AFTER THE MOVING TRAGEDY MADONNA BADGER BACK PICTURES ON THE JOB. PAGE 8 INSTAGRAM’S BIG NEWS AND ITS IMPACT ON BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY FASHION. PAGE 3 A tête-à-tête with Christian Louboutin. Page 4

ACQUISITIONS ON HOLD PVH Putting Focus On Tommy, Calvin By DAVID LIPKE

PVH CORP. WILL be on the sidelines of the acquisi- tions arena for at least the next two years as it com- pletes its unexpectedly bumpy integration of The Warnaco Group Inc., emphasized PVH chairman and chief executive offi cer Emanuel Chirico at the com- FRIDAY, JUNE 21, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY pany’s annual meeting on Thursday in New York. WWD “They are all off the table,” he said of potential deals, during an interview following the meeting. “The only things you will see are a continual process on Tommy [Hilfi ger] and Calvin [Klein], investing in those businesses. Some of those investments might be taking back geographic regions, product categories, franchises, distributors — those will be the type of very small acquisitions we’d be thinking of. But no brands for the next 24 months. We have enough to focus on, and there’s plenty of room for growth.” PVH closed its acquisition of Warnaco in February for $2.9 billion, bringing the latter’s Calvin Klein underwear and jeans businesses into the PVH port- folio, which includes ownership of the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfi ger brands. In March, PVH said in- vestments needed to upgrade the Warnaco business would be higher than initially anticipated and those costs would dilute its 2013 adjusted earnings by 25 cents a share, rather than add 35 cents as it originally forecast last October. “This year we’ve really characterized, from a fi - nancial point of view, 2013 as a transition year. We are stabilizing the Warnaco businesses, integrating those Warnaco businesses, beginning to put them on our systems and operating platform,” said Chirico to shareholders. “We are investing in those brands and those product categories — jeans and Calvin Klein un- derwear — and at the same time looking to make in- vestments in some of [Warnaco’s] heritage businesses, particularly Speedo and Warner’s, as we go forward.” The combined companies generate revenue of $8.1 billion, behind only VF Corp.’s $10.9 billion in revenue among the largest U.S. branded apparel companies. SEE PAGE 9

OBITUARY Jean-Louis Scherrer, 78

By JOELLE DIDERICH

PARIS — Jean-Louis Scherrer, the French couturier whose fans included Jacqueline Kennedy and Sophia Loren, died in Paris on Thursday at the age of 78. The designer passed away at the Jeanne Garnier palliative care clinic in the French capital’s 15th ar- rondissement after a 10-month illness, said Guillaume Feugeas, his right-hand man of more than a decade. Funeral services will be held on Wednesday at 10:30 a.m. at the crematorium of the Père Lachaise Cemetery in northeast Paris. Scherrer is survived by his former wife, Laurence, and his daughters Laetitia, a model and animal rights activist, and Leonor, a designer and muse to Givenchy artistic director Riccardo Tisci. Hubert de Givenchy mourned the loss of one of his Face It peers. “He brought his talent and his name to Paris In one of the more directional moves fashion,” de Givenchy said. “In person, he was dis- of the season, Tom Ford has created creet, well brought up and a very kind friend.” a men’s skin-care line in the guise of Scherrer’s last public outing was in July of 2012, when he went to see Raf Simons’ fi rst couture col- a male grooming collection, including lection for Dior. Since then, he had left the hospital a Skin Revitalizing Concentrate, priced only once, to celebrate his birthday in February at home with friends, said Dior’s Bernard Danillon, $150, and an Oil-Free Daily Moisturizer who was among the guests. for $105. It is all part of Ford’s master Scherrer’s ties to Dior date back to the early days of plan to build a luxury goods empire, which his career. Born in Paris in 1935, he had dreamed of be- coming a dancer. When an injury dashed his prospects, is well under way. For more see page 6. he switched to sketching. He studied at the School PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 21, 2013

Arcadia Eyeing More U.S. Doors THE BRIEFING BOX Nordstrom operating Topshop Selfridge shows Miu Miu-esque IN TODAY’S WWD By DAVID MOIN boutiques, currently at 15 dresses with “Peter Pan” collars Nordstrom locations. and shoulder details; pinafores BRITAIN’S Arcadia Arcadia officials de- with monochrome tops and bur- Group is looking to clined comment on the gundy shirtings with “pussy” build its presence in Miss Selfridge report. bows; leather dresses with laser- Diana Ross the U.S., and not just Topshop is well cut work, and long beaded dress- performs at the with Topshop. known in the U.S., where es. The premium line from the Louvre. For more, Arcadia this week it already operates four Wallis collection, called W, offers see WWD.com staged its first U.S. brick-and-mortar stores, animal prints; shifts with biker “group preview” of its as well as inside some jackets and faux fur trim decon- Miss Selfridge, Evans, Nordstrom stores, but structed parkas; knits with stud Dorothy Perkins and the other Arcadia labels detailing, and tuxedo trousers. Wallis brands at the are less known and are Dorothy Perkins emphasizes Bryant Park Hotel only available online in modern and clean-cut daywear, in Manhattan. And the U.S. opulent, embellished casualwear behind the scenes, Asked why Arcadia and statement eveningwear. Arcadia is in talks decided to stage a Evans, which sells sizes 12 to 28, DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE with Nordstrom preview for the fash- showed off its colorblocking for and Macy’s re- ion media, Saskia summer, and the quirky signature PHOTO BY garding selling Osmond-Evans, animal prints and jumpers from Miss Selfridge head of press for the husband-wife design team in those stores. Arcadia, said, “It’s Clements Ribeiro. Evans also At PVH Corp.’s annual meeting on Thursday, Emanuel Sources said to get the conver- features cocoon coats, and pear- Chirico emphasized that the firm is putting acquisitions on either retailer sation going.” cut denims, which are cut higher hold as it completes its unexpectedly bumpy integration of could start sell- She did say in the nape for greater support The Warnaco Group Inc. PAGE 1 ing the label by that Evans, a and better fit. the end of this plus-size col- The Arcadia brands are well- Jean-Louis Scherrer, the French couturier whose fans year or next year, lection, will be established in the U.K. and cater A style from Miss Selfridge. included Jacqueline Kennedy and Sophia Loren, died in Paris on but it couldn’t rolled out to to different demographics and Thursday at the age of 78. PAGE 1 be determined more Nordstrom lifestyles. The Arcadia Group is if Arcadia was seeking shops- doors, from the current six. owned by Sir Philip Green. Instagram said Thursday it would integrate video into its in-shop for Miss Selfridge, Among the highlights from — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS similar to its partnership with the fall 2013 collections, Miss FROM SAMANTHA CONTI platform in a move that could have major implications for the fashion world’s digital efforts. PAGE 3

Christian Dior has signed on as lead sponsor of the Guggenheim International Gala, to be held in a two-part event Edwards Tapped to Head Nike Brand on Nov. 6 and 7. PAGE 3 product and merchandising with than 30 years and I will miss him. By ARNOLD J. KARR oversight of footwear, apparel We have a thoughtful succession Tom Ford will launch his first men’s luxury grooming collection, and equipment. strategy in place and have built aimed at remedying men’s everyday skin problems. Page 6 STEWARDSHIP OF the Nike Thomas Clarke, president of a highly experienced, consum- brand will pass to Trevor new business development, will er-focused executive manage- Madonna Badger, who has endured unimaginable tragedy, Edwards in a far-ranging reor- become president of innovation, ment team with the expertise, is back at work at the Badger & Winters ad agency in New York ganization at Nike Inc. made in leading the company’s advanced acumen and brand knowledge with a sharpened sense of resolve. Page 8 advance of Charlie Denson’s re- product innovation teams and required to continue to build tirement in January. the sustainable business and sustainable growth for Nike Inc. The Liaisons au Louvre benefit gala Tuesday night in Paris Edwards, currently executive innovation, or SB&I, team. for the long term.” drew a power-packed crowd. PAGE 10 vice president of brand and cat- Hannah Jones will remain vice The reorganization affects egory management at Nike, will president of SB&I and report to dozens of executive-level posts Ashlea Halpern, editor of Strategist, New York magazine’s succeed Denson as president of Clarke while continuing to re- throughout the company. service section, is the latest senior staffer to jump ship at the the Nike brand on July 1. His re- port to Mark Parker, president Jayme Martin, currently vice sponsibilities will include Nike; and chief executive officer of the president and general manager publication. Page 11 the Jordan brand; action sports, Beaverton, Ore.-based company, of global running, will move up to including Hurley; digital brand, on policy matters relating to sus- the same title for global catego- Colin Henry has been tapped as chief executive officer of and brand management through- tainability and labor practices. ries. Among those reporting to him Jaeger, which was acquired by the private equity firm Better out the world. In an integration Edwards, Sprunk, Jackson will be Patrick Seehafer, Dermott Capital in April 2012. PAGE 11 of omnichannel activities, whole- and Clarke will report to Parker, Cleary and Dirk-Jan van Hameren, sale, retail and e-commerce oper- as will such current direct-re- who have been named vice presi- ON WWD.COM ations will fall under his purview. ports as Hilary Krane, general dents and general managers of Eric Sprunk, currently execu- counsel; Don Blair, chief finan- Nike Running, Nike Football and EYE: Diana Ross performed a medley of hits to cap off the Liaisons tive vice president of merchan- cial officer, and Jim Calhoun, Nike Sportswear, respectively. dising and product, has been president and ceo of Converse. Nike reports fourth-quarter au Louvre benefit gala in Paris. For more, see WWD.com. named to the new post of chief Krane and Blair are executive and full-year financial results on operating officer of Nike Inc. vice presidents of the company. Thursday. Through the first nine CORRECTIONS with responsibility for manu- Denson has been with Nike months of its fiscal year, ended facturing, sourcing, information for 34 years and has served as Feb. 28, net income rose 8.5 per- Vince Camuto owns 49 percent of Bernard Chaus Inc. The technology and procurement as brand president since 2006. cent to $1.82 billion as revenues remaining 51 percent is owned by the Chaus family. This well as continued oversight of “Charlie’s contributions to were up 8.9 percent to $18.62 bil- information was incorrect in a story on page 1, Wednesday. supply chain innovation. Nike are deeply significant and lion. Year-to-date footwear and Coach will continue its joint venture with El Corte Inglés and Jeanne Jackson, president of he’s helped build the brand apparel sales rose 8.9 and 8.2 currently does not have plans to buy back its interest. This direct-to-consumer, will move around the world,” Parker said. percent, respectively, to $10.65 was incorrect in a story on page 7, Thursday. to the new post of president of “I’ve worked with him for more billion and $5.13 billion.

