STEVE FLORIO DEAD AT 58/3 BEAUTY TAPS INTO SOCIAL SCENE/8 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • December 28, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Flower Power Through a partnership with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, fragrance marketer Bond No. 9 is introducing its second Warhol-inspired fragrance, dubbed Andy Warhol Union Square. The scent, which is available in a collection of 10 bottles, each featuring a design based on Warhol’s “Flowers,” is set to launch in March and industry sources expect it to generate up to $5 million in fi rst-year wholesale sales volume. For more, see page 6.

Dialing a New Market: Fashion Designers Set To Invade Cell Phones By Katya Foreman rrrrring, brrrrring. B Cell phone companies are the latest sector calling on fashion designers. Label it a triumph of form over function — or part of the continuing push to extend their reach — but designers are increasingly being tapped to create their own phones. The Apple iPhone is proof of the growing demand for stylish handsets from known brands, becoming one of the hottest sellers of the holiday season even as apparel sales — including those of designer labels — lagged. The mobile phone industry is the biggest consumer See Fashion, Page 13 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 WWD.COM Economic, Consumer Data Pour In By Vicki M. Young incomes to rise in the months gift cards are redeemed after and Liza Casabona ahead fell to 19 percent from Christmas through the end of 19.4 percent. January, Niemira said. That WWDFRIDAY In addition, consumers who number could increase this year. Beauty NEW YORK — Wall Street head- expect business conditions to Initially strong results in ed south on Thursday due to worsen in the next six months fell November surprised the indus- economic concerns in the U.S. to 14.1 percent from 16.6 percent. try, but the season was heavily GENERAL Whether it’s a triumph of form over function or the push to extend their and fears of global instability in Those who anticipate business promotional as it ran its course, Pakistan, where many apparel conditions to improve rose to 13.8 he said. 1 reach, designers are being tapped to create their own phones. goods are produced, following percent from 12.4 percent. Since the beginning of the U.S. economic concerns and fear of instability in Pakistan following the the assassination of opposition Separately, as fi nal numbers year, ICSC had said that there 2 assassination of Benazir Bhutto sent stocks south on Thursday. leader and former prime minis- start to come in, the holiday was a pronounced and consis- ter Benazir Bhutto. season looks like it will be only tent decline in the pace of con- BEAUTY: With her latest Andy Warhol-inspired fragrance, Bond No. 9 Bhutto’s assassination at moderately successful. sumer spending. Starting last 6 founder Laurice Rahme is trying to turn niche marketing into an art form. a political rally outside of That was the conclusion winter, chain store numbers Groupe Clarins’ newest line of moisturizers, HydraQuench Multi-Climate, Islamabad raised concerns of of Michael Niemira, chief showed a decline, which contin- 6 is meant to suit and soothe any face anywhere on earth. unrest abroad, sending inves- economist and director of re- ued all year and into the holiday tors fl eeing from equities to the Color cosmetics and skin care brand Lorac, founded by makeup artist safety of U.S. Treasuries. 7 Carol Shaw in 1995, plans to more than double its distribution next year. Domestically, the government Spurred by the enduring “It” bag trend, a growing number of fi ne jewelers said durable goods orders rose by 12 are extending their brands and glitzy heritage to leather goods. 0.1 percent last month, far lower than the 2.2 percent gain econo- DESIGN: True to its name, rapid manufacturing, which involves layering mists had expected. In addition, 14 material to make objects, is quickly altering the face of design. the number of workers seeking WWD will not publish on Monday, Dec. 31 and Tuesday, Jan. 1 unemployment benefi ts rose last in observance of the New Year’s holiday. week to 349,000 instead of an ex- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 pected decline to 340,000. At the end of the trading ses- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. sion, the Dow Jones industrial [email protected], using the individual’s name. average skidded by 1.42 percent, or 192.08 points, to 13,359.61. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT The S&P retail index slid by just ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. under 1 percent to 410.23. VOLUME 194, NO. 134. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one One semi bright spot on the do- additional issue in January and December, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October and, November, and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance mestic economic front, although Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by the jobs picture was mixed, was Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive consumer confi dence. Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Consumers were in a slight- Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail ly better mood in December, The scene at Tampa’s International Plaza on Wednesday. Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return sending The Conference Board undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Consumer Confidence Index search, International Council season, Niemira said. 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE higher during the critical retail of Shopping Centers, who spoke “The consumer clearly pulled INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit holiday selling period. Thursday on a conference call back this year; the holiday sea- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new The overall Index climbed hosted by Dana Telsey of the son performance is pretty much subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production to 88.6 from 87.8 in November. Telsey Advisory Group just an extension of the same correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other While the Present Situation A slowdown in consumer trend,” he said. Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Index component dropped to spending, a continued shift toward Not everything was dismal available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. 108.3 from 115.7 last month, the gift cards as a preferred option, during the holidays, though. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Expectations Index rose to 75.5 discounting, growing concerns Income levels have been better 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, than other economic indicators, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED which helped offset some of the I think it was a moderately happy MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR drag from factors like higher CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR “holiday. Essentially our view is the trends energy costs, Niemira said. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY The perceived sales strength A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. that we see continue to paint a picture of in November was due in part to that, combined with pent-up de- a moderate performance for the season. mand, he added. The boost was temporary, as the remainder of — Michael Niemira, International Council of Shopping Centers” the holiday season did not sus- Quote of the Week tain those results, but it explains the perceived strength, he noted. in December from 69.1. over a possible recession and Discounting occurred across “The consumer is a big winner. “This month’s slight gain in other factors combined to keep the board through the holiday confi dence was due solely to an holiday results mild, he noted. season, Niemira said, but the They’re getting incredible values. That increase in the Expectations ICSC still forecasts a gain apparel sector in particular Index,” said Lynn Franco, di- for same-store sales in the struggled due to more long- will continue into ’08, particularly the rector of The Conference Board November-December period of range factors. Consumer Research Center. 2.5 percent, Niemira said. “Apparel has been losing fi rst quarter.” She noted consumers’ short- “I think it was a moderately market share as a gift, so it’s term outlook regarding business happy holiday,” said Niemira. working against some long-term — Arnie Orlick, ceo of Fortunoff, on the holiday season. conditions, employment, infl ation “Essentially our view is the trends,” he said. and stock prices improved mar- trends that we see continue to In looking at results from the ginally, while they were less neg- paint a picture of a moderate holiday season, Niemira said, it is ative about the near-term future. performance for the season.” important to note where consum- However, Franco also pointed out Previously ICSC said that ers’ holiday dollars are moving. that persistent declines in the weekly chain store sales in- Consumer surveys indicate that In Brief Present Situation Index indicate creased 2.8 percent in the more is being spent on services. the economy is still losing mo- week ended Dec. 22. Anecdotal The electronics sphere has ● SOME DELAYS AT WAL-MART: Wal-Mart Stores Inc. said mentum. And this month’s report evidence suggests there were also been picking up share, defy- Thursday that it has corrected the problem in connection now has pessimists outnumber- strong sales over the weekend ing general trends for the season, with the processing of gift cards. The discounter said that on ing optimists in their assessment prior to Christmas as well, but Niemira said. By comparison, Wednesday it “discovered that several retailers, including Wal- of the current job market. final numbers aren’t in yet. general merchandise, apparel, Mart, were experiencing sporadic issues with gift card verifi- Overall, the jobs front was a Going into the weekend, sales furniture and other similar cations due to processing errors with our third-party verifier’s mixed picture. Consumers who were expected to account for 9 products have all declined as a systems.” This delayed the processing of a “small percentage” said jobs are “hard to get” rose percent of total holiday season share of total consumer dollars of the retailer’s gift card transactions, and the issue was re- to 23.5 percent from 21.4 per- sales, Niemira said. spent during the season. solved Wednesday afternoon, Wal-Mart said. cent, while those claiming jobs However, the sales over the The continued popularity of are “plentiful” declined to 22.7 weekend on their own prob- gift cards impacted holiday re- percent from 23.3 percent in ably weren’t strong enough to sults. Gift cards reached a re- November. Yet the future short- soothe fears about holiday re- cord 18 percent share of holiday WWD. COM term jobs outlook was brighter. sults, he said. spending last year, and Niemira The percentage of consumers Gift card redemptions, which said this year the cards are ex- who said they expect more jobs start mostly after the holidays pected to claim between 18 and Must Read in the months ahead inched up and continue through January, 20 percent of holiday sales. Final Get Women’s Wear Daily anywhere, anytime. A new issue is available to 11.2 percent from 10.6 per- could also alter the fi nal picture results won’t be available until at 12:01 AM EST. For more information, visit wwd.com. cent. Still, the proportion of for the year. Typically consumer after January, when consumers consumers who expect their surveys show that 30 percent of typically redeem the cards. WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 3

