SNOW LEOPARDS OF MONGOLIA

SEPTEMBER 1–15, 2019

Snow Leopard in the Altai of Khovd, western Mongolia © Rafael Gálvez

LEADERS: RAFAEL GÁLVEZ & ATTILA STEINER LIST COMPILED BY: RAFAEL GÁLVEZ

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM

SNOW LEOPARDS OF MONGOLIA SEPTEMBER 1–15, 2019

By Rafael Gálvez

A Lammergeier perched near our ger camp in Khovd. © Rafael Gálvez

The colossal enormity of Mongolia finally made its presence once we left Ulaanbaatar. Immediately after flying through the thick smog encapsulating the bustling metropolis, “The Land of Eternal Blue Skies” unfurled in waves of mountain taiga and steppe like an endless earthen ocean below the cobalt immensity. From up high, it certainly looked like one of the least densely populated landmasses on the planet. It was not difficult to imagine ancient hordes riding freely across the uninterrupted expanse, bent on conquering the world. We were flying westward on a quest of our own and, as we approached our destination, the impressive Altai Range was a visible barrier we would not cross, like a battle-ready line of Bökh wrestlers watching over their land. By then, a team of scouts had long been entrenched in those mountains keeping watchful eyes on our behalf. As they traversed up the backs of these giants, they searched for elusive wildlife, particularly mountain mammals.

As we landed in Khovd, the setting sun baked the dramatic terrain below, casting long cold shadows. It was difficult to imagine just how we would manage to find a Snow Leopard in such an enormous range. Peter Matthiessen’s words of wholehearted acceptance suddenly came to mind as a possible outcome and still rang true at that early moment, “Have you seen the snow leopard? No! Isn’t that wonderful?”

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Although we were barely at the start of our quest, a sense of adventure had captivated us. We were in Mongolia! How were we to know then that by tour’s end we would see 175 species of birds and two dozen species of mammals, some quite rare—including the elusive Snow Leopard!

The following morning, we quickly climbed from our traditional ger camp on the foothills of the Altai to Jargalant Mountain, some 2,600 meters (8,530 ft.) in elevation. The views up the slopes and from the top were breathtaking. A vast expanse glimmered in the distance below as we stood amid giant massifs. Raptors were bountiful in the bluest sky: Lammergeiers, Steppe Eagles, and Saker Falcons. After an eventful day of scanning the jagged peaks and gorges of Jargalant from various perspectives, we finally came upon a stunning Snow Leopard resting on a null below a rocky outcrop. Our excitement could not be contained. For over an hour we watched the leopard coil and uncoil at its resting place, then stretch and hop up to an overlook, giving us fantastic views of its profile. Its beautifully spotted coat blended perfectly with the porous rock surrounding it. As it stared into the abyss, its muscular stance and tremendous thick tail made an impressive contour. As the afternoon waned, we left the leopard sprawled belly up on an outcrop, snoozing as expected of any cat, its white belly breaking up the illusion of its form; in a blink the massive predator melted into the landscape as the sun settled.

Our ger camp in Khovd at first light. © Rafael Gálvez

Without a doubt, a primary focus of our tour was to see the reclusive Snow Leopard. However, it was by no means limited to searches of this mountain feline but included plenty of opportunities to see the diverse wildlife of the region—avian, mammalian, and otherwise. The very first morning in Khovd we were swept by countless wheatears scattered over the burnished slopes surrounding our gers, including Isabelline, Pied, Desert, and Northern. Bands of Mongolian Finches, Horned Larks, and a scattering of pipits and wagtails flew over us with frequency. Whichever way you looked from our camp, Pallas’s Pikas could be seen beside their burrows. And this was true of rodents in general throughout the tour, whether moles, pikas, marmots, gerbils, or hares. It wasn’t uncommon to see groups of Cinereous Vultures resting near our camp at first light. Raptors were a constant presence, and we were treated to some of the best views of eagles, buzzards, and kites. Streams of hundreds and hundreds of Pallas’s Sandgrouse and herds of Saiga Antelope moved over ample stretches of grassland. This was an interesting tour for ungulates, for we also saw Mongolian and Goitered gazelles, Siberian Ibex, Argali, and the iconic Przewalski’s Horse. Away from the capital, people were few, but numerous were the herds of domestic sheep, goats, horses, yaks, and camels wherever we went. The Altai Mountains gave us Güldenstädt’s Redstarts, White-winged Snowfinches, and Altai Snowcocks. The countryside was vast and rugged, generous with unspoiled views. Time and again it felt enough just to be there.

Our time in western Mongolia culminated with a beautiful and moving performance by two master throat- singers that came to visit us the final evening at our camp. Khoomei , the ancient art of overtone singing, has been known from western Mongolia and neighboring Tuva for centuries, yet its true origins remain unclear. It is thought that an acoustic element of the region’s expansive plains against the massive thrust

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 of the Altai was conducive to such an ethereal form of expression, characterized by the singer’s ability to produce a whistle-like harmonic overtone riding over a guttural melody, produced by engaging the throat. The result is a layered set of multiple voices by a single individual; a gravelly rumble like rocks under hooves and a droning whistle like the wind over the steppe, harmonizing as one. This tradition is listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

Throat singers Nansalmaa and Zolzaya explaining their musical tradition. © Rafael Gálvez

Our performers were young, sweet, and elegant, dressed in traditional garbs and bearing hand-carved instruments. The woman, Zolzaya Damba, has been turning heads in festival circuits as one of the few female khoomei singers, capable of producing a very deep undertone and a whimsical overtone whistle with impressive dexterity. She wore a traditional headband with decorations and strands of beads: turquoise, coral, and silver. She sang and played the flute and a square viol with the neck carved into the head of a horse—the morin khuur . The man was Nansalmaa Nurdee, wearing a lustrous red deel robe. He sang and played the khun tovshuur , a two-stringed lute with a camel hide cover; legend has it that it was given to the people by a swan, so the head is carved and painted like that of a Mute Swan. That night the moon was full and the air outside chilled, and listening to the khoomei singers in the intimate circle of the ger felt like we were being initiated to some kind of vital human secret. The reverberating sounds of the steppe spoken as harmony between man and nature were a mystery we could only but begin to perceive. That is how western Mongolia felt—alluring and unknowable.