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WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 21, 2013 3 WWD.COM Instagram Video Presents Opportunity for Brands one-year-old social media en- on Instagram got more than 2,000 digital agencies to “show their generate at least $25 million for By RACHEL STRUGATZ tity Vine — which allows users “likes” within three minutes. chops.” She believes digital agen- its clients collectively by yearend. to create six-second videos to If Instagram has a platform cies will be the big beneficiary with “Instagram was the first com- NEW YORK — Instagram said share with followers — and the where users can produce vid- this rollout as they now have an ad- pany who was really able to crack Thursday it would integrate release of Vine for Android on eos that have the same aspi- ditional platform to accelerate the the code around photos and build video into its platform in a move June 3. Vine has more than 13 rational look and feel as still adoption and growth of products. a mobile experience that is really that could have major implica- million users. photographs for consumers, this But for retailers — what Mulpuru engaging for users. We pull in so tions for the fashion world’s Topshop chief marketing offi- means a lot of additional content calls organizations where “not ev- much content from Instagram, digital efforts. cer Justin Cooke calls Instagram from brands could be coming. eryone has even found blockbuster [and] the content is so relevant At a press event at Facebook’s the most aspirational of all the For retailers and designers, it success from any social networks to fashion and beauty. We see the headquarters in Menlo Park, social channels. could be an even more profound in general” — it remains to be seen conversion and the engagement Calif., Instagram cofounder Kevin “Instagram is such a beauti- medium for brand evangelists to how successful video will be. and interactions with brands Systrom revealed that the plat- ful site, the nature of the tools engage with their followers. “They [Facebook and there,” Olapic cofounder and form will launch 15-second vid- they provide you with makes you “Now, everyone can be one Instagram] need to play in video, chief technology officer Luis Sanz eos for iOS and Android devices, set the bar higher and feel like of the best videographers or and this is a way to play in video. said. “This will be game changing cinematographers in the world. They know the young audience in the consumer space to create Instagram turned everyone into loves Instagram, so [they said] cinematic content relating to a a photographer overnight. If let’s introduce this other feature brand that quite possibly will be they can do that with video, it that can help enhance what al- more engaging than photos.” will completely democratize a ready exists within Instagram.” With the addition of video on whole industry and the way peo- However, the challenge with Instagram, Sanz predicts that the ple view content,” Cooke said. video is that it takes more time ROI here could be “massive.” Online videos — especially to view — and users can’t scroll Shortly following the an- those living on YouTube — have through video the way they do nouncement of the function’s started to result in significant images, Mulpuru said. But for release, Leandra Medine of The return on investment for brands her, it ultimately comes down Man Repeller posted three vid- like Topshop and even Chanel to great content. eos to Instagram, where she has and Calvin Klein. Charity: Water, a nonprofit almost 350,000 fans. The first — Calvin Klein chief executive group dedicated to bringing clean which features an ecstatic-about- officer Tom Murry told WWD last drinking water to those in devel- video, blazer-clad Medine with month that its “Push Positive” oping countries, was included a caption reading “Instagram campaign, featuring a video star- among the featured users during video psych patient off meds re- ring Lara Stone that garnered 11 Systrom’s keynote speech. The alness” — racked up almost 5,000 million views on YouTube and 450 organization, which has 115,000 “likes” in just two hours. million impressions, resulted in the followers, released its first video She contends that filming vid- biggest bra launch in the brand’s on Instagram with a woman from eos on Instagram comes more history. Calvin Klein has yet to join India — the next country Charity: naturally because users are al- Instagram, but the brand is on Vine Water will move into. ready familiar with the app. It’s a Leandra Medine of The Man Repeller’s first video on Instagram. and kicked off a Super Bowl cam- According to Charity: Water di- tool that can help leverage one’s paign with videos on the platform. rector of digital Paull Young, one existing audience on the platform 13 custom-designed filters, the you shouldn’t post bad pictures However, for Sucharita of the most important functions of — as well as reach new users. ability to select a cover frame and on there,” Cooke told WWD from Mulpuru, vice president and Instagram is allowing the people “This is how a photographer Cinema — a stabilization tool that Cannes, France, on Thursday. principal analyst at Forrester who support the organization to must feel when they get a new eradicates wobbly video takes. “They’ve [Facebook and Research, the jury is still out see the impact they are making. camera. This is like a totally Instagram was acquired by Instagram] got the scale. You don’t about the effect Instagram’s im- “We always talk about how we new social medium for me. And Facebook for about $1 billion in have to be the first; you have to be plementation of video will have can shrink time and shrink dis- I don’t have to learn anything April of 2012, and according to the best. We already have a video on brands and retailers. tance — and how we can connect new,” Medine said, adding, “I re- Systrom, 130 million people use for Instagram ready to post.” “Adding video on top of it our donors and our fund-raisers ally love Vine and I feel a little Instagram on a monthly basis. Topshop has 1.06 million fol- doesn’t really change the story and the people that benefit from sorry for them because this will In the little over two-and-a-half- lowers on Instagram, and follow- in a huge way because retailers clean water in the field. Video just steal the show from them. I used years since its inception, 16 bil- ing Victoria’s Secret, Nike and are just trying to figure out how lets us go deeper,” Young said. Vine last fashion week.” lion photos have been shared, Forever 21 (with 2.08, 1.64 and 1.35 static 2-D images can enhance Two-year-old Olapic, a technol- In terms of how it will affect and the platform sees over one million followers, respectively) is their businesses. That book has ogy solution that melds content the fashion world, she thinks the billion “likes” every day. among the most popular fashion yet to be written still,” Mulpuru generated via social platforms video functionality was rolled The implementation of video brands on the platform. Cooke has said, adding that when she looks and the e-commerce experience, out at the perfect time. will mark the first major evolu- observed that the Instagram user at the opportunity for brands, it’s works with clients such as Nasty “Fashion people have about tion to the platform, and the in- is the most engaged user of any so- sometimes the younger brands — Gal, Coach and Lululemon to in- three months to get themselves dustry is abuzz about the poten- cial media platform. The volume like five-year-old accessories line crease cost-to-conversion rates acquainted with producing tial short- and long-term impact of people who comment and “like” Dannijo — that are finding suc- through Instagram. Through ana- videos on the app. By the time it could have on an increasingly is significantly higher as a propor- cess through Instagram rather lyzing and connecting user-gener- New York Fashion Week rolls social fashion and retail space. tion of Topshop’s fan base — and than established companies. ated content from various social around, people will be so used This follows Twitter’s acqui- this is a pattern he’s seen across She does view this addition to media with the e-commerce ex- to making videos that it will sition in October of last year of most brands. Topshop’s first video Instagram as another format for perience, Olapic estimates it will overtake photos.”

tions have referenced the work exhibit opened this week at the of Robert Ryman and Wool. “He Park Avenue Armory]. That was Dior, Guggenheim to Party is the artist who baffled the gen- the generation that pulled me in, eration of artists that awakened and since that period art has be- A SPLASHY STAPLE of the But back to the party. Adding tions included sweaters bear- my interest in art,” said Simons, come a daily part of my life.” fall New York social calendar Dior to the invitation ups the ing artwork by Pablo Picasso, noting that the timing of Wool’s As Simons sees it, align- is getting splashier. WWD has glamour angle considerably. or in his own line. His fall 2007 retrospective at the Guggenheim ing with a major museum like learned that Christian Dior has The GIG, as the museum’s an- show featured a revolving sculp- is purely coincidental. “The the Guggenheim is only natu- signed on as lead sponsor of the nual and most important fund- ture by English artist Conrad Eighties generation — Cindy ral for Dior. When researching Guggenheim International Gala, raiser is known, has been Shawcross in the middle of the Sherman, Richard Prince, Paul the house, Simons learned that to be held in a two-part event on around forever, usually draw- runway, while his men’s collec- McCarthy [whose NC-17 “WS” prior to going into fashion design, Nov. 6 and 7. The first night will ing a mix of older socialites and Christian Dior was a gallerist. “He be hosted by the Guggenheim’s major artists. “Often we have had very strong connections to art Young Collectors Council and an auction. Not a large auction. — Salvador Dalí, the main artists will feature a yet-to-be-named Normally, just five or six pieces,” of his time,” said Simons, “which musical guest, followed by the said Jennifer Blei Stockman, is not known to everybody.” benefit dinner the second night. president of the Solomon R. More well-known is Bernard Dior and the Guggenheim an- Guggenheim Foundation, who Arnault’s passion for the art world. nounced their party partnership will serve as the GIG’s honorary The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Thursday morning at a press con- cochair with Simons. “It’s very Vuitton and Dior honcho has one of ference held at The Wright, the elegant, but this time a lot is the most impressive art collections museum’s restaurant, where Dior changing because Christian Dior the world over, and his patronage artistic director Raf Simons and is an active partner. The whole extends beyond a personal collec- Guggenheim director Richard company is very, very art savvy.” tion, particularly at Louis Vuitton, Armstrong issued a veritable Indeed, Simons is an avid art where an arts connection has be- save-the-date before opening enthusiast, partial to contempo- come integral to the house. Perhaps a preview of the Guggenheim’s rary art, which has significantly that’s the plan at Dior as well. As of James Turrell light installation, influenced the Dior aesthetic now, Dior is signed on only for this “Aten Reign,” which opens Friday since his arrival at the house last year’s GIG, but as Simons said, “It in the museum’s rotunda. Turrell year. A potent art quotient has would be fantastic to develop an and artist Christopher Wool, always been present in Simons’ amazing relationship between two whose retrospective goes up in work, whether at Jil Sander, Aten Reign, 2013 historical houses for the future.” — JESSICA IREDALE October, are the gala’s honorees. where one of his last collec- YORK NEW FOUNDATION, GUGGENHEIM R. SOLOMON © HEALD DAVID BY PHOTO 4 WWD friday, june 21, 2013 Christian Louboutin, the Shoemaster In a world of endless hyperbole, it’s thing that I wanted in a gal- difficult to overstate the aura of Christian lery in Paris and the guy louboutin. one of the great gods of fash- wouldn’t sell it to me. But I ion, he has, along with Manolo Blahnik, knew the guy, it was a guy remained at the pinnacle of the foot-cen- named Eric Philippe [owner tric fascination that has pulsed through, of Galerie Eric Philippe]. and to a large degree fueled, fashion for at one point, he said, “So well more than a decade. what about your shoes? louboutin is a seductive charmer what about your design- — talkative, interesting and ing?” and I said, interested, a natural conversa- “well, I stopped tionalist. not that he considers designing shoes. I “natural” a condition of supe- started doing land- riority. why should people not scaping.” He said work on themselves, he theo- “really? But you rizes? does making an effort miss shoes.” I was with one’s presentation make a 27, and I said, “I person less smart, less sophisti- do, because the cated, less genuine? rhetorical complicated issue questions, at least to a guy who Bridget Foley ’s is you have to be champions the power of the Diary very patient to be five-inch heel. a landscape archi- louboutin talked with tect, and I’m really wwd on Tuesday morning, just after he not patient.” toured his glamorous new 1,600-square- foot shop-in-store at Saks Fifth avenue, WWD: You’re not patient? his brand’s first such retail outpost in C.L.: no. In your 20s, you’re the United States. not patient, or you really are special. I said, “I miss it, WWD: So, tell me a little bit about the shop. because designing shoes, ev- Why did you select Saks for your first U.S. erything that has to do with shop-in-store? fashion, you welcome impa- Christian Louboutin: with me, it’s always very tience.” He said, “why don’t personal. and I’ve known ron [Frasch] you do the thing yourself?” now for all of my professional life. He would have said anything to get rid of me at this point. WWD: So there’s a comfort factor. “at the end of the gallery, C.L.: ron has always been supernice. there is this little place...” also, he is someone who likes to speak, So, I looked at the place. who likes to move, et cetera. [The deci- sion included] my team, because, alexis WWD: And that was it? [Mourot], who is my chief operating offi- C.L.: Two days later, or some- cer, is really taking care of that. But it’s thing like that, I had din- also definitely a man-to-man thing. ron ner with Bruno and Henri. is superenthusiastic. The business side, Henri said, “ Yo u have been of course, is important, but [so is] the en- designing forever. let’s do thusiasm which goes with it. If I like the it. It’s not that difficult.” So people, I can keep on with the project. It we started with that shop, sort of makes sense and is not complicat- which I still have. ed to do a meeting. WWD: How have you resisted WWD: Relationships are so important outside investment? in this business. C.L.: designing is very, very C.L.: of course, you may have to do things personal to me. an impor- with people you don’t necessarily like, tant element of my charac- but you go much further with people you ter is that I’m a free person. do like. I’m someone who always thinks There is no doubt, you can — when it’s about my design, when it’s feel more protected if you about my friendship, my love, et cetera — are under a group. But if definitely long-term. I’m quite obsessed you’re under the umbrella with long-term. In the company, if I have of a group, you’re also under to hire someone, and now alexis knows, the spell of a group. and I if the person has been [at other places] don’t think I need that…. six months and then three months and Sometimes you sort of have LE ERICKSEN y

