TheVolume 45, ArêteSummer 2016 Steep & Stinky Skiing in Northern Norway Page 26

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse Page 28

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks Page 20

Guiding, Exams and Pregnancy Page 34 Contents Editorial Features President’s Perspective 4 Steep & Stinky - Skiing in Northern Norway 24 Tucker Talk 4 Guides at Play: Selkirks Ski Traverse 28 Canadian Climbing Championships 32 Guiding, Exams and Pregnancy 34 News Backcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery 36 CMSG Program Update 6 A Brief History of Derriere Crag 38 Technical Director’s Report 8

Introducing a highly technical, lightweight IFMGA News 10 double boot engineered for alpinists. MCR / Informalex Committee Report 11 Technical Built the Arc’teryx way. Professional Practices Committee Report 11 Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack Review 40 ACMG Partnership Program Update 12 Acr'teryx Acrux SL Approach Shoe Review 42 Continuing Professional Development Report 14 Delorme inReach Review 44 ACMG Scholarship News 15 Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel Review 46 Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted Area 16 Member Updates Spotlight on ACMG Members Diapers and Vows 48 Changes in ACMG Membership 49 ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding 18 ACMG Officers, Directors, Advisors, New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from Justin Dwyer 20 Staff and Committees 50 Proud supporter of:

The Arête “The rope connecting two men on a mountain is more than nylon protection; it is an organic thing that transmits subtle messages of intent and disposition from man to man; it is an extension of the tactile senses, a psychological bond, a wire along which currents of communication flow.” - Trevanian, The Eiger Sanction

Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arête attempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. Ar- ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all. Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee. Article submissions and advertising information Submission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website. Submit articles and ads to [email protected]

Cover photo: The late Guy Edwards on the 2nd ascent (with a needle variant) of The Chilton-Must route (TD 5.10, 240m) which encom- passed the east Buttress of the Blade and continued to the summit of Stiletto Peak in the Waddington Range, BC. Photo - Jia Condon The Arête 2 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 3 The Arête Editorial

ins to ensure the member is managing the stress, providing suit against our member. What I release to everyone, especially President’s Perspective assistance in working through all the details, locating re- the media, has to be carefully crafted. By Marc Ledwidge sources (including counselling) as needed and generally help- People have two years from the date of the incident to file ing to navigate the inevitable maelstrom that follows serious a statement of claim if they wish to initiate a law suit. After that With the ACMG now at well over one process that would motivate members to seriously evaluate incidents. time, the amount of information we can release increases, al- thousand members, the task of managing the consequences of dropping their membership, regardless If the incident stems from an avalanche, then the ACMG lowing us to examine the situation for useful learning. applications for new membership or rein- of the reasons, before doing so. The reinstatement process needs to collaborate with various other associations or com- The ACMG has recently struck a quality assurance commit- statement of former members has become also needs to ensure that you as members are no longer pay- panies. Avalanche Canada is the nexus for all things avalanche tee, chaired by Mountain Guide Mark Klassen. This committee is quite a workload for the ACMG staff. In ing for a service that we provide to non-members. in the public realm, so they are often the first to be called by charged with establishing the procedures we need to follow when the case of new applications, we of course, By the time this goes to print, your Board of Directors media. They refer the media to us or to the CAA if there is a an accident occurs. In late May, ACMG President Marc Ledwidge, warmly welcome new members who have will have discussed options to completely cost recover these professional avalanche worker involved. Additionally in this Technical Director Marc Piché and I met with Karl Klassen from recently passed exams through Thompson membership reinstatements. One of the challenges for the situation, we will often collaborate with the CAA and some- Avalanche Canada, who is working with the BC Coroner’s office Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, administration staff is to be able to invoice and get paid by times the BLBCA to determine the best support for the worker. on investigation procedures. It’s clear that we need to improve all applications are relatively easy to process. When it comes to applicants requesting reinstatement. Since they are not mem- If there has been a serious injury or fatality to a client, I our processes to ensure our protocols are integrated across all the reinstatements, or people applying greater than one year after bers, we cannot simply charge their account. There have been immediately notify the ACMG insurance broker and adjuster. relevant organizations. This will reduce duplication and increase completing their exam, the process can be more complicated cases where applicants seeking reinstatement have dropped They contact our lawyer and begin the process of determining clarity around what we all can and should do when disaster strikes. and quite time consuming for the Technical Director (TD), the their request, presumably after deciding that they did not like that our member, and therefore the ACMG, has been properly So what about a Conduct Review? What if the member Technical Committee (TC) and the administration staff. requirements set by the TC. In some cases, the costs incurred covered. Here is where the complexities start. If the potential may have breached the ACMG Code of Conduct in one or more Given our primary mandate, the TD and TC have a respon- by the Association have not been recovered. Currently, we for a law suit exists, the information gathered by the insurance ways? Do we sanction someone who has just gone through a sibility to ensure that aspirant members are at a current stan- charge a $100 administrative fee for reinstatements. In most team becomes closely held in order to reduce the chances of a terrible trauma or do we deny our prime mandate of protect- dard prior to being readmitted as active members at any of cases, that fee does not cover the cost of the real work outlined successful suit. Many people and organizations want to know ing the public interest? Can we use the information gathered in their previous certification levels. This is done by evaluating above. I will be proposing that anyone requesting reinstate- what happened, but we are constrained in what we can and the investigation or do we need to do another, perhaps with a work history, related recreational resume, references, recom- ment as active members pay a much larger sum up front before should make public in case there is something that would en- different perspective? These are difficult questions which your mendations, and the amount of time that has lapsed since the the application will be considered. The idea is similar to a legal courage or assist future litigation against the member. Board and I will be working to answer in the near future. Just person was last a member. The TC then outlines what the retainer where the amount of time that the TD and TC spends This push-pull is hard on the member who is already know that we will continue to do whatever we can to support applicant must do before being reinstated. This can include on the file will be billed against that fee. Once the reinstate- somewhat traumatized, and difficult to reconcile with those any member who finds him/herself in such a situation. but is not limited to further references, CPDs, training with a ment is completed, assuming that the amount of time spent who are interested in learning from the situation. We would Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg Creek, TRU instructor or repeating part or all of a certification stream. on the file is less than the up front fee, the applicant would like to be as transparent about the incident as we can, but we AB. The amount of time that the volunteer members of the TC and get a refund. This is of course exclusive of membership fees. can’t risk that this might increase the likelihood of a successful the paid TD spends on this can add up quickly. In other words, In more complicated cases, the applicant may also get asked you, as members, are currently paying for this. for further funds before the process can continue. I hope that There are a number of reasons why ACMG members decide these changes will ensure a process that is fair to both you as to drop their membership. They can be related to career or members and to applicants seeking reinstatement. Have a lifestyle changes, geographic moves, or financial constraints. I great summer! would like to see some changes in our current reinstatement Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff, AB. It Runs Tucker Talk By Peter Tucker It Rides This past winter the unthinkable happened investigation may be commissioned. Although the interests when one of our members lost a client in a are somewhat different, there may also be collaboration with tragic avalanche. That’s one of the powerful the coroner so that investigations aren’t duplicated. things about avalanches – their effects of- So what’s the role of the ACMG in these situations? Well, ten extend beyond the runout zones. the answer is a bit complex and, in some cases, depends on It Climbs When an incident such as this occurs, the actions of others. many things kick into gear. Organiza- As Executive Director, I have responsibilities toward both tions such as the RCMP, the coroner and the member(s) involved as well as the Association itself. These (It Disappears) WorkSafeBC take the investigative lead responsibilities include: Patagonia’s Houdini ® Jacket to determine cause of death, factors leading up to the fatal- • Supporting our member(s) patagonia.com/opportunist ity, issues relating to workplace regulations and whether any • Liaising with other organizations such as the CAA, Avalanche learning can come from the situation to inform possible future Canada, Heli-Cat Canada, Backcountry Lodges of BC etc. recommendations. • Liaising between the member(s) and our insurance team Simultaneously, the insurance underwriter, broker, adjust- • Responding to media calls © 2016 Patagonia, Inc. er and lawyer(s) collaborate to determine whether the possi- bility of a lawsuit exists, in which case a file is opened and an Member support usually takes the form of regular check-

