: & Glory

The Remarkable Story of Golf’s True Scottish Home

1547 1676

The Battle of Pinkie took place near The Royal Company of Archers, comprised Musselburgh on the southern coastline of of Scottish noblemen, was formed this the Forth of Firth. By reputation the 344 year. They practiced their archery skills on yard 2nd hole at Musselburgh Old Links is the Links of and had received three named “The Graves” after the ground silver arrows from Musselburgh and where many dead soldiers were buried. as prizes: “to be shott for in the Lynks...” Saturday was their ‘Playday.’ 1567 Like the Golf Clubs and Mary Queen of Scots reputedly played golf societies that at Seton House near Musselburgh within followed over days after the murder of her husband, Lord the next Darnley on 9 February. James Hepburn, 4th century, they Earl of Bothwell, was generally believed to would arrive have for lunch, play orchestra their matches, ted then over dinner in a local tavern, would Darnley's settle their bets and arrange matches and death, but wagers for the following week, before he was departing for home. When archery was acquitted banned at Leith in 1734 the Archers moved of the back to Edinburgh where they conducted charge in their practice sessions, first on April and Links and then on the East Meadows in the Edinburgh. following month he married Mary. 1728

Duncan Forbes of Culloden, President of the Court of Session, was such an ardent 1672 lover of golf that when were covered with snow, he played on the Sands. Sir John Foulis of Ravelston, an Edinburgh He also played golf with his son on the Links lawyer, kept detailed records of his various of Musselburgh on 1 November noting that: golf matches and their cost. In one match at “After a very hard pull, I got the better of Musselburgh he noted that he had: “Lost at my son at the Gouf. If he was as good at Golfe with Chancellour Lyon, Master of any other thing as he is at that, there might Saltoune etc. £5. 16. 0.” and “golf balles be some hopes of him.” £0.12. 0.

1744

The Musselburgh Cup was first played for at 1788 the eight-hole . Believed to be the oldest ‘cup’ competition in golf, The Honourable Company of Edinburgh the other four from that period take the Golfers at Musselburgh orders members to form of a silver club. wear club uniform when playing on the links. They also found it necessary to limit wagers to six pennies a hole.

1774 In the minutes of the Musselburgh dated 12 December, it was noted how The Musselburgh Golfing Society is formed every year a gift of golf balls was made for in in . the scholars of the local school (Lorretto) and a confirmation of the Club’s responsibility for the Links writing how: “Baillie John Cochran was chosen Keeper 1782 and Surveyor of the Links”. The Honourable Company of Golfers at

Musselburgh passed a resolution that port and punch should be the standard Club 1809 drink except on the days when competitions were played. On those special Legendary Musselburgh clubmaker Douglas occasions, claret or any other agreeable McEwan was born and it was during his life- liquor would be permitted. Moreover, a time that vast improvements were made in regulation was passed that in the event the their manufacture with beech heads Captain was absent from a meeting, he was superseding the old thorn tree-cuts. to be fined two pints of claret to be drunk by those members present. It was also discovered that the small attendances at Club meetings was due to members inviting other members to dine with them at their homes. In an effort to put a swift end to this practice, a fine of a magnum of claret for the host and one bottle for “each member so detained” was imposed.

1786 1810 A representative of the McEwan club In a minute dated 14 December from the making family from Musselburgh would Musselburgh Golf Club it says: “The Club come over to a week or two resolve to present by subscription a new before the spring and autumn meetings, Creel and Shawl to the best female golfer bringing an assortment of clubs for sale. who plays on the annual occasion on 1st began their Jan. next, old style (12 Jan. new), to be careers by intimated to the Fish Ladies by the Officer working with the of the Club.” Gourlay family as apprentice feathery ball- makers at 1811 Bruntsfield. Considered great Musselburgh Golf Links in East Lothian, golfers they took Scotland, is famous for hosting the first part in many challenge matches between ever women’s golf competition on 1 1840 to 1860 most notably against the Park January. Held this New Year’s Day, a putting brothers of Musselburgh - Willie and Mungo match took place between the fishwives of - was later appointed ‘Keeper of Musselburgh and nearby Fisherrow. the Green’ at Blackheath Links near London (Important figures in the local economy, and stayed there until 1864. After which he they were the women who negotiated the returned to Leith Links before finally price of their husbands daily catch with settling in . Willie Snr had two local merchants). First prize was a 'creel' (a sons - Tom and Willie Jnr. He later died in large wicker fishing basket), and a 'skull' (a Inveresk in 1878 at the age of 59 years. Tom large circular frame basket that sat on top Dunn Snr. married Isabella Gourlay and of the creel). Curiously the consolation worked at Royal Wimbledon Golf Club living prize was 'two fine silk handkerchiefs from in Windmill Cottage (which still exists) Barcelona' which many of the competitors where children John Duncan Dunn (1872), may have preferred. No record exists who William Gourlay Dunn (1874) and Isabella actually won but the match became a May Gourlay Dunn (1880) were born. regular affair along with a game of football each Shrove Tuesday for which the winners also received a prize. 1826

William was appointed recorder for 1816 the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers for three years. During the move A track was built around the from Leith to Musselburgh in 1836 he Musselburgh golf links just outside the East became the first captain to be elected by Lothian town. Racing had to be moved the membership rather than simply winning from Leith Sands near Edinburgh because the silver club. of rowdy spectators.

1827 1821

The Dunn brothers, Jamie and Willie Snr. were born in Musselburgh. One of the most famous of early golfing dynasties the twins Course maintenance at Leith Links proved Golf Club. As a consequence, the increasingly difficult given the military circumference of a putting green was activities of the Mid Lothian Volunteers and officially enlarged to twenty yards from the other cavalry exercising on the Links, the hole, (the nearest point a golfer may play increased traffic between Edinburgh and his next -shot from.) Previously it was Leith, the waning interest in golf itself, and just one clubs’ length from the hole but in the encroachment of cattle and sheep 1776 it had been enlarged to fifteen yards. whose owners refused to pay the Honourable Company rent that was legally due. In addition, the City fathers sold feus (leases) to 1832 other parts of Originally a 7-hole layout, the ancient links the links in at Musselburgh added a new eighth hole order to raise followed by a ninth in 1870. Named the Sea revenue. Many Hole it now plays as the fifth on the members had present-day course. already taken their games and matches to Musselburgh, 1833 so collection of subscriptions became difficult and finances were low. The Thistle Golf Club, which shared many members with the HCEG, was invited to rent part of the golf house, but this was rejected, and with the golf club house already mortgaged and the interest payments in arrears, a decision was made to sell the furniture and effects.

