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1 The Best of the Atlantic Provinces

Planning a trip to Atlantic Canada can present a bewildering array of choices. I’ve searched , New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and New- foundland and Labrador for the best places and experiences. Here are some of my personal and opinionated top choices.

1 The Best Active Vacations • Sea Kayaking Nova Scotia: The the hills east of the park, or rap- twisting, convoluted coastline of pelling and rock climbing at Cape this province is custom-made for Enrage. See “Fundy National snooping around by sea kayak. Park,” in chapter 4. Outfitters are scattered all around • Bicycling Prince Edward Island: the peninsula. For expedition This island province sometimes kayaking, contact Coastal Adven- seems like it was created specifi- tures, which leads trips throughout cally for bike touring. Villages are Nova Scotia and beyond. For more reasonably spaced, the hills virtu- easygoing exploration, try Mahone ally nonexistent, coastal roads Bay Kayak Adventures southwest picturesque in the extreme, and a of Halifax. See chapter 3. new island-wide bike path offers • Biking the Cabot Trail (Nova detours through marshes and Scotia): This long and strenuous quiet woodlands. See “The Great loop around Cape Breton High- Outdoors,” in chapter 5. lands National Park is tough on • Hiking Gros Morne National the legs, but you’ll come away Park (Newfoundland): Atlantic with a head full of indelible mem- Canada’s best hiking is found in ories. See “,” in these rugged hills. You can hike chapter 3. amazing coastal trails, marvel at • Exploring Fundy National Park scenic waterfalls, and stroll along- & Vicinity (New Brunswick): side landlocked fjords at this You’ll find swimming, hiking, and exceptional park. See “The Great kayaking at this lovely national Outdoors,” in chapter 6. park. And don’t overlook biking in

2 The Best Spots for Observing Nature • Digby Neck (Nova Scotia): peninsula is half the fun—it Choose from a dozen whale-watch requires two ferries. See “Digby to outfitters located along this nar- Yarmouth,” in chapter 3. row peninsula of remote fishing • National villages. Getting to the tip of the Park (Nova Scotia): The craggy 6598-2 Ch01.F 4/17/02 8:42 AM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES

geology of the west coast is impres- • Hopewell Rocks (New Bruns- sive, but don’t let that overshadow wick): The force of Fundy’s the rest of the park, where you’ll tremendous tides is the most find bogs and moose in abun- impressive at Hopewell Rocks, dance. See “Cape Breton High- where great rock “sculptures” cre- lands National Park,” in chapter 3. ated by the winds and tides rise • Grand Manan Island (New from the ocean floor at high tide. Brunswick): This big, geologically See “Fundy National Park,” in intriguing rock off the New chapter 4. Brunswick coast in the western • Avalon Peninsula (Newfound- Bay of Fundy is a great base for land): In one busy day you can learning about coastal ecology. view a herd of caribou, the largest Whale tour operators search out puffin colony in North America, the endangered right whale, and and an extraordinary gannet dozens of birds roost and pass colony visible from the mainland through. Boat tours from the cliffs. See “The Southern Avalon island will also take you out to Peninsula,” in chapter 6. see puffins. See “Grand Manan Island,” in chapter 4.

3 The Best Scenic Drives • Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail (Nova are out, clamber down to one of Scotia): This 175-mile (280km) the stretches of sand nestled loop through the uplands of Cape between the rocks. See p. 164. Breton Highlands National Park is • Prince Edward Island National one of the world’s great excur- Park: Much of the north-central sions. You’ll see Acadian fishing shore of PEI is part of the national ports, pristine valleys, and some of park, and a quiet park road tracks the most picturesque coastline along the henna-tinted cliffs and anywhere. See “Cape Breton grass-covered dunes. There’s no Island,” in chapter 3. single road, but several shorter • Along Cobequid Bay (Nova Sco- segments; all are worth a leisurely tia): When it comes to scenery, drive, with frequent stops to Cobequid Bay (near Truro) is one explore the beaches and walkways. of the region’s better-kept secrets. See “Prince Edward Island The bay is flanked by two roads: National Park,” in chapter 5. Route 2 runs from Parrsboro to • Viking Trail (Newfoundland): Truro; Route 215 from South Travelers looking to leave the Maitland to Brooklyn. Take the crowds behind needn’t look any time to savor it. See “Minas Basin further. This beautiful drive to & Cobequid Bay,” in chapter 3. Newfoundland’s northern tip is • Fundy Trail Parkway (New wild and solitary, with views of Brunswick): East of Saint John, bizarre geology and a wind-raked you’ll find this 7-mile (11km) coast. And you’ll end up at one of parkway winding along the con- the world’s great historic sites— tours of the coast. Get out and L’Anse aux Meadows. See “The stretch your legs at any of the 22 Great Northern Peninsula,” in lookouts along the way for fantas- chapter 6. tic cliff-side views. Or if the tides 6598-2 Ch01.F 4/17/02 8:42 AM Page 5