The Arête 4 Summer 2016 SummerPAT_S16_Houdini_ACMGArete_HP.indd 2016 1 5 5/27/16The 4:48 PMArête News Eastern Canada Hiking Guide Course • Travel techniques (with snowshoes and traction devices or Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide walking crampons) As previously reported in the Arete a Hiking Guide course was • Winter camping Program Update recently completed (May 24-June 1) at Lake Placid, New York. • Interpretation in the winter environment By Dwayne Congdon The course was intended for guides based in Eastern Canada and included 6 participants. The course used terrain in the Ad- irondack Mountains which proved to be ideal for the course Changes to Movement Skills Screening Thanks objectives. The instructors were Helen Sovdat and Bjarne Baek. (Skiing and Riding) The listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the Ski Guide certificate and the listed climbing facilities generously provided their venue for at least one Climbing Gym Instructor course over the past winter season. Prior Learning Assessment and Recognition Any person planning to apply to Guide Training Skiing is wel- This support is critical to the successful conduct of Guide Training Skiing courses, Ski Guide exams, and the Climbing come to screen their movement skills prior to applying. This is Gym Instructor Program. (PLAR) recommended for applicants who are unsure their movement This spring four Ski Guides and two NOLS instructors used skills are at the screening standard. PLAR to obtain a Hiking Guide certificate of equivalency. See Starting in 2017 applicants who pass the screening will Ski Guide Stream Climbing Gym Instructor Program Changes in ACMG Membership on page 49 for names. be allowed to carry their result forward into Guide Training Charlie Locke (Lake Louise Ski Resort) Elevation Place — Canmore, AB Skiing and will not be required to re-screen. Revelstoke Mountain Resort The Boulders Climbing Gym — Sannichton, BC Two screening sessions are scheduled to take place on Jan. Winter Hiking Course 20 — one at Whistler Blackcomb and one at Kicking Horse Sutton Place Hotel Climb Base5 Climbing Gym — Coquitlam, BC Resort. Contact the CMSG program office for further details. Whistler Heli-Skiing Ground Up Climbing Centre — Squamish, BC This optional course is intended for Assistant Hiking Guides and Hiking Guides who wish to guide in winter conditions. Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort The Calgary Climbing Centre (Hanger) — Calgary, AB This two-day course replaces the ACMG’s winter travel accredi- Dwayne Congdon is an ACMG Mountain Guide and coordinator Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing Wilson Climbing Centre, University of Alberta — Edmonton tation process. The course takes place in Lake Louise, December of the CMSG Program at Thompson Rivers University in Kam- Great Canadian Heli-skiing Junction Climbing Centre — London, ON 11, 12. loops, BC. CMH Revelstoke Course content will focus on: Arrow Helicopters • Winter hazards (including avoiding avalanche terrain) Alpine Helicopters • Client care in winter conditions CMH Adamants Silver King Helicopters 2016 Ski Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass Rates Pass rates are posted below to allow ACMG members to monitor how effectively the CMSG program is preparing candidates to meet ACMG standards.

2016 2015 2014 Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Apprentice Ski Guidea 27 81% 24 87% 27 85% Ski Guide 33 82% 21 76% 36 67%

Top Rope Climbing Instructorb 24 100% 31 100% 16 100%

Climbing Gym Instructor 1 46 96% 90 96% 80 90% Climbing Gym Instructor 2 4 75% 4 75% 11 100%

a One appeal pending and one re-test pending b One course still pending

Claire Dixon & Cornelius Brenninkmeyer Award Guide Training Skiing student who has demonstrated: 1. Excellent leadership and people skills This award is in memory of Claire Dixon and Cornelius Brennink- meyer who died in a snow caving accident in January 2007. Corne- 2. Excellent technical skills lius was a student in the Ski Guide Certificate. 3. Superior attention to safety during guide training The recipient is chosen by CMSG instructors and presented to a The 2016 award recipient is Christine Feleki.

The Arête 6 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 7 The Arête News

Canada and a smattering around the globe including Chi- nadian Mountain & Ski Guide Program. Students are quickly Technical Director’s Report na, Japan and the UK. learning what level of dedication and training is necessary to be By Marc Piché We are currently working with Arc’teryx to help them successful in this program. move towards including other guides associations includ- This year we also had our first observation from the IF- Via Ferrata We have had a handful of applications for extensions ing the American Mountain Guides Association and several MGA. Unfortunately the exam was being held during the over the course of the winter but only one new one was ap- interested countries in Europe. IFMGA meetings so they were only able to observe on a Under the leadership of ACMG Mountain proved. The applications that were rejected were based on training course. This was an important next step for us in Guide James Blench, the Technical Commit- terms of determining the required work before Russia can poor time and career management, although challenging, Variances tee has been working on a draft proposal for this is specifically what this policy is attempting to manage. be admitted into the IFMGA as a candidate country. our Via Ferrata training program. It is cur- At the end of the 2016 Ski Guide exam season, there The Technical Committee has approved two variances for the Another significant step forward taken this year was rently being reviewed by stakeholders and were three members who missed the timeline and will coming summer. They are for the Mount Norquay Via Ferrata that it was the first time we used a Russian instructor on will be communicated to the membership loose their status as ACMG Apprentice Ski Guides. They will and Yamnuska's Cadet Camp Glacier Program. They can be a training course. This was an important first step towards once we have a better understanding of how be able to reapply for membership but will be required to viewed in more detail on the ACMG website. There is a third the Russian Mountain Guides Association becoming more the process will work. do some upgrading prior to be accepted and will be given variance currently being reviewed by the committee but due to independent in the future. The training program and certification will be strictly for a date by which time they will have to challenge the Ski the late application date, it will not be complete by the begin- the low risk, high ratio Via Ferrata installations with a very Guide exam. ning of the summer season. Marc Piché, a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director high level of operational risk management and oversight. If you passed an Apprentice exam in 2013 and have not lives in Canmore, AB. Initially it will likely only be available to existing ACMG yet completed the final, certificate exam in that stream (or Russian Mountain Guides Association members in the Top Rope Climbing Instructor, Ski Guide the Apprentice Alpine exam for Apprentice Rock Guides and Hiking Guide streams and eventually, we will build a wishing to become Alpine Guides), this is your year! This year we ran our second Ski Guide exam in the Mount El- stand alone course that will better serve operators in East- brus area with the pass rates being similar to that of the Ca- ern Canada and other areas where there is a low density of existing ACMG members. ACMG’s Role in Accidents and Incidents It is becoming increasingly evident that the ACMG must de- Manuals termine and define what its roles, responsibilities and goals are with regards to accidents and incidents. This is a very complex The Climbing Gym Instructor manual was more or less com- subject that is influenced by legal and cultural issues as well as pleted this winter and has been used on CGI courses this spring the various other agencies and stakeholders involved. Over the with positive feedback so far. ACMG Webmaster Chris Miller is winter, Executive Director Peter Tucker and myself have been still working on the final touches for incorporating the instruc- involved in numerous phone calls and email threads with the tional videos and we hope to have the completed version soon as Canadian Avalanche Association, Backcountry Lodges of British an EPUB document available on iBooks and other retailers soon. Columbia, Avalanche Canada and HeliCat Canada in an effort Creating this manual laid the foundation for how we can to answer the many questions we are all facing. proceed with the technical manual for the Mountain Guide The ACMG has had an Accident Committee working on stream. I have dedicated significant time to the Technical aspects of this subject and we will be looking at how to in- Manual project for this summer. corporate their findings while meeting ACMG goals. More to come… Canadian Avalanche Association Terrain Competency Committee Arc’teryx Mountain Conditions Report I continue to be involved in this committee however progress has (MCR) App been very slow over the winter with a few conference calls and The MCR website and IOS mobile phone app were launched some email threads. Although a bit slower than everyone hoped, to the public mid-March and have been generally well received. I believe the direction will prove to be positive for all avalanche Arc’teryx is in the process of working on version 2 which will professionals in Canada. include several upgrades with a focus on more filters both while The ACMG’s continued role as a stakeholder in this dis- viewing reports on the map and in list mode. cussion is important as the outcome will affect the respon- Arc’teryx has not yet promoted the MCR in their own sibilities of all CAA professional members. social media campaign and plans to do so at some point during the summer. This will greatly increase visits to the Apprentice Guide Timelines site however so far the level of interest has been quite high given that our only promotion has been through ACMG We continue to work on educating members about the Appren- channels. tice Guide timelines at various stages of their careers. It seems As of the end of May the website has seen over 54,000 that over time people are generally becoming more understand- page views by nearly 11,000 users! So far the app has been ing of the details of this policy and the reasons behind it. downloaded nearly 700 times with the majority being in View of the Caucasus Mountains from 4000m on Mt. Elbrus during the RMGA Ski Guide Exam - Photo Marc Piché

The Arête 8 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 9 The Arête News IFMGA News MCR / Informalex Committee Report By Marc Ledwidge By Larry Stanier