then six months, it will never happen. to value the importance of K one of the first things that I’m watching the nonimportant. for on the CVs is the sort of person who has been in place for a long time. WWD: That’s a great line. photo by C.L.: when I started, there WWD: Where does that come from? was a guy who I knew a bit in the fashion happy that I kept my way….I don’t have ceived, I realized that a lot of people I C.L.: I was brought up with a family that industry. He told me, “You have two ways this problem of waking up and thinking, didn’t know had been supportive of my was very stable. My father was always to start a company. one way, you start by “I have to explain myself to people.” case. and the funny thing is that there with my mother, et cetera. I never even yourself, so you’re literally in a cellar, had been this david against Goliath, saw fights. It’s always been based on and eventually, after 10 years, you have WWD: The trial — looking back, what did you know? and a lot of people were sup- trust. This is my company. It’s privately your head out of the cellar. The second you get out of it? portive…I just had a lot of energy com- owned with two of my oldest friends who possibility, you start with a bit of money C.L.: I didn’t want to go to trial. I knew the ing from people telling me I was a role are my two business partners: Bruno and you can enjoy life.” owner of this group, and I went to them model. I took it seriously, thinking, “well, Chamberland and Henri Seydoux. They So I thought, if I start like that, if it very nicely and very normally, and said, if I represent freedom, I can’t let free- are my closest friends since I was a child. doesn’t work, it’s not going to be my fault, “listen, I’m just ready to close my eyes, dom…” It’s almost a war like democracy I was roommates with Henri when I was it’s going to be the fault of the others….I but I have this trademark and you can’t versus totalitarianism. 15 and I’ve known Bruno since I was 18. thought, if it’s my adventure, I have to do do that.” But they’ve been — I don’t know a lot of people would say, “ Yo u shouldn’t it myself and I have to understand every- what to say about that. I’ve been totally WWD: Overstated, perhaps? work with friends.” For 22 years we’ve thing that happens to me and I have to fooled. Because I thought at the begin- C.L.: That’s the way they behaved with been working together and we remain feel responsible. and the reality is, I didn’t ning that you could believe in what they me. They’re like, “You’re a peanut.” I’m best friends. have my head in the cellar for 10 years. were saying. But you can’t. like, “I’m a peanut, but still”…It was al- not really. [But] sometimes, when you are most like a macho type of thing. They WWD: Tell me about starting the company. feeling a bit weaker, you think, “the trial WWD: You went to François-Henri had to win. Period. They had to win to C.L.: In ’91, I was already designing but I would have been set up in two seconds.” Pinault directly? show that you they cannot be crushed never really thought to be a company. C.L.: of course. I know him very well. by a small person...I had no choice but WWD: The trial? I thought he could handle the situa- fighting. WWD: Did you expect to keep working C.L.: Trial, you know, with YSl and the tion, but obviously he couldn’t or he just for other houses? trademark. If I had been in a group, in wouldn’t. But if you know the person, you WWD: You’re a major star, but the litigation C.L.: Exactly. I did work for Saint one second it would have been resolved. just say it face to face….But what has process reminded you that, in the big picture, laurent, for Chanel, for Maud Frizon, for It’s when that type of thing happens to you been very good about this trial, I real- yours is still a small company. Italian factories. I was really obsessed that you feel very weak as a small com- ized, because of my company’s Facebook C.L.: It is very complicated to be by your- with buying objects. There was some- pany. But, thank God, I’m still very, very or people calling me or letters that I re- self. It is complicated to be independent.

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It requires a lot of energy. It requires a in the fashion industry?” I was focused self but I have one person who is sort of of someone I consider a great designer, I lot of money. on shoes. editing the drawings. would say Pierre Hardy. Hardy has these architectural designs, which are really

Christian Louboutin, the Shoemaster WWD: In the end, was it worth it? WWD: Where do your inspirations come from? WWD: How many samples are produced fantastic. He actually does what Jourdan C.L.: Yes. I was happy that it was over, C.L.: It’s coming from everywhere. I travel for a collection? did with the picture; he does [it] in the that my trademark had been recognized. a lot and I look at a lot of things. I love ob- C.L.: Four hundred. I’m trying to squeeze shoes by itself. jects, any types of objects. I have a lot of it to 400, which become 200 and then the WWD: What is it about shoes? What is it objects. I buy a lot of things like fine art, collection becomes 120 or 140. WWD: Why did you decide to start handbags? that has this whole romance, fascination, handicrafts, fabrics, textiles. I go to any C.L.: I was still spending very much time in eroticism, the dream element? type of museum,’’ textile museums, in the WWD: I imagine the editing process is difficult. the store. I had a lot of people asking me C.L.: It’s not new. Even from the cin- whole world. I travel a lot to see things. C.L.: Sometimes some designs don’t for handbags. So it came quite naturally. ema, for the longest time, you have a It pleases your head. But in the process, look good [when sampled]. and some dialogue that goes through shoes. The what I don’t do, I don’t document it. designs are like, oK, it’s fine, but that WWD: Do you enjoy it? opening of “The Girl Can’t Help It” with one is better. So you eliminate one ver- C.L.: Yes. But not the same way as when Jayne Mansfield, it’s just a girl walk- WWD: What do you mean? sus the other. In one family you don’t I’m doing shoes. For instance, I really ing and every guy is staring at how she C.L.: I don’t do photographs. I think that need 25 sandals. Yo u choose which one need someone going into the factories. walks. “Some like It Hot,” the opening inspiration — everyone gets inspired by is the best. It’s not that difficult to edit. Shoes I do all myself. I sleep in the fac- is Marilyn moving. The shoe carries the [something]. If you go to an exhibition, a actually, it’s a funny moment to edit. It’s tory [in Baragiano, Italy]. I built an apart- woman. The woman carries the clothes, lot of people are at the exhibition so it something that I like. and I compose a ment on the roof of the factory. So I sleep but the shoe carries the woman. The makes sense that a lot of people have the family and if one is completely left by in the factory. shoe carries the character, a big part of same references. itself, then I keep it for next season. I the attitude. So I think this is where the If you look at a beautiful portrait of never think, oh, next season is going to WWD: Tell me about the beauty project. Why sexuality comes. It’s just on your foot, a woman painted by Goya, and if 10 de- be too late…I don’t have this anguish that beauty? but it diffuses something all over your signers look at the same portrait and the last days of designing are the best. If C.L.: when I was a teenager, one of body….also, there is something quite my big-time heroes —and I’m super- democratic in shoes. If you don’t like happy for her because she’s getting your body, you feel you are too fat or married again — was Tina Turner. In whatever, you can still like your feet, so Sometimes you sort of have to value the the Seventies in France, if you were a you still have attention to your shoes….If girl, you had to have no makeup, bad you think about it, a skinny foot is consid- importance of the nonimportant. boots, et cetera, looking scruffy. as a ered beautiful, but a plumpy foot is also kid, I was always like, “why, if a girl is very, very charming. It’s one part of the — Christian Louboutin sophisticated, if she cleans her hair, if body that can be charming in a lot of the she wears makeup, she’s stupid? Tell aspects and in a lot of shapes. me why a woman who likes to put on love that portrait, and then they go do some things arrive at the last minute and heels and who cleans her hair is a stu-

WWD: I read that you don’t design for the dress, if they have a document, it’s they can still be in the collection, that’s pid woman?” and no one was explain- the pleasure of women, that you design the photocopy of the dress. But if you’ve fine. If it’s too late, I keep it for the next ing everything. for the pleasure of men. been inspired by it but you don’t keep it collection. They were like, “oh, because [if you C.L.: no, it was sort of misunderstood. in front of you, it goes from the filter of focus too much on your appearance] what I was saying is that when I’m de- your memory. That’s your design. WWD: Do you have an ideal woman, you’re a kept woman and you’re an image signing, there is a designer, there is a I’ll give you an example. when I first an ideal customer in mind? for the man.” I just don’t think women

man, and there is a friend of women. did the red sole, it was by a shoe called C.L.: not one, because it’s complicated are all that stupid. and I was always giv- It’s almost three people who are differ- pensee. I thought of one of andy warhol’s to shrink every woman into one type of ing the example of Tina Turner. what I’m ent in terms of character. I never forget paintings. It was called flowers or pensee character. I’ve already had four sisters trying to say is the idea that you have to that shoes also have to please men. as a or whatever. I thought, I’m going to do it and it’s like, would you like to have just be natural — I think it’s completely stu- man, I totally understand looking at a girl in the colors of andy warhol and repro- one sister out of four? no. I can’t shrink pid. Being natural is like being unsophis- and saying, “darling, we’re having din- duce that flower as a mary-jane, and the women into one. one woman’’ is already a ticated. I do think you can be naturally ner together tonight, so do you mind to buckle will be this’’ big flower. I thought lot of woman. during the day, she’s going sophisticated. Just like you can be natu- change?” I understand that type of men- of that painting but I never looked at to change: what happened in her day, rally smart. There is something that’s in- tality from a man who loves his wife, his it. when I was happy with the shoes, I her working day, family, whatever. If she grained in people. Yo u can be naturally woman. He’s concerned about the way looked at the painting. I thought that it wants to please; if she’s in a bad mood. someone who likes to be delicate. It’s not you look. It’s not an ugly thing. I under- was three petals outlined with a dark all different characters. because you have been taught that way. stand also that a woman could not care. I color, et cetera, and when I looked at the naturally, some people are more sophis- like my design to please women, but also painting it had four petals. There was WWD: The great shoe stars: yourself. ticated. “natural” shouldn’t be no make- to please to men. I don’t like the kind of no outline. It was dark on the back and Manolo. Roger Vivier. Salvatore Ferragamo. up, roots, being in a pajama all year long. design that men are like, “oh, God.” I just there is not a center. Still, it’s my inter- Do you think this is an elite group of four? Thank God, culture has elevated people don’t like that. pretation of andy warhol’s one painting. Am I leaving somebody out? more than that. That’s why I’ve always what I’m trying to say is that in my pro- C.L.: no. Ferragamo. Monsieur roger loved makeup. WWD: Have you ever drawn or made a shoe cess, I’m influenced by a lot of things but Vivier. Manolo. who would I put? So many women in history, women that you know that women will love but you I don’t document things. I store a lot of Perugia. But not like Manolo. not like who made history, they didn’t have to think men will hate? things in my memory. It comes out the Salvatore Ferragamo either. Perugia look like bad versions of bad guys or C.L.: I have the tendency to not produce way it comes out. was fantastic but he was unable to do men. For me, beauty has been there for that shoe. Sometimes, the designer is one pure line. That was the thing. He 5,000 years. It’s nefertiti. If you see the winning: It’s a great f--king design, I have never did a beautiful pump. Jourdan. bust of nefertiti, it’s one of the most to have it, and the designer wins. But Jourdan has been a fantastic company beautiful faces, an incredible beauty. many times, I don’t let the designer in- The woman carries since the Seventies. and if you look at her, there’s nothing vade the man who loves women. This is natural. The eyes are like this. The eye- my nature because I was brought up by the clothes, but WWD: You’ve said that you learned brows are here. [He dramatically makes women, I was brought up with sisters. I the business during your time there. lines across his brow.] It’s perfectly de- LE ERICKSEN y

