FISCHELIS TO MACY’S EAST/2 LIZ CLAIBORNE NET UP 14%/9 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • October 29, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty Four Front NEW YORK — It certainly was Giorgio Armani’s week. He took New York City by storm with a major fashion show, a party, a book signing, a luncheon and he even found time to talk about his quartet of fragrances, called Privé, that will be launched here and in Europe in December. At $185 a bottle, it will be his couture statement in fragrance and the latest entry in an emerging luxury-priced category. For more, see stories on pages 16 and 17.

Beauty Makeover: Demsey Takes Over Estée Lauder Brand By Julie Naughton and Pete Born Lauder brand. Group, will continue to oversee NEW YORK — Estée Lauder Cos. Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, the Lauder’s development while shook up its top management lineup group president who has run the Demsey directs the brand. Thursday by naming MAC Lauder division since 2001 while Bousquet-Chavanne will focus Cosmetics president John Demsey also supervising MAC and the more fully on strategic initiatives, as president of its flagship Estée Aramis and Designer Fragrance See New, Page 13 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDFRIDAY Macy’s East Taps Fischelis for RTW Beauty By David Moin primarily a moderate-to-better-priced chain. FASHION Early in her career, she worked in a buying office In Los Angeles, Pamella Protzel had a weekend getaway, Jenni Kayne riffed NEW YORK — Macy’s East has taken the high road in Paris that represented stores such as Neiman on American sportswear, Ashley Paige went “Sweet Home Alabama.” to pump up its fashion office. Marcus, Marshall Field’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and 10 Nicole Fischelis, a marquee name in fashion Holt Renfrew. She came to the U.S. in 1991 to work and a veteran of Saks Fifth Avenue and Salvatore for Saks, where she stayed for 10 years and held the Ferragamo, will join the 81-unit Macy’s East chain title of vice president and women’s fashion director. GENERAL Estée Lauder Cos. shook up its top management lineup by naming MAC on Nov. 29 as vice president and fashion director After Saks, she joined Ferragamo as senior vice pres- for ready-to-wear, according to Ron Klein, chair- ident of fashion worldwide, and has most recently 1 Cosmetics president John Demsey as president of its signature brand. man and chief executive officer of Macy’s East. been doing some fashion consulting in Europe. Nicole Fischelis, a veteran of Saks Fifth Avenue and Salvatore Ferragamo, is “This is a big job,” said Klein, who disclosed the Klein said it’s not a stretch to bring Fischelis to 2 joining Macy’s East as vice president and fashion director for rtw. appointment of Fischelis in an Macy’s. “Our core customer is exclusive interview Thursday. different from the channels Liz Claiborne Inc. saw net income for the third quarter jump 14 percent to He explained Fischelis will where she spent significant 9 $111.6 million, as sales increased 11.3 percent to $1.31 billion. have responsibilities for trend- amount of time working. How- spotting and fashion forecasting ever, if you look at the trends for ready-to-wear, and will work across product categories, you SUZY closely with the merchant, mar- will see that they are frequently Jennifer Lopez clears a cool $10 million for the sale of her Beverly Hills keting and visual teams, ulti- represented in every channel,” 8 mansion…The royal grandkids grow up…Bridget’s bra woes. mately helping to shape the mix Klein said. He believes that on the selling floors. American consumers are “fash- Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 In addition, Fischelis will ion-savvy” regardless of where To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is help select merchandise for they shop, be it Macy’s, Target [email protected], using the individual’s name. catalogues and translate the or Saks, and that retailers and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 season’s trends to in-store spe- manufacturers, through tech- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. cial events, such as trunk nologies such as computer- VOLUME 188, NO. 92. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional shows. She will also serve as aided design, are much faster to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 the voice of Macy’s on what’s interpret trends seen initially West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; hot and what’s selling, and will on the runways and generally Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior be attending fashion shows in sold first at higher-priced and Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- New York and Europe. luxury stores. He said with President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Fischelis will report to Fischelis on board, Macy’s can additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. Karen Smith-Harvey, senior more readily seize fashion POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. vice president, fashion forecast- trends. Being fast on trends, he FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR ing and trend direction. Others said, “is one of the biggest ways DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new in the fashion office, which to drive top-line volume.” subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive If you look at the trends across product categories, you will these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. “ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED see that they are frequently represented in every channel. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED — Ron Klein, Macy’s East TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. began rebuilding its team this year, include Steve In a statement, Fischelis said, “I am very happy Cardino, vice president and men’s fashion director, to come back to New York which I have missed and and Russell Orlando, vice president and fashion di- is a home for me. Macy’s is America’s store with a rector for center core. Fischelis moves into a spot history and most importantly a vision.” Quote of the Week previously held by Joe Denofrio, who shifted over to It’s not the first time that Macy’s has recruited the home store. fashion executives from pricier retailers. Ellin Fischelis was born in France and comes from a Saltzman, a former Saks Fifth Avenue senior vice family of furriers. While the activities she takes on president and director of fashion and product de- “It’s the new Polo.” at Macy’s are similar to the tasks she performed in velopment, joined Macy’s in 1989 as senior vice her previous jobs, most of her experience has been president and corporate fashion director. She left — Ralph Lauren, during a tour centered on designer merchandise and businesses in 1992 to join Bergdorf Goodman, and, later, of his Rugby store in Boston. that are high-end compared with Macy’s, which is Limited Brands. In Brief Guess 3Q Profits Vault 76.6% ● POWER SHIFT: Prada declined to comment on a report in NEW YORK — Double-digit gains in royalties million from $10.1 million. Italian daily MF that it has tapped former San Paolo IMI banker and product sales sent earnings soaring for “We recently announced the planned acquisi- Carlo Mazzi to fill a newly created but yet-to-be-named position Guess Inc. in the third quarter and nine months. tion of our jeanswear licensee in Europe, which at Prada. The luxury goods company has said it is reorganizing For the three months ended Sept. 25, the Los will help accelerate our expansion in this key several operations such as finance, administration, legal affairs, Angeles-based denim designer and retailer saw market,” said Paul Marciano, co-chairman and general affairs, human resources and information technology earnings explode co-chief executive of- into one department to be headed by a new manager, who will 76.6 percent to $11.8 ficer, in a statement. be named shortly. Sources said Mazzi would be a logical ap- million, or 27 cents a The company pointee since he is said to be one of Prada head Patrizio diluted share, best- found its way back Bertelli’s close friends and a link to Italy’s banking system. A ing Wall Street’s into the black for the pool of Italian banks — Banca Intesa, Unicredito Italiano, Banca consensus estimate nine months, posting Popolare di Lodi and Centrobanca — are guaranteeing Prada’s of 24 cents. The com- earnings of $14.7 mil- 700 million euros, or $893.7 million at current exchange, worth pany reported earn- lion, or 33 cents, of convertible bonds due next year, a deal under which the com- ings of $6.7 million, against a loss of $4.5 pany pledged 60 percent of its capital as collateral. Meanwhile, or 15 cents, in the million, or 10 cents, it has emerged that Luciano Benetton resigned from Prada’s year-ago quarter. in the same period a board nearly six months ago. He joined in June 2002 just days Total revenues year ago. before Prada was set to start its road show for an initial public spiked 18.7 percent Again, double- offering. Prada declined further comment on Benetton’s depar- to $197.8 million digit gains in sales ture and a Benetton spokesman declined comment. from $166.7 million. and licensing royal- Combined sales ties drove total rev- ● EXIT AT WILSONS: Joel Waller, chairman and ceo of Wilsons from the company’s enue up 15.5 percent The Leather Experts, will step down Jan. 31. The firm has initi- 269 stores along to $505.3 million ated a search and expects to make an announcement about suc- with its wholesale from $437.3 million. cession plans within a month. Waller, 65, has been with the com- business advanced Retail and wholesale pany and its predecessor firms for 28 years and has been ceo 17.2 percent to sales combined grew since 1983. Wilsons, which operates 453 stores in the U.S., has $183.6 million from 15.2 percent to $470.4 recently completed a series of turnaround measures aimed to $156.5 million, with million from $408.4 realign costs with revenues and help it rebound from a costly wholesale sales con- million, with the and abortive venture in the travel business dating back to 2001. tributing $51.4 million in the quarter. Retail wholesale segment contributing $123.6 million. The company reported a net loss of $57.2 million in the first half comparable-store sales rose 10.9 percent. Royalties jumped 20.7 percent to $34.8 million ended July 31, about $22.4 million of it related to inventory liqui- However, the company made its largest stride in from $28.9 million. dation, as sales slid 1.3 percent to $153.1 million. royalties, which vaulted 41.1 percent to $14.3 —Ross Tucker www.lancome.com

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Contact: Cindy Lewis, VP/Publisher (212) 649-3013 ON SALE NOW! 8 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM J.Lo’s House Don’t Cost a Thing ● Royal Growth Spurt ● Bridget’s B-Cups