I attended the IFMGA meetings in Sicily, Italy in early May. President, Pierre Mathey, put forward a motion that would The big news in this little department is the certainly be criticized for being “Rockies-centric”. In the future Technical Director Marc Piché was unable to be there as he require a double majority on voting on all issues. This would new Mountain Conditions Report website. we would like to try again to organize MCR summaries for the was still committed in Russia. To quote him, “the President mean that each country would retain its current number of If you haven’t done so (shame on you :-) Coast range and possibly a summary specific to the Interior had to attend without his security detail”. Over the past year, votes but that a majority of member countries would also be check it out at www.mountainconditions. ranges. If anyone has any interest in being involved in either of the biggest issues facing the IFMGA have been the election required for motions to pass. In other words, a country like com. Follow the instructions to sign up and those projects please get in touch with the MCR / Informalex of a new President and the move towards a double majority Canada would more or less have an equal voice to a country start adding reports! committee. [email protected] on voting. like Switzerland. This is a big step and indicative of the com- I would really like to thank John Houss- Finally, thanks to the MCR / Informalex committee for mitment of the IFMGA towards inclusiveness. The vote was Incumbents Hanno Doenz from Austria and Christian er, Kyle Goertzen, James Bronson, Jurgen their work and especially Tom Wolfe for making the original almost unanimous with Spain surprisingly voting against this Trommsdorff from France were both running for President. Watts and Raluca Axente from Arc’teryx. They have all been email system work so smoothly all these years. There are no change (they currently have one vote). It was very encour- Christian won the election. He has been actively involved great to work with and have made the transition surprisingly changes planned to the current guide’s Informalex. on the board, is a dual national of France and Germany and aging to see countries like France. Switzerland, Austria and smooth. Our Technical Director Marc Piché did most of the is fluent in French, German and English. His platform was to Germany that hold the majority of votes support this motion. initial work from the ACMG’s end and now it is being admin- commit to a mandate of inclusiveness with all of the IFMGA Other recent positive changes include the addition of istered by the ACMG Admin Assistant Elaine Powers. I mostly Larry Stanier, an ACMG Mountain Guide and the MCR / Infor- countries. two directors outside of the founding countries in mainland just tried to stay out of their way. malex Committee Chair, lives in Canmore, AB The double majority vote was interesting. In the current western Europe. The board now includes a director from the The MCR summaries for the Rockies and Columbia Moun- system, each of the 23 member countries gets one vote for UK (Mark Diggins) and one from Sweden (Mike Wright). Inci- tains will continue to fill in the gap between the end and start of every 100 IFMGA Mountain Guides. Canada gets two votes dentally, a double majority is what the ACMG is considering the Public Avalanche forecasting season. These summaries can as we have between 100 and 200 Mountain Guides. France, as a possible solution to the inequalities on voting for bylaw Austria and Switzerland with well over 1000 Mountain Guides changes. Currently, only Mountain Guides can vote on these. each get 12 to 13 votes. There are currently a total of 71 votes. If a double majority was adopted, all members could vote This means that in the past, countries like Canada, the USA and a majority of all members plus a majority of Mountain Professional Practices Committee Report or New Zealand with only one or two votes would have little Guides would be required. More info on the IFMGA can be to no influence especially if the western European countries found at: http://www.ivbv.info/en/home.html By Nathan Dahl colluded on an issue. Last fall, the Swiss Guides Association Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff, AB. This past fall, the Professional Practices maintaining or enhancing the currency of one’s knowledge in a Committee delivered its second audit to specific area of practice. The required technical skills are unique another 20 randomly selected members. As to one’s practice, and can only be adequately determined by the before, the selected members were asked to individual. If you are uncertain whether or not a course meets submit records of their professional practice the ACMG CPD requirements for your membership stream and continuing professional development consult the Continuing Professional Development document (CPD) for the past two years as well as a on the ACMG member website under Governance > CPD or copy of their current First Aid certificate. send me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate. Each file was then reviewed by two members of the Pro- By the time you are reading this, the committee will have fessional Practices Committee. If all conditions of membership delivered the next round of audits to another 20 members and were met, the member received an "Unconditional Pass". If one will be in the process of reviewing their files. If you have any or more of the conditions of membership were not met, the questions or comments about the audit process, don't hesitate member received a "Provisional Pass". to get in touch with me at [email protected]. Of the 20 members who were selected for the audit, 17 passed without conditions and 3 received provisional passes. As Nathan Dahl, Chair of the Professional Practices Committee, is an the intent of the committee is educational and corrective rather ACMG Hiking Guide from Calgary, AB than punitive, at this point no one has been asked to go inactive or resign. There are several reasons that one might not pass an au- The Sharp End Shell : dit. Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate, insufficient Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEX® professional development, insufficient professional practice, or Pro for waterproof breathable protection. sufficient but inappropriate professional practice or professional development are all valid grounds for not passing. There is also some confusion as to what can count towards CPD hours. While some training is relatively straightforward (ACMG refreshers, BlackDiamondEquipment.com CMSG training programs, Avalanche Canada courses, Interpre- tive Guides Association courses), there is no single method for

The Arête 10 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 11 The Arête News The ACMG technical cap is here! ACMG Partnership Program Update The Escapa hat from Arc’teryx is a technical trucker hat con- By Ken Bélanger structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back. The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily. The ACMG and its members are power- thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the The reflective Arc’teryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ful centres of influence in the international ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear. Pro Purchase infor- ACMG logo on the opposite side. outdoor recreation world, particularly in mation is posted on the member website. Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax, the winter arena. The ACMG Partnership but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Program seeks to leverage this influence by G3 – Genuine Guide Gear Arc’teryx, we’re able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG creating partnerships with leading suppliers. G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan, members! These partnerships involve cash, products, our highest category! They’ve committed to a fourth year of Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes: S-M (55-57cm) & co-branding and cross-marketing to help the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program, watch for details L-XL (58-60cm). Arc’teryx hat sizing chart the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in this fall. Limited quantities, and only available for purchase at Mountain Travel. ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting. Arc’teryx inReach Canada PARTNERSHIPS Our #1 Partner continues to shine. Together we’ve created a new Equipment Award. Two ACMG recipients each year will inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning Arc’teryx ACMG technical cap Please welcome the newest ACMG Partners! receive $2000 in Arc’teryx equipment! Application details are of the year. When in the remote backcountry, don’t just send an on the members section of the ACMG website under Our OK message; use your device to send texts, get weather forecasts love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help. Osprey Packs Canada Members > Scholarships Awards > Partner Scholarships and more! ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com- Dynafit The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the Arc’teryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex munication plans. ACMG. Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing Pro jackets to our association! We have every size available Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner. Our partner- for ACMG members. The same company distributes Exped in except medium in both men’s and women’s. You can pur- Intuition ship will improve the communication between ACMG members Canada, so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well. chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs, AGM etc) Remember ACMG guests qualify for 15% off any Intuition Liner and Dynafit North America, as well as streamline the Pro Pur- for only $150! on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code. Give chase program. adidas Sport Eyewear them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions – they adidas prides itself on the highest quality optics. They are EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film & Book Festival The ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award. The ex- posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig- nificant. We had a new high- profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre. Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America. ACMG exhibitor booth. Photo - Ken Bélanger

Arc’teryx Climbing Academy I look forward to seeing you at this year’s Annual General The ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arc’teryx Meeting in Canmore October 15-16. All our Partners are in- Climbing Academy in Squamish, BC July 14-17, 2016. vited to the Partner Expo. Come check out the newest prod- ucts, network directly with brands, and attend custom clinics for ACMG members. We have many events planned for 2016. We’re always happy The ACMG’s current list of Partners can be found here for help at any of them, and I’ll make sure you get some swag and on the back cover of this issue of The Arête. for your efforts. If you can help out, please drop me a line at [email protected]. Please support our Partners, as they support the ACMG! Arc’teryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket. Ken Bélanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore, AB and outdoor offices all over the world. The Arête 12 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 13 The Arête News ACMG Continuing Professional Development Report ACMG Scholarship News By Alison Dakin By Derek Wilding Hello fellow members! A big thumbs up for clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Arc'teryx Equipment Award ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentor’s expenses in the excellent participation of our members Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff, Golden and bringing the applicant along on the trip – funds are then sent to in the various CPD workshops and presenta- Revelstoke). The generous folks at Arc’teryx have come through again in the the mentor form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain tions of the past year. During the 2015 CPD One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses • People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to stream. The new Arc'teryx Equipment Award will be distributed events in Squamish, Canmore and Revelstoke and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arc'teryx to almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts, within the ACMG membership. From our recent member sur- individual instructor, coach or trainer for specific training use towards their gear. with many of the workshops being sold out. vey, we received some great feedback for new courses, as well as Applications can be found in the members section of the The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex- some requests to re-do the better ones from the past. If you have Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria, so ACMG website under Our Members > Scholarships Awards > pansion of the program to 3 days per event other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know. If you be sure your application specifically highlights your: Gmoser Mentorship Fund with 3 different locales used. Each year there will be a coastal, have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop • Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountains There is no deadline for this application as they can be made interior and a Rockies event. The goal is to provide opportunities or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right • Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures, any time of year. for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the to the source. Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or activities and/or in daily life events are scheduled in each area. another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes- • Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain ACMG Scholarships During each 3 day event, technical field courses will be bal- sional from another realm who has skills and information to sports In addition, applications for many other financial awards and anced with soft skill workshops; case histories and informational offer and share with our members. It is this type of networking • Stewardship of the environment funded training can be found on the member website, including presentations will be linked to the popular “social” event. Atten- that brings the best from within our association, as well as access Arc’teryx Product Development Training Fund the: tion will be given to utilize the region’s best attributes for access to to quality new people and ideas. • Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice rock, snow, ice, climbing gyms, flora and fauna and locally based Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro- Arc’teryx has also graciously created a training award directed Guides) instructors. cess at [email protected] Have a safe, fun and rewarding summer! specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of • D’Arcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course In addition to the 3-day events, we will also continue to pursuing certification. The award will cover 3 days of training subsidy) hold several one-off sessions in different places. These will include Alison Dakin, an ACMG Ski & Hiking Guide and the Continuing with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also • Arc’teryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500, $1000, workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger Professional Development Coordinator, lives in Golden, BC provide Arc’teryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain and $1500) city centres where these members often reside. They will also in- valuable product feedback from the recipients. • Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies) Digital application forms for the Arc’teryx Equipment Award Continued on page 45... and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members > Scholarships Awards > Partner Scholarships Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband, Robson Gmoser, this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification. Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides. He believed that the re- lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success. Eligibility • People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers University’s Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun- tain, hiking or climbing instructor programs) – they do not need to be ACMG members yet • ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer- tification level

