The Cape-to- Railway and Train Ferries: Discussion Author(s): Alfred Bigland, E. Grogan, C. Christy, Mr. Melland, Major Taylor and General Collard Source: The Geographical Journal, Vol. 55, No. 2 (Feb., 1920), pp. 101-108 Published by: geographicalj Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1781583 Accessed: 27-06-2016 10:31 UTC

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This railway from is frequently referred to erroneously as the Railway. It is known to the Germans as Kagera Railway, and was never intended to touch on , which was to have been tapped by an extension of the Usambara line from Moshi to Speke Gulf, through Arusha and the goldfields. Of the Kagera Railway, 40 kilometres had been con- structed from Tabora northward during 19t4-I5. The rails were removed by the Belgians at the beginning of this year for the completion of the Cape- Katanga line to the Lualaba. In German maps the Kagera is shown as flowing from west to north to Massekes passing Kigari, its upper waters only being termed Nyawa-Rongo, whereas it is our custom to show the whole length of this river as Nyawarongo, flowing into the main Kagera (or Alexandra ) at Kaseke; while, higher up the main stream, the German Ruvuvu is termed by us Kagera, rising within 30 miles of , with the Ruvuvu as a small tributary to its upper waters. From Kaseke, downstream to its mouth in Victoria Nyanza, the Kagera is infested with tsetse fly, mainly Glossina palpalis. There are roughly 3,700,oo000 head of native cattle in Ruanda. The hide traffic now passes from Kikali to Bukoba to Port Florence to . The Kagera Railway was designed to divert this vid Dar-es-Salaam. For many years it has been definitely laid down by authorities that in the rectangle formed by: (North) the southern frontier of ; (south) the German Central Railway; (east) the eastern shore of Lake Victoria; (west) from Lake Kivu to Ujiji on Tanganyika, it will not be possible to construct a line to connect the Central rail with the railway system of Uganda. This is not correct. It is true that the country is very mountainous, showing extreme volcanic complications over the whole area indicated, with no clear systems of ranges or valleys. No European has hitherto had an opportunity of spending any time in this area with the exception of the few German officials. In Ruandi and Urundi there are no white traders or settlers. Before the war, the country was a closed area from the time the Germans opened political stations in 191o-12. I have been for five months engaged there on a political mission up to March I9I7. It will be noticed on every existing map that the country north' ward from the terminus (Kaseke) of the projected railway remains, by accident or design, quite uncharted. British maps are recent compilations from German sources; also from the northern edge of this area up to the Uganda frontier the map is in many cases curiously incorrect. I was able, when my duties and the unsettled state of the country permitted, to . . . confirm the existence in the uncharted portion lying parallel to the course of the Kagera, of a remarkable valley which provides an unexpected avenue ,f communication between Kaseke and the Kakitumba valley. Thence access is assured to the Rushenyi plains of Uganda and the Fort Portal system of rail. Thence, also, north-westward through the Ntungwe valley, if required, to Lake Edward (and also to Stanleyville on the main Congo communications, via the Obo-Chodo divide). This I consider to be the key to the development and junction of the central and northern railway systems of , east of the great divide.

Befoxe the paper the PRESIDENT said: It is twenty-three years ago since I had a most pleasant breakfast at Fort Salisbury in Rhodesia with Mr. Wilson Fox, when I was up there as Times correspondent, stopping with Mr. . We were then discussing this great scheme, first of the trans- continental telegraph, and then of the Cape-to-Cairo railway. Mr. Wilson Fox

This content downloaded from 137.99.31.134 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 10:31:29 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 1o2 THE CAPE-TO-CAIRO RAILWAY AND TRAIN FERRIES was for many years in Rhodesia, and he is, as you know, a Director of the Chartered Company. We welcome him here this evening, and I am quite certain we shall have a very interesting lecture from him on this dream of Cecil Rhodes, of a railway right down the centre of Africa from Cairo to the Cape.

