TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM WEAVERS OF BALARAMAPURAM: PROBLEMS AND CHALLENGES

MA SOCIOLOGY

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

LIST OF TABLES

ABSTRACT

CHAPTERS TITLE PAGE NUMBER

I INTRODUCTION 1-12

II LITERATURE REVIEW 13-29

III METHODOLOGY 30-32

IV ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION 33-44

V FINDINGS, CONCLUSION AND 45-51 SUGGESTIONS

BIBLIOGRAPHY 52-56

APPENDIX-I 57-60

INTERVIEW SCHEDULE

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LIST OF TABLES

FIGURE PAGE TITLE OF THE TABLE NO: NUMBER

4.1 Age group of the respondents 34

4.2 Gender 34

4.3 Education of the Weavers 35

4.4 Source of Income of Weavers 35

4.5 Level of income of Weavers 36

4.6 Lives in 36

4.7 Accessibility of bonus 37

4.8 Wages 37

4.9 Parallel job 37

4.10 Health problems 38

4.11 Bases of income 38

4.12 Number of weavers who weave designer saree 39

4.13 Difficulties 39

4.14 Availability of extra wages 39

4.15 Awareness of marketing trends 40

4.16 Problems due to lack of technological upgradation 40

4.17 Courses 41

4.18 Techniques to improve the demand 41

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4.19 Measures taken by the government 42

4.20 Demand of product 42

4.21 Government initiative for install machines 43

4.22 Measurement of profit 43

4.23 Is the powerloom require any skill 44

4.24 Why still follow the traditional mode of weaving 44

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ABSTRACT

The present study is titled as Traditional handloom weavers of Balaramapuram: Problems and Challenges. The study focuses on the various socio economic challenges faced by the traditional handloom weavers of kottukalkkonam handloom industry at Balaramapuram panchayat. The study was quantitative in nature and collected data using interview schedule.

Handloom sector is a major traditional industry. But now it is in the edge of its extinction mainly due to the invasion of power loom. The problem faced by the handloom industry affect the life of weavers. As a part of it the traditional Weavers also faces problems and challenges. They faced various socio-economic and physical problems and challenges. The Weavers get wages and bonus on time but it is not sufficient to maintain the economic balance. So they seek other jobs parallel to it. Majority of the members are women in this study who are engaged in weaving. And the male members in the family do not only involve in weaving they also goes to other jobs which have more income. So, this study reveals that majority of the family are not only depending on the handloom. But a small proportion of people still completely depending on handloom.

The handloom industry is now on the edge of its decline. But in market the handloom product still have highest demand. Due to the lack of sufficient income the Weavers and the youngsters are hesitant to join this industry thus so many handloom units were closed so, there is no sufficient production processing even if the demand is high.

Another challenge faced by this industry is that the invasion of power loom products in the name of balaramapuram kaithari. In this case the customers are not able to identify the real handloom product. The sellers also encourage to the power loom product. So it is the main problem affecting the Industry.

The handloom product has high quality than the power loom. It is what the factor which attract the people to the handloom product. But the customers do not have the ability to identify what is handloom and what is power loom. It only can be identified by the weavers . It is the major challenge what the industry faces in modern times.

From the present study it is concluded that Handloom weavers in Balaramapuram are mostly traditional weavers and they are in a pitiable condition, owing to poor socio-economic condition. However various unfavourable factors lead to decline on the aspect of socio-economic conditions. Majority of them are wage weavers working for more than 8 hours. v | P a g e

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

Indian Handloom Industry is an ancient cottage industry of India with a decentralized set up. This industry is a source of livelihood for millions of people and contributes a major part towards employment. The tradition of making handicrafts and weaving by hand constitutes one of the richest and vibrant aspects of the Indian cultural heritage. This sector is one of the largest unorganized sector after agriculture having being an advantages of less capital intensive, minimal use of power, eco-friendly, adaptability to market requirements etc. But at the same time, this industry is facing multifarious problems that some other industries did not face. The government of India also acting toward the development and improvement of its productivity and marketing, still weavers are facing livelihood crisis. So that it is the need of the today to identify the problems as well as the strengths and weaknesses of handloom industry to make it profitable (Jain, 2017)

What is Handloom?

Handloom refers to wooden frames of different types which are used by skilled artisans to weave fabrics usually from natural fibers like Cotton, Silk, Wool, Jute etc. It is a cottage industry where the entire family is involved in the production of cloth. Right from spinning the yarn, coloring, to weaving on the loom is done by them. Fabric produced from these looms is also referred to as Handloom.

Tools required for this entire process are made from wood, sometimes bamboo and they do not require any electricity to run them. The entire process of fabric production was totally manual in earlier times. Thus this is the most eco-friendly way of producing clothes (Kohli 2019).

History of Handloom – Early Days

Indian Handloom dates back to the Indus valley civilization. Even in ancient times, Indian fabrics were exported to Rome, Egypt and China.

In earlier times, almost every village had its own weavers who made all the clothing requirements needed by the villagers like sarees, dhotis, etc. Some areas where it is cold in

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winter there were specific wool weaving centers. But everything was Hand-Spun and Hand- Woven.

Traditionally, the entire process of cloth making was self-reliant. The cotton / silk / wool came from the farmers, foresters or shepherds, and the cotton was cleaned and transformed by weavers themselves or agricultural labour community. Small handy instruments were used in the process, including the famous spinning wheel (also known as Charkha), mostly by women. This hand spun yarn was later made into cloth on the handloom by the weavers. http://www.chinmayaupahar.in/blog/handloom/.

Decline of Handloom

During British rule, India was turned into an exporter of raw cotton and the country was flooded with machine made imported yarn. To increase consumption of this yarn, British authorities resorted to violence and coercion. Summarily, this resulted in a complete loss of livelihoods first for the spinners, and dependence of handloom weavers on machine yarn.

When yarn came from a distance and had to be bought, yarn dealers and financiers became necessary. And as the average weaver had little credit, the industry fell more and more into the grip of middlemen. Thus the independence of most weavers disappeared, and a great majority of them came to work for a trader on contract/ wage basis.

Despite this Indian handloom sustained itself, until World War 1 when imported machine made clothes flooded the Indian Market. The beginning of Power looms in the 1920’s, and the consolidation of the mills and the high cost of yarn, made an unfair competition that led to the decline of Handloom.

Revival of Handloom

Mahatama Gandhi started the Swadeshi Movement and reintroduced hand spinning in the name of Khadi which essentially means hand spun and hand woven. Every Indian was urged to spin the yarn using Charkhas and wear Khadi. This led to the closure of the Mills in Manchester and huge turning point in the Indian independence movement. People burnt imported clothes and chose to wear Khadi.

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Handloom – Post Independence

Post Independence, textile mills and spinning mills continued to function in India. Today, there are many weaving styles that use machine spun yarn and these fabrics are referred to as Handloom. And fabrics made from Handspun yarn are called Khadi fabrics.

Though the textile and spinning mills continued in Independent India, handloom / khadi were given a lot of protection from unfair competition. Thus the fabric was widely used and affordable for everyone.

Current Scenario

Since 1985, and especially post 90’s liberalisation, handloom sector had to face competition from cheap imports, and design imitations from power looms.

In addition government funding and policy protection also declined drastically. Also the cost of natural fiber yarn has increased tremendously. In comparison to artificial fiber, the cost of natural fabric has gone up. This makes it unaffordable for the common people. But the wages of handloom weavers have remained frozen for the past decade or two.

Unable to compete with cheaper poly-mixed fabrics, many weavers are quitting weaving and going for unskilled labour work. And many have been reduced to extreme poverty.

Traditional wear in India has lost its significance slowly with the advent of low cost and eye catchy synthetic materials. However, with the notion of ‘Make in India’ campaign and the planning commission giving it a due place in the economic sector under other priority sectors is regaining its unique identity. USA, UK, Germany and France are among the top ten countries to where the Indian handloom products exported. The Indian government launched Handloom brand to ensure its uniqueness, flexibility of production, openness to innovations, adaptability. The number of handloom weaver households decreased in the third handloom census compared to that of second. So as to support weavers the Indian government launched schemes and initiated exhibitions, crafts museum, trade facilitation centre and E-commerce. Market research on the Handlooms identified the need for publicity, availability, Handloom designer dresses and awareness campaigns on a large scale for its sustenance.

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The handloom sector has a unique place in our economy. It has been sustained by transferring skills from one generation to another. The strength of the sector lies in its uniqueness, flexibility of production, openness to innovations, adaptability to the supplier‘s requirement and the wealth of its tradition (Upahar 2018).

The Government of India, since independence, has been following a policy of promoting and encouraging the handloom sector through a number of programmes and schemes. Due to various policy initiatives and scheme interventions like cluster approach, aggressive marketing initiative and social welfare measures, the handloom sector has shown positive growth and the income level of weavers has improved. The handloom fabric production has been very impressive and growth has been at the rate of 6% to 7% in the beginning of the 11th Plan. The subsequent economic downturn has affected all the sectors in India and handloom sector was no exception. Indian handlooms are characterized by an infinite variety of weaves, textures and designs spun on the handloom, ranging from the finest muslins to heavy bedspreads, from delicate pastels to earthy hues, and from appealingly simple to amazingly every need, from exquisite fabrics, which take months to weave, to popular items of mass production for daily use. Handloom, being a State subject, its development is primarily the responsibility of the State Governments. However, the Government of India has been supplementing the efforts of the States with its policy of promoting and encouraging the sector through suitable interventions.

HANDLOOM IN KERALA

Kerala's handloom products are well known for their intricate designs, exquisite craftsmanship, vibrant colours and delicate texture. For centuries, a majority of the product has been made families of weavers, each with a unique story on how they were introduced to this special trade. Each such centre of weaving has its own signature characteristics and the state has three major weaving centres.

Kuthampully in Thrissur, famous for its kasavu double dhoti, veshti and set mundu. Balaramapuram in Thiruvananthapuram traces its past to about 300 years ago, weavers from Tamil Nadu settled here to produce fabrics for the members of the royal family of Travancore and the dexterity of the Chendamangalam in Ernakulam weavers is renowned across the world.