Obituary WWD.COM Steven T. Florio, Former Condé Nast CEO By Irin Carmon Tina Brown recalled working with Florio awareness. I went there with Ralph, and would take potshots, and it came with the in the early days. “We had so much fun; as we were walking into the White House, territory for him.” NEW YORK — Steven T. Florio, former we laughed all the way,” she said. “He and the fi rst lady was walking toward us, Carey said Florio taught his team chief executive officer of Condé Nast brought enormous buoyancy to the offi ce I looked at him and I said, ‘Jesus, it’s a “about the art of publishing more than Publications Inc., died Thursday due to and knew how to keep spirits up in the long way from Queens.’ And he looked just the science of it….He was a tireless complications from a heart attack. He bad times.” at me and said, ‘It’s a long way from the champion for the magazine medium. He was 58. Vanity Fair editor in chief Graydon Bronx, too, but we’re here.’” believed very much that clients wanted Florio was hospitalized several weeks Carter struck a similar note. “Steve was But throughout his tenure, he had his their media partners to help them think ago and had a history of heart problems. very much an editor’s publisher. He re- share of detractors, many of whom were big, and I think he instilled in all his ex- He had surgery to replace a faulty valve alized that good journalism and good rivals. In 1998, Fortune magazine pub- ecutives the thought that there’s no idea in 1999 and a second surgery a few years magazines produced good profi ts,” he lished a scathing profi le of Florio that that’s too crazy or outlandish, that almost later to correct a manufacturer’s anything was possible.” defect on the replacement valve. He was praised by people who Condé Nast chairman S. I. worked for him as a mentor and Newhouse Jr. said in a statement, an identifi er of talent, as seen in “Steve was a great executive and the number of current high-level a great leader. I am very glad that executives at the company whom we had many years together.” Florio hired. Credited with growing Condé “He believed in me before I Nast and shaping its culture as believed in myself,” said Richard a personality-driven star system, Beckman, recalling the day, 22 Florio stepped aside as ceo in years ago, when Florio inter- January 2004, but remained under viewed him for a position in the contract as vice chairman until London sales offi ce of The New last January. After relinquishing Yorker. “The interview lasted the ceo title, he served as adjunct about two-and-a-half hours, and professor at New York University as he walked me to the door and in the entertainment, media and put his arm around me, he told technology program, and was an me that one day I’d be the pub- investor in Tutto Il Giorno, a res- lisher of Vogue.” taurant in Sag Harbor, N.Y. Florio kept his promise, 13 Florio’s two children, Kelly years later. “I think I probably and Steven John, still work in reminded him of it 10 times business capacities at Condé a day up to that point,” joked Nast, and his brother, Tom, is the Beckman. publisher of Vogue. He also is “He was smart, he understood survived by his mother, Sophie; people and their motivations, his wife, Mariann, and another he was creative and ambitious brother, Michael. and literally unmatched in his The family will be receiving optimism and confi dence,” said visitors at the Frank Campbell Condé Nast group president Funeral Home at 1076 Madison Mitchell Fox. Avenue on Sunday from 2 to When he stepped down as ceo 4 p.m. and from 7 to 9 p.m. in 2004, Florio said he wanted Funeral services will be held to lead a less hectic lifestyle. Monday at St. Ignatius Church Health problems were believed at 980 Park Avenue. to play a role, and the vice chair- The phrase “larger than life” man’s position was seen by many came up in nearly every recol- as largely symbolic. lection of Florio. He returned to the headlines “Steve’s whole being and in 2005, when WWD reported identity was wrapped up in his that he was circulating a book job at Condé Nast, and I think he proposal full of sharp words was pretty aware that his person- for his former colleagues. In it, ality — big, colorful, swaggering Florio referred to himself as “the in a kind of primary colors way Godfather, the Samurai, the lead- — was his most vivid asset as an er, the Warrior,” and described executive and as a salesman,” himself as “not short on nerve or said New Yorker editor in chief ego, and I carried a heavy chip on David Remnick. my shoulder. They’ll bury me with “He was a consummate super- it, too. I was still Steve Florio. I salesman from the fi rst day that I was there to get the job done.” met him,” said Chuck Townsend, But he later canceled the who succeeded Florio as ceo and project, telling The New York with whom he shared a great love Times: “I would never sacrifi ce of sailing and membership in the my integrity to write a book.” New York Yacht Club. His legacy at a company that Many saw Florio as the ex- has grown exponentially with emplar of a bygone era at media more magazines, Web proper- companies. “It was a smaller ties and other publications (in- world,” said Vogue editor in chief cluding WWD) can also be seen Anna Wintour. “It was much less through the prism of how much it involved in the Internet. The com- has changed since his tenure. pany wasn’t as large as it is now, Steve was very much an editor’s publisher. He realized that “He was the last of a breed, in and he ran it based on relation- “ a sense,” said Beckman. “He was ships he had. It was more like an good journalism and good magazines produced good profi ts. the perfect person to create, above old boys’ network.” — Graydon Carter” all, a personality for the company. She added, “People liked him In the beginning, I think we had so much because he was respect- a presence greater than our scale, ful and in awe of people’s creativity.” said. “Inasmuch as it seemed he could accused him of running a company with and I think he did that.” Florio was born at Jamaica Hospital talk the birds out of the trees, I can below-average profi t margins built large- Since succeeding Florio, Townsend in Queens and raised on Long Island. only imagine his powers of persuasion ly on buzz and image. The article got per- has been credited with establishing more After graduating from NYU’s business as a publisher.” sonal, claiming that “even his supporters business discipline at Condé Nast. school in 1972, he began his career at He became president of Condé Nast acknowledge that in Florio’s hands, truth Said Townsend: “The company was Esquire, where he rose to the position Publications in January 1994, and added is a fungible commodity.” younger and less complicated and didn’t of vice president/advertising director. the ceo title two years later, overseeing On Friday, friends and former em- have the pressures it has on it today…. He went on to serve as publisher of all of the company’s then 18 titles. ployees either declined to comment This is not the roaring Nineties. This is a GQ and, in 1985, when The New Yorker Florio often cast his rise to head one on the criticisms or attributed them to much more sober and complicated time was purchased by Condé Nast parent of the world’s leading magazine pub- competitive agendas. “You had a lot of in business.” Advance Publications, he took over at lishers as an example of the American folks on the outside who compete with “It’s really hard for me to know if the magazine as president. Three years dream. In 1995, he told Interview maga- Condé Nast who weren’t going to go out Steve was perfectly suited for the times later, he was given the title of ceo of The zine, “I was invited to the White House of their way to make it easy for him,” in which he worked, or whether he New Yorker. recently as part of a group that Ralph said Portfolio publisher and Condé Nast helped defi ne those times,” said Fox. Former New Yorker editor in chief Lauren put together for breast cancer group publisher David Carey. “Others “And I would strongly suggest the latter.”

6 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 The Beauty Report Bond No. 9 Expands Warhol Fragrance Collection

ith her latest Andy Warhol-inspired fragrance, Bond No. 9 founder Laurice back: “My favorite smell is the fi rst smell of spring in New York,” as well as the Bond WRahme is trying to turn niche marketing into an art form. logo. Launching in time for Mother’s Day, the 36-inch necklace will be available with Rahme plans to launch Andy Warhol Union Square, a fragrance sporting a bottle a 100-ml. bottle of the fragrance for $575. Not yet determined is how prominent a decorated with 10 variations of a famous “Flowers” series, done by the pop artist in role jewelry will play in future Bond No. 9 projects. the Seventies. The fragrances are being offered in a variety of 10 different bottles, “It’s a way to lift the brand with artistry in a way that satisfi es customers,” said each with a slightly different version of the fl ower print based on original silk screens Rahme, who sees jewelry as a quickly growing business. of the “Flowers” print. For avid collectors and hard-core Warhol fanatics, the com- The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, located on Bleecker Street in plete portfolio of 10 100-ml. bottles will be offered in a box for $1,500. For those con- the only building designed by Louis Sullivan in New York, foundation executives sumers on a budget, they can buy one bottle featuring a representative version noted, hopes the long-term partnership with Bond No. 9 presents an oppor- of the fl ower print for $195 for a 100-ml. bottle and $135 for a 50-ml. one tunity to strengthen what the foundation stands for. The Warhol Foundation This second fragrance in a series of 12 Warhol projects follows the launch of previously dabbled briefl y in the fragrance business in the late Nineties with Bond No. 9’s fi rst Warhol fragrance dubbed Silver Factory, which launched Cofi nluxe, who acquired the license for Andy Warhol Perfumes in 1998. earlier this month. For Rahme, various New York locales, as well as Warhol “We wanted to work with a company that was creative and artistic, designs, go hand in hand. but what attracted us to Bond No. 9 was that it challenged the fra- “It’s not just about the art on the packaging, but it’s about taking the grance industry to do things differently,” said Michael Hermann, neighborhoods and places associated with Warhol and connecting it to his director of licensing at the Warhol Foundation, who has been with art,” said Rahme. the foundation for more than a dozen years. “The partnership with Much like Warhol, who was known for breaking down the boundaries them was synergistic since we’re both all about New York City. It between art and commerce, Rahme has continuously challenged the made sense for a New York artist to be with a New York-centric fragrance business with her unconventional methods. After building fragrance company.” a fragrance business by naming her scents after New York neighbor- Started in 1987, the nonprofi t foundation has given out more than hoods, Rahme has increasingly looked beyond traditional methods $200 million in grants — both through cash and art. According to into the art and retail worlds to generate new ideas. This past Hermann, this year the organization will donate $11 million to fall, Bond No. 9 broke ground by partnering with specialty retailer other art organizations through art sales, investments and endow- Saks Fifth Avenue to create an exclusive fragrance tailored to the ments. Last year, Warhol’s licenses generated more than $2 million. retail chain. Previous partnerships include Burton snowboard apparel, Levi’s, The Andy Warhol Union Square scent will be launched in March Seiko and Royal Elastics footwear by Gwen Stefani. in the U.S. at Bond No. 9 boutiques, Saks Fifth Avenue and mu- To celebrate the launch of Silver Factory earlier this seum gift shops. It will then be rolled out to 20 different month, an olfactory ode to the pop artist’s foil-papered and markets a month later, including retailers Harrods, Harvey silver-painted work and play space, Bond No. 9 cohosted Nichols and Selfridges in the U.K. Bond No. 9 doubled its a VIP shopping party with W magazine, a sister publica- global distribution over the past year from 10 markets, tion of WWD, and crammed over 400 guests into the and plans to launch the brand in additional markets NoHo-based perfumery’s fl agship. Silver Factory is next year. served up in Bond No. 9’s signature star-shaped bottle Andy Warhol Union Square by Bond No. 9 is a fl oral emblazoned with a graphic inspired by Warhol’s famous fragrance with a musk and spicy twist. Created by Stephen “Campbell’s Soup Can.” Nilsen of Givaudan, Andy Warhol Union Square is com- Warhol Superstars and friends, along with celebrities posed of top notes of lily of the valley and green stem; who were on hand at the launch — including Geraldine middle notes of sweet blue freesia and white birch Smith, Robert Heide, Ivy Nicholson and Robert Lee wood, and bottom notes of amber and silver-cloud Morris — agreed that Warhol himself would have musk accords. approved of the fragrance. Said Heide: “He would According to industry sources, Union Square have loved the scent — and the attention.” could generate up to $5 million in fi rst-year Silver Factory “serves the dual purpose of wholesale sales volume. introducing the artist to a broader audience As part of the Andy Warhol Union Square fra- while generating funds to benefi t The Andy grance launch, Bond No. 9 has partnered with an- Warhol Museum,” said Hermann. A portion of other of Warhol’s licensees, Robert Lee Morris, the sales from the evening were donated to the to create 400 limited edition Warhol-inspired The Andy Warhol Union Andy Warhol Museum located in Pittsburgh. sterling silver Flowers necklaces. The jewelry Square fragrance collection. — Michelle Edgar, with contributions will feature a Warhol quote engraved on the from Jennifer Laing Clarins Treatment Line Tailored for Skin Type, Climate PARIS — Groupe Clarins’ newest line of moisturizers, HydraQuench Multi-Climate, meant for the exact demographic its name suggests. That is thanks to a pomegran- is meant to suit any face anywhere on earth. ate extract included to help skin combat heat by tightening dilated pores, Clarins That’s because the fi ve creams and lotions in the collection, due out worldwide said. Meanwhile, for colder climes, HydraQuench Rich Cream Very Dry Skin or in January, are blended to allow people to chose formulations adapted to their Cold Climates contains an extract of Arctic cloudberry, a fruit found in Finland, type of skin or local climate, according to company executives. which Clarins said acts as a sort of antifreeze for skin due to its nourishing essen- “[The line] takes into account skin type — normal, combination, dry and very tial fatty acids. dry — and surrounding climate — hot, cold and temperate,” The line also contains a product deemed as emergency re- explained Stella Wong, marketing director of Clarins France. pair for dehydrated skin in any climate. HydraQuench Intensive “It’s like the clothes you wear according to the climate you HydraQuench Serum Bi-Phase Dehydrated Skin contains oil from the Inca pea- are in,” added Brigitte Decaux, Clarins’ international market- items from nut to rebuild skin’s barrier against moisture loss plus an extract ing manager. Clarins. of alfalfa grass, deemed to boost collagen production, according HydraQuench is Clarins’ key treatment launch for 2008, ac- to the company. cording to the company. While its executives declined to reveal HydraQuench products come in a range of textures, including revenue targets, industry sources estimate HydraQuench will creams, cream-gels and lotions. generate fi rst-year retail sales of $60 million. Product prices range from 49.50 euros, or $71.20 at average ex- With moisturizing as its key claim, HydraQuench has a broad change, for a 50-ml. jar of HydraQuench Rich Cream for Normal target base, company executives said. to Dry Skin to 57 euros, or $82, for a 30-ml. bottle of HydraQuench “Everyone needs hydration,” said Wong, adding the line Intensive Serum Bi-Phase Dehydrated Skin. complements other Clarins face care products, which target Single- and double-page advertising, showing a model re- specifi c concerns, such as wrinkles. laxing in water and the HydraQuench products, will break in For HydraQuench’s formulas, Clarins sourced ingredients February magazines. it claims are rarely used in cosmetics, including katafray bark, Also in the realm of products for more on-the-go use is said to boost skin’s moisturizing mechanisms by increasing the Clarins’ Body Shaping Supplement, due out Jan. 1 in the U.S. and production of fi llagrin, a protein. In Madagascar, where it is February elsewhere. It contains the same ingredients as the com- sourced under Clarins’ fair trade program, katafray is used as pany’s best-selling Clarins Body Lift Minceur slimming product, an anti-infl ammatory and a face mask. but has been reformulated so it may be added easily and effec- Clarins also developed a complex from wheat containing tively to any of the fi rm’s other products — from creams to lotions two forms of hyaluronic acid, which forms a fi lm on skin to lock to gels, according to company executives. While they would not moisture in, according to the company. Sorbier tree extract is talk numbers, industry sources estimate the product will ring up said to regulate the size of blood capillaries, which are par- $10 million at wholesale in its fi rst year worldwide. Each pair of ticularly sensitive to climate change. Clarins’ E3P complex is 25-ml. Body Shaping Supplement bottles will sell for $75. included to protect skin from electromagnetic waves and pollution, according to In retail news, Clarins opened its fi rst European freestanding store — a retail company executives. environment including treatment rooms — in Paris, called Boutique Clarins. The While the formulas for the fi ve moisturizers are largely the same, each was 1,500-square-foot space opened in October. Industry sources estimate it generates adapted for a skin type and most to a particular environment. The HydraQuench $44,000 a month. Cooling Cream-Gel Normal to Combination Skin or Hot Climates, for example, is — Ellen Groves, with contributions from Jennifer Weil BOND PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE BOND PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 7

