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Looking back at the Leicesters

he Earls of have lived in SO MANY LEICESTERS! Hall since the middle of he earldom of Leicester was first Tcreated in 1107, but whenever an the 18th century. Thomas Coke, earl dies without a son to inherit the T title it lapses and can then be granted who built the hall and created the park, is to an entirely unrelated family. Over the starting point for this exhibition, which the centuries this happened three times before Thomas was created earl in illustrates succeeding generations as far as the 1744. Previous Earls of Leicester had 7th and present . included Simon de Montfort, champion of the barons against the crown in the Their story would not exist, however, without the 13th century, and Queen ’s century of family ambition that paved the way for favourite, Robert Dudley. Thomas Coke’s achievements. The Coke family has no connection with any of these earlier Earls of Leicester. fortune made in the law. Sir , Attorney homas Coke’s only son died before AGeneral and Chief Justice under Queen Elizabeth Thim so the peerage once again fell and James I, used his wealth to endow all his sons with into abeyance when he died in 1759. The hall and estate passed to his great-nephew, property. He bought one of three manors at Holkham in 1609 a commoner, who was always known as in order to bequeath it to his fourth son, John. ‘Coke of ’. In 1837, when he was 83, the title was re-created for him. In the good marriage. John married Meriel, a young girl who meantime, however, it had been granted had inherited one of the other manors, gaining both to a rival local family, the Townshends of A Raynham, an estate only a few miles away. her land and also the Wheatley manor house which remained T. W. Coke’s official title was therefore the Coke family home from 1612 to 1756. ‘Earl of Leicester of Holkham’ and until the Townshend line died out in 1855, there ate took a hand. John’s elder brothers died unmarried or were two Earls of Leicester living near to Fwithout sons, leaving him to inherit most of his father’s lands each other. and wealth. n each creation, the numbering of the Iearls started afresh. In Holkham history, shrewd eye for opportunities came into play. John bought Thomas Coke is known as the 1st Earl, more Holkham land, drained marshes and enlarged his Top: 1590 map of T. W. Coke became the 1st Earl A Holkham with Neales and of the 2nd creation and his house. By the time of his death in 1661, he had firmly established Wheatley manor houses circled. descendants are the 2nd to 7th the Coke family in the ranks of the local gentry. His estate survived Above left Sir Edward Coke. Earls. This numbering is helpful a roller coaster of mixed fortunes during the next fifty years and Above right: This inscription, in a book recording his as five of the earls were named Thomas William Coke. passed safely to Thomas Coke when he came of age in 1718. children’s marriage settlements, expressed Sir Edward The 1st Earl. Coke’s determination to establish his family line. The 1st Earl of the 1st creation

olkham Hall was the creation of Thomas Coke (1697- H1759). He had often spent time at the old manor house at Holkham before he was orphaned at the age of ten. The need to channel his intelligence and energy, and limit his favourite distractions of cock fighting and shooting, prompted his guardians to send him on an unusually long Grand Tour. From the age of 15 to 21, he visited much of Europe, gaining a taste for books, sculpture, architecture and art. He fell in love with Italy, with all its classical associations The Cockpit, and, in particular, the architectural style of . Engraving by Hogarth. Despite the efforts of his guardians, After his return, quickly followed by his marriage to Lady Thomas Coke’s love of cockfighting lasted all his life. It seems that The 1st Earl and builder of Margaret Tufton, Coke spent much of the 1720s planning Hogarth, who is said not to have . liked the earl, shows him here as Holkham Hall, his own temple to the arts, worthy of the the corpulent, bespectacled gambler in the midst of the jostling throng at a treasures he had collected on his travels. Building started in 1734 and the project was to fight at the Royal Cockpit in Birdcage Walk. The earl is distinguishable by the badge of the Order of the take 30 long years, a period that would see his creation as Earl of Leicester in 1744, the Bath which he is also wearing in this miniature. death of the couple’s only son, Edward, in 1753, and Thomas’ own death in 1759. His household had moved into the new hall only three years earlier and it was his widow who ensured that it was finally completed and furnished exactly as Thomas had envisaged.

