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Registered with the Reg. No. TN/CH(C)/374/09-11 Registrar of Newspapers Licence to post without prepayment for under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. WPP 506/09-11 Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS INSIDE • Short ‘N’ Snappy • The missing Madras Bulwark • Kaliya’s subjugation • Bharata Natyam’s name • Madras Week events

Vol. XXI No. 8 MUSINGS August 1-15, 2011 What is happening at the Adyar Poonga? “I have no clue what I’m supposed to do, but let me at least try to look as tough and busy as him!” (By A Special Correspondent) When the he Adyar Poonga was a project that remained in the limelight ‘Twain Go Trysting ... Tfrom almost start to finish. Begun as a response to public inter- Big-Shot visitors from Bigger- est litigations demanding the protection of the , the Shot nations choosing to put park was created at a cost of Rs. 19 crore, spent over three years. It Chennai on their must-visit was to have a high profile inauguration which became a subdued list. one for political reasons. Since then, despite an encouraging re- Nice. sponse with footfalls exceeding 4000 in two months, it would ap- That sense of playing in the Big pear that the Government, especially with a change in regime, has League – So gratifying! lost interest in the project. Which would indeed be a pity, if true. Even better – the delightful little To recap, the uncontrolled exploitation of the area had been through-the-looking-glass mo- challenged by the Citizen, consumer and civil Action Group ments that spring up at such A view of the Adyar Poonga with its plentiful signage. meetings when worlds collide. (CAG) in the court during the Like – on one hand, hard-jawed, building of the Ambedkar Me- tough-looking guys in black, morial and, in 2000, the High with spiral wires dangling from Court had directed the State Is the beat constable their ears, obsidian glasses Government to preserve the darting laser-like all over. wetlands. On December 22, On the other, our own ‘tough 2003 the State Government guys’, equally keen...okay, not handed over 58 acres of the area feasible any longer? all of them sport the lean- to the city’s Corporation to de- mean-machine look. And yes, velop it into an eco park mod- n the light of repeated terror- of Police, who made a success Secondly, most houses have they sometimes get distracted ist attacks in various metros out of the system in Trichy, now been replaced by highrise. by dignitaries...but hey, we elled on Tezozomac of Mexico. I The budget for creating the of the country, the importance hopes to repeat the same here Where one family lived there don’t need no lessons from no- of the beat constable, who as well. He has declared that the are several which means a cor- body. park, Rs.60 crore, was passed in But what’s with some of those 2005 and a special purpose ve- would know every little detail of scheme will take policing out of respondingly higher number of men-in-black and that peren- hicle (SPV), Adyar Creek Eco what is happening in his local- the stations and make it more individuals. This is in addition nial hand-tucked-in-coat ges- Park Limited, was set up to har- ity, is being realised. The Prime visible and interactive. to support staff and those who ture? ness and channel the funds for Minister made a statement to In the past, Chennai was call on errands such as delivery Napoleon complex? development. An Adyar Creek this effect in 2007 and ever known for the efficacy of its personnel. How are all these Little worrying – this hint of con- Trust was set up with the Chief since then the matter has been beat constables. The city was people to be tracked by a beat stant edginess. Secretary as the Chairman and in focus off and on. Recently, then small and had specifically constable? Our audiences are noisy; cell the Chennai police has decided designated residential and of- Lastly, shortage of police phones blare; sometimes, ban- Secretaries of Highways, For- ests, Fisheries, Municipal Ad- to revive the concept of assign- personnel in Chennai is a well- ners come unpinned and waft ing areas for beat coverage by known fact. In 2010, the short- to the ground ... and the ubiq- ministration & Water Supply, G By A Special police personnel up to the rank age was around 3000 and, this uitous mike checker will go: and Finance as members. Correspondent ‘ullo-‘ullo-‘ullo-(Squeeekkk)- Strangely enough, the CAG of sub-inspector. But the ques- year, an estimate has it that, at miketestingmiketesting...uh- was never made part of the tion remains as to whether the a ratio of one constable to every wontwothree...(Screeech)... body. concept is feasible any longer, fice areas. The former largely 413 residents, Chennai ranks The last thing you want is some Environmentalists subse- given the rapidly changing na- had independent houses and it very low in terms of police pro- clueless, jumpy ‘Them’ going quently suggested the handing ture of the city and its suburbs. was easy to know who lived tection. What is more, several all Gunfight at O.K. Corral. The new system being imple- where. But over a period of of these policemen are fre- They need lessons. over of the entire 350 acres of the Creek for protection and mented envisages placing 460 time, all that has changed. quently deployed for providing Like: On the sub-continent, al- “pockets” under the jurisdiction security to VIPs. Even in 2009 ways expect the unexpected... also questioned as to how only Mixed zoning has been in effect and make ‘simply adjust’ your 58 acres of it could be preserved of the 90 police stations within for over a decade and so offices it was announced that con- motto. without access to the waters of city limits. Each pocket would and residences co-exist. The stables would be put back on Know something? the estuary which was the life- be assigned to an SI and a few presence of commercial entities duty from VIP service, but this The Man was wrong – the ‘Twain line of the area and which policemen. They will patrol the means most areas of the city is yet to take place. As a conse- do meet these days. would be cut off with the pro- area and maintain a close link witness a large amount of float- quence, it is very unclear as to And perhaps the world’s a better posed development. with students, traders and resi- ing population by day and, in how beat patrolling can be place for it. dents. The patrols will work places where IT companies and Ranjitha Ashok (Continued on page 2) three shifts. The Commissioner call centres exist, by night also. (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 August 1-15, 2011

What’s on at the The Madam – Mutt muddle Adyar Poonga? he Man from Madras T Musings notices that the (Continued from page 1) doing the rounds of suppliers’ city’s civic body has suddenly bestirred itself. Street and road The State Government filed bills remaining unpaid (a names are now prominently a writ petition before the Court common enough Government displayed at junctions and in- requesting permission to practice). A change of Govern- tersections on well-designed proceed with the work. It stated ment has not helped and in May display boards. As to how long that the objective of the Poonga it was decided that only groups these signboards will remain Trust was to restore the wetland of students would be allowed unmolested by posters and in the Adyar Estuary area, com- into the park. While this is in handbills is anybody’s guess. prising 58 acres, and to create keeping with the original intent But MMM realises that the Corporation cannot be blamed an ecologically sensitive zone of creating an information faci- if the citizens of Madras that is nurturing the flora and fauna lity for students at the park, Chennai do not have civic peculiar to the locality with hu- what is surprising is that it sense and persist in defacing man interface. It also claimed should be out of bounds for signboards. Perhaps the civic that objections and suggestions everyone else. body can think of putting up a received from several stake- In the meantime, lack of signboard next to each of these what the Corporation follows. ugly tubelights (with the hold- holders including NGOs like maintenance is already showing name boards with a statement But are they and the establish- ers prominently declaring the Exnora International and the up. The wings of an eagle statu- to the effect that anyone de- ments themselves not aware names of the donors) were all CAG were considered. Interest- ette came crashing down facing the latter will be se- that a ‘mutt’ in English is a practically invisible. There following high speed winds one verely punished. But what if mongrel? Or in the colloquial, was no power (and so what’s ingly, the Government stuck to an idiot? Several years ago, the new in Chennai) and the only evening in May and are yet to that board (the warning its plan of restoring only 58 board) is also covered with Corporation opted for the word illumination was from oil acres and not the entire area, be put back. It is also not clear posters? ‘Madam’ in place of ‘Mutt’ and lamps. Complete silence pre- something which environmen- what will be done with the rest Perhaps the easiest way out the venerable establishments vailed, for the public