Selection Criteria • Strength of application • Strength of reference

Award Left to right, ACMG members Helen Sovdat, Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD. Photo - Jorg WIlz • People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

The Arête 14 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 15 The Arête News Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted Area By Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16, 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and to teach the field day of an AST 1 course. My group carpooled note the following: in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 1.5 hours • Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highway while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal • It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park Canadian Army using the Howitzers. Permit while working in the National Parks • The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine) teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye- I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava- sight of the vehicles. What I did not realize is that by mak- lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were my misconduct. still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA). This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high- Sabina Wodak, an ACMG Ski Guide, lives in Revelstoke, BC way and then wondered where we had gone.

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per- mit in my truck in Revelstoke.

THANK YOU FOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH COMMUNITY, AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS! ASK QUESTIONS. TRY SOMETHING NEW. STEP EXCEED EXPECTATIONS. OUTSIDE

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration. G3’s exclusive ACMG Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September. PRO.GENUINEGUIDEGEAR.COM 16,750 observations submitted 7,378 routes planned 8,125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented WWW.AVATECH.COM

The Arête 16 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 17 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

years back. Over a period of several weeks she went from ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding having never climbed before to completing a 5.8 lead climb including the anchor thread/clean with only minimal verbal movement coaching. I was really impressed by her determi- nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding, as initially I’d completely written off the idea of her lead climbing. What else should the readers know that you haven’t told us? I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership. If you have questions, comments or concerns specific to the As- sociation, don’t hesitate to reach out. I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee – consider this a reminder to get your ap- plications in so our funds, scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification! What does the future hold in store for you? It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com- ing year. There’s been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and there’s now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games, which could reshape the industry as we currently know it. Regardless of where the sport goes, I plan to be active in the industry in some way, shape or form. I’m fortunate to have a career in a field that I’m passionate about, so it rarely feels like work and I’m hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can.

AP_Montebianco_4.6x7.5_inches.indd 1 20/05/2016 14:48:51 ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding. Photo - Neal Finney

In this issue we profile the ACMG’s Director of Specialty How would describe your experience going through the exam process? Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide, Climb- The exam process was both challenging and rewarding. Like ing Gym Instructor 3, CMSG instructor/examiner, Chair of most CMSG students, I’d invested a lot of time and money the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure ACMG President’s Award. to succeed. I found the exam process stressful and at times a Where did your love of the mountains come from? little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc- Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from tors and examiners, and in retrospect found the experience to home. I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week- be invaluable. ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood What jobs / roles / positions have you had over the years related to friend’s older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a the outdoors? day. Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I I’ve worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG had in the mountains, often skipping school and hitchhik- member. Some of the highlights include; Alberta Parks Pub- NEW SERIES ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook lic Safety, Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and until I was old enough to drive. more recently The Glencoe Club, Instructor and Examiner for What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs, Contract KAMBER/KRESTA instructor? Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada, Lectur- Access all areas I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen, er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University, Osprey’s tried-and-true backcountry Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on – these Subject Matter Expert, and Independent Guide, to name a few. organization and carrying features learned guys were making a living climbing, instructing and guiding and What is your most memorable guiding/instructional experience? from a long history of designing and using ski provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to I’ve had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb- packs, now offered with a gender-specific pursue a career as an instructor and guide. Later on, while going ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe- design and fit. through University, others like Brian Spear, Todd Guyn and Chris ospreypacks.com riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification. The Arête 18 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 19 7-1/4 x 4-3/8 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb- “Splitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario. He also works all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear- as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in lier completion date. With the single comprehensive book, Ajax, Ontario. we were constantly worried about the book's overall size He has been climbing and documenting routes on the and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively count. After all, no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and for a half-day of cragging. But by splitting the book, we collecting. Over the years, he was given the prestigious were also able to give the layout some breathing room. Or title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author to reference the classic Step Brothers scene, some “activity David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65% of space.” That space has transformed the book into something the 300+ routes at that cliff. But really, his level of comple- larger than just a phone book of routes. The quotes, stories, tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag. He is the little jokes, climber bios, old photos, charming diagrams all undisputed master of the Escarpment’s weird, esoteric and help create a richer experience. It's a way for climbers to obscure. connect with the area's history and culture.” Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario, into great Ontario Climbing; Vol. 1 is currently for sale at most instructors. Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 & 2 of The Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos. Jus- through MEC for $28. Vol. 2 is still nearing completing but tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow watch for it soon! the climbing community and, safety awareness. He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and Photo / Tim Kemple and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto, ON us in Ontario look up to. Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks: TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLOR.indd 1 5/30/16 11:04 AM The Arête 20 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 21 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

John Wilson bouldering on "Breaking Bad (V2)" at Rockbound Lake, Banff, AB. Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on "A Particular Manner of Expression (12a)" , Ha Ling Peak. Photo - Gery Unterasinger

Aurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River. Photo - Maarten Van Haeren The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of "Skywalk" ED1 5.9 on Mt. Tiedemann with Mt. Waddington behind. Photo - Jia Condon

The Arête 22 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 23 The Arête Features Steep and Stinky A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern Norway By Cam McLellan

Our home for the next two months. Kabelvag, Norway. Photo - Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden. Lofoten, Norway. Photo - Laura Kroesen

It’s hard to even think of where this story should begin. This past “Well I can’t really say much about next winter but if you winter (for myself and my girlfriend, Laura Kroesen) was one are free this year I’d definitely have some work for you” that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure - Seth Hobby, Northern Alpine Guides, Kabelvag, of my career. The season started off in Canada by enjoying the Norway. usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the Laura and I were in shock. How on earth did this hap- most promising at the time, with the odd work commitment pen? I mean, next year would have been great but this here and there. Definitely what one would call a “typical” No- year?? Luck was clearly on our side. Once the excitement vember. As the month drew to a close, we began preparations for wore off, we packed our bags, bought plane tickets and our trip to Japan. Leaving in the middle of December we were took off for the Arctic Circle. off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke, the freshest Norway was everything we expected and more. Upon of sushi one could find, and a cultural experience to beat them arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people, vast all. To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult! However, and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight that was just a lead in of what was to come… out of the ocean, lofty summits and steep lines as far as By the time Mid-February rolled around, work was coming the eye could see. Also to one of the worst smells I have to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly ever had the pleasure of knowing!! We just so happened to fill our heads. Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug, Laura and arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting. This is I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season an industry I’m very jealous of as over the course of three could possibly bring. Europe? Russia? Chile? Just about every months every season, local fishermen make a few million imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up. All bucks and get the rest of the year off! Once Laura and I of this excitement lead to a flurry of “cold-call” style emails with had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different “Next Winter” in the subject line. Putting our hopes on the back smells we were off to the races. burner and watching the day dreams fade away, we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and we’d “someday” get to see these other destinations. Then a few days later, literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places: The office. Northern Alpine Guide’s Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee, Norway. Photo - Cam McLellan

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Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir. Photo - Cam McLellan …and of course, everyone’s favourite part of Norway… The Torsk!! (cod). Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im- mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job I’ve ever had. Ev- erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu. I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m). Every line, peak, and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car, majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth. Without question, those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me. It is a skier’s paradise and I will go back. That is most definitely a guarantee. For more information on this incredible place check out the fol- lowing links; www.lofotenskilodge.com - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides. www.alpineguides.no - Northern Alpine Guides website. Instagram - @camskiguide – My Instagram account with substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten.

