Journal of Marine Science and Engineering

Article Variations in Winter Wave Climate in the Japan under the Global Warming Condition

Kenji Taniguchi Faculty of Geosciences and Civil Engineering, Kanazawa University, Kanazawa 920-1192, Japan; [email protected]; Tel.: +81-76-234-4629

 Received: 26 April 2019; Accepted: 13 May 2019; Published: 15 May 2019 

Abstract: Future variations in the ocean wave climate caused by global warming could affect various coastal issues. Using a third-generation wave model, this study produced projections of the ocean wave climate for winter around Japan, focusing on the Japan Sea side. Wave simulation forcing (sea surface wind) was generated through five different global warming experiments. More than half the future wave projections showed an increasing tendency of the climatological mean significant during winter. However, the maximum significant wave height did not show any clear tendency in future variation. The top 1% of significant wave heights and mean wave periods showed apparent increases in frequencies of higher/longer waves in three out of the five future projections. Frequency distributions of significant wave height, mean wave period, mean wavelength and wave direction showed various future variations (reduction of small ocean waves, increasing frequency of waves from the west). There are large uncertainties in future variations of wave climate in the Japan Sea, but the high probability of variations in daily wave climate is recognized, based on the future wave projections. Variations in daily wave climate are important because they could affect the topography and environment of the coast through long-term repetitive actions.

Keywords: dynamical wave simulation; global warming; multi-model ensemble; Japan Sea

1. Introduction Variations in the atmospheric conditions because of climate change could have impacts on the ocean wave climate. Variations in ocean wave climate, including mean and extreme wave conditions, could have considerable impact on various applications, e.g., coastal planning (flood disaster prevention, coastal environment), design of coastal and offshore structures, ship design, harbor activities, and the evaluation of wave resources. Projections of future wave climate are indispensable for the assessment of the impact of variations in wave climate and for the development of appropriate adaptation strategies. However, Global Climate Models (GCMs) for climate research do not simulate ocean waves, and some postprocessing or analysis method is necessary to investigate the effects of climate change on ocean waves. Projections with high spatial resolution are desirable especially for detail assessment of the impact on wave climate for specific coastal areas. There are two approaches to generate projections of wave climate. One is dynamical downscaling based on numerical models, and another one is statistical downscaling technique. In both approaches, atmospheric conditions (near-surface wind and/or pressure) projected by GCMs are used to generate ocean wave conditions. Seasonal mean and extreme global ocean wave heights were projected with sea level pressure projected by multiple GCMs and emission scenarios as forcing [1]. A statistical downscaling method was applied using a regression model, and the projected ocean wave height was estimated on a 96–48 Gaussian grid in [1]. Future variations of global ocean wave climate were examined with ocean wave heights projections by another statistical method by the authors of [2]. The sea level pressure from

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20 GCMs in the Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5 (CMIP5 [3]) were used to generate the ocean wave projections with spatial resolution of 2.0 2.0 [2]. A statistical method for different ◦ × ◦ weather types was developed and future variations of the wave climate in Europe were investigated in [4]. The three-day average sea level pressure and sea level pressure gradient were used as predictors and the mean wave heights were projected in their method. Using dynamical methods, global wave climate was projected by a wave model with the resolutions of 1.25◦ and the variations in the mean and the extreme wave climate were examined in [5]. Different tendencies of future variations of wave climate were found in different regions (including the around Japan) [5]. The spatial resolutions in above studies were too coarse to examine the details in relation to the Japan Sea. The variations in ocean waves in the Bay of Biscay were examined by wave simulations with the spatial resolution of 0.1◦ in [6]. Both downscaling by the wave model and error correction were applied in [6]. Decreasing winter wave height was found according to a decrease of wind speed in the central North Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay. Future projections of the wave climate were generated by a third-generation wave model (WAM) with resolution of 0.05 0.075 with two initial conditions ◦ × ◦ and two emission scenarios [7]. Variations of the wave direction were larger than variations of the wave height in the North Sea. Ten future projections showed an increasing mean and extreme wave heights in eastern parts of the North Sea but decrease in western parts [8]. A spectral wave model was used with forcing data from GCM projections with 1.0 1.0 spatial resolution in [9]. Increases ◦ × ◦ of the wave generation and the mean significant wave height in the Southern Ocean and decrease of the wave generation with comparable wave height in the North Atlantic Ocean were reported in [9]. Variations in the global wave climate were examined using simulation results from a wave model with forcing from a GCM projection [10]. The changes of wave climate in different regions and seasons were discussed in [10]. Global and wind–sea characteristics at the end of the 21st century were investigated by using the results of a coupled atmosphere-ocean wave simulation system with the resolution of 0.5 0.5 [11]. Wave climate in the Pacific Ocean was examined with wave simulations ◦ × ◦ based on the multiple emission scenarios of two different GCMs with 0.25 0.25 resolution [12]. ◦ × ◦ Mean and extreme wave heights decreased along the west coast of North America in [12]. For the western North Pacific Ocean, 0.5 0.5 resolution wave simulations were generated and the effects of ◦ × ◦ conditions were investigated to understand the mechanism behind changes in wave climate [13]. Finer resolution wave climates by statistical and dynamical downscaling methods were compared by the authors of [14]. The results from the dynamical method were slightly closer to the observations, and the difference between the dynamical and the statistical methods was larger under more severe global warming conditions [14]. In addition, statistical methods showed disadvantages in the estimation of extreme wave events [14]. Another comparison of statistical and dynamical downscaling method showed that statistical projection using climate indices (sea level pressure and/or pressure gradient) did not reproduce long-term trend in the North Atlantic wave climate [15]. Another disadvantage of the statistical downscaling methods is that it does not consider swell effects [16]. Thus, dynamical methods could be more appropriate for evaluation of global warming impact in more energetic conditions. The direct use of GCM output as wave model forcing could cause overestimation of swell in broad regions of the Southern Pacific Ocean [9]. Large negative biases were also recognized in wave simulation with direct use of CMIP5 GCM output as forcing [17]. To prevent such defects of using GCMs output directly in downscaling, a pseudo global warming (PGW) method [18] was applied in this study. The PGW conditions are generated by adding future anomalies from the GCM output to reanalysis data. Then, simulations forced by PGW conditions are made and compared with simulations forced by reanalysis data (more accurate forcing than the direct use of GCMs). Strong seasonal northwesterly winds prevail during winter over the Japan Sea, which can make sea conditions difficult. Sometimes, a large swell can be generated by the passage of an intense low-pressure system. For example, in 2008, a very large swell exceeding 9.9 m affected Toyama Bay (northern Honshu, Japan). In this study, a dynamical method was applied for the Japan Sea. The wind J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 150 3 of 16 output of a numerical model was used as the forcing data in a wave simulation. For the present climate, winds simulated with reanalysis data were used. For the future climate, the results of PGW simulations implemented using multiple GCM products were used as the forcing for the wave simulations. The remainder of this paper is organized as follows. In Section2, the data and wave model used in this study are described. In Section3, the results and a discussion of wave simulations are presented. Finally, in Section4, a summary of the study is provided.