Right: Bill from Francesco Draft proposal by for Zuccarelli, 1758. Bill for painting the designs the Marble Hall. Coke’s vision was to create for the tapestries in the a Palladian hall in the heart Green State Bedroom. of the Norfolk countryside. He also painted the Four This design for the Marble Seasons, above the doors Hall was drastically altered in the same room, and by Coke before it was built. portraits of the earl and countess. He did much of Left: Lady Margaret. his work while staying at She completed the Hall after Holkham with his family. her husband’s death. The 1st Earl of the 2nd creation

homas William Coke succeeded to Holkham in T1776 when he was not quite 22 and his attention soon turned to farming. He championed new crops and methods and promoted improved livestock breeding. Agricultural improvement was fashionable and profitable and Coke was charismatic, energetic and hospitable. Holkham soon became famous for his annual three-day Sheep Shearings which drew hundreds of enthusiastic visitors from far and wide. The earl inspecting Southdown sheep with his shepherds Coke converted two rooms to form the Manuscript and Painting by Weaver. Classical Libraries we see today, but his greatest imprint on Holkham was outdoors. He expanded the park, swept away outdated formal garden features in favour of more natural landscaping, built the Great Barn and new ‘Coke of Norfolk’, the 1st Earl Painting by Reinagle walled kitchen gardens and planted two million trees. Coke was MP for Norfolk for fifty years. He made Holkham one of the great Whig houses, frequently entertaining national figures for weeks on end in the shooting season. ‘Coke of Norfolk’ was proud of being the ‘greatest commoner in England’ but accepted a The 1778 map shows Holkham at beginning of Thomas William Coke’s time. peerage after the accession Coke took the remaining tenanted farms ‘in hand’ to become part of the hall farm, demolished the remnants of the old village near the of in Coke’s Sheep Shearings were the south end of the lake, removed the formal basin south of the Hall, forerunners of todays county shows. added curved extensions to each end of the lake, expanded the park 1837, five years before his to its present size and encircled it with a wall nine miles long. At the Great Barn, designed by Samuel death at the age of 88. Wyatt, vistors admired his Devon cattle. The 2nd Earl of Leicester

he 2nd Earl of Leicester, ‘the Victorian earl’, was Tborn in December 1822, ten months after his father’s unexpected second marriage at the age of 68. He inherited the Holkham Estate in July 1842, when not yet 20. His lifelong passions were shooting, forestry and outdoors practical work. He was responsible for building the extensive range of stables, brew house, artesian well and laundry to the east of the hall, and the King Edward VII visits the Earl of Leicester in 1908. Towards the end of his life, stone deaf and nearly terraces, fountain and conservatory on the south. He blind, the earl had his bed wheeled into the saloon every day. During a visit by his old friends, King had 18 children by two marriages, the youngest born Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, the queen said to 49 years after the eldest. The 2nd Earl died in 1909 at Lady Leicester, “He looks so pink and white, I should like to kiss him”. The countess wrote this on his slate Thomas Coke, 2nd Earl of Leicester, the age of 86 after 66 years in charge of Holkham. whereupon he shouted, “For God’s sake tell her not to!” by George Richmond.

Left: ‘Tom Coke’s Right: Note concerning the appointment of a new headmaster first letter’. to Holkham school. Written to his mother In his old age, when the 2nd Earl’s deafness and poor eyesight had in January 1829 when he become a problem, his land agent would keep him in touch with what was just six years old. was happening by means of large scribbled notes. This Right: Four one refers to applications generations in 1908 for the post of headmaster The earl, aged 85, with at Holkham village school in his eldest son, Viscount 1904. Coke (1848 - 1941), his ‘We have seen a man who grandson (1880 - 1949) is good in all ways but and great grandson appearance. He is rather fat (1908-76). They were all and 44. Lord Coke thinks 44 named Thomas William too old. He & Lady Leicester Coke and each in turn would like a cricketer.’ became Earl of Leicester. The 3rd Earl of Leicester

