rising star R wine region

Family-owned producers such as Donnafugata (pictured here) and Planeta are investing in vineyards across the island, dedicated to different grapes and styles of wines. renaissance island Finds Its Star Potential in Ancient Grapes & Modern Thinking

By liza b. zimmerman

ew regions in the world have at a glance indigenous varieties, the island also has seen so many cultural influences Sicily is about 9927 square miles, or become a model for organic viticulture; as Sicily. The Greeks, Phoeni- about the size of Maryland. examples include Cantine Cos, Occhip- cians and Romans have all left More than 50 native grapes are made inti and Tenata della Terre Nere. Honing Ftheir agricultural legacies over the centu- into wine on the island. a retro edge, many producers have revived 86% of the island’s wines are made ries. Unfortunately for Sicily, the island’s their ancient, gravity-flow wineries, called from native grapes. th wine legacy through much of the 20 cen- Most producers grow at least 9 palmenti; and a handful are returning to tury was enigmatic at best. different grape varieties. the traditional method of aging wine in This century, however, is a different Sicily has 23 DOCs and 1 DOCG clay amphora. story. The large, diverse island has proven (Cerasuolo di Vittoria). Of course, (an island ideal for grape- to be one of the wine world’s great recent 57% of Sicily’s wines are exported, and growing) makes it all possible. Rich renaissance stories. Sicily retains plenty the U.S. is one of the top markets.

of ancient credibility as home to more a than 50 indigenous grape . And Southern Italian-centric importers, such kul pa its modern stamp of quality is evident in as Winebow, started bringing Sicilian anna 23 DOCs and one DOCG, enhanced by wines in as affordable by-the-bottle and and i a slew of good press and growing glass choices. d r clout on-premise. In the past five years, cool- na climate reds from the volcanic soils of lter leo lter Shifting Gears Etna have been attracting attention, a y w For a long spell in the 1970s and particularly Nerello Mascalese. Top b ’80s, Corvo was about the only labels include Tenuta della Terre brand from Sicily with a notable Nere, Benanti, Cottanera and t to right) foothold in America. Inky, Passopisciaro. f (le s fruit-forward Nero d’Avolas On top of scoring a wave of h ap put the island on the wine good press and somm love for Alessio Planeta says that Beaujolais’s Morgon map two decades ago when their collective commitment to is an inspiration for his winery’s Cerasuolo di

Vittoria, and Spain’s Priorat is a reference for Photogr their Nero d’Avola. p to rising star R wine region

soils throughout the island, combined leading labels Sicily’S with a near constant breeze and hilly Donnafugata, Firriato, Planeta, Tasca White topography, work together to produce d’Almerita—which is part of the Regale- powerful and well-balanced wines. A ali estate—Stemmari and Cusumano are MiGration high concentration of limestone in some among consistent producers with broad ost have an image of Sicily as hot, areas, as well as many vineyards planted distribution. Almost all these major pro- at high altitudes—especially around ducers have multiple vineyards, and the red wine-focused territory, but Etna—impart many of the whites with wines deliver value across price points. Mtoday white grapes are responsible mineral notes and good structure. They Some of them also have Northern for some of its most exciting wines. also help to create elegant reds made Italian viticultural mother houses, which “Cool nights, our unique soil composition, from both native—especially often have deep pockets and decades of and ocean proximity provide ideal conditions and Perricone—and international grapes. wine making perspective. For example, for white wine,” says Antonio Rallo, of Donnafu- Zisola, outside of Noto, was founded by gata Winery and President of Wines of Sicily. Of Signatures Filippo Mazzei in 2002; Trentino’s Mez- the many indigenous grapes being rediscovered › Lush and fruit-forward Nero zacorona opened Feudo Arancio the pre- and rescued from extinction, whites are some of d’Avolas—some of which compare to vious year; and the owner of Castellare most fascinating and successful, he adds. Spanish Priorats—from Southeastern di Castellina in Chianti also runs Feudi Wines of Sicily recently launched a area around Noto. Nero d’Avola remains del Pisciotto. promotional campaign for (“Go Grillo”), arguably Sicily’s most important native a fresh, aromatic white grape which currently red variety. rising Stars accounts for 10% of plantings on the island. › Cool-climate reds from Etna as well “The U.S. consumer really loves this style; › Delicate and complex reds, grown on as lesser-known reds made from grapes Grillo has become our number two export to volcanic, high-altitude terroir around such as Frappato, Perricone and Nerello Etna. America, second to Nero d’Avola,” Rallo says. Mascalese. “It’s approachable and crisp like Pinot Grigio, › Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s sole › Single- estate such as but with more character.” DOCG wine, a sleek blend of dark Nero Peter Vinding-Diers produced in Melilli Planeta was an early believer in the d’Avola and bright Frappato. and Firriato’s Perricone-based Ribeca. island’s potential for outstanding whites: “When › Organic wines are a strong trend across we arrived to Etna, 85% of the plantings were What’s new Sicily, and speaks to the viticultural red and we planted 55% white grapes—we’ve Ever-more crisp, and fruit-forward whites commitment. been very pleased with the results,” reports are popping up all around the island, at Patricia Toth, Planeta’s winemaker. “Grecanico great prices and from a mix of native Selling Points expresses incredible minerality and freshness and international varieties. Top among › Large-scale producers like Feudo from the upper hillsides of the Sambuca area. native grapes: Grillo, and Arancio are making great wines that Carricante, once used only for bulk production, Insolia in single-varietal bottlings; they retail for $10 to $12 a bottle. has proved capable of elegant, bright, aromatic are blended deftly with Chardonnay as whites in volcanic soils of Etna.” Planeta was well. The emergence of high-quality › In the red-hot Red Blend category, also the fi rst to plant Chardonnay and Fiano in Sicilian whites on the scene Sicilian examples such as Sicily in the 1980s and ’90s; both have thrived. is long overdue and has been Planeta’s La Segreta stand Sicily’s reputation for stand-out whites is welcomed on national and out not only for their value, no secret to Italians: There has been big invest- international markets. The but also for their style— aromatic white Zibibbo in notably dry compared to ment by white wine specialists from Northern particular, often called the many of the new Cali- Italy who recognize the potential, and the Müller-Thurgau of Italy, fornia red blends. island’s whites are among the most distributed is being used to produce › Like many Mediter- throughout Italy: “It’s rare to fi nd wine from some stone fruit- and fl oral- ranean wines, Sicilian Tuscany or Piedmont in Sicily, but not the other driven whites that work wines are known for their way around,” says Rallo. beautifully with Asian food. food friendliness. ■ - KRISTEN BIELER