Mischa Barton ZELLWEGER AND PHILLIPS BY WIREIMAGE AND PHILLIPS BY ZELLWEGER Suzy By Aileen Mehle pink, magenta and orange. Zara Mario Buatta presided as Jennifer Lopez just sold her Los Angeles Phillips master of ceremonies — as mansion for $10 million. The Beverly only he can — and Casita Hills estate that she previously called Maria Gold Medals of Honor eye® home comes with four bedrooms, seven were awarded to Lewis Ranieri, bathrooms, a projection room, a tennis the chairman of American court and a swimming pool. The idea, presumably, is Ballet Theatre; to Pfizer’s chief to start her new life on a clean slate or, as they say in financial officer, David showbiz, a tabula rasa. Shedlarz, and to Liliana and ● Renée Zellweger Federico Sada of Mexico for Queen Elizabeth II’s grandchildren are growing up their philanthropic largesse. in a big hurry. One of them, Zara Phillips, the Princess Dancing with soft pink light Royal’s daughter, was at Buckingham Palace this week Buffy Cafritz’s luncheon to celebrate washing over them were such holding hands with her boyfriend of nine months, Bettina Zilkha’s recent book, “Ultimate partygoers on the floor as Lady Mike Tindall, who was receiving the Order of the Style”? Buffy is a Washington hostess Henrietta Spencer-Churchill, British Empire, along with the rest of England’s of note and practically adored by Patty Cisneros, Marina and World Cup Team. Another grandchild, Princess Republicans and Democrats alike, Francesco Galesi, Sharon King Beatrice, daughter of the Duke of York and Sarah socially speaking. Her luncheon Hoge, Mary McFadden, Ferguson, is fast becoming the Queen’s most guests represented administrations Adrienne and Gianluigi Vittadini fashionable grandchild. The 16-year-old captured the from John Kennedy’s to George W. and on and on into the night. spotlight in a black chiffon dress over which she wore Bush’s, with Karyn Frist, wife of Senate Viva Casita Maria! a gray jacket with a ribbon belt and four-inch Majority Leader Bill Frist, leading the pack. Lunching ● burgundy high heels. It looked better than it sounds. on crab and pepper cakes, California salad and warm Renée Zellweger is shedding tears all over her ● apple crisp with politics off the table were Deeda Blair; B-cups because she has lost all those extra pounds Mischa Barton of “The O.C.,” who has just landed Capricia Marshall, who was Hillary Clinton’s social she put on for her new role in “Bridget Jones: The the role of Lois Lane in “Superman V: Superman secretary in the White House, Rima Al-Sabah, the wife Edge of Reason.” She says she misses her big Returns,” is as excited as any starlet can be. The of the Kuwaiti ambassador, and Terre Hamlisch, wife of breasts. “It was a sad day when I had to retire my movie will start shooting in Australia in February and Marvin Hamlisch. It was, believe it or not in that town, C-cup bras to the underwear drawer. I would have is scheduled to hit the screen in 2006. Everybody alive fun. kept them if I could. Believe me, I would.” She just must have heard by this time that she and Brandon ● didn’t fill them out anymore. Renée also says she Davis, the grandson of Barbara and the late billionaire Catching up with the parties: Casita Maria’s fiesta misses the attention she got from men. “Guys don’t Marvin Davis, are a thing. So if it lasts, Brandon is set at the Plaza seemed to make even the most jaded gala find the skinny look attractive.” Well, it worked for to rack up a lot of frequent flier miles next year. goer perk right up. Wolfgang and Anne Eisenhower- Audrey Hepburn, but it’s still hell on legs. ● Flottl were the honorary chairmen and Jackie Weld ● Kirsten Dunst asked Susan Sarandon her beauty Drake — along with Joanne de Guardiola, Christine Gwyneth Paltrow will have former fiancé Brad Pitt’s secrets and here’s what she told her: “I truly think that Schwarzman and Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia — were ring on her finger once again and her husband, Chris being happy makes you look good and I don’t smoke.” the dinner chairmen. All sorts of partygoers — young, Martin, says he could care less. Of course, there’s a That’s it? Whatever happened to long baths in ass’ milk? beautiful and a bit on the older side — filled the grand reason for this. Gwyneth is part of a new campaign by ● ballroom of the Plaza. They were called to dinner by a Italian jeweler Damiani, which has hired Gwynny as It’s not all spite and malice in Washington. One can rousing mariachi band and, thanks to Phillip Baloun, its new spokesperson, and Brad designs a line of always count on the trusted Old Guard to carry on and the room was beautifully transformed with tall diamond-studded platinum wedding bands for the push forward and what better example of civility than centerpieces of orchids and ostrich feathers in hot same company. WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM Liz Reports Strong Qtr. Penney’s Ullman: Wait Until Spring By Arthur Zaczkiewicz header.” He said Penney’s, based two to Bernard Arnault at LVMH By Evan Clark in Plano, Tex., will continue fo- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton NEW YORK — J.C. Penney Co.’s cusing on growth opportunities and is considered particularly NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne new chairman and chief execu- such as expanding its Internet adept at streamlining, with ex- Inc. scored solid gains in third- tive officer, Myron E. Ullman business, and that he sees the re- pertise in finance and opera- quarter earnings and sales, beat 3rd, said on Thursday that Wall tailer growing its off-mall busi- tions. Questrom described him as its projections and inched up Street will have to wait until ness by 200 stores in the next few “an outstanding retail executive.” its guidance for the full year, as spring for a detailed strategy years. In previous discussions, Ullman said that with an off- it bucked the recent trend of plan from him as investors management said it was looking mall and Internet strategy, difficult results from some of backed off Penney’s shares on to add 75 to 100 off-mall stores. Penney’s is going through an evo- the industry’s major main- the first day of trading after he In trading Thursday, the lution. He said he took the job stream firms. was named to succeed Allen stock closed down 5.4 percent because of growth opportunities Net income for the quarter Questrom on Dec. 1. to $35.35. The 52-week high is and the prospect of making jumped 14 percent to $111.6 Vanessa Castagna, chairman $41.50, and the low is $22.29. Penney’s “a star” in the industry. million, or $1.03 a diluted and ceo of Penney’s stores, cata- Regarding the selection of Deborah Weinswig, equity an- share, from year-ago earnings Paul logue and Internet, who was Ullman over Castagna, who alyst with Citigroup Smith of $97.9 million, or 89 cents. Charron passed over for Questrom’s job, could not be reached for com- Barney, said in a research note Sales for the 13 weeks ended was not on a conference call ment, Questrom said: “This is Wednesday night that “after re- Oct. 2 increased 11.3 percent to with Ullman and Questrom. It is obviously a difficult decision covering from our initial shock, $1.31 billion from $1.17 billion a year ago. believed that she is likely to that the board has spent a lot of we are encouraged by [Penney’s] Despite the strong results, investors traded shares of the firm leave the company. A person time on, and from a business announcement that [Ullman] down 30 cents, or 0.7 percent, to close at $40.15 on the New York knowledgeable about the retail- point of view it couldn’t have will succeed Questrom.” Stock Exchange Thursday. er said Castagna, considered to been a better decision.’’ Emanuel Weintraub, of the con- For the quarter, Claiborne outstripped its projections for be the company’s chief mer- Questrom, 64, expressed dis- sulting firm that bears his name earnings of $1 to $1.02 a share on a 9 to 10 percent rise in sales. chant, “did not react well” to appointment that Castagna was said he thinks Penney “did the Jones Apparel Group this week reported third-quarter earnings Ullman’s appointment. not picked, but said in an “era of right thing” by tapping Ullman. that were below initial estimates, while Kellwood Co. recently Ullman, 57, said during the Sarbanes-Oxley,” when greater “Vanessa Castagna has a warned it would also miss plan for its third quarter, ending this conference call that “it’s day two demands are being placed on great future,” Weintraub said. week. Much of the weakness was attributed to high gas prices on the job” for him, and that it’s high-level managers, Penney’s “If Mr. [Edward] Lampert [chair- and a lackluster consumer. “fair to say that by mid-spring I board needed someone with man of Kmart Holdings Inc.] “Our attitude is that we run into these sorts of things pretty should have a point of view that strong ceo experience. The could get her number, now that much every quarter,” said chairman and chief executive officer will give me a chance to put my Sarbanes-Oxley bill was passed would be great. Sears would Paul Charron on a conference call. “We have seen deteriorating initial impressions behind, and by Congress in 2002 to hold sen- also be a good fit for her.” retail comps over the last few months. This is not unusual, as we start to deal with reality.” ior executives more accountable One source told WWD have watched comp sales for our retail customer move back and Questrom, using a baseball for their actions. Castagna had looked at a job at fourth, up and down, for many years.” analogy to describe Penney’s Ullman is a former co-chair- Kohl’s. It was unclear if that was Charron, who has headed the firm for more than a decade, turnaround since he took over in man and co-ceo of Macy’s as well still on the table. has stressed the importance of stability through a balanced port- September 2000, said it was “in as the DFS chain of duty-free and Questrom’s five-year contract folio, which now runs from contemporary brands such as Juicy the seventh inning of a double- retail shops. He also was number was to expire in September 2005. Couture, chains such as Lucky Brand and Mexx and categories including accessories and licensed home goods. Urban brand Enyce, Claiborne’s most recent acquisition, added sales of $34 million to the quarter. Jennifer Black, fashion and retail analyst at Jennifer Black & Associates, said Claiborne has been in the diversification Muller Principals Reach an Agreement process longer than most other companies. “It’s starting to really pay off for them and I think we’re just By Robert Murphy Meanwhile, Sirmakes was accused of employing seeing the beginning of that,” Black said. clandestine workers from Armenia. Operating profits in the firm’s wholesale apparel business PARIS — Watchmaker Franck Muller and his busi- In turn, Jean-Claude Biver, a member of slid 2.6 percent to $120.8 million in the quarter on a 5.9 percent ness partner Vartan Sirmakes have come to terms Swatch Group’s management board, announced increase in sales to $856.7 million. The reduction in operating after one of the most acrimonious brawls ever to he would take a one-year sabbatical to help profits was attributed in part to a falloff in profits in the core do- shake the staid Swiss timepiece industry. Muller sort out his affairs. Muller sought the dis- mestic Liz Claiborne business, which weathered a 17.4 percent In a statement last week, the two said they solution of the company in his lawsuit. sales decrease. The brand, which for spring was consolidated resolved their differences and had withdrawn dual According to the terms of their reconciliation, under one master label and has undergone severe cutbacks over legal complaints filed last year in a Geneva court. Sirmakes will continue to run the firm, which the last year, is expected to post a fourth-quarter sales increase, Muller gave his name to the luxury timepiece also controls the Pierre Kunz and ECW brands; the company said. and jewelry firm he cofounded with Sirmakes in Muller will become a consultant. In the firm’s wholesale busi- 1991. The combination of his creative skills and The statement said Sirmakes felt “affection ness, brands with a somewhat Sirmakes’ management helped build Franck and esteem [for Muller’s] creative qualities,” more modern styling and posi- Muller into one of the hottest brands of the late while Muller “recognized the worth and loyalty tioning, such as DKNY jeans Nineties, known for oversized, slightly vintage of his partner and thanks him for his excellent and Axcess, have outperformed timepieces in vibrant colors. management.” more traditionally styled But the company’s future seemed questionable “This agreement will allow the group to con- names. last year when the two men had a bitter falling out. tinue its considerable growth thanks to a In the company’s own stores, Accusations were brandished, including alle- renewed serenity,” the statement added. operating profits advanced 5.5 gations of fraud, and Muller’s uncle was arrested The company employs some 500 people and has percent to $10.8 million, while on charges of an alleged counterfeiting scheme. annual production of more than 50,000 watches. sales shot ahead 20 percent to $261 million. The Lucky Brand business saw comps increase 19 percent, while Mexx Europe’s comps were up 11 percent. Retail represents about 20 per- Gucci Settles Counterfeit Complaint cent of the firm’s business. Black said the company, By Ross Tucker Fashion Scoops column a week earlier in the July which is traditionally a manu- 21 issue. facturer, could grow the retail NEW YORK — Gucci America Inc. reached a set- According to the company’s site, diva-level portion of the business to 35 to tlement with a retailer renting and selling knock- members have access to the most expensive bags, 40 percent of overall sales over off Gucci handbags through its Web site. as well as access to any of its two lower-priced col- the next few years. Specialty re- According to an order of dismissal filed by lections. The employee ordered a Gucci bag that tailers have long been on the judge Victor Marrero of the U.S. District Court, upon delivery proved to be a counterfeit. firm’s acquisition wish list. Southern District of New York, on Oct. 26, Gucci Gucci sought redress on eight counts, includ- Claiborne acquired the Mexx and Hollywood, Fla.-based Bag Borrow or Steal ing trademark counterfeiting, trademark in- chain in May 2001. Inc. reached a settlement agreement on Oct. 6. fringement and unfair trade practices. The luxu- For the nine months, earn- Also named in the dismissal were Bag Borrow or ry giant also claimed to have sustained damages ings climbed 11.8 percent to Steal executive officers Gregory Pippo and Lloyd in excess of $1 million. The company asked for a $230.9 million, or $2.10 a dilut- Lapidus. permanent injunction and an unspecified ed share. Sales picked up 7 per- Details of the settlement were not available and amount in damages. cent to $3.44 billion. both parties declined to comment on the matter. The case marks the second such settlement A spring Claiborne also upped its According to Gucci’s original complaint, filed Gucci has reached with an Internet retailer this look from guidance slightly for the full Sept. 24, Bag Borrow or Steal allows subscribers month. Gucci filed an identical eight-count indict- Ellen Tracy, year, calling for earnings per to its Web site, Bagborroworsteal.com, to rent de- ment on July 30 against a man named Frank share of $2.81 to $2.84, com- signer handbags for a monthly fee. Mirable who it claimed was selling counterfeit one of Liz pared with previous estimates Background information in the complaint said Gucci handbags on eBay. Again, Gucci claimed it Claiborne's of $2.79 to $2.83. Sales for 2004 a Gucci employee paid $99.95 to enroll in the com- had sustained damages of more than $1 million bridge are slated for a 7.5 to 8 percent pany’s “Diva Membership,” the company’s highest because of the activity. Judge George B. Daniels brands. increase. subscriber level, on July 28, 2004. Coincidentally, issued an order of dismissal on Oct. 4 after being WWD had profiled Bagborroworsteal.com in its informed of the settlement. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 American Beauty Ella Moss’ Pamella Protzel cut some polished looks for weekend getaways…Jenni Kayne riffed on American sportswear…Ashley Paige went “Sweet Home Alabama”…and Coco Kliks whirled through the circle-skirted Fifties.

Ella Moss: Pamella Protzel showed a solid collection for spring that featured soft, tissue-thin jersey ready to be Jenni Kayne tossed into a weekend bag. The clothes, in fact, evoked thoughts of sunny seaside resorts, as devotees Jessica Capshaw, Marsha Thomason, Rashida Jones and her sister Kidada Nash looked on from the front row. The three-year-old line is known for its chic and easy looks, but this time around, Protzel demonstrated a little more polish and sophistication as she sent out a series of long, backless gowns, fluttery tops and a bathing suit with a metal ring detail. She exercised her penchant for color by blocking peach, black and coral panels in Rudi Gernreich-styled minidresses, and striped a group of flirty dresses in red, canary and cocoa. A mosaic print cut in wrap tops and dresses did suggest Diane von Furstenberg a bit too much, but Protzel still remains among the best of the new crop of jersey girls.

Jenni Kayne: Who needs a celebrity wrangler when you can just call your friends — Robert Downey Jr., Anthony Kiedis, Rose McGowan, Lara Flynn Boyle, Aaron Eckhart, etc. — to fill the front row? All the star hullabaloo aside, however, when the lights went up, all attention was on Jenni Kayne’s collection that riffed on crisp, American sportiness with a little bit of shimmer and sparkle. As Boyle put it, “She takes a classic ensemble and jazzes it up.” Soft cashmere hoodies looked both cozy and elegant over a lace and sequin skirt while slouchy white cotton pants were paired with a ribbon-tied silver leather jacket. And although the ill-fitting, bulbous series of white organza tops and dresses didn’t fit in with the otherwise focused — but too long — lineup, Kayne has definitely matured, refining her sometimes too-glitzy look.

Ashley Paige: For spring, Ashley Paige drew inspiration from Seventies Southern girls, Alabama beaches and Dolly Parton hair, sending out fun, sexy swimwear and sportswear that spoke to everyone’s inner Daisy Duke — remember her in that bikini in the opening credits of “The Dukes of Hazzard”? While her signature hand-crocheted triangle-top hipster bikinis haven’t changed much, the designer did try her hand at Lycra-infused bikinis for the first time with bra-style underwire tops that had a Forties appeal and bottoms with flirty microskirts attached. Like her knits, los they hugged in all the right places with nary a angeles wrinkle or sag in the fabric. And, in a move to expand her reach beyond the boutique swim area, she included more sportswear offerings, such as the sassy ruffled tube dresses and feminine and flirty sweaters. The long skirt with a wide ruffle at the hem, however, looked a bit heavy, and the full-length crocheted dress looked more like a tangled fishnet.