WWD.COM Architecture Influential Lorac Doubling Distribution he indie spirit continues to grow at events and photo shoots — the brand will In Brow Expert’s Work TLorac. release what it is touting as the fastest The color cosmetics and skin care runway-to-reality makeup ever, the Best rom art and architecture to Times Square and a second on brand, founded by celebrity makeup art- Dressed Palette. The bejeweled $37 com- Feyebrows? It’s not the most Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. She is ist Carol Shaw in 1995, plans to more than pact contains six neutral eye shadows common of career switches by any planning to open a freestanding double its distribution next year, thanks and a rose-bronze blush. Shaw said she stretch of the imagination, but it Brow Studio in Manhattan next to two recently inked initiatives. The fi rst plans to use the palette on celebrity cli- works for Anastasia Soare. year — one is already operating in will take Lorac into 290 Ulta doors na- ents for the 2008 Academy Awards. It will “Studying technical design and Beverly Hills — and has her eye on tionwide in March. The brand currently be available at retail the next day, as an art gave me the ability to see things a slew of additional freestanding is available in 185 freestanding Sephora exclusive for Sephora. in 3-D,” said the Los Angeles-based Brow Studio locations domestically doors, 47 of the Sephora/J.C. Penney joint “The whole idea was to bring that im- brow expert. “Back then, we didn’t and internationally. “We are very stores, sephora.com and 16 independent mediacy of the awards shows to the con- have computers — we fi gured things bullish about expanding for next cosmetics boutiques. Lorac is also giving sumers while they were still excited about with pencils. Once I became an aes- year,” she said. its Web site, loraccosmetics.com, a face- the looks,” explained Shaw. “Plus, with thetician, I took that knowledge and Globally, Soare’s products can be lift in January. the shimmery neutral eye shadows, and studied the bone structure of every found in Canada, Japan — where “The Ulta deal allows us to reach a gold-accented packaging, it’s also very ethnic group. It has helped me to 10 Brow Studios are in opera- new and different consumer,” said Shaw. much on trend.” fi nd the perfect shape for anyone’s tion — Finland, Holland, Sweden, “It also gives Lorac additional sources Also coming for spring 2008: bone structure.” Denmark, Belgium, Greece, Slovenia of revenue and expanded promotional Breakthrough Performance Foundation, Born and raised in Romania, opportunities. It is helping to transition an oil-free, antiaging foundation, $38; Soare earned a degree from Anastasia from being an entrepreneurial company Visual Effects Mascara, intended to curl, the Romania College of Soare to a bigger business.” separate and lengthen lashes, $19.50, and Architecture. But after taking Shaw gives Barry Alan, Lorac’s se- On Screen Duo, a compact powder high- time off to be with her husband nior vice president and chief operating lighter and cream eye shadow team, $24. and newborn daughter, she offi cer (and, incidentally, her brother), Shaw said she is particularly proud of found it challenging to fi nd work and David Hirsch, an attorney with the foundation, which is powered by the in that fi eld. Switching gears, an MBA who does “everything from brand’s proprietary SMS Complex: “This she enrolled in cosmetology legal work to product development,” in complex works on the ‘second messen- school, earning an aesthetician’s Shaw’s words, much of the credit for the gers,’ which stimulate and amplify the license — which fueled her pas- brand’s growth trajectory. molecules that enhance the skin’s natu- sion for brows and products. “My intention, when I started Lorac, ral intercellular activity, leading to im- “Keep in mind that this was was to have a makeup line I could sell at proved cell turnover.” It will be available Romania in the Communist Fred Segal in L.A.,” said Shaw. “Being a in seven shades. era,” said Soare. “We would working makeup artist and someone with While Shaw declined to discuss sales go to the pharmacy and buy in- extremely sensitive skin, I wanted to have projections, industry sources estimated gredients so we could mix up a line that I could use on my clients and that the spring Lorac introductions would products for our aesthetics cli- on myself. I’m lucky to have Barry and add about $5 million in retail sales to the ents. To do that well, I studied Dave — they’re the ones who brought it company’s revenues. a little cosmetic chemistry, and to this level, not me. I love to create prod- Earlier this year, Lorac retrofi tted its that was the genesis of my fi rst ucts and work with celebrities, but they gondolas in all Sephora doors, replac- brow products.” are the business minds. They’ve helped ing wood with black accent units with In 1989, Soare and her me to move from 300 bottles of founda- black and Lucite displays adorned with family emigrated to the U.S., tion in a one-bedroom apartment in West black-and-white editorial images. While where she began working as an Hollywood to owning our own warehouse. gondolas aren’t yet final for the Ulta aesthetician at a small salon That’s when I knew we’d truly made it — doors, Shaw said that “the positioning is on Melrose in L.A. “I didn’t when we bought our fi rst forklift!” the same for Sephora and Ulta, but the speak the language and I didn’t As part of the Red Carpet Authority execution isn’t. Both retailers will have know how to drive on the free- positioning Lorac introduced earlier fi xtures customized for them.” ways,” Soare said with a laugh. this year — a nod to Shaw’s other career, The Web site, when it is relaunched, “I drove everywhere with a making up stars for major Hollywood will be an e-commerce site, noted Shaw. Thomas Brothers [the pre-GPS “We’ll carry the full line, plus old favor- bible of Southern Californians] map and France. She’s in talks to enter ites which might not still be available on my lap!” China, Croatia, Dubai, the U.K., New in-store,” she said. “Gondolas are fi nite In 1992, Soare struck out on her Zealand and Australia, among other selling spaces, but on a Web site, you can own, fi rst renting a small space at markets, and hopes to tap the South have an unlimited range of products — so the Juan Juan Beauty Center in American market as well. A beauty we’ll help out our customers if we can. Beverly Hills and in 1997 signing a school is also on Soare’s to-do list. The timing is right for Lorac to relaunch lease for her own space on Bedford She will also launch several the Web site: We’ve rebranded and have Drive in Beverly Hills. “There were new brow-related products in a great Red Carpet strategy, and it’s time not salon boutiques at that time, to January. Brow Wiz, an $18 me- to tell our new story.” speak of,” said Soare, whose salon chanical brow pencil that will be Lorac also has begun to repackage its has just celebrated its 10th anniver- available in three shades; Brow stockkeeping units in black outer boxes sary. “So after two years, we had to Filler, a new brow color applicator with fl ashbulb imagery on the front and a have our own product line, at least that contains brunette and blonde red velvet rope image on the back — an- for makeup — none of the big pres- powders to give the user custom- other nod to Shaw’s ties with Hollywood. tige companies wanted to sell to blending opportunities, $20, and The repackaging effort will continue small boutiques at that time. And Tweezers Anonymous, a compila- through fall 2008. there were no brow products com- tion of Soare’s products — Brow — J.N. mercially available.” Stix, a stencil kit; Brown Filler, a Today, Soare produces 42 brow- mini duo brush, and NuBrow, a gel related stockkeeping units, as well intended to condition, repair and Above: A new palette and foundation from Lorac. as a makeup line she sells in her restore overplucked brows, $55. Carol Shaw does Susan Sarandon’s lips. Beverly Hills location. A treatment While Soare declined to discuss gel called NuBrow — a serum said sales projections, industry sources to help eyebrow hair regrowth — estimated that the new sku’s could and implements and concealers are add $2 million at retail in their fi rst also part of the mix. Soare plans to year on counter. eventually take the NuBrow fran- All of Soare’s products are being chise into a full treatment line. repackaged — and several products In 2000, Soare’s products entered that were not previously boxed will Nordstrom, followed by Sephora. Her be packaged that way. “We want distribution now includes 400 doors to make it easier for customers to in the U.S., such as Ulta, Sephora reach for us,” she said, adding that and Nordstrom; 80 Nordstrom stores the new packaging “shows what’s include Anastasia Brow Studios, in the box.” where clients can go in for a shaping “I still do eyebrows every day,” performed by a licensed aestheti- said Soare. “Doing that gives me an cian. “We are 62 percent ahead of last advantage — it helps me to refi ne year’s revenues at our Nordstrom my products, and to realize from a Brow Studios,” said Soare. customer perspective what is still Two of Soare’s Brow Studios needed.” operate at Sephora, one in — Julie Naughton 8 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 WWD.COM The Beauty Report WWD.COM Beauty’s Social Engagements

hen Blow Styling Salon opened its doors in These women of infl uence are WManhattan’s Meatpacking District nearly three just the type of consumers high- years ago, socialite-turned-fashion designer Lucy end brands are targeting, espe- Sykes Rellie was an eager customer. cially those selling skin creams A self-described blowout, manicure and pedicure for $500 to $1,000 a jar — which, buff, Sykes Rellie’s interest had been piqued before in some cases, include liquid gold, the salon was fi nished. She remembered that when she diamonds or other gemstones on met Blow’s co-founders, Jennifer Denton and Vigdis their lists of ingredients. Boulton, “They said, ‘We know who you are,’ and I said, In September, to launch its ‘Well, I know who you are.’” 1.7-oz., $650 jar of Crème Royale, Then the idea eventually came up that the three Orlane held a luncheon hosted by might work together. Sykes Rellie and Denton were al- Byrdie Bell, Muffy Flouret, Zani ready (and still are) neighbors in the West Village. And Gugelmann, Olivia Palermo and tapping into the social network of a woman-about-town Carly Steel. Naturally enough, could only help Denton’s fl edgling business. the 400 attendees included many Now, Sykes Rellie is on Blow Styling Salon’s advi- of the hostesses’ friends. sory board. “Socialites are like our royalty “I’m strategically involved with the girls,” she said, in the States,” said Naz Toloui, from “what color the walls should be” to “where they vice president of sales and edu- should be next — L.A.? Downtown? My job is really cation for Orlane. “They expose being a sounding board.” brands to their friends. If she’s Said Denton: “From the beginning, we’ve had a using a cream, everyone wants to tremendous amount of support from Lucy. She sends use that cream.” people in from the fashion and beauty industries. She In the company’s search for an credits us prior to getting photographed. She refer- ambassador, “we are looking at