Ml[r. Wilsoft Fox then read the papfier printecd above, and a discussion followed. The PRESIDENT: It is unfortunate that several gentlemen whom we had hoped would have taken part in the discussion this evening are not able to be present. Lord Milner left England last Saturday; Sir Eric Geddes was also invited, but he had to plead an official engagement. Col. Amery, who had promised to speak, and who is taking the place of Lord Milner during his absence in , has been commanded to dine with the King this evening to welcome the Prince of Wales on his return home. Sir Alfred Sharpe, who addressed us at our last mecting, and who would, I am sure, have taken part in an invigorating discussion this evening, is unfortunately in bed with influenza. We have, however, other authorities here, and I will ask Mr. Alfred Bigland, [.P., who is well known for his interest in developing the Empire, to lead off with a general view of this question of communication down the heart of Central Africa. Mr. ALFRED BIGLAND, IM.P.: From early days I have been a great admirer of Cecil Rhodes, and in recent years of the lecturer to-night. He and I have worked together for the past three years on a certain Committee which has been debating and considering Empire resources in many ways, and in the paper read to-night you have heard an illustration of the possibilities in the future development of the . We were all proud to see that map with a continuous colouring from north to south. Many of us believe that this work has fallen upon our shoulders because we have been found worthy in small matters in the past, and that still greater responsibilities have been called from us as members of the Anglo-Saxon race under which we call our- selves British. Mr. President, the idea I would like to put before you is this. There is no investment, there is no security so great for a national purse, for a State enterprise, as land; especially when we have men like Mr. Wilson Fox to select the most fertile portions of that land for the development, and for the necessities of generations to come, and the health and comfort of the people who will settle upon it. I have studied a little the possibilities of Nyasaland, where tobacco and many of the things that we must have for life, comfort, and luxury are grown, and I feel myself under the greatest debt of gratitude to Mr. Wilson Fox for the labour he has devoted to preparing the paper we have listened to. Many of us thought that Cecil Rhodes' Cape-to-Cairo railway might come in our grandsons' time, but Mr. Wilson Fox has shown us the possibility that some who are middle aged to-day may see the completion of that great effort. There is no doubt in my mind that when you have once your main line, the feeders east and west will naturally follow, but the feeders without the connection would be a very imperfect plan of development. In the House of Commons only a fortnight ago we were asked to pass a motion voting a guarantee of three and a half millions for the development of cotton- growing land in the . We in Lancashire have sixty millions of spindles waiting for cotton to Ie spun. We must keep our machinery and our operatives supplied with raw material, and I say that the scheme developed to-night is one that every Englishman should be proud to further in every possible way. The PRESIDENT: Major Grogan, who made the first through journey ;rom