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC. A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien. Photo - Cam McLellan

The Arête 26 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 27 The Arête Features Guides at Play: Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016 Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood.

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut. Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background. As I understand it, ACMG guides are team players. For was snow. We skirted through the steep forested peaks south example, Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be- of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca- tween operations with the InfoEx. There is a vibrant com- thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake. Large climbs, steep munity with lots of members and support is evident when cols, digging through cornices and all the while, very firm crusty reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads. snow conditions. As we moved north of Trout Lake, somewhere So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group Mother Nature turned the weather switch to “summer”. We of guides ski touring together? Something about too many were walking only at night in isothermal snow. The world would chiefs? start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra- workday in the city. We peeked over the large glaciers south of verse of the complete Selkirk Range; three Apprentice Ski Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts. Guides, a ski patroller/search and rescue volunteer and a As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys park ranger. Would too many cooks really spoil the broth? were broader, deeper and less accommodating. The term Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel, rugged ‘ski traverse’ seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our terrain and over 40,000 meters of elevation gain. We es- backs, forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5, a full laughter and pain mixed with sweat. All the while we skied week ahead of our fastest estimate. So what happened? some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed lucky enough to work in. Unfortunately we were skiing to some amazing physical strength, or being modest and them with snow that felt like it’d chatter every screw out of crediting the good weather and an overestimation, I be- your bindings. lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere. So what attributed to this trip’s smooth sailings? Well, many First let me describe the traverse. In the beginning there things to be sure. This mountain community of ours has been On the Adamant Glacier The Arête 28 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 29 The Arête Features

supportive throughout. Various individuals have been amazing to us as we’ve had our food drops delivered and our group re- ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way. That is no small contribution. However, the more I reflect, the more I’ve come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis, bindings and all. There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis. There were only a few times the team became divided, and we quickly came back together through a little communication. The tougher the situ- ation, the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled. Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty. As a group of professionals, all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us. When tested we all came forth and ap- plied our various deep pools of experience. When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi- gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy. As traverses often do, they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like. I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong. Everyone was capable, everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason, a true love In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast and passion for the mountains. Why else take a vacation Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin from mountain work… in the mountains? It’s amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play. I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com- munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals. Was our trip successful? Absolutely. Because we accom- plished our goal quickly? No. It’s easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves.

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal, Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide). Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet. In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program, this expedition was supported in part by MEC.

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton, BC.

The group finished in Revelstoke. Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford Glacier. Left to right: Mark, Steve, Madeleine, Douglas and Sam The Arête 30 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 31 The Arête Features Canadian Climbing Championships – Canmore, AB By Scott McKay

One of Canada’s best female climbers going for gold during the open finals. Photo – Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2 Inset: ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying. Photo – Shane Murdoch

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same. Given that the number of years. Climbing gyms, speed climbing, bouldering, sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 are now subsets of what we all call “climbing”. Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken. GRIGRI 2 Your very own personal belay assistant. On May 28 & 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who National Climbing Championships. The volunteer belayers volunteered their time to train for, and belay at the comp: An- were almost exclusively members of the ACMG, most of whom drew McVey, Andrew Karlowsky, Brodie Parker, Chris Adshade, had never been to a climbing competition before, let alone be- Darren Vonk, Graham Suffield, Grant Statham, Jen Pierce, Jon layed at a national event. Kramer, Jordy Shepherd, Jun Pan, Lenora Carbonetto, Matt As the competition went on it was clear that both groups Krahn, Mike Shaw, Morgan Fines, Nick Baggaley, Nicolas Bus- were impressed by each other. The competitors received excel- sieres, Phil Wilhelm, Will Neufeld, and Tadashi Fukada. lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other- wise might not cross paths with. The belayers found themselves The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices. Compact excited about competitive climbing, something that may have Scott McKay, an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In- and lightweight, it works with single dynamic ropes from 8.9 to 11mm. Its unique

once seemed like a foreign concept. structor Level 3, is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor Photo © www.kalice.fr design also provides excellent control while lowering. www.petzl.com from Canmore, AB As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

The Arête 32 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 33 The Arête Features

of hyperthermia is birth defects. Because pregnant women Guiding, Exams and Pregnancy - have high fluid demands, it is also important to keep well hy- drated. Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) Some Science to Answer Questions while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m, but acclimatizing By Natalie Renner before strenuous activity is recommended.4 Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex- Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD, Associate Professor and Scientist posure to noise such as helicopters, which I really hadn’t con- sidered. By 20 weeks the fetus’ auditory structure is complete University of Western Ontario and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound. Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy. hearing loss later on in life for the child. A helicopter is 81- surrounding guiding while pregnant. My interest came about “The health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg- 100dB.5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes, risk, but I couldn’t find studies associated with that. career path of female guides. I decided to do some research for pre-eclampsia, and chronic musculoskeletal conditions, and Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women. women who are in that position. the support of healthy weight, and improved mental health.”2 Gestational diabetes, pre-eclampsia, risk of uterine rupture or The official policy of the Another study found that placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are ACMG and the Thompson in women with a high level medical emergencies. Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester Rivers University Canadian of fitness, active labour was rarely results in life threatening complications. It is important Mountain & Ski Guide shorter, there were fewer C- to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation, if the fetus miscar- Program (TRU) is that if a sections and less acute fetal ries it has no viable chance to survive, even in an urban setting. pregnant woman is fit and stress. What sets new stud- After 25 weeks, many doctors caution women from going to can safely work in a hazard- ies apart from older ones remote settings, because if they do deliver prematurely, the ous mountain environment, is that some of them are baby would potentially be viable. High risk pregnancies are then she can guide and take looking at high level ath- a very different category than low risk and could be compared exams. They would prefer letes. “For very fit, medi- to guiding with a major heart condition. cally pre-screened pregnant that the candidate confer I hope that this article helps people who are plan- women, the current target with a specialist physician ning on having some little mountain humans. I think in heart rate zones may not be who is familiar with the the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what appropriate and thus target risks involved. The policy you love to do, even at a high level. Conversely, there are heart rate zones validated is available on request from unique risks to pregnancy. It is a highly personal decision on pregnant women of dif- the ACMG and TRU has either way. Good Luck! If anyone has questions, or would ferent fitness levels are also added a section which states like to see more information, please email me at renner- available. For low–risk, fit that for exams with a risk [email protected]. of falling, they reserve the pregnant women 20 to 29 tycane pro outdoor BUILT right to inform the pregnant years old, the target heart candidate’s physician of the rate zone is 145–160 bpm. Natalie Renner, an ACMG Ski Guide, lives in Golden, BC risks. For low-risk, fit pregnant TO FACE Many people would women aged 30 to 39, a 1 www.scc-csc.lexum.com/scc-csc/scc-csc/en/item/1716/index.do zone of 140–156 bpm may think that the high perfor- 2 www.scc-csc.lexum.com/scc-csc/scc-csc/en/item/1716/index.do ANYTHING be more appropriate.”3 mance hazardous environ- 3 www.obesitynetwork.ca/files/guidelines.pdf ment of a guide exam is no ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers. Photo - Kobi Wyss Those limits are actually pretty high. 4 www.bmj.com/rapid-response/2011/11/03/pregnancy-and-high-altitude place for a pregnant woman. 5 www.oem.msu.edu/userfiles/file/News/Hv6n3.pdf But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg- What those studies also state, is that a pregnant wom- nant is against their human rights. It is discrimination based an should stay at 60-80% of her max heart rate. Can she on family status. Some might also say that the danger to the fe- still achieve the objective? Reasonable accommodation tus is so great that the risk shouldn’t be taken. Even if that were would be the principle in play there. the case, in Canada a fetus has no rights. What that means is While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar- ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else, what ies. This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came are the risks for concerned mothers to be? Falls are undoubt- about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they edly a hazard for all candidates. Depending on trimester, sustained while a fetus, in a car crash that the mother was at significant changes in centre of balance can create increased fault for.1 So, what does that have to do with exams? In short, chances of falls. Ligament laxity could be an issue, as oestro- a doctor can’t restrict you from an exam based on concerns for gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body. adidas.com/eyewear fetal health. A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas- Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg- troenteritis from untreated water. Hyperthermia (heat injury) nant? For low risk women - YES! Luckily, new studies have is a huge risk, if body temperatures greater than 38.9°C are achieved for long periods of time. One of the complications The Arête 34 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 35 The Arête Features Backcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery Story and Photos by Brent Peters & Kendra Stritch

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail.