THE BEST FAMILY ACTIVITIES 5

4 The Best Hikes & Rambles • Point Pleasant Park (Nova Sco- together. But you can already tia): Overlooking the entrance to explore 140 miles (225km) along Halifax’s harbor, Point Pleasant the old rail line that once stitched Park is a wonderful urban oasis, the province together. It’s best for with wide trails for strolling along long-distance biking but superb the water. You can also crest a for a quiet stroll. See “Kings wooded rise and visit a stout County,” in chapter 5. Martello Tower. See p. 90. • Green Gardens Trail (Gros • Cape Breton Highlands National Morne, Newfoundland): This Park (Nova Scotia): You’ll find bog demanding hike at Gros Morne and woodland walks aplenty at National Park takes hikers on a 1 Cape Breton, but the best trails fol- 9 ⁄2-mile (16km) loop, much of low rugged cliffs along the open which follows coastal meadows ocean. The Skyline Trail is among atop fractured cliffs. Demanding, the most dramatic pathways in the but worth every step of the way. province. See “Cape Breton High- See “Gros Morne National Park,” lands National Park,” in chapter 3. in chapter 6. • Grand Manan Island (New • North Head Trail (St. John’s, Brunswick): Grand Manan is Newfoundland): You can walk laced with informal walking trails, from downtown St. John’s along through forest and along the the harbor, pass through the pic- ocean’s edge. This is a place for turesque Battery neighborhood, exploring; ask around locally for and then climb the open bluffs suggestions on the best hikes. See overlooking the Narrows with “Grand Manan Island,” in chap- views out to the open ocean ter 4. beyond. And where else can you • The Confederation Trail (Prince hike from downtown shopping to Edward Island): This 215-mile cliff-side whale-watching? See (350km) pathway across the “St. John’s,” in chapter 6. island is still being pieced

5 The Best Family Activities • Fossil and Mineral Prospecting delight younger kids. Highlights (Nova Scotia): On the Bay of include a flume ride (originally Fundy, Parrsboro is a fossil- and built for Expo ’86 in Vancouver) mineral-collector’s mecca. You and a wooden roller coaster that needn’t be an expert—a fine, twists and winds through trees left accessible museum and helpful standing during the coaster’s con- local guides will get you started. struction. See “Annapolis Royal,” The terrain and scenery are the in chapter 3. real draw; any finds are icing on • Waterfront Walk (Nova Scotia): the cake. See “Minas Basin & Halifax’s waterfront walk is filled Cobequid Bay,” in chapter 3. with wonderful distractions, from • Upper Clements Park (Nova the province’s finest museum to Scotia): About 5 minutes south of ships for exploring. Look also for Annapolis Royal, this wonderfully buskers, delightful junk food, and old-fashioned amusement park is sweeping views of the bustling full of low-key amusements and harbor. If you’re here in early attractions that will especially 6598-2 Ch01.F 4/17/02 8:42 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES

August for the Busker Festival, it’s splashing around these tepid all your kids will talk about for waters while admiring pastoral years. See “Halifax,” in chapter 3. island landscapes. See “The Great • Kings Landing (New Bruns- Outdoors,” in chapter 5. wick). History comes alive at this • Terra Nova National Park (New- living history museum, where foundland): This is the less noted young kids are fascinated by life in of Newfoundland’s two national early Canada between 1790 and parks, but the staff has gone the 1910. Ask about the weeklong extra mile to make it kid friendly. sessions designed to immerse kids There’s a marine interpretive cen- in the past. See p. 169. ter with activities for kids, boat • Prince Edward Island’s Beaches: tours, hikes just the right length The red-sand beaches will turn for shorter legs, and campground white swim trunks a bit pinkish, activities at night. See “Terra Nova but it’s hard to beat a day or three National Park,” in chapter 6.