2. Methods

2.1. Forcing Data forWave Simulations As forcing data for the wave model, this study used the results of dynamic downscaling by a numerical weather prediction model. Future variations of precipitation in the Kanto Region of Japan were investigated in [19]. Future precipitation characteristics were obtained by dynamic downscaling with PGW conditions, which were compared with the downscaling results of present climate condition forced by reanalysis data. The Weather Research and Forecasting model (WRF, [20]) version 3.4 was used for downscaling in [19]. For downscaling of present climate, Japanese 25-year reanalysis (JRA-25, [21]) were used as initial and boundary conditions. As forcing of downscaling future climate by WRF, the PGW conditions were obtained from five different global warming experiments as part of CMIP5 (listed in Table1). The climatological spatial patterns of atmospheric temperature and specific humidity around Japan are well-reproduced with the correlation coefficient higher than 0.8 in these five GCMs [19]. In the preparation of the PGW conditions, high temporal resolution (6 hourly) anomalies were produced as the differences between the 6-hourly future atmospheric conditions and the climatological monthly mean conditions of historical runs in each of the GCMs. Then, the PGW conditions were generated by adding the anomalies to the monthly mean climatology based on JRA-25. The historical climatological monthly mean conditions were taken as the 1996–2005 (or 2001–2010 for some GCMs output) averages, and the future conditions were taken as the 6-hourly products from 2060 to 2070 under the RCP4.5 emission scenario [3]. All the PGW conditions were based on the same climatological conditions (or JRA-25). Thus, the PGW method allows comparison of the results of one historical downscaling and multiple future conditions. Dynamic downscaling for the historical period was implemented for the period 2000–2010. The period of the historical downscaling (2000–2010) and the period to make the historical climatological monthly mean conditions (1996–2005 or 2001–2010) are different. But the difference between these periods are not significant to investigate climatological features. In the downscaling simulation by WRF, a two-domains nesting system was applied. The horizontal spatial resolutions of the parent and child domains were 30 km and 6 km, respectively [19].

Table 1. List of Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5 (CMIP5) model output used in this study.

No. IPCC ID Institute and Country Resolution Meteo-France, Centre Nationale de Resherches 1 CNRM-CM5 T127, L31 Meteorologique (France) 2 GFDL-CM3 Geophysical Laboratory (USA) 2.0 2.0 , L48 ◦ × ◦ 3 GISS-E2-R NASA/Goddard Institute for Space Studies (USA) 2.0 2.5 deg, L40 ◦ × ◦ Center for Climate System Research (University of Tokyo), National Institute for Environmental 4 MIROC5 T85, L40 Studies, and Frontier Research Center for Global Change (Japan) Meteorological Research Institute, Japan 5 MRI-CGCM3 T159, L48 Meteorological Agency (Japan) J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, x FOR PEER REVIEW 4 of 17 J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 150 4 of 16 In this study, the wave model was forced by zonal and meridional wind components at 10 m above the ground surface, which were obtained as dynamic downscaling results in [19]. Eleven years’ In this study, the wave model was forced by zonal and meridional wind components at 10 m output for the present (2000–2010) and future (2060–2070) periods were used for the wave simulation. above the ground surface, which were obtained as dynamic downscaling results in [19]. Eleven years’ In [19], PGW conditions were produced with projections from the five GCMs listed in Table 1. output for the present (2000–2010) and future (2060–2070) periods were used for the wave simulation. In this study, the wave simulations forced by future projections were named PGW-1, 2, … , 5 with In [19], PGW conditions were produced with projections from the five GCMs listed in Table1. the number of the GCM shown in Table 1. The historical wave simulation (or the results of the present In this study, the wave simulations forced by future projections were named PGW-1, 2, ... , 5 with the climate) was called CTL. number of the GCM shown in Table1. The historical wave simulation (or the results of the present 2.2.climate) Wave was Simulation called CTL.(WaveWatch III) 2.2. WaveWaveWatchIII Simulation (hereafter, (WaveWatch WW3) III) is a third-generation spectral wave model that was developed by NOAA/NCEP [22]. Wave climate around Japan was projected by WW3 with the forcing of wind WaveWatchIII (hereafter, WW3) is a third-generation spectral wave model that was developed speed from downscaling results mentioned in the previous section. A nesting method was applied to by NOAA/NCEP [22]. Wave climate around Japan was projected by WW3 with the forcing of wind obtain high resolution wave climate along the coast on the Japan Sea. The parent domain, with a 0.1° speed from downscaling results mentioned in the previous section. A nesting method was applied to resolution, covered the sea area around all parts of Japan. The inner domain had 0.033° horizontal obtain high resolution wave climate along the coast on the Japan Sea. The parent domain, with a 0.1◦ resolution and covered the sea area from the central to northern parts of the coast on the Japan Sea resolution, covered the sea area around all parts of Japan. The inner domain had 0.033◦ horizontal side (Figure 1). In the simulations, 24 wave directions were set with 15° intervals. Twenty-four wave resolution and covered the sea area from the central to northern parts of the coast on the Japan Sea frequencies were set from 0.04118 to 0.44617 Hz using an incremental factor of 1.1. The n-th frequency side (Figure1). In the simulations, 24 wave directions were set with 15 ◦ intervals. Twenty-four wave frequenciesf ()n is expressed were set by from 0.04118 to 0.44617 Hz using an incremental factor of 1.1. The n-th frequency f (n) is expressed by ()+= () (1) f nfnf (n11.1+ 1) = 1.1 f (n. ). (1)

