151

The Technical Details 152 Glossary of Japanese Terms

Glossary of Japanese Terms

agehama an old, very labour-intensive technique for producing from seawater. The seawater is repeatedly poured over sandy terraces on the beach to evaporate some of the water and concentrate the salt content. The resulting briny liquid is then heated in special drying ovens to extract the salt.

aka- red miso made with .

amazu-zuke marinated in with added to it.

(‘sweet ’) sweet, non-alcoholic , made by fermenting rice with rice koji; sometimes favoured with . Amazake can be used to make koji-zuke.

ao- dried or seaweed sheets produced from green marine , for example, Monostroma or Ulva.

asa-zuke (‘shallow ’) tsukemono prepared over a very short period of time, anywhere from thirty minutes (for sokuseki-zuke) to overnight (ichiya-zuke). The most quickly and easily made varieties (shio-zuke) are prepared simply by rubbing the vegetables with salt and placing them in a sealed bag.

beni-shoga pickled, fresh ginger shoots or sliced ginger root that are frst salted and then marinated in vinegar; often in plum vinegar (umezu).

meal served in a box that is divided into compart- ments.

bettara-zuke classical type of koji-zuke from the area made from that is placed in a marinade of sugar, salt, and sake together with koji. It has a sticky and moist mouthfeel.

daikon large, white Chinese (Raphanus sativus). 153 Glossary of Japanese Terms (‘boiled extract’) broth based on an extract of a ­seaweed (konbu) and bonito fsh fakes (). First dashi (ichiban dashi) and second dashi (niban dashi) refer to the frst and second extracts, respectively. Konbu dashi is based entirely on konbu. Shojin dashi is a purely vegetarian dashi, in which mushrooms () replace the katsuo- bushi. Dashi is the principal source of in . doko medium made from bran, for example, rice bran (nuka-doko) or wheat bran. fu Japanese expression for wheat gluten, also known in Chinese as seitan; in raw form it is nama fu and roasted or dried it is known as yaki fu. fukujin-zuke the best known and most common type of shoyu-zuke, made from daikon, cucumbers, aubergines, sword beans, and lotus roots. It can be served as a relish or chutney with rice and curry dishes. furu-zuke tsukemono that, in contrast to asa-zuke, are pre- pared over a long period of time, often involving fermen- tation, for example, nuka-zuke and nara-zuke. -bar slang for sweet and sour pickled gin- ger root, a type of amazu-zuke; often sliced very thinly and served with sushi and coloured with red . The Japanese name for ginger root is shoga. haiku short Japanese poem traditionally written in seven- teen syllables. hakusai-zuke shio-zuke made from Chinese cabbage (Brassica rapa), often mixed with carrots and cucumber and seasoned with konbu, togorashi-chili, and peel. Hakusai-­zuke are eaten as a salad or as a condiment, for example, with fsh dishes. hanami the Japanese custom of taking the time to enjoy the feeting beauty of the cherry blossoms in the spring. 154 Glossary of Japanese Terms

hashi-yasume (‘vacation for the chopsticks’) denotes a time when the chopsticks are given a rest while one eats a very small portion of tsukemono.

iburi-gakko speciality from the Akita Prefecture; made from daikon which is smoked, often using cherry wood, and then immersed in nuka-doko.

ichiya-zuke pickles that are allowed to cure overnight, also referred to as asa-zuke.

ita-zuri age-old Japanese technique in which vegetables are rubbed thoroughly with salt before they are pickled. This helps to soften the vegetables and tenderize the skin, and it increases the amount of water that can be drawn out of them.

kabocha Japanese pumpkin (Cucurbita moschata).

kabu Japanese turnip (Brassica campestris var. glabra).

formal Japanese meal, in which the dishes are pre- sented in a prescribed order. Great emphasis is placed on serving fresh produce that is in season. Cha-kaiseki is the formal meal that is served before a Japanese ceremony.

kansha Japanese expression that encompasses placing value on something. It is used in connection with food, especially vegetables, as a way to acknowledge Nature’s gifts and human ability to convert these into delicious meals.

strong Japanese mustard (Brassica nigra, Brassica juncea, Sinapis alba).

karashi-zuke tsukemono made with karashi.

kasu lees.

kasu-zuke tsukemono marinated in kasu.