Coco Kliks: State fairs, corn on the cob and the anticipation of prom night — all elements of the wide-eyed wonder of Fifties America — was the setting at Coco Kliks for spring. The designer sent out an upbeat presentation of whimsical prints and candy-colored circle skirts that were refreshing takes on that era. Eyelet trims on HotPants and bustiers sweetened up otherwise sexy pieces, and prints of hot-air balloons and big pink polkadots made simple strapless dresses look fresh and playful. Blazers and trousers were well tailored and adorned with contrasting stitching and floral appliqués, which are signature Kliks elements. The designer has clearly evolved with her sophomore effort, proving that she can put together wearable clothing that moved beyond the costume-y elements of her first collection. However, a few distracting ▲ Ella Moss details remained, such as the metallic lace cutouts on sharply tailored trousers and flashy dresses. WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM

Gen Art: Gen Art gave a Ashley party on Wednesday Yoko Paige night, complete with an Ono airplane hangar venue, a fire marshal cracking the occupancy whip and, of course, a fresh-faced group of designers. Neely Shearer and Gordon Morikawa opened with Issho, which means “together” in Japanese. The duo teamed silk with lots of patterns — chevrons, circles and abstract animal motifs. There was nothing groundbreaking here, but it was definitely pretty, Fashion Scoops especially the taupe-and- HATS OFF TO YOKO: Tracey Ross’ yellow flutter-sleeve top eponymous West Hollywood shop gets and skirt. its fill of the notorious and legendary. Desanka’s Desa Fasiska After all, Courtney Love was in Thursday took a more adventurous morning to pick up a pair of Ross’ approach by dropping the motorcycle boots and a white Chloé waists on great silk and Maryam dress she’ll wear at her Wiltern concert gauze dresses and sending in L.A. Saturday night. But a drop in Nassirzadeh out rompers with bronze later that day by Yoko Ono had the cool piping and high-waisted and collected staff giddy. Although her jeans. Maryam son, Sean, is a regular, it took something Nassirzadeh, meanwhile, very rare to get Ono inside: A vintage sandwiched cotton, silk poster printed “War is Over…If you want and gauzy organza it. Love and Peace John & Yoko” that together and then quilted Ross had just placed in the window. Ono it all. On paper, this might spent more than an hour there, engaged sound scary, but in reality, in one of her well-known shopping and it was interesting sprees. She scooped up Carlos Souza’s wearable. The best in black diamond Maltese cross ring, Loree show: a rose-hued short- Rodkin’s diamond “F**k You” ring, a sleeved jacket worn with a DSquared jacket, and Ross’ motorcycle printed lime silk camisole boots, among many, many other things. and beige cuffed shorts. She even threw on her tab a Eugenia Kim The crowd favorite was hat that starlet Brittany Murphy wanted. Todd Magill’s Ono only wears black, so when Murphy sophisticated Wyeth. A willingly offered it and took the brown former partner in the Los instead, Ono — who also passed out Feliz branch of Steinberg peace pins to all on hand — showed her & Sons and an Iceberg appreciation in kind. and Missoni alum, Magill knows how to make the SIR PAUL OUT WEST: Wednesday’s red seemingly traditional glow from the full lunar eclipse provided distinctive. He the perfect backdrop for Sir Paul Smith, deconstructed a classic in Los Angeles for a Neiman Marcus- cardigan, for example, hosted cocktail party and fashion show at adding insets of floral- the Chateau Marmont in Hollywood. And printed silk, and then Desanka the London designer says a store here is livened up a pretty silk definitely in the stars. “We’re looking to dress with a pleated bodice and raw hem. And open here in a year’s time,” said Smith, for an Edwardian girl gone glad, see Claire La in his signature slim dark suit and Faye, who at times went too literal with the tousled hair. “We’re looking at Melrose theme, but hit her stride with the gold, cream because we like the area.” For Smith, it and brown minidress with a corseted back. would be the realization of a long-held The accessories crew offered the finishing dream to open a store in America — he’s accoutrements, including Christie Martin’s hand- been looking in New York for the last painted silver jewelry and Kim White’s cute several years, with no success. The

▲ handbags created from vintage car upholstery. Coco Kliks problem is, Smith likes to own his real estate (as he does in London and Milan), not rent it. Clever knight.

In what has become a clear PARTY POLITICS: When New York’s fashion trope, jersey was Parsons School of Design unveiled its Jersey Girls exploited to its fullest this Voting Booth Project on Wednesday night, season. Karanina designers for which a group of artists and designers Nina Firestone and Kara Smith, for example, took a minor customized polling machines recovered departure from their usual fare of sexy tops for the single girl, from a Florida scrap heap by hotelier and showed well-cut, Seventies-inspired jersey dresses in Andre Balazs, there was one design that peacock blues and lemon yellows, a welcome change from the had some guests a little nervous — a printed halters and bubble-gum bandanna tops of previous silver briefcase in the back of the room, seasons. In Rachel Pally’s sophomore show, she sent out jersey in emitting a loud ticking noise. subtle bird prints over bright yellow, green and orange dresses. “I wanted people to pay attention,” Somehow, it worked. And Iron designer Leejay Mintz went with a said its creator, Yeohlee Teng, who for kaleidoscope of candy-colored prints on jersey. His cowlneck Cesar some reason feels that people might not minis and tented halter tops, however, were unoriginal. de la Heike have heard much about a certain Meanwhile, Lady Enyce design director Simone Berry Parra Karanina Jarick election coming up next week. “If referenced jet-set destinations such as Miami, St. Tropez and everybody was paying attention, they the Hamptons for spring, and featured candy-color Ts, bold retro survivors washed ashore on the California coast as they came might see what’s going on. The coverage floral-print blouses and ruffled wrap dresses. Overall, Berry down the runway in ruched net dresses and pirate tops that on television has been very selective, no provided a focused lineup of what Lady Enyce does best — easy looked unkempt and costume-y. Barry should have stuck to the matter what channel you’re watching, pieces for the bronzed babe who plans her trips to the world’s simple and easy pieces that were actually wearable, such as and I watch a lot of them — CNN, NY1 sunniest and sexiest spots. Shakti designer Jacquelyne Love, the halterneck dresses in black and white. Cesar de la Parra (a and Fox.” who happens to be the wife of The Beach Boys’ Mike Love, also former staffer at Bob Mackie and Nolan Miller) couldn’t make The booths were auctioned later that went sexy and sunny this season. She showed ocean-blue capris up his mind for his runway debut, as he sent out an unfocused evening to benefit Parsons and Declare and sunset-hued bikini tops that didn’t exactly merit a runway collection of eveningwear that referenced everything from Yourself, where the big hit of the presentation, but there were some standout pieces, such as the “The Valley of the Dolls” to contemporary minimalism. And evening wasn’t a ticking briefcase, but sunshine yellow poplin pantsuit paired with a matching New York-based designer Heike Jarick, who can be either hit or rather a flammable voting booth made of embroidered bustier or her sexy jersey romper with a playful miss, couldn’t quite pull it off this time around. The boleros, bits of wood splints and rice paper by chiffon skirt. Love’s wares may not be groundbreaking, but there kimonos and Victorian-styled jackets were beautifully David Rockwell’s Rockwell Group, called were definitely a few good vibrations. constructed, but they didn’t have enough impact to balance out “Playing with Fire.” It sold for $6,000 Elsewhere, Maggie Barry’s models looked like shipwrecked the awkward crinkled organza and silk jersey dresses and tops. to Constitutional collector Norman Lear. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DONATO SARDELLA GIANNONI AND DONATO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 The Beauty Report Lancôme: What’s in Store for First U.S. Concept Door

NEW YORK — Lancôme is bringing its fledgling retail experience to the U.S. with the opening of its first concept store here. The venerable cosmetics brand opened its first U.S. Lancôme con- cept boutique, its fourth worldwide, this week at the Short Hills Mall in northern New Jersey. The first of the stores opened in Hong Kong last November; a second Hong Kong location opened in March and a third store opened in Shanghai in June. The New Jersey location is the first in a series of freestanding Lancôme stores planned for the U.S., said Edgar Huber, president of the Luxury Products Division of L’Oréal USA. But the brand isn’t intending to have a store on every corner. While a Manhattan outpost will open during the first half of 2005, said Huber, that’s it for a while. He declined to outline plans for additional stores, noting that where and when other boutiques will open will depend on the performances of the Short Hills and later the Manhattan doors. Huber emphasized that the brand’s con- cept stores aren’t meant to compete with the department and specialty stores now carrying Lancôme. “We do not expect to cannibalize customers from existing outlets of the brand,” he said. Speaking specifically of the Short Hills door, he said, “We think we will attract new consumers, those who aren’t currently department store shoppers — which will increase our customer base.” The location’s prox- imity to Manhattan, he added, will allow Lancôme execs to make fre- quent visits. While none of the executives would comment on projected first-year volume for the store, industry sources estimated that it would generate retail sales in excess of $1.5 million. “The store will allow us to offer skin care serv- ices that it’s not possible to offer at a department store counter,” continued Huber. “And this store — and the others which will follow — allows us to delve into our customers’ shopping habits more deeply, which will help us as we continue to develop products.” It’s a strategy that several other L’Oréal brands also are exploring. L’Oréal opened a store, dubbed the Living Lab, at Los Angeles’ Beverly Center in late September, and Biotherm will open its first U.S. store at the beginning of November at the Glendale Galleria in California. The 1,500-square-foot Lancôme store in Short Hills is broken down into three zones: one each for fragrance, skin care and color cosmetics, explained Dalia Chammas, senior vice president and general manager of Lancôme. Like its sister stores in Asia, its design was created by Clockwise from top left: The brand’s signature rose store designer Jean-Marie Massaud and architect Daniel Pouzet. detail is carried through the design; the store’s The skin care area is set in an alcove that allows for semiprivate entrance; a color display; the fragrance area; part of consultations. Intended to resemble a comfortable living room, it the skin care zone. includes a curved, plush sofa and a bar-like seating area, where con- sultants will perform brow shaping. A key feature in this zone is the brand’s high tech Skin Diagnos Expert, a com- puterized wand that analyzes skin type and pro- vides in-depth recommendations. The tool meas- ures wrinkle depth, sebum quantity, hydration levels and skin firmness, and provides details about each using a high tech camera. Consultants, using that data, then make product recommendations to clients. As well, Lancôme and its consulting dermatol- ogist, Tina Alster, have put together a slate of salon-style skin care services to be performed in the store, said Odile Roujol, deputy general man-

ager and senior vice president of marketing for JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY Lancôme. The menu includes a 45-minute micro- dermabrasion treatment for $125 and a $75 gly- grances is showcased nearby, in a Lucite-covered colic peel treatment, as well as two different shelving unit directly in front of the sphere. types of facials and brow shaping. With every The signature Lancôme rose and the brand’s service, Lancôme will offer a complimentary pale gray signature color are incorporated in each makeup application. All services except brow aspect of the design, said Renee Viola, vice presi- shaping will be performed in a private room in dent of store design for Lancôme. Elegant glass tile the back area of the boutique. floors mix with gray plexiglass counters, mother-of- The makeup area is delineated by large, stain- pearl shaded walls and padded white cabinets, less steel workstations with mirrors simulating with the signature rose included in furniture uphol- day, evening and office lighting. In addition to stery and on cabinets and counters. “For the last 10 supplies for the brand’s professional makeup years or so, modern has meant minimal,” said Viola. artists, there are sets of brushes and colors at “This design, while modern, has a great deal of each station so that clients can try to re-create detailing — it’s a modern interpretation of luxury.” the looks themselves while in-store. Nearby, the Lancôme also is instituting a customer loyalty brand’s brow design stations are set up; as with program in the boutique. For every $500 spent, the makeup area, teaching brow maintenance is customers will receive a $50 credit toward serv- part of the package, so supplies are set up for ices or products. clients to “follow along” with the pros. There are The counter design also is being adapted for the also “grab and go” spots — assisted self-service brand’s department store doors. As reported, the shopping areas where clients can quickly pur- first department store interpretation of the look chase popular Lancôme products. was unveiled at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship The fragrance zone is a futuristic sphere, its on Oct. 12 and at Macy’s Herald Square flagship on area formed by a Lucite unit surrounded by net- Oct. 17. The brand’s department store counters at ting that hangs from the ceiling. Clients “experi- Short Hills — Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s — also ence” the fragrance by sticking their nose into opened renovated counters this week. the sphere. Lancôme’s full complement of fra- — Julie Naughton WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 13