Figure 1. Target domains of the wave simulation. Darker region is the parent domain and brighter Figureregion is1. theTarget child domains domain. of The the Nationwide wave simulation. Ocean WaveDarker information region is the network parent for domain Ports and and HArbourS brighter region(NOWPHAS) is the observationchild domain. sites The at Akita Nationwide and Kanazawa Ocean are Wave indicated information by red squares network with for initials Ports A and and HArbourSK, respectively. (NOWPHAS) observation sites at Akita and Kanazawa are indicated by red squares with initials A and K, respectively. For flux computation, following friction velocity u is used [22]. u is defined as follows: ∗ ∗ For flux computation, following frictionq velocity u* is used [22]. u* is defined as follows: 3 u = u10 (0.8 + 0.065u10)10− (2)(2) =+∗ ()−3 uu*100.8 0.065 u 10 10 The settings used for WW3 are shown in Table2. The settings used for WW3 are shown in Table 2.

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Table 2. Settings of WaveWatch III simulations.

Item Setting Grid type Spherical Propagation scheme ULTIMATE QUICKEST propagation scheme with Tolman averaging technique. Flux computation Computed with the friction velocity shown in equation (2). Linear input Cavaleri and Malanotte-Rizzoli with filter Input and dissipation Tolman and Chalikov (1996) source term package [23]. Nonlinear interaction Discrete interaction approximation Bottom friction JONSWAP bottom friction formulation Depth-induced breaking Battjes–Janssen Bottom scattering None Triad interaction None

As stated in Section1, the wave characteristics around Japan in winter were the focus of this study. Therefore, wave simulations were generated for the period October–February (five months). For the first year of the target period (i.e., 2000 or 2060), the simulation started in January. The simulation was terminated in December for the final year of the target period (i.e., 2010 or 2070). The results of the wave simulations were compared with observational data from the Nationwide Ocean Wave information network for Ports and HArbourS (NOWPHAS) in Japan. NOWPHAS is operated by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transportation, and Tourism and several other governmental agencies and research institutes in Japan. Wave observations are implemented at 78 sites around Japan, and products after 2001 are published on a website. This study used data observed at Kanazawa and Akita for validation.

3. Results

3.1. Validation of Present Wave Climate Simulated by WW3 The results of the wave simulation with historical forcing were validated with NOWPHAS observational data from Akita and Kanazawa. The historical wave simulations were made for 11 years but the comparison data were obtained during 2001–2010 because of NOWPHAS limitations. The output interval of the wave simulations was 1 h but the interval of NOWPHAS observations is 2 h. Therefore, the simulated wave characteristics were examined for the target periods (5 months from October to February in target years) with 2-hourly data (more than 16,000 data for the simulations and the observations). Figure2 shows comparisons of significant wave height ( Hs) and mean wave period (Tm) at the two observation sites. Significant wave height shows some scattering but no significant bias at either site. The correlation coefficient for Akita and Kanazawa is 0.83 and 0.86, respectively. At Akita, the maximum value of Hs is >8.0 m for both the simulation and the observation data. However, the simulated maximum Hs is about 6.0 m at Kanazawa, whereas the observed maximum Hs is >8.0 m. Thus, high waves are slightly underestimated by WW3 at Kanazawa. The mean wave period varies more widely than Hs and the correlation coefficient is 0.70 and 0.64 for Akita and Kanazawa, respectively. However, there is no significant bias in Tm. These results indicate good agreement between the simulated and the observed wave climates. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. Eng. 20192019,, 77,, x 150 FOR PEER REVIEW 6 of 17 16

Figure 2. Significant wave height (Hs) and mean wave period (Tm) by NOWPHAS observation and Figure 2. (Hs) and mean wave period (Tm) by NOWPHAS observation and WaveWatchIII (WW3) simulation. (a) Hs at Akita, (b) Hs at Kanazawa, (c) Tm at Akita, and (d) Tm at WaveWatchIII (WW3) simulation. (a) Hs at Akita, (b) Hs at Kanazawa, (c) Tm at Akita, and (d) Tm at Kanazawa. Horizontal and vertical axes of each panel represent NOWPHAS and WW3, respectively. Kanazawa. Horizontal and vertical axes of each panel represent NOWPHAS and WW3, respectively.

