abingdon Abbey Buildings, February Supermarkets can still Checker Walk, Abingdon Tewkesbury Winter Ales massively undercut our beer www.friendsofabingdon.org.uk Festival prices as we are forced to raise George Watson Hall, Barton ours to cover the ever Saturday 10 December Street, Tewkesbury increasing energy bills, rates (noon - 5pm) 80 beers plus cider & perry and rents we have to pay, and Haddenham Winterfest www.tewkesbury.camra.org.uk customers have less to spend Banks Park, Banks Road, due to their own rising energy Haddenham Wednesday 22 - Saturday bills, rates and rents. Not just 40 beers plus cider & perry 25 February that but beer drinking isn’t www.haddenham-beer- National Winter Ales as popular as it once was festival.co.uk Festival either. Fifteen years ago Blackfriars Hall, St Andrews Plain, the average adult drank Friday 16 - Saturday 17 Norwich 218 pints a year, now December www.nwaf.org.uk it’s less than 150. Our Portsmouth Beer Festival brewing industry pays Portsmouth Guildhall, Guildhall Friday 24 - Saturday 25 a whopping 52.2p Square, Portsmouth February beer tax, over three www.pompeybeerfestival.co.uk Bath Cider Festival times higher than Bath Pavilion, North Parade Friday 27 - Saturday 28 Road, Bath January 100+ ciders & perries Cider Festival www.clstickets.co.uk Brunel’s Old Passenger Shed, Temple Meads Station, Bristol Friday 17 - Saturday 18 Advance ticket purchase March recommended Wantage Beer Festival 100+ ciders & perries The Beacon, Portway, Wantage www.clstickets.co.uk 28 beers plus ciders & perries www.whitehorsecamra.org.uk Friday 27 - Saturday 28 January Salisbury Winterfest British Legion Club, Endless Street, Salisbury

20 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017 Gardeners’ World Paul Silcock, landlord of the Gardeners Arms in Plantation Road, North Oxford, continues his regular column the Netherlands, the country goes on to point out that without sunny day maybe you want a with the next highest brewing BT Sport I will have no crowds, pub with a great beer garden, or figures (although anyone who’s no noise, just a delightfully a real fire on a cold winter ever bought a pint in Holland empty pub. evening. Your regular might not might be a bit surprised by that). show sport, but sometimes you On top of all these problems, I’ve always aimed to keep my want that crowded pub though, a new and bigger threat pub TV-free. One of the best atmosphere for certain events – is emerging. Being patronised pieces of advice I was ever cup finals, a specific event or out of business. given when I started in this occasion. Honestly I had a business was to run the kind of really great night in the Royal Seriously. Big business has pub you would want to go to Blenheim watching the found a strange new way to try yourself, so I kept TV screens and sell us products we don’t out of my pub. That’s not to say (although I’m happy to put this want or need. By patronising us. there’s anything wrong with TVs down to their excellent beer The first example I encountered in pubs, far from it, and that’s more than anything). was when BT sent me a letter what’s so annoying about BT’s telling me I had been selected advertising method. It utterly It’s not just BT who’ve adopted for The Quiet Pub Guide. The ignores the idea of pubs serving this method of patronising what guide? It’s a nonsense different purposes for different publicans and failing to grasp dreamt up by some advertising people. the fundamental nature of our exec. BT is trying to peddle BT business. I received a call from Sport to me because I need BT Everybody has their favourite Sky Sports which showed an Sport in my pub. Because pub, but everyone has different even more bewildering without BT Sport my business is reasons for their choice. For ignorance of the nature of pubs. doomed, obviously. Without some it’s purely for the range of Sky’s representative, in blaring TV screens, no-one beer on offer, others like the response to me saying I had no wants to go to a pub. BT’s letter particular atmosphere. On a interest in having TVs in my pub, asked the question: “Well, what do your customers do for entertainment in your pub then?” When I replied, “They talk to each other and drink beer,” she hung up on me. I was furious, she beat me to it!