WWW.WWD.COM New Lauder Lineup: Shifts Demsey, Bousquet-Chavanne Continued from page one new acquisition possibilities and growth plans for Estée Lauder, as well as for MAC, Aramis, and the Designer Fragrances Group, whose brands include Donna Karan Cosmetics, Tommy Hilfiger, Kate Spade and Michael Kors. Meanwhile, Demsey will continue the brand reju- venation process begun by Bousquet-Chavanne. “I’m very excited about the broadening of my respon- sibilities within the Estée Lauder Cos.,” Bousquet- Chavanne said Thursday, calling three years of leading Lauder’s day-to-day operations “an incredible adven- ture.” Going forward, he added, “the focus of my energy will be on achieving William [Lauder]’s vision of getting us to be a $10 billion company.” The company reported net sales of $5.79 billion for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2004; while Lauder does not break out sales figures of individual brands, industry sources estimated that the Lauder brand is approaching $2 billion in retail sales, while MAC is said to be in the neighborhood of $500 million in retail sales. A successor for Demsey at MAC has not yet been named, although that announcement is expected within the next few weeks. In an exclusive telephone interview with WWD from Asia on Thursday, William Lauder, the recently minted Estée Lauder chief executive officer, explained that relieving Bousquet-Chavanne of day-to-day responsibil- ities of running the Lauder division “will allow Patrick to spend more time on the more strategic issues.” Asked what issues he has in mind, Lauder said the Patrick Bousquet- company has “a tremendous opportunity in the fra- Chavanne, William grance world,” particularly overseas. Lauder pointed Lauder, Sean “P. out that two of the largest fragrance markets are Europe, Diddy” Combs and where 60 percent of the beauty business is made up of John Demsey. fragrance, and travel retail, where the same ratio holds. PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER Lauder also said the new dynamic will give Bousquet-Chavanne a different perspective on the Lauder brand, since he will be viewing it from a more Patrick has done an exceptional job. I want John to take [the elevated vantage point. As well, he praised the job that “ Bousquet-Chavanne has done in restoring the luster of Lauder brand] to the next level. the Lauder brand. “Patrick has done an exceptional ” — William Lauder job,” he said, while also lauding Demsey’s obvious skills and abilities. “I want John to take it to the next level.” until joining MAC Cosmetics in April 1998 first as gener- those in the European market, he said. As well, he will Lauder said, “The brand continues to evolve in the al manager and then as president, had been senior vice examine regional dynamics around the globe, looking clarity of its message and communication. What the president of sales and education for the Estée Lauder at both regional-only products and their prospects for brand needs to do is to put all the disparate elements brand. Demsey spent seven years at the Lauder brand, globalization. together. It is one of the leading fragrance brands. It’s first signing on in 1991 as vice president and West Coast And, while Bousquet-Chavanne would not comment one of the leading treatment brands. It’s one of the lead- field sales manager. His rise through the ranks was on specifics, he did hint that acquisitions could be part ing makeup brands. quick — a 1992 appointment to group vice president, of the company’s strategy to grow the Estée Lauder Cos. “Add it all up,” he continued, “and it’s one of the sales, for the West Coast; a 1993 promotion to senior vice in the short term. “Much of the growth of the organiza- leading brands altogether. The question is how to add president of sales for the brand, and a 1995 move that tion [in the last several years] has been internal,” he up these elements to push the homogeneity of the brand added education responsibilities to his duty list. said. “The company has done an amazing job of doing and propel it forward.” After the Lauder Cos. completed its purchase of MAC this, but to get to a $10 billion level, we will also need to Lauder indicated that a new president will be named in 1998, Demsey moved to MAC to help spearhead its look at other areas.” for MAC within a few weeks, and said that executive also growth within the Lauder organization. Prior to joining Bousquet-Chavanne joined the Lauder brand in 2001 will oversee the development of the Sean John brand, Estée Lauder, Demsey was vice president of sales for with a mandate of continuing to drive the brand’s evo- which will be distributed by the Aramis and Designer Borghese, Alexandra de Markoff and Lancaster cosmet- lution process. Under his direction, the brand has made Fragrances Group. A general manager for the Sean John ics. Earlier in his career, he held executive positions a number of strides, including signing models Carolyn division also is expected to be named. with both Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. Murphy and Liya Kebede to supplant Elizabeth Hurley Bousquet-Chavanne called Demsey “the perfect exec- In his new role, Demsey’s first duty will be to “relearn in advertising efforts; revamping packaging and count- utive to continue Estée Lauder’s growth plan,” noting the Estée Lauder business, and to understand from an er designs; building on the brand’s strengths in skin that at MAC, Demsey has exhibited “a tremendous fash- Estée Lauder perspective the global dynamics and the care and color cosmetics, and launching a powerhouse ion sensibility” as well as an ability to grow the brand on opportunities that this brand has before it.” He vowed to fragrance masterbrand, Beyond Paradise. a global basis. MAC is currently available in 45 countries. look at the brand with “fresh eyes — with a sense of the Demsey’s prowess in building a multichannel, multi- “Lauder is very well positioned in Europe and Asia, as heritage of the brand, and where it’s going.” And, he national, financially driven distribution network at well as in the U.S.,” said Bousquet-Chavanne. “As such, added, “there will be a transition period [between his MAC will come in handy as the Estée Lauder brand’s the brand requires a global thinker at the helm. And John two roles] as I have a responsibility to make sure that freshening efforts continue. Over the past several years, not only has that ability, he has a great entrepreneurial transition is done respectfully and responsibly.” the Lauder brand has attempted to ratchet down the spirit.” He also noted that this move “indicates William’s Once that transition is complete, Bousquet- age of its core consumer a bit, in particular with an aim commitment to growth for this organization.” Chavanne will closely examine global channel diversi- of increasing the brand’s relevance among consumers In fact, the move is a return to roots for Demsey, who, fication opportunities for the company, particularly in the 25- to 35-year-old age bracket. Alberto-Culver Net Rises, Despite Charges By Ross Tucker tax charge related to the buyback of $200 million of its during the fourth quarter, a charge related to the com- 8.25 percent senior notes. Sales for the period jumped pany’s move to one class of common stock and a gain re- NEW YORK — Strong sales counteracted several ex- 13.2 percent to $850.7 million from $751.6 million. alized on the sale of its Indola European business. traordinary charges affecting Alberto-Culver’s fourth- Sales in the company’s consumer products segment “Selling our Indola business, which had been los- quarter and year-end results. were led by the Alberto VO5, St. Ives and TRESemmé ing some money for us over the years and was noncore For the three months ended Sept. 30, the Menlo product lines, said Howard Bernick, president and to our level of expertise, I think was an excellent Park, Ill.-based personal care products manufacturer chief executive officer, in a statement. idea,” said Bernick during the company conference saw earnings rise 4.9 percent to $48 million, or 52 Charges had a greater effect on year-end results, call. “And, of course, being in a position to pay off that cents, short of the 58 cents Wall Street analysts expect- sinking earnings 12.6 percent to $141.8 million, or debt early to give us additional funding to invest in ed. Comparatively, the company reported earnings of $1.54, compared with earnings of $162.2 million, or our business in 2005, through savings and reduced in- $45.7 million, or 51 cents, in the same period a year $1.80, in 2003. Sales rose 12.7 percent to $3.26 billion terest expense, is also very positive.” ago. Currency exchange translations had a negative from $2.89 billion. According to Bernick, the company increased fund- 2.1 percent impact on fourth-quarter results. The company said several events throughout the year ing for advertising and marketing by 20 percent to Further hampering results was a $12.6 million pre- affected results, including the early debt redemption $254 million, compared with $212 million in 2003. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004

The Beauty Report WWW.WWD.COM Cover Girl, Past and Present Max Factor’s Silver-Screen Cameo NEW YORK — With groovy, wall-sized images of By Molly Prior Cybill Shepherd and Cheryl Tiegs beaming out Upcoming Cover over a light-filled downtown loft, Cover Girl took Girl launches. NEW YORK — In a move intended to give its beauty history the beauty press for a walk down makeup memory and innovations top billing, Max Factor has signed a licens- lane this week. Not surprisingly, the history-stud- ing agreement with the upcoming film “The Aviator,” due in ded stroll just happened to wind up at a display fo- theaters this December. The agreement allows Max Factor cused on two upcoming products and an entirely to use images from the movie in its advertising and promo- new in-store look. tional material. Partnering with the Smithsonian and trend ex- The Miramax picture, directed by Martin Scorsese, stars pert Michael Kucmeroski, the Cover Girl team Leonardo DiCaprio as the billionaire aviator and movie pro- pulled together an impressive array of artifacts and ducer Howard Hughes, along with a cast of leading ladies, images from the last 50 years. Amid curated vi- including Cate Blanchett as Katharine Hepburn, Kate Beck- gnettes of furniture, tchotchkes and ad visuals insale as Ava Gardner and Gwen Stefani as Jean Harlow. arranged by decade, the “House of Beauty” installa- The Procter & Gamble beauty brand also recruited the tion traced the history of the brand’s iconic “clean film’s chief makeup artist Morag Ross to its Max Factor makeup” philosophy. (Note to beauty-trivia buffs: Movie Make-up Artist Team. Ross said she dug through the It started with Procter & Gamble’s incorpo- Max Factor archives to replicate glamorous retro looks for ration of foundation pigments into its the film, spanning the Twenties through the Forties. flagship Noxzema skin cream.) Ross’ desire to capture the precise physical characteris- Cover Girl’s near-term future, tics of these starlets, who on the silver screen appeared in however, will include the launches JOHN AQUINO BY MITRA; SIMS AND MARTIN ROBERT COVER GIRL PHOTO BY black and white, prompted her to take exacting measures, of TruBlend Pressed Powder and ics, so we can really take advan- such as spray-painting freckles all over Blanchett’s back Outlast Liquid Makeup, both of tage of that.” and arms to mimic the look of the red-headed Hepburn. which are slated to hit the market Cover Girl will support both “The historical personalities in the film are actresses that in January. The wall unit, de- items with print advertising, Max Factor himself worked on during Hollywood’s golden scribed as an “overhaul” by Anne breaking in February books, as era,” said Anne Martin, vice president, global cosmetics and Martin, vice president of global well as television. While Molly beauty marketing for P&G. cosmetics and beauty marketing Molly Sims Sims will represent the pressed In fact, P&G’s archives credit Max Factor himself with for P&G, will also be unveiled na- and Anne powder, Elsa Benitez will be the dying Jean Harlow’s black hair platinum blonde, a make- tionally at the start of the year. face of the liquid makeup. over that is said to have catapulted her career in film. Martin The new pressed powder, The company does not break National print and television ads will break in January, which will retail for $7, borrows out figures, but industry sources es- featuring Ross and visuals from “The Aviator.” heavily from TruBlend Liquid timate Cover Girl is looking to do a Max Factor will support those efforts with in- Makeup’s “true to you” shade-matching combined first-year retail volume of $60 store promotional displays, noted Martin. technology. According to the company, just six million for the two items. The ads will spotlight two new Max Factor prod- shades of the sheer, natural-finish powder match- Also on deck for the brand is a new retail mer- ucts, Lash Lift mascara and Colour Perfection lip- es 97 percent of all skin tones. chandising unit. According to Martin, the last stick. According to P&G consumer research, Following on the heels of Outlast All-Day major in-store revamp for the brand was put in curling, volumizing and lengthening Lipcolor and Outlast Smoothwear Lipcolor, place in 2001. While that retooling involved the in- aren’t covering all the bases when it Outlast Liquid Makeup breaks fresh ground for corporation of cool, warm and neutral color-typing comes to mascara. An overwhelming the brand. Billed as the first-ever two-step founda- and “Tiny Tries” low-cost sampling, the new wall majority of women, 75 percent in fact, tion, it includes a “base coat” and a “color top- unit is even more shopper-friendly. Among the want a mascara that gives their eyes a coat.” The base coat, which functions as a primer highlights: clearly marked, zoned areas for “face,” wide-awake look, explained Dr. Gillian of sorts by evening out skin tone and texture, also “color” and “eyes”; the uncarding of several key Briggs, senior scientist of P&G Cos- shields the skin from UV ray damage through the products — including liquid foundation — for eas- metics, which is why Max Factor has incorporation of an SPF 14-level sunscreen. The ier shade selection, and the addition of miniature added “lift” to the product benefits list. color topcoat, which emulsifies on contact with versions of key advertising visuals so shoppers can Briggs warned that some volumizing the skin, is transfer-resistant and meant to stay connect the mental dots between the products mascaras are heavy and, therefore, color-true for hours. The product will retail for they see in print and on TV and what’s on offer cause lashes to droop, making eyes $8.99 and is available in 15 shades. right in front of them. look tired. Curling lashes, either with Despite the two-step process, Martin said the “The shopper is boss,” said Martin, “but she’s an eyelash curler or a curling new product is, in fact, a time-saver. “It’s actually just bombarded with products. She says, ‘I get to mascara, can visibly short- meant to provide an easier way to get a natural look the store, there are thousands of shopkeeping en lashes, undermining a that lasts all day,” she said. “We know women al- units, and I need help sorting my way through.’ So vibrant look as well, said ready put on different products anyway. So now she we heard her loud and clear. Briggs. can get all-in-one moisturizer, primer and pore “We’re all about ‘easy, breezy, beautiful,’” Lash Lift relies on minimizer. And with the nozzle right next to that, added Martin, referencing Cover Girl’s famous slo- conditioners said to lift she can add color. gan. “So it’s important that we offer a fun shop- the lash an average of The latest from Max Factor: Lash Lift “That’s the beauty of a company like P&G,” added ping experience.” 50 percent. A flexible Martin. “We’re experts in both skin care and cosmet- — Dana Wood and Colour Perfection. polymer — borrowed from fellow P&G brand Pantene — then holds the lashes, keeping them in place all day, explained Briggs. The com- pany said its clinical tests showed Lash Lift raised lashes up Fragrance Week Rolls On to 30 degrees. Lash Lift, which will be available in January for a suggest- NEW YORK — All aboard for the perfume counter. ed retail price of $6.50, marks the latest addition to Max Fac- In support of the second Fragrance Week this tor’s mascara portfolio — 2000 Calorie, Lashfinity and Stretch year — the one without the FiFis — a double- & Separate. decker bus has been wheeling around Man- Max Factor will also introduce Colour Perfection lipstick hattan, chauffeuring scent lovers to participating for the new year, replacing Lasting Colour lipstick, which is retailers throughout the city. being phased out. And that’s just a piece of Fragrance Week action. Briggs explained that the oil in most lipsticks causes Other activities have included fragrance personali- DAN D’ERRICO PHOTO BY color to fade and feather. Max Factor said it has solved those The Fragrance Week double-decker bus. ty typing at the Time Warner Center, supported by makeup woes with a new gel-based formula. The micro-lay- suppliers including Drom, Symrise, Givaudan and The calendar shift has found a true fan in ers of pigments within the formula prevent fading, said Firmenich; an International Flavors & Fragrances Laurice Rahme, founder of Bond No. 9, which Briggs, adding that when a kiss or smile removes pigments, Inc.-sponsored scent exhibition at Trump Tower; hosted an elaborate “feast of the senses” at all the action simply uncovers a smooth surface of color. extensive sampling at a number of retailers such as three of its New York stores “Creating a bullet lipstick that gets it right on the first Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Sephora and Lord & “This is the first time that Fragrance Week has application and lasts and lasts is a major undertaking, and Taylor, and a career guidance fair underwritten by really been geared directly to consumers,” said we were able to do that with Colour Perfection,” said Martin. CosmoGirl magazine. Rahme. “And I have to say that the enthusiasm of Colour Perfection, available in 42 shades, including 10 According to Rochelle Bloom, president of the fragrance aficionados — the true fragrance shimmer tones, will debut in January with a suggested retail the Fragrance Foundation, this new preholiday lovers — was so high. It shows me that con- price of $7.30. time slot essentially replaces the annual June sumers are really starved for information. While P&G does not break out sales, industry sources festivities. Beginning next year, the FiFis will be “Plus we’ve had great sales,” added Rahme. estimate the two launches combined will generate $30 mil- moved to April. “We did a gift-with-purchase and our sales have lion in retail sales within the first year. “To put it a bit bluntly, Fragrance Week is been up 15 percent this week.” In-store promotional displays of Lash Lift and Colour all about driving retail,” said Bloom. “Frag- Earlier in the week, the industry gathered on Perfection will trumpet product benefits. P&G will also call rance Week was always attached to the FiFis, the rooftop of the St. Regis Hotel for the attention to its launches with “aisle stoppers,” colorful sig- but in fact, nothing ever happened. And when Fragrance Foundation’s annual Circle of nage protruding from the beauty wall. you think, of it, why would you have a Frag- Champions dinner. Pete Born, vice president P&G will dole out Max Factor product kits to beauty rance Week in June, which is after Mother’s and associate publisher of WWD, was the advisers. The kits feature Lash Lift and Colour Perfection, Day? It wasn’t really the best time to celebrate evening’s honoree. and include tips from Ross on how to help retail customers fragrances.” — D.W. achieve the look of “The Aviator” stars. MAX FACTOR PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY MAX FACTOR OUR SIXTH ANNUAL HEALTHY BEAUTY AWARDS Congratulations to this year’s winners!