ences us in interviews.” twentysomethings in New York, CHANCE YEH/PMC CHANTECAILLE BY FARRELL/PMC; BILLY RELLIE BY NEIL RASMUS/PMC; CUOMO PHOTO BY Relationships such as these illustrate a point lux- the Hamptons and Los Angeles,” From left: Lucy Sykes Rellie, ury beauty brands have come to recognize: It’s hard Toloui added, declining to name Cristina Cuomo and Olivia to beat word-of-mouth endorsements by the socially names. “We’re an established line, Chantecaille. prominent. As a result, beauty’s fl irtation with high so- but our clientele is getting young- ciety has turned into an affair. er and younger. They represent the future of Orlane.” eventual launch of a national ad campaign featuring her. While brands such as Darphin, La Mer, Lancôme In an industry that’s celebrity-obsessed, socialites Beauty retailers also are turning to society. Sephora and Chanel have had informal ties to the social set can present an attractive alternative. “Socialites rep- tapped socialite-turned-model Lydia Hearst as the face — “devotees” who frequent lunches, teas, dinners and resent luxury,” said Toloui. of its holiday marketing program. Hearst appeared on parties held by the brands — others have taken the re- “Socialites are tastemakers,” said Beth DiNardo, the cover of the retailer’s holiday catalogue as well as lationship a step further. general manager of Darphin, which launched its on visuals in stores, windows and at sephora.com. For instance, Dior Beauty hired Tinsley Mortimer Arovita C skin care line in May with a luncheon host- When it comes to compensating their socially elite as its U.S. beauty ambassador in the spring (see ed by Ivanka Trump and, in 2004, had Sally Albemarle ambassadors, beauty companies don’t hesitate to pile story, this page). In September, Natura Bissé signed host a series of afternoon teas. “They have exposure to on the products and cover brand-related parties and Cristina Cuomo as its U.S. ambassador. And Orlane the best of the best, so they have infl uence. They can travel expenses. In Dior’s case, an undisclosed fee expects to sign ambassadors in the U.S. and Europe be more meaningful than celebrities. They are the real for Mortimer is slated to go to a charity of her choice. in the near future. users of our products.” Natura Bissé is said to have a year-to-year contract Not to be forgotten is Olivia Chantecaille, whose “We looked at celebrities,” said Patricia Fisas, chief with Cuomo worth less than $50,000 in the fi rst year, omnipresence certainly hasn’t hurt her mother Sylvie’s executive offi cer in the U.S. for Natura Bissé, “but we according to market sources. 10-year-old beauty brand, which has developed a wanted someone with a lifestyle that refl ects all the Executives were mum on naming prime candidates healthy business with Neiman Marcus, Barneys New women who use our products.” The fi rm hopes to make for a beauty deal lest a competitor snap them up. York and Bergdorf Goodman. its relationship with Cuomo a bit more formal with the — Matthew W. Evans

She acknowledged that she is unable to control how she is perceived, or stop the stories that might appear in the tabloids, which she charged are fi lled with Out on the Town With Mortimer inaccuracies and lies. Mortimer — who is married to Topper Mortimer, the great- grandson of an oil tycoon and a descendant of John Jay, the fi rst chief justice insley Mortimer has no concept of the undone look. But even though she rarely of the U.S. Supreme Court — said she has learned to shield herself from media Tsails forth for an evening on the town without the reassuring touch of hair and scrutiny by avoiding certain magazines and blogs. She admits, however, that she makeup stylists, she’s no society windup doll. is fl irting with the idea of a reality TV series with a fashion bent, but no plans are After appearing on the red carpet at a social event in Manhattan, Mortimer in place at the moment. seems more interested in hanging with her friends than working the room to con- Over a recent lunch at Frederick’s, Mortimer said, “Comments scrutinizing my nect with power hitters, always with an eye out for the next photo op. Neither is appearance and the way I dress don’t bother me, but people making up lies is dif- she afraid to try something different and experiment with her look. fi cult. You feel a sense of helplessness when people lie be- During the New Yorkers for Children Gala in the fall, Mortimer Tinsley cause you can’t even really defend yourself. But I guess it’s wanted to try a new look — a departure from her signature loose Mortimer just something that comes along for anyone who’s involved blonde curls and demure pink cheeks and lips. While a hairstylist and visible.” and a makeup artist worked on her simultaneously, Mortimer ad- The trouble is, she pointed out, the media attention tends vised them on every detail — from the length of the black eyeliner to overshadow activities and causes that she feels strongly on her top lid to the blending of her eye shadow shades. about. For instance, she said she frequently recruits spon- “I almost wanted to make myself feel a little uncomfortable,” sors for charity events. She sits on the associates committee confi ded Mortimer. For the sake of change her hair was slicked back for Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center and the Young and pulled around to one side, while darker, more dramatic makeup Friends committee for New Yorkers for Children, while was applied. also acting as one of the chairs for the American Museum of Refl ecting on the change after the event, she said, “Overall I re- Natural History’s Winter Dance. ally liked it, but I defi nitely felt fi dgety and I don’t like feeling that Her biggest gripe is the negative press that portrays her way while I’m out.” as a socialite using the charity circuit to land on the invite Flexible she may be, but she certainly has her standards. In lists of New York’s most exclusive events. addition to being a fi xture of New York Society, the 31-year-old “This frustrates me, because I work hard — from helping blonde moonlights as Dior’s U.S. Beauty Ambassador, attending with sponsorships to raising money and awareness. I pay for cosmetics events on behalf of the company and consulting on its my own tickets, but on occasion I get invited as a guest to sit product lines. at someone’s table,” she said. “For me, Dior is synonymous with luxury,” said Mortimer. “The She has parlayed her high-profi le social calendar into

Dior girl is someone who loves to get dressed up but isn’t afraid to STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY gigs in the fashion and beauty industry. In January 2006, have fun. It felt like a good fi t to me.” she inked a deal to act as a spokesperson and a designer for Mortimer feels comfortable in the role. After all, her fi rst job after graduating from Japanese company Samantha Thavasa, where she has her own line of handbags Columbia University was as an assistant in the beauty department at Vogue. What’s and clothes. She was named Dior’s Beauty Ambassador in May. more, Mortimer’s mother starting giving her “beauty lessons” at a young age. Despite her perfectly polished appearance at fashion shows and black-tie af- “I have a very Southern mother who loved her makeup and would remind me fairs, Mortimer unwinds by walking her two Chihuahuas in Central Park or at- each time I left the house to have my lip gloss on, and she started reminding me tending boxing classes at her Upper East Side gym. What you won’t fi nd her doing when I was in fourth grade,” recalled Mortimer, who was raised in Richmond. is getting a facial or massage, since she indulges in these luxurious treats only “I’m not afraid to dress like a girl with feminine details on my clothing from when traveling on business to Japan or on vacation. ruffl es to poufs and puffy sleeves.” Mortimer, who attends about three events a week, declared, “Believe it or not, Mortimer added, “I might be the girl who’s a little more dressed up, but it I’m very low maintenance with my beauty regimens, although I always get my hair makes me feel more comfortable. I’ve never done effortless chic well. I do better and makeup done when I go to events.” looking very feminine with everything tucked into its place.” — Michelle Edgar WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 9

WWD.COM Spas Seek to Move Beyond Pampering By Georgia Lee KISSIMMEE, Fla. — With growth slowing, the spa in- dustry is shifting focus from pampering the elite to health and wellness for all. To keep loyal devotees, spas are moving beyond basic treatments to more personalized experiences that treat the whole person. Using music, biofeedback, meditation and yoga, spas are not only touting stress relief, but nu- trition, fi tness and how to get a better night’s sleep. By stressing healthy lifestyles, the industry hopes to demystify the spa for the estimated 75 percent of Americans who’ve never visited one. “Spa is no longer just about lotions and potions,” said Jim Root, chairman of the International Spa Association. “Spa is not a place, but a lifestyle of well- ness, aliveness and happiness.” The inclusive tone was refl ected in products, ser- vices, education and speakers at the International Spa Association’s conference, held Nov. 12 to 15 at the Gaylord Palms here, where the event drew more than Exhibitors at the International Spa Association’s conference. 130,000 attendees to view an eclectic mix of products from 280 exhibitors. Over 40 educational and network- leading in social environmental causes,” said exhibitor for Starwood Hotels and Resorts. “People are so time- ing events included keynote speeches by writer Maya Keith West-Harrison, president, Preston Spa Business starved and bombarded with technology. We want ways Angelou, who closed the event. Solutions, in Sante Fe, who represents Yum Gourmet to make them feel better.” “The show has gone beyond skin care and equip- Skin Care, a company that has partnered with organi- Creating an uplifting experience is the lynchpin ment exhibitors to include the softer side, with music, zations such as Care. of Starwood’s new Heavenly Spa brand, open in six clothing and candles,” said Root. Though high-tech West-Harrison said social and global awareness is Westin hotels, and expanding to a dozen others, said equipment is still a part of the show, “it’s now more also revving up interest in indigenous treatments, in- McCarthy. Among other “rituals,” guests are encour- about high-touch,” Root said. ISPA, based in Lexington, cluding Eastern and ayurvedic medicine, herbal rem- aged to symbolically place their cares is “burden bas- Ky., is expanding internationally, with 3,000 members edies and Native American rituals. kets,” before services and treatments. in 76 countries. At ISPA, natural, organic and botanical were the big McCarthy bought eco-friendly robes and spawear In the U.S., the spa industry’s rapid growth of the skin care buzzwords, as exhibitors served up a cornu- in soy and bamboo fi bers from Calispia, and T-shirts past decade has slowed, according to the Spa Industry copia of products with tropical fruits, coffee and tea as with inspirational messages such as “Breathe Deeply.” Study presented during the conference. Total revenues key ingredients. He also considered Sleep Garden’s DVDs that promote of $9.4 billion in 2006 declined from $9.7 billion in 2005. The crossover of fashion in the spa industry was also better sleep. The number of U.S. spas, 14,600, is still rising, but at a evident, not only in the number, but in the changing na- To provide the most personalized experience for slower pace, with medical, resort and destination spas ture, of the clothing and accessories exhibitors at ISPA. guests, Barbara Stirewalt, spa director for The Spa at outpacing the growth in day spas. Anatomie, an active lifestyle brand, bills itself as Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, N.Y., shopped Industrywide, profi ts increased, more attributable “spa chic.” ISPA for “partners, rather than vendors, that will work to price increases than consumer demand, which has “Our customer wants something besides the basic with us for special private label products, services and changed little since doubling from 1999 to 2001. silhouettes and dull colors that have been in the mar- brands,” she said. “We have to eliminate barriers of price and time ket,” said Katlin Boyer, sales director of the Nice, She bought customized colors in mineral cosmetics constraints to be accessible to everybody, and change France-based line that offers fi tted leggings, jackets, exclusively for her spa from La Bella Donna and special- the perception from pampering to staying healthy,” tanks and T-shirts in luxury French and Italian fabrics ly programmed playlists and CDs by Prescriptive Music. said Lynne McNees, president of ISPA. She urged spa that wholesale from $40 to $145. Boyer said she picked She also bought environmentally conscious bamboo owners to consider niche markets, including men, who up 70 accounts at ISPA, from spas who are adding or spa uniforms from Yeah Baby and spawear by Calispia make up 31 percent of U.S. spagoers, as well as teens, expanding clothing in their retail offerings. to sell in the spa. who still offer opportunity. Responding to increasingly “green-minded” con- “Our consumers are extremely concerned with the With recyclable print materials, water coolers rath- sumers, ISPA attendees shopped the exhibit fl oor for green movement, so we’re always careful about recy- er than plastic bottles and other programs, the ISPA natural, eco-friendly skin care, cosmetics and acces- cling, and using products that are environmentally show refl ected a larger trend toward environmental sories that would make their spas stand out. friendly,” she said. concerns, along with exhibitors who had individual “I’m looking for product lines that support the mes- The spa has beefed up meditation, stress relief and green and social initiatives. sage of collective well-being,” said Jeremy McCarthy, antiaging programs, offering many on a year-round “We’ve seen a recent explosion, with this industry director of spa operations development and marketing basis, said Stirewalt. Upcoming Hair Trends Take Center Stage at Wella Event By Barbara Barker Ukraine took second place for a decadent, theatrical cut South Korea won fi rst place at and coordinated makeup. BARCELONA — Several prominent hair trends for 2008 emerged Wella’s International Trend Vision. Thailand’s simple lines and subtle colorations took third at Wella’s fifth International Trend Vision, held Oct. 28 at the place. Catalan capital’s Centre Convencions Internacional Barcelona. “What’s so good about this design is the execution and har- Carlin Int., Wella’s Paris-based research and trend fore- mony of color. It’s quite an interpretation — and such beautiful casting agency, pinpointed four of the most likely trends. One shine,” Dougherty commented. called for the continuation of loose, deconstructed shapes via Wella, the second leading hair care brand in Europe after see-through curl variations, à la supermodel Gisele. Another L’Oréal, was acquired by Procter & Gamble in the spring of followed modernity with one-length, head-hugging cocoon 2003 for $7 billion. Currently, the brand operates 100 studios styles — as opposed to layers — with elaborate color tech- and training centers worldwide reaching 1.6 million hair- niques and lots of shine and smooth texture. Asymmetrical dressers, said P&G’s Kevin Otero, manager, North America, shapes are expected to become more prevalent in 2008, ac- P&G Professional Care. He reported a 2 to 5 percent growth cording to Carlin, and styles that mirror Victoria Beckham’s rate in the color category over the last fi ve years in the North bob are also planned. American market, citing in particular this year’s third quarter, “Next year will be about circles, curvatures and rounded which saw an increase of 27 percent over the same period in shapes,” said Teri Dougherty, creative director of Wella’s Colors 2006. “We think there is an opportunity for much more growth of the World educational initiative. Wella’s Germany-based color to be driven by product innovation,” Otero said. “Asian coun- expert, Klaus Nolte, summed up the basics of next year’s hair tries will be the most important markets down the road, es- color story to “ubershine and blends of high- and lowlights.” pecially China and India. They represent tremendous growth The evening’s award ceremony featured runway presenta- areas.” tions, multicultural dances and a rousing “Parade of Nations” Otero declined to reveal projections for next year “but I with patriotic, Olympic-style fl ag waving. A lively competition for the most cre- will say we’re off to a strong start.” ative interpretation of the German hair care company’s 2007 trends included en- Speakers and Wella executives said the one-day event brought innovative ex- tries from stylists hailing from 53 countries. Ultimately, South Korea won fi rst ecutions and new technical skills and ideas to the hairstyling community, which place for an edgy design based on slight asymmetrical movement and panels of was represented by 2,500 salon-industry professionals and 80 foreign journalists. color including butterscotch and soft, rusty red. “This competition is the only international event where upcoming trends Dougherty, who was one of the competition’s fi ve jurors, praised the style’s and new talent take center stage,” said Robert Jongstra, president of Procter & construction, as well as hair color, which she said “sings.” Gamble Global Professional Care. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007