address talists claim will be unsustain- of the Rs.60 crore that is yet to would be to post (pun fully in- were incensed and up in arms. system had gone quiet, and the able. be spent. Certainly there is no tended) a policeman next to Were they to be associated with only connect with the present When almost completed, sign of any activity on the site each signpost. But knowing women running disorderly es- times was the persistent ring- the park, which till then had as of now. that our city is pretty short of tablishments of ill-repute, they ing of cell phones. MMM was been referred to as the Adyar The project was rather constabulary, MMM feels that thundered. They wanted it to able to pray in peace and quiet. Poonga, was renamed Tholkap- grandly declared to be a the best option would be to al- be Mutts once again and the Oh, what is to be the subject low nature to take its course, Corporation gave in. matter for this column, MMM piya Poonga. The inauguration wetland restoration exercise by which he means that after The Madam-Mutt Muddle asked, and presently his was to be attended by the Prime when it began. It is worth point- man pastes posters, they can (MMM) has been occupying prayers were answered. Minister, who chose to stay ing out that the park is in no be left to cows and goats to eat the mind of MMM ever since. The power supply was re- away. The Chief Minister then way connected to the estuary them up or for rain to come ‘Math’ is a suitable option, but stored just as MMM finished declared the park open in Janu- and, therefore, the river to down and wash them away. his prayers. The PA system ary. Work, however, continued qualify as wetland restoration. When the new signposts sprang to life, roaring out a de- till March and it was only then But as a piece of open space put were put up, MMM had a field SHORT ’N’ votional number thereby en- that the park was opened to the to environmentally friendly use day going around looking for suring that none could get on public. Informed sources have it it is exemplary and it will be howlers. Unfortunately he did SNAPPY with his personal prayers. tragic if it is neglected owing to not carry a camera and such Then came the automated that the Government lost inter- bell-cum-drum which began considerations political or gems as Wheat Craft (for est in the park owing to Wheatcroft) could not be re- going thud-thud-clang-thud- otherwise. elections and there are stories corded for posterity. By the that is a subject in which MMM thud-clang. The tubelights time MMM made a journey was never strong and so he came on, revealing their ugly that way again, this time would rather not consider it. holders and also the huge THE BEAT CONSTABLES armed with a camera, the sign- Going by international tran- holes that had been dug to let board had been corrected. in the ducting for aircondi- in a neighbourhood, is imple- scription standards, the word (Continued from page 1) While MMM was not happy at ought to be written as tioning. Devotees had after all mented. That way, sitting in a such efficiency, for it robbed ‘maTham’ with ‘Th’ standing changed with the times and effective if the requisite number police booth, the police can him of the opportunity of for the hard version of t. But as expected 21st Century com- of policemen is not available. keep an eye on an entire shoving in a photograph into this will not make sense on a forts. Those on cellphones had Taking recourse to modern neighbourhood. The police may this column and thereby save road sign, what about to speak louder so that they technology may on the other also want to build a network on a few words, he could not ‘Muthum’? Can this be inter- could be heard above the din. hand prove more effective. The with security agencies that man but admire the alacrity with preted to mean a kiss? Once It appeared to MMM that police has already experimented various private enclaves and which the Corporation had again we run the risk of the while prayers were a sure way with the installation of cameras worked. ‘Mutts’/‘Madams’/‘Maths’/ to heaven, such high decibel gated communities. Perhaps the temples were a near enough at traffic junctions to monitor Truly the city’s civic body ‘maThams’ being up in arms. best method would be to build does not sleep. But as an illus- approximation to hell. violations. It may help if a simi- Can it be ‘Mattam’? Would that further confidence and tration of the adage that you not mean inferior and worse? His inner peace having lar plan, in terms of street cam- strengthen communications cannot keep a good man And so what is the way out, been shattered, MMM left. It eras to monitor what is going on with local residents. down, MMM is happy to share MMM would very much like to was only much later that he with you another howler and know. realised that his prayer had thereby save on a few words been answered after all. He SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS after all! Now, what Sevalia In silence & darkness had enough for the column! G Since Volume XIV, No.1 (April 16, 2003), Madras Musings has been priced means MMM is unable to at Rs.5 a copy, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Rs.100/-. Please make out your fathom. Could it be the En- ach time the deadline for Tailpiece cheque only to CHENNAI HERITAGE and send it, together with the COU- glish spelling of the Tamil pro- Ethis column approaches, PON, to CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, nunciation of the French word The Man from Madras Musings he Man from Madras , Chennai 600 014 or C/O LOKAVANI SOUTHERN PRINTERS Chevalier? Going by the same is filled with a nameless dread. T Musings was at the airport PVT. LTD., 62/63, GREAMES ROAD, CHENNAI 600 006. logic, and if this thoroughfare What if nothing strange or pe- last week. Never very comfort- An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION of just Rs.100 covers only a part of our had retained its old name culiar happens in the presence able with the thought of being costs. Corporate support and YOUR support will continue to be essential for of MMM and he is unable to Chennai Heritage and Madras Musings to play a greater role in creating aware- (Boag Road), it would have no airborne, he was not in the ness about the city, its heritage and its environment. We therefore look for- doubt been spelt as Poke Salai. produce the requisite number least assured by the announce- ward to your sending us your contributions IN ADDITION TO your Be that as it may, MMM of words to fill in? The Chief’s ment which went – “Dear Pas- subscriptions. has digressed considerably demeanour would be hard sengers, this is your call for the If in the coming year Chennai Heritage receives repeated support from from what he set out to write enough to deal with. So, on final departure…” The voice those of you who have already made contributions, and if many more support- about when he thought of the such occasions, he resorts to not realising the havoc it was ers join the bandwagon, we will not only be able to keep Madras Musings inspiring headline for this sec- the divine and prays at temples, causing to the more sensitive going, but also be able to continue awareness-building exercises on on-going all the while keeping one eye projects as well as undertake one or two more such exercises. tion of his fortnightly outpour- and nervous, repeated the ings. Writing Indian words in open for anything funny hap- same thing at least three times Therefore, please keep your contributions coming IN ADDITION TO YOUR pening in the vicinity. SUBSCRIPTIONS. If, say, you send in a cheque for Rs.500, we will treat English is quite a challenge before, no doubt, some well- Rs.100 of it towards subscription to Madras Musings for 2011-12 and the and MMM’s sympathy is with With the muse playing truant meaning supervisor noted the remaining Rs.400 as contribution towards the causes Chennai Heritage es- the Corporation. What, for in- this time, it was back to temples obvious. The announcements pouses. stance, is the English spelling for MMM. As he entered a were set right after that, but We look forward to all readers of Madras Musings, and those newcomers for the Sanskrit word that fairly well-known shrine, not MMM’s nervous system. who want to receive copies, sending in their subscriptions. stands for a religious establish- MMM had a feeling of having – The Editor ment? Is it Mutt? For that is gone back in time. For one, the – MMM August 1-15, 2011 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 The abysmal state of English ecently I had an e-mail from an official with is where the decline starts. Rthe State Government, seeking some help. I am aware that our ‘native’ politicians – ei- Kelly’s death lion etc.?). At the time of his What dismayed me was the prose used in com- ther in Madras or elsewhere in India – fan ani- municating his request. mosity against the English language by alleging ince jotting down a note death (September 25, 1790) Col. Kelly was in command of I have noticed increasing number of similar that English would destroy Tamil in Madras Sabout the demise of Col. badly written letters (e-mails) in the recent and other Indian languages elsewhere in Robert Kelly (MM, June 16th) the troops of the 21st Battalion, past. Seeing