nlike his predecessors who all Right: The earl in the uniform of the Scots Guards. Uinherited Holkham when aged only The future earl was commissioned into the Scots Guards in 1868, aged 20. He 20 or 21, the 3rd Earl of Leicester had a served in the Egyptian campaign in 1882 and the Suakim expedition in 1885 and long military career before succeeding to retired as colonel in 1894. He then commanded The Prince of Wales Own the title and estate in 1909 at the age of 61. Norfolk Artillery and served with them in the Boer War in 1901-2. Despite falling rents and income between the wars, he continued to live in 19th century style. ‘White tie’ dress was required even for family dinner in the Left: The 3rd Earl, Honorary north dining room, the old kitchen Colonel of the 4th Battalion of the Norfolk Regiment. continued in use, and large shooting Seen here at the Presentation of the Colours in 1909. This uniform is here in parties dominated winter social life. His our display. greatest contribution to the hall was the Below: The earl at home in later years. installation of electricity. He died in 1941 Here we see a far less formal earl, out shooting on the estate in what is clearly at the age of 93. a much-worn and much-loved jacket!

Left: Cricket has The countess, the former Alice been an important White, daughter of Lord Annaly, feature of the is seen here in about 1896 with Holkham summer her children Tom, Arthur, Roger, since at least 1841. Marjory and Bridget. Viscount Coke is seen here During the 1914-18 War, Alice helped to run a in 1908, the year before he soldiers’ convalescent hospital at Model Farm became Earl of Leicester. at Holkham, a Red Cross motor ambulance and an appeal for Norfolk Regiment prisoners of war. She was renowned in her family for Right: The earl in her love of dancing the foxtrot and charleston 1938 with his great- in the statue gallery after dinner. Members of the family provided the music on piano, banjo grandson, Eddy, and drums. In later life, Parkinson’s disease who became the confined her to a wheelchair. She died in 1936. 7th and present Earl of Leicester. The 4th Earl of Leicester

he 4th Earl of Leicester, born in 1880, joined his father’s old Tregiment, the Scots Guards, in 1900. He served in the Boer War at the same time as his father, who expected that he would ‘have a real nice campaign…it is a splendid life in every way.’ In 1910 he was commissioned into the Norfolk (The King’s Own Royal Regiment) Yeomanry and served in France and Italy in the 1914-18 War. Marion at the beach. He succeeded to Holkham on the death of his father in November An informal snapshot of a young Lady Coke, presumably taken 1941 but was in charge for only eight years before his death in 1949. on Holkham beach by another member of the bathing party one His time at Holkham was dominated by precarious finances and he summer in the 1900s. considered passing Holkham to the National Trust; as one obituary observed, he had ‘inherited at least as much anxiety as privilege’.

The 4th Earl in Scots Guards dress uniform. Letter to the 4th Earl concerning the possibility A newspaper of transferring The Norfolk Yeomanry 1911 summer camp held at Holkham. cutting describing ownership of The future 4th Earl had been commissioned into the regiment the previous year. a concert at Holkham to the Holkham in which National Trust. the earl took part Lees-Milne was Historic Left: the 4th in the summer of Buildings Secretary at the 1946 . National Trust (1936–51) Earl at camp The earl’s great love and helped save many in 1911. was music. He was an English country houses accomplished violinist. for the nation at a time He organised concerts at when huge death duties Right: The Holkham and Norwich, were being incurred by 4th Earl often including a well-known quartet of Lionel Tertis their owners who were (viola), Albert Sammons (violin), Cedric Sharpe (cello) consequently in financial with his son, and William Murdoch (piano), sometimes playing 2nd difficulties. This letter reveals Tommy, in violin with them. He was president of the Norfolk and how close Holkham came to 1914. Norwich Triennial Festival. being given up in this way. The 5th Earl of Leicester

he 5th Earl was born in 1908, when Right: The earl in his official robes. This great-grandfather, the 2nd Earl, On his death in 1976, as he had three daughters but no was still alive. He was invariably known sons, the title passed to his cousin, who had made a life as Tommy, to distinguish him from his for himself in South Africa. For the third time in its father, Tom. He served in the Scots history, as in 1671 and 1775, the estate passed to a junior Guards from 1928 to 1948 and succeeded branch of the family. to Holkham in 1949.