K know how much looking good is impor- Was Jourdan an important creative? signed. I don’t believe in God. I believe in tant to girls from an early age. as a sales- the shoe carries C.L.: Jourdan was a very modern company the power of people. If I look at the land- man, opening a store, I remember the in the sense that if you think Jourdan, you scape, I like the fact that people are able photo by first thing a woman does as she puts her the woman. would definitely think Guy Bourdin — the to [design it] themselves. Beauty is that shoes on. She puts her shoes on, she goes importance of the image. For instance, thing. also, makeup defines your char- straight to the mirror and she actually I worked with Monsieur roger Vivier. I acter. It remodels your character to the turns around to look at her ass. Then she WWD: That’s interesting. knew roger as a man. I worked with him woman you want to be. I’ve always liked goes back and looks at the rest of her leg, C.L.: The only moment is when shoes I’ve in 1988 in Paris; I took care of the exhibi- this antinatural thing. and then she considers the shoe. found in the flea market or whatever tion the [50th anniversary retrospective at have one detail that I’m interested in. the Musée des arts de la Mode exhibition], WWD: And are you just going to do your own WWD: Do you design with clothes in mind? That’s a technical part. I know a lot of his archives and everything. stores? You’ll do major makeup counters, right? C.L.: never. I do like fashion, but when There is not one picture that is symbolic of C.L.: Yes. It’s going to be quite the whole I’m designing, I never think of clothes. WWD: When you’re designing a collection, do roger Vivier. The image of roger is in his integrated thing. It’s going to be quite The object of the shoe, for me, is it. I can you work for a set number of hours every day? shoes. Even Ferragamo was stronger in the something, actually. imagine that some heels don’t look good C.L.: Yes. I isolate myself. no phone. image; his face was well-known. There’s with fluffy skirts, et cetera. But it’s not a when it’s a summer collection, I go to the famous picture where he’s lying down WWD: Will you advertise the beauty? natural instinct to think clothes. when a place where it’s hot. when it’s a win- with all the elastics. Yo u have iconic pic- C.L.: no. I draw, the girl is naked always. I never ter collection, I stay home in the coun- tures of just himself [as well as] his shoes. put in an element of clothing. tr y, and it’s often cold enough. If it’s roger, it’s all his shoes. Ferragamo, it’s the WWD: Not even beauty? not cold enough, then ’’I just don’t put shoes first and then him. But the power C.L.: we’ll see how it will carry. But I want WWD: Have you ever thought of on the heaters. of Jourdan, apart from the designs, is it’s to do it my way. I don’t say my way or no designing clothes? the only one in that category that is really way, like I know everything about every- C.L.: no. Someone approached me and WWD: Do you ever feel a creative block? advertising — the image of Bourdin. a lot thing. I don’t know anything about beauty. proposed I do a line….I said, “I don’t Some fashion designers say they need the of people do remember Jourdan for an I don’t know anything about the cosmet- want to do clothes. I have no interest and deadline of the show to force the creativity. image, a red spot with a green line. red ics. But I want to try to do it the way I I have no desire to do clothes and I have C.L.: I have to go to the factory after. I spot with a green line. But you may not think it would be nice and would make no desire to put my name on everything.” have to have the designs done. I start a remember properly the shoes. For that, sense. we’ll see. I never wanted to work for the fashion in- collection with my drawings and I iso- Jourdan is probably a weaker design but a dustry. I wanted to design shoes, which late myself for two weeks. It’s always stronger image. WWD: One more question. During your happen to be in the design [world], in the same thing. The first day, I’m sort of 20th anniversary celebrations, you called the fashion industry. But it’s not that I vague, but then it’s fluid. I do hundreds WWD: Who are the younger shoe stars today? your career “a still-young adventure.” thought, as a child, “what can I do to be of designs without stopping. I’m by my- C.L.: I don’t really know. If I had to think C.L.: Completely. I feel 20.

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pay attention to my skin. i use skin- based. “if a bronzer is powder-based, you By Samantha Conti, Julie care and grooming products,” said can see it in the sunlight. most women’s naughton and Pete Born Ford, adding that novices should bronzers are powder-based. this one mixes “get a magnifying mirror and look at well with moisturizer — and it washes off.” lonDon — hawk-eyed tom Ford your face. Do you have broken cap- Ford is near evangelical about the con-

is famous for his attention to detail, illaries? Pale or sallow skin? Dry cealer, $40, which comes in three shades — but that can sometimes be a curse. skin?” and then set about fixing it. light, medium and deep. “i know so many most men shuffle past each other his Purifying Face Cleanser, $48, guys — gay, straight, whatever — who steal every day with barely a glance. Ford, is a lightweight foaming gel aimed a a woman’s concealer and dab a little on instead, sees broken capillaries on preparing skin for a smooth shave. their fingers when no one is looking,” he the sides of noses and lips that are “it leaves skin feeling really clean said. “it just makes skin look better.” chapped and dry. ’’ — and a little bit taut — but it’s not a lip balm, $25, rounds out the offerings. “and i think: ‘ugh! Who would drying,” said Ford. “i’ve used a lot While executives refused to talk num- want to kiss those lips?’” said the of different products, and i know bers, industry sources estimated that the designer, who later this year will how drying some can be.” he said skin-care and grooming collection could launch his first men’s luxury groom- men generally tend to favor more do as much as $2.5 million at retail glob- ing collection, aimed at remedying abrasive-feeling products, ones that ally — in a tiny distribution — for its first make their skin feel squeaky-clean year on counter. and that they feel are working, like most of Ford’s products, the For more on the business oF whereas women are more conscious grooming line will be in “extremely tom Ford, see sidebar below. about being delicate with their skin. selective” distribution, said Caroline Ford has also created an geerlings, global brand president of tom intensive Purifying mud mask, $60, Ford Beauty, Prescriptives online and men’s everyday skin problems. Ford, which contains volcanic clay, and new business. that equates to about 50 who has most recently been using which he suggests using once a stores worldwide to start. “We’re focus- products from his women’s beauty week. “it just sounds gross, but it’s ing on and targeting key fashion cities,” line, said that he loves skin care so not — and it pulls impurities out of said geerlings. those include new York, much he could easily have come out the face,” he said. where the grooming line will be exclusive- with 20 products at the launch. and then there’s the oil-Free Daily ly at Bergdorf goodman and elsewhere in there are more products to come — People think I am always moisturizer, $105, which gives the the u.S. at neiman marcus; toronto, at including shaving cream. What he’s skin a matte finish, and aims to re- holt renfrew; in Paris at le Bon marché launching now are the basics. duce the look of fine lines and pores. and in the u.K., at Selfridges, harrods tom Ford for men will launch this tan, but I wear bronzer the anti-Fatigue eye treatment, and harvey nichols, said geerlings. fall with six multifunctional, high- $75, meanwhile, has a silver tip ap- as well, the brand will focus on hav- performance skin-care products and every single day. plicator that promises to cool skin ing separate men’s and women’s outposts two grooming ones, based on years and reduce puffiness. in these retailers. “the notion of a men’s of Ford’s own research trailing every — tom ford “ Yo u can feel it sucking your eye articulated space separate from the wom- manner of men’s and women’s skin bags away and calming down the en’s space — focused on demonstrated care products. Ford also has two new men’s grooming that syncs beautifully with puffiness,” said Ford. men’s beauty and grooming and fra- Private Blend oud fragrances in the pipe- his Private Blend masculine side as well as Skin revitalizing Concentrate, $150, line, oud Fleur and tobacco oud. the Signature fragrance brands. this is not which is the most expensive product in Since Ford inked his deal with the Jean Paul gaultier with men’s makeup.” the line, aims to repair skin while a man The Atelier d’Orient lineup. estée lauder Cos. inc. in april 2005, the rather, he said, the line is aimed at “en- sleeps, and to condition it before shav- brand has “charted a different path” and abling men to present their best selves... ing. “it’s the most intensive treatment in gone from co-branded women’s fragrances and the man, who’s shopping this category the line — if you’ve been skiing all day, with the estée lauder brand to a global in this distribution feels very comfortable it makes the redness go away. it’s a key beauty player, noted John Demsey, group having this discussion. this is a serious, product,” Ford said. president of the estée lauder Cos. “You’ve high-ticket men’s grooming line with a cou- indeed, the sporty Ford has brought his seen the evolution of tom Ford from an ple of products with cosmetics benefits to love of the slopes — and the tennis court ideation to a full-fledged beauty brand be used in a very masculine way.” — to bear on the collection. one of the two which is global in scope,” said Demsey, not- in the u.S., the tom Ford for men Skin grooming products is a water-based bronz- ing that the evolution has included the ad- Care and grooming Collection’’ range will ing gel, $48, which Ford uses to give him- dition of signature women’s fragrance and be launched in november. it includes self a summertime post-match glow. an artisanal fragrance collection to a full- six multifunctional skin-care products “People think i am always tan, but i scale beauty range. “now, we are looking at that are said to fuse high-performing wear bronzer every single day. i use it on what’s going to be a major play in men’s.” ingredients with lightweight textures to areas of my face that would usually get hit Demsey compared Ford’s laser focus on calm, comfort and mattify, as well as two by the sun after a morning playing tennis. grooming with leonard lauder’s passion grooming products that are intended to i put it across the high part of my fore- for building aramis in the Sixties. “tom correct flaws and improve the appear- head, and on my nose and cheekbones.” believes, and we do too, that there’s space ance of the skin instantly. “most people Ford’s bronzer temporarily stains the for a tom Ford point of view relative to say to me, ‘Wow, you have great skin.’ i skin, and it’s no accident that it’s water-

tion of more than $12 billion. in a similar vein, a stake of tory Burch traded hands Investor Said Weighing Options for Stake in Ford’s Firm late last year, valuing the company at earnings power of high-end brands. out amorim’s stake, although that would about $2.5 billion, according to a source. By eVan ClarK the américo amorim group, a require a considerable investment. a others are out testing the market as Portuguese cork producer, bought a 25 source said the company has not been well. Coach inc. hired Perella Weinberg the FoCuS at tom Ford’s spring men’s percent share in tom Ford in 2007 and approached by any would-be investors — to explore a sale of the reed Krakoff show on tuesday was on the fashion — is now believed to be reevaluating the a logical step for someone wanting to buy brand, perhaps to a group of investors but it’s the business prospects of tom position. amorim made the investment a minority stake in the private company. including the designer. there’s also Ford international that are coming to with an eye toward forming a broader “We are not looking for new investors been speculation that marc Jacobs and the fore for the investment set. luxury business, but has instead focused or new investment,” Ford told WWD. “We lVmh moët hennessy louis Vuitton the company, founded in 2005 after on other areas, such as oil. do not want to sell more of this company. could spin off the marc Jacobs business tom Ford and Domenico De Sole exited Bankers were testing the waters re- We don’t want new investment.” in an initial public offering. gucci, has been growing at a good clip cently, reaching out to wealthy families amorim did not respond to repeated For now, tom Ford’s management is and is rapidly expanding its store base that might be interested in buying the queries, and De Sole declined to com- focused on building out the brand and to 100 stores by the end of 2014, up from stake. But that process seems to have ment on “rumors.” the retail presence. apparel revenues the current footprint of 60-some doors. been somewhat premature and appears By testing the market, amorim or are estimated to be in the neighborhood and the firm’s ambitions are to keep to have been shut down once word start- bankers hoping to work with amorim of $200 million and the company has growing. “We want to be the number-one ed to leak out. might be trying to get a sense of what licensing deals with the estée lauder luxury brand in the world,” said chair- Ford and De Sole still hold the cards. the stake is worth as investors zero in Cos. inc. for fragrance and marcolin for man De Sole at a luxury summit in april. the designer owns 63.75 percent of the on luxe brands. eyewear, which help keep money com- now, an early investor might be look- company that bears his name and De michael Kors holdings ltd., which ing in as the expansion rolls on. ing to sell a stake in the business just as Sole holds the remaining 11.25 percent. plays in an adjacent market and went Ford has moved to significantly raise the market reawakens to the potential they have the right of first refusal to buy public in 2011, has a market capitaliza- the profile of the brand’s apparel in the

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“i love oud, and it’s a number-one $125 for the 100-ml. size. The two new Oud selling fragrance for us,” said Ford. “the “to further broaden the appeal, we scents and new color whole collection was conceived as unisex, rebalanced the scents and played up the cosmetics offerings. but [at least] 30 percent of the people buy- ’’ citrus and herbal notes,” said geerlings. ing Private Blend oud are men.” national scented advertising, breaking the tom Ford oud Collection could in october books including Vanity Fair do $20 million in global retail sales in its and gQ, will support both the edp and the first year on counter, according to indus- edt. updated advertising for the brand’s try sources. Black orchid fragrance will also launch Private Blend will also gain atelier this fall, and Signature will tiptoe into d’orient, a collection of four dual-audience two macy’s doors as a test in october, at Private Blend fragrances inspired by asia herald Square in new York and at union and including ingredients from the ancient Square in San Francisco. silk and spice routes of old. launching tom Ford Beauty, the designer’s color in September (with a preview beginning cosmetics line, currently comprises about in mid-July at Bergdorf ’s), they are Plum 150 stockkeeping units and more will be

ne Japonais, which blends saffron, cinnamon added for the fall. lips are a key driver