This content downloaded from 137.99.31.134 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 10:31:29 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms THE CAPE-TO-CAIRO RAILWAY AND TRAIN FERRIES Io03 north to south, and has been serving in East Africa during the war, is here this evening. Perhaps he will give some of his local experience and views upon the paper. Major E. GROGAN: It is very nearly twenty years since I last addressed this Society, and it is very nearly a quarter of a century since, with his younger brother, I fell upon the lecturer at his home in Salisbury and ate and drank him out of hi.s house. I have listened with the utmost interest to the admirable lecture we have had to-night, and there are two things which struck me more than anything else. The first is that with such an old friend and old African as Mr. Wilson Fox there could be so many points on which I could find myself in such complete disagreement with him. I am not going to take this opportunity of challenging the axioms upon which his argument has relied, or the various conclusions which he has advanced, because if I were to do so in detail with such a very important subject it would take too long. The next thing that struck me, and this perhaps more than an)thing else, is that it only shows how completely we lack any co-ordinating factor in these great Imperial problems, when I can stand on this platform and assert that I am still the only living man who has seen all thle various territories that have been traversed to-night on paper. But I do really feel something ought to be done in this country to bring this great issue to a focus. I feel very strongly indeed that the initiative ought to be taken by. the Government in this country to induce the French, the Portuguese, the Italians, the Belgians and ourselves to appoint a Commission to take all the evidence available in the world (and it is not very much) and lay down once for all the principal factors that define railway construction in Africa, and deduce from that the main arterial system of trans- continental communications for the continent. That ought to be done by a body that sits right outside Africa; and only then we should get away from the miserable happenings of the past, when each district, province, and country is poking out little railways of its own without any idea where they are going to lead to or merely pushing to some particular mine or forest that happens to be the obsession of the moment. I can assure you that probably fifty per cent. of the middle African railway construction that has taken place has been to a very great extent waste expenditure, for the simple reason that no main system had ever been laid down to which everything else could be related; and I trust everybody here to-night will do his utmost to help the formation of such a Committee as I have suggested to lay down once for all the main arterial system to which African railway construction should conform. The PRESIDENT: We have heard from Mr. Wilson Fox of the ideas of Dr. Christy, who has travelled in Central Africa and who has very decided views of his own upon the railway question. Perhaps he would kindly favour us with those views. Dr. C. CHRISTY: I am particularly pleased at being asked to speak this evening, because the very instructive paper we have listened to has a special interest for me, having travelled through nearly all the regions in north- eastern and Central Africa along which one or other of the alternative routes of the Cape-to-Cairo Railway System may one day pass. I can assure you that the truest statement Mr. Wilson Fox has made this evening is that " the most crying need Of Africa is for through north-and-south communication, not so m,ch for goods as for passengers." The great gap between the northern and southern terminals, not rail heads, is something like 1750 miles direct, out of a total of about 4500 miles, and I am not at all disposed to agree with

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Mr. Wilson Fox that attention should first be paid to the southern part of that gap, nor do I think it will be. To push on through communication from the north, from the direction of Europe, in the Sudan--a country developing by leaps and bounds--that is the crying need. The northern terminal, we will say, is at Kosti or Sennar, the railhead at E1 Obeid, and the urgent necessity is for through communication by rail to Rejaf and Lake Albert. Unfortunately the Sudd region--35,ooo square miles of swamp, long grass and water-lies right in the way. To surmount the difficulty there are three alternatives, viz. to the east via Abyssinia, through the swamp direct, and to the west. Now the western alternative is what Mr. Wilson Fox has termed the " Christy " route, along the Nile-Congo watershed, which I traversed in 1915, and he will perhaps forgive me if I venture to correct his statement that the distance from Lake Albert to by this route would be 2000 miles. It is less than 1500, over 500 of which is constructed to El Obeid, leaving about go900 to complete. El Fasher would be connected by a branch line. He also says that the Christy route must be an unfavourable one because it is a long ddtour to the west, but may I point out that the route in the southern section which he himself suggests, via Beira and Portuguese East Africa, involves a ddtour of 500 miles to the east and a on Lake Nyasa. The Nile-Congo watershed route would not be an expensive one, for the divide, as I have stated elsewhere, is level and continuous. There is abun- dance of water and valuable timber, and much of the region is thickly populated by very interesting, industrious and peaceful tribes. There are few more healthy or beautiful spots in Africa. On the other hand, the two alternative routes have none of these advantages except water. There is no doubt in my mind that the gap in the north and south through communications will first be bridged by a rail and steamer route via the Congo. The railhead of the Cape to Congo is, as you have seen, at Bukama, 2600 miles from . Then there are 300 miles of river, 200 miles of railway to Kindu, I90 more of river, and 80 miles more of railway from Ponthierville to Stanleyville. This latter railway has been built for some years. There is then a road from Stanleyville to Irumu and Mahagi on Lake Albert, now being built as a motor road, to be converted eventually into a railway. The only gap in the rail and steamer communication, along which the traveller will have to walk is between Nimule and Rejaf, past the Fola Rapids, Rejaf being the southern limit of navigation from Khartoum. It is not generally known, but even to-day a traveller from the Cape may arrive at Cairo by an overland route, having travelled entirely by rail,[steamer and motor car, with the exception of the Ioo miles that I have mentioned between Nimule and Rejaf. But this is vid Uganda, and not the Congo. As for train ferries, I have not sufficient knowledge of them to be able to give an opinion as to their utility. All the great lakes of Africa have to be reached by a long railway journey, and it seems to me that as they would have to be built in Europe their transportation by sea and railway, and reconstruction on the lakes, would be a very costly affair. At the same time, I hope that Mr. Wilson Fox will push his great scheme of train ferries. It may not be found feasible to go so far round as Lake Nyasa, but the utilization of the 400 miles of waterway on , originally part of Mr. Rhodes' great dream, is possibly another matter. The PRESIDENT: Mr. Melland, who is District Commissioner of the Kasempa District, will perhaps give us an account of the kind of country the railway will have to pass through in North-East khodesia.