The votes are in for this year’s all-star beauty products. Judged by a panel of independent dermatologists, Health highlights the healthiest beauty products of ‘04. And, the winners are...

Best Body Wash Dove Gentle Exfoliating Body Wash

Best Cleanser Origins Checks And Balances Frothy Face Wash

Best Conditioner Suave Professionals Color Care Conditioner

Best Foundation Bobbi Brown Extra SPF 25 Tinted Moisturizing Balm

Best Fragrance Clarins Eau Tranquility

Best Lip Product Avon Beyond Color Plumping Lipcolor With Retinol SPF 15

Best Mascara Revlon Lash Fantasy Primer + Mascara Check out the Healthy Beauty Award Best Moisturizer winners in the November ‘04 issue Olay Regenerist Enhancing Lotion With UV Protection

Best Nail Product Sephora Cuticle Care Pen

Best Shampoo EO Chamomile & Honey Shampoo

Best Styling Product Matrix Biolage Smoothing Shine Milk

Best Sunscreen Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream For Face SPF 55 16 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 The Beauty Report Armani Launches Luxe Quartet NEW YORK — Giorgio Armani struck a populist chord this week when he threw open the doors to The Armani/Privé merchandising unit, his fashion show here — but his new fragrance is de- and below, the Armani/Privé collection. cidedly not aimed at the masses. With a price point of $185 for a 1.7-oz. bottle in the U.S. and 150 euros in Europe, Armani’s new quartet of scents, called Privé and slated for a December global launch, is the latest entry in the emerging category of luxury fragrances. It also rep- resents a striking departure for the brand. There are four different scents, each packaged in a square container made of African Kotibe wood with a glass liner and a Brancusi-inspired rounded cap. The outer packaging will be a hardened box fin- ished in sueded paper. In addition, the fragrances are unisex, but will not be marketed with that as a selling point. They simply will be available on both the men’s and women’s fragrance bars. It harkens back to the early days of perfumery, according to Renaud de Lesquen, international general manager of Giorgio Armani Parfums & Cosmetiques, a division of L’Oréal, Armani’s licensee. “In the old days, fragrance didn’t have a sexual distinction. We gave fragrance a sex.” During an interview Wednesday in his Casa Armani store in SoHo, the designer said he chose these four fragrances as a personal choice — mean- ing scents that he would use himself. “I’m sure that this particular product will not have such a wide audience,” he said through a trans- lator. “That is what makes the difference in fashion — it’s something not liked by everyone. I wanted to make something that discerning people would like.” It will be launched in only about 20 doors in the U.S. with equally scant distribution abroad. When asked if this did not seem elitist at a time when he invited 2,000 spectators into his fashion show this week, Armani replied that he has a num- ber of fragrances on the market that appeal to a tiques and select stores. De Lesquen said the line will be great number of people. He cited market research carried by Harrods in London, and talks are under way with showing his brand as ranking number three in the Bon Marché in Paris and 10 Corso Como in Milan. The com- world in women’s and men’s fragrances combined pany also has targeted high-end perfumeries in Germany and number one in men’s alone, driven by Acqua di and has settled on El Corte Ingles in Spain. Gio for Men. Turck Paquelier estimated distribution will not exceed For the new fragrance, however, he asserted: “I 200 doors worldwide by the end of 2005. The company is wanted to add a niche like couture.” contemplating an exclusive approach to the duty-free mar- Patricia Turck Paquelier, international brand ket, perhaps with a boutique-type environment. president of L’Oréal’s Prestige & Collections divi- She added that the line will make its debut in Asia in sion, sees the launch’s significance outweighing its 2005. Although Japan has a miniscule fragrance market, she dollar potential. sees a potential for gift-giving. The Privé price positioning will reinforce Ar- Jack Wiswall, president of the Designer Fragrances mani’s luxury image, but its intimate merchandising Division of L’Oréal USA in New York, also sees great gift po- is expected to also add something to the personality of brand. tential in the U.S., which is why the fragrances will be launched the first week in She noted that the launch of Armani’s makeup collection in 2001 strengthened December. “This is a great add-on sale,” he said. A gift set will be offered, including the feminine quality of the overall brand that had been identified largely with suc- all four fragrances, for $740. cess in men’s fragrances. Chris Payne, director of marketing of Giorgio Armani Parfums, said three con- Likewise, the Privé launch, which will take place mostly in boutiques and spe- sumer groups are being targeted within the specialty store world — “the Armani ad- cialty stores with in-store attention replacing advertising, represents an effort to dict, connoisseurs and trendsetters.” bring more to the customer and provide more service, she noted. “It’s a way to get The four fragrances were designed like natural scents one may find in a faraway closer to the customer and get the customer closer to us,” said Turck Paquelier, who exotic location. Eau de Jade, for instance, has only 11 ingredients. The other three sees this personal connection as a key to building a truly luxurious business. are Pierre de Lune, Ambre Soie and Bois d’Encens. She framed this point with such importance as to suggest that perhaps something When asked if the scents were inspired by travel, Armani replied, “I never trav- may be learned from this launch that can be transferred to the brand’s other more eled a lot in my life, but I [have] always worked a lot with my mind. I am a Cancer, widely distributed, commercial fragrances “in telling the Armani story.” oriented to nature. We live on this planet and we need to be connected to the Earth.” Serge Jureidini, general manager of Giorgio Armani Parfums & Cosmetics U.S., The personal, private nature of his new fragrance project certainly puts Armani said the fragrance will be launched in the U.S. in the 10 Armani boutiques here and at odds with the wave of celebrity fragrances sweeping out of Hollywood. And he’s in another five to 10 select specialty stores, with more doors added in April. not impressed. This is truly a couture proposition. Executives don’t see the American distribu- Armani said that one could ask how making a movie qualifies someone to make tion exceeding 40 doors by the second year. L’Oréal does not break out figures, but in- a fragrance, but then recants, pointing out that someone could easily ask how dustry sources estimate that the fragrances will not generate more than $3 million to making clothes entitles one to sign a fragrance. But he does have a ready answer $5 million at retail in the U.S. alone for the first 12 months. on the subject. Likewise, in the rest of the world, the fragrances will be launched in Armani bou- “Clothes are close to the body, and they are meant to embellish the body,” he said. “Perfumes are meant to do the same.” He added that it’s inevitable that celebrities will endorse products, but asserts that “80 percent of the time, it doesn’t work. “I like people who say even if it is signed by the greatest celebrity, ‘I can make a L’Oréal Garners Global Leadership Award choice. It does not work for me.’ ” WASHINGTON — Lindsay Owen-Jones accepted the first On another beauty front, following the slowly unfolding and highly successful Diversity Best Practices’ Global Leadership Award Tuesday launch of the Armani color line, Turck Paquelier is now planning to introduce a skin here, for L’Oréal’s commitment to fostering corporate care line under the Armani banner in 2006. diversity initiatives. Acknowledging that conventional wisdom has always held that designers lack the “To a large extent, our strength comes from the diversity of our necessary credibility for selling treatment, Turck Paquelier has been building a teams,” said Owen-Jones in a statement. “People of all origins and bridge. Reasoning that foundation inspires the most consumer loyalty, she has built cultures, different ages and levels of experience work together the foundation share of makeup sales to 40 percent. A sizable number, considering every day, stimulating innovation and fostering personal growth.” that most designer color lines excel in lipstick, she noted. Diversity Best Practices and The Business Women’s As for the designer, he is thinking even farther ahead. Armani would like to do Network, which bestowed the award on L’Oréal, are products for the body and fragrance sizes that can be carried in the pocket. He noted Washington-based organizations providing resources, Lindsay that he likes to carry around a fragrance and frequently take a sniff. “It’s a little like publications and benchmarking services for diversity and Owen- a drug addiction,” he confessed. women in business. Jones Armani also would like to do skin creams “that don’t make men look ridiculous.” — Kristi Ellis Sun care is also high on his list. — Pete Born WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 17

WWW.WWD.COM

Giorgio Armani with …and Wyclef Jean. John Mayer…

Carolina Herrera Glenn Close …Radha Mitchell…

If Giorgio Armani wasn’t exhausted by the end Hunnam and Cattrall were two of the overlapping of his weeklong trip to New York, his frequent guests at Graydon Carter’s party Wednesday night for date, Eugenia Silva, could barely pick herself Vanity Fair’s new photography book, “Oscar Night: 75 eye® off the floor. Years of Hollywood Parties,” supported, in part, by Armani. “Just one more event tonight,” Silva sighed at The evening brought out those who’ve enjoyed their fair a lunch at the Giorgio Armani boutique share of Oscar Nights, including Liam Neeson, Robert De Thursday, referring to the Fashion Group International Niro and Grace Hightower, Carolina Herrera, Aerin Lauder, Awards that night set to honor the designer. A model in law Diane von Furstenberg and Eva Green, of “The Dreamers” school, Silva added that she’d have to throw a party once she and the related Emporio Armani ad campaign. finishes her exams “so people actually believe I’m a lawyer.” “I’ve always loved cinema,” Armani said. “There are so As one of Armani’s fashion ambassadors, she was many movies I love, it’s impossible to decide [which is my accompanying the designer to a series of events, starting with favorite]. I could say ‘Notorious,’ but I could also say Tuesday evening’s fashion show. ‘Blade Runner.’” Kim Cattrall, Glenn Close, Wyclef Jean, Kerry Washington, The glamorous affair had Gretchen Mol reminiscing John Mayer and Radha Mitchell were just some of the about the first time she wore Armani, which happened to celebrities — all, of course, dressed by Armani — who sat be at the 1998 Vanity Fair Oscar party. “It was a pale green front-row at Pier 59 to take in a replay of the spring collection beaded gown,” she recalled. “I didn’t keep it — you can’t the designer showed in Milan. As if it weren’t enough to watch really wear something like that again.” ringside, Ricky Martin took to strutting his stuff on the runway. As for Neeson, Armani started to dress him after Most of the boldfacers stuck around for an A|X party, where “Schindler’s List” was released. “There’s a beautiful dusty Armani ran around the cavernous space greeting friends. gray double-breasted suit that I still have in my closet,” he Photographers made a serpentine trail behind him, snapping said. “I touch it reverentially at least once a week.” each photo op whenever the designer embraced another The next afternoon at the boutique, Alex Kramer, Zani celebrity guest. Gugelmann, Emilia Fanjul Pfeifler, Marielle Safra, Olivia Mayer said it was his first fashion show. “I wasn’t scared Chantecaille and Serena Boardman queued up to have their at all,” he explained. When asked what he might find scary photo taken with the designer as if he was Santa Claus — about the proceedings he said, “I don’t know, it’s foreign.” although some of the Ladies Who Lunch complained about Vin Diesel was just upset that he has trouble finding the small finger sandwiches. “I coudn’t say I wanted 10 outfits to fit his wide and bulky frame. “Who the hell do I sandwiches because the people in front of me were only talk to about that?” he blurted. “I’m going to find Giorgio asking for one,” remarked one socialite. right now and tell him to hook me up.” In his new movie, Still, Armani — who finished the day with a book MITRA ROBERT BY ; SILVA “Find Me Guilty,” Diesel plays a mobster who spends most signing at Bergdorf Goodman — was the center of of the film in jail. “I don’t get to wear nice clothes in attention. prison,” he said. “But in court I do.” “He’s so cute, that Armani,” observed Eleanor Lembo. As for Charlie Hunnam, the star of “Nicholas Nickleby” He had equally kind words to say about Lembo and her who will one day, he hopes, star in an Armani ad campaign, friends. “In Milan, there is snobbery,” said Armani. “The he smiled wistfully at the thought of the fake Armani sweater women in New York smile more easily.” Barbara

Armani-ganza he had growing up. “Now I’m hobnobbing with the man.” — Marshall Heyman and Sara James Wilhelmilhelm and Eugenia Silva at the Armani lunch.lunch.