The HBA Report WWD.COM New Year Brings New Salons

THE DOVE SALON The hair color bar inside The DE BERARDINIS HITS CHELSEA Dove. LANDS IN CALIF. By Andrea Nagel By Rachel Brown he owner of one of the newest salons in Chelsea — and there have been at least half a dozen in the past year — said his will hristopher Dove and Sonya Dove T have staying power, citing loyal clients, a high regard for service and Legendre bypassed ritzy salon haven C the salon’s Upper East Side-meets-Chelsea atmosphere as a formula Beverly Hills in favor of the seaside en- for success. clave of Santa Monica, Calif., to cultivate an Adrian De Berardinis is no stranger to Manhattan’s salon mecca. unpretentious vibe in their first namesake His hairstyling career began fi ve years ago at Chelsea’s thriving U.S. outpost. Antonio Prieto salon, where he rose to creative director and was re- “There is an affluence down here [in sponsible for heading up the salon’s education program, as well as Santa Monica], but there is more of a real management responsibilities. feeling that appealed to us,” said Dove But working for someone else was not a long-term plan, De Legendre. Dove, who has been Dove Berardinis said. His father, mother, uncle and aunt have all been Legendre’s collaborator for nearly 30 years, in the salon business, and his family has owned salon chains in added, “We didn’t want to do the predictable Toronto — where he was raised — and Italy and Hong Kong during thing of Beverly Hills.” the Seventies, Eighties and Nineties. His father, Giancarlo, currently The duo, along with business partner owns De Berardinis Salon in Greenwich, Conn. Philippe Legendre, who is also Sonya’s hus- Last New Year’s Eve while on a family vacation in Miami, the two band (Dove and Dove Legendre used to had a heart-to-heart on the ups and downs of the salon world. “This is be married), decided upon a 2,300-square- not an easy business, it can be very diffi cult,” said Giancarlo to his son foot space, which opened last month in the at the time. But the duo decided to invest in their ultimate dream. Archstone building, a new mixed-used devel- Open for less than a month is De Berardinis Salon, located on 155 opment with retail, apartments and eateries. West 21st Street, between Sixth and Seventh Avenues, nestled between “It was a completely empty shell. We were able a barbershop and yes, another salon. to do everything from bare walls,” said Dove. The 2,200-square-foot space sells and uses Kerastase products, as They set out to transform the unsul- well as styling products by Shu Uemura. Designed by New York social- lied spot into an industrial salon with ele- ite and designer Celerie Kemble of Kemble Interiors, the salon aims ments of warmth and gave architect Kaveh to be stylish yet approachable, with large antique mirrors and brushed Amirdelfan an understanding of the seem- gold light fi xtures, complete with a retail area, reception and lounge ingly contradictory style by showing him area and coffee bar. A center island on the main cutting room fl oor is their Los Angeles area homes. “We wanted dedicated to color (Wella and Redken brands are used), with 16 chairs it to have a very clean, modern feeling, but Inside The in total fi lling up the salon. Currently, De Berardinis employs four col- we didn’t want it to be too sterile and stark,” Dove salon. orists and six stylists, and the importation of well-known hairstylist said Dove. “You can see how confusing it Cristian from Milan is pending for January. A manicure station is also would have been for someone that doesn’t in the works. Haircuts start at $100 and reach $175 for new clients of really know your character.” De Berardinis. Single process color starts at $95; highlights start at With Amirdelfan, interior designer Greg $145. Blowouts are $40. Bleier and the partners all on the same De Berardinis owns 51 percent of the salon and holds the title pres- page, they vetted some 150 different tiles ident; his father owns a 49 percent stake and serves as its secretary. and woods and searched all over the world The salon cost upward of $700,000 to build. The two expect to generate for appropriate fi xtures and furniture. Red, about $2 million in fi rst-year sales beginning Jan. 1. stain-proof chairs in the salon are from Italy, Entering the salon world seems a natural place for someone who clear shelving lit up from within hails from has a family steeped in the profession, but De Berardinis did try his Japan and a curved concrete sign behind the hand at several other careers before discovering hair was his thing. reception illuminated by fi ber optics was “He liked music, he made a couple of demos,” said his father. “He made in Hungary. was always very creative, he tried advertising. From a very early age The fl ooring and lighting gave them the he saw details,” he added. most trouble. They settled upon a soft maple De Berardinis, who for the fl oor that didn’t soak up color like a A selection recently styled the hair sponge. And they worked hard to create even of Kerastase of Isabella Rossellini and lighting by melding four different types of products. Monique Lhuiller, and lights that didn’t overly spotlight customers’ worked on a shoot for hair to the determinant of their faces and Uomo Collezioni, said he vice versa. is halfway to success. The focal point of the salon is a stain- “It’s sort of mission ac- less steel color bar that fi ts fi ve stations complished for me,” he and houses thousands of possible color va- Christopher said of completing con- rieties. “A lot of people say they have never Dove and struction of the salon. seen a color area that big,” commented Dove Sonya Dove Legendre Of the rampant compe- Legendre. Explained Dove, “When you are TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY tition in the area, De bringing a client over, you can carry on a Berardinis said there’s conversation and keep everything nice and Newport Beach, Calif., and elsewhere in only thing he’ll have to social. The feeling is that you are at your fa- greater Los Angeles. First, they have to fi ll do. “We have to raise the vorite cocktail bar.” the Santa Monica location with a staff of 15 bar higher for service. We The partners have decades of experience stylists and colorists that they choose to pay have to be better than the together. The former couple met in England with a salary rather than on commission. next guy.” when Sonya was 13 and Christopher was “We have interviewed about 500 hairdress- 15, and eventually ran a salon there for 13 ers,” said Dove. “A lot of time we are getting Inside the De years. In 1994, they moved to the U.S., where people who say, ‘I have this amount of cli- Berardinis Salon Shelton Ogle, owner of salons and schools ents, and you need me in this salon.’ It was in Chelsea. in Texas, hired the pair to be creative direc- such a turnoff. We have gone for people who tors. They then held those posts at Elizabeth have great personality.” Arden Red Door Salons before jumping to Dove Legendre said that, in year two, the Wella Professionals U.S.A., where they cur- goal is for the salon, which ended up cost- rently are creative directors. Throughout ing $700,000 to complete, to generate $1.7 their career, they gained a following for million in revenues, about 20 percent from elaborate stage shows and commitment to retail, 40 percent from color and 40 percent educating up-and-comers. from cuts and styling. The salon carries For Dove and Dove Legendre, compro- Wella, Sebastian and Crazy Color by Renbow mise has been critical to an enduring profes- products. For color, prices range from $40 sional relationship. “I have been a bit more for a consultation to $450 for creative tech- outrageously creative and out there, and niques from the creative director. Haircuts Sonya is a lot more practical,” said Dove. are priced from $65 to $175. Dove Legendre added, “Philippe is more in “We have always maintained a level of the middle….There is not a right or wrong. modesty….Truly, we are people that will When you put them together, it creates a work hard to do everything we can to do our stronger person.” best,” said Dove. “So far, every time we have

They foresee several salons in the U.S., put our heart and soul and mind into some- JOE OPPEDISANO PHOTOS BY including possible locations in Las Vegas, thing, it has worked out.” WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 11 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Al Jazeera English: Fighting Through Stereotypes By Susan Watters the face of Fakhry’s grilling. Unifi ed Buddhist Church of Vietnam, who has been “I am a journalist,” she replied, offering up a demure under house arrest in Saigon for more than 25 years. A WASHINGTON — For anyone who can’t resist betting on smile as she went on to ask why the U.S. had sched- week earlier, Al Jazeera ignited outrage in Algeria when an underdog, Al Jazeera English is a 24-hour news net- uled the round of Israeli-Palestinian peace talks for it conducted a survey on its Web site asking whether Al- work that might be worth watching. That is, if you can November at a time when leaders of both regions were Qaeda’s attacks there were justifi ed. The channel subse- find it. suffering historically low approval ratings at home. quently withdrew the poll and issued an apology. “Our great frustration in life is that except for the From there she wondered, in view of President Bush’s Washington is one of the network’s three interna- closed circuit cable systems of the Pentagon and State decision to fl out the United Nations and attack Iraq, tional bureaus, along with Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Department, which serves embassies in Washington, in whether the American President should be tried as a and London, connected to headquarters in Doha, America we are only seen on a few very small cable war criminal. Kouchner dodged the question without Qatar, by a round-the-world fi ber ring. State-of-the- systems, two in Ohio, one in Vermont and one in the once rejecting the possibility. art equipment is strictly high-defi nition. No one here Watergate complex [in Washington],” lamented co- Recalling her own journalism career start as a uses tapes. To put the shows together, producers rely anchor Dave Marash, the award-winning, Jewish, researcher for a leading Arab newspaper based in on Samsung computers and the same Vizrt template former correspondent who spent 16 years working London, she said, “I remember reading about Christiane graphics used by CNN and accessible through an on “Nightline,’’ Ted Koppel’s nightly news show. Al Amanpour in Time magazine, that she had been work- Octopus newsroom system. Jazeera English recruited Marash several months after ing as a secretary when she asked, ‘Hey, why don’t you Housed in the same unmarked offi ce of a Washington ABC laid him off in a post-Koppel move to revamp the send me to the Balkans?’’’ said Fakhry, whose decision building across the street from McCormick & Schmick’s show. At the time, Marash took a lot of heat for joining to adopt the same approach landed her an assignment seafood restaurant, Al Jazeera International and Al an Islamic-backed network that had weathered heavy covering the United Nations. “She paved the way for Jazeera English operate separately stretched over attacks from then-secretary of state Donald Rumsfeld women journalists to go to a confl ict zone.” seven fl oors. and was seen by many conservatives as an apologist “What makes Al Jazeera the best is we never waste “We all joke that the place looks like the set from ‘The for Al-Qaeda. our time with ephemeral non-news of the Paris Hilton West Wing,’’’ said a receptionist on the third fl oor where Rumsfeld is gone, Al Jazeera is now seen as a major and O.J. Simpson sort,” claimed Marash. “And most of the Al Jazeera English top brass have their offi ces. source of international news, and Marash is still break- all because we cover, perhaps even preferentially, 60 Among those who rate are Riz Khan, a former BBC ing stories. The only hitch is that, even now, it’s easy for his colleagues not to know they’re take credit for “break- Al Jazeera English’s ing” a story he did fi rst. Washington bureau Take New York Times reporter Michael Gordon, who chief Will Stebbins and last year reported that American troops and indepen- anchor Ghida Fakhry. dent U.S. contractors had assisted Ethiopian soldiers in toppling the government of Somalia. When Marash broke the story days before, he asked Adm. Michael