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Each of these places, along with Kasaragod and Kannur saris, form the vanguard of the handloom revolution in Kerala.

Kerala handloom industry carries a vital role in states economy as well as in the field of employment. A very large number of looms are located in rural areas. The rhythm of handloom can be heard in almost every village in Kerala. There are men and women weavers for whom weaving is a way of life. In early days majority of handloom weavers followed the hereditary line. The main communities engaged in weaving are saliyas and devangas. With the available information it is clear that the saliyas and devangas migrated from the nearby princely states.

Earlier they were producing cloth for their own consumption and for the need of their village. Increase in production and improvement in transport facilities removed the hindrance of time and eased the exchange of commodities. The skill of weaving has been passed from parents to children (Vargheese &Salim 2015).

During 15th century British, French and Portuguese people visited kerala. They were attracted by the things like spices, ivory and beauty of handloom fabrics. They began to purchase large quantities and exported to their countries.

Earlier they were producing cloth for their own consumption and for the need of their village. Increase in production and improvement in transport facilities removed the hindrance of time and eased the exchange of commodities. The skill of weaving has been passed from parents to children.

During 15th century British, French and Portuguese people visited Kerala. They were attracted by the things like spices, ivory and beauty of handloom fabrics. They began to purchase large quantities and exported to their countries. Germany has established a mission called 'Basal mission' in 1829.This mission paved the way of changing from home production to factory system. Apart from this, French people started to give training in weaving. They imported versatile loom and introduced principle designs from the hooks.

After the British captured India they took up and nourished handloom industries for their purposes. At the end of the 18th century the monopoly came to an end. Since 19 th century with the advent of industrial revolution, the English people gave up all. They started mechanical

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production in their land. During this period of foreigners the weavers of Kerala learned all techniques and they paralleled the way for the production of furnishing fabrics according to new style of demand.

During the dawn of 20th century, the Sree Narayana movement influenced kerala society by and large prompting the caste based culture to change towards secular and modern industrious culture so that many people from traditional Thiyya/Ezhava community had taken up their employment in Handloom Industry to do away with the toddy tapping to respond with the advice of Sree Narayana Guru. This change also has its own mark in making the present shape of Kerala Handloom Industry. It has resulted in the production of various types of artistic handloom goods in Kerala.

Balaramapuram, in Thiruvanathapuram district is the most historically important place for handloom fabrics. The weavers belong to Saliyas were migrated from Nagar coil and Thirunalveli in Thamil Nadu during the time of Balarama Varma before 250 years. Here they produced super fine 'Mundum Neriyathu; for the need of royal family. Still they are in existence and carry important part of the total production. The technique of producing the superfine fabric spread from them to the local weavers in Balaramapuram and the surrounding places. Initially they were producing 'Mundu' for men with 0.4cm of width of 'kara' (cross border) with black garn. Before 100 years the jeri from Surat takes to Balaramapuram and 'Kasavu Sarees' production was started.

Koothampalli in Thrissur district is also well known for handloom fabric. Here Devangas immigrated from Karnataka are engaged in weaving. The 'Kasavu Sarees' which are being produced here is mostly with half fine jeri. The middle class people would like to purchase this sarees because of its cheapness. The price of a saree can be reduced from Rs.5000 to 1000 by using half fine jeri instead of pure jeri.

Chendamangalam, in the Ernakulam district is also an important handloom centre in Kerala. Here they have been producing the double dhoti and 'Mundu' and 'Neriyathu'.The distinction of these fabrics is in its structure in the plain structure, they have producing a special effect in weft direction.

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AREA WISE ANALYSIS OF HANDLOOM IN KERALA

Kerala has 14 districts from Thiruvanathapuram to Kasargod. The handloom industry is spreaded allover the state. But the handloom industry is concentrated in certain places. The southern Kerala is famous for its superfine products, like sarees, dhothies and 'Set mundu' etc. The middle Kerala also engaged with such products .But while going to northern side called Malabar the main production changed to coarser varieties like furnishing items bed spreads, towels etc. The common products in Kerala are 'Thorthu' (Bathing towel) and Lungies. Almost 2 lakhs of weavers are earning their livelihood from the handloom 75% of them are in the co-operative line. Almost 5 lakhs families are depending upon handloom industry.

A district wise analysis gives us a clear cut idea about the places where handlooms are concentrated and the places which are important for traditional varieties.

1. Thiruvananthapuram

The capital city has its own historical importance. And in the map of handloom also it has an important place. There are 349 societies and 44700 weavers are working with their looms. The main products of district are fine cotton textures, durries with special design Balaramapuram is very famous for its fine grey sarees with kasavu (Jari). The other products here are set-mundu 'Mundum Nereyathum'-(Traditional dress for a malayalu lady), Mundhu (dhothi for men), Earezha thorthu (bathing towel), Melmundu etc. Other places where handloom concentrations are Parassala the south most of kerala where the weavers are involved in weaving of sarees dhotis Cherayinkeezhu, Kulathur are the other place where handloom density places. Here also the productions are as explained above. The range of counts is 60s-120s.The jari used here is superfine one.

2. Kollam

The very old city has a few handloom production places. Here almost 80 co-operative societies with 10271 registered weavers with their looms. In this district almost all varieties produced in Kerala are produced in a small scale. In olden days the Kollam (Quilon) was an important port in South India. So the effect of exporting items are effected the weavers in kollam district Lungies, furnishing items, earezhathorthu, sarees, dhothies are the main products. Terry towels, Jacquard

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durries are also produced. Kollam, Karunagappally, Chathannur are the main places related to handloom in the district. The products from this place are mainly for domestic market. Therefore colours, fashions etc. of these products suit the domestic market.

3. Pathanamthitta

There are 7 co-op societies and 165 registered looms are here. With these 281 weavers are earning their livelihood. In this district the main products are lungies and dhothies.

4. Alappuzha (Alappey)

Alappuzha is very famous for its coir products. Coir weaving also done with hands only. But it is considered as another wing.

The main products in these centres are mainly dhotis, sarees, lungies, earezhathorthu etc. There are 25 co-op societies with looms and 2309 weavers in this district.

5. Kottayam

In kottayam district the main products are earezhathorthu, panimundu and lungies. They are also producing bed sheets and sarees. There are 16 societies with loom and 1853 weavers are here. Kidangoor, Karingannoor are major centres

6. Idukki

In this district there are 11 societies and 414 weavers with their looms. The main products are sarees, lungies etc.

7. Ernakulam

'Chennamangalam saree' is famous in kerala. This fine grey sarees are the product of Ernakulam district. The other main products are superfine double dhothies, synthetic and silk sarees, matching set etc. In Paravoor 120 s fine double dhothies are produced. Paravoor is situated in coastal Ernakulam only the above statal paravoor is situated.

In east Ernakulam ,earzha thorthu and cheaper variety bed sheets are produced. There are 30 societies and 8494 weavers with their looms.

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8. Thrissur

The cultural capital of kerala has an important role in the tradition of kerala. Here a traditional variety named 'Koothampally saree' is produced. koothampally is a place situated in Thrissur. The other productions are set mundu, woven with half fine jari. Dhothies, lungies are also produced in this district .There are 30 societies in Thrissur and 6052 weavers.

9. Palakkad

In this district its handloom weaving is very popular Chittur, Pudunagaram, Kollengode, Peruvemba,Karimpuzha are some of the handloom concentrated place situated in the district.Here the main products are sarees, dhotis, lungies etc. Here silk sarees production also started recently. There are 45 societies and 11236 weavers depending on the handloom weaves with their looms.

10. Malapuram

A number of Muslim weavers are here in this district. The main places are Tiroor, Tanoor etc. The main products are furnishing items which influenced from calicut and saree lungies. There are 13 societies and 2774 weavers.

11. Calicut or Kozhikode

The districts from Malapuram to Kazargod are known as Malabar. The famous "Malabar loom" came from this place only. The other famous of this place is ,in olden days famous "Calico cloth" came from calicut only.

In olden days foreigners established some companies. Some of them remaining now also. 'Common Wealth Trust' which is situated in Calicut is one such company.The main products are mainly meant for export. Furnishing , Jacquard products, Bedsheets, Table mats, Coarser varieties etc. The products are mainly coming from Malabar loom.The products from Kozhikode have an excellent value in domestic market also. The main centres are kozhikode, Quilandi, Vatakara, Chombal, Maniyur etc.There are 41 societies (Most of them are industrial societies) are here.

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12. Wyanad

There is not that much important in this high range. There are only 4 societies in this district and 136 weavers. The products will be a part of Calicut and Cannanore.

13. Cannanore or Kannur

Cannanore is called as 'the Manchester of Kerala'. The famous Cannanore sports shirting, varieties like Crepe is the donation of this district. The weavers are mainly working in industrial societies. For export of handloom products Kerala mainly depending upon the products from Cannanore. The main products are shirting, Made-ups, jackquard, Furnishing,Turkish towels, Sateen sheets Crepe such export oriented, and Lungies Earezha thorthu etc. for domestic purpose. The products are coarser varieties Cannanore Mundu is a popular variety. The main centres are Cannanore, Azhicode, Chirakkal, Kanhirode, Panoor, Kuthuparambu, Kalyassery. There are 73 societies established in this district and with about 50 exporters in private sector together have,13667 weavers working open that.