THE SPORTSMAN HOLKHAM POTTERY The earl opened Holkham Hall to the public for the first time in 1950, on Thursdays in July and August. Occasionally the countess sold fruit and vegetables from the walled kitchen gardens, helped by her two elder daughters, Lady Anne and The future 5th Earl out with a Lady Carey, and her sister-in- shooting party in the 1930s. Tommy at 8 months law, Lady Mary Harvey. The earl’s other great passion was golf. of age (above) and at In 1936 he won the Worplesdon Mixed Foursomes Tournament with the famous 2 years and 2 months lady player, Joyce Wethered. (below). Elizabeth, Countess of Leicester, founded Above: The 5th Earl Holkham Pottery in in the uniform of the 1951 in the redundant Scots Guards laundry and bowling alley buildings at the Left: Tommy with east of the hall. his sister, Silvia, and At its height the pottery brother David, on the employed nearly 100 hall terrace balustrade. people and was the David was killed on active biggest light industry in North Norfolk. It ceased Joyce Wethered, widely regarded as the service in Libya in 1941. His production in 2007. greatest lady golfer ever, seen here in action sister, later Lady Silvia Combe, in an earlier Mixed Foursome at Worplesdon. took on the role of family historian and preserved many family papers. She died in 2004. The 6th Earl of Leicester

nthony Louis Lovel Coke, the 6th Earl Tony at Holkham around 1916 with his aunt, Lady Aof Leicester, inherited the earldom in Coke, Pickles the dog and 1976 on the death of his cousin, the 5th Earl, cousins, Silvia and Tommy (the future 5th Earl). who had no son to take the title and estate. Silvia recorded that he invariably wore a sailor suit as a child. Born in 1909, Anthony gained such a reputation in his teens for being idle and a rebel that he was dismissed from Gresham’s School and in 1925, at the age of 17, was banished to Bechuanaland (Botswana). He fell in love with Africa. His first job was to go out each day to shoot an antelope, which he then skinned, jointed and put into a huge pot to simmer, to feed the 100 African workers on the ranch. He eventually became manager of Mayo Ranch, about 150 miles Anthony, 6th Earl of Leicester, Returning from successful hunting trip with a fine male Portrait by Lang. east of Salisbury (Harare). kudu slung along the side of the car. e spent the rest of his life in Africa, Hexcept for the war years, when he Tony, back in Africa after the war, served with the Rhodesian Air Force and with a pet ground was posted to England, serving in Bomber hornbill. At the end of the war Command at RAF Coningsby. In the Tony showed no interest in returning to live in 1940s he refused to agree to proposals to England and went back to Africa where he pass Holkham to the National Trust. As spent the rest of his life. He died there in 1994 at a result, it was his son who returned to the age of 85. England and took over the running of Anthony with his wife Moyra and a friend in 1936 at Holkham in the 1970s. Ruby Ranch, Southern Rhodesia, with a sable antelope. AN AFRICAN CHILDHOOD The 7th Earl of Leicester Eddy and Johnny, snake hunters. ord Leicester spent his boyhood on a Lremote farm in South Africa. Several cats dward Coke, 7th Earl of Leicester CBE DL, was were kept to kill the snakes which sometimes came into the house. There were occasions born in 1936 in Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe. He when he and his brother Johnny were woken E in the night by the sound of fights between came to England in 1962, living in Norfolk since 1965. the cats and a snake. The boys would leap Eddy with his great- out of bed, grab torches (there When he took over the administration of the grandfather, the 3rd was no electric Holkham Estate in 1973, it was severely run down. Earl, during a visit light) and sticks to Holkham in 1938. (always kept by the bed), then Of the 400 houses on the estate, perhaps only 30 help the cats despatch the had bathrooms. The hall needed not only heating but fire and snake and go back to bed. intruder detection equipment and none of the farms was making a A far cry from the grandeur of profit. All this was no-one’s fault, but a legacy of the huge problems Holkham. The 7th Earl and Countess of Leicester. inherited from the difficulties of the war years. However, with the Painting by Festing. improved economic climate of the 70’s, he was able to ensure that all the houses were modernised and the hall and farms brought into good order. In October 2005 Lord Leicester retired from active management of the estate and handed over control to his son, Tom. In 2006 he and his wife, Sarah, moved to another property on the estate. Eddy and sister Almary in 1940.