The first-known hole-cutter for greens is With the clubhouse at Leith Links already introduced at Musselburgh Links. Thought mortgaged and interest payments in to have been invented by Charles Anderson arrears, a decision was made by the of Fettykill in , it cut a hole 6-8 inches Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers deep and to a rough diameter of 4.25 to sell the furniture and effects. Advertised inches. Purchased from Robert Gay for £1-0- in the Edinburgh Evening Courant of the 29 0, it was used at Musselburgh for over a August the figure achieved did not clear the century including a number of Open outstanding mortgage. With debt collectors Championships. In 1893, the Royal and demanding repayment of the remaining Ancient Golf Club at St. Andrews decided loans, the actual clubhouse was sold that all golf holes should be the same size realizing £1,130. Despite the falling income, as those used at Musselburgh and the and with many members now playing their decision has remained unchanged to this matches at Musselburgh, Edinburgh City day. Today, the original hole-cutter resides Council extended their lease on the golf in the collection of the Royal Musselburgh course at Leith for a further year up to 1834. With the clubhouse at Leith Links already 1836 mortgaged and interest payments in arrears, a decision was made by the The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers Golfers held a meeting at Barry’s Hotel in to sell the furniture and effects. Advertised Queen Street, Edinburgh on 26 July where in the Edinburgh Evening Courant of the 29 they made the decision that for the next August the figure achieved did not clear the three months the Club Dinners would be outstanding mortgage. With debt collectors held at Mrs. McKendricks Inn, which later demanding repayment of the remaining became the Musselburgh Arms Hotel. loans, the actual clubhouse was sold Meeting on the first Saturday of each of the realizing £1,130. Despite the falling income ensuing three months, the links at and with many members now playing their Musselburgh became their new home and matches at Musselburgh, Edinburgh City not at the increasingly down-at-heel Leith Council extended the HCEG feu (lease) on Links. Situated inside the racecourse the at Leith for a further year up approximately 15 miles to the east of to 1834. Edinburgh it ushered in an unbroken stay of some 55 years in Musselburgh. From now on the members will store their clubs in rooms under the Racecourse grandstand 1834 because they have no official clubhouse. In 1891 they purchased The Howes, another In a guideline published by users of old horse-racing track on the Archerfield Musselburgh Links it stated that: “no Cady Estate at Dirleton leading critics to claim shall be employed who does not carry a bag that The Honourable Company had simply with moist sand or clay for the ...” move 'from one race-course to another.'

Thomas Alexander, the grandstand attendant at , was 1835 appointed to take charge of the Club boxes The Gourlay family established a business in – or wooden lockers which held members Musselburgh producing golf balls for sale. clubs - by the Honourable Company of There until 1855, he was one of three Edinburgh Golfers. He was also employed members of the Gourlay family who to prepare the greens and cut fresh holes specialised before each competition. He was in making superseded in 1843 by John Gourlay, tenant feathery and of the grandstand. Catering was provided gutta percha by Mrs. Formans public house, which is still balls. A in place behind the original third green. feathery ball made by John 1837 Gourlay in 1850 fetched £2,640 at a Golfiana auction in Mr. John Wood of the Honourable July 2000. Company of Edinburgh Golfers was “fined two tappit hens for appearing on the Links

(of Musselburgh) without his red coat,” balls, and a rough grassy green was too during the silver club tournament on 3 much for him; but on St. Andrews with its June. unapproachable turf, he was unrivalled.”

1839

Bruntsfield Links Golfing Society began playing competitions at Musselburgh Links but retained their old clubhouse at in Edinburgh.

The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers ordered £10 be paid to feathery ball maker John Gourlay at a meeting at

Musselburgh on 5 November, after he built a brick workshop at his own expense at the 1843 “West End of the Race stand” to serve golfers who used the nine-hole course from St. Andrews took on inside the horse racing track. his great rival Willie Dunn Snr. of Musselburgh in a 20-round challenge over

both links. Played over a marathon two rounds per day for ten days, the match 1840 went down to the final day with Robertson John Reid winning two rounds up with one to play. In who is a return match, later in the year over credited as Musselburgh, North Berwick and St. being the Andrews, Allan won by just six holes in the 'Father of final round. American Allan Robertson partnered his assistant Golf' was Tom Morris against Willie and Jamie Dunn born in in what was thought to be the richest Dunfermline match of the 19th century with £400 at and learned to play over Musselburgh Links. stake over three rounds at Musselburgh, St. Allan Robertson of St. Andrews beat Andrews and North Berwick; Four down Musselburgh ball maker Tom Alexander by with eight to play Morris and Robertson four holes up) after two rounds over the won by just one hole. Old Course at St. Andrews. Considered A match was played between professional unbeatable over his home links his last Willie Dunn Snr. and an Edinburgh round was completed in a creditable 95 named Toper. Played over Bruntsfield and strokes. “Allan as the least powerful, but Musselburgh it was the first time that the most scientific,” commented one spectators were held behind ropes held by onlooker. “He could not play well on a appointed course marshals. rough green for he used light clubs and ball was far superior to the leather covered feather ball which had a tendency to fall 1844 apart in wet conditions! After the match, he ordered more of these ‘rubber’ balls, which Feather ball maker William Gourlay died this he then tried out at Musselburgh. Gourlay, year with his brother John, now the sole the famous feathery ball-maker followed ball-maker in the family. Based at the old him around at a respectful distance and was Musselburgh Racecourse grandstand, he astonished to see how well they flew. supplemented his living by renting lockers Alarmed for his ancient profession, he to the golfers to keep their clubs in, when forwarded six dozen balls to Sir David Baird they came down from Edinburgh. After his in St. Andrews that very evening! Sir David death in 1869, his famously continued using his remaining widow Eliza supply of “leather balls and did not Gourlay was acknowledge the superiority of the others appointed club- until his large supply was finished...” mistress and continued his Robert “Bob” Ferguson is born in business for the Musselburgh, Scotland. He would become next decade or one of the top players during the late more. 1800's winning three consecutive British Open championships in 1879, 1880 and 1881.