14. Kasargod

Kasargod is the north most district in Kerala. Here sarees are produced, and export varieties also produced here Kasargod, Mancheswaram are main centres.11 societies are here nad 3401 weavers working in these societies. Kasargod sarees are very famous in Kerala. Now-a-days there is a very good demand for the silk sarees woven with different colour pattern and ornamented with zaris. (http://keralahandloom.blogspot.com/2011/07/kerala-handloom- industry.html)

Handloom plays a vital role in the Indian economy. This industry helps in the creation of ample opportunities of employment especially for the labour class. It helps in earning considerable sum of foreign exchange to the country thus strengthening the national economy. The handloom industry has developed a lot over a period of time. It is spread throughout the country. Most of the handloom units are run either as sole-proprietors or else they work under master weavers (Bansal,Gaur, 2008). In respect of Kerala in particular, handloom industry carried a vital role in the state’s economy because of its vast employment generation potential. A very large number of looms were located even in rural parts of Kerala. The rhythm of handloom used to be heard in

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every village. There were both men and women weavers for whom weaving were a way of life. In early days majority of handloom weavers followed the hereditary line. The main communities engaged in weaving were Saliyas and Devangas. Today, in spite of its vast potential and hence growth prospects, many problems and challenges haunt this sector thus seriously affecting its sustainability, particularly in the Kerala context. The looms disappear one after the other, and there is constant decline in the number of handloom workers. This sector is now dominated by the co-operative sector which holds 94 percent of the looms. (http://www.i3s.net.in/uploads/pdf/Resources/Role_of_Handloom_Industry_in_India.pdf)

HISTORY OF BALARAMAPURAM KAITHARI

Handloom was introduced by the Maharaja Balarama Varama during his regime.. The Maharaja and his Delava (Chief Minister), Ummini Thampi jointly decided to convert Balaramapuram and its surrounding places into an agro-based industrial belt with various traditional industries by the development of paddy and coconut cultivation, fishing, weaving, and oil extraction. Separate streets with a clustered at identified places, providing a comparatively better infrastructure for development.

The Delava of Maharaja brought seven weaver families (Shaliars) from Tamil Nadu to produce fabrics for the members of the royal family and made them settle at Balaramapuram in a separate location now called "Shaliar Street". Market places were opened at convenient locations to make the marketing of products easier. The present residents of the street are the descendants of these seven families. Now they are almost 750 families. The place Balaramapuram itself was named after the King who started industries in this region.

Presently, a major portion of the hand loom clothes produced in this area is sold to the Handloom Development Corporation and Hantex. Due to the emergence of power looms in the weaving industry and drop in the prices of related items, the inhabitants of the colony have found it difficult to persevere in the same field of activity as a result of which, the younger generations are pursuing higher education and alternate employment to make ends meet.(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balaramapuram)

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STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM

The handloom industry is one of the oldest and the largest cottage industry in India, representing and preserving the vibrant Indian culture. The handloom industry is presently regarded as the largest economic activity in India after agriculture, generating direct as well as indirect employment for more than 3 million weavers household. Furthermore, the government has introduced the various schemes for holistic development of the sector.

However the rapidly increasing industrialization, globalization and advent of modern technology has brought with various challenges for the development of the handloom industry especially to the traditional weavers. The present study is an attempt to understand the problems and challenges faced by the traditional handloom weavers in the modernized textile industry. It also tries to shed light into the prospects if any they have in the present scenario.

SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY

Handloom sector is a major nonfarm industry in India. This sector gives major contribution to Indian economy. Any people who have an interest in weaving can enter into this field as weavers need not have any high qualification to enter in this job. Handloom sector provides employment opportunity to 65 lacs persons engaged in weaving and allied activities (dyeing, twisting, construction of work shed and acquisition of looms and accessories). So handloom is considered as a largest economic activity in textile sector. Government intervention of this sector is endless. A lot of welfare measures and schemes are introduced by government. If the significance of the handloom sector is such a discussing thing, then the question is why this industry is facing a lot of problems? This study aims to reveal the problems and challenges faced by the traditional handloom weavers in the modernised sector and thus significant. The study is relevant in the present context of our society as it may contribute to a new understanding from the point of view of handloom weavers. It may help in making effective policies and programs addressing the real need of hand loom weavers.

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CHAPTER 2

LITERATURE REVIEW

Venkataraman (1936) discussed the production and marketing structure of handloom industry in south India. He explained the nature of the relations between production and marketing. The study opined that the systems of production determine the method of distribution. The production was more organized in handloom factories. Marketing was done through agencies like commission agents, mail order houses and so on.

Nanekar (1968) analyzed that by increasing the production of handloom industry substantially nothing tangible can be gained by solving other problems. The long term and important components in earning depends on the productivity of labour a problem ultimately associated with the technique of production.

Aurlanadam, (1979) analyzed 'A Study of Handloom Industiy in Tamil Nadu', highlighted the problems of weavers' co-operatives in major weaving centers as shortage of quality inputs, technological stagnation and inadequate marketing techniques.

Jain (1985) mentioned that protection of handlooms against unequal competition from mills and powerlooms has been the main consideration of our textile policy. He found that not a single handloom weaver was aware of the product reservation scheme of textile policy. high powered study team (1974) enquired into all phases of the handloom industry such as organizational, technical and functional aspects. It opined that many of the problems of the handloom industry would be the need for more substantial help become obvious. solved by increasing co-operation of industry.

Srinivasa Rao Kasisomayajula(2012) presented a paper basing on field work Socio-economic analysis of handloom industry in Andhra Pradesh A Study on selected districts. He was studied in the socio economic analysis of handloom industry in Andhra Pradesh a study on Selected district(East Godavari, Prakasam, Kurnool , Nalgonda ).

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Sudhanshu K K Mishra, Rakesh Srivastava and K I Shariff - Institute of Rural Development, Lucknow(2016): in this study they try to address the situations of the weavers and the weaving industry in The globally competitive world.

Sreenivas (2017) This is the study about the problems faced by the handloom weavers in Thelengana state. This study was conducted at kariminagar district. Through this study he try to reveal the problems and present situation of handloom weavers. And make an attempt to provide suitable policies for the betterment of the weavers.

Durai (2005) studied the functional problems of the Handloom Industry in Erode District with Special Reference to Handloom Weavers Co-operative Societies in Tamil Nadu. It was found from the study that the handloom Societies considered “Increasing yarn price” as the major production related problem and “competition from powerlooms and mills” as a major marketing related problem”.

Rari John and S.Kamini (2016) had conducted a study of about the socio economic status of women entrepreneurs in handloom sector. This study shows that not only the traditional handloom Weavers is active in this field but the entire caste also involving to the production of handloom products. But now the handloom Industry is on the edge of its destruction due to the modernization of the field.

Shamitha. KV, Dr.P Balasubrahmanian (2018) They pointed out that modernization, advent of modern techniques, adverse effect of government policies, lack of efficiency on the implementation of policies make the handloom Industry as decline.

Mathiraj and Rajkumar (2008) made an analytical study on production and marketing of handloom products. The study narrated the production related problems of the Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Societies and reviewed the marketing process carried out by the Weavers' Co-operative Societies. The study suggested that the modernization of industries can be made with a moderate cost to ease down the problems of weavers. Narsaiah and Krishna (1999) studied the crisis in Handloom Industry. It was identified in the study that Handloom Industry has been facing the problem of improper financial facilities, irregular supply of yarn. As a result of this, the weavers' societies and corporations are not functioning well.

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Thayumanavar,T Shanmugapriya (2017) The handloom industry is the most challenging one in India. Particularly in Kongu region we can find more number of weavers is male between the age group of 31-35 years. Very Few incomes are earned by the weavers. Handloom sarees are popular in India. There is no promotional for selling the product other than personal selling. Demand of the product is more only during festival time. Discount sales attract the customers. The market is highly competitive. The procurement of raw material is a challenging one and most of the weavers procure raw material from Co-operative society. In Present days educated peoples are moving to other sectors. So the handloom sectors are in depression stage.

Ajitha.M.(2019) carried out a detailed study about the problems of handloom Weavers in Tamil Nadu. The number of employees in the handloom industry decreased as compared to the previous year now-a-days. Also the important economic problem is the payment of incentives to the weavers. The government must provide necessary amenities to the weavers So that they will lead a happy satisfied life. To help the handloom weavers exports the products produced by the weavers through agents. Publicity and exhibition of handloom products increase the sales. Proper training to the weavers in latest techniques leads to create more varieties of handloom products.

She says that The handloom industry plays an important role in the development of the socio- economic conditions of women in the study area through this study she reveal the various schemes for handloom industries and to analyse the problems faced by women handloom weavers in Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu district.

Senthil Kumar (2014) His study carries out in Erod district at Tamil Nadu. In this study he try to analyse the present situation of the handloom Weavers co-operative society. The study is an effort to analyse the profile and organizational problems of Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Societies in the selected handloom focal centres in Erode District. . The study found that majority of the handloom societies are considering 'lack of modernized loom equipments' and 'Obsolete production techniques' as their major organizational problem.

Aarti Malik, Dr Ajmer Singh (2015) they carried out a study in panipat. They made a detailed description of the handloom Industry in panipat The handloom industry has developed substantially over a period of time. It is spread in all over the country. To maximize sale volume it is very important to be a aware of certain modern techniques of marketing such as brand

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promotion, packaging, advertising, survey and demand forecasts. It is very much essential to have knowledge of certain competitive strategies which must be followed and implemented to increase export and which provides satisfaction to the customers. Various Schemes as well as strategies are adopted for sustainable development of handloom industry. Handloom Sector plays a very significant role in country’s economy. It is one of the largest economic activities providing direct employment to over 80 Lacs persons engaged in weaving and other related activities. Assistance of financial nature and implementation of various development schemes helped the Handloom Market for growth and development. In this paper the try to explore the role of handloom industry in the economy and schemes provided by the Government as well as various competitive strategies have been discussed.

Premsundar, J.Kannan(2013) This study based on the problems related to women in handloom sector. they says that handloom industries one of the sector which has largest number of women participation.It is one of the largest economic activities, after agriculture, providing direct and indirect employment as well as being predominately a non-farm activity. It has passed on from generations to generations. In the wake of industrialization, our country’s own Powerloom and Khadi movement totally deteriorated the overall status of handlooms and its weavers. Mainly it burdens the life of women, a major work force in the handloom sector, compared to men. this paper is to familiarize with the current status and livelihood problems of unorganized women handloom workers and also to propose the importance of social protection and security.

Alpana (2015) wrote an article based on the handloom Industry in Uttar Pradesh. Her major concerns were about the challenges and prospects of weaving industry. This industry is one of the oldest industries in India and provided livelihood to millions of rural people across the country for centuries. The government of India is consistently pursuing to bring about improvement in the productivity and marketing of handloom sector; still it can be seen that weavers are facing severe livelihood crisis. To make the industry profitable, the problems should be identified as well as the strength and weaknesses should be estimated.