ACHIEVEMENTS AND PUBLIC LIFE Left: The Right: Gold Medal. Historic Her Royal Highness The Countess of Wessex, President of the Royal Houses Agricultural Society, presents Association. Lord Leicester with the Bledisloe Lord Leicester Gold Medal in 2007. The medal is addressing an awarded annually for outstanding AGM of the agricultural estate management and Above: With Swazi. Historic Houses development. Association. Right: The Golden ord Leicester has always taken an active part in public the Association of Drainage Authorities and President of the Jubilee celebrations. Llife. Amongst the positions and offices held, he was Historic Houses Association from 1998 to 2003, in which In 2002 Holkham made Leader of the Borough Council of King’s Lynn & West capacity he was awarded a CBE for services to heritage. merry on the Queen’s jubilee. Eddy, Johnny and Almary. Norfolk (1980-1985); Chairman of the Planning Committee He is an English Heritage Commissioner and a Deputy Everyone took the day off and a Johnny left South Africa in 1988 coming to (1987-1991); Chairman of the Founder Members of Radio Lieutenant of Norfolk, President of Ancient Monument great fancy dress party was held. Holkham to farm at Peterstone on the estate. Broadland; Founder Trustee and Chairman of the De Society (2010), Trustee of North Norfolk Historic Buildings Lady Leicester wore a sari and Almary still lives in South Africa and is retired Montfort University Global Education Trust; President of Trust and President of Wells RNLI. Lord Leicester appeared in the from running a trout farming business. guise of Ali G! Killed in Action Arthur, son of the 3rd Earl Arthur Coke, born in 1882, was originally destined for the Royal Navy but he left the service around 1905 because of his severe stammer. In 1914, on the outbreak of the 1st World War, he joined the Royal Horse Guards and fought in the trenches in Flanders in the first battle of Ypres. He wrote, “What I am really very Portrait of Arthur Coke, by Sir William Llewellyn. anxious to do is to get into Commander Samson’s Armoured Cars... They get a lot of exciting fighting, which is better than sitting in these infernal trenches”. He transferred to the Royal Navy Volunteer Reserve Armoured Cars in December 1914 and went with them to Gallipoli. Manning machine guns on the S.S. River Clyde, he helped to cover the landing of troops at Sedd el Bahr on 25th April 1915. He was killed in action seven days later. The grave of Arthur Coke at Gallipoli. He was later commemorated with 27,000 comrades on the Helles Memorial.

He left a widow, Hermione, and their children, Anthony and Diana. Arthur was the younger brother of the 4th Earl and so was not in the direct line of succession at Holkham. However, A faithful companion. Arthur took his Airedale Terrier, many years after his Jack, to war with him. Following death his son became Arthur’s death Jack was returned to Holkham by Arthur’s fellow the 6th Earl and his officers. Jack died here in 1918 and is buried by the west side of grandson is the 7th and the . present Earl of Leicester. Killed in Action David, son of the 4th Earl The 4th Earl’s younger son David was killed in action in December 1941, aged 26. He was a Flight Lieutenant and acting leader of 80 Squadron. He had just been awarded the D.F.C. when his Hurricane was shot down over Libya, North Africa. His death came shortly after his father succeeded to Holkham. His mother, whose journey to Holkham had been delayed by flu, had felt a premonition on the day he died that all was not well. On her arrival at Holkham she learned that he had been posted missing. David’s death was confirmed in the New Year.