1847 1853 Club maker James McEwan moves his headquarters from Leith near Edinburgh to William Park Snr. took Musselburgh. the unusual step of issuing a public challenge in The Sporting Life 1848 newspaper. Offering to play Allan Sir Ralph Anstruther played a round of golf Robertson for a stake of £100 there was no at Blackheath near London with William immediate response. Then Tom Morris Snr Adam and Admiral William Maitland Dougall accepted his challenge. In a well-supported who used the new gutta percha match, he lost to Park at Musselburgh instead of his usual 'featheries'. Played in before winning the return match at driving rain he noticed that the new-style . Tom Morris agreed despite their controversial match at Musselburgh earlier in the year. They agreed to play for £100 in April 1856. There would be three rounds of golf on each of the Musselburgh, North Berwick and St. Andrews courses, finishing at St. Andrews on 10 May.

1856

1855 Tom Morris Snr. and William Park Snr. agreed to play for £100 in late April. There Tom Morris Snr. and home favourite William would be three rounds of golf at Park Snr. took part in a challenge match Musselburgh, North Berwick and finishing against each other at Musselburgh. Large at St. Andrews on the 10 May. Hoping to sums had been wagered on the outcome identify the top professional in Scotland, and the galleries were not beyond a little Willie Park won by 6-holes up. Morris skullduggery to influence the result. This immediately issued another challenge to be particular match threatened to turn into a played over the Old Course at St. Andrews riot after Park’s supporters began on the 26 October. Park won again. Willie interfering with the St. Andrews man ball Dunn Snr also took up the challenge but after he took the lead. Complaining that he lost easily to Park. had been “roughly jostled and his ball frequently interfered with,” Morris appealed to the referee who stopped play. 1857 Taking refuge in a links side pub named after the owner, Mrs. Foreman, Tom instigated a ‘Foursome refused to carry on until local police had Club’ competition at St. Andrews. The clubs achieved a level of order. Park then told invited to take part were Musselburgh, Morris that unless he continued with the North Berwick, Perth, , match he would claim the £100 prize Blackheath, St Andrews and Leven. The money! Morris declined and Park tournament took place on 29 July with controversially played on alone. Grabbing Montrose, Bruntsfield, Dirleton Castle and the money as he holed out on the final Innerleven also invited as were Panmure green, he was fortunate to escape without and the Hon. Company but they scratched. injury as those who bet on Morris wanted The Dirleton Castle team comprised of him disqualified. William Carse from Prestonpans and Robert Bertram a baker from North Berwick. William Park Snr. placed an advert in Bell’s George Glennie and J.C. Stewart won for Life magazine in Scotland on 11 October Blackheath. The following year the inter- with an offer to play anyone in a match over club competition took the form of an the links of St. Andrews, Musselburgh and individual tournament. North Berwick for the huge sum of £200. The first ‘World Championship’ of Golf was held at St. Andrews in April. Known as the ‘Grand National Tournament’, it was the 1858 first attempt at organising a tournament open to all Scottish Golf Clubs the prize was William Park Snr., golf ball maker of a . Musselburgh, North Berwick, Musselburgh, placed an advertisement in Perth, Carnoustie, Royal Blackheath of the Bell ‘s Life and Sporting Chronicle London, St. Andrews and Leven Golf Clubs newspaper on 6 June announcing that he all took part in the foresomes tourney and will: “play any man in the world for £100 or sent their best pairs. Montrose, Bruntsfield, £200 a side over 36 holes to be played on Dirleton Castle, Innerleven, Panmure and each of the three golfing greens at St. the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Andrews, Musselburgh, and North Golfers were all invited but did not take Berwick…” part. Watched by large crowds, the home team were beaten in the final by Blackheath represented by George Glennie and Lieut. 1859 John Stewart. Described as: “the Champion Golf Club of the world” both men were Charles Lees, a noted Scottish artist who honoured with life membership. The painted: “The Golfers: A Grand Match following year the inter-club competition Played over St. Andrew's Links,” painted a took the form of an individual match play second golf-related work named: “A tournament. Having established it as a Summer Evening on Musselburgh Links.” National tournament it eventually led to the But unlike his previous work which first British Amateur Championship in 1885 remained undiscovered for many years at when 26 clubs, subscribed to the trophy. Strathyrum House near St. Andrews, this painting was lost in pre-World War II Nazi Peter Paxton of Musselburgh was born. Germany. Purchased from the Royal Runner-up in the 1880 Open, Paxton was Scottish Academy by a private collector, he the professional at a number of English Golf bought it as an example of the artist's work Clubs including Malvern, Tooting Bec and rather than its golfing importance. It was Hanger Hill. A noted club-maker, he was then exported to Canada where it remained apprentice to Willie Park’s older brother, David. An active course designer in the 1890s, his work included Wimbledon Park, Limpsfield Chart, Rochford Hundred, Romney Sands and East Berkshire. for many years hanging upon the walls of opening only nine years earlier in 1851. his private residence. It was not until his William Park Snr. of Musselburgh was the son Walter Brown inherited it on the death winner and received the Champions Belt as of his father that the world finally became his prize. aware of its presence. Persuaded to have a series of limited edition prints made in 1938 Johnny Laidlay was born at Seacliff, near the Lees painting was dispatched to Munich North Berwick. He learned to play over the in Germany by New York publishers A. links at Musselburgh while attending Ackermann & Son. Shortly after a Loretto School and grew up to dominate photogravure plate was made and a few the British Amateur Championship for prints produced. Then War broke out in seven years from 1888, winning twice in 1939 and in the chaos, that followed both 1889 and 1891 and runner-up 1888, 1890 and the plate and original painting remained in 1893. Germany where they were inevitably lost. Some say the painting returned to Canada The first winner of but its whereabouts remain a mystery. was William Park Snr. of Musselburgh. Today, only a few of the photogravure Taking place on 17 November, he made a p strong start in windy conditions taking the r first-round lead with a score of 55 - three i shots better than Tom Morris Snr. Park and n Morris both scored 59 in the second round t but Tom could only claw back a single s stroke after shooting a 59 to Willie Park ‘s final round of 60 for a winning total of 174. r Andrew Strath finished behind Morris in e third place, six strokes behind. A well- m attended event, the Ayrshire Advertiser a reported that, ‘...the most veteran i frequenters of the Links will admit that in all n their experience of Morris, they never saw . him come to grief so often, because it is well known that the battle of Bunker’s Hill (an American Civil War reference) is an engagement which he has very seldom to 1 fight’. Considered a success, “As might 1860 have been anticipated, a good deal of money changed hands on the event,” the In what would be the first ever ‘Open’ Ayrshire Advertiser wrote of the first Open. Championship, Prestwick had decided to host the tournament after losing patience with more senior Scottish Golf Clubs like Musselburgh and St. Andrews. After 1861 numerous requests to join them in organizing a National ‘Open’ Competition The future King Edward VII of England was for Scottish professionals, the West Coast introduced to the game of golf on 29 June. Golf Club decided to go ahead alone despite The Earl of Eglinton and Sir James Gardiner Baird played a match at Musselburgh Links. a club maker with his uncle Mungo at Witnessed by the then Prince of Wales, he Alnmouth, he was appointed green-keeper borrowed the Earl’s clubs before playing a and professional at Ryton Golf Club aged round of golf with Sir James Baird, who was just 16 where he stayed for four years a former Captain in the 10th Light before returning to Musselburgh. Park lived Dragoons. for many years at 8 Mill Hill, Inveresk where he started in business as a club and ball maker. Author and two-time British Open champion, he expanded a thriving club 1863 making concern started by his father and was later involved in golf course design and Willie Park Snr. won the fourth British Open reconstruction. At one time, he had offices held on 18 September at Prestwick Golf in Musselburgh, Edinburgh, London and Club in Ayrshire. In the end, the doughty New York. Musselburgh professional held out for a two–stroke win with a final round of 58 for Tom Morris Snr. a 168 total against a 56 for Tom Morris on partnered 170. Obviously disappointed, at least Morris Andrew Strath had the consolation of picking up £5 for in a well- finishing as runner-up. (The first-time prize attended ‘St. money was offered by the Prestwick Golf Andrews versus Club, the winner still received nothing Musselburgh’ except the Belt.) challenge match over the Old