Anjana Attri (2017) gave an overview of the handloom Industries in Himachal Pradesh. Economic conditions of the craftsmen / weavers /artisans, who are passing this tradition from one generation to another is not satisfactory although various scheme have been implemented for their upliftment due to non-availability of raw material, insufficient quantity, poor quality and

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very high cost of raw material. The handloom weavers also have to compete with the shawls manufactured on power looms. Certain efforts have been made on the part of the Government to impart some technical knowledge about these looms to the weavers. As regards marketing, which is the most crucial problem, the craftsmen should be assisted in marketing their products directly from their looms to the market.

Sharma & Jena (2020) this article gives an introduction about the issues and prospects of handloom industry. According to them handloom is a primary employment provides after agriculture. But recently it has been losing its importance due to unable to retain a competitive edge against powerloom. the present study examines the problems and prospects of handloom sector of Himachal Pradesh which contributes significantly to the state economy and provides sustainable livelihood opportunities to natives of the state This study is concentrated in KULLU district of Himachal Pradesh, because in spite of decrease in handloom population in the state of Himachal Pradesh.

Islam et al (2013) have made an attempt to study the cost-benefit analysis of handloom industry in Bangladesh. The Handloom industry is the biggest and the most important cottage industry of Bangladesh. It plays an important role in the economy of Bangladesh and on the livelihood of the rural people. The study is an attempt to analyze the cost-benefit of handloom weavers operating in Kumarkhali Upazila of Kushtia district. The study is mainly based on primary data. The major findings of the study shows that handloom weaving activity is profitable and perloom profit for small scale and large scale units is higher than that for the medium scale units.

Sarkar (2016) in the study clearly brings to light the various health issues faced by weavers and there is also no distinction between male and female weavers in respect of the various health issues. Hence it calls for highlighting these problems to the government and industry bodies and makes their work places safer and secure through legislations and awareness programs. Further with the onslaught of modernization and automation and the unrenumerative tag facing the industry, our country is in the position of permanently losing a century’s old technique and skills.

Bhat (2013) carried out an analysis of handloom sector in Jammu and Kashmir through a case study in Budgam district the present paper an attempt has been made to analyse the growth and performance of handloom in Jammu And Kashmir State. This study try To find out the trend

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value of production, employment and sales of Handicraft sector.. This study reveals that there is very significant increase in production of handlooms during the study period. Also they found there is highly positive and strong correlation between production and employment.

Das (2018) handloom industry offers a massive amount of employment opportunities to the lakhs of people. recently it is facing a lot of problems and it has been pushed towards the decline stage of the product lifecycle. These problems are a Poor economic condition of the weavers, High cost of production, to get less opportunities of Assam market throughout the year, the poor performance of the co-operative sector. Competition from power looms and middleman (Mahajan) the additional threat but these can be countered when the sector produces high-value products which can be marketed locally or abroad those are different from power loom products. So to bring the industry back to growth stage the above mention problems has to be well addressed.

According to Kumar (2018) Handloom weaving constitutes an integral and inseparable part of the life to handloom weavers. It is vital role of the rural economy. It may be recalled here that handloom products not only remained in India, but found to other countries also. This industry has survived due to the skill of the weavers. To some extent, weavers life style, low standard of living proved to be a blessing in-disguise to cope with the stressed environment. The weavers spend major part of the days time of hard physical work in the work-shed. So, they cannot be expected to be interested in education. To change over from the world of work to the world of study is vigorous for them.

Hur and Beverley (2013) explored the role of craft in promoting sustainable fashion, in terms of both production and consumption.

Ajay (2011) says that Kerala has a longstanding tradition of weaving and handloom production, dating back to hundreds of years, once known worldwide and applauded for its uniqueness. Over the years the industry has diminished; low wages and uncertainty in the employment pattern has left weavers in a state of total despair. Thousands of looms lie idle and the future of this age-old tradition looks bleak.

To Varghese( 2015) Handloom sector is a major traditional industry in Kerala. A large number of looms were in existence in Kerala from the time immemorial and even during the early 19 th

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century the factory system of handloom production existed here. This industry faces a large number of problems today in spite of a very glorious past and huge potential for employment generation as well as contributing to the GDP of the state. In this context this paper makes a critical study of the problems and challenges of this industry and offers some remedial strategies and policy options.

The Textile Enquiry Committee (1954) made an extensive survey on handloom industry. The study concentrated on the technical aspects of the industry.

Renukarya et al. (1988) examined the factors affecting the production of cotton handloom weavers' co-op societies using multi-regression model and found that positive correlation existed between yam supply and production of handloom fabrics. He also suggested that administered pricing system will help the societies.

Rao (2012) Done a study in Andhra Pradesh to reveal the socio-economic conditions of the hand loom Weavers. Srinivas done this study based on the field work done in selected districts of Andhra Pradesh.

Kumar (2007) studied the main reasons for the poor performance of Handloom Co-operatives. The reasons includes poor policy outlook and program design, lack of transparency, poor marketing and lack of timely access to credit.

Nair & Vaishnavi,(2017) pointed out that handloom is a traditional wear in India has lost its significance slowly with the advent of low cost and eye catchy synthetic materials. However, with the notion of 'Make in India' campaign and the planning commission giving it a due place in the economic sector under other priority sectors is regaining its unique identity. USA, UK, Germany and France are among the top ten countries to where the Indian handloom products exported. The Indian government launched Handloom brand to ensure its uniqueness, flexibility of production, openness to innovations, adaptability. The number of handloom weaver households decreased in the third handloom census compared to that of second. So as to support weavers the Indian government launched schemes and initiated exhibitions, crafts museum, trade facilitation centre and E-commerce. Market research on the Handlooms identified the need for publicity, availability, Handloom designer dresses and awareness campaigns on a large scale for its sustenance.

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Sudalaimuthu(2006) conduct a detailed study about the handloom industry in India. In his study he says that The Handloom Textiles constitute a timeless part of the rich cultural Heritage of India. The element of art and craft present in Indian handlooms makes it a potential sector for the upper segments of market domestic as well as global. However, the sector is beset with manifold problems such as obsolete technologies, unorganized production system, low productivity, inadequate working capital, conventional product range, weak marketing link, overall stagnation of production and sales and, above all, competition from power loom and mill sector. As a result of effective Government intervention through financial assistance and implementation of various developmental and welfare schemes, the handloom sector, to some extent, has been able to tide over these disadvantages. Thus, Handloom forms a precious part of the generational legacy and exemplifies the richness and diversity of our country and the artistry of the weavers.

IANS (2011) has noted that Indian consumers need to change the thinking; they need to think 'swadeshi' rather than 'videshi’. The greatest tragedy weavers’ face is being ignored not just by people but by designers as well. The fashion industry is a very powerful platform to convey the message across the masses that fashion is more than chic dressing; there has to be an essence to it.

Dr dharam Chand Jain, Miss Ritu(2017) This study make an overview of handloom industry and their problems related to production and manufacturing they suggest that proper training and education about the new technologies of production should be provided to the employees. Dharma Raju P. (2006) in his paper “Marketing in Handloom Co-operatives” expressed his view that, over the decades, the experience of handloom co-operatives has been a mixed one. The arbitrary mergers, excessive control by master weavers and local power groups, politicization and bureaucratization and mismanagement of funds, are some factors that have obstructed the efficient functioning of co-operatives.

TNN(2011) has mentioned that the state government has taken several decisions to encourage weavers to boost handloom industry in the state. The state government with the co-operation of center has formulated severally schemes to improve the socio-economic conditions of the weavers belonging to the handloom industry.

Srinivasa Rao and Dr. N.Sreedhar(2017) through this study they addresses about So many problems which faced by the handloom sector even it provides a livelihood to the majority of the

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people in the country. The sector faces various problems in many fields like production, marketing and finance.

This study focuses some of the important problems faced by the handloom weavers along with the suggestions to these problems

Kalyani Anumala, Pragna Bharati(2017)conducted an analytical study of the issues of handloom industry in Anthra pradesh The aim of the study is to identify the issues faced by the handloom industry. The study draws the attention of master weavers from the undivided state of Andhra Pradesh, especially four districts namely, Nalgonda, Guntur, Krishna and Prakasam districts. This study adopted the quantitative methodology.

The study findings reveal that the handloom industry in this district is unorganized. This reflects that there are some problems faced by the weavers.

Seetha Raman (1987) found on 'Optimisation of Marketing, Production, Financing Systems for Handlooms' focussed on marketing practices adopted by co-optex in relation to the environment. He discussed that a) Cotton handloom fabrics showed a high rate of consumption, b) Product strategies were absent, c) The cash flow of the co-optex was very high during festival seasons, d) Require optimisation of production, marketing and finance was required in co-optex.

P. Arumukham (1990) studied about 'Tamil Nadu Khadi and Village Industries Board-A Study of Financial Management' dealt with the conditions of Khadi and Village Industries view by Tamil Nadu Khadi and Village Industries Board'. N. Meenakshi Sundaram (1991) in his study on 'Khadi and Village Industries Institutions in Tamil Nadu- A Study of Financial Performance', examined the financial performance of selected agencies of Khadi and Village Industries in Tamil Nadu. It recommended the introduction of production and planning, inventory control and collection drive for rejuvenating the management of working capital and improving them towards the bench mark level.

Kumudha(2013) Handloom is one of the ancient methods of making cloths by hand which exemplifies the richness of our country. It provides employment opportunities to millions of people in the rural and suburban belts of our country. In a decentralized Sector like handloom there are many problems related to weavers, input material, marketing etc. Most of the problems

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faced by handloom industry are perennial in nature and hence to sustain the cultural and economic importance of the industry the present study is an effort to understand the various problems faced by Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Societies.

Prachi (2010) has observed that Indian handloom is growing in its popularity not only among the people in India, but also among the people admiring Indian handloom and Indian handicrafts from around the globe. In spite of having distinct styles and ways of weaving, there is a lot of exchange of styles that happened among the diverse Indian handloom styles.

Sudhanshu K K Mishra, Rakesh Srivastava and K I Shariff(2016) - Institute of Rural Development, Lucknow(2016): in this study they try to address the situations of the weavers and the weaving industry in The globally competitive world.