Above: Letter of condolence from Roald Dahl. Right: A contemporary typed transcript. This letter to Lord and Lady Leicester from his friend and comrade in arms, the author Roald Dahl, reveals David as a fearless man of action, well-liked and respected by those who fought beside him. The Heir to Holkham orn in 1965, Thomas Edward, Viscount Coke was Beducated at Eton and graduated from the University of Manchester with a Bachelor of Arts degree in the History of Art. He was Page of Honour to Queen Elizabeth II between 1979 and 1981 and Equerry to the Duke of Kent from 1991 Page of Honour. Maintaining a tradition. to 1993. He married his wife Polly in 1996 and they have Tom, seen in this photograph behind Like the 3rd, 4th and 5th Earls, the Queen and Prince Philip, as a page Lord Coke also served in the four children. The family moved into the hall in April 2007. at the Ceremony of the Garter at Scots Guards. Windsor Castle in 1980. Lord Coke Lord Coke has been actively involved in managing the was 14 years old.

estate since leaving the Scots Guards in 1993. He assumed Right: Lord and Lady Coke responsibility for Holkham operations in October 2005 with their children, Edward, Lord Coke with his father, Hermione, Juno and the 7th Earl on handover when his father, the 7th Earl of Leicester retired. Elizabeth. day in 2005.

THE MODERN APPROACH THE CARAVANNER iscount Coke has overseen the diversification Left: Holkham 2008 of Holkham, moving it away from its historical Lord Coke and his family Vdependence on agriculture and steering the estate enjoy camping and caravan towards leisure and tourism. Today Holkham operates holidays. He was made a very successful holiday park and two thriving hotels. President of the Caravan He set up Holkham Linseed Paints which sells a range of Club in 2006 and invited the environmentally-friendly and long-lasting paints and formed club to hold its annual rally the property development business, Hector’s Housing at Holkham in 2008. Limited, naming it after “Hector”, his Irish terrier. Stars at Holkham Hall Holkham’s fine architecture and Right: timeless landscapes have made the estate a favourite location for film- Aluminium makers and many memorable scenes dream. have been shot here – it was upon As a 40th birthday Holkham beach that Gwyneth Paltrow present, Lady Coke was cast for the panoramic concluding bought her husband scene of Shakespeare in Love. Here we an original 1965 see Keira Knightley and Ralph Fiennes American Airstream, with Lord and Lady Coke in a relaxed which, when not in Pinewoods Holiday Park, The Globe at Wells, The Victoria Hotel moment during the filming of The use, is on display in the Bygones Museum. and Holkham Linseed Paints are all Holkham businesses. Duchess in 2008. ROBES AND COSTUMES The robes and costumes in this display were all worn by Earls of Leicester – two by more than one!

1. Frock coat worn by 3. The 3rd Earl’s military uniform. Viscount Coke at the Garter The photograph shows the 3rd Earl in the uniform of Honorary Colonel of the 4th Battalion of the Norfolk Regiment. ceremony. The 3rd, 4th and 5th Earls all served in the Scots Viscount Coke was Page of Honour to Her Guards for a combined period of about 63 years. Majesty the Queen from 1979 to 1981. This period of service does not include time The photograph here shows Viscount spent in the Yeomanry, Reserve or Home Guard. Coke, in the dress of a page, behind the This tradition was taken up by the present Queen and Prince Philip at the Investiture earl’s son Lord Coke who also served in the of the Knights of the Garter at Windsor Scots Guards. Castle in 1980 when Lord Coke was 14 years old. 4. The 2nd Earl’s ceremonial robe. 2. Jacket and boots worn by the 2nd Earl as The robes are made from scarlet superfine faced cloth, a durable tightly woven wool fabric. They are finely trimmed with three-inch page to HRH the Duke of Sussex at the wide ermine bars and two-inch wide gold oak leaf lace. The number coronation of Queen Victoria in 1838. of bars of ermine and gold reveal the wearer’s rank. The Duke of Sussex An earl has three bars. was Prince Augustus The same robes were also worn by the present Frederick, sixth son earl before hereditary peers were excluded from of George III and the House of Lords. From Thomas William Coke Queen Charlotte. to the 5th Earl there was a total of 139 years A favourite uncle of unbroken service in the Lords. Queen Victoria, he Together the 2nd and 3rd Earls also served as Lord Lieutenant of gave her away on Norfolk for an unbroken period of 83 years. This office was taken her wedding day. up by the 4th Earl from 1944 until his death in 1949.