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Traditional Handloom Weavers of Balaramapuram: Problems and Challenges

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Traditional Handloom Weavers of Balaramapuram: Problems and Challenges TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM WEAVERS OF BALARAMAPURAM: PROBLEMS AND CHALLENGES MA SOCIOLOGY i | P a g e TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES ABSTRACT CHAPTERS TITLE PAGE NUMBER I INTRODUCTION 1-12 II LITERATURE REVIEW 13-29 III METHODOLOGY 30-32 IV ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION 33-44 V FINDINGS, CONCLUSION AND 45-51 SUGGESTIONS BIBLIOGRAPHY 52-56 APPENDIX-I 57-60 INTERVIEW SCHEDULE ii | P a g e LIST OF TABLES FIGURE PAGE TITLE OF THE TABLE NO: NUMBER 4.1 Age group of the respondents 34 4.2 Gender 34 4.3 Education of the Weavers 35 4.4 Source of Income of Weavers 35 4.5 Level of income of Weavers 36 4.6 Lives in 36 4.7 Accessibility of bonus 37 4.8 Wages 37 4.9 Parallel job 37 4.10 Health problems 38 4.11 Bases of income 38 4.12 Number of weavers who weave designer saree 39 4.13 Difficulties 39 4.14 Availability of extra wages 39 4.15 Awareness of marketing trends 40 4.16 Problems due to lack of technological upgradation 40 4.17 Courses 41 4.18 Techniques to improve the demand 41 iii | P a g e 4.19 Measures taken by the government 42 4.20 Demand of product 42 4.21 Government initiative for install machines 43 4.22 Measurement of profit 43 4.23 Is the powerloom require any skill 44 4.24 Why still follow the traditional mode of weaving 44 iv | P a g e ABSTRACT The present study is titled as Traditional handloom weavers of Balaramapuram: Problems and Challenges. The study focuses on the various socio economic challenges faced by the traditional handloom weavers of kottukalkkonam handloom industry at Balaramapuram panchayat. The study was quantitative in nature and collected data using interview schedule. Handloom sector is a major traditional industry. But now it is in the edge of its extinction mainly due to the invasion of power loom. The problem faced by the handloom industry affect the life of weavers. As a part of it the traditional Weavers also faces problems and challenges. They faced various socio-economic and physical problems and challenges. The Weavers get wages and bonus on time but it is not sufficient to maintain the economic balance. So they seek other jobs parallel to it. Majority of the members are women in this study who are engaged in weaving. And the male members in the family do not only involve in weaving they also goes to other jobs which have more income. So, this study reveals that majority of the family are not only depending on the handloom. But a small proportion of people still completely depending on handloom. The handloom industry is now on the edge of its decline. But in market the handloom product still have highest demand. Due to the lack of sufficient income the Weavers and the youngsters are hesitant to join this industry thus so many handloom units were closed so, there is no sufficient production processing even if the demand is high. Another challenge faced by this industry is that the invasion of power loom products in the name of balaramapuram kaithari. In this case the customers are not able to identify the real handloom product. The sellers also encourage to the power loom product. So it is the main problem affecting the Industry. The handloom product has high quality than the power loom. It is what the factor which attract the people to the handloom product. But the customers do not have the ability to identify what is handloom and what is power loom. It only can be identified by the weavers . It is the major challenge what the industry faces in modern times. From the present study it is concluded that Handloom weavers in Balaramapuram are mostly traditional weavers and they are in a pitiable condition, owing to poor socio-economic condition. However various unfavourable factors lead to decline on the aspect of socio-economic conditions. Majority of them are wage weavers working for more than 8 hours. v | P a g e CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Indian Handloom Industry is an ancient cottage industry of India with a decentralized set up. This industry is a source of livelihood for millions of people and contributes a major part towards employment. The tradition of making handicrafts and weaving by hand constitutes one of the richest and vibrant aspects of the Indian cultural heritage. This sector is one of the largest unorganized sector after agriculture having being an advantages of less capital intensive, minimal use of power, eco-friendly, adaptability to market requirements etc. But at the same time, this industry is facing multifarious problems that some other industries did not face. The government of India also acting toward the development and improvement of its productivity