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa- Tips: tion, which was developed in the early 1900’s in France.4 Dur- • Bring spices, fresh if you can. Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds. ing WWII, freeze drying developed as a method of transporting top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it blood serum. This process was quickly applied to many other the final touch. A staple in our kitchen kit is the “Sodial push How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite Advantages: pleases the senses products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals. pepper mill” from amazon.ca. In this method, the product is prepared, frozen, placed in • Plan ahead. During the weeks leading up to your trip you can and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food Disadvantages: heavy, doesn’t compact well, spoils, requires a vacuum and heated. This first freezes and then sublimates the make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs. We have used the you packed was crushed, crumbled, or trending towards more utensils & pots/pans rotten? Even with the right food, the limitations of cook- water out of the food. Freeze dried food is up to 4% larger than Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugs. com) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years. ware can make preparation a challenge. Favourites: Pork Chops, Hard Cheeses the original product depending on the original water content, • For vegan solutions, consider chick peas, beans, and dry TVP. The Food touches all of the senses. We see, taste, smell, feel and because the food is preserved in its frozen state. As the ice crys- tals form, they create microscopic pores in the cell walls, allow- Nutter’s in Canmore, Alberta has TVP from Bob’s Red Mill. hear as we eat1, which makes it a large part of our daily experi- DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates ing for ease of rehydration, but compromising texture. Freeze ence even in the backcountry. After research, years of personal back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag, reducing cleanup. trips and guiding, and a lot of experimentation at home we are of food preservation.3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds, North Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits, the Chinese When to Use: fast & light, when water and fuel resources are operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore, AB backcountry food just about as good as the scenery. dried eggs, and the Japanese dried fish and rice. Modern dehy- scarce such as alpine or altitude Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place 1. Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker. BC Cook Articulation dration centres around the advantage of compactness. Moisture Advantages: very light, all types of food including cheeses and and form community.2 From the moment food is harvested, it Committee. BC Open Textbook Project. is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around creams, very long shelf life, rehydrates quickly, rehydrates in a begins to spoil. It is astonishing how creative we have been at 2. Historical Origins of Food Preservation. Brian A. Nummer, Ph.D., National the food, removing the active water and, on average, 93% of the bag keeping food edible from season to season, hunt to hunt: dry- bulk of the original product. Rehydration does take a minimum Center for Home Food Preservation, May 2002 ing, cellaring, fermenting, curing, pickling, freezing, canning, of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product Disadvantages: not compact, loses texture 3. Dehydration. Encyclopaedia Brittanica. 4. Freeze-drying. Wikipedia. and freeze drying. To optimize our backcountry food, it is im- to a boil twice, or simmering, during the rehydration process. Favourites: Creamy Dishes & Eggs portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods Rehydrate as long as possible. If you are in a hut, rehydrate of food preservation. breakfast overnight, rehydrate dinner throughout the day. De- hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks. Refrigerate dry meat Fresh Dehydrated Freeze Dried short term, and freeze long term (up to a year). FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most. In this age of glo- Car Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips balism, chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to When to Use: long hut trips Hut Based Day 1 & Cured Eggs prepare the tastiest meals. In the backcountry, fresh food is often Advantages: light, compact, will last months (meat) to years ✓ a luxury, when ease of access permits. Hard cheeses and cured (vegetable), retains texture Camping Day 1 & Cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil. Grated parmesan will ✓ ✓ Disadvantages: takes time to rehydrate, no cheeses or creams, last and give your dinners flavour and calories. Freezing meat is Backpacking Day 1 & Cured Eggs & Cheese a great way to preserve it for the first day. need pots ✓ Favourites: Fruit, Breads & Cakes, Shredded Pork Fast & LIght Cured When to Use: fly-in trips, winter, the first day or two of hut ✓ trips or car camping Altitude ✓

The Arête 36 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 37 The Arête Features A Brief History of Derrière Crag By Murray Toft Athlete: Cody Barnhill Photo: Mark Fisher, Fisher Creative Photo: Mark Fisher,

Image and photo from www.rockiesobscure.com

Editor’s Note – I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak- was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website group, and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend- and said “I recognize that!” It was from a crag where we taught ing. It was a perfect find. On the way back to the university, we multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen- chatted excitedly about how we should work it. tre. The website’s author called the crag “Antiques Roadshow” and Over the next few weeks, Rusty and I returned with an seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl- assortment of cabled nuts, pitons and 3/8” self-drive bolts (the edgeable Murray Toft for some background. era before Hilti and Bosch) to “install” the cliff. Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff, with In the mid-80’s Bill March, Rusty Baillie and I went off in search crux moves protected with fixed gear. We needed to handle of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis. We need- four rope teams on different lines. Students could add more ed to find a site where students in the then, Outdoor Pursuits clean pro to their liking. Rusty decided on a colour-coding Program at the University of Calgary, could realistically work on scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students their rock climbing skills. We hoped to find a cliff that would on route. He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in offer controlled multi-pitch options, requiring at least one belay order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon and rappel changeover. to actual rock features. The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising, but easily coach our students. turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for, and was too much of the real deal. It was steep enough that none of us All that remained was to give it a name. Since it was just felt comfortable soloing on it – what we hoped to be able to do behind (south of) the already popular Barrier Crag, the name in order to check on students’ systems. “Derrière” was the obvious choice. As the day closed in, we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home. As we rounded a corner on the Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold- 2 Kananaskis highway, not far north from the false start of the en, BC Galatea option, I spotted an edge poking out of the trees. A half RADICAL TÜV CERTIFIED – EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS hour later we were at the bottom of our find, a compact buttress See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this “Antiques about 50 meters wide by the same high. It leaned back to a Roadshow” at www.rockiesobscure.com/antiques-roadshow - Ed WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTS®. reasonable angle, was covered with features, and had some qual- INCORPORATED BY SCARPA, FISCHER, SCOTT, ROXA, HAGAN, MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT. ity cracks. Surprisingly, the rock was pretty good. The top edge

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_final.indd 1 14.09.15 08:31 The Arête 38 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 39 The Arête Technical

think the lid has two pockets too many, you Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack Review can remove it and use the ingenious flap to By Ken Bélanger close the top of your pack from the elements. The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen, lip balm, a few snacks, compass and inReach device. I liked the forward pull to tighten feature – cinching it was much easier than a corset. Straps, attachments and access There are multiple straps on this pack, prob- ably too many for my tastes. But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users, whether on two planks or one. The carrying options are numerous: diagonal, A-frame, vertical, horizontal, or maybe a combo of any. The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves. The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops. I find my tool flops around too much on these, so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft. In addition to the top loading access, you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel. This is great when you don’t want to puke your pack for something Image – www.backcountrygear.com on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skis/board are attached. Overview Pocketing The top haul loop is large, stiff, and easy to grab and clip to anchors. Nice work here. Osprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies. We I’m choosy with ski packs. Unlike alpine packs, I prefer my ski You can route your hydration hose through have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets. Ski touring the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez- with their Canadian distributor, so now their packs are easily requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access ing incidents. available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian and then put away. I find a good organisation system critical to warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing. As always, details not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro- are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site. thermometer, thermos, goggles or whatever. The Kamber fits duction model, it lacked a whistle built into this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves. the sternum buckle. I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version. Model tested The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black New for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (men’s) and Kresta Diamond Evac 7 shovel, G3 carbon probe and wood saw with Weight (women’s) models available in 20 litre (22 L men), 30 L (32 L room for a few other things too. It has an additional red third men), and 40 L (42 L men) volumes. ABS Vario compatibility zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening With all of these features, this isn’t the light- is available if you’d like an airbag. The Kamber and Kresta re- the lid, but that wouldn’t really work if your shovel handle and/ est pack on the market. I weighed it at 1890 place the non-gender specific Kobe model. I used the Kamber or probe are sleeved. I’d like to see one more sleeve for a total of grams, which seems to be in the range of 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few three (shovel handle, probe, saw) in the avy pocket. other full-featured ski packs. assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April. The removable lid has three large pockets: 2 on top and 1 on Conclusion the inside. The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear. Fit There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found The Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski- Truly a comfortable pack, even once loaded with a rope, harness, superfluous and never used. It also has a tuck away helmet car- mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear. crevasse rescue gear, ice axe, avalanche equipment, and all the rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration. This is the first Osprey pack I’ve used and their thoughtful at- other usual accoutrements in a Guide’s pack. Adjustment and Like free Wi-Fi at hotels, I think helmet carriers should be a tention to detail is evident everywhere. fit was easy with the plethora of straps. More on those later, mandatory feature on ski packs. but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal- However, that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening Ken Bélanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were and sliding downward on its straps. This makes it flop around Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore, AB and outdoor travelling. with even a small amount of items. It seems the buckles that offices all over the world. attach it to the pack don’t have enough friction. I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position. If you The Arête 40 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 41 The Arête Technical