Mullen, now chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, SAMPERTON KYLE PHOTO BY whether the tactic might become a paradigm for future U.S. military operations. Mullen agreed, calling it “one of the arrows in our quiver.” “Michael Gordon probably never saw the show,’’ said Marash, knowing too well how public information spe- cialists can spin a story once it has already aired. Difficulties reaching viewers in the U.S. — de- spite a worldwide audience of 800 million households — aren’t the only obstacles facing Al Jazeera English’s Washington news team, though. Even after a year on air, Bush administration cabinet offi cials continue to assiduously avoid the Al Jazeera English option. “Alas, we are fi nding that American offi cials are still some- what gun shy,” said Marash, noting that in Congress, only Republican Christopher Shays of Connecticut and Democrat Neal Abercrombie of Hawaii have appeared. In addition, out of a current staff of 140, with 40 journalists and four cameramen, only one Al Jazeera English reporter holds a White House press pass. But none of this seems to bother Will Stebbins, Al Jazeera English’s Washington bureau chief, much. He puts a positive spin on the lack of access. “When the White House makes a statement on im- migration, for example, we aren’t so much interested in being in the press room as we are in reporting from the border where the story is actually taking place,” ex- plained the 41-year-old, former Latin American corre- We cover, perhaps even preferentially, 60 percent of the planet spondent for Associated Press Television, who recently “ hired Lucia Newman, CNN’s Havana bureau chief, to that our conventional competitors radically undercover. run the network’s Buenos Aires bureau. Stebbins insisted he faces no shortage of talented — Dave Marash, Al” Jazeera English journalists eager to join his staff, despite the pro forma chorus of criticism by administration offi cials who scorn percent of the planet that our conventional competitors trainee born in South Yemen and educated at the the network for showing close-up shots of wounded radically undercover. Places like South America, Africa, University of Wales in Cardiff, who previously hosted American soldiers and Iraqi civilians. the Middle East and Asia.” an interactive talk show for CNN where he interviewed “Frankly, it was sort of an embarrassment of riches Of course, Al Jazeera can afford to focus on a global world leaders including Bill Clinton, Jimmy Carter, the really,” said Stebbins, who credits his stack of résumés view because, so far, it doesn’t have any advertisers. Dalai Lama and Nelson Mandela. In April 1998, he cov- to a growing frustration among journalists over news Commercial pressures are growing on all areas of the ered the Muslim pilgrimage, the hajj, live for CNN, al- organizations trimming their international staffs. “Now Western media, a fact recently bemoaned by former most a decade before joining Al Jazeera in 2006. would seem to be a time when U.S. viewers require vice president Al Gore on “The Daily Show” as one Also in the lineup is former U.S. Marine Josh much larger ingredients of international news in their reason American newspapers and TV don’t cover more Rushing, 35, the Texan who in 2003 was assigned to take evening newscasts, and yet, oddly enough, the coverage global issues. questions from Al Jazeera as part of his duties as media is shrinking rather than growing.” In Al Jazeera’s case, the only vote that counts is that affairs offi cer at the U.S. Central Command headquar- For Lebanese-born Ghida Fakhry, the bureau’s of Qatar’s emir, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani, who ters in Doha. He became something of a media star lead female anchor, interviewing an undersecretary founded Al Jazeera International in 1996 with a grant as the only American featured in Egyptian fi lmmaker of state on matters of international policy is an oppor- of $150 million. A decade later, he started Al Jazeera Jehane Noujaim’s critically acclaimed documentary tunity worth fi ghting for. “It’s always a bit of a boxing English. But even the emir is interested in measuring “Control Room.” match,’’ said Fakhry, explaining, “I enjoy interviews his success. In November, he ordered a Nielsen report Earlier this year, when Al Jazeera English was con- where I can challenge someone in a position of author- to mark the network’s one-year anniversary, including sidering how to cover Gen. David Petraeus’ September ity. Interviewing analysts is not the same as interview- an independent analysis of who is watching what. report to Congress on the situation in Iraq, bureau chief ing U.S. offi cials before an important U.S. move like the Among Al Jazeera English’s viewers are three cable Stebbins recalled, “Just before his report, we did a story embargo of Iran.” stations in Estonia, Global TV in Canada with 1.8 mil- on the Third Infantry out of Georgia. We didn’t just Voted one of the hottest on-air female news person- lion households and YES satellite in Israel, which in focus on what Petraeus was saying. We actually went to alities by Esquire magazine, Fakhry, a size 2 who favors January dropped the BBC in favor of Al Jazeera English. the place he was talking about. Josh was embedded and Ann Taylor pantsuits for their fi tted jackets and hip-hug- The network has also been successful on the Internet, went with them to Iraq to give a fi rsthand report from ger waistlines, is a formidable interviewer, as French with its English Web site receiving 4 million to 5 mil- the troops on the ground. Foreign Minister Bernard Kouchner recently discov- lion page views a week, and 60 percent of its hits coming “The rest of the world doesn’t really have intimate ered. Noting France’s own history of developing a nu- from America. knowledge of how the U.S. functions,’’ continued clear bomb in secret, she questioned his government’s And the network continues to grab scoops — and gen- Stebbins. “They see a lot of the President, they see a saber rattling about the need to bomb Iran if that coun- erate controversy — worldwide. On Thursday it broad- lot of celebrity scandals and celebrity trials, but what try didn’t give up its nuclear aspirations. cast an interview with Vietnam’s Thich Quang Do, 80, a they’re really interested in is the interplay between the “Can’t you ask me a positive question?” he winced in prominent dissident and deputy leader of the banned legislative and executive branches.’’ 12 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 WWD.COM Jewelry Brands Look to Capitalize on Accessories

By Katya Foreman “Our bags are investment pieces, not ‘It’ bags, something that can be worn season after season,” said Asprey’s creative director Hakan Rosenius, who joined the fi rm PARIS — Jewelry brands such as Cartier, de Grisogono, Bulgari, Asprey and Chopard 18 months ago. “The brief alongside the jewelry was to develop the leather goods and may bring to mind high-wattage sparklers but, spurred by the enduring “It” bag trend, ready-to-wear, to bring it up to a level which was synonymous with the jewelry.” a growing number of fine jewelers are extending their monikers and glitzy heritages Asprey has long been renowned for its leather goods, from handbags to luggage, to leather goods lines. but hasn’t been a major player in the bag category in recent years. With the release of Having introduced bags in 1997, Bulgari’s “aggressive pursuit” of the leather the company’s python and gold Portobello bag for spring, as well as two to three sub- goods category, according to chief executive officer sequent styles planned for fall, Rosenius’ aim is to establish Francesco Trapani, took off two years ago. Today, the fi ve to six permanent classics for the house. Currently rep- brand counts fi ve accessories-only stores, including its A bag from Chopard’s resenting 10 to 12 percent of Asprey’s sales, the percentage new Rome fl agship. spring line. should grow in 2008, he predicted. “The traffi c in the accessories stores is different from Cartier also hopes its nascent Marcello bag is a classic in that of the jewelry stores,” said Trapani, referring to a the making. younger clientele on the hunt for products retailing for “We’re not thinking in terms of short-term trends, but under $1,500. more of a way of life,” said Rainero, who declined to com- Chopard is also looking to carve out a separate retail ment on sales targets for the bag. channel for its leather goods, having opened its fi rst ac- For many jewelry brands, exclusive distribution is one cessories-only store in Kuwait in 2006, followed by anoth- strategy for standing out from the pack, generally limited to er in Dubai this year. their own stores, as well as a sprinkling of high-end interna- “There is a huge potential for our accessories in some tional fashion and travel retail doors. regions and at the same time we need to protect [our] “You will not see many de Grisogono bags around the high jewelry clientele,” said Davide Traxler, director of world,” said Gruosi. “At the moment, we do very small pro- Chopard in Italy. duction and small volumes. We want to keep it limited.” Citing “high-double-digit growth” for the bag line since And make no mistake: The jewelry brands are generally its launch in 2004, Traxler hinted that more accessories- aiming for the upper end of the handbag market. An alliga- only stores are in the works. tor bag at Asprey, for example, goes from around $7,000 to “It is in fact a response to demand,” he said, adding the $13,000. spring line will include white ostrich, rose gold fi nishes “Our bags can range anywhere between a few thousand and “reptiles galore.” dollars and over $50,000 for a one-of-a-kind alligator Twist “The fashion world has invaded the bag world and bag decorated with 18-carat gold and diamonds,” said that’s the real phenomenon,” said Pierre Rainero, Rosenius. Cartier’s director of strategy and patrimony. While fragrance and eyewear lines have become exten- Cartier launched its best-selling Marcello bag line in sions for many jewelry brands, a number of players are di- June, backed by a robust media campaign. While the event vided on the matter of leather goods. Executives at Van Cleef marks the jeweler’s fi rst foray into day bags, the house is & Arpels, for example, which founded the minaudière in the no stranger to accessories. late Twenties and was the fi rst jeweler, in 1972, to launch a “In the 19th century, it was common practice for a lady scent, equate straying from the house’s core jewelry business to go to Cartier for any variety of elegant accoutrements, be with diluting the brand’s name. it an umbrella decorated with ivory and coral, say, or a bag,” “Cartier has the policy of being a global brand with a large of- said Rainero, adding that Cartier’s fi rst bag department fering, whereas we view ourselves as the essence of the Place opened in the Twenties, offering a range of leather and Asprey’s Vendôme, and bags do not have their place there,” said a fabric styles. “We aim to resurrect that [universe]. We Portobello Van Cleef spokesman, noting the house is instead lining are a jewelry house, but we have always had in-house A bag from up a series of one-off collaborations that will likely Bulgari’s bag in lilac savoir-faire for bags. And we have an incredible ar- python. include accessories. “It’s more a question of artistic chive of designs.” spring line. expression for the brand.” Eschewing come-and-go trends, many jewel- Similarly, Boucheron, which launched an ry brands are aligning their collections with eyewear collection in 1994 and also has a fra- those of traditional leather goods houses, grance, ruled out the possibility of branching such as Hermès. out into leather goods. “The bags have nothing to do with “We’ll stick to some very exclusive col- our jewelry,” said Fawaz Gruosi, laborations,” said a spokeswoman for the ceo of de Grisogono, which fi rm, which launched a limited edition launched its fi rst bag collection bejeweled Alexander McQueen Novak last month. “They are handbags bag in 2006. in the true sense, with no stones “A jeweler should remain a jeweler,” or precious metals. They repre- insisted de Grisogono’s Gruosi, who sent extreme luxury in terms of views his bag line as nothing more than materials and fi nishing, but func- a “fun exercise in creative whimsy.” tion was also a priority.” “Already, for me, it was a bit too Gruosi said the bags retail from much to extend into watches,” he added. around $2,500 to $12,000. Each bag, “If we want to remain true jewelry brands it from beach styles to evening clutches, has to stay separate. Otherwise we’ll all turn into sports a practical BlackBerry pocket, for department stores.” example. — With contributions from Lucie Greene, London

