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88/74 of California Regional Oral History Office University The Bancroft Library Berkeley, California The Wine Spectator California Winemen Oral History Series Norbert C. and Edmund A. Mirassou THE EVOLUTION OF A SANTA CLARA VALLEY WINERY With an Introduction by Maynard A. Amerine An Interview Conducted by Ruth Teiser in 1984 The of the of California Copyright (T) 1986 by Regents University All uses of this manuscript are covered by a legal agreement between the University of California and Norbert C. and Edmund A. Mirassou dated July 29, 1986. The manuscript is thereby made available for research purposes. All literary rights in the manuscript, including the right to publish, are reserved to The Bancroft Library of the University of California at Berkeley. No part of the manuscript may be quoted for publication without the written permission of the. Director of The Bancroft Library of the University of California at Berkeley. Requests for permission to quote for publication should be addressed to the Regional Oral History Office, 486 Library, and should include identification of the specific passages to be quoted, anticipated use of the passages, and identification of the user. The legal agreement with Norbert C. and Edmund A. Mirassou requires that they be notified of the request and allowed thirty days in which to respond. It is recommended that this oral history be cited as follows : Norbert C. and Edmund A. Mirassou, "The Evolution of a Santa Clara Valley Winery," an oral history conducted in 1985 by Ruth Teiser, Regional Oral History Office, The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, 1986. Copy No. NORBERT C. and EDMUND A. MIRASSOU 1986 Photograph by Ruth Teiser SAN FRANCISCO EXAMINER May 3, 1992 ure. He was 77. Norbert C. Mirassou Mr. Mirassou and his brother, Winemaker Edmund, ran the Mirassou winery for more than 30 years before EXAMINER NEWS SERVICES handing the business over to three SAN JOSE Norbert C. Mir nephews, the family's fifth genera tion of winemakers. assou, a fourth-generation wine- maker known for his down-to- A colorful character known as earth management style, died "Mr. Norb" or simply "Norb," Mr. Thursday of congestive heart fail Mirassou favored Hawaiian shirts and made a point of greeting sever al dozen employees each day. "He was very precious to me and my brothers," said Dan Miras sou, one of the nephews who now run the winery. Edmund Mirassou credited his brother for bringing sprinklers into the grape fields. "Sprinkler systems had been used on alfalfa and in pastures, but Norbert adopted it" for their vine yards, he said. Soon afterward, wineries across the state began us ing similar methods, he said. Mr. Mirassou also rigged a fork- lift that could run on the fields' muddy terrain in order to bring boxed grapes rather than having them carried by hand. Mr. Mirassou was a founding member and former chairman of the California Wine Advisory Board, member of the Wine Insti tute and member of the Santa Cla ra County Winegrowers Associa tion. Besides his brother, Mr. Miras sou is survived by his wife, Ruth; a sister; a son; a daughter; four grandchildren; and two great grandchildren. E2 San 3tanci5co <tyromdf OBITUARIES Edmund Mirassou Edmund of Mirassou, patriarch In 1977, Mr. Mirassou comment the oldest in ed on winemaking family winery history in California: the United died States, Wednesday "People do not realize how much in San Jose. He was 78. the image and economics of fine Mr. Mirassou was born in San winemaking have changed. Until Jose, hi the fourth generation of 1950 winemakers were viewed as the viticultural family descended bootleggers, not artists. Fine wine- from Louis Pellier, who came to making was also not profitable. You California with grape cuttings hi have to have a rich uncle or 1848, and his brother Pierre, who outside money." arrived in 1850. Mr. Mirassou was also known as a Mr. Mirassou attended San Jose critic of how expanding subdivi sions State College. In 1937, he took over transformed the central the Mirassou vineyard, which coast. dates from 1854. He it ran for 30 He is survived by sons James years with his brother Peter Norbert, and Daniel, and a daughter who died in 1992. Colleen, all of San Jose. Mr. Mirassou became president A funeral will be held at 10 a.m. of the winery in 1960. Until the at the today Carmelite Monastery 1960s, most of Mirassou's business 12455 Clayton Road, San Jose, fol was in with wine bulk, transported lowed by a wake at noon at the in barrels and casks, by ship and Mirassou Winery in San Jose. to tram, other wineries which sold Stephen Schwartz the product under their own la bels. The business was centered in a major Santa Clara valley holding of 400 acres until 1961, when the family acquired the 300-acre Mis sion Ranch at Soledad, followed by the nearby 650-acre San Vicente Ranch. The Mirassou brothers intro duced