this trend – which I believe is wors- India.This is a myth. Sadly, our youth are led for MM, I have come across the then being gathered to oppose ening day by day – I began to worry about the by this myth. The best Tamil scholars of yes- following additional informa- Tippu Sultan. Mrs. Miriam status of English communication in a country teryears professed excellent English language tion on his death. Col.Kelly was Kelly died at an advanced age which prided itself on using graceful English. Is skills and they enabled growth of Tamil, which actually killed in a duel (not in (1837) and lies buried at this the land that produced K. Swaminathans, none can refute. The attitude of some of the battle) in a field near Arni by St.Thomas Mount Canton- V.S. Srinivasa Sastris, R.K. Narayans and A.K. present-day Madras politicians is highly myo- Lt.Col.Vigors, Col. Kelly’s ment Cemetery. Ramanujans, who spoke and wrote simple and pic and parochial. elegant English? What has gone wrong? None We need to keep in mind that English is no deputy. Tradition has it that on Rev.Philip K.Mulley seems to be worried about this woeful decline. more the language of the people of England, Col. Kelly’s appointment to Coonoor Should a language die naturally, it can be ac- North America, Australia and New Zealand Command, Lt.Col.Vigors spoke [email protected] cepted; but if a language is killed by sheer alone; it is the world language today. In the of him as an “old woman” to his abuse, it cannot be tolerated. present global scenario, a well-rounded capac- wife, who repeated the remark State of the roads My gut feeling is that the quality of teaching ity in seeking and writing simple, fault-free En- to Mrs. Kelly, who insisted upon English – as a language – at different learning glish is what would keep us ahead of the Chi- Col. Kelly obtaining “satisfac- he rave about Chennai levels has declined to abysmal depths. English nese – who are becoming an indomitable world tion” result with death. Accord- Tstreets’ new looks in the a- language teachers do not encourage their learn- human force. If we continue to nourish it. Musings column (MM, July 1st) ers to think in English before they either speak ing to LeFanu, a noted chroni- A. Raman is rather hasty and uncalled for. or write in English; they follow a practice that cler of those days (who also Charles Sturt University I wonder if the author noticed drives developing English language skills authored the extremely well re- through the learners’ mother tongues and that Orange, New South Wales Australia searched Salem Gazetteer), “the the water pools in all the streets story has been so handed down, without any exception after a and in those days, it was noth- ‘good shower’ – heavy rain. Ev- 16th) outlines the whole to Madras, many outsiders Centre of CMFRI. It is ing extraordinary that life ery street, which earlier problem. As long as the Central pronounce Chennai as Chen-nai, better the well-known name should be lost for such a trifle.” ‘sported’ puddles and precari- Pollution Control Board not exactly flattering the city. Madras is restored at an early ously unfathomable depths, (CPCB) confines itself to date. Lt.Col.Urban Vigors later N. Dharmeshwaran erected an imposing monument now sports knee-deep pools as “collecting data” on noise and the Corporation has just forgot- other kinds of pollution and Plot 21, Dr. D.B. James as a mark of respect for gallant Guduvancherry 603 202 37, Sadasiva Metha Street Col. Kelly, in the old parade ten about having proper drain- presenting it to the media age for rainwater as well as sew- instead of living up to its name Metha Nagar ground in the fort at Arni. Still Madras Chennai 600 029 age water. by taking positive measures to Col. Kelly, in other records, control pollution, we as he name Madras which Madras that’s Chennai has been described as “an able The forgotten pedestrian is no doubt suffering as usual, but defenceless citizens will Twas in use for more than 400 hakespeare said a rose by and distinguished officer who continue to suffer. Every day years all over the world was any other name would had seen much service.” As a the vehicle owners are also S knee-deep in water in all those people get away with doing suddenly dropped, saying that it smell equally sweet. So, Captain, he commanded the more and more harm to injure had some foreign connection. whether it is Chennai or 9th Battalion which, it was said, roads, inching their way to their destinations. our ears and brain – reverse When I write to my foreign friends Madras, the city will always came to be known by his name. horns, crackers, loudspeakers they ask me where is this Chennai! remain charming and intel- I request the author to have A gruesome episode in his ca- and what not. Temples get away Apart from the many Madras lectual. good a look at some important reer happened in 1775. Capt. with blaring loudspeakers institutions mentioned by Dr. H.K. Siddhu Kelly, while at Palamcottah, junctions such as , through the night. Lakshman Rao, my former office is 12, Lakshmi Colony, T.Nagar tried his native commandant ,Thiru-Vi-Ka I frequently come across still known as Madras Research Chennai 600 017 for mutiny and blew him from a Industrial Estate, etc. before noise of crackers being burst gun (a forerunner-martyr of drooling over the roads’ looks well beyond midnight. When mutinies that followed – and condition. there is a rule that you cannot Vellore Mutiny, Sepoy Rebel- OUR ADDRESSES Kanchana Ravi indulge in this between 10 pm [email protected] and 6 am, how is it that the vio- For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of receipts lators get away with it? This is etc.: CHENNAI HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, READABILITY EDITOR’S NOTE: The col- where the CPCB needs to act Royapettah, Chennai 14. PLEASE umn was about road signs, not and control and wipe out the about the state of the roads menace instead of being mere Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters to the editor can be Dear Readers, which Madras Musings has com- data collectors. I squarely blame sent via email to [email protected]. Those who wish to intimate mented on numerous times. the Board. change of address can also do so provided the subscription number is As letters from readers increase, quoted. For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other we are receiving more and more The exiled Gaekwad Ravi Kumar Nair circulation matters: Madras Musings, C/o Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. hand written letters, many of [email protected] uthor Karthik A. Bhatt , in Ltd., 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. them in a hand so small and A scientific reason? illegible or large and scrawled as A‘When the Congress met On editorial matters: The Editor, Madras Musings, C/o Lokavani to be unreadable. Often this leads in Madras’, makes a mistake in t is one thing to restor- Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. to our discarding a letter, calling Khanderao Gaekwad Iing the name of Madras and No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will be sent particularly if some part of it is “the usurper of the Baroda another to say that changing from these addresses every couple of days to the persons concerned and unreadable. throne” (MM, July 16th). the Tamil New Year to January you will get an answer from them to your queries reasonably quickly. Khanderao Gaekwad, a popular If you wish us to consider your 14th was a hasty decision. I do Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ approach, we will be ruler, was the ninth of thirteen not know whether even letter for publication, please type able to help you faster and disappoint you less. Gaekwad maharajas and was it with enough space between Dr. Kalaignar, who steered the well known for his court and change, was aware that this step THE EDITOR lines or write it using a medium patronage of artists. It was his was more scientific and geo- hand, clearly dotting the ‘i-s’ and brother Malharrao who ruled graphical than the mere Pongal crossing the ‘t-s’. MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB briefly after Khanderao and was festivities that occur then, as Many readers also try to fill every exiled to Madras for unseemly against the scorching summer To reach out to as many readers as possible who share our keen interest square centimetre of a postcard conduct. in April, the traditional Tamil in Madras that is Chennai, and in response to requests from many well- space, making reading or editing New Year. wishers – especially from outside Chennai and abroad who receive their impossible. Sudha Venkataraman [email protected] The earth on its rotation postal copies very late – for an online edition. Madras Musings is now on Please help us to consider your around the Sun changes its di- the web at www.madrasmusings.com letters more favourably by mak- Board to blame rection to North on January ing them more legible for us. he very first paragraph of 14th and to South on June THE EDITOR – THE EDITOR Tthe article on the noise pol- 14th, but no such event marks lution in the city (MM, July April 14th. As for getting back

4 MADRAS MUSINGS August 1-15, 2011