katsuobushi cooked, salted, dried, smoked, and fer- mented katsuo (bonito), which is shaved into paper-thin fakes, used, for example, to prepare dashi. 155 Glossary of Japanese Terms koji fermentation medium made from rice, barley, or soy bean paste that is seeded with spores from the fun- gus . Koji-kin is a freeze-dried product, which is a mixture of spores and rice four and that can be used as a starter for a koji culture. koji-zuke tsukemono prepared using the special fermenta- tion medium koji, which, among other ingredients, con- tains microscopic fungi (Aspergillus oryzae). komesu traditional Japanese made from pol- ished brown rice. kurosu traditional vinegar made from unpolished black rice. konbu () species of large brown alga (Saccharina japonica). Among other uses, it is the essential ingredient in dashi. Konbu contains large quantities of free glutamate and is a source of umami. konbu- konbu simmered in and . konomono (‘pickled things with a pleasant aroma’) older expression for tsukemono. kyuri Japanese cucumber (Cucumis sativus). kyuri asa-zuke quickly pickled asa-zuke made with Japanese cucumbers. maki-zushi sushi roll, with a sheet of nori wrapped either inside it or around it. mirin sweet rice wine with ca. 14 percent alcohol content; made from cooked rice that is seeded with the fungus Aspergillus oryzae. The rice is mixed with , distilled rice brandy. The in the fungus break down the starch in the rice to sugar and its to free amino acids, among them glutamate, which impart umami. Mirin is not drunk on its own but is used exclusively to season food. miso paste made from soybeans, sometimes mixed with a cereal grain, that is fermented with the help of salt and koji. It typically contains 14 percent and great 156 Glossary of Japanese Terms

quantities of free amino acids, especially glutamate. The salt content varies from 5–15 percent. Common types are white miso (shiro-miso), red miso (aka-miso), yellow or light brown miso (shinshu-miso), and barley miso (mugo- miso). is a light Japanese soup made with dashi, to which miso is added.

miso-doko miso fermentation medium, used to make miso-zuke.

miso-zuke tsukemono made with vegetables pickled in miso, for example, aka-miso. Nasu-miso are miso-zuke made with aubergines.

moromi thick paste of grains and soybeans that under- goes slow fermentation as one stage of the process that is used to produce Japanese soy sauce, shoyu.

moshio traditional Japanese sea salt produced by boil- ing and reducing seawater to which seaweed ash has been added.

mottainai Buddhist expression that refers to feelings of regret and sadness caused by having allowed something to go to waste or be misused.

nara-zuke one of the best known and tastiest kind of kasu-­zuke. It is made from a variety of vegetables, but cucumbers, marrows, and Japanese pickling melons (uri) result in a good texture. The longer the ingredients are left in the marinade, the darker their colour. Typically, these pickles keep well, up to several years.

nara-zushi the oldest form of sushi, in which rice fer- mented over a long period of time acts as a preservative for the fsh, for example, carp made into funa-zushi. The rice is not eaten but discarded.

nasu karashi-zuke tsukemono made from aubergines in a marinade with karashi.

nori fronds of the red alga , which are dried, pressed, and roasted to make paper-thin sheets that are used, for example, to make maki-zushi. 157 Glossary of Japanese Terms nori-tsukudani nori (Porphyra) simmered in mirin and soy sauce. nozawana the green stems and leaves of Japanese turnip greens (Brassica campestris var. hakabura). nuka rice bran. nuka-doko (toku) fermentation medium made with rice bran. One of its uses is for the preparation of -zuke made with daikon. nuka-miso (‘smelly women’) expression used to character- ize those women whose hands take on a peculiar odour and yellow colour from using them every day to stir the nuka-­doko, the rice bran fermentation medium used to make certain types of tsukemono. nuka-zuke tsukemono prepared by placing vegetables in a rice bran fermentation medium (nuka-doko), for example, takuan-zuke. okoko another name for oshinko. oshinko (shinko) salt pickled vegetables, often lightly pick- led, that are not completely preserved. Oshinko in the form of takuan-zuke are used to make oshinko-maki. liquid seasoning composed of soy sauce, dashi, and yuzu juice, to which a little sake is sometimes added; can be used as a marinade. rakkyo su-zuke made with Chinese onions (Allium chinense) or possibly spring onions or shallots. wheat four noodles. ryorishu cooking sake; contains less alcohol and may have a 2–3 percent salt content that makes it unft for drinking. sake rice wine, made by fermenting cooked, polished rice using the medium koji, which contains enzymes that can break down starch to sugar and proteins to free amino acids. A culture then converts the sugar to alcohol. Cooking sake (ryorishu) has a lower alcohol content and is suitable only for making food. 158 Glossary of Japanese Terms

sake-kasu sake lees.

sakura cherry blossoms. Sakura no hana no shio-zuke are salt pickled cherry blossoms.

sakura- ball of sweet with a pickled cherry leaf wrapped around.

sansho type of Japanese pepper (), which is similar to Chinese Sichuan pepper.

sliced raw fsh or shellfsh.

sato-zuke a type of tsukemono which is distinguished from other kinds because no salt is involved in its prepara- tion. Sato-zuke it is made by candying the ingredients in a sugar solution that is allowed to simmer for several days. Sato-zuke are similar to candied fruit. It is often made with Asian pickling melon, lotus roots, ginger root, ume, and yuzu peels.

senmai-zuke (‘pickling in a thousand layers’) speciality from Kyoto, made up of paper-thin slices of turnip (kabu) placed in a barrel together with konbu in a marinade of sweet rice vinegar.

shiba-zuke salt pickled aubergines and cucumbers, typi- cally coloured and seasoned with red shiso.