But it just goes to show this new threat from patronising business is spreading. I’ll be expecting a call from a karaoke company next telling me that 80% of my customer base just wants to sing with their beer, and without their karaoke machines in every corner I run the risk of retaining all of my regular customers. And possibly attracting some new ones.

the Oxford Drinker 21 December 2016 - January 2017 98

22 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017

the Oxford Drinker 23 December 2016 - January 2017 98 40 years of Rail Ale Rambles

Dave Richardson IN APRIL 1978, while living in Rail manager at the time, who joins a London, I spent £4.50 (£25 in knew there were plenty of spare today’s money) and enjoyed a trains to charter at weekends at commemorative tour day out with a difference. I a very attractive price. RAR of five breweries joined 419 other people on a number one operated in marking a major specially chartered train October 1977 to Bath and heading for Macclesfield, Oxford, taking no fewer than milestone for the Stockport and Manchester, 596 people on a drinking spree company that brought where at each stop we took our – and what they found in Oxford real ale and rail travel pub maps and descended on all will be the subject of an article kinds of boozers to drink real in the next edition. These two together ale. cities may have coped with the crowds quite well, but when Why did we do this? Real ale RARs visited smaller places was in danger of extinction in such as Weymouth, they the 1970s, which is why literally drank the town dry of CAMRA was formed in 1971. real ale as sometimes reported London in particular was a real in local newspapers! ale desert unless you lived in the south-west suburbs around The idea proved an instant hit, the Fuller’s and Young’s as the numbers going – all breweries, but there was more recorded in Gerald’s archive – to be enjoyed in provincial prove. Operating by Crookham towns and cities. Travel, the village where he lived, RARs soon The day was a great success. I started to visit breweries at a discovered a back street pub in time when few of them Ancoats, Manchester – Hyde’s welcomed visitors. The first Jolly Angler– which is, brewery visit was to Buckley’s in amazingly, still going strong South Wales in 1978, and in today – as is Hyde’s. I wrote up 1980 visits were made to the trip for my then employer, Ruddle’s and Oxfordshire’s own Travel Trade Gazette, noting Hook Norton. that there were lots of empty seats on the train home. The The logistics were sometimes ale was so good that many very challenging, but Gerald is a passengers were never seen great organiser. Transporting no again! fewer than 579 people from Banbury railway station to Hook FROM TOP: Gerald Daniels (left) I didn’t know it then, but my trip Norton, and getting them all and Stuart Bateman at to Manchester was number round the historic brewery Bateman’s Brewery; Recalling the three in a series of Rail Ale safely, is a case in point – with seventh Ramble – the “Timothy Rambles (RARs) devised by a a fleet of coaches called into Taylor Taste” to Keighley in 1979; CAMRA member called Gerald action. Hook Norton is in fact The steam engine at Hook Norton Daniels. Gerald was a British the brewery that RARs have

24 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017

PHOTOS ON PAGE 27: Gerald Daniels with his infamous whistle; Paula and James Clarke at Hook Norton with Gerald Daniels, recalling the first Rail Ale Ramble to visit the brewery in 1980.