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Was the Madras Bulwark where it is marked on this 1881 composite picture? – Courtesy VINTAGE VIGNETTES. he de Havilland family was ing could exceed the confi- Tone that could trace its an- dence with which certainly the cestry to the times of William majority of persons at Madras the Conqueror, a Sieur de The missing Madras predicted that every stone Havilland, having accompanied would disappear into the sands him in his conquest of England. or be thrown into the middle of Since then, de Havillands had bulwark Black Town by the surf and the distinguished themselves in the hurricanes.” But it is evident service of the Crown and made from Cotton’s writings that a Britons and the Architecture of ous study on the subject, and on top of the bulwark (A Popu- their home on the island of few stones did get displaced. South India, Yoda Press, 2007), this was later reproduced in the lar History of British India, W.C. Guernsey, off the English coast. These were evidently the lighter probably due to the patronage Madras Journal of Literature and Taylor, 1851), overseen by de From this family came Thomas ones. “So perfectly insignificant extended by Sir John Malcolm, Science in 1834. A stone, later Havilland. Fiott de Havilland who, joined have been the effect of hurri- the Resident of Mysore, who in named de Havilland’s bench- the Madras Engineers and be- The Madras Bulwark was canes upon it, that not a stone 1807 gave him his first architec- mark, was let into the bulwark came a Lieutenant-Colonel in clearly something of a wonder above two or three cwt have tural contract – the task of of the Fort and all tide levels 1824. In 1808 he married Eliza- for it was taken up as a subject been thrown upon the bank by building a magnificent banquet- were subsequently measured beth de Saumarez in Madras. of study when the Great North them.” (Letter from Capt. Cot- ing hall in the Mysore Resi- against it, till the construction Holland Canal was being con- ton to the Secretary of the A Biographical Dictionary of dency, a unique structure that of the harbour in the 1890s templated in Europe in 1849 to Breakwater Committee, Ma- Civil Engineers in Great Britain would have a roof entirely free caused the sea to recede. prevent the sea from entering dras, 11th Nov. 1837 taken from and Ireland by Sir Alec W. of column support. When this The Madras Bulwark, when the Low Countries. It was noted Reports, Correspondence and Skempton (ICE and Thomas was done, de Havilland submit- completed in 1820, extended that prior to the bulwark, in- Original Papers on various profes- Telford Limited, London, 2002) ted a proposal to build a bridge for two and a half miles from the roads “of up to 100 yards in sional subjects connected with the gives further details of his life. across the Cauvery in Mysore Fort to Black Town and was extent had been made in the duties of the Corps of Engineers, Born on April 10, 1775 to Sir with just five arches. To dem- completed “well within its esti- beach” by the sea. “A protect- , Capt. J.T. Peter and Lady Cartarette de onstrate his skill in building it, mate and to the complete satis- ing bulwark was constructed of Smith, Mission Press, Havilland, he joined the Ma- de Havilland erected a great about a mile and three quarters Madras, 1839). Cotton was dras Engineers in 1792. In 1793 arch in his garden, with a hun- in length along the ordinary line writing all this to drum up sup- he was involved in the siege of dred-foot span. The structure of the beach, just beyond the port for building a breakwater Pondicherry and between 1795 became a local landmark and Lost Landmarks point where the surf waves off Madras, the first of many and 1796 served in Colombo. stood till 1937 when it col- broke and in hurricanes it was steps that would be taken in a Having seen active service at lapsed. The remains of the de of Madras subject to the full action of the project that culminated with the siege of Seringapatam in Havilland arch are a tourist at- An occasional series waves. It was composed simply the construction of the Madras 1799, de Havilland sufficiently traction in Seringapatam even by SRIRAM V. of rough stones, resting against Harbour in the 1890s. In this he impressed Arthur Wellesley now. The brick bridge over the a retaining wall of brick and was to find a warm supporter in (later the Duke of Wellington) Cauvery was completed in 1810 chunam. The stones have been de Havilland, who had retired to be invited to become the in which year de Havilland allowed to take their natural by then to England. Cotton’s Field Engineer during the Egyp- joined a group of officers who faction of the local government slope… and although the bul- ideas were however not imple- tian campaign of 1801/02. Sur- mutinied, protesting against the and the Court of Directors at vey had always been a passion wark was not carried above the mented. appalling conditions of the home and having answered its ordinary level of the coast, for him, he having been an un- Where was the Madras Bul- army in Mysore. He was dis- stated purpose these thirty years which was 18 feet above high derstudy to Colin Mackenzie wark? It clearly extended from missed and returned to past, without addition or repair” water, it might be said that between 1798 and 1800 with the Fort and ran parallel to the Guersney where he was com- (A Visitation of the seats and arms scarcely a stone had been dis- the latter regarding him as “an Esplanade, ending somewhere missioned to construct a bar- of the Noblemen and Gentlemen placed since it was first erected active enterprising man.” Un- on First Line Beach. What hap- racks. Reinstated in 1812, he by Sir Bernard Burke, 1853, in 1821.” (Description of the der Mackenzie, de Havilland pened to it later? According to returned to Madras and became Hurst and Blackett, London). Great North Holland Canal and ‘amused himself’ (according to the Madras Terecentenary Vol- a civil engineer and architect of Sir Thomas Munro, Governor of the works at Niewediep by Skelton) by preparing maps of ume, the structure, known to all the Presidency in 1814. of Madras, thought highly of de George Briant Wheeler Jack- Coimbatore, Dindigul and the as de Havilland’s Bulwark, It would be no exaggeration Havilland and wrote as follows: son, Institution of Civil Engi- surrounding areas. In Egypt he formed the foundation on to say that he is one of the earli- “I have a high opinion of his tal- neers, W Clowes & Sons, Lon- undertook survey work too, which the Beach Road, fronting est engineers of the city whose ents and of his public services, don,1849). identifying sources of water in works can be identified with any and have expressed my sense of the Fort runs. So, obviously, the Cairo-Suez area. certainty. According to them on several occasions. In And yet, when it was first with the building of the After his return from Egypt, Skelton, he “built Mount the case of the bulwark in par- taken up, the bulwark was harbour, the sea receded and on which journey he was cap- Road”, which probably means ticular, I recommended his scoffed at. We have details of the road was built on the bul- tured by the French and later he gave the northern half of the claims to the Honourable this from the writings of another wark. In 1967, when a subway released, he was assigned to the road its present contours. Court, because I was convinced formidable engineer of the Ma- was built to connect North Nizam’s Subsidiary Force to sur- Among his earliest commissions that he had shown great skill in dras Presidency – Sir Arthur Beach and South Beach Roads, vey the Deccan. He appears to in the city was the construction the plan of tile work, and that Cotton. “So much doubt ex- excavations revealed the Ma- have been called increasingly of a protecting bulwark all along he had by his extraordinary ex- isted as to the success of any dras Bulwark. More of it sur- for civilian work from then on. the sea front to prevent the no- ertions completed it at a much work on the protection of the faced in 1978 when the area Involved as he was in the engi- torious Madras surf from caus- smaller expense than it could, beach and so strongly was every near the Beach Station was dug neering side of the army, de ing any damage to the Town perhaps, have been done by any proposition on the subject op- up. No doubt, the ongoing Havilland made a name for and Fort. This he did after a de- other person.” (The Military posed that probably nothing less Metro Rail work will throw up himself in scientific observa- tailed study of the tides by History of Madras Engineers and than the immediate certain de- some more bits of the Bulwark. tions and constructions, the lat- means of installing a tide gauge Pioneers from 1743 up to the struction of Black Town, if There is more to de ter being both military and civil at the northeastern angle of the present time, by Major nothing was done, would have Havilland than just the Bul- in nature. This was, according Fort’s glacis. In 1821 he pub- H.M. Vibart, W.H. Allen and proved a sufficiently powerful wark. His residence is one more to Shanti Jayawardene Pillai lished a memorandum on Ma- Company, London, 1883). In incentive, to the execution of missing landmark. Will come to (Imperial Conversations: Indo - dras tides, perhaps the first seri- 1823, an iron railing was put up such a work, on any plan. Noth- it in a later issue… August 1-15, 2011 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 The subjugation of Kaliya – and an object lesson in peaceful co-existence