Shinto (‘way of the gods’) traditional religion of that emphasizes the divinity that is manifested in natural objects.

shio Japanese expression for sea salt.

shio-furi that occurs when salt is sprinkled on fresh vegetables, especially cut-up ones, allowing them to ‘sweat’ to extract water. They are then covered with water or a marinade.

shio-koji salted rice paste inoculated with koji. Ikitai shio- koji is a fltered variety of shio-koji that is clearer and fows more easily. 159 Glossary of Japanese Terms shio-momi brining by sprinkling salt onto especially thinly sliced vegetables, stirring them, and pressing the salt into them by hand. shio-zuke (‘shallow pickling’) the easiest and most quickly made tsukemono, also called asa-zuke. The process takes as little as thirty minutes or as long as overnight. shiro-miso white, sweet miso that is produced in Kyoto. shiro-uri salt pickled uri, often marinated in sake-kasu (shio-uri kasu-zuke). shiso a herb from the mint family (Perilla frutecens), that comes in three varieties, red (aka-jiso), green (ao-jiso), and green-red (aoaka-jiso). shiitake mushroom (Lentinus edodes), which in dried form contains large quantities of guanylate, a source of synergistic umami. shochu distilled rice brandy with an alcohol content of 36–45 percent. shoga Japanese word for ginger root (Zingiber offcinale). shojin ryori classical, vegetarian temple food prepared in accordance with Buddhist precepts. It was frst introduced into Japanese temples in the sixth century CE but was not widely known until the arrival of the Zen school of Buddhism about 700 years later. The meals consist princi- pally of products based on soybeans, including , miso, and shoyu, as well as fungi, , and fu. shokutaku tsukemono ki pickling barrel for making tsuke- mono; now generally refers to modern plastic crocks. shoyu Japanese soy sauce. shoyu-zuke tsukemono marinated in a mixture of soy sauce and sake or, possibly, mirin if the pickles are to be sweeter. An example of this type is fukujin-zuke. buckwheat noodles. su rice vinegar containing about 4.2 percent . 160 Glossary of Japanese Terms

sunomono (‘things that allow themselves to be prepared with rice vinegar’) these can be side dishes such as a little salad, with or without greens, in a tart marinade.

sushi Japanese food style made with cooked sweet, sour, and salty white rice combined, for example, with raw fsh, shellfsh, seaweed, vegetables, omelette, and mushrooms.

su-zuke tsukemono marinated in rice vinegar (su).

takuan-zuke nuka-zuke made with daikon, often coloured with turmeric so that it turns yellow. It is thought to have been named after a Zen monk, Takuan Soho (1573–1645).

tamanegi yellow onions (Allium cepa).

takana-zuke tsukemono of Japanese mustard leaf (Brassica jucea var. integrifolia).

taru traditional wooden barrel made from cedar or cypress wood, used for pickling and fermenting.

tataki preparation technique for raw fsh. The flet is either chopped fnely or seared quickly on all surfaces.

tawashi traditional kitchen scrub brush made from hemp fbre.

ten mori (‘heavenly arrangement’) arrangement of fnely sliced or tsukemono pressed together in the palms of the hands to form a cylinder or pyramid that is made to stand on a plate so that it seems to be pointing heavenward.

grilled fsh, chicken, and vegetables dipped in a sauce made from four, mirin, sake, and sugar.

tofu coagulated protein-rich solid prepared from soy milk.

togorashi Japanese chili.

tsuke something that has been soaked or marinated. When it follows another word, tsuke is changed to –zuke.