CCO bark from laos and Sawara cypress with for the brand, with about 30 percent of the ume plum, velvety plum liqueur and ca- brand’s cosmetics sales attributed to the

Ianna mellia japonica flowers;

mas Fleur de Chine, which HO

T combines hualan flower, star magnolia, clemen- You’ve seen the evolution of tine, bergamot and jas-

PHOTOs BY mine tea notes; Shanghai Tom Ford from an ideation to lily, a floral oriental with bitter orange, pink pep-

PRODUCT a full-fledged beauty brand percorn, clove, jasmine grance, in addition to the bigger cosmet- the two new oud fragrances, Private and tuberose, and rive ics entities — is really a different strate- Blend oud Fleur and Private Blend d’ambre, an eau de co- which is global in scope. gy,” said Demsey. “We’re starting it off the tobacco oud, share the original oud’s sig- logne with bergamot; same way we started off with beauty — nature elements — oud, sandalwood and lemon and bitter orange — John demsey, estée Lauder hyper-selective.” Select tom Ford stores patchouli — then follow contrasting direc- oils, and tarragon, carda- will also get the line. the significance of tions. While oud Wood’s notes also include mom and spearmint oil. each scent retails category and it is currently growing about the launch lies in its directional nature, smoky birch tar, cistus heart, patchouli for $210 for 1.7 oz. and $520 for a 250-ml. bot- 45 percent, said geerlings. the brand is not industry sources volume estimates. absolute and cedarwood atlas, oud Fleur tle. in celebration of Ford’s london flagship, also hoping to ratchet up other makeup Currently, about 40 percent of Ford’s adds incense, cistus, leather accord, am- the brand is also producing — what else — categories, and a key focus this fall will be overall fragrance business is done with bergris, castoreum, rose Bulgaria orpur, tom Ford london, a Private Blend offering. on eyes, she said. Permanent additions to men, split between Signature and Private rose absolute morocco, rose absolute geerlings noted that tom Ford noir the line include a dual-ended eye product Blend, said geerlings. the new skin-care turkey orpur, ginger Co2, cardamom seed eau de parfum, launched in September with a felt-tip liquid liner on one end and and grooming range is a step toward oil and geranium egypt orpur. Private 2012, has doubled its sales projections. in a brush on the other, which will retail for rounding out the brand’s men’s offerings. Blend tobacco oud teams oud with an ide- response, the brand is adding an eau de $55; an eye primer said to extend shadow “We’ve been focusing a lot on women’s, so alized tobacco accord inspired by “dokha,” toilette version in october. a 50-ml. bottle up to 15 hours of wear, $45, and a length- it was time to hone in on the men’s catego- a blend of herbs, flowers and spice-laden will retail for $75, while a 100-ml. bottle ening mascara, $42. Cosmetics, launched r y,” she said. “We’re are looking for signifi- tobacco that was smoked in secret five cen- will go for $98. the original noir eaux de in 2011, are in about 100 doors globally, in- cant growth there — we plan to grow our turies ago during a ban on smoking. Fine parfum cost $90 for the 50-ml. size and cluding neiman marcus. men’s business by 45 percent next year.” tobacco dust absolute is intertwined with ’’ the overall business is projected to grow coriander seed oil, as well as roasted tonka 35 percent next year, added Demsey. organic absolute, coumarin, Spanish cistus neither Demsey nor geerlings would oil, cistus absolute, cedarwood atlas orpur quantify those percentage growths with and castoreum. solid numbers, although industry sources the collection of three oud fragrances estimate that the tom Ford beauty and also offers three bath-and-body products: grooming empire could generate world- oud Wood Body moisturizer, oud Wood wide retail sales of $275 million by the end Shower gel and oud Wood Bath Soap. BONUS DISTRIBUTION: Outdoor Retailer of the fiscal year, June 30, 2014. Within five all three fragrances in the Private years, sources speculated that that num- Blend oud Collection come in warm gray ber could rise to $500 million in global versions of the signature Private Blend retail sales. Ford will add two oud juices glass bottles. the bottles are packaged to the lineup this fall. “i love Private in warm gray boxes with a cross-hatched Blend oud Wood, and it’s a top-selling surface and a dark metallic gray label. fragrance for us globally,” said Ford of the oud Wood Body moisturizer, Shower the middle eastern-inspired scent, which gel and Bath Soap are also packaged in launched in 2007. he added that the oud warm gray containers with dark gray la- collection was conceived as unisex, but bels that are stamped with silver font. 30 to 60 percent of the customers buying a 50-ml. eau de parfum will retail for Private Blend oud are men. the latest $210, with a 250-ml. bottle going for $520. oud Private Blend fragrances are also uni- a moisturizer, shower gel and bath soap — sex, but will be marketed more as men’s $65, $65 and $35, respectively — will also scents. “So now there will be a balance for be offered in about 430 doors globally, mim- Private Blend, and it will float between icking Private Blend’s door count. about men’s and women’s,” Ford added. 115 of those doors will be in theu .S.

last year, returning to the runway with Ford told WWD in a recent inter- OUTDOOR shows for his men’s and women’s wear view that the business was still “no-

in london in January and February. where near where i want it to be.” RETAILER ISSUE in recent years, he had held presenta- asked if a relatively new brand could tions for his collections. break through and become one of the the company has the considerable top five brands in luxury, Ford said, “i REACHING THE INDUSTRY’S DECISION-MAKERS benefit of not only a well-known brand, could and will, certainly within the next but deep experience in the world of luxe. 10 years, if not sooner. But i think there De Sole spoke about the chal- are very few people in the world that lenges of brand building at american could. i say that in the most humble way, express Publishing’s luxury Summit meaning that i’ve had every advantage this spring. that anyone could possibly have. i had “it is a painful, long and expensive enough money to self-finance. i had a road, but it can be done. Yo u need well-known name. i had 20 years of ex- OUTDOOR RETAILER the talent first and great product sec- perience working for very big companies ISSUE: 7/31 ond, but it can be done,” De Sole said with no fear of scale, meaning when i SPACE CLOSE: 7/17 of launching a new brand and retail was at gucci i had a $70 million adver- stores at the same time. “With gucci, tising and communications budget that i we had 70 existing stores when tom oversaw. the scale of things — i mean, came on board, so we didn’t have to we were a $3 billion company when i change too much at retail, we could left, and the entire gucci group was big- focus on the product. But the reality ger than that. i have no fear of scale.” for a small young company is you need  —Withcontributions financing for your stores.”  froms.c. For more information, contact Pamela Firestone, Associate Publisher, WWD at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi [email protected]

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w21a006(7)a;8.indd 7 6/20/13 7:59 PM 06202013200013 8 WWD friday, june 21, 2013 beauty The Return of Madonna Badger burns from the fire and trying to cope see the pride that those women took in London. on the fashion-retail-lifestyle By Pete Born without even something to wear, since ev- that. It made a big difference to me.” side of the equation, the agency picked erything was consumed in the fire, friends In arkansas, she stayed with a friend, up the Smart Set in Canada, godiva and Madonna Badger, who has endured surrounded her, bringing boxes of cloth- Kate askew, and her husband Jess. the donghia fabric and furniture brand. unimaginable tragedy, is back at work ing and even comforting her so she could askew is a rare book dealer, and Badger Beraud, who has worked with the with a sharpened sense of resolve. sleep. one of the veterans of those days tried doing small projects involving old agency while at three companies, de- Her office at the Badger & Winters ad was Francine gingras, vice president of volumes and antiques. “We were just con- scribed Badger’s key strength as “having agency in Manhattan is decorated with global public relations at elizabeth arden. stantly coming up with crazy ideas and tremendous vision and an unparalleled pictures of and artwork by her three Saying she has never experienced such an fun things to do,” she said, recalling how aesthetic.” She also is adept at “disrup- young daughters — nine-year old Lily emotional swing “from the worst bottom to she realized one day that she had an ad tive thinking — breaking new ground in and seven-year-old twins, Sarah and what I can only describe as this very soul- agency that “I built from the ground up mature categories.” grace — who perished in a Christmas ful purposeful life, there’s a certain calm- and I’m going to go back there.” While Beraud was at PepsiCo, Badger morning blaze in 2011 that horrified the ness and purpose about her life today that While Badger was down South, Winters created a new concept and packaging for nation. along with the children, Badger’s has changed over time. there’s a more kept the business moving forward, knowing a water product that was “so aspirational parents, Pauline and Lomer Johnson, centered purpose in her being today. she would return. He moved the office to it would take the water category to a whole also died in the blaze that consumed her “Whenever I’m with her, there’s an much larger quarters, expanded staff and new level.” Beraud pointed out that Winters Victorian-era home in Stamford, Conn. energy around her that’s new and it’s lined up new business. “We knew there was adds a smart, strategic strength that he

the juxtaposition of her life-shatter- vibrant,” gingras continued, describing going to come a moment when she was not demonstrated in her absence. “He provides ing loss and the busy, thriving ad agency a new characteristic of “empathy with only going to want to come back, she was a steadfastness and is highly strategic and — with key beauty accounts like avon a purpose. She genuinely is trying to be going to come back,” he said. “our job was also they share a similar aesthetic,” Beraud Products and Living Proof — that she more sensitive, more kinder, more gen- to make sure she came back to the healthi- said. “He has the operational strength that runs with Jim Winters tells a story of deep tler, more understanding…this is her last est, most vital situation possible.” maybe is not her favorite thing.” resilience mixed with what solace talking about Badger, Calvin

can be found in work. “I really have Klein observed, “It’s this rare com- to do it a day at a time,” Badger said Madonna Badger back at work with partner Jim Winters, over her right shoulder, and coworkers. bination she has — an ability to un- during a recent interview, sitting in derstand clients’ needs, to think cre- a bright, airy conference room. She atively and pull together the team of had just been discussing beauty mar- writers, visual people, graphics peo- keting, tossing off cogent and percep- ple, directors and to be able to target tive observations, completely at ease ’’ the audience — if it’s on television, in her element. there was no hint of or the Internet — to market it.” sadness in her voice, until the con- Similarly, Vera Wang cited her versation touched on her immense talent for interpreting a designer’s loss. “When I’m in this, right now, I’m “voice” as it evolves through a ca- great,” she said of the office. “I know reer and “translating that specificity that I’m oK, we’re going in the right in such an artistic way.” Wang added, direction. I’m taking good care of my- “Madonna is one of those people who self, I’m reaching out.” really had a sense of art and taste an old friend, Calvin Klein, praised and past and present — historically.” Badger, who turned 49 on thursday, as She noted that the ads Badger a rare individual who masters both the had done in the early days of Wang’s creative and commercial sides of busi- business exuded a timeless sensual- ness while possessing a unique per- John Aquino ity and sophistication. “It’s not even sonal chemistry. regarding the trag- romance, it was art,” she said.