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Mr. MELLAND : I have very few claims to speak to-night, and any descrip- tion of a country like Northern Rhodesia would not be of interest and would take too long. There was one point in Mr. Wilson Fox's paper which caught my attention, and that was that he said that more impulse was needed to complete the gaps in the railway from the Cape to Cairo. That seems to me the greatest point he could make. The impulse can surely be found in the fact that we have a very strong dual responsibility in Africa, the one to exploit all the resources of the country of which we have such great need; and the other that we owe a very strong debt to the native inhabitants there, for whom we call ourselves trustees, and who have proved themselves very loyal citizens during the war, which debt we can pay by educating them and helping them to develop their country side by side with European developments.. The great difficulty in providing that impulse seems to me the question of money. During the time I have been in England on leave and talking about the development of Africa, in which I am much interested, I am always met with the answer, " Oh, if you want money your chances are hopeless; there is not enough money in England now to spend any on Africa." This is a very great mistake, because I think the best possible investment we could make would be in Africa, and the only way we could get wealth out of Africa is by railway and other transport development. Whether one way or another--the way advocated by Mr. Wilson Fox or other ways-is better, is a subject upon which I do not feel competent to speak. Major Grogan said he thought it would be a very good thing if international conferences were appointed to decide the system of communication across Africa. I must say I agree entirely with him; but instead of waiting indefinitely for these conferences, it would be a very great thing if the Government of Great Britain had a conference of its own to decide what we could do within British territory. Instead of having separate Pro- tectorates, each trying to work for their own ends, I can see no reason why we should not start immediately to have some central Government for the whole of East Central Africa, which could decide upon the best ways for opening up that country by rail, river, and train ferries. I hope we shall not only be able to produce the products needed for England, which are so badly needed, such as cotton for Lancashire, but also I hope that in addition to the mills which are working in Lancashire and India, we shall before very long establish mills and similar industries in Uganda and other places, instead of having to export cotton and bring it back in the form of calico. There is an enormous future for Africa if we can only invest money in railways and other transport, and try to get a unified policy for development-in a broad sense-throughout the area. Good and remunerative development depends on improved transport, but it will very surely follow it. The PRESIDENT: I see Major Taylor here, who is a railway engineer of great experience in India and has been for several years recently in East Africa. I hope he will give us some general views on this great question. Major TAYLOR: I come before you in quite a different position from any of the other speakers; being an engineer and railway manager, I look perhaps more at the practical side than some of those who have spoken before me. One advocated the advantage of a strong picking up traffic from subsidiary feeders, but I am afraid that is not my idea or any railway- man's idea of developing Africa. I endorse the lecturer's view that some through connection is absolutely essential, and should be pushed for all it is worth, either by road, river or rail; it does not really matter for the moment which way, because it will be long before traffic will warrant a through express I