Ricky Martin walking Liam Neeson the Gretchen Mol and Kim Cattrall Eva Green and Robert DeNiro catwalk. Kerry Washington X PARTY PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH; WASHINGTON AMD CLOSE BY WIREIMAGE; VF PARTY BY SHANA NOVAK; NEESON/DE NIRO BY PATRICK MCMULLAN PATRICK NEESON/DE NIRO BY SHANA NOVAK; BY WIREIMAGE; VF PARTY BY AMD CLOSE KEITH SMITH; WASHINGTON PHOTOS BY X PARTY A| 18 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004

The HBA Report WWW.WWD.COM Dermatology’s Downtown Wave

By Dana Wood The lot of rock stars, although I can’t tell you who. But we have reception some of the biggest stars in the music industry here.” NEW YORK — Wave bye-bye to the lab coats. area at Not that Colbert isn’t down with the common folk. “I Although the name attached to the door — New York still see lots of regular, everyday patients,” he said. New York Dermatology Group — is sufficiently business-y, the “Everyone always just wants to read about the celebri- Dermatology interior of this new perfect-skin emporium on lower Dermatology ties. But most of the people in the world aren’t celebri- Fifth Avenue here is decidedly lush. Eleven thousand Group. ties. They’re just normal, hardworking people.” square feet of blond wood, massive windows and spa- Normal, hardworking people with money to burn on cious treatment rooms, it’s the antithesis of the sterile beauty treatments, that is. While every ordinary skin ail- quarters well-heeled New Yorkers typically find them- ment can be dealt with at New York Dermatology Group, selves in when they’re in need of a little the practice offers a comprehensive menu of cutting-edge Rogaine or a blast of Botox. Dr. David cosmetic treatments. The $900 Acu-Lume Rejuvenation Headed by rising star dermatologist Colbert Facial, for example, is a three-step treatment that starts David Colbert, there are several other with a laser tightening of the skin followed by both

professionals accounting for this prac- TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY acupuncture and acupressure. The $300, 45-minute Medi- tice’s “group” moniker: dermatologist Cure also deploys a laser to tone and firm the feet, fol- Neha Parikh, research clinician Jovianna A native of Iowa who has received ex- lowed by microdermabrasion to remove dead skin and two DiCarlo, acupuncturists Mary Joo and tensive training in both dermatology and separate peels. A full range of all the latest fillers is also on Nina Hernandez and cosmetologist Eliza- internal medicine, Colbert has criss- offer, including Restylane, Perlane, Sculptra and Fascian. beth Maslowska. crossed the globe throughout his career. In addition, Colbert has partnered with La Roche- And then there’s Marianne Gillow, a Fluent in French, he logged a year in Posay, the L’Oréal-owned dermatological skin care physician who acts as the consortium’s Paris, living in the Marais and commuting brand, and is getting the early break on a number of the “patient experience coordinator.” Essen- to the Chanel C.E.R.I.E.S. research labs line’s latest products. One such item is Mela-D Skin tially, Gillow samples every New York on the outskirts of the city. Lightening Daily Lotion, a new hyperpigmentation Dermatology Group treatment before it’s Despite his intentions to continue per- treatment pairing 2 percent hydroquinone with lipohy- greenlighted for patients. Whether it’s a sonally seeing between 30 to 40 patients a droxy acid and a proprietary sunscreen complex of Parisian Peel Microdermabrasion or a day, Colbert’s VIP schedule keeps him on octocrylene and Parsol 1789. Titan Laser “Face Lift,” if it doesn’t pass muster with the move. Through his brother-in-law Todd Hallowel, an Despite the solid buzz building around Colbert and Gillow, it just doesn’t happen. executive producer of several Ron Howard films, his luxe layout, the doctor insists he’s just part of a new The new space, conceived and executed by architect Colbert has consulted on a number of high-profile “downtown dermatology” wave. Roger Fairey, is just a few blocks from Colbert and com- movies, including “A Beautiful Mind,” “The Missing” “There are a lot of us down here now,” he said. “I pany’s previous digs. “We were in our other location for and the upcoming “Cinderella Man.” Next year, he’ll pop know of four or five practices around here, although five years, but we just outgrew it,” he said. “And we knew back over to France to consult on the set of “The Da they might not be as big as this one. we wanted to expand and try to brand ourselves. Vinci Code.” “We have a vision,” Colbert added. “We’re not old- “Plus, we needed more doctors,” added Colbert. “I While he won’t drop any juicy names, Colbert also fashioned. We’re not like those dull-carpeted, subbase- had been interviewing people for years, but it’s hard to claims to minister to a slew of daytime TV and soap stars. ment dermatology offices that everyone thinks they find doctors who are good at both cosmetic and med- “Whenever they’re finished shooting for the day, they pop have to go to because they live on the Upper East Side. ical dermatology.” by for injections or other services,” he said. “We also do a We’re the downtown dermatologists.” Spongeables Aim to Soak Up Bath Sales NEW YORK — A lack of innovation in the bath category has re- sulted in tepid sales. Sales in prestige remained flat, while sales in mass doors sank 5 percent to $152 million (excluding Wal-Mart) for the 52- week period ended Oct. 18, according to ACNielsen. Hoping to turn the tide is a new line called Spongeables. Spongeables are sponges infused with natural glycerin and olive oil-based soap. The soap lasts for about 30 showers, ac- cording to Elaine Binder, executive vice president of trick or SpongeTech Inc. “I found a way to create Spongeables because my five-year-old son was going through a lot of expensive show- er gel and I thought there had to be a way to make soap last,” said Binder. Spongeables offer more than just soap in a sponge. The in- gredients combine exfoliation, cleansing and massaging. treatments First produced last November, Spongeables have already been successful at upscale merchants such as Henri Bendel, Nordstrom, Marshall Field’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. Specialty chains including Pure Beauty and Beauty First also picked up the sponges, which retail for $15 for the 30-shower version or $5 for a seven-shower visibly improve your skin travel size. According to Bin- ® Critical Mass der, exposure through glycolics to BOTOX …and so much more premium hotels such By Faye Brookman as The Venetian in receive a special halloween treat. Las Vegas has also helped build consum- treat yourself. don’t let the trick be on you. er interest. Industry sources estimate sales could exceed $25 million within the next year. make the call! The company upped its distribution capacity and is broad- ening distribution to include Ulta, Fred Meyer and Bristol Farms. Last June, Binder unveiled Spongeables to mass mer- chants at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores Marketplace meeting. Retailers singled out the line as one of the show’s standout items. “Spongeables was one of the most unique products at that show,” said Kathy Vanek, category manager for Snyder’s Drug klinic in Minnetonka, Minn. skin She especially liked the fact that the sponges can be cut into playful shapes for children. Also, there are many scents, in- 800 b 5th avenue 44-48 west putnam avenue cluding lavender, fig, grapefruit and jasmine. According to new york, ny 10021 greenwich, ct 06830 Binder, the soaps can be produced for proprietary labels. 212 521 3100 203 622 5100 While the bath category has been challenging for many retail- www.skinklinic.com ers, the accessory portion of sales has helped boost margins. What retailers also like about Spongeables is the combination of being a soap and a loofah. Spongeables are merchandised in a ©2004 skin klinic™ All Rights Reserved. variety of vehicles including an inline display and a floor stand. BOTOX® is a registered trademark of Allergan. Call for details. Certain restrictions apply. WE KNOW BRIDES ARE BEAUTIFUL BUT… ADWEEK MADE US A PERFECT “10”

Fairchild's mega bridal book Bride's is new to the Hit List this year, due to AD REVENUE, YTD: $99.6 MILLION its standing in two major ad categories--Apparel & Accessories, where it ranks AD PAGES, YTD: $1,684.3 as the No. 2 revenue-producing magazine, and Retail, where it's No. 10, TOTAL CIRC: 366,598 working its way into the category after just missing it in 2003. ON TOP 10 IN 2 CATEGORIES

BRIDE’S MAGAZINE. THE FIRST AND DEFINITIVE SOURCE AND STYLE GUIDE FOR EVERY BRIDE.

To join the apparel and retail advertisers that made Bride’s one of Adweek’s 2004 Heavy Hitters, call your Fairchild Bridal Group sales representative or Elizabeth Nann, Publisher, 212.286.8380.

EVERY BRIDE. EVERY DAY. EVERYWHERE. 20 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Media/Advertising