he story of how the divine was vomiting blood. Kaliya’s themes, valuable for their range Tchild, Krishna, battled with many wives, thereupon, swam and perception. Some of these and subdued the monstrous to the site of the battle and en- were collected and edited by Jo- serpent Kaliya is one of the best- treated the Lord to spare their seph Campbell, famous my- known myths in India and is husband’s life. Kaliya too thologist. In one such note, celebrated in art and literature. prayed for his life to be spared. Zimmer had dealt with the The story is told in the Krishna relented and released theme of Kaliya’s subjugation Bhagavata Purana, the Vishnu the serpent on condition that by Krishna. Purana, Harivamsa and else- he abandoned his residence in Zimmer sees in the tale of where. the river, since it was the fount Kaliya and Krishna many layers Kaliya originally dwelt in of life for men and cattle, and of meaning. At one level, it was Ramanaka, the home of the ser- go to the remote ocean. As an the story of suppression of a pents. The serpents had to pro- added token of grace, he con- primitive serpent cult by the pitiate Garuda (or Suparna), ferred on him protection from worship of an anthropomorphic their inveterate enemy, by leav- the wrath of Garuda so that divine saviour. “Through the ing a tribute at the foot of a tree even away from the safe haven intermediary, Krishna, the spe- every month at the Full Moon. of Kalindi, he had no reason to cial cult of a local demon be- But Kaliya, arrogant in the fear Garuda. came merged into the wide- knowledge of the power of his In the vanquished Kaliya’s spread, general cult of Vishnu, Krishna’s subjugation of Kaliya – a bronze, circa 16th Century AD (Courtesy: Cobra and Government Museum, Chennai.) venom, ignored Garuda. In- prayer to the Lord, there is a the Supreme Bieng, and thus censed by this rebellion, Garuda plaintive admission of the help- was linked into a context of su- God’s essence, and had ap- other creations, to “abound on swooped down on Kaliya and lessness of the serpent to desist perior symbolic import, repre- peared out of the all-producing, the earth and be fruitful and beat him up with his powerful from evil. According to the senting concepts and intuitions primary, divine substance. multiply on the earth” (Gen- wings. Kaliya was no match for Bhagavata, Kaliya says: “We are of a general validity.” He sees a There could be no elimination, esis). God, therefore, not only the ferocious Garuda, and had once and for all, of this presence let off the serpent lightly when to jump into the river Yamuna, which to Man seemed wholly it committed a major transgres- or Kalindi, to escape further at- negative. Krishna effected only sion in the Garden of Eden but tack. It was clever of him to seek ● by B. VIJAYARAGHAVAN a kind of boundary settlement, also, notwithstanding that a refuge in Kalindi for he knew it a balanced judgement as be- convenient opportunity had was out of bounds for Garuda. tween demons and men. For the arisen later to see the last of the Once, Garuda had caught a good of the human kingdom, serpent when the Deluge over- fish from Kalindi and, in doing born wicked, ignorant and ran- parallel in the account in Greek Kaliya was assigned to a remoter took the Earth, did not want the so, had incurred the wrath of a corous. And it is hard to get rid mythology of Apollo’s conquest sphere, but he was allowed to serpent and its kin to be wiped rishi, Saubhari, who was medi- of one’s natural disposition, O of the earthbound serpent lord remain unchanged both in na- out for ever. tating there. The rishi cursed Lord, because of its tenacious at Delphi and establishing him- ture and in power. Had he been Apart from the Bible, the Garuda that if he ever again vis- hold on one. Thou hast made, self in the serpent’s place as the transformed, redeemed, or alto- analogous theme of serpent ver- ited the river, he would pay with by means of the gunas, O cre- fount of the Delphic prophe- gether eliminated, the counter- sus divine or semi-divine power his life. Kaliya, therefore, with ator, this universe with its infi- cies. play between human and de- is found in Western mythology his many wives, was quite se- nite diversity and multifarious But a better parallel is found monic, productive and destruc- in the story of Herakles, son of cure in the river Kalindi. But his dispositions, every creature be- in Indian scripture itself. If tive energies would have been Zeus, the Supreme Lord of the venom was so noxious that it ing unique in its nature, Krishna had freed the waters of disrupted – and such an even- Gods, and hence a semi-divine rendered the waters unfit for strength, energy, heredity, mind Kalindi from the venom of tuality was far from the intent power himself who, as an infant, use by men and cattle and burnt and size. Among these, O Lord, Kaliya, thus restoring to the wa- of the Highest Being.” strangles the two serpents sent up the surrounding landscape. we serpents are of a congenitally ters their life-giving property We may recall here the story by a jealous Hera, the mistress Even the birds flying over the vicious temper; how can we, de- once again and giving succour in Genesis in the Bible. When of Zeus, into the infant’s cradle. river got scorched by the poi- luded creatures, free ourselves to men and cattle, that was the serpent in the Garden of Here again, it is worthwhile re- sonous vapour. by our own efforts from the similar to what the supreme Eden betrayed God and calling what Zimmer says: “In Krishna’s kinsmen and power of Thy maya, which it is god, Indra, had done, according tempted Eve to eat the fruit of the West, the hero-saviours de- friends were all cowherds, who so hard to overcome? As only to the Rig Veda. The serpent- the tree of the knowledge of scending from heaven to inau- lived on the banks of Kalindi Thou canst effect that for us, demon Vritra had imprisoned good and evil, which God had gurate a new age on earth are and they were in despair. And being the Omniscient and the rain-bearing clouds in a forbidden Adam and Eve from regarded as embodiments of a so were their cattle. One day, Supreme Lord of the universe, mountain and scorched the eating, God punished the ser- spiritual and moral principle su- Krishna was wandering through vouchsafe us Thy mercy or deal earth below. After a mightry pent along with Adam and Eve. perior to the blind, animal life- the forest alone, when he out punishment, just as Thou battle, Indra slayed Vritra and They were also banished from force of the serpent power. In thought of taking a plunge in wilt”. (Tr. N. Raghunathan). liberated the waters. Paradise. Later, when God, India, on the other hand, the the river. This infuriated the The Lord recognised the force Coming back to Zimmer, he concerned with the growth of serpent and the saviour are two serpent and he attacked in the argument and decided points out that in the tale of evil on earth, decided to release basic manifestations of the one, Krishna. Both were formidable that what was called for was not Kaliya’s defeat, “Krishna played the Great Deluge to destroy all all-containing divine substance. and there ensued a mighty the annihilation of Kaliya but the role rather of moderator his creations but wanted Noah And this substance cannot be at battle. Krishna had his superior his relocation to the ocean so than of annihilator. He liber- to preserve in the Ark seed- variance with either of its strength drawn from his divin- that, even as Kaliya lived his life ated mankind from a threat and stock of all creations for future polarised, mutually antagonistic ity, but the serpent was a wor- according to his lights, the men a peril, favouring life against the procreation on a cleaned-up aspects. Within it, the two are thy foe. Krishna was victorious and beasts on the shores of the slaying breath of the serpent, earth, he did not forget or ig- reconciled and subsumed.” in the end and he hammered river could carry on their lives and yet recognised the rights of nore the snake and specifically Even leaving aside the down the five hoods of Kaliya safe and unafraid. the destructive power; for, the included “every creeping thing higher philosophical interpreta- with his feet and danced upon Heinrich Zimmer (1890- venomous serpent was as much of the earth” to be inducted into tions of the story of Kaliya and them. (That explains the indel- 1943), the German scholar and a manifestation of the Supreme the Ark (Genesis). After the Krishna, the obvious message is ible mark on the cobra’s hood.) Indologist, left, at the time of Being as were the pious cow- Deluge, God also wanted the Kaliya was now totally van- his untimely death, an assorted herds. It was a manifestation of ‘creeping things’, just as his quished, his body broken and he collection of notes on Indian one of the darker aspects of (Continued on page 8) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS August 1-15, 2011 Bharata Natyam – Who gave it the name? (Current Affairs questions are from the period July 1st to 15th. Questions 