edy, Klein said, “It’s life-changing, to Photo by Winters and Badgers maintain that say the least. But it shows the courage the beauty industry is going to have to and the strength of this woman. She’s think differently if it is to lure a new moving on with her life and accepting generation of users, especially when what she has to accept — still contrib- When I’m in this, right now, I’m great. discussing the Millennials. It starts uting — and is living.” with getting to know the customer in But her return is still a daily climb. — Madonna Badger,on her return to work every phase of her life, Badger said, “every day I get more and more ac- adding that some companies like ceptance of what’s really happened Living Proof are trying to break the and what’s really happening,” she ob- moment and she will live it the best way Badger said she came to realize that mold in plumbing individual consumer served. “every day is accepting. I used to she knows how. there’s a lens in a sense the ability to successfully run a business needs. the industry needs to tell the con- wake up every morning and not remember of purposefulness in her life today.” that sustains people and feeds their fami- sumer: “We understand your life, we un- that [the family members] were gone and Winters remarked to Badger during lies “is pretty massive stuff.” referring to derstand who you are, that your life is a lot I’d have to re-remember every day.” the interview that her ability to survive the spacious offices full of young people, bigger than just your skin care.” When asked how she can push aside such an ordeal without bitterness made she recalled, “one of the first things that She continued, “a lot of it is the idea memories of that night in order to summon her “an even more empathetic soul,” Jim and I really talked about when I first that they are the creators. When you take the concentration needed to do her job, sharpening her ability to connect with came back [in January] was, how can we out of the equation this idea that we are or just function, she talked about coping consumers and brands. Badger replied, be an inspiration to all the people that coming from on high and coming down, with “the black feelings. When I try to run “no one escapes. everybody has pain and work here for us?” saying ‘this is what you need to know,’ the away from them, it doesn’t work,” she ob- suffering. What happened did not happen Perhaps the big opportunity to answer more we as brands are a part of her con- served. “But when I invite them and talk to to me, it happened. that’s the important that question is the fact that Badger & versation, a part of her world and under- my girls and they talk back to me, I firmly point. this is not life punishing me.” Just Winters has become the agency of record stand her world with a single, clear and believe they are in a beautiful, wonderful, as she fights against feelings of self-pity for avon, according to the company,’’ and is concise message, then we’re giving her loving place. I don’t have bitterness.” and morbid reflection, Badger admits to charged with creating and producing the the chance to not only choose us but also Her yearlong recovery effort, largely occasionally drifting into what she calls worldwide campaign. “We selected them create with us.” spent at Psychiatric research Institute at “the deep darkness,” where “I can’t feel because of their deep expertise in under- It boils down to what Badger calls the University of arkansas in Little rock, my children, I can’t feel joy, I can’t feel standing the emotional drivers of the beau- “this age of empathy,” a concept that was aided by Badger’s strong bond with gratitude that they were my kids.” ty and fashion consumer,” said Patricia resonated last Christmas when she was her lost daughters. on aug. 29, Lily’s birth- She recalled traveling to thailand Perez-ayala, senior vice president and visiting an orphanage for young girls, day, Badger got dressed for the occasion. “I during her healing process and see- chief marketing officer at avon. She added aged three to 18, in thailand. She had put on a really pretty outfit for her and I ing women sitting in front of their huts. that the “team is working closely with us to given them toys and other gifts that she did my hair and makeup. I sang to her all “they had little tables out in front of gain a first-hand understanding of our con- had salvaged from the detached garage day and I just wanted to look pretty for her. their houses and on those tables they sumers and representatives.” in Connecticut that escaped the fire. all “I wanted to look my best,” she contin- would put three little beautiful tooth- the agency has worked for avon for the girls had come from homeless or ued. “I wanted to show the world that I brushes and one comb and a Coca-Cola four years, including the creation of a wretched backgrounds. “I told them what am oK. I love my children and I am not bottle and four pieces of candy. It was global design vision for its brochure, had happened to me, and I said, ‘I’m just going to fade away.” just this little way of making extra money which acts as a store and advertising like you. I’ve lost everything, you’ve lost one of Badger’s oldest clients, Jill for their families,” she recalled. campaign combined. everything and here we are.’” Beraud, chief executive officer of Living “they took such pride in it. that’s Winters estimates that 60 percent of the head of the orphanage asked if Proof, marvels at her strength. “I would what we do, right? We give love to prod- the agency’s business is in beauty, includ- they could pray with her. She said yes and almost say she has more of a serenity and ucts, we give them brands, we give them ing Living Proof, Laura geller Beauty bowed her head. “It was very emotional,” it’s almost like she has a calm strength emotional content for people so that they and continuing with Clairol natural Badger recalled. “When I opened my eyes, about her, but she’s incredibly grounded.” can have choices. that emotional content Instincts at Procter & gamble. as part of all 25 of the little girls were all standing In the days after the fire, when Badger is important, and I didn’t really realize its new global push, the agency is plan- around me and they were all praying over was in White Plains, n.Y., recovering from how important it was until I could really ning to open offices in São Paulo and me in thai. that was mind-blowing.”

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WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 21, 2013 9 WWD.COM ’’ PVH was a key player on the brand side of Ron Johnson’s ill-fated attempt to give J.C. Penney Co. Inc. an upscale makeover, with its Izod brand selected to open promi- PVH in Integration Mode nent in-store shops within the department {Continued from page one} centrated in economically deflated Spain percent in Asia and 9 percent in Latin store. Chirico said those units, which Warnaco’s underwear business is and Italy, resulting in anemic operating mar- America. The brand is present in 1,250 showcase the sportswear label “in its full healthy, but turning around the troubled gins that hover in the low-single-digit range. branded stores globally, including 590 grandeur,” have been strong performers Calvin Klein Jeans unit is a key priority The company plans to reposition the company-owned stores, and more than and that PVH is upbeat about J.C. Penney’s for PVH. The business is unprofitable in brand across much of the market, exiting 10,000 total points of sale as of last month. new strategy under Myron “Mike” Ullman, Europe, where PVH plans to close 25 to 35 wholesale doors that do not fit into the In its own stores, Tommy Hilfiger who returned to the ceo role in April, in underperforming Calvin Klein Jeans stores. brand criteria, improving the design and same-store sales were up 4 percent in the connection to Johnson’s ouster. Izod is on In North America, the business is under- quality of jeans and bridge product and first quarter of this year in Europe, and track to double sales at J.C. Penney over performing operating profit target levels investing in supply chain, shops-in-shop up 5 percent in North America. the next few years, and more than 40 of its by 500 to 600 basis points, with distribution and retail stores. Tommy Hilfiger forecasts $3.4 billion shops will increase in size from 600 square overweighted to the off-price channel and in total revenue this year and an EBIT feet to more than 1,100 square feet. total sales declining in the high single dig- margin of about 14 percent. Calvin Klein “We believe in the J.C. Penney man- its last year. Asia and Latin America are revenue will reach $2.75 billion this year, agement team and how they are position- brighter spots for the jeans business. The only things you with an EBIT margin of 15.5 percent. ing the company,” said Chirico, who was “In its two more mature markets of In PVH’s heritage division — which optimistic that the retailer’s U-turn back Europe and North America, it’s a real will see are a continual includes Izod, Arrow, Van Heusen, G.H. to aggressive value pricing and market- struggle in jeans and it doesn’t make a Bass & Co. and now Warner’s, Olga and ing would boost its sinking sales. “We lot of sense to us,” Chirico told WWD. process on Tommy Speedo — total revenues this year are ex- think that will go a long way not only in “It’s an iconic category for the brand, pected to reach $2.05 billion, with 69 per- bringing our categories back, dress shirts and to have it underperform is some- [Hilfiger] and Calvin cent in wholesale and 31 percent in retail. and neckwear, but also a lot of what’s thing that we really need to turn around “Sometimes I get up here and feel like I’m going on in their other core categories in the next 12 months.” [Klein], investing in between two supermodels, Heidi Klum — big areas like underwear and socks Calvin Klein’s total retail sales hit and Cindy Crawford,” said Ken Duane, and hosiery, where they really suffered $7.6 billion last year, with 52 percent in those businesses. ceo of wholesale, of the intramural rivalry [under Johnson] and where Penney’s was North America, 23 percent in Europe, 19 — EmanuEl ChiriCo, PVh CorP. with the more glamorous Calvin Klein and [previously] very profitable.” percent in Asia and 6 percent in Latin Tommy Hilfiger divisions at PVH. At the same time, Chirico cautioned, America. About half those sales are from The heritage division has long trum- “From a financial balance-sheet point of licensed product, with fragrance maker “We see 2013 as an opportunity to peted its dominance of the furnishings view, [Penney’s] is not the same company Coty accounting for $1.4 billion and G-III, stabilize the business and position it for categories in department and chain it was 24 months ago. There is a higher which makes Calvin Klein outerwear, growth in 2014,” said Tom Murry, ceo of stores, where its owned and licensed level of risk and we manage the risk and women’s sportswear, dresses and hand- Calvin Klein Inc. brands ring up a 50 percent unit share of we’ll react to the market trends. There bags, among other categories, comprising In contrast, 70 percent of Tommy all neckwear in the U.S. and 45 percent are no guarantees in life, but it is a $15 $1 billion in retail sales. Hilfiger’s European sales are in Northern of dress shirts. PVH also sells 19 percent billion retailer with a huge market share, Calvin Klein is sold in nearly 2,800 and Central Europe, and spring bookings of woven sport shirts and 11 percent of and our brands need to be there because branded retail locations, including 2,000 were up 4 percent and fall bookings up 10 knits shirts in the channels. the American consumer shops there.” company-owned doors, as well as more percent for the brand. “In a difficult retail The heritage brands’ retail stores are Ullman has twice visited PVH head- than 20,000 wholesale doors as of May. environment, retailers like to go a little undergoing a long turnaround process, quarters in New York over the past several Total Calvin Klein retail sales are forecast safe and go with proven brands and we’ve with soft sales and EBIT margins of only months to talk up its new merchandising to grow 8 to 10 percent annually through benefited from that,” said Fred Gehring, 2 percent this year. The goal is to bring and pricing strategies as well as its finan- 2016, hitting $10 billion. ceo of Tommy Hilfiger and P’’VH’s interna- that up to the high single digits by im- cial restructuring, in an effort to revive Europe, which accounts for 20 percent tional operations. proving product quality, elevating the in- confidence among its partners. “He’s been of total Calvin Klein sales, has been a drag Tommy Hilfiger has global retail sales store experience, closing poorly perform- in the market pretty significantly, visiting on the brand across categories. About 70 of about $6 billion, with 42 percent in ing doors and optimizing the real estate suppliers and vendors. It’s been a big part percent of its sales in the region are con- Europe, 37 percent in North America, 12 portfolio, said Duane. of the initiative,” said Chirico.

