SIMON RlCHARDSON Scottish Winter 1995..96

he 1995/96 season was one of severe contrasts. After a brief snow flurry T in November, winter only properly arrived in the hills in mid-December. Very low temperatures over Christmas were followed by a major thaw which stripped all but the highest corries. Another very cold spell in early February brought low-lying ice routes into condition, but it was only after this that snow began to fall in earnest over the Highlands. Easterly winds through March kept the weather poor in the Cairngorms whilst, further west, , and enjoyed a long settled spell. The snowpack was less thick than normal, however, so it was the main drainage lines which saw the best ice conditions. Despite the variable weather, new route activity was as high as in previous winters with approximately 200 first ascents. Two main trends emerged. Firstly, there was a high level of exploration of little-frequented areas such as the massif and the Western Highlands, resulting in many new medium-grade routes. Secondly, at the other end of the spectrum, the climbing of very techni­ cal mixed routes saw increased emphasis compared with previous years. This was reflected by the number of grade VIlIs climbed - some three new addi­ tions and three repeats - more than ever climbed before in a single winter. A selection of the season's important repeats and significant first ascents are described below, and full details can be found in the 1996 Scottish Mountain­ eering Club Journal.

Northern Highlands Without doubt, one of the finest ascents of the season was the first winter route on the NW Face of SuiIven by Roger Webb and Neil Wilson. Land and Free­ dom (V,7) approximates to the summer line of Rose Route, and is an important addition to Coigach's other prestige winter routes such as the Fhidhleir's Nose and Quinag's Barrel Buttress. In the Far North, Wilson scored a second coup with the first winter route on . The Great Game (V, 5) takes the promi­ nent 300m-high groove on the N Face of Sgor Chaonasaid and was climbed with Neil Stevenson. A good new ice-climbing venue was discovered in Coire na h-Eilde on the N Face of Sgurr na Feartaig above Achnashellach in Glen Carron. Seven routes were climbed, the best being The Stonker(IV, 5) by John Lyall, Andy Nisbet and Martin Welch. This tremendous ice route, which forms in the main deep gully­ line to the R of the other icefalls, gave 4 long ice pitches of continuous water-ice, finishing through some huge ice umbrellas, and is comparable in quality with the best of 's ice climbs.

248 SCOTTISH WINTER 1995·96 249

In Torridon a major prize fell to Martin Moran and Steve Chadwick with the first ascent of the steep headwall of the First Horn on Beinn AIIigin. The spectacular Depth Charge (VI,8) takes the series of impending grooves which overhang the imposing cleft of Deep South Gully. Another Torridon plum was scooped up by the Webb-Wilson team when they climbed The Sea, The Sea (VI,7), the impressive corner-line in the centre of the N Face ofSlioch. Although this imposing cliff is clearly visible from the S side of , it has a long approach from Kinlochewe and the descent involves a committing traverse over the summit.

Cairngorms Big news in the Northern Corries was the second ascent of The Vicar(VIII,8) by Mark Garthwaite and Andy Coish. The route carries the reputation as one of Scotland's most technical snowed-up rock climbs. This was a highly signifi- .1) cant repeat and the first Scottish grade VIII to receive a clean second ascent. The hardest new route in the Cairngorms was a winter ascent of Transformer (VII,8) in Coire an Lochain by Graeme Ettle and Andy Huntington. This starts up Gaffir's Groove then takes the prominent horizontal fault which crosses the steep side walls of Savage Slit, Fallout Corner and War andPeace, before continu­ ing R to a finish near Western Route. This is a very specialised route involving a large amount of traversing, but as it crosses some of the hardest routes in the corrie it results in a sensational piece of modern mixed climbing. For much of the season poor weather restricted activity elsewhere in the range although, unusually for such a well-developed area, two worthwhile gully lines were discovered. On Stag Rocks John Lyall and S Frazer found Truly, Madly, Chimbley (Ill) to the R of Cascade, and in the remote Garbh Choire Mor on Braeriach Chris Cartwright and Simon Richardson climbed the short but imposing Little Big Chimney (VI,7). Also of note was the second ascent of The Cardinal (VIII,8) on Beinn a'Bhuird by Robin McAllister and Mick Gray. This direct line up the crest of Mitre Ridge is one of Scotland's remotest high­ standard routes.