11 to 20 pertain to o one can say when derstand the art until after she we find, “Singamidaiyotta Chennai and .) N Bharata Natyam was encountered Meenakshi- Tangak Kanakambujam Sree- practised for the first time. sundaram Pillai and his disciples rangam Janaki Nagarattinam 1. South African Olympic swim- There are many myths con- (Sabharanjitam and Naga- paadagam tandai silambolikka mer Charlene Wittstock married nected with the dance. It has ratnam) in 1935, could not vanda Bharatanattiyam neer which high-profile royal on July 2nd? been said that this dance form have thought of naming it as kalikka”. was called sadir. Some say that Bharata Natyam earlier than 2. Name the new Wimbledon Records show that dancers champions. the term came from chaduru, a that year. also used the word Bharata Telugu word, meaning ‘court’ 3. Thanks to hackers, which U.S. Dr. V. Raghavan, during a Natya to describe their dance. broadcaster got into trouble for or sabha. In that case, dances dance seminar organised by the Opposing the proposal of Dr. presented only in courts or falsely tweeting “@Barack- Central Sangeet Natak Muthulakshmi Reddy, a letter The Kalyani daughters who Obama has just passed. The sabha-s should have been called Akademi in Delhi, stated that from Rudraganika Sangam, Ma- sadir, but this type of dance was brought Bharata Natyam to the President is dead”? he first started using the name dras, signed by Bangalore Madras stage. 4. Which South American coun- prevalent in temples even be- Bharata Natyam and it soon be- Nagaratnam, Salem Taya- try celebrated the bi-centenary of fore it entered the royal courts. came popular. Arudra wrote ramma, T.M. Krishnaveni and seyyulum kottiduveere – its independence from Spain on In fact, sadir has another mean- that Raghavan actually used others, was sent on 5.11.1927 to Bharatanattiyak kuttiduveere.” July 5th? ing: ‘beauty’. Saint Aruna- the word Bharata Natya for the the members of the Legislative Poet Karai Muhammad Yusuf 5. Name the 168-year-old British girinathar says, “Sadiraayirunda first time in his 1933 article Council. It mentions, “You will (1911) goes on to say: tabloid that shut down on July Rati Maami” and saint Nam- titled Bharatanatya Classical admit that many of us are devo- “Paangaana Bharatanattiyam 10th, after serious allegations of mazhvar says, “Sadir ila mada- tees to the arts of music and ivarkku paramparaiyaal vanda phone-hacking, and its owner vaar” (meaning ‘beautiful Bharatanatya. A few of us are sottu – ennai paaraamaley neerum G forced to appear before a parlia- young damsels’). The art of by able to perform Kalakshepam to nerunginaal podum – pocchu- mentary commission. dancing that was very beautiful B.M. Sundaram the public.” In 1910, a devadasi daioo umadu sottu,” in his 6. On July 14th, which planet was called sadir. The devadasis- attached to the Ponnam- Dasigalin Mosak Kummi. completed its first orbit of the Sun s, the custodians of this dance balavanesar Temple, Colombo, The Dutchman, Jacob since its discovery in 1846? form, barring a few, did not call Dance – The South Indian wrote a book, Uruttira Gani- Haafner (1754/1809), who 7. Name the noted film-maker of their art sadir. The famous Nautch (in the background of the kaiyar Kathasarat Tirattu in lived for more than thirteen the critically acclaimed off-beat dancer Pudukottai Ammalu controversy over the art) (Sound which, while giving her own years in India and Sri Lanka and films like Nazar and Uski Roti who Ammal signed her last will and passed away recently. and Shadow – Madras, Vol. II, bio-sketch, the author, K. spoke Tamil, wrote in his auto- testament as ‘Bharatanattiyam Issue 6, 1933). A leading dancer Anjukam says, “... Easwara biography (1807) that he fell in 8. What adventurous feat did Pudukkottai Ammalu’. Welsh rugby player Richard wrote in (7.12.1997) Varudam Tai 28 Vellikkizha- love with a “Bharatanatya David Parks achieve on July The name ‘Bharatam’ is said that “it was in the mid-thirties maiyanru, pottukkatti, Maya- dancer” in 1786. A Jesuit mis- 12th? to have come down the ages that E. Krishna Iyer first coined varam Kandasami Nattuvana- sionary, who first used the term 9. Which is the latest sovereign from sage Bharata. The term the term Bharatanatyam for the ridam Bharatanattiyappayirchi ‘devadasi’ in European litera- nation which became indepen- bharata also means ‘a dancer’. Sadir dance”. nadandadu...” Another devadasi ture, says (1713) that he dent on July 9th? This was very much in use in lit- There are numerous refer- attached to the Ulsoor Some- baptised “a devadasi, who was 10. Name the three areas in erature as well as in the conver- ences to Bharata Natyam by swara temple, Venkatasundara a professional in Bharata- Mumbai that were the scene of sations of devadasi-s. To quote earlier writers. Sani, in her work in Sanskrit natyam”. some composers and scholars, (1908) wrote,“Someswarasya terrorist attacks on July 13th, kill- Palkuriki Somanatha in his It is clear that the term ing more than 20 people. Arunagirinathar refers to agresthitam Bharatanatyam Panditaaraadhya Charitamu Bharatanatyam was very much Bharatacchilambu and Vidha- karayet.” * * * mentions, “Bharatnatyamunu in use, at least from the 12th What film studio did Spring migu bharatasura vanitaiyar. 11. chakkaga nadipinchi”. Puran- Mahakavi Subramania Century. So all other claims are Gardens in metamor- Kumaraguruparar’s Sakala- daradasa (15th Century), in his Bharati wrote, “Paatum false. (Courtesy: Sruti) phose into? kalavalli Malai speaks of Pannum devaranama, Aadidano Ranga, 12. Who was defeated in the Bharatamum. Seera Puranam of clearly says: “Rambhe Oorvasi Battle of Chengam in 1767 after Umaru Pulavar says about ramaniyarellaru chandadim he attacked Madras? Bharatam aadidamum Geetap- Bharatanatyagala nadisi.” 13. If Srivilliputhur enshrines pannoli arangum. Inscriptions Vipranarayana Charitamu, a ‘Kattazhagar’, which place en- tell us that Kopperunchingan Yakshagana (1669) of King shrines ‘Koodalazhagar’? held the tile ‘Bharatam Valla Vijayaraghava Nayaka of 14. What was the last-released Perumaan’ and one among Thanjavur, says, “Devadevee film starring Sivaji Ganesan to many titles of Hoysala devaraku Bharatanatya celebrate a silver jubilee? Vishnuvardhana was ‘Sakala Till August 6: Metamorphosis, re- Kshetrakala group. Folk instru- sangeetaadi vidyanna 15. Which area in Chennai is Bharata Vidya Hridaya’. We cent works by S. Mark Rathi- ments performance by Janar- vinupinchu”. In the Tamil work popularly called ‘mini Brazil’ be- can go on citing hundreds of naraj (at Focus Art Gallery). dhanan from Trissur. (at Sokkanathasami Vannam (1685) cause many leading footballers such usages. Till August 7: Adiperukku and DakshinChitra). hail from there? we find this description: Ayyanar Festival. Kaliattam by DakshinaChitra Workshops 16. Name the apprentice to Next we come to the impor- “Maruvum rasata sabhaiyul Muthukumar and troupe from Children’s workshops Ibrahim Peer Mohammed & Co., tant issue of who coined the Bharata natanam idubavar Sivasakthi Kalai Kuzhu from dealers in fine glassware and term Bharata Natyam. Sokkar.” Mannip-padikkarani Thurayar will perform every day. August 6 & 7: Storytelling and china, who took over the business The late Dr. Arudra, writing Kuravanji (1775) is another (at DakshinaChitra). writing and gave it his name? in Sruti (Dec.1986/Jan.1987), work that speaks about Bharata Till August 9: An exhibition of August 14: Cartooning 17. The Sacred Heart Matricula- quoted Rukmini Devi Natya: “Ati roopa mohana paintings and sculptures cel- Adult Workshops tion Higher Secondary School is (Kalakshetra Journal, Vol. XVII vanitaiyar abhinaya Bharata- ebrating 75 years of Prof. Dhiraj August 19-21: Kerala Mural run by the Presentation Convent – 1977): “So far as I know, I was nattiyam puriya.” P. Ragha- Choudhury (at Artworld – Painting (PBVM). What does PBVM the first person, when I began vaiah Charry’s monograph, A Sarala’s Art Centre). stand for? August 27: Traditional desserts of to dance in the early 1930s, to Short Account of the Dancing girls Till August 16: Deccan Musings, an Kerala 18. Which Tamil Nadu player exhibition of paintings and give the (new) name to the treating concisely on the general August 28: Palm leaf Ganesha won the ‘Man of the Match’ dance and since then the word principles of Dancing and Singing sculptures by Hyderabad-based award in the first-ever T20 inter- artists (at Forum Art Gallery). Till August 18: Expressions, an ex- Bharata Natyam has been ac- with the translations of the Hindo hibition of line drawings, paint- national played by India? August 13, 14 & 15: Residential ceptable in common use.” He, songs (dated 3.12.1806) states: ings and sculpture, by Rama- 19. Who was the Governor of Workshop on ‘Vernacular Ar- however, questioned this state- “It is stated that Bharata nateya suresh, Mohanasundaram M, Madras when India won Indepen- chitecture’ (preferably 1st to 3rd ment. Rukmini Devi had her or dance of the devadasi should Sivabalan S, Koteeswaran S.P, dence? year B. Arch students). Archi- first real introduction to this art be composed of 5 Angas or Manoharan N.S. and T.J. tect Benny Kuriakose will be the 20. If Vishnu Kanchi was the area Thyagarajan (at Dakshina- only on January 1, 1935. She parts.” When the wedding of course director. Details from also known as ‘Little Conjee- Chitra). varam’ and Siva Kanchi was ‘Big recorded this fact (28th Confer- Raja Bhaskara Setupati of [email protected] or 99410 Conjeevaram’, what was known ence Souvenir of the Music Ramanathapuram took place 11785 (at DakshinaChitra). August 20-September 15: Exhibi- as ‘Jina Kanchi’? Academy). A person who, by on 13.5.1888, Ramalinga Kavi August 20-28: Onam Festival. tion of paintings of Thejo Menon composed a Kumni and in that (at DakshinaChitra). (Answers on page 8) her own admission, did not un- Chendamela and Singarimela by August 1-15, 2011 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