You can certainly outdo the airlines if you give them a very good selection of LAX Celebrates Terminal Revamp food. The third one is what I call impulse shopping. They can buy presents if they LOS ANGELES — The Tom Bradley which includes stores from Kitson, Fred to spare. If you look at retailing at air- didn’t get to the [L.A.] stores.” International Terminal at Los Angeles Segal, Coach, Bulgari, Michael Kors, ports around the world, they have totally Fraser Ross, founder of Kitson, has International Airport is ready for liftoff. Tumi, Hugo Boss and Victoria’s Secret. changed to cater to those issues.” had experience retailing at LAX, where A $1.9 billion piece of a $4.1 billion The DFS Group, the luxury travel re- When it came to leasing the spaces Kitson has been open at Terminal 7, one of improvement program at LAX, the larg- tail specialist owned by LVMH Moët at Tom Bradley, Lowy’s aim was to make United Airlines’ terminals at the airport, est public works project in Los Angeles’ Hennessy Louis Vuitton, invested $25 sure there was a breadth of merchan- since April of last year in a store that Ross history, government officials and retail ex- million in its duty-free offering as well as dise that featured both affordable and estimated ranks among the top retail pro- ecutives pulled the curtains back on the branded boutiques it manages for Gucci, luxury, and discretionary and necessary ducers at LAX. “The airport business is a 1.2 million-square-foot terminal Thursday. Burberry, Hermès, Bottega Veneta, Chloé choices, and to give visitors a sense of great business to go after. It’s a time-poor, Although it is not set to fully open for an- and Salvatore Ferragamo. Los Angeles to intrigue them on their cash-rich customer,” he said. At LAX, he other few months, the terminal, which An important change at the new ter- way in or to remember it on their way continued, “It is a high-traffic, fast-paced will have 18 gates and the ability to pro- minal was the placement of the majority out. “You have three things to look for: store. It needs almost 24-hour care. When cess 4,500 people per hour, houses 60 res- you get that much traffic, you have to be taurant and retail units covering 60,000 on top of it. You have to be organized and square feet, including 22 local concepts, A look at the new space. clean. You have to make that a priority.… 42 new to LAX and 28 new to airports. We sell everything soup to nuts. We watch The last time anything truly signifi- the price points. We understand that not cant was done to the terminal was when everyone flies first class.” it was built in 1984, according to Los It is projected that the new retail and Angeles Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa, who restaurants within Tom Bradley will gener- spoke at a press conference in a hall the ate $98 million in annual sales, or roughly size of three football fields that will be $1,600 per square foot a year, which would named after him, and the years since put them at the highest tier of retail perfor- haven’t been good to the terminal. He mance in Los Angeles. At the press confer- said he constantly has fielded gripes that, ence, Michael Lawson, president of the Los “We had the worst airport in the United Angeles Board of Airport Commissioners, States, certainly the worst passenger ex- said, “I think that’s going to be low.” DFS perience.” Looking at the new terminal has said forecast first full-year sales for its now, he exclaimed, “You’re almost at a airport-wide duty-free concession would be loss for words when you walk in here.” more than $300 million. Villaraigosa has made it his mission to Sales will be heavily dependent on upgrade LAX and led the charge in 2006 spending by Chinese tourists. Villaraigosa to settle lawsuits that had blocked rede- recalled that when Los Angeles launched a velopment of the airport, which will be tourism office in China in 2006, there were one of the main hallmarks of a mayoral two nonstop flights Chinese travelers could tenure due to end on July 1 when Eric take to LAX, and 110,000 Chinese tourists Garcetti succeeds him. Villaraigosa has for the year. Last year, there were six non- been outspoken that the revamped inter- of shops and restaurants behind the se- The first is the needs of the traveler who stop flights, and 460,000 Chinese tourists national terminal tap the best retailers curity checkpoint at Tom Bradley, a vir- would rely on buying things at the air- arrived. This year, he anticipated an ad- and restaurateurs in Los Angeles. “I want tual retail desert in the past. “To do vol- port. There are luggage issues, personal ditional 70,000 Chinese tourists, and he restaurants, I want stores that look like ume, they need to be in the area where care items [like for] shaving, newspapers, stressed each nonstop international route L.A., and we got them.…The local flavor the customer is spending the most time,” gum, magazines — the traditional stuff. from China to LAX is worth $623 million to is here,” he said Thursday. said Peter Lowy, co-chief executive of- Then, because there is so much time be- the Los Angeles economy. The retail assortment is a mix of na- ficer of Westfield. “People get to the air- fore getting on the airlines, the next one “We’re working to make L.A. the capi- tional, international and local names. ports two hours early because they have is food. At Tom Bradley, you will see a tal of the Pacific Rim. This airport, this Westfield Group invested $79.8 million to go through TSA and, depending on the lot of flights to Asia, and they leave late pavilion is critical to welcoming these in the retail and restaurant component, flight, they may have an hour-and-a-half at night, between 8 p.m. and midnight. people here,” said Villaraigosa.

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her curves packed into a densely Becca knit bustier dress by Azzedine Alaïa. FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE The French actress is on a break Cason from filming “Vampire Academy: WWD.com/eye. Thrash in Raucous Liasons Jean Paul Blood Sisters,” and therefore BECCA CASON THRASH, the force-of-nature “My feet are going to pay: It’s pulling bore no fangs or claws. “In the Gaultier. Houston philanthropist, requested me to the ground,” Milla Jovovich said film, I have nails that are like “extremely formal attire” for her third of her glittering Saint Laurent T-shirt this long,” she said, extending her slender Liaisons au Louvre benefit gala Tuesday gown, paved in dense silvery crystals. fingers to demonstrate. night in Paris — and the swanky crowd She let a reporter hoist a bit of its skirt Bianca Brandolini, who arrived on the went in heavy. Thrash herself, in a Jean to prove she wasn’t exaggerating. The arm of Valli, said she would be treading Paul Gaultier couture skirt that weighed actress said a heavyweight role awaits the boards in Paris next spring, playing a 40 pounds, whisked through the sprawling her — portraying controversial German student in the French adaption of Jenny Lyn museum greeting a flotilla of Texas filmmaker Leni Riefenstahl in an Bader’s play “None of the Above.” millionaires and designers including independent movie called “Flicker of During the extended cocktail gathering, Giambattista Valli, Bruno Frisoni and Andrew Gn. Light,” due to start filming this fall. as guests roamed amongst heroic statuary, “It’s embroidered on metal mesh,” she “How often does one dine at the Juicy Couture cofounder Gela Nash-Taylor said breezily. Louvre?” enthused Bond girl Olga Kurylenko, and vbeauté’s Julie Macklowe stood furiously discussing their Alexander McQueen gowns, their skirts in creamy tulle puddled Diana Ross together on the floor. “We’ve decided we’re only going to parties thrown by Texans,” Macklowe enthused. “They’re the most fun.” As if on cue, Thrash related details of one of her pre-gala parties. “Honey, last night we had The Gypsy Queens playing at the Senate,” she said, describing dancing-on-tables euphoria. “I think we can safely say that’s a first.” Surely hearing Diana Ross perform a medley of hits under the I.M. Pei pyramid ranks up there, too. Gela Nash-Taylor in Ariane Dandois and her daughter, Ondine de Alexander McQueen Rothschild, busted moves in look-alike Oscar with John Taylor. de la Renta gowns and Vanity Fair France’s Virginie Mouzat waved her hands in the air as Ross fluffed her hair and flouted the Caitlin Moe batwing sleeves of her red sequined gown. performs. “Do you remember this one? Are you too young to remember this song?” Ross said to the rapt audience just before breaking into “Stop! In the Name of Love.” The event, organized by the American and International Friends of the Milla Jovovich in Saint Laurent, Louvre, raised just less than $3 million, eye DOMINIQUE MAITRE Bianca Brandolini and Olga designated for the restoration of the Kurylenko in Azzedine Alaïa. Roman-Greco antiquities galleries. — MILES SOCHA PHOTOS BY

undiluted. The dilution is East Village watering hole include the Negroni D’Oro, a Shingo Gokan always from the corner of the with a near-cultish following concoction of Bombay sapphire, behind the bar of ice but because this ice doesn’t of twentysomethings, where he becherovka, aodani umesu aged King & Canvas. have any corners, the melting oversaw the cocktail program. seven years and the Nardis, a is very slow and it keeps the Gokan may feel more at bubbly combination of pear- drink tasting good longer.” home in his new space given infused Grey Goose, grapefruit, “It’s like if you’re a Chef Morimoto’s Japanese tonic and white truffle, a note photographer,” he continued, heritage. Gokan crafted the that hits you on the nose as soon eyeing a baseball-size snowball cocktail menu in that spirit as you draw the flute to your lips. of ice, sitting in a tumbler. “ Yo u with many drinks utilizing Spirits are complemented don’t want to take a picture shochu and sake. by an assortment of small unless you have the right “Sake is like a cooking plates with a flavor profile camera,” he says, fixated on the ingredient when you make steeped in Japanese glass as he poured the precisely Japanese food, like a kind classicalism — wasabi, Rocks calibrated proportion of gin. of sauce,” he says, swilling teriyaki and dashi are rife The 30-year-old has been a gold bar spoon in a mix throughout the menu — but behind the bar for 13 years since of Morimoto’s own brand of given an emphasis in comfort coming across a bartending job Shochu and aged sake with food. Crowd-pleasers include Expert in his native Japan. mirin, and orange bitters to hamachi tacos: yellowtail “At that time when I took create The Morimoto, a cocktail tartare, jalapeno, cilantro and a wasabi-infused guacamole SHINGO GOKAN is particular. clientele as discerning and folded into gyoza skins; The other day he was at discriminating as he is. King & Canvas topokki rice cakes imbued with Tribeca Canvas, the recently Opened last weekend, King & sweet soy glaze and served opened eatery from Iron Chef Canvas is tucked under Tribeca with desiccated Korean nori Masaharu Morimoto that sits Canvas sitting on a pretty seaweed, and steamed braised- atop King & Canvas, the new stretch of Church Street. The lamb ragu buns topped with a lounge for which he has joint is styled much like yogurt raita and pickled daikon crafted the cocktail menu. a Prohibition-era boîte. relish. Though Gokan may not It was clear a minor Sumptuous burgundy be done trying to perfect the emergency was afoot: banquettes frame the cocktail offerings. the proper ice wasn’t yet periphery. Candelit black “The way I approached ready. Gokan only works marble tabletops dot this menu, the way I approach with ice produced to the cozy room. Vintage creating cocktails in general, I his specification: blocks portraits and mounted always try to improve them. I generated on-site using faux trophy heads always want to make another twist triple filtered water (one decorate the walls. on the drink. I tweak and tweak of the filtrations is through Though he’s and tweak and tweak,” he says, a bed of coconut husks) persnickety, Gokan makes looking down at the drinks sitting that he then sculpts away his needs known without on the bar. “We just tweaked to create spherical ice the dyspeptic delivery some of these this morning.” balls. A few tense minutes and that so often accompanies such the job, I didn’t have any sort served in a traditional sake — TAYLOR HARRIS a collective sigh later, the crisis demands. When asked why he’s of teacher or anyone showing box. “The sake box allows you was averted. Gokan believes insists on chipping his own ice, me. I just started making to enjoy the aroma while you King & Canvas the quality and shape of the ice instead of bloviating on about different things by myself and sip the drink,” he says. It takes 313 Church Street, is as important as the liquid artisanal ice, the soft-spoken learning,” he says. He moved Gokan four tries to find the N.Y., New York JENNA GREENE surrounding it. He’s fastidious Gokan explains, “[the drink] to New York and rose up the right box, emitting the aroma 917-720-2845 but not without reason: he doesn’t taste as good with all ranks, eventually finding the way he sees fit. Thursday through Sunday, from 10 p.m. to 4 a.m. fully expects to be serving a the cubes.…It keeps the flavor himself at Angels Share, an Other standout drinks PHOTOS BY WWD friday, june 21, 2013 11 WWD.COM