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service, such as we have from Calais to Brindisi. The lecturer suggested some passengers doing a tour of four or five months; and surely it does not require a train-ferry to carry these passengers. Goods will always take the shortest route, and goods from anywhere, from the centre of Africa or along the rift, must come either to the eastern or western ports, probably to the east coast. The central extensions will be most advantageous for strategic purposes and for connecting up the various east-and-west lines, so that it would be possible to bring rolling-stock from one of these lines leading to the coast to other parts of the continent. But the difficulties of the gauge question are rather serious, because for technical reasons it will be impossible to lay down a third rail on the metre gauge. The difficulty can be met by a double track, but it would mean having wooden sleepers. The is all laid with steel sleepers, a road easy to maintain and quite suitable to the very rough class of labour available. I do not know whether the central railway has wooden or steel sleepers. As general manager of the Uganda railway, I pressed for the extension of that railway across the Uasin Guisho plateau, thence along the north of the lake through Uganda, connecting up Jinja and , and on westwards to the Congo to Stanleyville; but I was told, " You are letting your blue pencil run away with you." However, that is a very possible line, and certainly should go on. Now I come to the question of waggon ferries. I had the opportunity of seeing the working of the waggon ferries at Richborough and Southampton during the war. I have gone into the question lately, and I cannot see the great advantage of putting them on that north-and-south route. On Lake Victoria they might be advantageous. On the contrary, I see the greater advantage of having an ordinary steamer which can put in at ports on the lake and pick up local traffic. It is hardly equitable to compare the cost of the installation- of a train ferry with the cost of the construction of a railway, for the waggon ferry can pick up nothing during those 300 or 400 miles, whilst a local railway would gather up trade and perhaps pay its own way locally. The waggon ferry does nothing except transport from end to end. But these are only criticisms in detail of the advantage of a through system. I certainly will do all I can to push the Cape-to-Cairo railway, and I hope you will all do the same. General COLLARD : I do not think there is really very much I can tell you on this matter, except perhaps to correct one or two things which have been said by the people who have criticized the scheme. It has been mentioned by somebody that a very great weight would have to be transported in one of these vessels. The weight of a train ferry of that size would be nothing very big at all, and the vessel itself would not be very much bigger than vessels already on the lake. The weight of it would be somewhere in the neighbour- hood of I700 tons, and none of the pieces would be larger than could be easily transported on railway trucks. I compiled a short memorandum on this subject of train ferries for the Colonial Office at the beginning of this year, and went into the question as to which would be the best routes. All those various matters which have been brought out in this lecture came to light in this memorandum to some extent. But what I should like to bring out is this, that what would have to be considered is not which is the shortest route or the easiest route to connect two points together, but which route would give the best traffic. That is to say, instead of connecting up from one fixed point to another, it should be worked out and thought of purely from a traffic point of view, and the whole thing gradually joined up in that way. It therefore might be much better to take a longer route than to take a more

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direct route. That is the reason why I think Mr. Wilson Fox suggests keeping well to the east in the southern part rather than going to the west. And in the same way I am inclined to agree with Dr. Christy. The western route on the northern end of the line would probably be the one which would be better and quicker than any eastern route. I do not think I can say anything further on the subject, except that it is one I have very much at heart, and would like to see carried out as soon as possible. The PRESIDENT: We must recognize the great care and enthusiasm with which Mr. Wilson Fox has prepared the paper he has read to us this evening, and the very convincing way in which he has put before us the main idea of running a railway down the centre of Africa. He said quite frankly that there are objections to it, that there is the other school of thought which would have the connections to the coast, and it is a matter of regret that we should not have had here this evening Sir Alfred Sharpe to put that point of view before us with his usual force and lucidity. From pure geography we have wandered away a good deal into railway engineering and train ferries; but from the geo- graphical point of view the chief point of interest was certainly that valley which had been, I will not say discovered, but the significance of which was first pointed out by Captain Phillips. Those of you who read the Geographical Journal will read in the appendix to Mr. Wilson Fox's paper an account of what Captain Phillips has observed in his explorations in Africa. I will not detain you any longer, but ask you to give a particularly hearty vote of thanks to Mr. Wilson Fox, and we may hope when he has got his great scheme carried through he will take us all with him as his guests, so that we may enjoy the beauties he has described!