tsukemono Japanese pickling technique. Tsukemono (つ けもの, 漬物), pronounced ‘skay-moh-noh’ means ‘some- 161 Glossary of Japanese Terms thing that has been soaked or marinated,’ from tsuke meaning ‘hydrated’ and mono meaning ‘thing.’ tsukudani a method for preparing and conserving vegeta- bles, seaweed, fsh, and shellfsh. In contrast to tsukemono, which are prepared cold, it involves using heat to simmer the ingredients over a long period of time in soy sauce, mirin, and sugar until they are either dry or sticky. Examples made with seaweed include konbu-tsukudani and nori-tsukudani. thick, soft wheat noodles. umami (‘delicious essence’) Japanese expression for the ffth basic , a term suggested by the Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda in 1909 in connection with the identifca- tion of glutamate derived from the konbu in dashi. Umami has two components, a basal one from free glutamate, and a synergistic part due to the simultaneous presence of 5'-ribonucleotides especially inosinate found, for example, in katsuobushi and guanylate from shiitake. ume small stone fruit () that is like an apri- cot or a plum; cultivated in Japan. The wine made with it is sometimes referred to as ‘plum wine.’ expression for the most traditional type of salt pickled tsukemono (shio-zuke). The word combines the name of the fruit, ume, with boshi meaning ‘dried.’ umezu vinegar made from ume. uri Asian pickling melon (Cucumis melo var. conomon) that is very well suited for making tsukemono, for example, shiro-­uri kasu-zuke, which is uri marinated in sake lees. wabi complex esthetic concept that is used to character- ize a person, thing, or form of life that exhibits modesty, humility, loneliness, sadness, simplicity, or stillness. wakame brown seaweed species (Undaria pinnatifada); often incorporated into soups and marinades for prepar- ing tsukemono. washoku expression denoting harmony in the food, linked to traditional Japanese cuisine or meals. 162 Glossary of Japanese Terms

Japanese horseradish (Wasabia japonica).

yukari salted, dried red shiso.

yuzu small Japanese citrus fruit (Citrus junus) with a more aromatic taste than a lemon.

zuke derived from the expression tsuke, which means ‘soaked.’ When placed after another word, tsuke changes to -zuke, for example, in miso-zuke, which are tsukemono prepared using miso as a fermentation medium. 163

Illustration Credits

All photographs except those listed below were taken by Jonas Drotner Mouritsen. p. x (bottom) (Charles Zucker- mann); 19 (top), 21 (bottom); 27 (top), 82, 125, 129, 132, 134, 136 (Ole G. Mouritsen); pp. 53 (Mathias Porsmose Clausen); p. 127 (Hideo Shitara). 164 Bibliography

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Index

A bamboo shoots 26 barley 32, 45, 65 Acetobacter pasteurianus 61 base 78 acid Bashō, Matsuo 120 –– balance 60 Bass Brewery 16 –– and microorganisms 45, 140 beans 78, 79, 130 acidifcation 60, 67 –– See also soybeans acidity 67, 68, 144 beets 2, 17, 116 additives 5, 18 bell peppers 20 agehama 37, 152 beni-shoga 22, 148, 152 Ajinomoto 126 bento 118, 152 aka-miso 32, 64, 65, 152 berries 8 Akita Prefecture 28 bettara-zuke 32, 152 alcohol bioactive compounds 136 –– marinating 2, 12 bioavailability 138 –– preserving 51, 143 bitter substances 20, 39 –– taste 62, 65 black radish 100, 102 alum 78 blanching 77 ama-kuchi 128 blood sugar 136 amazake 45, 72, 152 blood pressure 143 amazu-zuke 85, 114, 152 boshi 118 amino acids 32, 129 brain 10, 141 amylase 32 bran 15, 30, 62, 69–71, 82, 116, 139 Andoh, Elizabeth 149 –– See also nuka; wheat bran; rice anthocyanin 22 broccoli 92, 93, 104 10, 57, 136, 137, 145 broccolini 93 ao-nori 18, 40, 152 buckwheat 32, 65 appetite 2, 118 buffer capacity 60 apple cider vinegar 61 burdock 32 apricot 2, 21, 118 aroma 6, 10, 12, 18, 19, 39, 51, 55, 68, 74, 77, 82, 110, 131 C –– aromatic compounds 67 cabbage Asari, Myoho 73 –– Chinese 20, 107, 110, 127–129, 143 asa-zuke 2, 14, 17, 84, 85, 102, 124, 126, 128, –– cone 74, 75 132, 148, 152 –– green 71, 107 ascorbic acid 57 –– Napa 20 asparagus calcium –– green 48, 74, 75, 82 –– chloride 18, 39, 50 –– white 49, 63, 86–88, 116 –– citrate 50 Aspergillus oryzae 32 –– hydroxide 78 ATP 9 –– ions 50, 77, 78 aubergine(s) 20, 30, 148 calories 10 autism 140 candied fruit 23 avocado 79 cancer 140, 145 canning 5 B caraway 75 26, 40 bacteria carcinogens 136 –– pathogenic 137 cardiovascular diseases 143 –– probiotic 139, 140 carrots 10, 20, 54, 65, 71, 97, 98, 116 168 Index