Balakumar(2017) analyses that The Handloom Textiles set up a everlasting part of the gorgeous cultural Heritage of India. The element of art and craft present in Indian handlooms makes it a prospective sector for the upper segments of market domestic as well as international. Conversely, the sector is surrounded with manifold problems such as out dated know-hows, disorganized production system, small productivity, insufficient working capital, predictable product range, pathetic marketing link, overall immobility of production and sales and, beyond all, struggle from power loom and mill sector.

As a consequence of actual Government involvement through financial support and application of various progressive and welfare schemes, the handloom sector, to some magnitude, has been capable to flow over these hindrances. Accordingly, handloom arrangements a priceless part of the generational heritage and demonstrates the fruitfulness and multiplicity of our nation and the talent of the weavers.

Satyajit Das(2018) his study based on extensive fieldwork. It indicates that though the Handloom industry offers a massive amount of employment opportunities to lakhs of artistic weavers, recently it is facing a lot of problems and it has been pushed towards the decline stage of the product lifecycle. These problems are a Poor economic condition of the weavers, High cost of production, to get less opportunities of Assam market throughout the year, the poor performance of the co-operative sector. Competition from power looms and middleman. the additional threat but these can be countered when the sector produces high-value products which

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can be marketed locally or abroad those are different from power loom products. So to bring the industry back to growth stage the above mention problems has to be well addressed.

Xavier (2008) in his study on problems and prospects of Co-optex opined that there is no improvement in the production techniques of handloom goods. With poor designs and lack of attractiveness, the handloom goods cannot compete with mill made cotton and polyester materials.

Meenakshisundaram (2002) analyzed the progress in production and sale of handloom products sold in Erode Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society. The study found that the production rate fell down due to the competition from power loom and organized mill made cloths and migration of weavers to power loom.

Abhipedia.Abhimanu.com - This article reveals the role of handloom industry in Indian economy, the problems of handloom Industry and the measures taken by the government for the development of this industry. according to this article Handloom industry in India is the most important & ancient cottage industry with a decentralized setup. The industry is providing livelihood for millions of people in the country. About ten millions are directly depend on the industry to eke out their livelihood. While many more millions of people depend upon subsidiary, occupations connected with the handloom industry.the government of India also acting towards the improvement for the handloom industry like Deen Dayal Hathkarga Protsahan Yojana. But still the industry facing somany probelms.

Krishna M B(2020) conducted a study among the handloom cooperative society about the financial problems faced by the handloom Weavers. And also the study concentrates on the availability of various Government schemes available to support the handloom weavers. The study also finds that the financial support from the side of Government is very limited. The study recommends that wage hike is the need of the hour and the wages should be provided to them without any delay. The immediate intervention of the Government is inevitable for the survival of these handloom weavers.

Rizwana(2013) - In her study she pointed out that handloom is a traditional industry offering employment opportunity to millions of weavers in India, but they recently face a lot of problems and they are going towards the declining stage. They identifies that there are various factors

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which lead to the extinction of handloom industry. Promotion is considered as the key factor which needs to be improved more for the betterment of handloom industry.

Semantic scholar.org. This study conducted among the handloom Weavers of Varanasi about their present situation. the scholar substantiate that After industrialization, the handloom industry has been decline. The problems are invention of new technology (power-loom), capitalist control, drop off in wages, increased price of yarn, and so on.

The Meera Seth Committee (1995) reviewed the impact of Government policy on handloom, 1985. It described how the handloom faced during the years after the implementation of the textile policy of 1985.

Venkateswaran.A (2014) in his paper 'A Socio Economic Conditions of Handloom Weaving :A field study in Kallidaikurichi of Tiruneveli District', studied on the socio-economic conditions of the handloom weavers and the problems faced by the handloom weavers.

MD Ismail (2017)Done a detailed study about the problems faced by the handloom Weavers in Telangana state based on the field work. according to them the Weavers faced financial, marketing and production problems. The production problems mainly due to the technological upgradation of looms. They also facing social and personal problems like wage problems, livelihood issues, health issues etc.

Ankom and Ismail try to introduce some suggestions to overcome the handloom related issues .

According to Zenedo.org Handloom industry in India is the most important & ancient cottage industry with a decentralized setup. The industry is providing livelihood for millions of people in the country. About ten millions are directly depend on the industry to eke out their livelihood. While many more millions of people depend upon subsidiary, occupations connected with the handloom industry. Thus, this industry constitutes one of the major sectors providing employment to the large number of people next only to agriculture. In regards to production of cloth, this handloom industry is producing one third of the total cloth requirement of the country.

Handloom a timeless tradition(chinmaya upahar.in) This article introduce the history and current situation of handloom .

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Ramaswami velmurukan and Belram K P(2018) In this study the address about the impact of powerloom technics on the handloom industry but nowadays Government desires that power looms and handlooms coexist harmoniously and do not cut into each other’s traditional markets.

In other words, the traditional thinking of handloom versus power loom should be replaced by handloom and power loom.

Ayesha kohli(2019) In India there are different styles of weaving in different parts of the country, and sometimes in the same region there could be as wide a range as 20- 30 varied styles. From simple plain fabrics, Tribal motifs, geometric designs, tye and dye, to exhaustive art on muslin. Our weavers have been master craftspeople. No other country can boast of such exclusive wide range of rich textile art, even today. Just like paintings and photographs, each woven sari is a masterpiece. Saying that handloom must perish for its time consuming and laborious compared to powerloom, is like saying painting, photography, clay modelling will go obsolete because of 3d printers and graphic designs.

Purala Venkata Sree Vaishnavi(2017) describes about the role of handloom sector and types of weaving prevailing in India. Through this article he try to reveal the modernization of handloom sector and the programs and policies introduced by the government for the upliftment of weaving industry. Gurumoorthy and Rengachary (2002) studied the problems faced by handloom industry. The study identified the major problems as shortage of input, poor working capital, and accumulation of huge stock and marketing of handloom products.

Lakshmi Devi CS (2014) an analysis of socio economic status of handloom Weavers on India. In this study she find out thay the handloo sector has been slowly deteriorating over the years. The adverse government policies, globalization and change in socio economic conditions negatively affect the living status of the Weavers. She says that the competition from power loom and mill sector also paved a way for the decline of handloom sector.

Sevakran (2011) highlighted the role of the handloom development Boards in the development of Handloom weavers and Co-operatives.

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C.S. Rao (2000) highlighted the employment potentiality in handloom industry and suggested the strengthening of handloom co-operatives for generating more employment.

Varghese and Salim (2015) analysed the challenges faced by the Kerela handloom sector and suggested skill development program initiative to be undertaken by government to train the large percentage of unskilled labour in Kerela handloom.

Gurumoorthy and Rengachary (2002) have argued low working capital, insufficient raw material and over stocking of inventory to be the main issues plaguing the handloom industry.

Gopika IS (2019) says about the living conditions and problems of handloom Weavers on the basin of some cases which she studied.

Alam and Khan (2010) conducted study about handloom Industry in pakaistan. According to them the decline of handloom Industry is mainly due to the advent of modern techniques like powerloom. And they stated that most of the machinery in the Pakistan textile industry is out dated and obsolete. This inability to modernizing the equipment and machinery on time machinery has led to the decline of Pakistani textile industry.

Dr. Raju Phukan(2012) studied about the problems and prospects of handloom Weavers in Assam. He says that for the upliftment of handloom sector it is most essential to identify the problems faced by this industry. Poor marketing and insufficient market linkage outside the state ails the industry from growing and earning more revenue. Apart from other, innovations in design to cope up with the latest market demand are not sufficient and have posed a threat to this indigenous industry. Therefore, it is high time that all round efforts are made to revive this important and unique industry.

Tripathy (2009) studied the handloom core industry of Orissa and stated that low skill, illiteracy of workers, excess cost management and ever fluctuating yarn price were the evils of mismanagement.

The New Indian Express (2018) This articles about the flood hit handloom business in Kerala on the basis of some cases studies. for the people of Chendamangalam, handloom is rhe main source of livelihood since 1950s. But now raw materials and their equipments were damaged due to flood. there is at least 5 to 6 months will take to repair the loom . the Weavers won't have any

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work till the looms are repared. Thus this article shows that the handloom industry in chendamangalam passing through severe crisis.

KKN Kurupp(2017) The Government of Kerala has introduced some special programmes for the development of handloom industry. Many of the individuals engaged in this traditional industry are brought under the management of co-operative societies. the handloom industry as such faces a great crisis from the competition initiated by the power looms and their cheap commodity production based on mechanisation. However the handloom survives as one of the largest sectors of employment, particularly consisting of weaker sections of wage labourers.

Tasneem Shazi, Abdul Muneer(2014) carried out a study about femail work participation in handloom industry.The analysis brings out the fact that textile female weavers of Mubarakpur town are very poor from economic point of view. These female weavers are suffering mainly because the handicraft industry in Mubarakpur town has declined in the last few decades due to intra muslim riots which has hampered the trade and due to the invasion of powerloom in the adjoining regions like mau. This gradual decline in handloom industry has badly affected the income of weavers. The share of females has increased after the decline in this sector from past few decades; this is mainly to raise the income status of their family. This continuous decline has increased the health problems in female weavers as their work is more physical. The status of education and health facilities is also poor in this town. Thus the problem of female weavers can be handled by qualitative modification, guidance and protection for the balanced development by the government in handloom industry.

The Hans India (2019) this article shows the ignorance of government over the handloom industry in Bhagalpur the Weavers not get any profit from it this article says the government should involved in this problem otherwise the industry will die soon

Dr. Sudhanshu KK Mishra(2016) Conclusion The handloom sector is an important sector providing large scale employment in rural areas as well as preserving heritage. The sector is facing several challenges but the future growth in the handloom sector could be achieved through a series of strategic interventions in the key constraint areas highlighted above. Many of these interventions may be market led and ushered in by private market players.

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Thushari, DGK Dissanayak(2018) The study attempts to explore opportunities & barriers of Community Based Entrepreneurship to enhance livelihood prospects for handloom communities. It discovers that handloom communities have products that are in demand around the world to sell and that Community Based Entrepreneurship could enable these communities to take charge of their own destiny.