A SHOWER OF BAUER: The ink is hardly dry on the first issue of Life & Style Weekly AMC: Riptides and Ripostes MEMO PAD and Bauer Publishing already is looking ahead with two new titles in development for possible 2005 launches By Jeff Bercovici at supermarket checkouts near you. One will be a hip-hop- BOCA RATON, Fla. — This year’s American oriented spin-off of teen title J-14. Dodai Stewart, one of J-14’s Magazine Conference — aka summer camp for editors, is in charge of creating the prototype. A Bauer media executives — concluded Wednesday leaving spokeswoman said the project is being handled as a special some headaches, teary eyes and at least one nervous issue but could turn into something bigger if it sells well. swimmer, but everyone was eager to come back next Less is known about Bauer’s other start-up, which is year and rally round the cause of glossy magazines slated to hit late next year. Samantha Youngman, who again. After last year’s heatstroke-inducing powwow defected from Star to Bauer earlier this month, will serve as in remote Palm Springs, attendees applauded the executive editor under an editor in chief who has yet to be relative accessibility of the Boca Raton Resort & named. A source at Bauer said Laura Gilbert, who is leaving Club (also known as Dick Cheney’s undisclosed loca- her post as a senior editor at Maxim, also will be part of the tion), which had many like David Granger and Ariel team. The details of the new magazine are being kept secret Foxman popping in for a mere 12 hours. They also even from Bauer employees. praised conference chair Eileen Naughton, presi- One thing the new title won’t be is another celebrity dent of Time magazine, for scoring Bill Clinton as weekly, at least if Youngman is true to her word. Sources said keynote speaker in only his second public appear- that, upon departing American Media, she promised AMI ance since his open-heart surgery. Some highlights: editorial director Bonnie Fuller that the launch would not be a competitor to Star. ■ Amazon.com founder Jeff Bezos’ talk on innova- Not so for Life & Style Weekly, which will go head-to-head tion, which put dollar signs in listeners’ eyes. “They with Star Shop, the new product- have 10 percent of the book business,” said Jack oriented quarterly being Kliger, chief executive officer of Hachette Filipacchi developed by Star’s creative Media. “If they could end up with 10 percent of the director, Kelli Delaney. A number magazine business, that would be a boon for the in- of Life & Style staffers are Star dustry.” And maybe a real competitor to Wal-Mart, veterans, including executive which happens to have 10 to 15 percent of the maga- editor Nathan Cooper and senior zine business. editor Dan Jewel. Most recently, it poached Star’s research chief ■ Water. Carolyn Bekkedahl, executive vice presi- and copy chief. But Life & Style dent of American Media, said she enjoyed getting up has a markedly different tone before sunrise one morning to go swimming under the from either Star or its Bauer- stars. “When can you ever do that in New York City?” owned rival, In Touch, said But not everyone had such a tranquil dip. After Cooper. “We’re really, really not swimming out past the breakers to try bodysurfing, about being mean.” Playboy editorial director Chris Napolitano found Bill Clinton speaks at the American Magazine Conference. — Jeff Bercovici Life & Style’s debut issue. himself getting sucked out to sea by a powerful cur- rent and had to fight his way to shore. “They closed ADIEU BAZAAR: Speculation about the fate of Natasha Fraser- the beach right after I got out,” he said. And he into TV. This year, the Magazine Publishers of Cavassoni, the Paris-based executive editor and a friend of thought he had to watch out for the rough currents in America unveiled its answer: a $40 million campaign former Bazaar editor in chief Kate Betts, has raged ever since circulation. with creative by ad agency Fallon New York to con- Glenda Bailey took over. Now it’s finally been decided: Fraser- vince the public that reading magazines is better Cavassoni exited the Hearst-owned title this week. Hearst said ■ The soothing presence of actor Jim Belushi. No than watching reality shows. “The industry is finally Thursday the magazine is restructuring its European coverage autograph-seekers molested Belushi (aka the poor making a big statement,” said Hearst publishing di- by hiring contributing editors in key cities. The title just man’s Bill Murray) as he watched game two of the rector Michael Clinton. tapped J.J. Martin as a Milan-based contributing editor, World Series in the bar or enjoyed a cigar poolside. though a Paris equivalent has yet to be named. The question Why couldn’t Cheney be so sociable? ■ Cutting-edge insights. Bonnie Fuller, American is: Will that person have Fraser-Cavassoni’s Rolodex, which is Media’s editorial director, parachuted in to tell her one of the best in Europe? — Robert Murphy ■ Russell Simmons’ one-on-one with Roy Johnson fellow editors that a magazine’s cover must grab the of Sports Illustrated. Despite the hip-hop impre- reader’s attention in a matter of seconds. “And all EMAP GRABS GRAZIA: Emap, the British publisher that sario’s mild race baiting and abundant F-bombs, he launched the irreverent and ultrasuccessful celebrity weekly drew good reviews. “He’s just a regular street guy Heat, is looking to take another bite out of the women’s who’s turned himself into a mogul,” said Denise magazine market — this time by recruiting a bit of Italian Favorule, publisher of Rodale’s women’s magazine I have tenure, which means I spice. The company has signed a licensing deal with the group. “There was no overthink.” “ Italian publisher Mondadori to publish the weekly glossy don’t have to do anything. magazine Grazia in the U.K. The magazine, which will ■ Whiz kid John Maeda. A professor at MIT’s — John Maeda, MIT’s Media” Lab launch in the spring, will be the first weekly women’s glossy ultra high tech Media Lab, Maeda’s talk — a bizarre in Britain and go head-to-head with all those other weeklies stream of fast-food imagery and personal anecdotes — Hello and OK among them. — left some baffled and others in stitches. Maeda this time we thought newsstands come equipped The company said Grazia will offer up a mix of “glamour, didn’t care. “At MIT, I have tenure, which means I with Barcaloungers,” quipped Men’s Health editor gossip and style, fashion and life in general.” Emap also don’t have to do anything anymore,” he said. “I could David Zinczenko. plans to pump up the celebrity content, which is practically staple together four pieces of paper and just stare at nonexistent in the Italian Grazia. Emap aims to sell 150,000 it all day if I want to.” Of course, the conference had its lowlights as copies each week in the first year, and will invest up to $29 well…. million to take the title to break-even. Fiona McIntosh, former ■ Action over talk. Every year, publishers gather editor of U.K. Elle, will be editor in chief while the managing to moan about the constant leakage of print dollars ■ The soporific stylings of Postmaster General director of the magazine will be David Davies, former editor of Jack Potter. OK, so it’s hard for anyone to follow Bill the men’s glossy FHM. Russell Clinton. But Potter had half the room snoring into The Italian Grazia, which was founded in 1938, may have their coffee cups. “They told me this session was a loyal following, but it isn’t exactly the trendiest title on the Simmons going to be packed,” scoffed one attendee, surveying newsstand. Aimed at the masses of Italian working women, it the half-empty auditorium. But hey, you make postal does not have the style or fashion content of Io Donna, rates sound sexy. Corriere della Sera’s weekly women’s magazine, or D, Repubblica delle Donne, La Repubblica’s weekly magazine. ■ Speaking of the auditorium, there was the cryo- — Samantha Conti genic level of air conditioning. “It couldn’t have been more frigid in there,” griped Playboy publisher BLOG SPORT: The total overhaul of Mediabistro.com won’t be Diane Silberstein. unveiled until January, but newly appointed editor in chief Elizabeth Spiers puts her first thumbprint on the site this ■ Tension at the MPA board meeting. Upset that Monday. The latest blog from the woman who brought us not enough publishers were ponying up ad space to Gawker and The Kicker? Blog TK. “It’s a temporary title,” support the marketing campaign, an executive from said Spiers. “We were going to call it ‘This Is Not The the trade group allegedly broke into tears. Redesign Blog,’ but that was too long.” Of the content, Spiers added: “It’ll be a lot of standard media blogging, to ■ For Jason Binn of Ocean Drive, the flock of peo- get the readers used to communicating with us and establish ple who left a day early, on Tuesday. Binn’s party our sources. We’ll probably add some gossip.” Commenting happened to be scheduled for that night. It was sub- on a recent story in the New York Sun that was critical of sequently canceled. Spiers’ second-generation successor at Gawker, Jessica Coen, Spiers said, “I think Jessica will be in much better ■ Jon Secada. News that the Grammy-winning shape after she gets used to it. And what that [Sun] story recording star would be performing at the Tuesday didn’t mention is that the Gawker traffic is still turning night dinner bash set lips buzzing with a single upward. It’s hardly ‘over.’” — Sara James word: “Who?” © 2004 Advance Magazine Group . , Mary Berner to Advertising Age A+ has just selected has just selected And an for being named The New Yorker Yorker The New are in: are CEO Publications of Fairchild and lts Publishing Executive of the Year Publishing Executive of the A-List of Magazines. resu to their Advertising Age Advertising Nast Traveler, Condé Lucky The Congratulations. We are by the inspired recognition you have received. VOGUE • W • GLAMOUR • ALLURE • SELF • JANE • TEEN VOGUE • GQ • DETAILS • VITALS • ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST • VITALS VOGUE • W • GLAMOUR • ALLURE • SELF • JANE • TEEN VOGUE • GQ • DETAILS BRIDE CONNECTION • LUCKY HOUSE & GARDEN • BRIDE’S • MODERN BRIDE • ELEGANT BRIDE • MODERN CARGO • DOMINO • GOLF DIGEST • GOLFWORLD • FOR WOMEN • GOLF • BON APPÉTIT • GOURMET FAIR VANITY • THE NEW YORKER • WIRED • EPICURIOUS.COM • CONCIERGE.COM • STYLE.COM • PARADE CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER 22 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004