DOING THE RIGHT their condition.” about,” said Charney. “What Levi’s was to San Francisco, we THING: When The purchase of the Los aspire to be to Los Angeles,” said Charney. — Marcy Medina American Apparel Angeles-based American MEMO PAD founder Dov Charney Apparel by Endeavor Acquisition HOLIDAY GOODIES: While no one complains about getting a placed a quarter-page Corp. became fi nal earlier this bottle of wine or a box of chocolates as a corporate holiday ad in the business section of The New York Times on Dec. month, but Charney, who has gift (except, perhaps, for waistline watchers with little self- 21 stating the plight of an estimated 12 million illegal said in the past that politics control), a few media gift-givers were extra creative this immigrants in the U.S., he knew he would get a lot of bang don’t sell, said he didn’t know year. Time Inc.’s corporate communications department for his buck. But he wasn’t quite prepared to deal with yet what impact the ad would sent out a media sampling selected by their editors. An the resulting attention. “We didn’t want to spend a lot of have on his business or what Amy Winehouse CD, DVDs of the television show “Friday money on [the ad]. We might be doing more, but one ad in his shareholders would think. Night Lights” and the Oscar-winning fi lm “The Lives of The New York Times goes a long way. I think a lot of people “I am not at all worried about Others,” and Khaled Hosseini’s novel “A Thousand Splendid are going to fi nd it historical because not many retailers my ability to sell T-shirts now Suns” made the cut. speak out on this issue,” Charney told WWD. or two years from now. But one Vanity Fair, which last year gave a pocket-size copy of But he wasn’t willing to verbalize any concrete plans can’t just crawl into a shell. The Declaration of Independence and the Constitution, for proposed action or legislation, locally or nationally. “I It’s important that business ensured it would be remembered this year for its Christmas am thinking it through. I want to see if I can play a role in leaders and celebrities start card, an Annie Leibovitz shot of Bono and Graydon Carter, with bringing some intelligence in this issue,” he said. talking about this issue. From an the latter giving Time Inc.’s Jim Kelly a run for his money in When pushed about specifi c action, Charney added, academic, human and economic the Santa verisimilitude department. (A video of Carter’s “I’m just a 38-year-old guy in the schmatta business here point of view, this is good transformation is on the magazine’s Web site.) trying to fi gure out how to do something.” information to put out there on behalf of our corporation.” Architectural Digest turned to one of its AD 100 The ad, which pictured a 24-year-old American Apparel It remains to be seen whether “Mr. Charney Goes to designers, Alexa Hampton of Mark Hampton, to design a gold employee of Hispanic descent, didn’t say whether the fi rm Washington,” to paraphrase the Jimmy Stewart fi lm. But lamé umbrella for its gift this year. “Hampton was inspired has illegal immigrants among its 7,000-person worldwide the long-controversial apparel fi gure aims to make an by the inherent architectural shape of the umbrella with workforce. “I’m not making any statements or assumptions impact in his hometown, pointing to the example of Levi’s its three-dimensional skeleton arches and spire,” said a about my employees. This could be any employer in Los desegregating its factories in San Francisco during the civil spokesman for the magazine. Unfortunately, the umbrella Angeles,” said Charney, though he added, “One of the rights movement. “Why did Levi’s do it? Probably because itself is a bit more fragile than your average architectural major stakeholders in my company is my employees and it was the right thing to do at the time. And they became landmark — it comes with a tag warning users not to fold it we want to make sure we do the most we can to advance known as a company that represented what America was all when wet. But at least it looks good. — Irin Carmon WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 13 WWD.COM Fashion Meets Function in Cell Phone Design Continued from page one emerged to help them by proposing made-to-measure, “mobile-on-demand” services, electronics market in the world, with more than one billion cell phones produced such as the fi rm ModeLabs. each year, and industry experts predict that by 2011 more than 200 million mobile “It’s [fi rms like these] that are providing the fi nal nail in the coffi n of techno-ori- phones a year will come from nontraditional brands, including fashion ones. ented manufacturers,” said Lewis, adding that traditional cell phone producers such The linkup only makes sense. Hatching a new product every three months, the cell as Alcatel and Sagem have had to turn to assisting third-party brands come to market phone industry is one of the few consumer sectors that mirrors fashion’s breakneck in order to keep up with consumer demand. turnaround cycles. And for designers, the numbers are nothing but attractive: Dolce & “Today a number of luxury brands are interested but not any old how. It’s Gabbana’s limited edition MotoRAZR V3i cell phone for Motorola that retailed world- about reinventing the cell phone for it to become the next fashion accessory,” said wide for about $550 and included a swinging gold pendant with the initials DG, three ModeLabs’ Stéphane Bohbot, adding the role of his fi rm is to initiate brands disco polyphonic ring tones and a voice that announces the name of the fashion to the world of cell phones “in the same way they might have entered house when the phone is switched on or off had sales of $256 million in 12 months, the world of watches and perfume.” equivalent to more than 465,000 phones. It’s a process that now goes beyond cosmetic packaging codes. “The market is segmenting into those who want a phone with all of the latest “Clients want cell phones to refl ect the intrinsic DNA of the technological whistles and bells and those who want to make a style state- brand,” said Bohbot. For example, ModeLabs has been exper- ment,” said Chris Harris, global marketing director for Vertu, Nokia’s luxury imenting with phones that use ceramic and precious stones mobile phone subsidiary. “It’s only just dawning on people to what extent for one unnamed luxury brand. the cell phone has become a ubiquitous status symbol.” “The fi nish has to have that ‘made in France’ touch,” Lifestyle categories are also gaining prominence in the sector. he said. “Demand is changing, with the cell phone market specializing in Elsewhere, channeling style and function, ModeLabs has [sectors] such as fashion, cars, sport and music,” commented Julien used embossed stainless steel for Levi’s fi rst cell phone, which Le Tourneur, marketing manager for LG Group. comes with an attachable chain belt. Consumers will also be The fi rm produced Prada’s touch screen handset, which able to log on to the Levi’s Web site to have their name engraved has sold around 500,000 units since its launch in the spring. on the phone, which will retail for around $600. “More than anything, it’s confi rmed our positioning as an “The phone is geared to the 15-to-24 age group, a group which has aspirational, high-end brand,” said Le Tourneur of the proved ready to pay for an emotional purchase,” said Bohbot. “It’s an collaboration. important age group for us.” During the past few months, an expanding smorgas- “It’s about shaking off fuddy-duddy bord of fashion brands has unveiled cell phone ven- associations and transforming a phone tures, including Giorgio Armani, Versus, Mandarina into a glamorous fashion accessory,” Duck, Ted Baker and Levi’s, which will launch its echoed Alcatel’s Ronchi. Having devel- embossed-metal handset in the U.S. and Asian oped Elle Magazine’s fi rst cell phone markets this spring. The LVMH Moët Hennessy in 2005, she foresees the day when con- Louis Vuitton-owned Swiss luxury timepiece sumers will be able to browse editorial giant Tag Heuer also revealed its entry into content from a magazine’s branded cell the arena — a fi rst for a timepiece maker — phone. with its release planned for the second quar- Mandarina Duck’s phone “package,” ter of 2008. A Vertu meanwhile, comes with a charm that According to sources, Dior and Swarovski phone. can be used to clip the phone to a bag. are also said to be preparing cell phones for “It’s a new approach to the cell phone 2008, along with two luxury jewelers whose market that involves presenting whole names could not immediately be learned. packages, from user interfaces and “It’s a market that lends itself to global content to marketing and advertising,” brands, in particular those whose image said Ronchi. fi ts with the [technological] universe,” com- But even as phone manufacturers mented Sylvie Ronchi, product manager for and operators increasingly clamor for Alcatel’s Brand Design Lab, which has de- fashion-branded phones, distribution veloped cell phones for Elle Magazine and channels for them other than tradi- Mandarina Duck. Ronchi cited Prada, with its tional cell phone outlets remain lim- ultradesign store interiors, and denim brands, ited. The U.S., dominated by operators with their plugged-in youth consumer base, as and run under two separate wireless suitable examples. technology systems, GSM and CDMA, There are, however, daunting research is proving particularly resistant to the and development costs and certain design idea of phones that aren’t subsidized restrictions. by operators. “A cell phone is basically a radio and “The idea of buying a phone with- metal, so elements such as precious stones out a contract is alien to 99.9 percent can affect the way it performs. You need to be of the American population,” asserted really innovative to solve that problem,” said Vertu’s Harris, adding that many U.S. Matt Lewis, an analyst for ARCchart, a British citizens haven’t even come into con- research and consulting company that special- tact with a SIM card, which is often izes in the wireless communications sector. an embedded element of subsidized The fi rm will be hosting the Handset Fashion phones. “It’s a challenging market, + Style congress at the RSA in London on The Ted Baker but we’re starting to see a bit of move- April 23 to 24. cell. ment,” he said. Experts attribute fashion’s tardy arrival on “I have less faith in the U.S. market, the cell phone scene to brands being cautious Levi’s fi rst which is a paradox, as it’s there where about making mistakes in unchartered waters cell phone. swarming with electronics sharks. But with market studies showing consum- ers are now satiated with high-tech features The market is segmenting into those who want a phone such as Bluetooth, MP3 and camera functions “ and are looking for something more, fashion with all of the latest technological whistles and bells and players are eyeing the cell phone, which is seen as an increasingly indispensable gadget those who want to make a style statement. and a viable route for brand extension. ” The cell phone’s potential global reach — Chris Harris, Vertu also exceeds that of any brand’s core consum- er base, in particular in view of emerging markets such as Russia, India and China, the branding is strongest,” echoed ModeLabs’ Bohbot. “But I believe that when and increasingly wealthy ones such as the Middle East. As Shireen El Khatib, chief we have the right brand with the right distribution channels, consumers will ex- executive offi cer of the Dubai-based Al Tayer Insignia, pointed out at the WWD/DNR press themselves.” CEO Summit in October, one of the status symbols for male luxury consumers in the For brands seeking counters in department stores, meanwhile, the lofty rent, com- Middle East is the latest, most stylish mobile phone. pared with those of traditional distribution channels, often means having to bump “For brands that are used to making 100 percent margins on certain items, there’s up margins. “Brands then have to create added value to warrant the higher mar- the opportunity to make a lot of money,” suggested ARCchart’s Lewis, referring to the gins,” said Harris, adding that Vertu’s jewel-embellished phones range from $3,500 high product volumes at play in the cell phone market. to $70,000. While traditional cell phone manufacturers generate business via distribution Yet while the technical nature of phones may be off-putting for fashion retailers, deals with operators and not on margins from the actual phones, which on average some observers predict that contract-less phones may soon end up being as integral a represent just less than 10 percent, the per-device revenue for a phone branded by part of fashion departments as sunglasses and other accessories. a global fashion label is potentially greater. “Just like a pair of jeans, consumers will “For now, the sector is positioning itself with the watch and jewelry departments not hesitate to pay top dollar for a premium product,” said Lewis, adding the arrival but, who knows, in the future, phones could end up in the handbag department,” sug- of Apple’s iPhone, which retails at $500, will pave the way for a new generation of gested ARCchart’s Lewis. premium phones that don’t come attached to a service provider contract. “The per- “Just look at the way Colette has positioned phones right at its entrance device revenue for a fashion phone is potentially greater.” among the jewelry and beautiful design objects,” commented Sebastian Girard, Since many fashion brands continue to be uncertain about the cell phone’s call, head of marketing for Motorola. “Cell phones are clearly high on people’s shop- a growing number of “hand-holding” CDMs, or customized design managers, have ping lists.” 14 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 WWD.COM Rapid Manufacturing Takes Off PARIS — True to its name, rapid manufacturing is quickly altering the face of design. Here: Patrick Jouin designs. The process, which involves layering material to make objects (rather than Below: Freedom of Creation items. using molds, assembly or carving), has been around since the Eighties. But to- day’s cutting-edge techniques, involving computers and lasers or jetting to cre- ate three-dimensional pieces printed layer upon layer of plastic, nylon or resin, give people virtual carte blanche to be creative. “With this technique, there are no rules,” said Paris-based designer Patrick Jouin, who has used the process to create objects over the past few years and whose painted resin C2Chair was among his pieces recently on display at the St. Louis Museum of Art. “You are totally free. The computer allows you to do very complex forms.” “These techniques are design nirvana, really,” added Richard Hague, pro- fessor of innovative manufacturing and head of the rapid manufacturing re- search group at Loughborough University in England. Rapid manufacturing allows people to create a three-dimensional render- ing on a computer anytime, anywhere, that can easily be put into an electronic fi le, sent to a client and then manufactured, with barely any lead time. “What you see on your monitor is what I give you,” said Giordano Redaelli, a designer who also oversees production at Industreal, in Milan. “It is fantas- tic. You can simulate perfectly what you want with many kinds of materials.” So what’s the hitch? Most say the hefty cost (and subsequent price tag) of large art objects created through rapid manufacturing remain prohibitive and render the creations more collector’s items than mass products. That’s why the process is more widely used today for making small-scale prototypes for projects such as buildings, airplanes and cars than for everyday furniture or accessories. But it is believed the technology can be used more widely in the near fu- ture, as faster and more accurate techniques are developed and costs con- tinue to fall. Once more, the use of new materials, such as metals, can widen the application’s reach to categories such as jewelry. “We can make very nice jewelry — cuff links, pins — it’s very exciting,” said Janne Kyttanen, founder and designer of Freedom of Creation, based in Amsterdam, whose work was recently shown at Art Basel Miami Beach. “There is enormous potential,” said Hague. Indeed, designers hope to work with other types of techniques and materi- als in the near future. Kyttanen, for instance, envisions being able to make pieces in gradient materials that morph from one into another, like from silver to gold. Hague said that at the onset of rapid manufacturing, there were many naysayers. “I think certain people were laughing at us,” he said. “No one is laughing anymore. In the last few years, we’ve seen incredible growth.” An Industreal piece. — Jennifer Weil A World of Art on the Web By Rosemary Feitelberg Raymond J. McGuire is an investor and adviser, and banker Thomas Weisel and Warner Music U.S. head hat Bloomberg is to financial news, MutualArt. Lyon Cohen are investors. Shniberg also has been get- Wcom aims to be to the art world. ting some guidance from Simone de Pury, chairman Founder and chief executive offi cer Moti Shniberg of Phillips de Pury & Co.; Lady Elena Foster, chair- has spent the past two years fi ne-tuning his plan to man of the Tate International Council; Ruth Kaplan, provide customized information to art lovers, dealers, former deputy director of the Museum of Modern Art; collectors and artists. The by-invitation-only Web site Wenda Harris Millard, president, Media at Martha offi cially bows in March, but members have already Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc., and oth- been signing up. A $300 annual fee allows members ers. Their objective is to serve up in- to track different categories of art or individual art- formation “that is only relevant to ists from thousands of sources. They will also get the you,” Shniberg said. heads-up about their areas of interest, whether that The MutualArt.com concept “Assisted Living” by Faris McReynolds, be exhibitions, lectures, opening parties, galas or auc- dawned on Shniberg while he a member of the Artist Pension Trust. tions. But instead of being fl ooded with information, was working with new-to-the- members can fi lter it in relation to their specifi c tastes. fold collectors from the fi nance recruited the Whitney’s former direc- More than 250 publications, including Art Newspaper sector. He realized art-related tor David Ross and consulted with such and Issue, have signed on so far as content providers. information wasn’t always artists as Kiki Smith, Chuck Close and More than half of these aren’t available through search readily available and what Moti John Baldessari. engines, Shniberg said. was out there was diffi cult to Shniberg But art is only one vocation. In 1998, MutualArt.com also has signed partnerships with sift through and tough to dis- Shniberg founded ImageID, where he more than 120 museums — including the Guggenheim tinguish from art-world hype, he invented the Image-code concept that Museum, London’s Tate, the Rijkmuseum in said. Shniberg speculated about is used in the fi elds of logistics and event Amsterdam, the Whitney Museum of Art in New York why such a service hasn’t existed management for everything from Grand and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art — to until now. “It might have been delib- Slam tennis championships to White House plug their exhibitions and to offer the news services erate — people didn’t want all that infor- galas. A few years ago, Shniberg bought a beach in to their patrons, and has partnered with leading pri- mation to be transparent,” he said. Panama, a destination considered to be increasingly vate banks, auction houses and private cultural clubs. MutualArt.com isn’t Shniberg’s fi rst business ven- popular, and he is executive producer of “Rachel,” a By the end of 2008, Shniberg expects to have 2,500 gal- ture in the art world. In 2003 he started the Artist fi lm in development about the Russian poet Rachel leries signed up. Art Basel director Sam Keller said, Pension Trust, which offers long-term fi nancial plan- Blawstein, from the scriptwriter of “Frida.” “MutualArt.com helps to make the expanding art world ning for emerging and mid-career artists. The pro- One might expect a 34-year-old who has raised $10 a global village.” gram now operates in more than 40 countries, with million in fi nancial backing for MutualArt.com, which During an interview a few blocks from his Fifth more than 700 artists affi liated with eight trusts in is essentially an Internet start-up, to speak excitedly, Avenue offi ce, Shniberg said, “Basically, it’s the aggre- New York, Los Angeles, Mexico City, Beijing, Berlin, but Shniberg has a tempered cadence and a steady gation of information from many different sources.” Dubai, London and Mumbai. Last year, Bijan Khezri gaze. Perhaps due to the fact that he never studied art, With the help of special adviser Jerry Wind, the took over as ceo and president to free up Shniberg so he is able to look at the medium more objectively. One founder of the Executive MBA Program at the Wharton he could focus more on MutualArt.com. LTB Media’s of the key factors in the art market, as in the fi nan- School of the University of Pennsylvania, more than founding president Ben Crawford serves as the online cial or any other market, is information, and the more 1,000 European and American art lovers were polled company’s chief marketing offi cer. you have and the more educated you are, the better, to see what they look for when buying art and what After developing the Artist Pension Trust, Shniberg Shniberg said. would make that process better. dropped out of Hebrew University’s business school “I don’t consider myself someone who knows a lot Shniberg has assembled a heavyweight team to in Israel; the school’s dean and fi nancial expert Dan about art, but I know a lot about the art market. For help him. Citigroup’s co-head of investment banking Galai joined him in establishing the venture. They me, those are two different things,” he said. WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2007 15 WWD.COM