Light and Dana (2013) discussed the challenges faced in the development of CBE in rural areas, emphasizing the lack of continuous support received in business development process from the current markets, service providers, and other entrepreneurs.

Parwez (2017) emphasized that the CB entrepreneurial ventures face problems in every step from societal barriers to the market.

Srimala Peters(2017) The study attempts to explore the possible connection between craft practice and sustainable development. This research demonstrates the successful application of fairtrade principles in developing sustainable trades and communities. It also suggest a sustainable business approach that could possibly be adopted by other textile handloom manufacturers and craft businesses. If this model was to be expanded significantly with the inclusion of communities affected by war, it would positively influence local economy and also the society by alleviating poverty, rebuilding collaborative relationships among different ethnic groups and safeguarding the cultural identity of Sri Lanka.

Cox and Bebbington (2015) insisted that craft practice and social sustainability share common aspirations, and if craft would support to meet sustainable development principles, it may help craft products to access new markets.

Ajit Kanikar (2006) studied the credit flows to the handloom sector, attempted to make a preliminary estimate of the demand for credit to the handloom Industry. The study reviewed the existing credit delivery mechanisms and all possible alternate mechanisms. The study also made an inquiry into the discrepancy between the policies and the real credit flows to the sector and brought to light the consistent declining trend in credit flows to the handloom sector over the years.

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Seemanthini Niranjan (2007) in her study identified the strength and weakness of handloom industry and suggested that the right kind of investment in the handloom sector will result in gainful occupation. The right kind of investment includes developing appropriate infrastructure, designing suitable production technology, capacity building across the production-marketing value chain and strengthening institutions that can ensure producer equity.

Narasimha Reddy (2006) studied the issues of women weavers in handloom industry. It has been stated that the trade policies are defining the production system to suit the international trade which in turn affect the existing socio-economic relationship between man and woman against woman. The study chalked out an action plan for the up-liftment of poor woman weavers. The study suggests woman to benefit from the current scenario need to move up the value chain in production and need to be in the leadership and value addition levels. It also recommended that there should be specific development programme and budget allocation at National level for the benefit of woman handloom weavers.

Greeshma, (2001) pointed out that the co-operative societies failed to ensure regular supply of yarn to weavers and were often dominated by a few individuals. It has been observed that the handloom production showed a declining trend over the past 10 years. Through this article we can understand that the cooperative society is not effecient enough to solve the problems in the field of handloom.

Textilevaluechain.in (2017) India is considered to be the world’s best handloom hub and this will continue to be so in the future. Handloom sector has high potential to grow further with focused approach while matching with the modern aspects of living hood. Weavers are gifted with craftsmanship, they are God sent, they deserve higher place in the society like any good painter or artist. Hand woven products are vibrant; it is made with the threads potent with tenacity, strength, passion and dignity. Fabrics so produced carry special values and hence should not be deprived of its value for money. With such belief handloom will remain sustainable as ever.

Somappa (2000) expressed that the capacity of utilization was low due to shortage of yarn and competition from mill sector, The author opined that the vacume thus created in the internal market would be met by handlooms.

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CHAPTER 3

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

TITLE: TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM WEAVERS OF BALARAMAPURAM: PROBLEMS AND CHALLENGES

OBJECTIVE General Objective To understand the problems and challenges faced by the traditional handloom weavers in the modernised handloom sector of Balaramapuram Specific objectives 1) To find out the problems faced by the traditional handloom Weavers (health/income maintenance/infrastructure/market). 2) To understand the present socio economic condition of the traditional handloom weavers. 3) To identify how they try to compete with the modern textile industry. 4) To find out why they still follow the traditional mode of weaving. VARIABLES Dependent Variables Problems, challenges, demand, occupation, status, income Independent variables Expansion of Modern looms RESEARCH DESIGN Survey design was used in the study. PILOT STUDY Before starting the actual study a pilot study was conducted to understand the feasibility of the research.

AREA OF STUDY

This study was confined to handloom weavers of kottukalkkonam handloom industry at Balaramapuram. Balaramapuram is a Panchayat in the city of Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala, India. It is one of the most urbanized Panchayat in Trivandrum district. Balaramapuram is famous as the centre for the production of traditional varieties of handloom textiles meant for the

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contemporary cloth wearing style of Kerala. Presently, a major portion of the hand loom clothes produced in this area is sold to the Handloom Development Corporation and Hantex.

Due to the emergence of power looms in the weaving industry and drop in the prices of related items, the inhabitants found it difficult to persevere in the same field of activity as a result of which, the younger generations are looking for alternate employment to make ends meet. All varieties which were reserved for exclusive production in the hand loom sector, are now extensively and widely produced in power looms making the hand loom products not competitive in the market. Hence the proposed study was conducted among traditional handloom weavers in balaramapuram.

UNIVERSE All the traditional Handloom weavers in Kottukalkonam, Balaramapuram form the universe of the study

UNIT

A single traditional weaver of Kottukalkonam is the unit of study

SAMPLING Systematic sampling was followed in the study. From the sampling frame available from the Panchyath 60 traditional handloom weavers were selected.

SAMPLE SIZE 60 traditional handloom weavers

TOOLS OF DATA COLLECTION

Information from the weavers was collected using a structured interview schedule. Apart from this, personal interview and observation methods was also used in collecting the first hand information.

PRETEST The tool was pretested before the actual data collection to understand the flaws if any in the constructed tool.

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DATA COLLECTION Both primary data and secondary data was used for the study. Secondary data was obtained from sources including published scholastic articles, books and journals.

ANALYSIS Analysis was done quantitatively. A descriptive statistical analysis stating the characteristics and attributes of the sample was conducted.

CHAPTERIZATION

Chapter 1 contains the introduction about the study and the various concepts related to the study.

Chapter 2 deals with the review of literature that carried out during the course of study. It analyses previous studies conducted by the various researchers about the related issues in global national and regional level.

Chapter 3 consists of the methodology of the study. It includes all the aspects of the research. It includes the title of the study, research design, sampling, methods of data collection.

Chapter 4 concerned with data analyses. It includes the tabulation of collected data and its interpretation.

Chapter 5 highlights the conclusion, findings and suggestions made by the researcher.

Final part deals with Bibliography, and the tool used for data collection of the study.

LIMITATIONS OF TGE STUDY

1. Limited access to data 2. Due to lockdown the researcher couldn't able to collect as much of responses 3. Lack of time for the respondents to take part in the study

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CHAPTER 4

DATA ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION

The present study employed a quantitative research strategy where descriptive statistics is mainly used. The data was collected by using an interview schedule and the information gathered provide explanation about the people and their situation.

The researcher collected data about the handloom Weavers by using a structured interview schedule based on specific objectives.

 To understand the present socio-economic conditions of the traditional handloom Weavers  To find out the problems faced by the traditional handloom Weavers  To identify how they try to compete with the modern textile industry  To find out why they still follow the traditional mode of weaving

The data analysis is based on the specific objectives and the data are represented in tabular form.

In Social sciences, especially in sociology the analysis of socio economic profile of the respondents has crucial importance. The social environment plays a vital role in regulating one's action and attitude. A Socio-economic status index measure includes the status indicators such as age, education, income, marital status etc. This section is an attempt to analyze the socio economic background of people.

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OBJECTIVE - 1 To understand the present socio-economic conditions of the traditional handloom Weavers Table 4.1 Age group of the respondents Age group Frequency Percentage

30 – 40 6 10%

40 – 50 20 33.33%

50 – 60 29 48.33%

60 and above 5 8.33%

Total 60 100

The above table shows that 48.33% of Weavers belonging to the category of 50 - 60 age group. Only 8.33% of Weavers belonging to 60 and above age group. 10% of people who were involved in handloom is belonging to 30-40 category of age. Similarly 33.33%of people belonging to the category of 40 - 50 age group.

The table shows that majority of the Weavers belonging to above 50 years. This reveals the fact that the youngsters were hesitated to join the traditional handloom Industry.

Table No 4.2: Gender

Gender of Weavers Frequency Percentage

Male 27 45%

Female 33 55%

Total 60 100%

This table illustrate that majority of the weavers are belonging to female category with the proportion of 55%. And 45% of people were males. There are no transgender employees working in handloom industry where the research is carried out. In this study researcher found

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that male member is the main source of income. The male members of the family are also doing other jobs. So, it is not just weaving alone the means of livelihood in majority of the families.

Table 4.3 Education of the Weavers

Education of the Weavers Frequency Percentage

Lower primary level 18 30%

Upper primary level 13 21.66%

High school level 18 30%

Higher secondary level 08 13.33%

Above Higher Secondary 03 5%

Total 60 100%

Table 4.3 depicts that majority of the respondents have the education of primary level as 30% people have lower primary and 30% people have high school level of education and 21.66% of people have upper primary education . 13.33% of people who were involved in weaving industry have higher secondary level education. And only 5% of people have above higher secondary level education. Low level of education is one of the reasons which hold them in this industry.

Table No 4.4: Source of Income of Weavers

Source of income Frequency Percentage

From weaving 60 100%

From other sources 34 56.66%

Total 60 100%

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Figure 4.4 gives details about the source of income of Weavers. As per this table the main source of income of people is handloom. 56.66 % of people seek other sources of income along with the handloom industry like going out for work.

Table No 4.5 : Level of income of Weavers

Level of income Frequency Percentage

5000 - 10000 17 28.33%

10000 - 20000 20 33.33%

20000 - 30000 18 30%

30000 & above 5 8.33%

Total 60 100%

The above table shows that 33.3% of people belonging to the income level of 10000 - 20000. In short, majority of the weavers have the income between 5000 - 30000. Only 8.33%of people have the income of above 30000.

Table no 4.6: Ownership of House

Lives in Frequency Percentage

Own house 49 81.66%

Rented house 11 18.33%

Total 60 100%

Table no 4.6 gives an information that 81.66% of Weavers have their own houses. And only 18.33% of persons were lives in rented house.