Figure3 shows the spatial distributions of climatological significant wave height ( Hs) and maximumFigure significant 3 shows the wave spatial height distributions (Hs_max) in winter of climatological (December–February: significant DJF) wave in theheight parent ( H domains ) and maximumduring the significant target period wave for theheight wave (Hs_max simulation.) in winter Over (December–February: a wide area of the Japan DJF) Seain the side, parentHs along domain the coast is >2.1 m, whereas it is smaller (~0.9 m) along the coast on the Pacific side. In winter, strong during the target period for the wave simulation. Over a wide area of the Japan Sea side, H s along northwesterly winds that blow over the Japan Sea cause higher ocean waves. Therefore, H in the coast is >2.1 m, whereas it is smaller (~0.9 m) along the coast on the Pacific side. In winter,s_max strong winter is >10 m over the northern half of the coastal area on the Japan Sea side, whereas it is >10 m northwesterly winds that blow over the Japan Sea cause higher ocean waves. Therefore, Hs_max in near only a limited area of the coast on the Pacific side. winter is >10 m over the northern half of the coastal area on the Japan Sea side, whereas it is >10 m Figure4 illustrates the spatial distributions of climatological mean wave period ( T ) and maximum near only a limited area of the coast on the Pacific side. m mean wave period (Tm_max) in DJF during the target period. On the Japan Sea side, waves with Tm > 7 s Figure 4 illustrates the spatial distributions of climatological mean wave period ( T ) and reach the coast. On the Pacific side, waves with Tm of 5.0–5.5 s are found over a wide area. Therem are maximumsome differences mean wave between period the ( spatialTm_max) in patterns DJF during of Tm theand targetHs but period. the same On the tendencies Japan Sea (ocean side, waves withare larger Tm >7 on s thereach Japan the coast. Sea side) On the can Pacific be recognized side, waves within with them. Tm of The 5.0–5.5 values s are of foundTm_max overin CTL a wide are comparable between the Japan Sea side and the Pacific side. However, there are clear differences area. There are some differences between the spatial patterns of Tm and H s but the same between the spatial patterns of Tm_max and Hs_max in CTL. tendencies (ocean waves are larger on the Japan Sea side) can be recognized within them. The values of Tm_max in CTL are comparable between the Japan Sea side and the Pacific side. However, there are clear differences between the spatial patterns of Tm_max and Hs_max in CTL.

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Figure 3. Results of Hs for historical wave simulation by WW3. (a) Climatological mean Hs ( H s ) for

FigureDecember–February 3. Results of H (DJF)s for historicaland (b) maximum wave simulation Hs (Hs_max by) during WW3. the (a) target Climatological period (2000–2010). mean Hs ( HUnits) for of Figure 3. Results of Hs for historical wave simulation by WW3. (a) Climatological mean Hs ( H s ) for December–Februarycolor bars is m. (DJF) and (b) maximum Hs (Hs_max) during the target period (2000–2010). Unit of colorDecember–February bars is m. (DJF) and (b) maximum Hs (Hs_max) during the target period (2000–2010). Unit of color bars is m.

Figure 4. Results of Tm for historical wave simulation by WW3. (a) Climatological mean Tm (Tm) for

DJFFigure and 4. (b Results) maximum of TmT form ( Thistoricalm_max) during wave thesimulation target period by WW3. (2000–2010). (a) Climatological Unit of color mean bars Tm is ( s.Tm ) for

DJF and (b) maximum Tm (Tm_max) during the target period (2000–2010). Unit of color bars is s. 3.2. FutureFigure Variations 4. Results of of Wave Tm for Characteristics historical wave around simulation Japan by WW3. (a) Climatological mean Tm (Tm ) for 3.2. FutureTheDJF Japan and Variations (b Sea) maximum is of rather Wave Tm enclosedCharacteristics (Tm_max) during and itsthearound wavetarget Japan characteristicsperiod (2000–2010) are. Unit affected of color largely bars is by s. the wind climate over the Japan Sea. Figure5 shows the climatological mean wind speed in winter (DJF) and 3.2. TheFuture Japan Variations Sea is ofrather Wave enclosed Characteristics and its around wave Japan characteristics are affected largely by the wind t itsclimate future over variations. the Japan Here, Sea. Welch’sFigure 5 -testshows [24 the] was climatological applied to examinemean wind the speed significance in winter ofdi (DJF)fference and The Japan Sea is rather enclosed and its wave characteristics are affected largely by the wind betweenits future the variations. climatological Here, meanWelch’s wind t-test speed [24] in was present applied and to in examine future climate. the significance CTL shows of thatdifference mean climate over the Japan Sea. Figure 5 showsU the climatological mean wind speed in winter (DJF) and windbetween speed the at climatological 10 m above the mean sea surface wind speed ( 10) isin 9pres m/sent or moreand in around future Japan climate. during CTL winter. shows Inthat PGW-1, mean 3,its 4, future and 5 variations. increasing tendenciesHere, Welch’s of Ut-test10 can [24] be was seen applied over the to Japanexamine Sea, the and significance these tendencies of difference are wind speed at 10 m above the sea surface (U ) is 9 m/s or more around Japan during winter. In statisticallybetween the significant climatological in wide mean areas. wind Although speed PGW-210in present shows and a in decreasing future climate. or small CTL variation shows that over mean the JapanPGW-1, Sea, 3, it4, isand not 5 statisticallyincreasing tendencies significant of along U the can coast. be seen These over results the Japan indicate Sea, the and high these likelihood tendencies of wind speed at 10 m above the sea surface (10U10 ) is 9 m/s or more around Japan during winter. In anare increasing statistically tendency significant of H ins inwide winter areas. over Although the Japan PGW-2 Sea. Onshows the a Pacific decreasing side, widespreador small variation significant over PGW-1, 3, 4, and 5 increasing tendencies of U10 can be seen over the Japan Sea, and these tendencies changesthe Japan of USea,10 are it foundis not onlystatistically in two PGW significant runs (i.e., along PGW-1 the andcoast. 5), andThese there results are larger indicate uncertainties the high ofareU statisticallyin the Pacific. significant in wide areas. Although PGW-2 shows a decreasing or small variation over likelihood10 of an increasing tendency of H in winter over the Japan Sea. On the Pacific side, the Japan Sea, it is not statistically significants along the coast. These results indicate the high widespread significant changes of U are found only in two PGW runs (i.e., PGW-1 and 5), and likelihood of an increasing tendency10 of H s in winter over the Japan Sea. On the Pacific side, there are larger uncertainties of U in the Pacific. widespread significant changes of10 U10 are found only in two PGW runs (i.e., PGW-1 and 5), and

there are larger uncertainties of U10 in the Pacific.