cassava 140 –– shoyu-zuke 26 caulifower 10, 20 –– takuan 28, 69 celery 116 –– See also Chinese radish cell dashi 4, 5, 84–86, 94, 95, 97, 102, 125, 153 –– membrane 47 dehydration 2, 20 –– structure 53 dehydrator 20, 82, 85, 86, 94, 99 –– walls 46–49, 53, 78 deliciousness 10 cellulose 46, 47, 49 diabetes 140 cereals 8, 65 dietary fbre 10, 46, 47, 50, 53, 136, 143, 145 champignon 8 dietary habits 9 (s) 120, 121 diffusion process 52 chewing 14 digestion 2, 137, 138, 140 chili 93, 107, 128 dill 39, 77, 78, 116 China 15, 129, 130 doko 116, 153 Chinese radish 55 dry-salting 85 –– See also daikon drying 18, 37, 48, 52, 125 chutney 26 dulse 92, 102 citric acid 114 climate change 10 comfort food 3 E condiments 15, 102, 114, 148 EAT-Lancet Commission 9 conserving 141 16 –– in Japan 16, 17, 44, 46 egg(s) 89, 90, 93, 101, 115 cornichons 77 enzymatic activity 44, 51, 60, 137 country cooking, Japanese 124 enzymes crispness 87, 98, 107 –– digestive 141 cross-binding 39 –– in fungus 63 cross-linking 49 –– in koji 32, 45, 60, 66, 73, 93 crunchy 3, 11, 14, 23, 28, 82, 85, 89, –– in vegetables 32, 39, 44, 60, 136, 139 97, 101, 149 evolution 6, 9 cucumber –– pickled 17, 76–78 –– salad 2, 20, 76, 77, 85 F –– texture 30 cucumber, pickles 26 –– fukujin-zuke 26, 84, 130 fermentation 2, 5, 6, 18, 54, 55, 58, 60, 62, 63, –– furu-zuke 129 65, 68, 69, 73–76, 82, 83, 104, 107, 137, –– kasu-zuke 65–66 139–144 –– kimchi 75 –– barrel 6, 63, 133 –– nara-zuke 30 –– crock 5, 57, 61, 82, 112 –– shio-zuke 20 –– and health 140 –– tsukemono 17, 76 –– in Japan 2, 55, 60, 72, 75 culinary arts 2–6, 12 –– medium 15, 30, 45, 55, 58, 63, 65, 69–71, 133 cultured milk products 139 –– of vegetables 5, 57 curing 2, 6 –– See also lactic acid fermentation curry 26 fermented 3, 5, 6, 20, 24, 39, 82, 87, 105, 113, 148 fsh –– dishes 110 D –– marinating 66 –– sushi 16 daikon 15, 28, 48, 51, 54, 55, 58, 61, 69, 71, fsh sauce 41, 75, 93, 125, 141 75, 93, 97, 98, 102, 127, 128, 133, fowers 2, 16, 82, 120, 121 143, 148, 152 food culture –– iburi-gakko 102 –– intake 9, 141–143 –– nara-zuke 86, 131 –– Japanese 4, 14, 16, 148 –– nuka-zuke 69 –– security 10 169 C–K Index fracturing 48 I freeze-drying 50, 53 freezing 44 iburi-gakko 28, 33, 102, 154 fruit(s) 2, 8–10, 12, 16, 18, 21, 36, 82, 118, ichiya-zuke 152, 154 125, 128, 148 ikitai shio-koji 45, 46, 73 fukujin-zuke 26, 33, 130, 153 immune system 141 full-sour 77 insects 45 fungus intestine 136, 139 –– culture 19 ion exchange system 37 –– spores 45 ita-zuri 85, 154 furu-zuke 17, 83, 84, 94, 98, 100–102, 104, 129, 153 J Japan 5, 14–20, 23, 28, 29, 31, 32, 36, 37, 51, G 61, 65, 97, 100, 118, 120, 123–134, 136, 144, 148, 149 gari 23, 33, 40, 114, 115, 153 –– food culture 4, 124, 148 garlic 32, 82, 110, 111 Jerusalem artichoke 88–92, 101 gel 39, 47, 50 –– miso-zuke 82, 88–92, 101 gelatinization 47 juicy 11 gherkins 84–86 ginger, ginger root 23, 65, 71, 75, 114, 115 glutamate 9 K goat cheese 113 greengage plums 118 Kabayashi, Masami 129 Gunma Prefecture 126, 127 kabocha 154 kabu 33, 154, 158 kaiseki 15, 148, 154 kale 107 H Kansai Prefecture 128 Hachisu, Nancy Singleton 124, 125 kansha 148, 149, 154 haiku 36, 153 Kanto Prefecture 128 hakusai 20, 21, 32, 107, 128 karashi 18, 70, 154 –– -zuke 20, 107, 128, 153 –– -zuke 30, 154, 156 half-sour 77 kasu-zuke 2, 5, 16, 30, 32, 65–66, 148, 154 hanami 120, 153 katsuobushi 4, 101, 154 hashi-yasume 20, 154 Kayatsu Shrine 126 health 3, 37, 41, 71, 139, 140 keeping qualities 44, 51, 65, 83, 143 –– and tsukemono 3 –– of tsukemono 44, 51, 65, 83, 143 hearing, sense of 3 kelp 8, 70 hemicellulose 47 kidney beans 79 herbs 8, 83, 115 kimchi 75 herring, pickled 17 kohlrabi 82, 94–96, 101, 102, 116 hibiscus 41 –– shio-zuke 118 Hiroshige, Utagawa 38 koi-kuchi 128 Hokkaido pumpkin 67 koji 155 homeostatic mechanism 142 –– enzymes 32, 45, 60, 66, 73, 93 horseradish 116 –– production 32, 45 household vinegar 61, 76 koji, pickling with Hubbard squash 112 –– -kin 45 human microbiota 136 –– shio-zuke 59 humidity control 28, 49 –– shoyu-zuke 62, 63 hydrogels 39, 53 –– -zuke 72–75, 93, 104, 107, 155 hydrolyzed protein 16 Kojiya Lady 73 hygiene 137 komesu 61, 155 170 Index