6 The Best Places for History • Annapolis Royal (Nova Scotia): learn all about the exodus and set- The cradle of Canadian civiliza- tlement of the Acadians from cos- tion is found in this broad green tumed guides, who are also adept valley, where early French settlers at skills ranging from letterpress first put down roots. Visit Fort printing to blacksmithing. See Anne and Port Royal, and walk p. 188. some of the first streets on the • Province House National His- continent. See “Annapolis Royal,” toric Site (Prince Edward Island): in chapter 3. Canadian history took shape in • Maritime Museum of the Charlottetown in 1864, when the Atlantic (Nova Scotia): Nova Sco- idea of joining Britain’s North tia’s history is the history of the American colonies into an inde- sea, and no place better depicts pendent confederation was first that vibrant tradition than this discussed. Learn about what tran- sprawling museum on Halifax’s spired at this imposing Charlotte- waterfront. See p. 86. town edifice, which has been • Louisbourg (Nova Scotia): This restored to appear as it did when early-18th-century fort and village history was made. See p. 214. was part of an elaborate French • Bonavista Peninsula (New- effort to establish a foothold in the foundland): Newfoundland might New World. It failed, and the vil- seem like the edge of the earth lage ultimately fell to ruin. In the today, but in past centuries it was 1960s, the Canadian government the crossroads of European culture reconstructed much of it, and now as nations scrapped over fishing it’s one of the most impressive his- rights and settlements. You can toric sites in the nation. See “Cape learn a lot about how the old Breton Island,” in chapter 3. world viewed the new during a • Village Historique Acadien few days exploring this intriguing (New Brunswick): Around 45 peninsula. Base yourself in the buildings—with the number perfectly preserved village of Trin- growing—depict life as it was ity, and spend at least a day lived in an Acadian settlement exploring up to the town of between 1770 and 1890. You’ll Bonavista, where you can visit the 6598-2 Ch01.F 4/17/02 8:42 AM Page 7

THE BEST INNS 7

Ryan’s Premises National Historic been a millennium since the Site and learn why cod was god. Vikings first landed here and See “The Bonavista Peninsula,” in established an encampment. View chapter 6. the intriguing ruins, enter the re- • L’Anse aux Meadows National created sod huts, and hear theories Historic Site (Newfoundland): about why the colony failed from This dramatic site on Newfound- knowledgeable interpreters. See land’s northern tip celebrated its p. 253. 1,000th anniversary in 2000—it’s

7 The Most Picturesque Villages • Lunenburg (Nova Scotia): Settled New World, when English mer- by German, Swiss, and French chants controlled the flow of colonists, this tidy town not only goods in and out of the New has a superb location on a hill World. This compact village has flanked by two harbors, but boasts also been among the most aggres- some of the most unique and qui- sive in preserving its past, and the etly extravagant architecture in the architecture and perfect scale of Maritimes. See “South Shore,” in the village is unmatched in chapter 3. Atlantic Canada. See “The Bona- • Victoria (Prince Edward Island): vista Peninsula,” in chapter 6. This wee village west of Charlotte- • Twillingate (Newfoundland): town is surrounded by fields of This end-of-the-world village on grain and potatoes, and hasn’t Newfoundland’s north-central changed much in the last 100 shore is located on and around the years. Try to time your visit to take convoluted harbors and inlets. At in an evening show at the town’s the mouth of the harbor, high wonderfully old-fashioned theater. headlands mark the way for See “Prince County,” in chapter 5. incoming ships; walk out here and • Trinity (Newfoundland): Three scan the watery horizon for whales centuries ago, Trinity was among and icebergs. See “Central New- the most important ports in the foundland,” in chapter 6.

8 The Best Inns • Haddon Hall (Chester, Nova Sco- historic and very up-to-date. The tia; & 902/275-3577): Perched smallest guest rooms are more spa- atop an open hill with panoramic cious than larger rooms at many views of island-studded Mahone other inns. See p. 129. Bay, Haddon Hall’s main building • Kingsbrae Arms (St. Andrews, dates from 1905. You’ll find three New Brunswick; & 877/529- rooms in the main house and six 1897 or 506/529-1897): This others in cottages scattered around five-star inn manages the trick of the estate. Enjoy dinner on the being opulent and comfortable at open porch overlooking the bay. the same time. This shingled See p. 81. manse is lavishly appointed, beau- • Gowrie House (Sydney Mines, tifully landscaped, and well situ- Nova Scotia; & 800/372-1115 or ated for exploring charming St. 902/544-1050): The exquisitely Andrews. See p. 149. decorated Gowrie House is at once • Inns on Great George (Charlotte- resplendent and comfortable, town, PEI; & 800/361-1118 or 6598-2 Ch01.F 4/17/02 8:42 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES

902/892-0606): This connected • Inn at Bay Fortune (Bay Fortune, series of restored townhouses is PEI; & 902/687-3745, or 860/ historic, central, welcoming, and 296-1348 off-season): This excep- quite comfortable. Continental tionally attractive shingled com- breakfast is served in the open- pound was most recently owned concept lobby, where you can by actress Colleen Dewhurst, and watch the comings and goings current innkeeper David Wilmer without getting in the way; rooms pulled out all the stops for his ren- range from spacious doubles to ovations. But the real draw here is huge, family-sized suites, and most the dining room, which is noted all of them have either a fire- for the farm-fresh ingredients place, a whirlpool bath, or both. grown in the extensive gardens on See p. 216. the property. See p. 226.

9 The Best Bed & Breakfasts • Duffus House Inn (, • Tickle Inn at Cape Onion (Cape Nova Scotia; & 902/295-2172): Onion, Newfoundland; & 709/ A visit to the Duffus House is like 452-4321 June–Sept, or 709/ a visit to the grandmother’s house 739-5503 Oct–May): Tickle Inn everyone wished they had. The serves a family style dinner each inn’s two adjacent buildings (con- night so technically, it isn’t a B&B structed in 1820 and 1885) over- at all, but this tiny and remote look Baddeck’s channel and are home has the cordial bonhomie of cozy and tastefully furnished with a well-run bed-and-breakfast. Set a well-chosen mix of antiques. See on a distant cove at the end of a p. 124. road near Newfoundland’s north- • The Manse (Mahone Bay, Nova ernmost point (you can see Scotia; & 902/624-1121): Labrador across the straits), the There’s not a bad room in this Tickle Inn offers a perfect base for four–guest room establishment, visiting L’Anse aux Meadows and built in 1870 and situated on a walking on the lonesome, windy low hill in the picturesque village hills. See p. 255. of Mahone Bay. Spend the day • At Wit’s Inn (St. John’s, New- browsing local shops, and retreat foundland; & 877/739-7420 or in the evening to the casual luxury 709/739-7420): This centrally of this top-rate lodge. See p. 78. located B&B is bright, cheerful, • Shipwright Inn (Charlottetown, and whimsical. Opened in 1999 PEI; & 902/368-1905): This in- by a restaurateur from Toronto, town, seven-room B&B is within the inn has managed to preserve easy walking distance of all the the best of the historical elements city’s attractions yet has a settled in this century-old home while and pastoral feel. It’s informed by graciously updating it for modern a Victorian sensibility without tastes. See p. 284. being over-the-top about it. See p. 216.

10 The Best Local Dining • Digby Scallops (Nova Scotia): Fundy coast, hauls back some of The productive scallop fleet based the choicest, most succulent scal- in Digby, on Nova Scotia’s Bay of lops in the world. Sample the fare 6598-2 Ch01.F 4/17/02 8:42 AM Page 9

THE BEST LOCAL DINING 9

at local restaurants, or cook up a locally brewed beer close at hand. batch on your own. Simple is bet- See chapters 3 and 4. ter: a light sauté in butter brings • Prince Edward Island Mussels: out their rich flavor. See “Digby to PEI has long been known for its Yarmouth,” in chapter 3. wonderful potatoes, but the • Rappie Pie (Nova Scotia): When farmed mussels do more to thrill traveling between Digby and the taste buds. You’ll see the lines Yarmouth, watch for shops selling of mussel buoys in inlets and har- rappie pie—a local Acadian treat bors. Order up a mess at an island made from potatoes plus meat or restaurant to share with your seafood. See “Digby to Yarmouth,” whole table. See chapter 5. in chapter 3. • Newfoundland Berries: The • Fresh Lobster (Nova Scotia and unforgivingly rocky and boggy soil New Brunswick): Wherever you of this blustery island resists most see the wooden lobster traps piled crops, but produces some of the on a wharf, you’ll know a fresh most delicious berries you can lobster meal isn’t far away. Among imagine. Look for roadside stands the most productive lobster fish- in midsummer, or pick your own eries are around Shediac, New blueberries, strawberries, partridge- Brunswick, and all along Nova berries, or bakeapples. Many Scotia’s Atlantic coast. Sunny days restaurants add berries (on cheese- are ideal for cracking open a crus- cake, in custard) when they’re in tacean while sitting at a wharf-side season. See chapter 6. picnic table, preferably with a