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Table No 4.7: Accessibility of bonus

Accessibility of bonus Frequency Percentage

Yes 60 100%

This table asserts that all of the employees in weaving industry get bonus on special occasions. There is no shortage pertaining to getting bonus on special occasions like Onam, Christmas etc.

Table No 4.8: Wages

Availability of wages Frequency Percentage

Yes 52 86.66%

No 8 13.33%

Total 60 100%

Above table depicts that 86.66% of get wages as per the job. And 13.33% of Weavers did not get the proper income.

Table No 4.9: Parallel job

Parallel job Frequency Percentage

Yes 18 30%

No 42 70%

Total 60 100%

The above table mentions that 30%of Weavers do other jobs parallel to handloom due to various reasons. 70% of people are depending on the handloom Industry.

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OBJECTIVE - 2

To understand the present socio economic condition of the traditional handloom weavers

Table No 4.10: Health problem

Health problems Frequency Percentage

Eye sight 8 13.33%

Back pain 23 38.8%

Problem of lungs 14 23.33%

Others 25 41.66%

Table 4.10 illustrate about the health issues faced by the Weavers. This table shows that all the Weavers face some health issues. Among that 38.8% of people have backp ain and 23.33% of propel suffering with the problem of lungs. 13.33% of people have the issue of eye sight and they use spectacles to overcome from this issue. Other people who are not included into the specific options like eye sight, back pain problem of lungs etc were included in the category of others. These people have the issues related to weaving like body pain.

Table No 4.11: Bases of income

Bases of income Frequency Percentage

Per work 60 100%

The table shows that all of the Weavers get income as per the work.

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Table No 4.12: Weavers who weave designer saree

Do you weave designer saree Frequency Percentage

Yes 22 36.66%

No 38 63.33%

This table gives information about how many weavers are engaged in weaving designer sarees. Here only 36.66% of people engaged in weaving designer sarees.

Table No 4.13: Difficulty

Facing difficulty Frequency Percentage

Yes 2 3.33%

No 20 33.33%

Table no 4.13 asserts that majority of the respondents that is 33.33% of weavers who are engaged in designing designer sarees do not face any difficulty in weaving designer sarees. Only 3.33% of people facing difficulty in weaving designer sarees.

Table No 4.14: Availability of extra wages

Do you get extra wages Frequency Percentage

Yes 22 100%

From this table we get information that the people who engaged in weavings designer sarees get extra wages for it. From the 60 respondents there is only 22 respondents who are engaged in weaving designer sarees and all of them are getting extra wages for the designer saree.

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Table No 4.15: Awareness of marketing trends

Are you aware about the new marketing trends Frequency Percentage

Yes 60 100%

The above table indicates that all of the handloom weavers are aware about the new marketing trends and their weaving is according to the new trends.

Table No 4.16: Problems due to lack of technological upgradation

Problems Frequency Percentage

Time consuming 38 63.33%

Over straining 20 33.33%

Low production 8 13.33%

Health issues 13 21.66%

The above table depicts about the problems faced by the weavers due to the lack of technological upgradation of handlooms. 63.33% of people say that it is time consuming that weaving in handloom. 33.33% of people says that it is overstraining and they are faced with various health related issues. 21.66% of people illustrate that they faced health issues like backpain, body pain etc. Similarly 13.33% of people asserts that the production in handloom is very low when it is compared with power loom. A study by Ankam and Ismail also found that Weaving continuous to be a traditional and hereditary occupation. The weavers are following traditional methods of production and design due to lack of exposure, awareness and knowledge over changing technologies, methods and the requirements. The production capacity of these looms is low and the job is tedious. This sector encounters tough competition from superior quality products available at cheaper prices from the organized sectors. For technology development, major efforts are needed for modernization of looms, increasing productivity, quality of products,

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standardization of various processes and products and production of value added products. Lack of training is also another drawback.

Table No 4.17: Does the government provide any courses like fashion designing

Courses Frequency Percentage

Yes 8 13.33%

No 52 86.66%

Table no 4.17 shows that 13.33%of people says that government provide some courses which promote fashion designing. But majority of the Weavers says with the proportion of 86.66% there are no courses provided by the government for fashion designing.

OBJECTIVE 3

To identify how they try to compete with the modern textile industry.

Table No 4.18: Techniques to improve the demand

Techniques Frequency Percentage

Through advertising 11 18.33%

Introduce new designs 7 11.66%

There is no decrease in the demand of 48 80% handloom product

The above table shows the techniques taken by the industry when the demand of handloom decreased. 18.33% of Weavers says that they try to increase the demand through advertising. And 11.66% percentage of people said that they introduce new designs when the demand

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decreases. But majority of the Weavers with the proportion of 80% says that there is no any decrease in the demand of handloom products.

Table No 4.19: Measures taken by the government

Measures Frequency Percentage

Yes 60 100%

No 28 46.66%

This table asserts that the government takes measures like new programs, subsidy to install machines etc. All of the Weavers said that government introduces programs. They all told about "uniform program". 46.66% of people told that the government provide subsidy for the installation of New machines. But they are not the beneficiaries of it. They are working as Weavers under the handloom units headed by the hantex.

OBJECTIVE 4

To find out why they still follow the traditional mode of weaving

Table No 4.20: Demand of product

Is the product have demand Frequency Percentage

Yes 14 23.33%

Increasing 46 76.66%

Decreasing 0 0%

The above table shows the level of demand of handloom product. From this table we get the information that majority of the Weavers says that there is no decrease in the demand of

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handloom product. 76.66% of people says that the demand of product increased and 23.33% of people says that the product still have the demand as it have in past. Prachi (2010) in the study observed that Indian handloom is growing in its popularity not only among the people in India, but also among the people admiring Indian handloom and Indian handicrafts from around the globe. In spite of having distinct styles and ways of weaving, there is a lot of exchange of styles that happened among the diverse Indian handloom styles.

Table No 4.21: Government initiative for install machines

Is the government provide any Frequency Percentage subsidy?

Yes 37 61.66%

No 15 25%

Don't know about it 08 13.33%

This table asserts that the government provides various schemes for the upliftment of handloom industry. 61.66% of people agree with this. 25% of people opined that there is no benefits of such programs to them. And 13.33% of people told that they are not aware of such programs or they did not get the benefits of such programs.

Table No 4.22: Measurement of profit

Profit Frequency Percentage

Power loom 36 60%

Handloom 24 40%

The table illustrate about which is more profitable according to the weavers. Here, 60% of people told that powerloom is more profitable than handloom. Remaining 40% indicates that handloom is profitable.

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Table No 4.23: Is the powerloom require any skill

Is the powerloom Frequency Percentage

require any skill

Yes 17 28.33%

No 43 71.667%

Majority of the Weavers asserts that there is no need for any special skill to weave in power loom. Anyone can study to weave in power loom. 28.33% of people told that it need special skill.

Table No 4.24: Why still follow the traditional mode of weaving

Reason Frequency Percentage

Lack of awareness in other job 20 33.33%

Don't know how to operate power 15 25% loom

It is our traditional job 25 41.66%

The above table shows that majority of the Weavers are emotionally attached with their job. 41.66% of people are doing this job only because it is their traditional job. 33.33% of people told that they do not know other jobs. And 25% of people assert that they did not know how to operate power loom so they are following the traditional way.

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CHAPTER 4

FINDINGS, CONCLUSIONS AND SUGGESTIONS

The Handloom sector plays a vital role in the economic development of a country. It is one of the largest economic activities after agriculture, providing direct employment to more than 43 lakhs, weavers in India with 23.77 lakhs Handlooms. This sector contributes nearby 15% of the total cloth produced in the country and also contributes to the export earning Rs.3,000 Crores, 95% of the world Handloom fabric comes from India. Traditional Indian handloom enjoys a global reputation as well as huge demands in the local markets. However, the weavers face a number of challenges which affect their livelihood and overall wellbeing. The rapidly increasing industrialization, globalization and advent of modern technology have brought with various challenges for the development of the handloom industry especially to the traditional weavers. The present study was an attempt to understand the problems and challenges faced by the traditional handloom weavers in the modernized textile industry. It also tries to shed light into the prospects if any they have in the present scenario.

This study is based on primary data collected through interview schedules from 60 traditional weavers residing in Balaramapuram of Thiruvananthapuram District.

The result of the study revealed that the weavers are facing a number of challenges like financial constraint, inability to purchase up-to-date machineries, poor working condition, meagre remuneration and the absence of government support.

To find out the problems faced by the traditional handloom Weavers

The study found the various problems faced by the traditional handloom Weavers. The study found that the Weavers faced problems like low-income, issues related to their health etc. Majority of the Weavers are satisfied with their lives in terms of housing, basic needs etc. but they are only have basic facilities. The income from the weaving is not sufficient for their other needs like house maintenance, education of children and other secondary needs. The problem faced by the industries influence the Weavers life directly or indirectly.

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The study found that the youngsters were hesitant to join the handloom industry, because of the straining nature of the job and its low income. The handloom industry is moving on to its destruction. Now the majority of the Weavers are middle aged people and they told that the youngsters are not entering into this field. It is due to the various health issues like back pain, lungs problem, body pain etc and also need more effort than any other job. Their working time is from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. until this time they work without any rest for complete their job. The dust from the loom causes lung diseases. Some Weavers are weaving designer sarees in handloom. Majority of the weavers says that it is not difficult to weave designer sarees; but it require more time. They're get extra wages for weaving designer sarees.

Due to a lack of technological upgradation the weavers face problems like time-consuming, health issues, stress etc. But the technological upgradation of looms lead to the destruction of handlooms. So it is not possible to mechanize the loom. The handloom is the part of our culture. The technological upgradation leads to extinction of that culture.

Researcher is of opinion that the non implementation of new design techniques is one of the problems faced by the handloom industry. But it is not true the handloom weavers are very efficient to make new designs which attract the people to buy the handloom product. study find out that the main problem faced by the industry is lack of employees. Many of the handloom industry were closed due to lack of employees.

Weaving has nine steps. Each step requires employees. But hand loom industry are now facing difficulty in getting employees for various activities related to weaving and this industry is moving to its extinction.

There are some schemes introduced by the government for the weavers well being but the weavers says that they can't get anything from government but they know about some schemes provided by government.