Central Highlands In Glen Coe Rab Anderson and Rob Milne made a winter ascent of the summer line of Raven's Edge (VIII,7) on Buachaille Etive Mor. The crux corner, spectacularly situated over Raven's Gully, was reached by a bold and technical traverse, before 2 pitches of intimidating and technical climbing led to a steep exit. On Aonach Dubh Andy Clarke and Colin Smith found Amazonia (V,S), a 32Sm-long icy chimney-line in the centre of the N Face, whilst across the glen on the , Paul Moores and Arthur Paul had a fine discovery with Findlay's Tail (IV), a companion ice route to Blue Riband. The latter route proved very popular during the cold February weather. On the repeat front, Robin McAllister and Dave McGimpsey made the second ascent of Inclination (VIII,8) in Stob Coire nan Lochan. This spectacular route takes a logical but highly improbable line across the wall L of Unicorn on South Buttress. Further north, on Ben Nevis, Simon Richardson and Chris Cartwright added Stringfellow (VI,6) to the crest of the Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower. This 250 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 1997 provided five sustained mixed pitches up icy cracks and thinly-plated slabs and is comparable in quality with the best mixed routes on the mountain. The same team also climbed Cornucopia (VII,9), the impending corner on the R wall of Number Three Gully. This proved to be very sustained and technical with a tenuous crux sequence involving bridging on minute holds. On the south side of the mountain Mick Tighe, Philip Coates, Alan Finch, Mark Jackson and Tim Littler made an opportunistic ascent of Surgeon's Gully (V) during the February freeze. This 400m-Iong feature has the reputation of being one of the most demanding summer gully climbs in the country, and 14 varied ice and mixed pitches were climbed to reach the top of the main difficulties. Further east, several teams added a variety of middle-grade routes to the remote Ben Alder. Typical of these was Raeburn's Gully (II) by M Bass, J Clamp and S Yearsley on the ZOOm-high S Buttress of Garbh Choire. This is the most prominent of a series of four routes added to the crag which was previously untouched in winter. Just to the N on , Neil Anderson and Andrew Bratt found Stairway to Heaven (IV,4) which takes a direct line up the large ice sheet in the centre of the cliff above Loch Coire Cheap.

Southern Highlands On The Cobbler Mark Garthwaite and Andy Coish added Viva Glas Vegas (VIII,7) to the unclimbed sweep of crag to the L of Gibber Crack on the South Peak. This proved to be a very bold and sustained route with limited protection and is the first grade VIII to be climbed on mica schist. On the North Peak Dave McGimpsey, Robin McAllister and Rob Milne added the sustained corner­ line ofMega Drive (VI,6) to the R wall of Great Gully. Further north, in the NE Coire of Beinn an Dothaidh, Roger Everett and Simon Richardson found a direct line up the barrel-fronted buttress of Pas de Deux, finishing up the prominent crack in the impending headwall. The top pitch of The Screaming (VIII,8) continuously overhangs, and ranks as one of Scotland's steepest winter pitches. The ascent was flawed by three axe rests and is a prime target for a completely free ascent.

Islands The.granite mountains on Arran came into good condition in February, when several new routes were climbed including The Strand (V,6) on Beinn Nuis by Andy Nelson and Steve Kennedy. This tremendous route takes the prominent L to R ramp-line to finish at the top of Nuis Chimney. On the NE Face of Cir Mhor Graham Little and Scott Muir found Mixed Emotions (V,5),.a splendid climb which takes a line out of the West Stone Shoot to join the upper section of Garrick's Route. On Skye the Coireachan Ruadh Face of Sgurr Dearg was visited by Brian Davison and Andy Nisbet who made a winter ascent of O'Brian and Julian's Climb (VI,5). The summer line is often wet and was therefore a prime target for a winter ascent, although in the prevailing icy conditions it was found to be a serious proposition. Further north, Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad made an enterprising visit to Cliffs in during the Christmas freeze. The Main Course (V) was the best of four new routes added to the main band of SCOTTISH WINTER 1995-96 251 cliffs which are seamed by several prominent gullies, and are clearly visible from the Old Man of StOIT.

Icefalls The unusually low temperatures in December and February brought several low-lying icefalls into condition. Typical of these was The Strathconon Experience (IIIIIV) by John MacKenzie and Graham Cullen, the cascading waterfall at the head of Strathconon. This formed four distinct tiers in a deep gorge separated by deep pools, and crossing these without falling in proved to be the crux! On Moruisg John Sumner and Paul Lester had a good find with the Moruisg Icefall (V,6). This 2-pitch vertical ice route lies in a slot just L of the entrance to Coire Toll nam Bian. The hardest icefall of the season was added to the roadside crag of Creag Dubh near Newtonmore by Mark Garthwaite, Neil Gresham and Andy Coish. Cup of Tea (VI,8) takes the hanging ice pillar on the L side ofBedtime Buttress, and can only be reached by difficult mixed climbing. Although only 20m in length, the route overhangs 2m in all and is similar in style to the harder North American mixed routes which climb through very steep rock to gain hanging icicles. On Aonach Mor M Pescod, T Barton, R Haynes, S Marsden and A Dodd climbed the frozen waterfall on the N side of the mountain below the Gondola station. Smoking the White Owl(IV,S) proved very popular during the February freeze and is a welcome addition to other low-level ice climbs in the area such as the Steall Waterfall in Glen Nevis.