after a month it looks the same as it did on day Arc’teryx Acrux SL Men’s Approach Shoe Review one. I haven’t been gentle with the shoes, and By Adam Burrell yet they seem like they will hold up over time. I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole, which makes sense giv- en the type of rubber used. The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibram’s Megagrip rubber. Fit One odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot. I thought that this would go away over time, and it has lessened but not disap- peared entirely. I can’t say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet, or if I need a half size smaller, but it is something to watch out for. It’s important to take a look at the Arc’teryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ- ent than normal (e.g. a US Men’s size 9 is a 42 2/3rds Euro, 8.5 is a 42). With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft, which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing, but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer, thicker footbed. Weight Image – www.arcteryx.com At 300g per shoe, the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes, which is hardly no- Overview the adaptive fit of the liner, there seems to be no extra space ticeable in a climbing pack. inside, yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes don’t feel Arc’teryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in Price squished. When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel 2015, and have added a few more models this year. Like all predictable, without any extra movement inside. On downhills At $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of things Arc’teryx, they chose to look at footwear construction a my foot was held in place and I didn’t notice any toebang, as I the approach shoe offerings. little differently – every shoe and boot is usually constructed often do in approach shoes. with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a Conclusion separate internal liner. With the Acrux SL, Arc’teryx has lami- Breathability/Waterproofness nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a Overall I was more impressed with the Acrux substantially lighter package. These shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first SL than I thought I would be. They fit well, glance. I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days, breathe well and due to the construction I Background but my feet were very happy. Along the sides of the upper mate- think they will end up being more durable than I received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the most other approach shoes. Now, about those ago, and have worn them almost every day since then in condi- liner, allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside. colours… tions ranging from dry, hot and dusty to wet and muddy to I was surprised at this as well; without a tongue I expected bits mid-fifth class rockclimbs. of rock and dirt to work themselves inside, but the snug fit keeps everything out. BCA_AMGA_4.6x7.5_spring.indd 2 5/31/16 11:25 AM Comfort I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in The first thing you’ll notice when you try them on, apart the rain for most of the day and my feet didn’t get wet… The Adam Burrell, an ACMG Ski Guide, Apprentice Rock Guide, Hik- from the flashy colours, is that they seem quite tight and dif- nylon upper is highly water resistant, if not waterproof, and the ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1, lives in Canmore, AB ficult to put on, not unlike rock shoes. There are loops on the liner didn’t seem to absorb any water either. This is likely due to front and back to aid the process. The liner does stretch, and I the same seamless construction that Arc’teryx has been using on found that after about three or four days they were much easier their waterproof backpacks for a while now. to put on. These are the first shoes I’ve owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period! Durability Once you do get them on, they fit well. Really well. With Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for the upper looked cheaply made and wouldn’t last very long, but

The Arête 42 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 43 The Arête Technical

is that when working in countries with foreign DeLorme inReach Review languages it is possible to pre-program messag- es to local rescue groups in the correct language By Marc Piché ahead of time. Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation, it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency! Pros • Two way communication • Lighter than a sat phone • Easy to type when paired with a smart phone • Long lasting battery • Multiple pre-programmed messages • ACMG members get a discount! Cons • Somewhat clunky user interface • Challenging to type a message using the device directly • I’ve heard of two incidents where the device stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced Conclusion All in all this has me considering replac- ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical. It can still be given to a inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right). Images – www.inreachcanada.com guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication Overview tool. DeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part 1. Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co- Editor’s Note – in addition to the communica- ordinator Ken Bélanger with two inReach units to try out. Ken 2. Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide tion features, GPS and tracking functions of the lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski 3. Send messages by email inReach SE, the inReach Explorer also has a built touring this season. Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did 4. inReach to inReach messaging in digital compass, barometric altimeter, and ac- I pay for the service package they provided. This brief review is celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear- specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry ings, elevations, speed, and more. communications device. All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system, or, once paired with a smart phone, you can use its key- Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG. Background board as well as gain access to all of your contacts. Marc Piché, a Mountain Guide and the ACMG SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON, BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE As a long time sat phone owner, I thought I had my back- Performance Technical Director lives in Canmore, AB. country communications all sorted out. Despite some lag time on the Iridium system, I've always felt as though I had my bases The inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia. working in remote areas. I have never needed to deal with an I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and ACMG Scholarship News emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always 100% of my messages were sent, and although at times it seemed OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616.indd 1 5/31/16 11:54 AM wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right to take quite a while, I received all replies to my messages. There ...continued from page 15 The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15, 2016. away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way work and managing the situation. but this was a small price to pay for the convenience. Julbo Scholarship Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG Scholarship Committee at [email protected] Findings Functionality Fine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate As an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for It did not take long before I realized that the inReach could Derek Wilding, an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In- up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen- members of the mountain certification stream. Similar to the take care of these types of situations quite effectively. Delorme structor 3, lives in Calgary, AB provides reliable two-way communication with four options to tre can reply to your request in order to get more information other financial awards a digital application form can be found get your message to the outside world; about the nature of your emergency. Another distinct advantage on the ACMG Member website. The Arête 44 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 45 The Arête Technical Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel Review By Larry Stanier

inReach  2-way text messaging

CONNECTED Image - www.blackdiamondequipment.com  2-way SOS  Navigation and tracking Overview • The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves.  100% global coverage I am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here. Conclusion I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and The big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it got lots of positive responses from people who had used them is a pain in the ass to pack around. It was mentioned consistent- Reach anyone. Anywhere. Anytime HARD and from some people who were just familiar with ly how it didn't fit into BD packs very well. That has supposedly inReach SE and inReach Explorer. Rugged design combined with two-way messaging, them. Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs. SOS, and GPS – inReach works where cell phones don’t. Send and receive messages, trigger a solid, efficient tool. For me and a solid majority of the respondents, the benefits an SOS, and share your journey. Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach. far outweigh the inconvenience. It is a solid, working class tool Consistent positive comments and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of For a limited-time offer visit: www.inreachcanada.com/ACMG snow in either mode. • Great ergonomics. It feels solid and moves snow really well as a shovel or a hoe. Big blade that you can get a boot on if need be. • Durable. I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one. Tech Specs: Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob- lems. I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the Evac 7 – 794 g, 2.7 L blade volume, 67 – 94 cm length range Classifieds base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a Evac 9 – 902 g, 3.5 L blade volume, 71 – 99 cm length range Heli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016 slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs. Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter season. • Great tool for snow craft. Wage: Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skills. Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore, Location: Revelstoke, BC AB Job Description: Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season. Experience: Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski Guide. Consistent negative comments: Skills /Abilities: Strong guiding skills, strong personal ski skills and be physically fit. Fluency in German is a preferred asset. • The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the pack. Certifications/Qualifications: ACMG or IFMGA certification. CAA Level 2 for Ski operations. Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates. • The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easily. Valid Class 4 driver’s license. • Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a To apply, please send your resume to; Colette Poirier – Human Resources, Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing coating of graphite lube. PO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email: [email protected]