Course against 1864 Willie and David Park. Played over two rounds, the home pair of Strath and Morris The Honourable Company of Edinburgh found themselves 4 up with 14 holes to Golfers at Musselburgh agreed at a meeting play. Then as disaster struck, they managed on 17 February to allow local feather ball to lose 10 of the remaining holes! Round in maker John Gourlay to rent the nine-hole 89 and 85 against 88 and 95 for the St. links for the sum of £8 for the ensuing Andrews professionals, the Musselburgh season and “keep him free from loss...” pair finished a full nine strokes better. Reporting on the match, A.H. Doleman William Park Jnr. was born in Musselburgh. wrote: “Willie was the more brilliant player, Son of Willie Park Snr. and nephew of Tom the steadier. The great features in Mungo, he is Willie's play were his driving and his recognised as putting. His approach was scarcely so good, the first golfer both Old Tom and Willie's brother Davie to make a being, in my opinion, better approachers successful with the .” business empire out of the game. Apprenticed as for the upkeep of the golf course, actively resisting any interference with the playing of golf on the links and including the successful prevention of a road across the Links as proposed by the local Council. They enjoyed no special privileges over other golfers or clubs, paid an annual rent for the links of £25, undertook the mowing in the summer and paid £12 per annum for repairs to the links, general upkeep and cutting of the holes. 1865

The growing membership of The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, 1868 meant that the cramped headquarters under the Grandstand at Musselburgh was The Honourable Company of Edinburgh proving totally unsatisfactory. Forcing a Golfers build a clubhouse at 8 Links Place, move the committee met on 12 April to Musselburgh. In an effort to pay for its consider the cost of building a purpose-built construction they charge members an golf clubhouse on nearby Balcarres Road at annual subscription for the first time. a cost of £1000. All existing members were expected to join this new Club with their dues being used to pay for the re-modelling of the building. With 85 members paying a one-off payment of £3.3s, plus an annual fee of £1.1s (against a one-time payment of £10,10s to become a life member) the new clubhouse was completed in 1868 at a cost of £2,115. Built of grey stone the foundation cornerstone was laid as befitting the Honourable Company’s Masonic tradition. Larger than the three similar clubhouses later occupied by the Musselburgh Golf 1869 Club, the Royal Burgess Golfing Society, and Bruntsfield Golf Club, it was named the: Young and defeated Willie “The Golf House Club” with separate Park Snr. and on 23 February accounts being held from The Honourable at Musselburgh. Playing for £15 a side they Company of Edinburgh Golfers. Effectively won by 4 holes up. Two weeks later becoming a Club within a Club, they would Tommie Junior played a 36-hole singles later merge in 1882. All four buildings match against Ferguson on 6 March which remain today although No. 8 is now shared was halved. Deciding to carry on for 9 extra by an infant nursery and a Masonic Lodge. holes Ferguson finally managed to win. During their time at Musselburgh the Honourable Company took on an increasingly larger share of responsibility 1871 Anderson, Willie Park Snr. and Bob Ferguson. Young Tom took the first prize of Willie Dunn Jnr. of Musselburgh and his £10 with three creditable scores of 38 in twin brother Jamie establish a new club and high winds. ball-making business in Musselburgh. The minutes of The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews dated 1 May stated that the Greens Committee had been 1871 empowered to enter into communication with Prestwick and Musselburgh with a The Open Championship is cancelled view to reviving the competition for the because no winner’s prize is available. The Championship Belt. They were “authorised previous year, Tom Morris Jnr. had taken to contribute a sum not exceeding £15 from permanent possession of the Champions the funds of the club”. Belt after winning it three times in succession. In April, a proposal was put A letter of agreement between Prestwick, forward at Prestwick’s Spring Meeting by the R&A and the Honourable Company of Gilbert Mitchell Innes saying: “In Edinburgh Golfers at Musselburgh to jointly contemplation of St. Andrews, host the Open Championship was agreed Musselburgh and other clubs joining in the back in Spring but only signed on 11 September – barely two days before the Championship was due to be played on 13 September. It was agreed that the winner would receive a medal and that each of the three clubs would contribute £10 towards the cost of a new trophy which was a silver purchase of a Belt to be played for over claret jug. Sadly, the new trophy was not four or more greens,” he suggested, “it is ready to present to the winner of the 1872 not expedient for the club to provide a Belt Open. Instead they would be awarded with to be played for solely at Prestwick...” a gold winner’s medal.