hennai Heritage as usual August 2nd: Indu Bala- Coffers several walks and chandran on Confessions of a talks during Madras Week this Chennai Advertising Woman. year. The Walks include: August 9th: S. Muthiah on th Madras Week Saturday, August 20 The American Contribution to (6.45 a.m.) – The Wallajah British Madras. Trail, a tour by van and foot for Scores of events August 16th: Pradeep two hours in and sur- Chakravarthy on Information rounding areas, to look at ves- Technology in Chennai tiges of the glory of the Nawabs August 23rd: V. Sriram on of Arcot. To be conducted by already planned Chennai, Crazy Chennai. S. Anwar, well-known photo- August 30th: Anand grapher and documentary film- each Walk. For more informa- chennaidailyfoto.wordpress. School, on August Krishna, Public Affairs Officer, maker who has been studying tion and registration for both com from Railway 27th afternoon. (Schools must American Consulate, on An the contributions of the the Walks, call Sushi Natraj station to Srinivasa Ramanujan register at 98405 44629), and a Indian-American’s impressions of Nawabs of Arcot. The tour will 98840 72433 or email Museum, Royapuram, and on Madras Open Quiz on August Chennai. conclude with breakfast. [email protected] August 14th (7 a.m. to 8 a.m.) 28th (prelims at 2 pm). Open Chandrachoodan Gopala- Sunday, August 21st * * * from Iyyappan temple (Raja to teams of two, at P. S. School’s krishnan will present Ancient (6.30 a.m.) – The Studios of Annamalaipuram) to Green- Dakshinamurthy Hall. Two other Walks are being Light: Madras through the eyes of Kollywood, a tour by van and way’s Road MRTS station. An Online City Guide is be- a Photowalker at Jaigopal foot for two hours in Kodam- led by Pradeep Chakravarthy st Limited to first 25 registra- ing launched by Mylapore Times Garodia School, , bakkam and , look- on August 21 and August th tions on each day. Contact with 51 Things To Do In at 4 pm on August 23rd. ing at some of the great studios 27 from 3 p.m. to 3.45 p.m. in 98405 44629 – Revathi. Select Chennai, a community-driven The Public Relations Soci- of South Indian filmdom. To be the Bronze Gallery, Govern- ment Museum, . photos will be printed and listing. This web link invites ety of India, Chennai Chapter, conducted by Mohan V. displayed as an exhibition at people to offer ideas/tips on He insists that anyone who organises Madras: Its past and its Raman, veteran film and TV various venues during Madras places a visitor must see in the is older than 35 will HAVE TO present, a presentation by actor and a researcher into the Week. city. These are places/experi- register along with a younger S. Muthiah and D. Krishnan history of Tamil films. The tour ences / things that are unique to person who is either in school at Stella Maris College at will conclude with breakfast. the city. Go to – (Class 5 or above) or in college. 6.00 p.m. Saturday, August 27th ● The Murugappa Group, www.51thingstodoin Namma pre- (6.00 a.m.) – The Magnates of For registrations and other which sponsored the chennai.blogspot.com and start sents three speakers at Hotel Mount Road, a tour by van and details contact pradeepan mega ‘Madras 350’ Quiz posting! Green Park, Vadapalani, on foot for two-and-a-half hours [email protected]. in 1989 to celebrate August 25th: 5.30 pm: on how Mount Road developed Madras’s 350th birthday, * * * * * * Shreekumar Varma on New as a business centre. To be is this year sponsoring a This year’s Chennai Namma Mylapore is mega Schools Quiz on Madras Musings; 6.15 pm: conducted by Sriram V, Asso- Heritage talks will be : organising two guided tours – Madras. Chandrachoodan Gopala- ciate Editor, Madras Musings. Sunday, August 21st: Justice To DakshinaChitra on August krishnan on Ancient Light: The tour will conclude with ‘Madras 372’, open to all Prabha Sridevan on The Life of 24th led by Dr. Chithra schools and organised Madras through the eyes of a breakfast. V. Krishnaswami Aiyar, a death Madhavan (10.30 a.m. to 12.30 by popular Quiz Master Photowalker, and 7 pm: Pradeep th centenary tribute, at Chamiers. Sunday, August 28 p.m.) and to the Bronze Naveen Jayakumar and nd Chakravarthy on Kodam- (6.00 a.m.) – Meandering Gallery, Madras Museum on the Quiz Foundation of Monday, August 22 : bakkam is the centre of Madras, a down Mint Street, one of the August 28th (10 a.m. to 12 India, will be the Mohan V. Raman on Three look at how Madras was orga- longest streets in the whole Murugappa group’s offer- Women Film Directors of Madras noon), also led by Dr. Chithra ing for Madras Week this nised geographically in the 9th- world according to some. This Madhavan. at Taj Club House. 12th centuries. is one of the oldest thorough- year. It will be held at the rd (For reservations and de- Tuesday, August 23 : R. fares of Madras and a melting Lady Andal School’s * * * tails: call 99414 50776 or mail Venkata Subba Rao Audi- Mohan on Horse racing in Ma- pot of several communities. The Nizhal offers you a chance to [email protected]). torium on Sunday, Au- dras at The Residency Towers. two-hour tour by foot will be gust 28th from 2.00 pm to Wednesday, August 24th: exhibit photos of different conducted by Sriram V, Asso- * * * 6.00 pm. Y.G. Mahendra and A.R. Trees of Chennai. The photos ciate Editor, Madras Musings, , Editor will be exhibited on August Vincent D’Souza , Watch out for details in Srinivasan on Tamizh Theatre th th and will conclude with break- Mylapore Times, will lead Walks the Press and on the Net. in Madras at Hotel Savera. 27 and 28 at Kadamba fast. Galleria, Royapettah (opp Pilot on August 21st (in Fort St. ● Thursday, August 25th: Chennai Heritage is Theatre) and certificates are as- NOTE: All four tours re- George) and on August 28th teaming with the Freema- Geeta Doctor in conversation sured! quire booking and payment in (on Mount Road). The August sons of Madras to with two artists from A Village advance. Please make your 21st walk starts at 8 am, lasts present a programme of Called Cholamandal at the Park Each photo must be 8”x11” bookings through phone 90 minutes. Assemble in park- ‘live’ heritage events at Sheraton. and mounted. Last date for sub- the Freemasons’ Hall in mission: August 25th. For fur- (28411495 – contact Ms ing lot opposite main gate of Friday, August 26th: P.C. Egmore from August ther details and registration call Dhanalakshmi) or email Fort at 7.45 am. Carry ID cards, Ramakrishna on The English 29th to September 4th. 90030-11372/ 98402-21241 ([email protected]). water, light snacks. Ends at Fort Theatre in Madras at The There will be a different between” 10 am-5 pm or write Charges for walks 1, 2 & 3 are Museum (those who wish to ‘performance’ every to [email protected]. Rs. 450 per head. Charges for visit the Museum may do so on evening. Time 6.30 p.m. (open to all). Walk 4 – Rs. 300 per head. their own - it opens at 10 am). to 8.30pm. Watch out for Saturday, August 27th: * * * * * * This Walk is free. Register at details. Harry MacLure & Richard O’ Asan Memorial School, Chennai Heritage is also [email protected]. Connor on The Anglo-Indians of Egmore, is celebrating Madras organising two other Walks, The August 28th walk starts at Madras at the GRT Grand. Week with an exhibition from The Yellow Bus, play home th th 8 am at The Hindu’s gate, ends th August 17 to 19 on Our one along the Marina and the and activity centre, Besant Sunday, August 28 : at Murray & Co. (Auction Heritage in Brick and Mortar, other in Park Town. Both Nagar, is organising on August K.R.N. Menon & P. Unni- starts at 10.30 am here). Walk featuring models and charts Walks will be available on 14th a Bicycle Rally (6.30 a.m. krishnan in conversation with th st th th is free. prepared by the Social Science August 20 , 21 , 27 & 28 , to 8.30 a.m). Participants will Sushila Ravindranath on A Department and the Heritage starting at 6.30 a.m. The * * * follow a trail of famous land- Boxwallah’s Madras at Marina Walks are by van and Amethyst. Club. The inaugural function at Nizhal, the ‘Tree NGO’, marks with the help of a clue th foot for an hour and a half, 10 a.m. on August 17 will commemorates Madras Week sheet. Open to men in the age Usual schedule – 6.30- beginning at the Lighthouse have as guest speakers the with two Tree Walks on Au- group 20 and above with bi- 7.00 p.m. – High Tea, 7.00- and ending at the War Memo- th Nawab of Arcot, Dr. Meena gust 21st and August 28th. cycles. 