visited most often, with 10 visits people. To date there have people had to be repeated as taking nearly 3,500 participants been 177 RARs, with trains another 420 souls wanted to go to rural north Oxfordshire over normally used for the longer to Keighley to try the ‘Timothy the last 36 years. sections of a journey and coach Taylor Taste’ in local pubs. travel to visit breweries, with a Hopefully, these breweries will So it was appropriate that for a railway or industrial heritage agree to a visit soon.” commemorative tour to start attraction often included. Crookham Travel’s 40th Gerald founded Crookham anniversary celebrations, Hook Weekend Explorers including Travel with Sheridan Hughes, Norton was one of the five overnight accommodation who is no longer involved, but is breweries visited. Its managing started in 1979 and in 1986 now assisted by Tony Fox- director James Clarke and his came the first overseas tour, to Griffiths who became a mother Paula welcomed a party Lyon in France. Crookham customer in the 1980s and now of 79 one Sunday in October, Travel has now taken beer helps run the tours. James recalling how, as a boy, enthusiasts to no fewer than 38 he had gone down to Banbury countries as far afield as Hong “I first read about Rail Ale station to greet the special train Kong and Australia, although Rambles in What’s Brewing, from London. Fortunately, 79 most of its foreign tours are by and they seemed a great way of was a rather more manageable rail into Europe. visiting pubs and breweries,” visitor number than 579. recalls Tony. “My first trip was Every RAR or longer tour is an overnight tour to Wigan and RARs soon expanded to cover researched meticulously by Edinburgh, where we had the the whole country, including Gerald. Although long retired same compartment out and overnight trips as far afield as from British Rail and a hale and back. There were six in the Scotland. Nearly 900 brewery hearty 78, he has no plans to compartment going up but the visits have been made over the hang up the whistle summoning other four never made it back – years to 788 breweries, and people together which is a there was often a high attrition there are very few that have familiar sound on his tours. rate! Sheridan was good failed to welcome one of company and had a knack of Gerald’s tours. “I research, book, organise and getting back just in time for the act as courier on every tour, train, but once we left him Over the years the style of and research is paramount,” he behind on the platform with operation changed. Real ale says. “I will carry on as long as I arms full of fish and chips as the became more widely available enjoy doing it, and the support train pulled out. by the 1990s and the numbers is there. We have managed to going on each tour fell away, arrange tours to some “I have now been on 109 RARs while privatisation of British Rail breweries never normally open and also some weekend tours, meant that there were soon to visitors such as Donnington and seen a lot of changes. very few spare trains to charter in , which is Some people did used to get even if there were enough often considered the ‘the holy totally wrecked in the old days, people to fill them. Crookham grail of unvisited breweries’. but over the years our clientele Travel started using regular Timothy Taylor in Keighley and have aged and mellowed. service trains instead, but even Lees in Manchester are among People now fall asleep rather into the 21st century, some those we still want to visit, as in than get rowdy, but it can be tours were attracting over 100 March 1979 a full train of 420 difficult attracting new