konbu 4, 18, 20, 24, 25, 40, 71, 83–86, 94, 95, Metchnikoffs, Elie 139 97, 102, 116, 128, 155 micro-nutrients 10 –– tsukudani 15, 155 microorganisms 18, 21, 39, 44, 45, 50, 60, 61, konomono 2, 19, 155 63, 66–69, 71, 125, 137, 140, 144 Korea 144 –– benign 66 kosher dill pickles 77 –– See also bacteria kurosu 61, 155 milk 67, 75, 139 Kyoto 24, 100, 131, 132 millet 65 Kyuri 155 minerals 10 –– asa-zuke 2, 148, 155 mirin 30, 82, 103, 155 –– shoyu-zuke 26 miso –– zuke 26, 33 –– marinating 2, 12, 32, 61–66, 82, 87 –– production 45, 65, 69 –– salt content 36, 64, 65 L –– soup 2–5, 148 lacinato kale 107 –– taste 32, 62, 64 lactic acid miso, pickling with –– bacteria 6, 12, 45, 58, 60, 63, 65, 67–69, 75, –– -doko 64, 156 76, 137, 139 –– -zuke 5, 32, 39, 54, 64–65, 82, 156 –– fermentation 56, 67, 87, 104, 107, 109, 112 mono 2 Lactobacillus 68 40, 41 –– plantarum 68 moromi 63, 156 leeks 22 moshio 37, 142, 156 legumes 8 mottainai 16, 156 lemon(s) 30, 39, 65, 83, 85, 94, 110, 116 mould 51, 63, 68, 72 lentils 78 mouthfeel Leuconostoc mesenteroide 68 –– tsukemono 3, 12, 14, 20, 28, 32, 36, 37, 46, lignin 49 102, 149 lipases 32 –– vegetables 10, 11, 20, 36, 37, 39, 40, 46, 49, longueur 18 148 lotus root 23 MSG, see monosodium glutamate lunch bag 116, 118 Murakami-ju 131, 132 mustard 18, 30, 70, 76 mustard leaves 138 M mackerel 102–104 macronutrients 136 N Maebashi 129 Nagano Prefecture 100 magnesium 18, 37, 39, 50, 77 Nagoya 126 –– ions 50, 77 nani wanakutomo ko no mono 14 Maillard products 40 Nara 15 maki-sushi 118, 119, 155 nara-zuke 82, 86, 131, 30, 31, 33, 82, 86, 131, malic acid 137 153, 156 marinade(s) 19, 24, 32, 40, 82, 83, 85, 86, 94, nasu 21 95, 97–99, 102, 103, 107, 114, 129, 130 Ninomiya, Kumiko 126 marinating 2, 83, 86, 87, 94 Nishiki Market 132 Marmite 16 nitroso compounds 145 marrow(s) 8, 32 Nordic cuisine 5 takuan-zuke 33 nori 18, 40, 156 mealy 49, 78 –– -tsukudani 15, 157 meat 8, 10, 115 Nozawa 100, 101 Meiji Period 45 nozawana 100, 101, 157 melon 2, 23, 82 nucleic acids 141 metals 57 nucleotides 9, 10 171 K–S Index