Sir AlJred Sharpe sends the following notes, which he would have con- tributed to the discussion if he hadl not been prevented by illness. It was a disappointment to me not being able to hear Mr. Wilson Fox's paper. His contention seems to be that the first aim in these lake regions should be a Cape-to-Cairo-north-and-south-line of railway, or mixed rail and train ferry. What I consider they want is the shortest and cheapest outlet to a coast port for their trade--whether west, south, or north makes no difference; it's a matter of business. Consider for a moment, seriously, where this trade will flow (has, indeed, already begun to flow). (a) Lake Nyasa regions, North-Eastern Rhodesia, Kondeland, Nyasaland, Zambezia, etc. By collection largely at many ports on Lake Nyasa, and then on by the direct Beira-Nyasa railway to Beira (not to Cape, nor to Cairo). (b) Lake Tanganyika regions, with a portion of the Eastern , the north-western half of the Nyasa-Tanganyika plateau, Lake Kivu regions (when connected with Tanganyika by a short railway), western Ruanda, etc., and of course all " German East." By collection at many ports on Lake Tanganyika, and then by direct rail from at (not to Cape, nor to Cairo). (c) Lake Victoria regions, with Uganda, Toro, all " British East" Africa, eastern Ruanda, Urundi, etc. By collection partly at many ports on Lake Victoria and at depots on the "L Uganda Railway " and its future extension, and direct by rail to Mombasa (not to Cape, nor to Cairo). (d) Katanga and the regions immediately north of it. At present by rail to Beira. Later on by rail west to Lobito Bay (not to Cape, nor to Cairo). (e) The bulk of the Belgian Congo, To ports on the West Coast.

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Unless, therefore, you are south of Rhodesia or north of Lake Albert, where can the usefulness of a Cape-to-Cairo route come in, as such ? A mixed steamer and rail route from north to south of Africa will materialize of itself, very soon, by the interconnection of lines to be built to develop all these lake regions. But the pleasant popular idea of a tourist run from Cairo to Capetown is not the one we should have chiefly in our minds in connection with plans for Central African railways, so much as which is the best and cheapest outlet for such and such a region. One can travel from Cape to Cairo to-day, and have an easy and fascinating journey. By-and-by it will be much easier; some day merely a tourist trip. As to train ferries: it is, I think, clear that to make this an economical proposition you must have a very large stream of traffic interrupted by a water passage. There is never likely to be a large stream of traffic passing north and south on the African lakes. What will be required is many small coasting boats picking up trade at a variety of ports on Nyasa, Tanganyika, Victoria, etc., and depositing it at the railway dep6ts for transport to the coast. A train ferry could not go round Lake Victoria picking up a bale of cotton here and a parcel of rubber there. It would only be of use from one railway terminus to another, between which there must be a very large volume of trade passing in order to make it a payable proposition. I can see an eventuality (quite a possible one, too) which would create the need for a train ferry on one or other of the lakes-that is, if some great centre of industry were to open out west of them-some big mineral proposition, copper, chrome, manganese, or coal, which demanded economical carriage in ex- tremely large quantities to make it a payable undertaking. On or near the shores of Nyasa, for example, are coal, iron and lime. As to the Cape-to-Cairo tourist, as soon as the Beira-Nyasa railway is finished (let us hope in two to three years), and a railway has been run across the Nyasa-Tanganyika plateau to tap that fine country both to the south-east and to the north-west, and a short line of 60 to 70 miles has been built to connect Kivu with Tanganyika, he will then be able to travel by train and by comfortable lake steamers from Capetown to the southernmost sources of the Nile. As for the balance of his journey north-well, we can imagine all sorts of nice .things in future, with the help of Thomas Cook. My point of view, however, is the business one; for the development of these fine lake regions of Africa we must, I think, look for the shortest and cheapest lines of com- munication with the sea. Another point which struck me was the lecturer's comparison of the cost of a train ferry on Lake Tanganyika with that of a railway built along the lake- shores. But no one would, I fancy, suggest the construction of a railway running alongside 400 miles of deep water communication in Africa.

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