the Oxford Drinker 25 December 2016 - January 2017 98 customers and the best way is Pateman were on hand to tell its history back to 1874. His by word of mouth. us about its range of 12 real great grandfather started ales, although it also produces brewing mainly to supply local “Crookham Travel is less of a kegs and owns about 30 pubs farmers who often paid their business, more of a club. in East Anglia. The party got workers partly in ale – hence There’s great camaraderie, and stuck in early, although one the expression “harvest beers”. going on a tour is like being part poor soul regretted (or maybe of an extended and very didn’t!) ordering a pint of Winter More than 6,000 bottles welcoming family.” Warmer when he discovered decorate the premises, thought the ABV was 9% -- it was only to be the largest collection in The 2017 programme has not 11am. My choices were the the world, and we had a been finalised but will include best bitter Russet Gold at 3.9% ploughman’s lunch before several RARs, which usually and Black Dog mild at 3.6%, touring the brewery, which still start in London but can often be which I enjoyed rather more uses some of the original joined at other places. Longer than the bottle of sour fruit beer equipment. Stuart told us that Explorer holidays will operate to we were given to take home. Bateman’s had been lucky to Slovakia, Scotland and survive in the 1980s due to a Northern Ireland, and weekends Elgood’s is unusual in claiming family dispute that nearly saw it to South West Wales and to be the only brewery still using taken over, but as a result it had Nurnberg in Germany, for the a pair of giant copper cooling to sell off many of its pubs. Its Christmas market. CAMRA trays, essential for producing best-known beers today are XB members will be made most Lambic-style Belgian beers. and XXXB, both tried with great welcome and full details are at These were duly inspected on enthusiasm. www.crookhamtravel.co.uk the tour, as Alan explained the (01252 665652). process. Real ale still accounts Bateman’s still has 68 pubs, but for 60% of Elgood’s production, Stuart told us that middle- The 40th anniversary tour and I got the impression that he ranking breweries such as this didn’t fully approve of some of sometimes had to cut Five breweries were visited on the more gimmicky production – in this case from the “Looking Forward to Forty” developments in brewing. 16,000 barrels last year to tour in October, three of these Elgood’s has had its own micro- 8,000 for 2017 – to avoid being very much “old friends” as brewery equipment for 25 punitive taxes. He hoped his they had been visited on RARs years, long before this became son and daughter would many times before. All the fashionable. continue in the family tradition, breweries presented but clearly there are many commemorative bottles of beer We now drove around The challenges. to everyone on the tour, with Wash and into to snacks, meals and plenty of visit Bateman’s brewery in We departed with draught ale included in the tour Wainfleet, near Skegness, commemorative bottles of a price. passing pubs along the A52 7.5% Vintage Ale brewed to a with the brewery’s “good honest 50-year-old recipe, and quite a The party of 79 met at King’s ales” slogan. Some participants few passengers were asleep as Cross station on a Saturday on this tour – including a few we crossed into morning to travel to Downham who went on that first trip to for our final brewery visit, to Market in Norfolk where two Bath and Oxford nearly 40 Belvoir at Old Dalby. We didn’t coaches awaited. First stop was years ago – recalled previous tour this modern brewery but at Elgood’s in Wisbech, visits to Bateman’s, when every could view it from the visitor , which was passenger on the special train centre and dining room where staging a Society of arriving at Wainfleet station was we enjoyed a much appreciated Independent Brewers (SIBA) welcomed with a handshake. steak pie dinner. festival on the same day. Stuart Bateman from the fourth Belvoir brewery started in 1995 Brewing started on this riverside generation of the family is now in other premises, but moved to site in 1795, with the Elgood in charge and welcomed us in the present site nine years ago. family taking over in 1878. Nigel the old windmill where the Manageress Di Login explained Elgood and head brewer Alan visitor centre is located, tracing that its beers were now

26 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017 available in nearly 300 pubs steam, and the 1899-built steam the band with all their and retail outlets, but had a engine still works on special instruments came to our final cautionary tale about a certain occasions, such as our visit. An stop a few miles away, Clouded well-known supermarket which integral part of the tour is a visit Minds brewery just over the welcomed its beers at first but to the stables where the giant border in Warwickshire, in then “made life difficult”. The shire horses can be admired – Lower Brailes village. The band beers we tried were a rather they still deliver beer to pubs in was superb but I found the puny tasting Whippling at 3.6%, the village once a week. small brewery, in a modern and the much more palatable industrial unit, rather a Beaver Bitter at 4.3% and Old The principle of a tower brewery disappointment after the glory of Dalby ruby ale at 5.1%. is that all the ingredients are Hook Norton. hoisted or pumped to the top By the time we reached our and then come down by gravity Clouded Minds moved here hotel in Leicester it was nearly – an ecological and cost- from London to premises 9pm, and there were few takers effective method. According to previously occupied by Whale for more beer despite the English Heritage, the mill for Ale, and a brewer called Oddly undoubted delights of the city’s processing malted barley is the also makes beers here. I didn’t pubs. We enjoyed a good last of its kind. particularly like the Clouded breakfast in the morning prior to Minds beers I tried, these being two more brewery visits as we There had been plans for a Hazelnutter (5%) and Luppol headed towards my home Hook Norton Brass Band (4.2%), the former flavoured territory. concert at the Pear Tree pub in with Italian hazelnuts. But I the village, but apparently the daresay these quirky drinks are First stop however was at pub didn’t want to host this so popular with some younger Toddington in Gloucestershire, drinkers, and local free houses for the usual railway or including the Chester may offer industrial heritage attraction them. included on most tours. Here we travelled on the narrow Gerald’s whistle sounded gauge North Gloucestershire announcing it was time to head Light Railway rather than the to the station for the trip home, standard gauge Gloucestershire leaving us all to reflect on a very and Warwickshire Railway enjoyable and indeed historic which also operates here. After weekend. Do give Crookham our “fix” of steam we headed to Travel a try – the combination of the only pub we would visit all great ales, good company and weekend, the Pheasant Inn at rail travel will appeal to many as Toddington, run by Donnington it certainly did to me. Brewery which had been visited for the first time on tour (it DAVE RICHARDSON doesn’t usually accept visitors) only in 2016.