Jennie A Brooklynite at Blenheim Churchill

LONDON — Biographer Anne Sebba re- over Winston. She believed in her son’s and Jennie Jerome and Churchill fell in- members the shocked reactions of some destiny,” says Sebba during an interview stantly in love on the dance fl oor. fellow Englishmen about the roots of her at the English Speaking Union in Mayfair. They married the next April and latest subject, Jennie Churchill. “She may not have been the best mother Winston was born “prematurely” in “I told them Winston Churchill had an when Winston was young, but she was the November. Sebba is convinced the future American-born mother, but a lot of peo- mother he needed. All of her ambitions prime minister was conceived before ple didn’t believe me. They said it wasn’t were focused on him.” the marriage, but says the incident only possible,” Sebba recalls with a laugh. Born in 1854 and raised in Brooklyn, testifi es to his parents’ passionate rela- Indeed, while it’s common knowledge the beautiful, dark-eyed Jennie was edu- tionship, and Jennie’s self-assurance in that England’s greatest 20th-century cated mostly in Paris. Her upwardly mo- bedding her fi ancé at a time when most statesman came from the grand Spencer- bile family had moved there to escape women rarely took such risks. Churchill family (Winston wisely dropped snobby, claustrophobic New York high so- Sebba says so many of Jennie’s the double-barreled name so as not to ciety and try their luck at the more demo- thwarted desires for Randolph, the appear too posh), few realize his mother cratic court of Empress Eugenie, the wife Duke of Marlborough’s third-born son, was a nouveau riche, fashion-mad and of Napoleon III. were channeled into young Winston. often pushy Brooklyn girl called “In those days, Paris was the place “She had hoped that Randolph would Jennie Jerome. to break through — Empress become prime minister — it was some- While the Spencer- Eugenie loved Americans and thing that was being talked about,” Churchills were — and still accepted them,” says Sebba. Sebba says. While Randolph had served are — among England’s fore- During her years in Paris, as Chancellor of the Exchequer (the se- most clans with their fam- Jennie was taught to play nior fi nance minister in the British gov- ily seat at Blenheim Palace, the piano to concert stan- ernment) and leader of the House of Yet the mother never did get to see one of the country’s grandest dard, learned about world Commons, he was never destined to hold her son become prime minister in 1940. stately homes, the Jeromes affairs — and the merits of the prime minister’s offi ce and died of “It was a tragedy — but she knew it was couldn’t even get invited to discretion — and developed syphilis at age 45. his destiny to take on that role. She had one of Mrs. William Astor’s fa- a penchant for shopping, hap- Jennie would go on to marry twice drama in her blood,” says Sebba. mous private balls in New York. pily spending her father’s cash more — to men young enough to be her That sense of drama followed her But that didn’t stop Jennie Jerome. on dresses at couturier Worth. son — and she certainly had her share everywhere: Jennie died, “aged 67, and In her book, “Jennie Churchill: “Her clothes were always remarked of extramarital love affairs before she in her prime” according to Sebba, after Winston’s American Mother” (John upon, and she understood the power of died in 1921. Sebba, however, argues that breaking her ankle in a new pair of high Murray), Sebba argues that it was retail therapy. When she was living in Winston was always “the number-one heels. The fall brought on gangrene, fol- Jennie’s American pluck — and stage- England, and feeling down, she’d travel man in her life,” and she, in turn, was his lowed by a leg amputation that resulted mother personality — that helped make to Paris to shop and that would buck up staunchest supporter. “She was his confi - in a burst artery. Churchill the great statesman he became. her spirits,” says Sebba. dante, literary agent and editor, and chief Sebba, whose previous subjects in- And while the passionately written book Jennie met her future husband, Lord networker,” says the author. clude Mother Teresa and Laura Ashley — which won rave reviews in England Randolph Churchill, in the summer of For instance, while visiting soldiers — “I like writing about strong-minded — is a biography, it’s really the story of a 1873 while her family was vacationing on injured during the various wars, instead women,” she says — doesn’t know who dynamic mother-son relationship. the Isle of Wight, off the southwest coast of offering sweet words of comfort like will strike her fancy next. “Jennie is a “She was never a cuddly, nurturing of England. She and her sister had been most volunteers, Jennie urged them to hard act to follow — and I’m still com- mother — she was ambitious, well-edu- invited to a ball in honor of the Grand “Vote for Dear Winston” in upcoming par- pletely obsessed and engaged with her.” cated, knew her ground and her power Duke and Grand Duchess Cesarevitch, liamentary elections. — Samantha Conti TRACKING BEAUTY AROUND THE GLOBE

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