off really helps me reset.” For more Other guests at the party, Fashion scoops scoops, see like “Scandal’s” Katie Lowes, were just gearing up to work. “I’m producing a play HENRY NAMED AT JAEGER: Colin Henry has Research Fund, which benefits charitable WWD.com this summer with my NYU been tapped as chief executive officer of programs seeking new detection methods, theater friends,” she said. Jaeger, which was acquired by the private better treatments and potential cures for “Sometimes I think, ‘Who equity firm Better Capital in April 2012. cancers that affect women. am I right now?’ because I remember Henry, who will take up his new post Aniston follows in the ranks of former catering at events like this one. I’ve on July 15, was formerly chief product EIF ambassadors such as Penélope Cruz, done almost every job coming up in officer at Esprit, and has held senior Jennifer Hudson and Uma Thurman. Saks this town. In fact, I know several of the management roles at Umbro, Ralph will stage this year’s charity shopping people working here tonight.” Lauren and Marks & Spencer. weekend Oct. 17 to 20 at all Saks and — MARCY MEDINA He is Jaeger’s first chief executive Off 5th stores, and via saks.com. In since the acquisition. the 14 years since Saks launched its WOOL’S NIGHT: Woolmark Co. threw a As reported, Better Capital paid 19.5 first charitable shopping weekend, the dinner Wednesday night at Wallsé in million pounds, or $30.9 million at the retailer has raised more than $33 million New York to celebrate Narciso Rodriguez’s time, for a large majority stake in the for cancer research with the help of its one-year gig as a Woolmark ambassador. struggling company formerly owned by vendors and partners. The Breast Cancer “It’s been great. I’ve been working Harold Tillman. Research Foundation, EIF’s Women’s on an ad campaign [for Woolmark],” Belinda Earl served as ceo of the Cancer Research Fund, the Cleveland said Rodriguez. Designers and editors company when it was owned by Tillman, Clinic, Boston’s Dana-Farber Cancer such as Maria Cornejo, Cindi Leive, Anne who is the former chairman of the British Institute and the Nevada Cancer Institute Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen Fulenwider, Stefano Tonchi, Kristina O’Neill, Fashion Council. — SAMANTHA CONTI are among the organizations that have Virginia Smith and Anne Slowey gathered at benefited from KTTC. it’s still evolving, but I like the product the party hosted by Stuart McCullough, ceo ANISTON LENDS HAND — ROSEMARY and I hope that other people will too.” of Australian Wool Innovation, parent TO KEY TO CURE: Jennifer Jennifer FEITELBERG For guests like Ashley Madekwe and Ahna company of Woolmark. Aniston is headlining Saks Aniston in O’Reilly, fall couldn’t come soon enough. McCullough, who started his career as Fifth Avenue’s 2013 Key the Key to BAGGING IT: Mary-Kate “Do we get to take a bag home?” asked a jackaroo on a sheep farm before moving to the Cure campaign. the Cure T. and Ashley Olsen and Madekwe as she eyed the display. on to business management roles, told As the Entertainment InStyle’s Ariel Foxman (Guests were given a leather pouch as a the crowd that Woolmark is funded by Industry Foundation threw a cocktail party parting gift). “We knew sight unseen the farmers who provide Woolmark with a lot ambassador for the in the penthouse of product would be great,” said Foxman money, of which half goes to research and initiative, the actress Chateau Marmont of booking the magazine’s July feature development and half to marketing. Last will appear in ads on Wednesday night on the bags. “The girls have really week he was on a farm in outback Western wearing this year’s to celebrate the fall transcended being actresses who design Australia looking at sheep. “Today I’m limited-edition T-shirt launch of Elizabeth and clothes to being bona fide designers.” here at the other end of the supply chain,” designed by Emilio James’ handbags. “It’s Ashley Olsen said that she planned to said McCullough. “We’re aiming to get Pucci’s Peter Dundas. the first new category take a two-week vacation after finishing consumers to buy a wool suit, and not just As of Oct. 1, shoppers we’ve done in-house the resort collections. “I want to hang a sweater but a wool sweater.” Otherwise, will find the $35 item and we’ve been able to out with my friends whom I feel like I said McCullough, the farmers will come at Saks and Saks Off control the process, so haven’t seen in forever. I need that time up with other land uses. McCullough said 5th stores, as well as we are excited to see to relax so I can think ahead and focus his aim to position wool next to the best saks.com. All proceeds where that adventure on the future. When you get so busy and designers in the world, and that’s why he’s will be donated to the takes us,” said Mary- bogged down in day-to-day you forget happy to be partnering with Rodriguez. EIF’s Women’s Cancer Kate. “It takes time and to think about the next steps, so time — LISA LOCKWOOD MeMo pad

TACTICAL AND STRATEGIC: By now, Adam call the shots during Monday’s nine- Moss, the editor in chief of New York hour shoot at Highline Stages in the magazine, probably greets news of a Meatpacking District. True to form, senior editor departing with a shrug. the lensman kept the details about the The magazine is raided on a regular campaign sealed shut. What was clear small space basis by competitors. In 2011, he lost was that Johan Svensson served as art four editors to the New York Times, director, Edward Enninful was the stylist though he gained Frank Rich. and Stella Tennant modeled pieces from On Monday, Moss e-mailed staff with the fall collection. news about Ashlea Halpern, the editor “We really have a dream team — and of Strategist, the magazine’s service of course there’s Ralph,” said company section, which has won several awards president Jeffry Aronsson, who is already over the years. planning to go with the same creative Halpern, in charge of the section for group for the spring 2014 ads. a little more than a year, was leaving For the fall campaign, four different in two weeks to be Bon Appétit’s new shots will be used for two-page spreads special projects editor. in eight magazines such as W, Vogue It was too bad. Italia, Harper’s Bazaar and Numéro. “While it is self-evident that the Aronsson said the aim is to make Strategist has its own very powerful shoppers more familiar with how Rucci genetic material, Ashlea brought her has finessed his craft over the past 31 unique talents to the job,” Moss wrote. years. “Our focus is to target brand Strategist will be fine, though, awareness so that customers get a Big he continued. better understanding and appreciation He’s lost Strategist editors in the for our unique attributes,” he said. past, you see. Janet Ozzard left in 2010, Another way the company is trying to Jon Steinberg in 2011. Meh. Strategist set itself apart is by moving next week editors come and go, and the section into new 12,500-square-foot digs at 151 keeps winning awards — four in all West 26th Street. Couture clients stopping Business from the American Society of Magazine by for fittings and other visitors will get Editors, the most recent one this year. a good glimpse of the patternmakers “One of the nice things about how and seamstresses at work in the NoMad generous ASME has been to us in atelier. The set-up is meant to show off WWD Marketplace is the premier destination the magazine section category was the artistry that the designs require and that each time I seemed to be on the to celebrate the American-made goods, podium accepting this award, it was Aronsson said. “We have been building up for the industry’s classified and career listings. for a different Strategist editor,” Moss a very solid foundation of masterful work wrote. “Next year I have no doubt we’ll that Ralph has established over the past be deserving once again.” 31 years,” he said. He encouraged staffers to congratulate To coincide with the new ads, the Halpern — “Wish her luck and happiness company will unveil a revamped 800.423.3314 at Condé Nast.” — ERIK MAZA Web site with a limited number of e-commerce items. There are also RUCCI TAPS MEISEL: Ralph Rucci didn’t plans to introduce handbags, including wwd.com/marketplace spare any expense for his first major perhaps two or three on the runway advertising campaign. The designer during Rucci’s September show. lined up photographer Steven Meisel to — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

w21a011a;15.indd 11 6/20/13 8:23 PM 06202013202403 12 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 21, 2013 FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.COM OBITUARY WWD.com/ fashion-news. Designer Jean-Louis Scherrer, 78 {Continued from page one} stead to develop its other licens- cally good.” In 1986, he empha- then became an assistant at Dior es, including that for watches. sized to this newspaper that he alongside Yves Saint Laurent. In a statement, Bruno was spending more time on his After house founder Christian Bensoussan, chief executive rtw with the idea of reaching a Dior died suddenly in 1957, officer of JSB International, broader audience. “In the cou- Scherrer continued at the firm praised Scherrer as a “virtuoso ture, you can spend 300 hours under new head designer Saint and passionate designer, who on one dress,” he said. “ Yo u Laurent, before going briefly to symbolized Parisian elegance can’t do that in rtw. But today Louis Féraud. Scherrer launched and made a mark on his era.” there are so many beautiful fab- his own label in 1962, the same Didier Grumbach, presi- rics that you can get almost the year that Saint Laurent and André dent of the Chambre Syndicale, same feeling.” For his spring Courrèges struck out on their own. French fashion’s governing body, 1990 collection, he was in a “I liked him. He came from recalled that Scherrer’s first folkloric mood, and said that he the world of haute couture. shop at 182 Rue du Faubourg planned to do mixes of paisleys, The authentic one, the one of Saint-Honoré was owned by the lame and graphic prints. “We’ve yesteryear. A bygone world. He wife of a real estate promoter done a lot of texture work on had talent,” Pierre Bergé, Saint and sold couture in the base- simple fabrics like flannel and Laurent’s longtime business ment and rtw on the ground floor. wool covert,” he added, promis- partner, wrote on Twitter. The designer’s first collec- ing “strong and shocking” em- French Culture Minister tion was shown in a wine cellar broidery for evening. Aurélie Filippetti said in a with no retailers in attendance, “It’s a beautiful brand and a statement that with Scherrer’s but the second one was snapped prestigious house, with a fairly death, “an important chapter of up by Julia Trissel, a prominent dramatic and very, very tumul- the history of French haute cou- buyer at Bergdorf Goodman, tuous history,” noted Grumbach, ture has closed.” which carried it exclusively and who detailed the house’s numer- She added, “Worn by Claudia guaranteed it a strong start on ous changes of ownership in Cardinale, Jackie Kennedy, the U.S. market, he said. his 2008 book, “Histoires de la Françoise Sagan or Raquel Welch, Among the designer’s sig- Mode.” “Despite that, he main- his famous leopard-print cocktail nature looks were fluidly tai- tained a great reputation through dresses and polka-dot skirts were lored, masculine-feminine his couture designs, which were emblems of a new feminine sil- jackets and pantsuits; draped pleasant, slightly bourgeois and houette. Jean-Louis Scherrer, a cocktail dresses in animal, less radical than those of Saint universal artist who had dreamed floral and spotted prints, and Laurent, with whom he worked of becoming a dancer, flew the evening entrance-makers fea- at Dior,” Grumbach said. “The flag for French haute couture and turing elaborately beaded bod- quality of the workshops was ready-to-wear worldwide.” ices and jackets, which won very well-known.” From the start, however, him a faithful following among De Givenchy rued the fact Scherrer entrusted his name clients who included former that Scherrer’s business acu- and business interests to part- first lady of France Anne- men did not always match his ners, making for a bumpy career Aymone Giscard d’Estaing; design talent. “I admired him Jean-Louis PRESSE INTERNATIONAL PARIS that saw the brand change hands Queen Paola of Belgium; Pat among fellow couturiers, be- Scherrer in 1967 on numerous occasions. Its cur- Kennedy Lawford; Farah cause what he did was tasteful, rent owner is JSB International, Pahlavi, the former shahbanou sober and well-made,” said the BY PHOTO a French family-owned group of Iran; Christina Onassis, and veteran designer. “I was always of signature perfumes, among glimpse of her husband’s be- specializing in commercial real Isabelle d’Ornano. sorry about his setbacks, be- them Jean-Louis Scherrer, havior at home. “Jean-Louis estate and the international In 1972, Scherrer told WWD, cause he had a lot of talent, and Scherrer 2 and Indian Nights. is very sweet,” she said. “He wholesale distribution of luxury “I feel there is a very strong I don’t know how his business He also diversified with a line doesn’t mind if I buy a Kenzo or goods. It bought the house from return to classics, to a feeling was organized, but he had prob- of furs and licenses, including a Saint Laurent dress. In fact, Dumesnil Group in 2011, an- for quality. When you’re doing lems with his partners.” those for eyewear, shoes and ties. when we’re at small parties nouncing that it didn’t intend to funny boutique clothes, you After opening his self-named In an interview with WWD with friends, he prefers to see relaunch the dormant rtw and can cheat a bit on fabric or cut, store on Avenue Montaigne in in 1980, Scherrer’s then-wife me in somebody else’s clothes. couture lines, but planned in- but classics have to be intrinsi- 1971, Scherrer launched a series Laurence gave a charming But he can also be extremely difficult. When he sees me in something he doesn’t like — Jean-Louis Scherrer and he simply refuses to leave the his daughter Laetitia in the house.” Scherrer’s daughter fall 1988 rtw finale. Laetitia was his longtime muse and modeled in his shows in the Eighties and early Nineties. The Scherrer brand was owned by Standard Oil heir Francis Francis and the French beauty company Orlane, and finally reverted to Scherrer in 1976. In 1990, the designer sold it to a group majority-owned by his longtime Japanese li- censee, Seibu. In December of 1992, however, Scherrer was fired from his house, replaced DORDEVIC CEDRIC Laetitia Scherrer in a A suit and coat HURE LUCE JEAN by designer Eric Mortensen. jacket and shorts from from the fall 1972 Scherrer expressed his shock at the spring 1991 rtw. couture collection. this move in an article in WWD BY PHOTO BY PHOTO headlined “I Was Fired Like a Street Sweeper.” “Why would I do something against myself? What would be my interest? How can they say that?” he asked. “I don’t know what Eric Mortensen understands about my style. I think Karl Lagerfeld understands Chanel and does something with the style — but Chanel is dead. But Scherrer?” Stéphane Rolland designed its couture collections for a decade, starting in 1998. The store on Avenue Montaigne closed in 2008. Scherrer won a Dé d’Or, or Golden Thimble, award for the best couture collection in 1980. He was made an officer of the

Colorful blouses and A dramatic evening COSTES PIERRE Legion of Honor, France’s high- skirts from the spring dress from the spring est civilian decoration, in 2009. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS

1986 couture. 1986 couture. BY PHOTO FROM LORNA KOSKI