It was then on to the highlight for many visitors, Hook Norton, for a sandwich and pork pie lunch before touring the “tower” brewery, claimed to be the finest example of this Victorian design still extant. Brewing started on a farm here in 1856, the tower brewery being built in 1872, and the original chimney was restored in 2014 with a Heritage Lottery Fund grant. Originally it was powered by

the Oxford Drinker 27 December 2016 - January 2017 98

28 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017 Roarsome! Graham Shelton, chairman of the company that bought the Red Lion at Northmoor for the community, continues his regular column IS THERE MAGIC still in the world? steps that are so difficult, from the right building, the right I’m writing this on All Hallows beer-fuelled idea to the hard expertise and the right Eve, when the curtain between reality of raising several circumstances to succeed. the living and the dead parts for hundred thousand pounds by Even with all of those not a moment and chilling spirits selling shares to local people, everyone makes it, so it was slip through to stalk the world. and finding a way to manage really exciting to hear from my …. the whole process through to a friend Mike Hobbs that he and legal and successful live his team in Beckley have just All this spooky stuff set me business. raised a staggering £440,000 thinking about some of the and will be putting in an offer for awesome (should that be There is some help to be had. the Abingdon Arms with just two roarsome?*) things that impact All the community pubs that I weeks to go before its ACV on our lives. Everyone knows know are doing well (some expires. Hopefully by the time that Father Christmas visits exceptionally so) and are this is published their efforts will every child in the world on peopled with real enthusiasts be crowned with success and Christmas Eve (approximately very keen to share their they will be embarking on the 233 million visits, apparently), knowledge and experience. I’m next phase of refurbishing the and travels a distance of some aware of the following in or near building and finding the right 510 million km in so doing. our area: people and the right processes Heaven knows how many to re-open their beloved local. mince pies he gets through, or The Seven Stars, Marsh Baldon Can’t wait to give it a try. gallons of whisky and sherry. The Red Lion, Northmoor Never mind those poor reindeer The Bull, Great Milton Our own experience at the Red travelling at rocket speed. The Plough, Great Haseley Lion in Northmoor shows that The Plough, while the brewery business Personally, I’ve never had a The White Hart, Wolvercote model often doesn’t work any problem with any of this, as it more in a small pub, a obviously involves some potent If you know of more do let me community business model magic, and us mere mortals can know, via the editor. I have in most definitely can. A warm just stand back and marvel at a mind to organise some sort of welcome, good beer, good food constitution that can community pub get-together and good company are a accommodate that amount of before too long, and those with seductive and potentially whisky without turning nasty. a desire to start a community profitable combination. pub will certainly be welcome to Importantly, there are lots more But when it comes to saving come. pubs out there with the potential your pub, standing back and to become the thriving marvelling will not be enough; District Councils are often very community hubs we all love so we can’t magic every Asset of helpful, and organisations such much. Community Value (ACV) into a as the Plunkett Foundation also thriving community venture. offer advice, help and even Let’s make it happen. You can This is a shame because it’s some government money (albeit borrow my magic wand if you generally fairly easy to with strings). like! designate a failing pub as an ACV, giving the community six It’s an arduous journey utterly Roarsome: even more awesome months to raise the money to reliant on grit, unfailing energy, than awesome! (See The Oxford put in a bid. It’s those pesky good fortune, good leadership, Drinker Number 97).