The Arête 46 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 47 The Arête Member Updates Diapers and Vows Changes in ACMG Membership 1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016. Compiled by Member Services By Lilla Molnar The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur- ing this specific time period. Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications. Always check www.acmg.ca for up-to-date current status. Please do not hesitate to contact [email protected] if you have any queries or if there are any errors, omissions or you have been missed. Italicized names indicate new ACMG members. Ski Guide Sarkany, Dave Heckl, Eddie Smith, Brodie Irvine, Caroline Bernas, Igor Kelly, Sandra CGI 2 Caswell, Michael Pawlyk, Brett Curran, Ian Climbing Gym Instructor 1 Perry, Laurence CGI 1 David, Jerome Blumel, Jeremy Peters, Stephen Dutton, John Brophy, Mark Shankman, Morgan Enns, Aaron Brydges, Scott Talbot, Margo Everts, John Budning, Sean Thornton, John MG Ewing, Sam Chan, Lauren Turecka, Tereza Funston, Morgen Crawford-White, Andrew Turk, Alix Gerrard, Charles Cuthbert, Kori Hjertaas, Kevin Danaher, Kavanagh Joined ACMG for the first time Hoke, Jonas Douglas, Luke Lefebvre, Martin Draycott, Eric (not through course during above period) McLean, Stewart Gnyra, Thomas Schlumpf, Christian ARG Milner, Jesse Graham, Tracey Makischuk, Michael ARG Neault, Trevor Henry, Amanda Carbonetto, Lenny AHG Rasmussen, Tristen Hill, Stuart Evans, Leah AHG Rigby, Chad Hirsch, Judith Hanemayer, Jesica AHG Rousselle, Samuel Insley, Matt Kesler, Trevor AHG Selda, Peter Jamie Kam, Raymond Page, Danny AHG Thomson, Simon Lajeunesse, Spencer Weiss, Nathan AHG Thumlert, Scott Mayhew, Hudson Baggaley, Nicholas CGI 1 Weddell, Bryon Montal, Jaedwin Chan, Natalie CGI 1 Ian McEleney & Jessica Haist at their ski wedding. Photo – Dale Apgar Werner, Shannon Mykytyn, Illya Desjarlais, Isiah CGI 1 Wodak, Sabina Nyquist, Michael Fornari, Joe CGI 1 Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide & Climbing Gym Instruc- Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy Yim, Roger Onoya, Soleil Funk, Alison CGI 1 tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista, California in ski last November named Crosby. Oxer, Mark Mandrish, Hannah CGI 1 boots! Apprentice Ski Guide Parker, Brodie McLarty, Joanne CGI 1 The wedding was actually on January 7, 2014 where their Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby Dykshoorn, Tamara Prins, Cortney Moorman, Alex CGI 1 Prior, Dana Nelson, Keith CGI 1 friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th. Farley, Darren the bride and groom) skied out. The couple just had their wed- Farquharson, Jordan Prisner, Mylissa Perry, Laurence CGI 1 Pumphrey, Annie Pierce, Jen CGI 1 ding reception in Mammoth Lakes, California this June where Fisher, Nigel Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had Qiu, Yusheng Power, Chelsea CGI 1 relatives flew in from across the US and Canada. Higgins, Tyler baby number 3. Baby Annika was born on April 26. Hoyle, Peter Stewart, Cole Powsey, Clive CGI 1 Hurley, Conor Strohmaier, Ryan Tash, Atiyeh CGI 1 Thisdelle, Jordan Whitney, Claire CGI 1 Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi- Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a Lamoureux, Justin Longpré, Francois Wells, Brady Olszewski, Josie TRCI tion of diapers and vows. Congratulations to everyone! beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian, on March 27th. They are Mackenzie, Bren White, Angela doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents! Makepeace, Melissa Yun, Heesu Reinstated to the ACMG Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a Meyer, Kathy Bryan, David HG baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore, Ricci, Tim Climbing Gym Instructor 2 Hulbert, Russell SG AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz. Snowsell, Ian Lovenuik, Stephen SG Collins, Michael Matheson, Sarah CGI 1 Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought McDougall, Greg Apprentice Rock Guide McKeown, Donald CGI 1 Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Metcalfe, Jay to you by Canmore, AB Mountain Guide Lilla Saul, Doug HG Guide) on April 1st. At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the Peel, Raz Molnar. Criddle, Mark Sklarski, Evan AHG guiding role in the household! Vey, Rachel Hiking Guide (PLAR – Prior Resigned from the ACMG Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen Learning Assessment Review) Top Rope Climbing Instructor are home in Golden, BC with their new little bundle Micah. He Fynn, Sean CGI 1 Anthony-Malone, Kristin Demchuk, Kristin AHG was born on May 17th at 8lbs, 11oz. Fagan, Samuel Goonetilleke, Hashila AHG Bélanger, Ken Fines, Morgan CGI 2 Halik, Martina ASG Osberg, Sarah Goto, Katsuhiko SG, DHG Ochiai, Keita DHG The Arête 48 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 49 The Arête ACMG Contact Information June 2016 Subject to change: for current information, see www.acmg.ca > Contacts Board of Directors - Officers of the Board President Vice-President Secretary-Treasurer Marc Ledwidge Sylvia Forest Director, Interior Kevin Dumba Director at Large, Public Banff, AB Golden, BC Calgary, AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Board of Directors - Elected Directors Director, Specialty Guides Director, Apprentice Guides Director, Climbing Instructors Director, Hiking Guides Director at Large, Member MG Derek Wilding Rich Haywood Scott McKay Nathan Dahl Cecelia Mortenson Calgary, AB Garibaldi Highlands, BC Canmore, AB Calgary, AB Revelstoke, BC [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Director, Rockies Director, West Coast Director, Eastern Canada Director at Large, Public Director at Large, Member MG Jordy Shepherd Ross Berg Philippe Gautier Rick Cowburn Kirsten Knechtel Canmore, AB Squamish, BC Montreal, QC Calgary, AB Golden, BC [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Board Advisors The Arête Newsletter Organizational Contractors Communications Finance The Arête is a semi-annual publication focusing The ACMG has a variety of Technical Director Kimanda Jarzebiak John Gillett on the relevant technical and political issues and independent contractors who Marc Piché Ascent Public Affairs Canmore, AB member news for the professions of mountain fulfill the required administrative Canmore, AB GET Victoria, BC guiding, hiking guiding, and climbing instruction. functions of the association. [email protected]

Legal Editor-in-Chief Continuing Professional The TD chairs the Tech- G W Kent Scarborough Shaun King Development nical Committee, oversees

Scarborough Herman Bluekens Canmore, AB CPD Coordinator all matters relating to Smith Anna New Westminster, BC [email protected] Alison Dakin technical standards and Golden, BC reports to the President. FUNDED [email protected] ACMG Administrative Support The Administrative Support Group, led by the Executive Director, is responsible for matters relating to membership, member services, accounting, IT, sponsorship and promotions. The ED reports to the President. Executive Director Permit Manager, Administrative Assistant Member Services Web, Graphics and IT Partnership Coordinator In July 2015, Michelle Kadatz and “Without this extraordinary support, Peter Tucker Assistant to ED Elaine Powers Manager Coordinator Ken Bélanger Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Rossland, BC Laura Young Chris Miller Canmore, AB Bragg Creek, AB Janet Miller Island to attempt remote and our dream would have never even [email protected] Canmore, AB [email protected] Canmore, AB Canmore, AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] imposing routes on Mount Asgard gotten o the ground.” and the south buttress of Mount ACMG Committees Anna Smith Committees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association. Loki. In fifty hours of climbing, As a member-driven organization with limited resources, the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy. Board members typically, but not necessarily, chair they sent two world-class routes, each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees. If you would like to join one of the committees, please contact the President [email protected]. and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki. MEC Expedition Awards Conduct Review Pierre Hungr Professional Practices Kirk Mauthner Chair: Chris Miller - Chair: Rod Gibbons - Kent Scarborough (legal advisor) Chair: Nathan Dahl - Craig McGee Support helped get them there. [email protected] [email protected] Paul Vidalin [email protected] Helen Sovdat Brad White Committee members added James Blench as necessary. Pool includes: MCR/Informalex Alison Cardinal Quality Assurance By supporting innovative outdoor Climbing Instructor Nick Atkinson (public) Chair: Larry Stanier - Brent Goodman Chair: Mark Klassen - exploits across Canada and Chair: Scott McKay - Paul Berntsen [email protected] Steve Holeczi [email protected] [email protected] Barry Blanchard Steve Holeczi Matt Peter Troy Kirwan around the world, the MEC Chris Adshade Gillian Calder (public) Sarah Hueniken Veronika Vackova Dave Stark Expedition Support program Nathan Dahl Justin Dwyer Conrad Janzen Kent Scarborough helps Canadians turn ambitious Kimanda Jarzebiak George Field Tom Wolfe Scholarship (Legal Advisor) Lloyd King Neil Haggard (public) Chair: Derek Wilding - Larry Stanier goals into inspiring realities. Sebastian Powell Jeremy Mackenzie Membership Services [email protected] Ian Tomm

Derek Wilding Dave Stark Chair: Ben Firth - Jason Billing Brad White Kadatz Michelle Larry Stanier [email protected] Jordy Shepherd Communications Leslie Taylor (public) Christoph Dietzfelbinger Sharon Wood Want to know more? Chair: Lisa Porter - Marni Virtue (public) Jorg Wilz mec.ca/expeditions [email protected] Rupert Wedgwood Derek Holtved Technical Emily Grady Janet Miller Technical Director: Paddy Jerome Governance Mike Welch Marc Piché - [email protected] Jeremy Mackenzie Chair: Rick Cowburn - James Blench Olivia Sofer [email protected] Dwayne Congdon Ian Tomm Steve Blagbrough Todd Guyn The Arête 50 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 51 The Arête ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

PROOF DOCKET # 16_CM_0024 ITEM PRINT AD: ACMG Print PDF PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDF PROJECT Climbing Magazine ad IMAGE IMG_0811.jpg, IMG_1866.JPG SIZE 7.5”w x 9.5”h

CLIENT C&M Michelle Wong DESIGNER Lisa, [email protected] BLEED NA

FA PROOF DATE May 9, 2016 9:33 AM FILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_7.5x9.5_FA.indd SAFE NA

MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT COOP  GREAT NORTHERN WAY, VANCOUVER, BC VT E    COLOURS CMYK Partners The following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level. We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support, and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada. Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arête is printed on 100% recycled paper. Please be responsible and recycle after reading. The Arête 52 Summer 2016