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Figure 5. Spatial distribution of mean wind speed. (a) Climatological mean winter wind speed (U10) of CTL, and (b)–(f) future variations of U in each PGW simulation. Left-hand color bar is for U Figure 5. Spatial distribution of mean wind10 speed. (a) Climatological mean winter wind speed (U1010 in CTL and right-hand color bar is for future variations of U10. Unit of color bars is m/s. Areas with statistically) of CTL, and significant (b)–(f) future variation variations are indicated of U10 by in hatching. each PGW simulation. Left-hand color bar is for

U10 in CTL and right-hand color bar is for future variations of U10 . Unit of color bars is m/s. Areas Figure6 shows the di fferences in Hs in winter between the future and present climates. In PGW-1, with statistically significant variation are indicated by hatching. Hs is larger than in the present climate over a wide area of the parent domain. Almost all the increasing tendencies are statistically significant. The results of PGW-5 also show a statistically significant increase Figure 6 shows the differences in H in winter between the future and present climates. In in Hs over wide areas. Larger values of Hs sin the future are also found in PGW-4 but mainly on the

JapanPGW-1, Sea H side.s is larger In PGW-3, than in an the increasing present climate tendency over of aH wides is recognized area of the around parent domain. Japan, whereas Almost noall significantthe increasing increase tendencies is evident are onstatistically the Japan significan Sea side. Conversely,t. The results PGW-2 of PGW-5 shows also the show opposite a statistically tendency, but without any statistically significant variation in the coastal area on the Japan Sea side. The patterns significant increase in H s over wide areas. Larger values of H s in the future are also found in of Hs variation are similar to U10, which indicate the climatology of Hs is controlled primarily by U10. PGW-4Figure but7 mainly shows on the the variations Japan Sea of side.Hs_max In PGW-3,in the future an increasing climate. tendency On the Pacificof H s side, is recognized all PGW simulationsaround Japan, show whereas decreasing no significantHs_max along increase the southernis evident parts on the of theJapan coast Sea (south side. Conversely, of 35◦ N), and PGW-2 four PGWshows simulations the opposite (except tendency, PGW-2) but without show slight any increasingstatistically tendencies significant in variation northern in parts. the coastal On the area Japan on Sea side, Hs_max increases somewhat to the west of 135◦ E, but to the east of this longitude, no common the Japan Sea side. The patterns of H s variation are similar to U10 , which indicate the climatology characteristics are evident in the variation of Hs_max in the future climate. Figure8 shows the maximum of H is controlled primarily by U . wind speeds in winter (U10_max) for CTL,10 and its differences between CTL and each PGW run. On the Pacific side, the patterns of future variation of U10_max and Hs_max show some similarities in each of the PGW simulations. However, decreasing U10_max is found to the west of 136◦ E on the Japan Sea side, whereas increasing Hs_max is found in PGW-1, 2, 4, and 5. This result indicates Hs_max in the west of the Japan Sea side is affected not only by local but also by remote wind conditions. In the eastern part of the Japan Sea side, as seen in Hs_max, U10_max does not show any common tendency between the five PGW simulations. These results indicate Hs_max is only somewhat affected by U10_max.

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J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, x FOR PEER REVIEW 10 of 17 Figure 6. (a)–(e) Future variations of Hs in each PGW simulation. Areas with statistically significant variation are indicated by hatching. Unit of color bar is m. Figure 6. (a)–(e) Future variations of H s in each PGW simulation. Areas with statistically significant variation are indicated by hatching. Unit of color bar is m.

Figure 7 shows the variations of Hs_max in the future climate. On the Pacific side, all PGW simulations show decreasing Hs_max along the southern parts of the coast (south of 35°N), and four PGW simulations (except PGW-2) show slight increasing tendencies in northern parts. On the Japan Sea side, Hs_max increases somewhat to the west of 135°E, but to the east of this longitude, no common characteristics are evident in the variation of Hs_max in the future climate. Figure 8 shows the maximum wind speed in winter (U10 _ max ) for CTL, and its differences between CTL and each PGW run. On the

Pacific side, the patterns of future variation of U10 _ max and Hs_max show some similarities in each of the PGW simulations. However, decreasing U10 _ max is found to the west of 136°E on the Japan Sea side, whereas increasing Hs_max is found in PGW-1, 2, 4, and 5. This result indicates Hs_max in the west of the Japan Sea side is affected not only by local but also by remote wind conditions. In the eastern part of the Japan Sea side, as seen in Hs_max, U10 _ max does not show any common tendency between the five PGW simulations. These results indicate Hs_max is only somewhat affected by U10 _ max .

Figure 7. (a)–(e) Future variations of Hs_max in each PGW simulation. Unit of color bar is m. Figure 7. (a)–(e) Future variations of Hs_max in each PGW simulation. Unit of color bar is m.

Figure 8. Spatial distribution of maximum wind speed (U10 _ max ) in the target period. (a) U10 _ max

in CTL, and (b)–(f) future variations of U10 _ max in each PGW simulation. Left-hand color bar is for

U10 _ max in CTL and right-hand color bar is for future variations of U10 _ max . Unit of color bars is m/s.