the Oxford Drinker 29 December 2016 - January 2017 98

Brewer for a day

Pete Flynn tries his TO SAY I was absolutely These enzymes then begin to hand at brewing delighted, and surprised, when convert the starches in the my neighbour asked me if I grains into sugars. real ale wanted to join him at our local brewery, Loose Cannon, for the The next step in the brewing day would have been an process is the take the mash, understatement – especially and separate out the spent when it involved brewing and grain from the sugary liquid sampling the beers. Ironically, known as wort (pronounced the background to this wert). This process is called opportunity arose from my lautering. I had fun shovelling unsuccessful bid for tickets at a the spent mash into the truck charity auction where, which is then given to farmers unbeknown to me, my for animal feed. It was hard neighbour, sitting several rows work but I was grateful as it was behind, was prepared to pay a a cold day and I began to feel little more than I had budgeted. quite hot on this cold Monday morning, with steam from the Brewing involves an early start. wort rendering my glasses Head brewer Chris Ward was useless. there to meet us upon our arrival at 8am, and had already Chris told us that once the been preparing the process and sweet wort has been separated ingredients for the first brew from the grains, it is brought to which was a seasonal beer “42 a strong, prolonged boil for 90 Pounder”. Chris explained that minutes to sterilise the beer and creating a brew involves a also to break down hops which consistent approach coupled can be added at the start to with using the finest quality provide bitterness. Chris added ingredients, so you always end that hops later in the boil don’t up with a great tasting beer. bitter the beer all that much, but There are several skill sets instead lend flavour and aroma. involved which to my simple This is because in addition to approach included knowledge alpha acids, hops also contain of chemistry cookery and highly volatile, and very pungent engineering. oils, which break down quickly in boiling water. However if only My first job involved pouring exposed to the boiling wort for a bags of Maris Otter malt, and short period of time, or at lower various salts, into the vessel temperatures, hops will release containing the hot water which these oils and lend aromatics has to be at a precise and flavour to the beer which is temperature when the magic the preferred method at Loose starts to happen. The heat from Cannon; historically Loose the water (referred to as liquor Cannon beers tend to have a in breweries) activates the certain sweetness. enzymes within the barley.

30 the Oxford Drinker 98 December 2016 - January 2017

The 90 minutes were up so the establish if the yeast was wort was then sent to a effective, as yeast cells have a whirlpool to collect any hop tendency to die after successive matter and coagulated proteins usage. From the moment the that have accumulated, whilst yeast is added it gets to work adding aromatic hops – the best eating the sugars that were bit in my opinion, that created during the mash. As intoxicating smell! The wort is they consume the sugar, the then immediately cooled since yeast expels carbon dioxide the beer will begin to oxidise and alcohol, as well as a variety and produce off flavours almost of flavour compounds that vary immediately at these greatly depending on the temperatures. It's quite amazing specific strain of yeast, and to see how the different fermentation temperature of the processes are fully automated, beer. Oxford and for a novice like myself it would be a formidable task to Let the fermentation process Branch have to memorise the begin; it was time for a beer and procedure. also to visit front of the brewery Diary to pick up a free sample. I Once the wort has been cooled, would like to thank Chris and Monday 9 January it is moved to a fermenter, his team for a fantastic time, which is usually just a large and hopefully they will offer Branch Meeting stainless steel vat. Chris had similar tours to like-minded 7.30pm checked the yeast earlier using individuals. At the The Newlands Inn, a microscope and dye to PETE FLYNN Newland Street, Eynsham. Meet beforehand from 6.30pm at the Queens Head, Queen Street. Note that this is a week later than normal.

Saturday 14 January Branch Social 1.00pm Joint Social with White Horse and South Oxfordshire branches at the Brewery Tap, Ock Street, Abingdon.

Saturday 28 January Branch Social 1.00pm Social gathering at the Rose and Crown Beer Festival, Market Street, Charlbury. Easily accessible by bus and train from Oxford.

the Oxford Drinker 31