and marketing, still weavers are facing livelihood crisis. So that it is the need of the today to identify the problems as well as the strengths and weaknesses of handloom industry to make it profitable (Jain, 2017) What is Handloom? Handloom refers to wooden frames of different types which are used by skilled artisans to weave fabrics usually from natural fibers like Cotton, Silk, Wool, Jute etc. It is a cottage industry where the entire family is involved in the production of cloth. Right from spinning the yarn, coloring, to weaving on the loom is done by them. Fabric produced from these looms is also referred to as Handloom. Tools required for this entire process are made from wood, sometimes bamboo and they do not require any electricity to run them. The entire process of fabric production was totally manual in earlier times. Thus this is the most eco-friendly way of producing clothes (Kohli 2019). History of Handloom – Early Days Indian Handloom dates back to the Indus valley civilization. Even in ancient times, Indian fabrics were exported to Rome, Egypt and China. In earlier times, almost every village had its own weavers who made all the clothing requirements needed by the villagers like sarees, dhotis, etc. Some areas where it is cold in 1 | P a g e winter there were specific wool weaving centers. But everything was Hand-Spun and Hand- Woven. Traditionally, the entire process of cloth making was self-reliant. The cotton / silk / wool came from the farmers, foresters or shepherds, and the cotton was cleaned and transformed by weavers themselves or agricultural labour community. Small handy instruments were used in the process, including the famous spinning wheel (also known as Charkha), mostly by women. This hand spun yarn was later made into cloth on the handloom by the weavers. http://www.chinmayaupahar.in/blog/handloom/. Decline of Handloom During British rule, India was turned into an exporter of raw cotton and the country was flooded with machine made imported yarn. To increase consumption of this yarn, British authorities resorted to violence and coercion. Summarily, this resulted in a complete loss of livelihoods first for the spinners, and dependence of handloom weavers on machine yarn. When yarn came from a distance and had to be bought, yarn dealers and financiers became necessary. And as the average weaver had little credit, the industry fell more and more into the grip of middlemen. Thus the independence of most weavers disappeared, and a great majority of them came to work for a trader on contract/ wage basis. Despite this Indian handloom sustained itself, until World War 1 when imported machine made clothes flooded the Indian Market. The beginning of Power looms in the 1920’s, and the consolidation of the mills and the high cost of yarn, made an unfair competition that led to the decline of Handloom. Revival of Handloom Mahatama Gandhi started the Swadeshi Movement and reintroduced hand spinning in the name of Khadi which essentially means hand spun and hand woven. Every Indian was urged to spin the yarn using Charkhas and wear Khadi. This led to the closure of the Mills in Manchester and huge turning point in the Indian independence movement. People burnt imported clothes and chose to wear Khadi. 2 | P a g e Handloom – Post Independence Post Independence, textile mills and spinning mills continued to function in India. Today, there are many weaving styles that use machine spun yarn and these fabrics are referred to as Handloom. And fabrics made from Handspun yarn are called Khadi fabrics. Though the textile and spinning mills continued in Independent India, handloom / khadi were given a lot of protection from unfair competition. Thus the fabric was widely used and affordable for everyone. Current Scenario Since 1985, and especially post 90’s liberalisation, handloom sector had to face competition from cheap imports, and design imitations from power looms. In addition government funding and policy protection also declined drastically. Also the cost of natural fiber yarn has increased tremendously. In comparison to artificial fiber, the cost of natural fabric has gone up. This makes it unaffordable for the common people. But the wages of handloom weavers have remained frozen for the past decade or two. Unable to compete with cheaper poly-mixed fabrics, many weavers are quitting weaving and going for unskilled labour work. And many have been reduced to extreme poverty. Traditional wear in India has lost its significance slowly with the advent of low cost and eye catchy synthetic materials. However, with the notion of ‘Make in India’ campaign and the planning commission giving it a due place in the economic sector under other priority sectors is regaining its unique identity. USA, UK, Germany and France are among the top ten countries to where the Indian handloom products exported.
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