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J. Mar. Sci. Eng.Figure2019 7., 7 ,(a 150)–(e) Future variations of Hs_max in each PGW simulation. Unit of color bar is m. 10 of 16

Figure 8. Spatial distribution of maximum wind speed (U10_max) in the target period. (a) U10_max in

CTL,Figure and 8. (Spatialb)–(f) future distribution variations of maximum of U10_max inwind each speed PGW ( simulation.U10 _ max ) in Left-hand the target color period. bar is(a for) UU1010_ _max in CTL and right-hand color bar is for future variations of U10_max. Unit of color bars is m/s. in CTL, and (b)–(f) future variations of U10 _ max in each PGW simulation. Left-hand color bar is for

FigureU10 _ max9 shows in CTL di andfferences right-hand of Tcolorm between bar is for CTL future and variations each PGW of U run10 _ duringmax . Unit winter. of color The bars results is of PGW-1m/s. and 4 show statistically significant increasing trends along the coast of the Japan Sea. A decreasing wave period is recognized in PGW-2, except for the northern part of the Japan Sea side. Neither PGW-3 nor 5 show significant variations of Tm on the Japan Sea side. On the Pacific side, PGW-1 shows a significant increase but the opposite result is found in PGW-2. In the other three PGW runs, there are no clear variations on the Pacific side. The patterns of future variation of Tm and U10 show some similarities in PGW-1, and 4, but certain differences in PGW-2, 3, and 5. These results indicate Tm is affected less by U10 than Hs. Figure 10 shows the results of the maximum wave period (Tm_max). All of the five PGW simulations show different patterns of future variation of Tm_max, making it difficult to discern any common characteristics. In comparison with future variations of U10_max (Figure8), PGW-2 does show some similarity, but the patterns of future variations of U10_max and Tm_max are clearly different in the other four PGW runs. The results in Figures9 and 10 do not show robust relationship between the wave period and wind speed. It indicates that statistical approaches fail to estimate future variations in wave period by using wind speed, but numerical wave simulations are indispensable. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, x FOR PEER REVIEW 11 of 17

Figure 9 shows differences of Tm between CTL and each PGW run during winter. The results of PGW-1 and 4 show statistically significant increasing trends along the coast of the Japan Sea. A decreasing wave period is recognized in PGW-2, except for the northern part of the Japan Sea side.

Neither PGW-3 nor 5 show significant variations of Tm on the Japan Sea side. On the Pacific side, PGW-1 shows a significant increase but the opposite result is found in PGW-2. In the other three

PGW runs, there are no clear variations on the Pacific side. The patterns of future variation of Tm and U10 show some similarities in PGW-1, and 4, but certain differences in PGW-2, 3, and 5. These results indicate Tm is affected less by U10 than H s . Figure 10 shows the results of the maximum wave period (Tm_max). All of the five PGW simulations show different patterns of future variation of Tm_max, making it difficult to discern any common characteristics. In comparison with future variations of U10 _ max (Figure 8), PGW-2 does show some similarity, but the patterns of future variations of

U10 _ max and Tm_max are clearly different in the other four PGW runs. The results in Figures 9 and 10 do not show robust relationship between the wave period and wind speed. It indicates that statistical approaches fail to estimate future variations in wave period by using wind speed, but numerical J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 150 11 of 16 wave simulations are indispensable.

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, x FOR PEER REVIEW 12 of 17 Figure 9. (a)–(e) Future variations of Tm in each PGW simulation. Areas with statistically significant

variationFigure 9. are(a)–( indicatede) Futureby variations hatching. of UnitTm of incolor each barPGW is sec.simulation. Areas with statistically significant variation are indicated by hatching. Unit of color bar is sec.

Figure 10. (a)–(e) Future variations of Tm_max in each PGW simulation. Unit of color bar is sec. Figure 10. (a)–(e) Future variations of Tm_max in each PGW simulation. Unit of color bar is sec. 3.3. Details of Future Variations of Wave Characteristics at Kanazawa and Akita 3.3. DetailsDetails of of Future the future Variations variations of Wave of waveCharacteristics characteristics at Kanazawa at Kanazawa and Akita and Akita were investigated. FigureDetails 11 shows of the the future top 1%variations (about 4000of wave values) characteristics of Hs and atTm Kanazawaat the two and sites. Akita The were results investigated. of PGW-2 showFigure the 11 topshows 1% the of Htops is 1% smaller (about than 4000 CTL values) at both of H sites.s and ForTm atT mthe, the two results sites. ofThe PGW-2 results are of slightlyPGW-2 smallershow the than top CTL 1% atof Akita Hs is butsmaller comparable than CTL at Kanazawa.at both sites. PGW-3 For T showsm, the thatresultsHs andof PGW-2Tm are comparableare slightly smaller than CTL at Akita but comparable at Kanazawa. PGW-3 shows that Hs and Tm are comparable with CTL at both Akita and Kanazawa. The results of PGW-1, 4, and 5 show the top 1% of Hs and Tm are larger than CTL. Figures 7 and 10 do not show any significant or common features in future variations of Hs_max and Tm_max. However, Figure 11 does show larger ocean waves affect the coast on the Japan Sea side more frequently in more than half of the PGW simulations. This might not cause severe damage but it could change the coastal environment.

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 150 12 of 16

with CTL at both Akita and Kanazawa. The results of PGW-1, 4, and 5 show the top 1% of Hs and Tm are larger than CTL. Figures7 and 10 do not show any significant or common features in future variations of Hs_max and Tm_max. However, Figure 11 does show larger ocean waves affect the coast on the Japan Sea side more frequently in more than half of the PGW simulations. This might not cause severeJ. Mar. Sci. damage Eng. 2019 but, 7 it, x couldFOR PEER change REVIEW the coastal environment. 13 of 17

