Beauty Four Front NEW YORK — It Certainly Was Giorgio Armani’S Week
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FISCHELIS TO MACY’S EAST/2 LIZ CLAIBORNE NET UP 14%/9 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • October 29, 2004 • $2.00 Beauty Four Front NEW YORK — It certainly was Giorgio Armani’s week. He took New York City by storm with a major fashion show, a party, a book signing, a luncheon and he even found time to talk about his quartet of fragrances, called Privé, that will be launched here and in Europe in December. At $185 a bottle, it will be his couture statement in fragrance and the latest entry in an emerging luxury-priced category. For more, see stories on pages 16 and 17. Beauty Makeover: Demsey Takes Over Estée Lauder Brand By Julie Naughton and Pete Born Lauder brand. Group, will continue to oversee NEW YORK — Estée Lauder Cos. Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, the Lauder’s development while shook up its top management lineup group president who has run the Demsey directs the brand. Thursday by naming MAC Lauder division since 2001 while Bousquet-Chavanne will focus Cosmetics president John Demsey also supervising MAC and the more fully on strategic initiatives, as president of its flagship Estée Aramis and Designer Fragrance See New, Page 13 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDFRIDAY Macy’s East Taps Fischelis for RTW Beauty By David Moin primarily a moderate-to-better-priced chain. FASHION Early in her career, she worked in a buying office In Los Angeles, Pamella Protzel had a weekend getaway, Jenni Kayne riffed NEW YORK — Macy’s East has taken the high road in Paris that represented stores such as Neiman on American sportswear, Ashley Paige went “Sweet Home Alabama.” to pump up its fashion office. Marcus, Marshall Field’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and 10 Nicole Fischelis, a marquee name in fashion Holt Renfrew. She came to the U.S. in 1991 to work and a veteran of Saks Fifth Avenue and Salvatore for Saks, where she stayed for 10 years and held the Ferragamo, will join the 81-unit Macy’s East chain title of vice president and women’s fashion director. GENERAL Estée Lauder Cos. shook up its top management lineup by naming MAC on Nov. 29 as vice president and fashion director After Saks, she joined Ferragamo as senior vice pres- for ready-to-wear, according to Ron Klein, chair- ident of fashion worldwide, and has most recently 1 Cosmetics president John Demsey as president of its signature brand. man and chief executive officer of Macy’s East. been doing some fashion consulting in Europe. Nicole Fischelis, a veteran of Saks Fifth Avenue and Salvatore Ferragamo, is “This is a big job,” said Klein, who disclosed the Klein said it’s not a stretch to bring Fischelis to 2 joining Macy’s East as vice president and fashion director for rtw. appointment of Fischelis in an Macy’s. “Our core customer is exclusive interview Thursday. different from the channels Liz Claiborne Inc. saw net income for the third quarter jump 14 percent to He explained Fischelis will where she spent significant 9 $111.6 million, as sales increased 11.3 percent to $1.31 billion. have responsibilities for trend- amount of time working. How- spotting and fashion forecasting ever, if you look at the trends for ready-to-wear, and will work across product categories, you SUZY closely with the merchant, mar- will see that they are frequently Jennifer Lopez clears a cool $10 million for the sale of her Beverly Hills keting and visual teams, ulti- represented in every channel,” 8 mansion…The royal grandkids grow up…Bridget’s bra woes. mately helping to shape the mix Klein said. He believes that on the selling floors. American consumers are “fash- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................22-23 In addition, Fischelis will ion-savvy” regardless of where To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is help select merchandise for they shop, be it Macy’s, Target [email protected], using the individual’s name. catalogues and translate the or Saks, and that retailers and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 season’s trends to in-store spe- manufacturers, through tech- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. cial events, such as trunk nologies such as computer- VOLUME 188, NO. 92. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional shows. She will also serve as aided design, are much faster to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 the voice of Macy’s on what’s interpret trends seen initially West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; hot and what’s selling, and will on the runways and generally Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior be attending fashion shows in sold first at higher-priced and Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- New York and Europe. luxury stores. He said with President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Fischelis will report to Fischelis on board, Macy’s can additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. Karen Smith-Harvey, senior more readily seize fashion POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. vice president, fashion forecast- trends. Being fast on trends, he FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR ing and trend direction. Others said, “is one of the biggest ways DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new in the fashion office, which to drive top-line volume.” subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive If you look at the trends across product categories, you will these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. “ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED see that they are frequently represented in every channel. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED — Ron Klein, Macy’s East TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. began rebuilding its team this year, include Steve In a statement, Fischelis said, “I am very happy Cardino, vice president and men’s fashion director, to come back to New York which I have missed and and Russell Orlando, vice president and fashion di- is a home for me. Macy’s is America’s store with a rector for center core. Fischelis moves into a spot history and most importantly a vision.” Quote of the Week previously held by Joe Denofrio, who shifted over to It’s not the first time that Macy’s has recruited the home store. fashion executives from pricier retailers. Ellin Fischelis was born in France and comes from a Saltzman, a former Saks Fifth Avenue senior vice family of furriers. While the activities she takes on president and director of fashion and product de- “It’s the new Polo.” at Macy’s are similar to the tasks she performed in velopment, joined Macy’s in 1989 as senior vice her previous jobs, most of her experience has been president and corporate fashion director. She left — Ralph Lauren, during a tour centered on designer merchandise and businesses in 1992 to join Bergdorf Goodman, and, later, of his Rugby store in Boston. that are high-end compared with Macy’s, which is Limited Brands. In Brief Guess 3Q Profits Vault 76.6% ● POWER SHIFT: Prada declined to comment on a report in NEW YORK — Double-digit gains in royalties million from $10.1 million. Italian daily MF that it has tapped former San Paolo IMI banker and product sales sent earnings soaring for “We recently announced the planned acquisi- Carlo Mazzi to fill a newly created but yet-to-be-named position Guess Inc.