Socio economic conditions of the Weavers

The handloom industry is one of the oldest cottage industries in India. The Weavers facing a number of challenges like low-income, absence of government support. The benefits of the government support did not reach to the grassroots people.

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Majority of the weavers have their own house and it have basic facilities also. But the income from the weaving is not sufficient to meet the needs like education for children, home maintenance, infrastructure facilities. Majority of the Weavers have primary level of education. After completing their primary or high school level of education they are entering into the handloom weaving in their early ages. So, that they do not complete their education. But now they are not interested to bring this job to their children. They gave better education to their children. They are not interested to their children coming to this field. Because this field have not sufficient income.

They says that the prosperity of the handloom Industry is regenerated and their life also. Majority of the Weavers are females. In majority of the family the male member is the main source of income along with the women doing weaving.

One of the positive thing is that the Weavers get wages and bonus on correct time under the handloom units. They get bonus on special occasions like Onam, Christmas etc. They get extra wages for weaving designer sarees. In short, they get wages on correct time. But it is not sufficient.

The study also found out that 30% of the total respondents doing other jobs parallel to handloom like agriculture. The Weavers are mainly women and the men doing other jobs like construction work which have more income than weaving. Because of the low income the main factors which pull back the Weavers and restrict youngsters into this field.

Find out how they try to compete with the modern textile industry

The handloom Industry faces many problems due to the invasion of modern looms. Majority of the Weavers said that, the handloom Industry have the demand as it have in past. And the demand has increased now.

The reason is that that the handloom industry do not add any chemicals. So it has high demand on international markets. But no one care to uplift handloom industry. The main problem faced by the industry is the import of machine made clothes from tamilnadu in the name of "Balaramapuram Kaithari". The Divas rinsing the yarn with high-quality so it has highest demand on international markets. The rivers giving on handloom called "Kuzhithari". Later it

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shifted into “shuttle thari". Then it moves on to power loom. The clothes which weaves in hand loom have high demand even if it is costly.

They weave the cloths according to new trends. Due to the quality and new designs the products still have the demand. The main problem of handloom industry is the invasion of power loom product in the name of balaramapuram kaithari. They made the power loom product as the same pattern of the balaramapuram kaithari. And they sell it into low cost. So the customers buy that fake product. The ordinary people do not have the ability to identify what are power loom and handloom products. It only can identify the Weavers. So it is one of the main challenges faced by the handloom industry. And the textile shop owners also encouraging the power loom product. The weavers say that there is one way to identify the handloom products that the two sides of the cloths are same and it is very smooth.

Government established hantex for the welfare of handloom industry. But the people say that even the hantex buy the power loom product. They sell the product not only through the hantex. But also they sell their products through so many private companies. They say that the private sector is very helpful for them. When the government agencies begin to buy power loom (those who obligate you buy and sell handloom products) it affect the handloom employees’ socio economic life. Majority of the handloom industry under the government do not work now due to lack of employees.

Government introduced the programs like "loom at home"," uniform program" etc. and also provide facilities to establish looms as their own. But it requires one's own shop or space to establish machineries. so the Weavers do not attempt to get it. They work as weavers at handloom units for daily wages. The uniform programs are established by the government as on of the effective initiative. But now it is not beneficial. Because the Weavers do not get the wages even after 8 months. The government initiative of school uniform for student is not fruitful recently as the government do not provide raw materials and salary for the Weavers.

The handloom industry conducts "Mela" on festival seasons like Onam to introduce new designs in handloom cloths. Selecting the best designer and give award to them. It is an encouraging program for Weavers. Process state handloom is more profitable than in past.

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To find out the reasons for following traditional mode of weaving

Even it have low income the weavers follow this job. Desh says that the demand of handloom product is increase than in past. In international market the handloom products have high demand.

The Weavers told that the handloom is profitable for its owners for the employees the power loom is more profitable. The wages get in power loom is more than from the handloom. Even though as a employee shall follow the traditional mode of weaving there are so many reasons behind it.

Majority of the leaders are emotionally attached to their job. Majority of them have only primary level of education and they join into this industry in their early ages. And they do not know any other jobs to do. They say that after their period the handloom will be extinct.

The Weavers sees it is an emotion rather than a job. They are very like to provide information about the handloom to anyone even it is not give as much profit to them. They says about its quality that the handloom and power loom is similar to see but the handloom is more smoother than power loom

The handloom is maintained its novelty for minimum 20 years but the power loom product loses its newness after 2 years. They give the answers when asking to them why you are still following traditional mode of weaving. They says that it is our traditional job and we do this job from generation to generation. It is our culture after our period the industry will be die because the youngsters are not interested to join this industry. So, we are following this. Another thing is that we are entering to this field in our early ages. So, we do not know any other job alternative to it.

Other findings

76.60% of Weavers were married. This data is collected to analyze their socio economic condition also. 21.66 people were widow or widower.

30% of the Weavers children have above higher secondary level education like bachelor degree, diploma and post graduation degree. 25% of people's children have higher secondary level education. 23.66% of children have high school level of education 20% of children are studying

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in UP and 1.66% of children studying at LP level. Here the age of the children is one of the factor in this analyse.

The working time of Weavers is from 8 am to 6 pm. There are 9 steps involved in making handloom fabrics. They says that to weaving two dhothi take almost 9 Hours. And 7 - 8 days take to weave a saree. But in the case of designer saree it will take 15 days. The quality of handloom fabric is more than power loom. It lasts for almost 20 years. Many of the handloom Industry were closed due to lack of employees.

SUGGESTIONS

 It is necessary to improve the salary of Weavers to retain the sector  Effectively Administer the programs introduced by the government  Make sure that the employees get the benefits of the programs  Make a detailed study about the problems and challenges faced by both the handloom industry and the Weavers  It is necessary to take Certain measures to restrict the flow of fake product in the name of "balaramapuram Kaithari".

CONCLUSION

Handloom sector is a major traditional industry. But now it is in the edge of its extinction mainly due to the invasion of power loom. The problem faced by the handloom industry affect the life of weavers. As a part of it the traditional Weavers also faces problems and challenges. They faced various socio-economic and physical problems and challenges. The Weavers get wages and bonus on time but it is not sufficient to maintain the economic balance. So they seek other jobs parallel to it. Majority of the members are women inthis study who are engaged in weaving. And the male members in the family do not only involve in weaving they also goes to other jobs which have more income. So, this study reveals that majority of the family are not only depending on the handloom. But a small proportion of people still completely depending on handloom.

The handloom industry is now on the edge of its decline. But in market the handloom product still have highest demand. Due to the lack of sufficient income the Weavers and the youngsters

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are hesitant to join this industry thus so many handloom units were closed so, there is no sufficient production processing even if the demand is high.

Another challenge faced by this industry is that the invasion of power loom products in the name of balaramapuram kaithari. In this case the customers are not able to identify the real handloom product. The sellers also encourage to the power loom product. So it is the main problem affecting the Industry.

From the present study it is concluded that Handloom weavers in Balaramapuram are mostly traditional weavers and they are in a pitiable condition, owing to poor socio-economic condition. However various unfavourable factors lead to decline on the aspect of socio-economic conditions. Majority of them are wage weavers working for more than 8 hours.

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APPENDIX

TOOL FOR DATA COLLECTION

TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM WEAVERS OF BALARAMAPURAM: PROBLEMS AND CHALLENGES

1. Name: 2. Age: 3. Gender:

a)Male. b) Female. c) Transgender 4. Marital status:

a) Married. b) Unmarried. c) divorced. d) widow/widower 5. Educational qualification:

a) LP. b) UP. c) HS. d) Pre Degree. e) above 6. Type of family :

a) Nuclear. b) joint 7. Education of children:

a) LP. b) UP. c) HS. d) HSS e) above

8. Monthly income :

a) from weaving , b) from other resources

9. Where you live?

a) own House. b) rented house 10. Years of experience in handloom? 11.How many members of your family are involved in the process of weaving?

12. Do you get bonus on special days?

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a) Yes. b) No

13. Do you get wages as per the job?

a) Yes. b)No 14. Do you have any other job parallel to it?

a) Yes. b) No

15. What is the factor forced to do so?

16. Do you have any problems with respect to weaving?

a)Yes b)No 17. What are the health problems affected by the weaver? a) eye sight, b) cataract, c) back pain, d) problem of lungs, e) others 18.. On what bases you get income?

a) Perday b)perwork 19. Do you weave designer saree in handloom?

a)Yes b)No 20. Have you faced any difficulty in weaving designer saree in handloom?

a)Yes b)No 21. Do you get any extra wages for it?

a) Yes. b) No

22. How many days you take to weave a single saree/dothi? 23. What are the problems do you face due to lack of technological upgradation of

looms?

a) Time consuming b) Over straining. c) low production. d) Health issues

24. Are you aware about the new marketing trends and consumer taste?

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a) Yes. b) No

25. Is your weaving according to it?

a) Yes. b) No 26. I think Non implementation of new design tecniques is one of the problem faced by

the handloom industry, why you seek a help of the fashion designer?

27.Does the government provide any courses like fashion designing?

a) Yes b)No. (Explain) 28.What are the techniques taken by the weavers/ industry when the demand of

handloom product decreased?

a) Through advertising. b) Introduce new designs. c) There is no decrease in

demand of handloom product

29.What are the measures taken by the government to improve the demand of

Handloom product?

a) Introduce new designs. b) provide subsidy to install new machines

30.How beneficial it is?

31.What are the measures taken by the industry to increase the demand?

32.Is the price of handloom clothing a reason for consumers to buy machine made

cloths?

a) Yes b) No

33.What is your opinion about it? 34.Is the handloom product still have the demand as it have in past?

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a) Yes. b) No. c) increased d) decreased

35.Is there government provides any subsidy to install new technical methods for

weaving?

a) Yes. b) No 36.I think the power loom is more profitable than the handloom , is it true?

b) Yes b) No. ( Explain ) 37.Is the power loom require any special skill to weave?

a) Yes.b) No If No 38. Then why you still follow the traditional mode of weaving?

a) lack of awareness in other jobs. b) Don't know how to operate power loom

c) It is our traditional job

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