DESIGN ASSISTANT Production Asst./Administr SAMPLEMAKER Working on woven design project from 3 years experience and chinese language For expensive knits. Samples & small start to finish including specs, preparing required. Fax Resume to: 212-382-3623 production. Only very fast need apply. overseas follow-up, trim cards, fabric 212-921-2233 library and researching trims. Qualified candidate must have an eye for trend, CLOSE OUTS creative energy and able to work in a fast Seamstress/Tailor We Buy Men’s, paced environment and meet deadlines. FASHION DESIGNER Women’s & Children’s 1-2 years experience required. PRODUCTION Seeking experienced individual for Fax resume to: 917-510-9778 Evening Gowns & Dressy Suits. F/T or All Quantities COORDINATOR P/T. $100.00 per day. Call 212-826-2553 WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY Must have strong computer skills and DESIGN ASST experience with organizing complex We are nice people to deal with Lg est. wo. suit co seeks indiv w/ exp. production. Must be willing to learn. Seamstress/Tailor P.S. Large Piece Good Deals in sourcing. Must be able to skectch, Email resume to: [email protected] Sewer needed to start ASAP for high end Also HBA and General Merchandise. must be energetic and well-organized. textile mfr. Ability to sew simple curtains, For immediate interview: also cut, serge, and label fabric samples Call Rocky 800-762-5488 Fax resume: 212-302-5259 in bulk. Prior exp. working with fabric helpful. Good pay & excellent benefits. PRODUCT MANAGER to set up interview or Fax Sample Mgr.: Design Manager to $120K Tel: 718-752-9830 x 206 / Fax: 718-752-0419 Misy active/ casual. Wal-Mart a must Health & Beauty Aids Janet Stevens*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Development/execution of HBA mar- [email protected] Seamstress/Tailor keting plans, marketing strategies and Sporting Goods Accessories co. seeks P/T programs. Identify market trends and Samplemaker ASAP! Sew prototypes, needs, develop concepts: patternmaking, technical sewing, grading. PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Must be exp’d w/wide range of technical Develop new product, sourcing, packag- fabrics (including neoprene and elastics). ing/artwork, pricing, work with operations, Call/E-mail Linda Stein: 212-653-8813 Director of Quality customer service and accounting. [email protected] Assurance and Control INFOMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT Work with the creative team in the devel- Sourcing Coordinator Leading childrenswear company is opment of infomercial components ie. seeking a high level, detail-oriented Di- YAK PAK, a leading manufacturer of bags, testimonial groups, talent, celebrity is looking for an energetic member to rector of Quality Assurance and Con- agents, outside producers Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. trol. The candidate should have a mini- add to its team. The candidate must have 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views mum of 5 years experience in Quality Assist in the marketing positioning of extensive raw material as well as finished SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT Assurance and 2 years in children’s ap- all HBA websites. Responsible for build- good contacts in Asia. Travel is a must. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 parel. The candidate will be responsi- ing a QVC relationship and business Knowledge of Mandarin or Cantonese ble for factory evaluations and Q.C. au- with existing and new HBA products. aplus. Full benefits package offered. dits, quality assurance procedures, ven- E-mail: [email protected] Salary commensurate with experience. Please forward all resumes and salary dor compliance and quality assurance No phone calls please standards. This individual will work requirements to: [email protected] with pre-production and testing proce- dures along with pre and post design SWEATER DESIGNER garment engineering. This position re- Contemporary sports co. seeks designer quires extensive overseas travel. with min. 5 years import exp. Must Please e-mail your resume to: RECEPTIONIST have technical knowledge of yarns holt@ babytogs.com or fax to: Day Spa seeking front desk receptionist & sweater construction (212)643-2826. No telephone calls that is organized, upbeat and highly Fax Resume 212-302-5763 For Space in Garment Center please. EOE. trained in customer service. Please Attn: Lynn Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Fax: 347-427-9120 Phone: 347-273-9378 212-880-0414 Visual Merchandisers ESTHETICIAN Long Island jean stores looking for full Day Spa seeking Esthetician w/at least time visual merchandisers. Experience 3yrs exp. as well as massage therapy. necessary. Fax resume & sal. req. to: Fax: 347-427-9120 Phone: 347-273-9378 516-742-4720 Showrooms & Lofts RECEPTIONIST BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail John Paul Richard, a fast-paced women’s ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Executive/Sales Asst apparel company, seeks a dynamic Busy accessories company seeks mature candidate to hold down the fort at our individual to work with our VP/COO. Showroom’s busy front desk. Duties Strong administrative and customer serv- will include phones, administrative ice experience required. Light supervi- and sales support. Experience with sion of support staff. Good benefits. FedEx Powership, Word & Excel desired. Fax resume w/ sal. history to: Minimum 1 year experience in front 212-244-5897 Attn: VP office work required. Fax resume to: 212-398-2827 or E-mail: [email protected] FIRST & PRODUCTION GANT PATTERN MAKER Sales Original American Sportswear 1411 B’dwy - Sublet to 6/30/05 Growing Men’s and Women’s Sportswear & dress co. seeks diverse since 1949 530 sq. ft • 4th Floor high-end apparel company pattern maker with experience in 1 Month FREE Rent for Immediate Retail Planner/ jackets & dresses. Seeking highly motivated sales Occupancy. Call: 212-719-3220 hiring for the following posi- Fax resume 212-302-5763 professionals to join our Buyer tions. Incredible opportunities Attn: Lynn expanding sales team. Exciting opportunity availa- available in both our NEW Imagine a company that recognizes ble for individual with 2-3 YORK Office and SOHO your individuality and passion, and SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE retail store. gives you the opportunity to contribute WOMEN’S WEAR MAKE YOUR MOVE years experience in high-end JR. FINANCIAL ANALYST in meaningful ways from day one. A company devoted to building and shaping Great career opportunity for self- Classy affordable space. apparel. Responsibilities in- Sales A leading Manhattan apparel company 1,500-10,000SqFt Must see! your future. That company exists. That starter in our newly formed division. clude analyzing sales and Retail Sales has an immediate position available for company is L’Oreal USA. Call Allan Gallaway Bernstein R.E. stock performance; commu- aJr. Financial Analyst. This position will Minimum of 5 years better sports- 212-594-1414 Ext 251 nicating with stores and Visual Mdse support the CFO and Senior Manage- wear experience required. Merchandising ment in various analysis projects. This corporate management on includes performing business analysis, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE business opportunities, Competitive salary and com- planning and forecasting, revenue and assortment needs, stock prehensive benefits package. variance analysis. This position requires MEN’S WEAR the preparation of annual operating ex- Seeking an energetic sales-driven levels, and strategies by Please email resume to: pense budgets and will prepare monthly store to maximize sales and [email protected] sales and margin reports. This candidate Education & Business individual with 2-3 years of high- EOE M/F will be responsible for the creation of end wholesale experience. presentation. BS/BA and ex- several financial reports and must have Consultants cellent communication and extensive computer experience including Kerastase is looking for Education and Strong working relationships with analytical skills required. Microsoft Excel. Excellent salary and Business Consultants nationwide to Better Specialty Stores is imperative. benefits. Please e-mail your resume sell Kerastase Retail and Treatment Jamaica, Queens-Commerical ware- Please fax or email resume and salary requirements to: products to high-end salon accounts in Must have superb communication house for lease. 40,000 sq. ft. w/ and salary history to: [email protected]. EOE. a given territory. In addition to sales, and computer skills. Exceptional approx 4000 sq. ft. a/c office space + Apparel Staffing this position requires the Education & benefits. Fax or E-mail resumes to: loading docks. Racking system + many (212) 632-4322; See Career Openings Business Consultant to deliver profes- amenities. Call landlord 516-997-2442 [email protected] @ www.apparelstaffing.com sional education and hands-on training/ 212-230-1950 EOE M/F Marketing support. The successful Education & Business Consultant will identify and [email protected] respond to opportunities that build Admin Since 1967 long-term market share, as well as No phone calls please maximize sales in the short term. The W-I-N-S-T-O-N CAD/Textile Design position must uphold the integrity of Fast paced textile co seeks exp’d CAD the brand by following guidelines, APPAREL STAFFING artist to use photoshop to create lay- SALES DESIGN*SALES*MERCH along with meeting expectations, goals out, redesign and colorways. Must be Senior Market and missions. ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION exp’d with dyes and gouche is a plus. Key Account Sales (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Fax resume to 212-730-0362 Att: SK/Connie Research Analyst Qualified candidates must possess a To work existing & expand or email [email protected] L’Oreal USA is seeking a Senior Market Bachelor’s degree, along with 2-3 years branded and private label Research Analyst for their New York of sales experience. Must be able to mens/boys jeanswear busi- City location to research market condi- assess strategic customer needs and tions and sales potential, and to develop build alliances over time. Candidates ness with major accts. Co. is APPAREL DESIGN ASSISTANT and coordinate product launch strategies. will need excellent written and verbal rapidly growing & looking to Leading childrenswear company is Catherine Malandrino Position requires a MBA in Marketing, communication skills, as well as the add the right indiv to our seeking a highly motivated Design As- Technical Designer and 2 yrs exp in managing advertising ability to perform both education and sistant with a minimum of 3 years ex- campaigns, including strategic launch sales functions. team. Great oppty for just the To handle fittings, develop & issue specs. of international beauty care products perience in the children’s apparel in- Must have min. 3 years exp. in overseas right person. Exp w/this type of dustry. This candidate must be CAD as well as adaptation of global plans to L’Oreal USA offers a competitive salary PATTERNS, SAMPLES, production & knowledge of pattern correc- local markets. Please fax resume and business a must. literate. This candidate will assist the tions, grading, and garment construction. and benefits package including medical/ PRODUCTIONS Senior Designer and will be responsible cover letter with salary history/ dental/life, relocation assistance, for executing designs for customer pre- Production Assistant requirements to: L’Oreal USA, Inc., Sales Assistant All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. To issue and approve cutting tickets. education assistance, company-matched Call Sherry 212-719-0622. sentations and packages for garment Human Resources (212) 984-5038. EOE. 401(k), pension plan, and much more! To handle & communicate production. This individual should have Responsible for approving production related invoices. Will order bulk fabric For consideration, please email your w/ major nat’l & regional experience in all phases of line develop- resume to: [email protected]. ment with an understanding of color, fab- & trims, monitor fabric inventory, and accts. Must be detail orient- issue claims for production discrepancies. Subject line of email must read ric and trim details. The candidate WHN#1461377. Or fax (212) 973-5220. ed w/ good communication must be organized, detail oriented and Fit Model Production Assistant EOE M/F/D/V. skills. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, familiar with line development timelines. Size 4 w/ flexible work schedule. Body Major NYC Ladies’ & Girls’ Swimwear Co. Please email your resume to: measurements: bust=33-34", waist=26- seeks the right person for our fast growing Please fax resume to: 27" and low hip= 36-36 1/2". To learn more about L’Oreal USA PRODUCTIONS [email protected] or fax to: Import dept.. LC, traffic, and general and our careers, visit: 646-674-1246 Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine 212-643-2826. Please no telephone Fax resumes to: 212-840-3630 apparel import exp. necessary. E-mail fast work. 212-869-2699. calls. EOE Attn: Production dept. resume to: [email protected] www.lorealusa.com WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 23 WWW.WWD.COM Margolis: Reebok Apparel Revival Under Way By Melanie Kletter through any politics and get things done.” division, which targets youth and houses area. International sales of Reebok Reebok has seen a number of high-pro- the company’s collaborations with music branded products were $497 million, an NEW YORK — As he prepares to officially file executive shifts in recent years, and stars Pharrell Williams, 50 Cent and Jay-Z. increase of 23 percent, in the recent leave Reebok International at the end of the firm is known for fast turnover among Margolis said he believes the current quarter, although most of that increase November, president and chief operating the top brass. “Four years is actually a long fashion push among other activewear firms was from the Hockey Co., which Reebok officer Jay Margolis said the company is time to be in that position at Reebok or is good for the industry and has helped purchased earlier this year. taking key steps to fix its branded appar- anywhere else these days,” noted athletic fuel apparel sales in the sector. Adidas now Margolis, who has a long track record el business, which has been a notable analyst Matt Powell of Princeton Retail has collaborative deals with designers in the fashion industry at firms such as Liz disappointment. Analysis. Through a spokeswoman, Fire- such as Yohji Yamamoto and Stella Claiborne and Esprit, joined Reebok at a “The frustration of not fixing branded man declined to comment, but he told McCartney, while Puma has pushed into time when its sales were $2.9 billion, and apparel is there,” Margolis said in an in- WWD last week that he was looking to more lifestyle offerings and streetwear. the company was beginning to come out of terview with WWD. “But we have cleaned groom a successor from within the firm. “The offerings have to be fashion a difficult period. Just four years earlier, it up and upgraded the quality. We are Looking ahead, Margolis said he does right,” Margolis noted. “When I first got to in 1995, sales were $3.48 billion. But the doing a better job telling apparel stories not have a new position yet and is keeping Reebok, we would talk about the great company has had a dramatic financial and focusing on collections, and not just his options open. Nonetheless, he is look- technology of the sneaker and I would turnaround in recent years. items. I believe this business is on its way.” ing to run a fashion company and is explor- note the color was ugly. You need the tech- Margolis was initially hired in January Margolis resigned from the athletic ing a number of opportunities. “I want to nology, but it also has to look good. There 2001 as president of Reebok’s specialty giant last week, and his position is being get involved in a company where I can help is a whole fashion side to the athletic business segment, which includes Rock- taken over by chairman and chief execu- them focus on their product,” he said. “I business that you have to have now.” port, as well as the Greg Norman and tive officer Paul Fireman after a transition- am looking at men’s and women’s firms. I Reebok has struggled with its branded Ralph Lauren lines, and he oversaw the al period through the end of November. wouldn’t mind running a conglomerate.” offerings at a time when the company’s company’s entrance into the licensed ap- Margolis asserted that the decision for him John Shanley, an analyst with overall sales and earnings have continued parel arena through deals with the to leave was mutual, and that it was precip- Susquehanna Financial Group, said he to climb. In the recent third quarter, U.S. National Basketball Association and the itated by Fireman’s interest in overseeing thought Margolis did a good job as apparel sales for the Reebok brand fell 2 National Football League. He became the company he started 25 years ago. Reebok’s president, evidenced by the percent to $204 million, with the decline president and chief operating officer of the “Paul wanted to reengage in running firm’s strong financial performance in re- due to branded apparel, while the licensed entire company one year later, and then the day-to-day operations of the business, cent quarters. “He was a valuable asset in apparel business continues to grow. The earlier this year, he also took over running and that was not the initial plan when I terms of building relationships with re- firm’s total sales were $1.16 billion, a 12 the Reebok brand following the departure joined the business,” Margolis said. “I tailers,” Shanley said. percent rise over last year’s third quarter. of Martin Coles. Margolis said he feels con- am 55 and I didn’t want to wait five more Reflecting on his accomplishments at Another problem may be with its appar- fident he is leaving at a time when the com- years for this kind of opportunity. Reebok, Margolis cited the company’s el pricing, according to Wall Street analysts. pany is poised for solid growth. “Paul is the best person to run the com- store openings in international cities such Shanley also noted the company is “There is a strong team in place now pany,” he added. “He is an owner, an en- as Beijing and Shanghai. He also pointed lagging behind in its international busi- and I have a lot of faith in the company trepreneur and a visionary. He can cut out the fast growth of the two-year-old Rbk ness, despite recent sales surges in that and the management,” he added.

rector, who will report to Heldrich and will be able to sell all the types of fabric Galey produces. The managing directors will be: Bob McCormack Court Approves Galey & Lord Takeover over sportswear; Jake Fraser over jeans; Paul Tantillo over uniforms and Rick Waide over specialty markets. By Scott Malone the firm filed for bankruptcy in February 2002, during All four are Galey veterans and will be based in Atlanta. a wave of filings that also swept Burlington Industries, The breakdown, Heldrich said, is “according to mar- NEW YORK — Galey & Lord is on firmer financial footing Malden Mills and Guilford Mills into the protective ket and customer segment. We think each can be a prof- following court approval of a takeover bid by Patriarch arms of the court. Galey emerged from bankruptcy in it center.” Partners LLC of New York worth up to $154 million. March and reentered court protection to smooth the Heldrich also named Al Blalock as senior vice pres- “This has been such a long journey through this way for Patriarch’s purchase. ident of operations and Tim Driver as senior vice pres- whole process and we finally have an investor that is in Lynn Tilton, principal of Patriarch, said Galey “has ident of international business relations. Previously, this with us for the long haul,” said John Heldrich, pres- an exceptional management team, an outstanding cus- Blalock oversaw Galey’s manufacturing operations and ident and chief executive officer of the Atlanta-based tomer base and a long track record of delivering quali- Driver was in charge of Swift’s. textile mill. “We’re going from a period of how to survive ty and innovative products.” With its new owners, the company will look more to how to thrive, and we can now look ahead finally.” Heldrich sketched out a new corporate structure for closely into the possibility of expanding its manufactur- The deal includes $40 million in cash, the assump- the firm. Galey had been primarily organized into two ing presence abroad, Heldrich said. tion of $80 million in revolving debt and up to $34 mil- units — Swift Denim and Galey & Lord— which pro- “Lower-cost regions are a serious consideration for lion in other liabilities to be determined by the Georgia duced khaki and corduroy fabrics. The divisions were a our future,” he said. bankruptcy court. legacy of the firm’s February 1998 acquisition of Swift. Heldrich added that “there is a tremendous em- Galey & Lord Inc. is set to emerge from bankruptcy Following the sale, Heldrich said, the firm will have phasis on reducing costs” under the new ownership. proceedings on Nov. 8, when the acquisition is sched- four divisions, divided by customer type rather than The firm currently employs 3,300 people. Heldrich uled to close. In August, the firm filed a Chapter 11 pe- product type. The new units are sportswear, jeans, uni- said some positions will be eliminated and others tition to pave the way for the deal. forms and specialty markets, which includes all nonap- added in the coming months, though he declined to After several years of cutbacks and plant closings, parel sales. Each unit will be headed by a managing di- discuss specifics.

Sales Merchandiser Account Manager SALES EXECUTIVE Senior account manager for high end Leather Handbag Co. est’d. 30 years seeks For newly created sweater exp’d. Sales Executive w/strong Dept./ Established Missy/Plus sizes ladies Italian fashion/lingerie company, with wear importer seeks highly qualified division of a major knitwear at least 10 years of experience selling Specialty Chain contacts to cultivate new &maintain existing accounts. Must be &exp’dseller with est’d & ongoing re- company for branded & private high end products to the top depart- lationships with moderate, specialty & ment stores. Must have excellent computer literate. E-mail (with subject label. Must have 5 yrs experi- reading "resume") to: [email protected] mass accounts to sell our new & excit- ence in sweater sales to major contacts at department stores, great ing career / casual line in missy & plus selling skills, willingness to travel, sizes. Must have min 10 yrs sales exp. accounts. Incredible opportunity good computer and communication Private Label Sales incl private label. Pls email with great compensation for abilities. Budgeting, forecasting, train- Excellent opportunity for a motivated [email protected] or ing, etc. Excellent salary and bonus sales professional to develop and grow call 212 221 6200 X230 the right individual. structure/benefits. Please email resume: business. Est’d Sportswear/Sweater Co. Fax resume to: 646-674-1246 [email protected] with its own factories seeks a self starter w /established private label account base & experience to do volume. Pls fax resume to 917-510-9778 Account Executive Wanted for top level European Fashion company. Candidate must have at SALES REP least 5 years experience with the sale DENIM Sales A new Active / Lifestyle label seeks of high end fashions to specialty stores aggressive and highly motivated sales Denim line seeks dynamic & exp’d. NY rep with proven contacts to cultivate new and have a good client list. Must be based Sales Executive. We can offer a very computer literate and ideally also account (or with existing nationwide great opportunity for an individual who Missy sportswear accounts). Strong fol- W. Village Shop speak Spanish. Superior client service has strong contacts with the Junior & Busy W. Village, need management / and willingness to travel. Excellent sal- lowing with Dept. stores, Specialty chains Contemporary Jeans Market. Please Fax and Catalogs. Please send resumes to: sales pros. Min 1 yr exp in shoes / ac- ary and bonus / benefits. Please send resume attn. SALES at: 212-643-8573 cessories. Fax Alida 212-675-6360. E-mail to: [email protected] Fax: (212) 202-3669