Professional Willie Dunn opens his own golf shop near Musselburgh Links selling and 1874 repairing golf clubs. The Burgess Golf

Society originally 1872 played golf over the Bruntsfield The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Links but Golfers hosted a professionals-only because of increasing congestion and tournament at Musselburgh in April to traffic moved to the Musselburgh where coincide with their Spring Meeting. Playing they shared the links with The Honourable for a total purse of £30, twenty-one Company of Edinburgh Golfers, Bruntsfield professionals took part including Tom Links Golfing Society and the Royal Morris Snr and Jnr, David Strath, James Musselburgh Golf Club. Professional William Gibson Bloxsom an early age but abandoned it for a period backed himself to play 16 rounds of golf at of almost 20 years while working as a sailor. Musselburgh in one day – 144 holes! Returning to Musselburgh in 1871 he found Partnered by future British Open champion his golfing skills were unaffected by the Bob Ferguson, it proved little problem as he long layoff and afterwards took up club- completed the task with three hours to making as a spare. Indeed, the only thing that stopped profession. them completing more rounds was the When he died in stubborn attitude of his famously grumpy 1904, his family caddie John Carey known as ‘Fiery’ who donated the refused to go on saying he was: “damned if gold medal he he wad cairry anither yaird…” Later the won to the same year Bloxsom was asked to repeat the Grimsdyke Golf feat. Challenged to play ten rounds of the Club in Sussex to fifteen-hole layout that made up Aberdeen be played for as their scratch prize. Links at that time, the total of 150 holes would beat the 144 he had played at Musselburgh. Unable to resist, he actually raised the 1875 distance to In the first instance of golf cheating, a twelve group of Scottish professionals entered an rounds and a Open tournament at North Berwick on 3 ten-mile walk September. At the conclusion of the final – all to be round, Tom Morris Jnr. was declared the completed winner with a three-round total of 131, with within the 24 Willie Park Snr. second on 132 and Davie hours. A total Strath third on 133. Then just before the of 42 miles presentation was about to begin, golf ball he finished with hours to spare at 1.15 a.m. maker Ned Cosgrove of nearby and earned a fortune in bets. He died in Musselburgh returned a scorecard which 1923, aged 76. revealed that he had taken one shot less Snr won the first Open than Young Tom! Throwing the tournament Championship held at Musselburgh with a into chaos, match referee John Home record low total of 159. Hosted by the declared his score inadmissible because of Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers irregularities in the way it had been marked on 10 April, it was brought forward to by his playing partner, Willie Dunn, who was coincide with their Spring Meeting. The also disqualified for the same reason. final day was beset by poor weather with Despite his protestation of innocence, two of the three nine-hole rounds played in Cosgrove score was dismissed by the strong wind and rain. Mungo earned £8 for tournament organisers but after complaints his victory with finishing from gamblers who had bet on the second on 161. Part of the legendary Park outcome, he was awarded fourth place and golfing dynasty, Mungo was the brother of presented with the prize money. Willie Park Snr – the first winner of the

