TheVolume 45, ArêteSummer 2016 Steep & Stinky Skiing in Northern Norway Page 26 Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse Page 28 New Ontario Rock Guidebooks Page 20 Guiding, Exams and Pregnancy Page 34 Contents Editorial Features President’s Perspective 4 Steep & Stinky - Skiing in Northern Norway 24 Tucker Talk 4 Guides at Play: Selkirks Ski Traverse 28 Canadian Climbing Championships 32 Guiding, Exams and Pregnancy 34 News Backcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery 36 CMSG Program Update 6 A Brief History of Derriere Crag 38 Technical Director’s Report 8 Introducing a highly technical, lightweight IFMGA News 10 double boot engineered for alpinists. MCR / Informalex Committee Report 11 Technical Built the Arc’teryx way. Professional Practices Committee Report 11 Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack Review 40 ACMG Partnership Program Update 12 Acr'teryx Acrux SL Approach Shoe Review 42 Continuing Professional Development Report 14 Delorme inReach Review 44 ACMG Scholarship News 15 Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel Review 46 Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted Area 16 Member Updates Spotlight on ACMG Members Diapers and Vows 48 Changes in ACMG Membership 49 ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding 18 ACMG Officers, Directors, Advisors, New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from Justin Dwyer 20 Staff and Committees 50 Proud supporter of: The Arête “The rope connecting two men on a mountain is more than nylon protection; it is an organic thing that transmits subtle messages of intent and disposition from man to man; it is an extension of the tactile senses, a psychological bond, a wire along which currents of communication flow.” - Trevanian, The Eiger Sanction Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arête attempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. Ar- ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all. Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee. Article submissions and advertising information Submission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website. Submit articles and ads to [email protected] Cover photo: The late Guy Edwards on the 2nd ascent (with a needle variant) of The Chilton-Must route (TD 5.10, 240m) which encom- passed the east Buttress of the Blade and continued to the summit of Stiletto Peak in the Waddington Range, BC. Photo - Jia Condon The Arête 2 Summer 2016 Summer 2016 3 The Arête Editorial ins to ensure the member is managing the stress, providing suit against our member. What I release to everyone, especially President’s Perspective assistance in working through all the details, locating re- the media, has to be carefully crafted. By Marc Ledwidge sources (including counselling) as needed and generally help- People have two years from the date of the incident to file ing to navigate the inevitable maelstrom that follows serious a statement of claim if they wish to initiate a law suit. After that With the ACMG now at well over one process that would motivate members to seriously evaluate incidents. time, the amount of information we can release increases, al- thousand members, the task of managing the consequences of dropping their membership, regardless If the incident stems from an avalanche, then the ACMG lowing us to examine the situation for useful learning. applications for new membership or rein- of the reasons, before doing so. The reinstatement process needs to collaborate with various other associations or com- The ACMG has recently struck a quality assurance commit- statement of former members has become also needs to ensure that you as members are no longer pay- panies. Avalanche Canada is the nexus for all things avalanche tee, chaired by Mountain Guide Mark Klassen. This committee is quite a workload for the ACMG staff. In ing for a service that we provide to non-members. in the public realm, so they are often the first to be called by charged with establishing the procedures we need to follow when the case of new applications, we of course, By the time this goes to print, your Board of Directors media. They refer the media to us or to the CAA if there is a an accident occurs. In late May, ACMG President Marc Ledwidge, warmly welcome new members who have will have discussed options to completely cost recover these professional avalanche worker involved. Additionally in this Technical Director Marc Piché and I met with Karl Klassen from recently passed exams through Thompson membership reinstatements. One of the challenges for the situation, we will often collaborate with the CAA and some- Avalanche Canada, who is working with the BC Coroner’s office Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, administration staff is to be able to invoice and get paid by times the BLBCA to determine the best support for the worker. on investigation procedures. It’s clear that we need to improve all applications are relatively easy to process. When it comes to applicants requesting reinstatement. Since they are not mem- If there has been a serious injury or fatality to a client, I our processes to ensure our protocols are integrated across all the reinstatements, or people applying greater than one year after bers, we cannot simply charge their account. There have been immediately notify the ACMG insurance broker and adjuster. relevant organizations. This will reduce duplication and increase completing their exam, the process can be more complicated cases where applicants seeking reinstatement have dropped They contact our lawyer and begin the process of determining clarity around what we all can and should do when disaster strikes. and quite time consuming for the Technical Director (TD), the their request, presumably after deciding that they did not like that our member, and therefore the ACMG, has been properly So what about a Conduct Review? What if the member Technical Committee (TC) and the administration staff. requirements set by the TC. In some cases, the costs incurred covered. Here is where the complexities start. If the potential may have breached the ACMG Code of Conduct in one or more Given our primary mandate, the TD and TC have a respon- by the Association have not been recovered. Currently, we for a law suit exists, the information gathered by the insurance ways? Do we sanction someone who has just gone through a sibility to ensure that aspirant members are at a current stan- charge a $100 administrative fee for reinstatements. In most team becomes closely held in order to reduce the chances of a terrible trauma or do we deny our prime mandate of protect- dard prior to being readmitted as active members at any of cases, that fee does not cover the cost of the real work outlined successful suit. Many people and organizations want to know ing the public interest? Can we use the information gathered in their previous certification levels. This is done by evaluating above. I will be proposing that anyone requesting reinstate- what happened, but we are constrained in what we can and the investigation or do we need to do another, perhaps with a work history, related recreational resume, references, recom- ment as active members pay a much larger sum up front before should make public in case there is something that would en- different perspective? These are difficult questions which your mendations, and the amount of time that has lapsed since the the application will be considered. The idea is similar to a legal courage or assist future litigation against the member. Board and I will be working to answer in the near future. Just person was last a member. The TC then outlines what the retainer where the amount of time that the TD and TC spends This push-pull is hard on the member who is already know that we will continue to do whatever we can to support applicant must do before being reinstated. This can include on the file will be billed against that fee. Once the reinstate- somewhat traumatized, and difficult to reconcile with those any member who finds him/herself in such a situation. but is not limited to further references, CPDs, training with a ment is completed, assuming that the amount of time spent who are interested in learning from the situation. We would Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg Creek, TRU instructor or repeating part or all of a certification stream. on the file is less than the up front fee, the applicant would like to be as transparent about the incident as we can, but we AB. The amount of time that the volunteer members of the TC and get a refund. This is of course exclusive of membership fees. can’t risk that this might increase the likelihood of a successful the paid TD spends on this can add up quickly. In other words, In more complicated cases, the applicant may also get asked you, as members, are currently paying for this. for further funds before the process can continue. I hope that There are a number of reasons why ACMG members decide these changes will ensure a process that is fair to both you as to drop their membership. They can be related to career or members and to applicants seeking reinstatement. Have a lifestyle changes, geographic moves, or financial constraints. I great summer! would like to see some changes in our current reinstatement Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff, AB. It Runs Tucker Talk By Peter Tucker It Rides This past winter the unthinkable happened investigation may be commissioned. Although the interests when one of our members lost a client in a are somewhat different, there may also be collaboration with tragic avalanche.