nuka 157 –– media 19 –– -doko 16, 27, 28, 40, 55, 69–71, 87, 97, 133, –– techniques 5, 12 139, 157 pressure 47, 50, 54, 56–59 –– -miso 55, 157 proteases –– -zuke 15, 54, 69–72, 90, 131, 139, 148, 157 –– in the diet 139 nutrients 10, 11, 47, 58, 70, 136, 137, 139, 140, –– hydrolyzed 16, 64 144 –– and Maillard products 40 –– bioavailability 138 –– proteins 11, 32, 45, 63, 66, 141 nutritional value 2, 9, 15, 44, 61–62, 65 –– in vegetables 32 nuts 8 Prunus mume 118 pumpkin 110 O Q ofukuro no aji 3 okoko 2, 157 quality of life 140 onions 20, 22, 61, 75, 78, 116, 127–129 quick pickling 61 Osaka 128 oshinko 2, 15, 157 –– -maki 28 R osmosis 58 radish oxidation 57, 60 –– black 100, 102 –– shio-zuke 58 rakkyo 22, 157 P ramen 2, 157 pasta 97, 98 rancidity 60, 70 pasteurizing 44 raw food diet 11 pectin 39, 47, 49, 50, 53, 77, 78 rehydration 53 pectinase 49 relish 106 pepper remoulade 116 –– sansho 103 rhubarb 8 –– togorashi 18, 24, 40, 70 rice pickles 2, 3, 14, 37, 38, 40, 86, 89, 97, 100, 101, –– boiled 72 120, 124, 127, 128, 130, 131, 148, 149 –– bran 3, 12, 15, 16, 19, 26–30, 55, 69, 71, 139 pickling 16, 17, 32, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60–61, 139 –– brown 61 –– crock 3, 5, 18, 20, 54–57, 59, 67, 71, 82, 97, –– four 45 119 –– paper 92 –– cucumber 76 –– polished 16, 26, 61, 66, 139 –– melon 2, 65, 82 –– for sushi 24 –– salting 5, 84, 86, 104, 112, 119 –– vinegar 22, 61, 114, 125 –– See also marinating; salting rock salt 36 Plant Kingdom 8 rye 65 plum rye bread 87, 115 –– greengage 118 –– pickling 118, 119 –– prune 2, 118, 119 S –– vinegar 121 Saccharomyces cerevisae 61 –– wine 2, 21, 118, 121 saffron 41 polysaccharides 40, 102 sake 157 ponzu 83, 103, 104, 157 –– lees 3, 5, 12, 19, 61–66, 69, 84, 139 potassium –– See also sake-kazu –– aluminium sulphate 78 –– marinating 15, 61–66 –– 143 sake, in pickling 3, 5, 12, 16, 30, 32, 55, 65, 82, potatoes 82 84, 86 preservation –– -kazu 39, 85, 133 172 Index

sakura 158 slimy 102 –– -mochi 120, 158 smell of home 3, 131 –– no hana no shio-zuke 120, 121 smoked cheese 116 salad 20, 76–79, 85, 107, 116, 149 102, 150 –– cucumber 2, 85 smorgasbord 115 saliva 137, 141 20, 22, 89, 128 –– secretion 137, 141 soba 14, 159 salmon 102, 110 sodium benzoate 77 salt Soho, Takuan 28 –– daily intake 143 soup powder 32, 49, 125 –– and health 140, 143 sourdough bread 113 –– marinade 32 sourdough starter 69 –– and microorganisms 125 South Korea 144 –– pickling 18, 36, 60, 73, 138 soybean –– production 37 –– oil 63 salt water 83 –– paste 64 salting 18, 58, 61, 138–139 soy sauce 2, 15, 16, 32, 36, 41, 45, 61–66, sansho 103, 158 69, 74, 82, 98, 99, 103, 110, 125, 127, sardines 101 128, 141 sashimi 2, 22, 23, 24, 158 –– marinating 16, 19, 61–66 sato-zuke 23, 36, 158 –– salt content 26, 63, 64 17, 75, 76 –– taste 26, 61 sea salt 18, 37, 83, 85, 92, 94, 98, 103 –– See also shoyu seasonings 2, 3, 85, 127 spices 17, 18, 107 seawater 36, 37 spoilage bacteria 58, 68 seaweed 4, 8, 15, 16, 18, 20, 24, 36, 37, 39–41, squash 82, 112, 113, 116 71, 75, 92, 98–99, 102, 143 starch 129 –– salt 37, 92 starter culture 67, 69, 72 seeds 8, 84, 85, 110, 125 sterilizing 77 senmai-zuke 24, 33, 102, 148, 158 stomach 139, 141 shallots 157 –– cancer 145 shellfsh 15, 16, 23, 32, 115 strawberries 116 shiba-zuke 33, 40, 130, 158 structure and texture 46 –– tsukudani 40, 130 su 20, 22, 61, 159 shiitake 26, 153, 159, 161 sucrose 50 Shin-shin 129, 130 sugar 2, 3, 12, 15, 19, 23–25, 30, 32, 45, 47, Shinto 37, 158 49–51, 53, 61, 65–68, 76, 77, 83–86, 93–95, shio 158 97–99, 102, 114, 127, 128, 136, 143 –– -furi 58, 59, 158 –– marinade 19, 32, 77, 94, 95, 99 –– -koji 45, 46, 59, 73, 74, 87, 93, 158 sulphate 78 –– -momi 58, 59, 159 sunomono 20, 160 –– -zuke 20, 36, 39, 56, 58, 59, 107, 110, 159 sushi 2, 16, 114, 160 shiro-miso 32, 159 sustainability 9 shiro-uri 2, 159 su-zuke 61, 160 shiso 2, 40, 114, 115, 118, 119, 130, 159 sword beans 130 Shitara 126 Shitara, Hideyo 126 shochu 39, 45, 55, 66, 159 shoga 22, 159 T shojin dashi 153 takana-zuke 33, 138, 160 shojin ryori 159 Takasaki 126, 129 shokutaku tsukemono ki 56, 159 takuan-zuke 28, 97, 160 shoyu 159 tamanegi 127, 128, 160 –– -koji 74 tarragon 77 –– -zuke 74, 110, 159 taru 54–56, 160 slaked lime 78 taste 173 S–W Index