British Open in 1860. He had learned golf at 1877 David Strath played Bob Fergusson of Musselburgh in a £50 a-side match over four The Honourable Company proposed that rounds at Musselburgh and St. Andrews in the management of the Links at October. Strath was four holes up after the Musselburgh be entrusted to a joint first two rounds at Musselburgh in front of committee composed of members drawn 400 spectators with former British Open from all four clubs that used it including the champion acting as his fore- Musselburgh Golf Club, the Royal Burgess caddy. Fergusson squared the match in the Golfing Society and the Bruntsfield Links third round and there was a tense finish as Golf Club. Davie sank a three-foot putt on the last hole to halve the overall match. James Anderson wins the first of his three British 1880 Open Championships Robert ‘Bob’ Ferguson won the first of his at Musselburgh. three consecutive British Open Played over Championships on 9 April at Musselburgh. four rounds of Played over four rounds of the nine-hole the nine-hole course, just 30 players entered. (Short course on 6 notice given for the competition meant that April, Anderson few players travelled from St. Andrews was two strokes behind at the halfway including , winner of the point but saved his best form for the final past three Opens!) The largest crowd 18 holes with two nine-hole scores of 37 and followed Tom Morris Snr and ‘Bob’ 41 for 78. Giving him a winning total of 160, Ferguson and by the end of the second nine local pro Robert Pringle took second place holes Morris (87) trailed Ferguson (81) by 6 two strokes back on 162 after a final round shots. Tied with Peter Paxton after the third of 80; Andersons playing partner Bob nine holes of Ferguson took 84 for the second 18 to drop four, Ferguson into a tie for third place alongside the little- played well for a known William Cosgrove. Scoring a hole-in- final ‘round’ of one on the fifth hole in the final round, 39 and a winning ‘Jamie’ had a touch of good fortune when total of 162. Andrew Stuart, his marker, noticed a young Beating second girl in the crowd animatedly pointing out to place Paxton by her mother that he had teed up ahead of five strokes, the marker blocks! It could have proved a Cosgrove costly error. Stopping play, Anderson re- finished third on teed his ball before holing out in 168. Morris came spectacular style. Anderson also benefited to grief on the hole named ‘Mrs. Foreman’s’ from his closest rival’s error-strewn final in the final round and finished 13 shots round including David Strath who took 9 at behind the winner with 175. the second to drop down to fifth place. Andrew 1882 Kirkcaldy of St. Andrews scored Bob Ferguson captured his third a hole-in-one at consecutive British Open Championship at the closing hole St. Andrews on 30 September. Winning his during the first at Musselburgh in 1880, the 34-year old second round of professional opened with an excellent 83. the British Open Giving him a three-stroke lead over second at Musselburgh place Jack Kirkaldy and amateur Fitz and then nearly Boothby, he shot 88 for a winning total of repeated this 171. of St. Andrews who was feat in his third round, missing the hole by now professional at Dumfries, took second only half an inch. place with a second round of 86 for a total of 174. James Anderson finished in a four- way tie for third. The following year at Musselburgh Ferguson came close to 1881 winning his fourth consecutive title at Musselburgh but lost to Willie Fernie in Robert Ferguson of Musselburgh wins the play-off. Tragically he was disabled by an British Open at Prestwick on Friday, 14 attack of typhoid fever shortly after October. Played in high winds and driving recording his third consecutive win which rain - almost 200 fishermen lost their lives prevented him from playing tournaments that same day on the west Coast of and challenge matches for many months. Scotland - the start delayed by 90 minutes Even then he narrowly failed to make it before a sufficient number of volunteer four-in-a-row Open victories by losing out to markers could be persuaded to go out onto Willie Fernie at Musselburgh in 1883. the course. ‘Bob’ Ferguson was first out Afterwards he was forced to revert to and scored 53 to put himself four shots carrying clubs and giving occasional lessons better than second place James Anderson on Musselburgh links. and Bob Martin. In the second round, Anderson equaled Ferguson’s 60 but was still three strokes back. made up the most ground with a 56 to jump 1883 into second place. Defending champion Ferguson then shot a third and final round The Honourable Company of Edinburgh of 57 for a total of 170 and was forced to Golfers published their own , wait while the rest of the 22-man field “as played by The Honourable Company of finished. Jamie Anderson closed with a 56, Edinburgh Golfers on Musselburgh Links.” narrowing the gap to three shots to finish Printed by R & R Clark, Edinburgh it was runner up on 173. Ned Cosgrove finished “adapted” from the Rules of the Royal and third on 177 one stroke ahead of Martin in Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews. 4th place. Campbell could not repeat his second-round heroics and slumped to a 65 to tie for 5th place.

William Fernie won the British Open at 1886 Musselburgh on 16 November. Fernie matched defending champion Bob wins the British Open at his Fergusons’ four round total of 158 despite home course of Musselburgh on 5 taking a horrific 10 at the 2nd hole of his November. ‘Deacon’ Brown, as he was final round. The following day Fernie won known, was a roof slater by trade and was the first play-off in a major championship invited by John Anderson, secretary of the history by a single stroke - 158 to Ferguson's Musselburgh Club to make up the numbers. 159. Making him the only Open Champion When he arrived at the clubhouse he was to win with a double-figure score on his reputedly covered in chimney soot and was card, Dumfries-born Fernie had a fine ordered to take a bath before being record in the championship finishing runner provided with a pair of striped trousers, a up on four occasions in 1882, 1884, 1890 frock coat and a lum hat to wear. Played and 1891. A much respected professional, over four rounds of the nine-hole course, when Bob Ferguson, Willie left Troon in 1887, Fernie and Willie Fernie took over as Park Jnr. were all club professional and expected to do well. served for 37 years. Play started shortly As a pioneering golf after 10 am and course although the designer, weather began he made sunny and bright, improve within an hour heavy ments to rain was falling. the Old Brown recorded 38 Course at in his first round with St. another local man, Andrews Willie Campbell, and playing steadily Troon. despite the weather conditions to score 39. He also At the halfway point, Campbell and John designed Lambert led on 78 with Brown, Willie Fernie the Ailsa and Arran courses at . and Ben Campbell on a two-round total of 79. Brown then returned an excellent 37 for his third round. Holding a narrow one- stroke lead, his rival Campbell was 1884 distracted by an unruly crowd and found the notorious Pandy bunker on his way to a Willie Park Jnr. returns to work in his 42 for a final total score of 159. Brown father's shop in Musselburgh. In the next played steadily for a score of 41, ultimately few years his son Willie Jnr. took over the winning with a total of 157 strokes. An family business due to Willie Park Snr. own amateur at the time, he turned professional failing health. shortly afterward.

1887 39’s and he was just one behind Kirkaldy going into the third round. Only two other Bruntsfield Links Golf Society erected a players were also in contention - Ben Sayers purpose-built clubhouse at Musselburgh in with 79 and the amateur player Johnny a row which contained the clubhouses of Laidlay with an 81. Kirkaldy played solidly the Honourable Company, Royal for a 39 giving him a total aggregate of 155. Musselburgh and the Burgess Golf Society. Park came from 2 shots behind at the 4th to The club had moved to the links at tie Kirkaldy. The was held over 36 Musselburgh in 1874 after Bruntsfield Links holes on the following Monday. Kirkaldy in Edinburgh became disagreeably went ahead during the second round, but crowded. Park recovered well to go three strokes in front by the end of the third round. Park eventually beat Kirkaldy by five strokes to win the £8 first prize plus the gold medal. 1889

Willie Campbell of Musselburgh took part in a four-round challenge match against fellow professional over Carnoustie, St. Andrews, Musselburgh and Prestwick. The opening match was played on 12 April over Archie's home course at Carnoustie. Campbell won all four matches but it was the huge crowd at Musselburgh which made the headlines with both men consistently driving down an avenue of fans ten to twelve deep.