Figure 11. Top 1% (about top 4000) of Hs and Tm at Akita and Kanazawa. (a) Hs at Akita, (b) Hs at Figure 11. Top 1% (about top 4000) of Hs and Tm at Akita and Kanazawa. (a) Hs at Akita, (b) Hs at Kanazawa, (c) Tm at Akita, and (d) Tm at Kanazawa. Horizontal axis is rank and vertical axis is Hs for Kanazawa, (c) Tm at Akita, and (d) Tm at Kanazawa. Horizontal axis is rank and vertical axis is Hs for (a) and (b), and Tm for (c) and (d). (a) and (b), and Tm for (c) and (d). Figure 12 presents the frequency distributions of the wave climate at Akita. The higher class of valuesFigure of wave 12 characteristicspresents the frequency was investigated distributions in Figure of the 11wave, whereas climate variations at Akita. inThe the higher lower class class of values of wave characteristics was investigated in Figure 11, whereas variations in the lower class of of values are the focus here. The results of Hs show small variations in PGW-2 and 3, but the other values are the focus here. The results of Hs show small variations in PGW-2 and 3, but the other three three future simulations show an increasing frequency in Hs > 1.5–3.0 m and a decreasing frequency in future simulations show an increasing frequency in Hs >1.5–3.0 m and a decreasing frequency in Hs Hs of 0.0–1.5 m. The results of Tm show an increasing frequency of waves with periods >6 s and a decreasingof 0.0–1.5 frequencym. The results of waves of withTm show periods an 6 not s showand a decreasing frequency of waves with periods <6 s in PGW-1, 4, and 5. In Figure 9, PGW-2 does not an increasing tendency of Tm, whereas Figure 12 does show a slight increase in Tm of 6–9 s at Akita. Frequencyshow an increasing distributions tendency of significant of Tm , wavelengthwhereas Figure show 12smaller does show variations a slight in increase PGW-3. in The Tm resultsof 6–9 s of at PGW-1Akita. andFrequency 5 show distributions a clear decrease of significant in waves with wavelength wavelengths show< 60smaller m and variations a significant in PGW-3. increase The in wavesresults with of PGW-1 longer wavelengths.and 5 show a PGW-2clear decrease and 4 also in waves show awith decrease wavelengths in shorter <60 wavelengths m and a significant and an increaseincrease in in longer waves wavelengths with longer but wavelengths. the variations PGW-2 are smaller and than4 also PGW-1 show and a decrease 5. Wave directionsin shorter alsowavelengths show some and di ffanerences increase in thein longer future. wavelengths PGW-1 and but PGW-5 the variations show a clear are increasesmaller than in ocean PGW-1 waves and from5. Wave the SW–Wdirections and also a decrease show some in waves differences from in the the S–SW future. and PGW-1 W–NW. and It PGW-5 indicates show that a clear waves increase from thein ocean west willwaves increase from the in futureSW–W atand Akita. a decrease However, in waves the otherfrom the three S–SW PGW and runs W–NW. do not It indicates present any that commonwaves from characteristics. the west will increase in future at Akita. However, the other three PGW runs do not present any common characteristics.

J.J. Mar. Mar. Sci. Sci. Eng.Eng.2019 2019,,7 7,, 150 x FOR PEER REVIEW 13 14 of of 16 17

Figure 12. Frequency distribution of wave characteristics at Akita. (a) Hs,(b) Tm,(c) mean wavelength, andFigure (d) wave12. Frequency direction. distribution Frequencies of are wave shown characteristics in %. at Akita. (a) Hs, (b) Tm, (c) mean wavelength, and (d) wave direction. Frequencies are shown in %. Figure 13 is the same as Figure 12 but for Kanazawa. An increasing frequency of higher values of Hs is evidentFigure 13 in is PGW-1, the same 4, andas Figure 5, whereas 12 but PGW-2 for Kana andzawa. 3 show An increasing a small increase frequency in smaller of higher values values of Hofs (0.0–1.5Hs is evident m). PGW-2 in PGW-1, shows 4, and an increase 5, whereas in H PGW-2s of 1.5–3.0 and 3 m show but a a decrease small increase in larger in smallerHs in the values future. of TheHs (0.0–1.5 results ofm).T mPGW-2show anshows increase an increase in longer in periodHs of 1.5–3.0 waves m in but PGW-1, a decrease 4, 5, and in larger an increase Hs in the in shorter future. periodThe results waves of (3–6 Tm show s) inPGW-3. an increase There in arelonger small period variations waves of inT mPGW-1,in PGW-2. 4, 5, Theand resultsan increase of wavelength in shorter showperiod similar waves tendencies (3–6 s) in toPGW-3.Tm (Figure There 13 arec). small Wave directionsvariations showof Tm similarin PGW-2. tendencies The results in future of wavelength variation amongshow similar the five tendencies PGW simulations to Tm at(Figure Kanazawa. 13c). TheWave frequency directions of wavesshow fromsimilar the tendencies NW–N decreases in future in thevariation five PGW among runs, the whereas five PGW waves simulations from W–NW at increaseKanazawa. in frequencyThe frequency in PGW-1, of waves 2, 4, andfrom 5. the In PGW-3,NW–N wavesdecreases from in SW–W the five increase PGW runs, slightly whereas in the waves future. from These W–NW results increase indicate in the frequency high probability in PGW-1, of 2, an 4, increaseand 5. In in PGW-3, the frequency waves offrom waves SW–W from increase the west slightly in the futurein the atfuture. Kanazawa. These results indicate the high probabilityIt is indicated of an increase that, as well in the as thefrequency extreme of wave waves climate, from the dailywest wavein the climatefuture at is alsoKanazawa. important [5]. Ocean waves with small values of Hs do not affect the coastal environment over short periods, but the accumulated effects of changes in the wave climate might have an impact on coastal areas. Figure 11 shows that, although not extreme, relatively higher waves will occur more frequently in the future. Figure5, Figure 12, and Figure 13 all indicate that the daily Hs will be greater in the future climate modeled in PGW-1, 4, and 5. Based on this analysis, the impacts of changes in wave climate should be discussed. Furthermore, it is recognized that detailed simulations are indispensable for planning, design, and assessment in relation to coastal environments.