various innovations, includ ing an overhead sprinkling system that made it possible to grow vines in Monterey County. The county was attractive for wine grapes be cause, unlike Sonoma and Napa, it had no history of Phylloxera, the dreaded louse that has devastated vines of European origin. The company's success contrib uted to the rise of the Central v Coast as a major re-3Pf ' winemaking -. &%^>T Wine Institute July 31, 1996 Edmund Mirassou, a former WI chairman of the board and key figure tarnunaFH H MirassouM' < in tne California wine industry, passed away July 24 in San Jose after Passes at 78 Away a short illness. After taking over the family's enterprise in 1937, Mirassou and his brother Norbert built it into one of the state's most successful wineries. Their families' contributions to the wine indus try include developing the first permanent vineyard irrigation sys tem, testing and advancing mechanized grape harvesting and pio neering commercial winegrowing in Monterey County. Mirassou was also chairman for 20 years of the Wine Advisory Board and an advisor to the Governor for the State Board of Food and Agriculture. He was instrumental in founding the American Vineyard Foundation and the Winegrowers of California and was the Winegrower's first chairman. He was named "Man of the Year" in 1979 by "Wines and Vines" magazine. In lieu of flowers, the family requests that donations be sent to the Carmelite Monastery in San Jose or the American Vineyard Foundation, P.O. Box 414, Oakviiie, CA 94562. Wines and Vines September 1996 California wine industry. He and his late brother, Norbert, turned the winery, in San Jose's Evergreen district near Mt. Hamilton, from a bulk producer to a producer of case- goods. Ed Mirassou was known for his dedication to the industry, and was a former chairman of Wine Institute and for 20 years was chairman of the-then Wine Advisory Board. He was a founder of the American Vineyard Founda tion and in 1979 was named "Man of the Year" by Wines & Vines magazine. He and his brother, Norbert, who died in 1992 and was known for his garish sport shirts, operated the winery since 1937. The founder of the winery was Pierre Pellier, Ed's great-grandfather, who brought vine cuttings from his native France in the 1850s. Edmund Mirassou believed in giving something back to society; in that regard, he was a board member of the Santa Clara Valley Water District, the Evergreen Soil Conserva tion District and Alexian Brothers Hospital. He also was a marketing advisor for Santa Clara University and the University of San Francisco. He was preceded in death by his wife of 56 years, Millie, last September. Survivors in clude sons Daniel, Peter and James, daughter EDMUND A. Colleen, 12 grandchildren and 18 great-grand children. MIRASSOU The family requested donations be made to the Carmelite Monastery in San Jose (12445 DIES AT 78 Clayton Road) or the American Vineyard Foundation, (P.O. Box 414, Oakville, Calif. Edmund A. Mirassou, a leader of the Cal 94562). Mirassou what is about ifornia wine industry and wine family patri (Ed personified special the wine He was a man who arch, died July 24 at San Jose. He had had heart industry. special achieved much in his all-too-short Those surgery and surgeons later discovered he had lifespan. acute leukemia. who knew him are privileged; he shall be missed Ed Mirassou was a longtime leader of the Ed.) TABLE OF CONTENTS Norbert C. and Edmund A. Mirassou PREFACE i INTRODUCTION, by Maynard A. Amerine v INTERVIEW HISTORY vi BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES vii INTERVIEW WITH NORBERT C. MIRASSOU I EARLY YEARS, 1914-1937 1 Peter L. Mirassou and His Family 1 Growing, Packing, and Selling Grapes 5 The Two Brothers Take Over 12 II MIRASSOU VINEYARDS, 1937-1966 15 Going Into the Bulk Wine Business 15 Pioneering Plantings in Monterey County 19 Adding Land in Santa Clara County 25 III EXPANSION, 1966 TO THE PRESENT 30 Mechanizing Harvesting 30 Field Crushing and Pressing 35 From Bulk to Bottling 41 The Mirassou Sales Company and San Vicente Vineyards 46 The Mirassou Nursery 51 Urbanization in the Santa Clara Valley 55 INTERVIEW WITH EDMUND A. MIRASSOU I "GETTING STARTED OVER AGAIN," 1936-1941 58 Prohibition and Repeal 58 The Brothers Divide Responsibilities 65 The Bulk Wine Business 68 II EXPANSION, 1941-1966 70 Land Purchases 70 Wine Pioneers in Monterey County 73 Mechanical Harvesting and Field Crushing 79 Bottling the Mirassou Wines 80 The Fifth Generation Takes Charge 84 Ill GROWTH OF THE CALIFORNIA WINE ORGANIZATIONS The Wine Advisory Board 92 Creation, 1938 97 Early Work Trade Barriers Public Education Staff Members Activities, 1951-1970s Dissent and Discontinuation, 1975 12 The Winegrowers of California and The California Association of Winegrape Growers The Wine Institute IV EDMUND MIRASSOU'S OTHER BOARD ACTIVITIES 132 TAPE GUIDE 136 APPENDIX A - "Mirassou Vineyards First in Vineyard Crushing," speech by E.