Willie Park Jnr. wins the last British Open staged at Musselburgh Links - the last Open played on a course with fewer than 18 holes. Played on 8 November, the daylight hours proved so short that some players 1891 relied on greens illuminated by street lights The decline in Musselburgh’s fortunes, can just to be able to hole-out. Play began at be traced back to the decision by the 10.30am and when bad light threatened the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers closing stages, several players who had no to relocate from the “disagreeably hope of winning, were quietly bribed by the crowded” links to a new course between organizers with 5 shillings each to withdraw Gullane and North Berwick. Named the so the leaders could finish. The biggest Howes on the Archerfield estate near crowd followed Park and his amateur Dirleton, The Scotsman newspaper, playing partner A.M. Ross. Park scored two reported on 3 May, saying that: “Musselburgh in these recent years has also agreeing to contribute £150 per annum been fairly overrun and the Honourable for the next five years to provide 100 club Company has done more for Musselburgh boxes for use by members of the HCEG who than (Musselburgh) has done for it.” A would continue to have all the privileges of former horse-racing track it led cynics to the New Club except participation in the claim that all they had done was move competitions and management. On the 6 ‘from one race-course to another! Other November, Mr. Alexander Stuart won the sites at Hedderwick on the Tyne Estuary by last Honourable Company medal to be and at Cragielaw by Aberlady were contested at Musselburgh. considered but rejected. The final choice came down to land at Saltcoats and the so- Musselburgh-born Willie Dunn arrived in the called “Hundred Acre Field” on the from Musselburgh. A future Archerfield Estate. Former Club captain Mr United States Open champion, he would B. Hall Blyth championed the later and he count Buffalo Bill Cody John D Rockefeller, proved persuasive. The club purchased the boxer John L Sullivan, Teddy Roosevelt and land in early 1891. Incredibly, by May of the WK Vanderbilt among his pupils. same year the new “green” at was open for play. The new course, called In the advertising section of the 9 October Muirfield, was designed by Tom Morris and issue of , Peter Paxton of opened Musselburgh announces that he keeps with a “Red and Black Gutta (golf balls) in Stock.” three-ball Black in its oxidised state, it was painted match on 3 white for general use but could be made in May. It red by applying additives for use in snow or would host frost. Many golf ball makers in the early the British 1890s offered both red and black gutta Open less percha balls. than twelve months later. Not all the HCEG members wanted to move to Muirfield with some 100 members electing to remain in Musselburgh to form ‘The New Club.’ A Minute of the HCEG Committee Meeting on 15 May, described how an amicable spilt was made with the land on which the members clubhouse stood, the actual building, plus fixtures and The new Tom Morris-designed ‘Muirfield’ furnishings including two armchairs, course was proposed as host for the engravings, paintings etc. were sold to the upcoming British Open. A contentious members who formed the New Club. The decision The Honourable Company of HCEG kept cutlery, crockery, glasses and Edinburgh Golfers had hosted the Open any items marked with their initials, while Championship six times over the nine-hole public links at Musselburgh before building their private course at Muirfield just outside Musselburgh Open was held a few days the village of Gullane. Having left later at Musselburgh Links. Proving popular Musselburgh less than a year earlier, they with competing professionals, it was played felt the Open should come with them seven times between 1892 and 1906 when rather than return to the overcrowded the Open was in Scotland - the only racecourse links. In response, the remaining exception was 1905 when the Golf Clubs at Musselburgh organized a rival Championship was played at St. Andrews. ‘Open’ prior to the Muirfield event with Prize money ranged between £41 and £100. greater prize money. This led to a After Willie Park Jnr. won in 1892 with confrontation which was only headed off and tied for when it was agreed the Musselburgh event second place. The original would be played the week prior to the format changed four years later in 1896 to Open - 14 and 15 September. Interestingly allow for the many amateur players who the prize money for the Open was raised to wished to compete. Described as a “new match the £100 put up for the Musselburgh system of two competitions - the first by competition from £30 in 1891. Not strokes and the second by holes” the first surprisingly, the ninth-month old course did day of stroke play saw the leading 16 not win universal approval with Andra players qualify for the match play stages on Kirkaldy among others dubbing the course the second day. an ‘auld water meadow’ because of the green, springy turf which contrasted with the hard, fast running ground usually found on traditional links courses. Alternatively, The Golfing Annual for this year stated: “As one of the three promoting clubs the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers were strictly with their rights in changing the venue, [from Musselburgh] but we question the wisdom of the change. Muirfield is an excellent private course — in fact we know of none better — and the putting greens 1893 are magnificent; but there is a same-ness Plans were published in the local press about the 18 holes and they are not such a about a proposed expansion of the ancient reliable test of Musselburgh links. The Edinburgh Evening golfing ability as News dated Friday 21st April 1893 broke the the nine holes at news with an outline plan. On Friday 28th Musselburgh.” April, further news was offered but no plan. With the ‘official’ Further information was offered on Open Wednesday 21st October 1894 with another Championship won plan and again on Saturday the 23rd March by , 1895. the rival

1894 taking up seven holes of the Old Luffness course. Scottish club maker James The earliest known moving film of a Waggott professional golf match was shot at played a Musselburgh on 20 May and featured two match at past British Open Champions – Willie Park Musselburgh Jnr and Willie Fernie. in April where he teed off the face of a wristwatch on 1902 every hole. Scoring 41 for nine holes, the David Brown of watch remained undamaged in any way. Musselburgh tied with in the U.S. Open at 1895 Baltusrol but was defeated in the play-off by two strokes 82- Musselburgh caddie John Martin was 84. Known by his Scottish friends as reported to have died in early January after “Deacon”, Brown had won the Open drinking to excess over the New Year Championship in 1886 and was known to festivities. have made a lot of money playing the stock market. Sadly, he lost most of his wealth during the Wall Street slump in 1929 and returned to Musselburgh, where he died a 1897 year later.