8.00 p.m. talks. On 27 , tea is rial and back. They will be led Muthiah and Gopika Verma. The Tree Walk on August 21st Lollypop, an activity centre from 7.00 to 7.30 p.m. and talk by Nandini Arun, Shama Pra- The valedictory at 2 p.m. on (4:30 to 5.30 p.m.) will be at for children in , is is from 7.30 to 8.30 p.m. th sanna and Sundari Sidhartha. August 19 will have Semmozhi Poonga and on Au- organising a heritage walk to The Rotary Club of Madras The Park Town Walks, mostly Shreekumar Varma as chief gust 28th (4:30 to 5:30 p.m.) at the C.P. Ramaswami Aiyer South will hold five meetings in by van for about 2 hours, will guest. Asan will also have an Independence Day Park, near Foundation at 9 am on August August to celebrate ‘Madras begin at the SDAT Complex inter-school heritage quiz on . For registra- 27th. For details, contact: Month’. They are only for opposite Egmore Station and August 18th, Preliminary tion: [email protected]. 8754405577. Rotarians and their guests. The proceed to , My rounds at 9.30 am; finals at August 23rd meeting is at TAG Ladye’s Garden and back, and YOCee is organising a * * * 11 a.m. Centre, the other meetings are will be led by Lakshmi Kishore, Photowalk for children on Mylapore Times is organising at Hotel Savera. Meetings will The Gallery Sri Parvati, Kavita Srinath and Sundari August 13th (7am to 8am) led a Madras Quiz in Tamil for city start at 6.00 p.m. Sidhartha. Rs.200 per head for by N. Ramaswamy of http:// Tamil medium schools at P. S. (Continued on page 8) 8 MADRAS MUSINGS August 1-15, 2011 Madras Week events THE SUBJUGATION (Continued from page 7) and palm leaves, in Madras – The first of the City’s Clubs experience your cultural heritage to plan a Madras Week OF KALIYA Eldam’s Road, Alwarpet, hosts from 3.30 – 5 p.m. Supported by programme is the Madras Boat an exhibition of paintings by resource persons from Dak- Club which has V.V. Ramana, (Continued from page 5) habitat conversion, fence in oc- Maniam Selven (MaSe) on shinaChitra; Open to children that well-known quizmaster, cupied lands, restore elephant Madras: My Impressions from 10 five years and above; contact conducting an inter-club quiz at corridors in the forest areas and, th the need for men and animals a.m. to 5 p.m., August 18 to 9940450495/9940286740. MBC on August 26th. finally, translocate wild animals st nd to peacefully co-exist on earth. on the periphery of human-oc- 31 . On August 22 at Also, Madras: Then and now, a Mylapore Times is organising We, humans, are interlopers on cupied lands to safe areas. In 6.30 pm, Chandrachoodan poster presentation by students. a contest for students of city this planet, in a manner of fact, in extreme situations, as in Gopalakrishnan will present schools in which teams of three * * * speaking; the innumerable the case of conservation of pre- Ancient Light: Madras through will choose a heritage spot/ The World Storytelling plant and animal species have cious tiger populations in ‘pro- the eyes of a Photowalker and on trend/milestone, research, rd Institute is facilitating been here millions of years be- tected areas’ such as sanctuar- August 23 at 6.30 pm Chitra record and jot down all that Storytelling by the Sea, an fore we arrived. We made the ies and national parks, we do Madhavan will speak on Lesser helps to create a great Power known temples of Chennai – some evening of Rajah-Rani stories, earth safe for our habitation and even consider translocation of especially about the sea, told by Point production. The teams productive to suit our needs by more. rd the human population in and members of Chennai’s sea-fish- will then meet on August 23 destroying these creations using DakshinaChitra will feature adjacent to such ares so as to ing communities, and others on at Srinivasa Sastri Hall, Luz, our superior brain-power and an exhibition of Photographs of enable the tigers to live in peace August 25th (6.30 p.m. to 8 Mylapore, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. the weaponry we designed. But Chennai City by Abhishek and multiply. The effort is to p.m.) at Nocchikuppam 2nd Prize distribution at 3 p.m. this is not a process that can be Dadheech from August 21st to ensure that, on the one hand, Street. (approx.). Last year, 21 schools carried on for ever. At some 28th. It will also organise a draw- damages to the eco-system are took part and the top three took stage, Nature will strike back as, ing competition for children in * * * kept down to the minimum or home trophies, gifts and certifi- indeed, it has in many in- the 7-13 age group on the YOCee is organising on avoided altogether and, on the cates. Entry has to be made at stances. theme Monuments of Chennai August 15th an Oratorical other, effective ways explored the school level. Information at No doubt, as a species, we and a photography competition contest (Prelims) for students to enable men and animals to www.themadrasday.in or have a responsibility to our- for children in the 11-15 age of classes 9 to 12 in English and co-exist peacefully. This, in- 98405 44629. selves to see that we survive and group with the theme Bazaars of Tamil. Topic: Speeches by deed, is also the message of the Mylapore Times also invites survive in some comfort. This Chennai. famous personalities in Chennai, story of Krishna’s translocation participants for a project to makes it necessary to inflict of Kaliya from the river Kalindi Padma Seshadri School, Costumes Galore - Traditional produce documentary films in some degree of violence on na- to the recesses of the ocean. KK Nagar, will host Through bridal costumes of different English/Tamil on Madras that is ture and on other life-forms. (Courtesy: Cobra, journal of the , an exhibition communities of Chennai, on the artist’s eye Chennai. About its people and Conversion of vast extents of Trust) organised by D.H. Rao, of coins, Art Contest - Collage on theme Chennai - Netru, Indru, Naalai places, its landmarks and its wilderness to agricultural lands paintings, pen-and-ink draw- institutions, its life-trends and and urban habitations and dam- ings by Manohar Devadoss, and for children of age group 8-12 Answers to Quiz: and a Pulli Kolam contest; open its communities. The best will ming of the rivers have been memorabilia relating to Madras. be screened at a festival in necessary for human survival. 1. Albert II, Prince of Monaco; Speakers at the inauguration to all in age group 15-25 years. August 21st, will be the finals September. (Details at But these have denied their 2. Petra Kvitova (women) and (2 p.m. on August 22nd) will www.themadrasday.in). original inhabitants space to ex- Novak Djokovic (men); 3. Fox be S. Muthiah, Nalli Kuppu- of the Oratorical contest, and there will be Villupattu - A Prof M. S. Swaminathan will ist. This has inevitably led to News; 4. Venezuela; 5. News of the swamy and Mrs. Y.G. Partha- inaugurate Madras Week at man-animal conflicts in many World; 6. Neptune; 7. Mani Kaul; sarathy. (Open from 9.30 a.m. musical travelogue on Chennai, 8. He became the first human to and - Lecture demon- C.P. Ramaswami Aiyar Foun- places. to 3 p.m. on August 23rd and Kootu reach the highest summits on each stration on dation on August 20th at an We, in India, often hear of 24th). Also, a competition for Influence of folk of the continents and also to trek elements in today’s art and culture exhibition of paintings by A. stories of elephants and leop- to both poles in the same calendar children, ‘Why I like it’, based Ananda Kumar and photo- ards from the forest areas in- on essays, paintings and photo- in the capital of Tamil Nadu. year; 9. South Sudan; 10. Zaveri Kalaa Manjari, 6/12, First graphs by the late M. K. truding into human-occupied Bazaar, Dadar and Opera House. graphs of Madras. Rangaswamy Aiyangar of Ma- nearby lands thus causing much Street, Venus Colony. Alwar- * * * Hotel Green Park, Vadapa- dras and its environs. On Au- damage to crops and property pet, is organising on August 11. S.S. Vasan’s Gemini Stu- lani, hosts several programmes st gust 24th, the Foundation will and posing a threat to human on August 27th from 3.30 p.m.: 21 an art contest for children dios; 12. Hyder Ali; 13. Madurai; from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Themes: release at 11 am the C. P. R. life itself. A few decades of Spring and Zoom, KK Nagar, Environmental Education sensitisation has taught us that 14. Padaiyappa; 15. ; 16. Age: 5-10 years – Clean Green Poppat Jamal (of Poppat Jamal & an activity centre for children, Centre’s Survey of Air, Water the solution to this problem is welcomes children to experi- Chennai, Ages: 11-16 years Sons fame); 17. Presentation Of and Noise Levels in Chennai not to blindly kill the animals. The Blessed Virgin Mary; 18. ment and create exquisite prod- Places of Interest in Chennai. Contact: 24312676. city. We, therefore, explore the pos- Dinesh Karthik; 19. Sir Archibald ucts using the potter’s wheel sibilities of avoiding excessive Edward Nye; 20. Pillai Palayam.

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PublishedPublished by S. Muthiahby S. Muthiah for ‘Chennai for Heritage’,‘Chennai No.Heritage’, 5, Bhattad 260-A, Tower, TTK 30, WestcottRoad, Chennai Road, Royapettah, 600 018 andChennai printed 600 by014, T printedJ George by T atJ George Lokavani-Hallmark at Lokavani Southern Press Pvt.Printers Ltd., Pvt. 122, Ltd., Greams 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600 006. 006, Edited and edited by S.by MUTHIAH.S. Muthiah.