J.J. Mar.Mar. Sci.Sci. Eng.Eng. 20192019,, 77,, 150x FOR PEER REVIEW 14 15 ofof 1617

Figure 13. Frequency distribution of wave characteristics at Kanazawa. (a) Hs,(b) Tm,(c) mean wavelength,Figure 13. Frequency and (d) wave distribution direction. of Frequencies wave characteristics are shownin at %. Kanazawa. (a) Hs, (b) Tm, (c) mean wavelength, and (d) wave direction. Frequencies are shown in %. 4. Conclusions UsingIt is indicated a third-generation that, as well wave as the model, extreme the wave winter climate, wave the climate daily of wave the Japanclimate Sea is also was important projected based[5]. Ocean on five waves different with GCM small products. values of SeaHs do surface not affect wind the speed, coastal which environment was used for over forcing short the periods, wave simulation,but the accumulated showed significant effects of enhancementchanges in the in wave the Japan climate Sea might under have the condition an impact of on global coastal warming areas. inFigure four 11 out shows of five that, future although projections. not extreme, Corresponding relatively tohigher the enhanced waves will wind, occur the more mean frequently significant in wavethe future. height Figures over the 5, Japan12, and Sea 13 is all projected indicate tothat become the daily greater Hs will in the be futuregreater climate. in the future In one climate future projectionmodeled in (PGW-2), PGW-1, clear4, and variations 5. Based on were this not analys recognizedis, the impacts in sea surface of changes wind in and wave mean climate significant should wavebe discussed. height along Furthermore, the coast it ofis therecognized Japan Sea. that Thedetailed mean simulations wave period aredid indispensable not showany for planning, common tendencydesign, and in assessment the five future in relation projections. to coastal The maximaenvironments. of significant wave height and of mean wave period also did not show clear future variations in the Japan Sea. The top 1% of significant wave heights4. Conclusions and mean wave periods indicated higher and longer wavelength ocean waves in more than half ofUsing the future a third-generation projections. In wave two futuremodel, projections the winter(PGW-2 wave climate and PGW-3), of the Japan top 1% Sea significant was projected wave heightbased on and five mean different wave periodGCM products. are comparable Sea surface to or smallerwind speed, than inwhich the present was used climate. for forcing The frequency the wave distributionssimulation, showed of significant significant wave enhancement height, mean in wave the Japan period, Sea mean under wave the condition length, and of global wave directionwarming showedin four out a range of five of future different projections. variations Correspond among theing five to the future enhanced projections. wind, the Significant mean significant wave height wave showedheight over a certain the Japan shift Sea in several is projected future to projections. become grea Theseter inresults the future indicate climate. that, In although one future not projection extreme, the(PGW-2), daily significant clear variations wave were height not will recognized become greater in sea alongsurface the wind coast and of mean the Japan significant Sea. The wave frequency height distributionsalong the coast of theof the mean Japan wave Sea. period The mean and wavelengthwave period also did indicated not show that any daily common ocean tendency waves would in the becomefive future longer. projections. The results The maxima of wave of directions significant showed wave height an increasing and of mean frequency wave ofperiod waves also from did thenot westshow in clear four future projections variations at Kanazawa. in the Japan Daily Sea. The ocean top waves 1% of cannotsignificant cause wave severe heights disasters and mean or change wave theperiods topography indicated and higher environment and longer of the wavelength coast over shortocean periods. waves in However, more than the repetitivehalf of the eff futureect of oceanprojections. waves In could two future have certainprojections impact (PGW-2 on coastal and PGW-3), areas over top the1% longsignificant term. wave Therefore, height changes and mean in dailywave oceanperiod climate are comparable cannot be to neglected, or smaller andthan long-term in the present simulations climate. The of coastal frequency morphology distributions or the of significant wave height, mean wave period, mean wave length, and wave direction showed a range

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7, 150 15 of 16 coastal environment are recognized as indispensable in assessing future variations and for preparing adaptation strategies. Some future variations are common among more than half the multiple projections using different GCMs, but there are uncertainties that remain in the results of the wave simulations. For example, in the northern part of the Japan Sea showed an opposite tendency of variation (Figure6), i.e., both increasing and decreasing tendencies were statistically significant in that area. In [16], a statistical downscaling method was applied using multiple GCM projections to estimate global wave height and , and opposite (i.e., increasing and decreasing) trends of Hs were found in different regions. At the same time, large uncertainties in the projected values of Hs for different GCMs were also reported. Ocean waves are controlled by local/remote sea surface winds, but the projections of GCMs and the outputs of weather forecasting models are not perfect. In this moment, it is difficult to elicit definitive conclusions of future variations of wave climate along the coast of the Japan Sea. But, in order to exploit available future projections, a probabilistic evaluation method should be established using multiple model outputs. Furthermore, bias correction of the forcing data could be a useful method to prevent some of the uncertainties. To utilize future projections based on multiple global experiments, the development of postprocessing techniques or methods for interpretation will be indispensable. Numerical wave simulations can provide wave spectra. In this study, changes in Hs and Tm were examined, but from a scientific point of view, the reasons behind the changes in wave climate are of greater interest. Using wave spectra, the causes of the changes in wave characteristics (e.g., effects of local wind waves or remotely developed swell) could be investigated. This would enable an assessment of their impact and further the understanding of the mechanism of variations in wave climate, which is an important challenge in this field.

Author Contributions: K.T. proposed the topic, conceived and designed the study. K.T. carried out numerical simulations, analyzed the simulation results, and constructed manuscript. Funding: This research received no external funding. Acknowledgments: The author is grateful for the use of CMIP5 products archived and published by the Program for Climate Model Diagnosis and Intercomparison (PCMDI), and to all the research institutes contributing to this activity. The Japanese 25-year reanalysis data were provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA) and the Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry (CRIEPI). The author also thanks the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport, and Tourism (MLIT) in Japan for archiving and publishing the NOWPHAS data. Conflicts of Interest: The author declares no conflict of interest.

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