J.H. Taylor played a well-publicised big William Park money match against Willie Park Jnr. over Snr, winner of Musselburgh Links in Scotland and the first British Sudbrook Club in Richmond Park, Open near London. A four-round contest for £100 Championship a side, Taylor played typically accurate golf at Prestwick in all the way. Park was longer off the tee but 1860, died at erratic but thanks to his wonderful putting Laurel Bank, he won on the last green by a single hole. Levenhall, Musselburgh,

after a long 1898 illness on 25 July. He was buried three days later in nearby Inveresk Churchyard. His Musselburgh-based professional Willie Park oldest rival Tom Morris Snr. complained Jnr. was employed to design and supervise that he was unable to pay his respects after the laying out of a second course on a notice was posted in The Scotsman Gullane Hill. It opened on 14 July 1900, newspaper by his family saying: “Friends omitted, please accept this intimation and invitation.” For nine years ‘Auld Wullie’ 1913 challenged the world to play a match for £200 a side with few takers. Allan The most famous caddy in the world, James Robertson, one of his famous Carey died. Better known as “Fiery” contemporaries, once said to him, “Nae, because of his red, wind-beaten features, Willie, I'll play on your side, but I'll no play he was a familiar figure at Musselburgh again you.” His obituary read: “The Links for more than fifty years. The last of deceased, who was seventy years of age, the old school of which included had up till nine years ago, followed the “Big” Campbell, John Crawford and Bob trade of a clubmaker, first at Musselburgh, Ferguson, he used to carry for William Park then at North Berwick, and after 1875 at Jnr. in all his big money matches and Musselburgh. He came to the front in the championships. golfing world as a noted match player. When 21 years old he played his first great match against old Tom Morris for £50 a-side 1915 which the Musselburgh man won; in 1882 the pair again met, when old Tom Morris Three-time British Open winner Robert was the victor. In 1860, he won the ‘Bob’ Ferguson died. His first Open win championship belt at Prestwick, and in 1883 came at his native Musselburgh, followed at the same place he again won, when he by victories at Prestwick (in appalling claimed the trophy. He secured two further weather) and St. Andrews. The following champions year he tied Willie Fernie before losing in a hips at 36-hole play-off. Not long after he Prestwick contracted typhoid and rarely played again. in 1866 and Appointed Custodian of the Links at 1875. The Musselburgh he taught the boys of nearby deceased is Loretto School how to play. If they failed to survived by follow his instructions he was apt to rap four sons them across the calves with a club . and three Unlike his contemporaries, Tom Morris Snr. daughters, and William Park Jnr. Ferguson never all of benefited from his considerable fame. whom have Disabled by an attack of typhoid fever, not taken to long after his third consecutive victory in golf.” Although his poor health prevented 1882, he was unable to compete in first Park from playing golf for the last fifteen class challenge matches and reverted back years he was alive, the newspapers had not to his former job of caddying and giving forgotten him. The next day a lengthy lessons on Musselburgh links. “To be great obituary appeared in The Scotsman in the in golf requires the gift,” he once wrote but Golfing Topics section; another lengthy never alluded to what the “gift” actually obituary appeared in The Herald was. and brief news items on Park’s death appeared in The Manchester Guardian and The Times.

2013

A human skull was found in a bunker at Musselburgh Links, the world's oldest golf course, on the 22 January. The grim discovery was made after green staff had been excavating the grass lip of a bunker near the fourth green named 'Mrs. Formans.' Local police removed the skull 1925 for forensic examinations but initial tests showed it was more than 100 years old. Willie Park Jnr. died on 22 May after Curiously the second hole is named 'The suffering a nervous breakdown while in Graves' after the belief that it may have America. Believed to have been exhausted been a burial ground for soldiers who died from overwork, his younger brother Mungo at the Battle of Pinkie in 1547. Park Jnr. travelled from Argentina where he was working as a golf architect, to New York. He then accompanied him home to 2017 Musselburgh where Willie died at Craigiehall Mental Hospital in Edinburgh. He Talks took place over an ambitious £10- was aged 61. million plan to make Musselburgh Links – the oldest continuously-played golf course Royal Musselburgh in the world – “great again.” In February, Golf Club, who had news broke about a proposition by played at the Edinburgh-based Blue Thistle Ltd which Racecourse Links would see the nine-hole links “regenerated, from the mid-18th restored and recreated to the style and Century, relocated reputation of its former glory”. to their present site at Prestongrange Regarded as the oldest golf course in the world House. on which play has been continuous, Old Musselburgh Links is golf history come alive. Host

to numerous Open Championships and birthplace 1993 of many former winners, it remains among the most historic golfing ground anywhere. Managed The Musselburgh Old Course Golf Club by a charitable trust on behalf of East Lothian went Back to the Future, when they Council, Ray Montgomery, the council’s head of purchased the building once used by the infrastructure, said: “Representatives from Blue (Royal) Burgess Golfing Society at nearby 10 Thistle met with East Lothian Council regarding Balcarres Road. Reformed a few years their proposed development of Musselburgh earlier in 1982 they became the first Links. “This was at a very early stage and no Musselburgh-based Club to offer overseas negotiations have taken place. Musselburgh Old memberships. Course is Common Good land and as such is protected for the greater common good.”

Robin McGregor, director of Blue Thistle and former club secretary at Musselburgh Links, acquired private investment backing through binding shareholder agreements.

He has outlined proposals which would see million spent over the next seven years to restore the course to its previous Open Championship condition and refurbish the accompanying facilities, with a plan to create 40 new jobs.

He said: “The Musselburgh Links course has an immensely important role in the history and development of the game Scotland gave to the world and it is our wish that it be recognised and returned to its former glory.

“The investment is in place to launch this project and our shareholders remain satisfied the business plan is well-positioned to give them a good return on investment over the medium to long term.