–– additives 65 ume 21–23, 127, 128, 161 –– enhancers 39–41, 65, 144 –– shio-zuke 21, 22, 118 –– of home 3 umeboshi 2, 21, 22, 32, 40, 118, 119, 128, –– tsukemono 3, 37 133, 161 tataki 110, 111, 160 –– maki-sushi 119 tawashi 54, 55, 160 umezu 121, 161 tea 15, 118, 120, 128 uri 30–32, 161 ten mori 149, 160 –– nara-zuke 33, 82 teriyaki 2, 160 usu-kuchi 128 terroir 66 texture of vegetables 18, 46, 74, 77, 110, 140 Todaiji Temple 15 V tofu 32, 160 vacation for the chopsticks 20 togorashi 18, 24, 40, 70, 160 vacuole 47 Tohoku 128 vacuum-sealed bag 62, 63 Tokyo 16, 32, 126, 128 vanilla 39 Tonegawa River 129 vegan 11, 148 toxins 44, 140 vegetables Tsuji, Shizuo 3 –– breeding 8 tsuke 2, 160 –– chemical composition 9, 78 tsukemono 160–161 –– colour 36 –– basic marinade 12, 18, 83 –– decay 8, 93 –– colours of 39 –– and digestion 2, 137, 138, 140 –– consumption 4 –– effect on health 60, 74, 143, 145 –– defnition 2 –– fermentation 5, 83 –– dietary recommendations 143 –– mouthfeel 148 –– and esthetics 148, 149 –– preparation 2, 3, 10, 17, 54, 136, 139, 148 –– festivals 126 –– structure 46–50, 68, 148 –– and health 3, 37, 41, 136 –– taste 36 –– history 15, 118 –– texture 53 –– industrial production 127 –– water content 28, 49, 50, 53, 58 –– keeping qualities 44, 51, 65, 83, 143 vegetarian 11, 115, 116, 148, 149 –– markets, sold at 15, 16, 126–127, 131 vinegar –– mouthfeel 14, 36, 37, 39 –– acetic acid 60, 61, 67, 76, 114, 137 –– nutritional contents 2, 12, 15, 44, 62, 65 –– acetic acid bacteria 60, 61, 67 –– presentation of 2, 149 –– acidity 67, 68, 144 –– pronunciation 2 –– apple cider 61 –– recipes 19, 149 –– marinade 6, 61, 76, 77, 85, 137 –– serving 14, 15, 144 –– ume 39 –– shops 16, 131 –– taste 2 –– A 139 –– techniques 6, 18, 44 –– vitamin B 69, 139 –– texture 19 1 –– vitamin B3 139 –– tradition 3–6, 16, 51, 82 –– 139 –– varieties 14 –– yearly production 40, 120 tsukudani 15, 161 W tubers 8 wabi 148, 149, 161 turgidity 48 wakame 18, 40, 161 turnips 100–107, 127, 150 wasabi 31, 41, 162 –– -zuke 31 washoku 148, 161 U water udon 125, 161 –– activity 50, 136 umami 4, 9–11, 16, 41, 86, 102, 107, 126, –– binding 47, 50, 53 128, 161 –– lock 54, 57 174 Index

watercress 75 yellow onions 127 well-being 3 yogurt 67, 71, 139, 141 wheat 63, 65, 70 yukari 114, 119, 133, 162 –– bran 19 yuzu 18, 20, 23, 30, 39, 40, 85, 86, 94, wine vinegar 83, 121 103, 162 –– marinade 83 –– sato-zuke 23, 36 wood fbre 54 woody 94 Z Zen 2, 148 Y zha cai 75, 76 yeast 16 zucchini 30 yeasting 66–68 zuke 2, 16, 162