Having already traveled worlds away to the Mongol-Altai, our adventures were only half done. We then flew back east to the capital in order to proceed to surrounding natural areas. The car ride from the airport to Hustai National Park was a culture shock. As we stopped for fuel, multiple plumes of smoke bellowed from coal power plants displaced throughout the cityscape. Ulaanbaatar is the coldest capital city in the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 world, with an exploding population of 1.5 million inhabitants burning raw coal during long winters, resulting in a severe air pollution problem. It seemed like we couldn’t get away from the city quickly enough. At the outskirts we crossed long industrial sectors that echoed the rapid growth of the capital. However, soon we were driving through beautiful steppe, characterized by long rounded hills covered with grasses. For the following couple of days we explored Hustai with the primary aim of seeing the Przewalski’s Horse, the last surviving wild form of the horse, characterized by a large head and stout neck with a short erect mane, thicker and shorter legs, and a pelage uniformly golden-brown. For much of an afternoon, we watched several small groups along the slopes. Not far from us a male with its harem, including females with colts were slowly grazing downhill. It was captivating to watch these wild horses interact, particularly as outsiders approached an established group and tempers flared. A number of highlights were exclusive to the Hustai area, including a covey of more than a dozen Daurian Partridges, great views of Eastern Buzzards, a flash-by suite of five simultaneous bunting species, and a Chinese Gray Shrike surprise—a species that is poorly known from Mongolia and is a rare localized breeder. Here we also saw our sole herds of Mongolian Gazelle and an impressive bevy of dozens of Red Deer bucks bearing large antlers, moving along cliff tops.

Przewalski’s Horses, Hustai. © Rafael Gálvez

From Hustai we continued to Gun Galuut National Park, where we explored a variety of grassy slopes and steppe corridors entwining boulder-strewn hills. We searched for a variety of specialties here and were quick to find the impressive Argali Sheep, with enormous horns coiled at their heads. We also found flocks of Pere David’s Snowfinch, an interesting little sparrow restricted to grassy realms of Mongolia and few parts of China. A number of lakes within driving distance provided some of the most memorable birds of the tour. Only here we saw flocks of Swan and Taiga Bean geese and other surprises such as Baikal Teal, Tufted Duck and Garganey. The plains nearby hosted beautiful White-naped Cranes, and we focused on a pair of adults, their white heads and necks enclosing large red patches around the eyes. Their single orange-headed colt was nearly fully grown and followed the parents closely. One of the most memorable bird encounters of the tour.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 White-naped Cranes, Gun Galuut. © Rafael Gálvez

This was not the first visit to Mongolia for some of us, nor the first time in search of Snow Leopards, but as our time in Gun Galuut came to an end, it was clear we would soon be departing from the Land of Eternal Blue Skies. Migratory birds would continue traversing Mongolia, revealing avian surprises to few observers in such a remote expanse. During our final mornings, we walked to the vegetated edges of the adjacent river, stirring up Little and Pallas’s buntings, Pallas’s Leaf Warbler, Siberian Rubythroat, and Blyth’s Pipit among others. Our checklists for the entire tour were filled with unexpected additions. That last morning, as we bid goodbye to Gun Galuut, a single thrush-sized bird crossed the sky, possibly a species we missed altogether. Another quote by Matthiessen came to mind:

“With the first sun rays we come down into still forest of gnarled birch and dark stiff firs. Through light filtered by the straying lichens, a silver bird flies to a cedar, fanning crimsoned wings on the sunny bark. Then it is gone, leaving behind a vague longing, a sad emptiness.”

ITINERARY

September 1, 2019 – By this date, all participants of the Snow Leopards of Mongolia tour arrived to Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia. Some arrived days earlier in order to rest from the long journey before the tour started.

September 2 – This evening, our group met for a brief orientation meeting in the lobby of the Corporate Hotel in Ulaanbaatar, where we were all staying. We were joined by Uugan, our local coordinator; Cola, our translator; and a team of drivers that stayed with us during our explorations of eastern Mongolia. We then walked to the Cielo Restaurant, conveniently across the street from our hotel, on the 12 th floor of the Galaxy Tower. Through the large glass panes we could see miles around, giving us a bird’s-eye-view of a city caught in the pangs of fast growth. At the core, the city bears remnants of a Soviet past, worn-down block buildings with brutish forms being rapidly surrounded by newer, slender structures dressed with glass facades. Construction cranes could be seen throughout the horizon. With this fascinating view as backdrop and the jovial atmosphere of the restaurant, we enjoyed our first dinner together before returning to our hotel for a good night’s rest.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019

A view of Ulaanbaatar. © Rafael Gálvez

September 3 – After breakfast at the hotel, we left in four comfortable SUV’s to explore birding sites on the outskirts of the capital city. Ulaanbaatar was established on a plateau where the Tuul and Selbe rivers converge after making their course from headwaters in the Khentii Mountains to the north, the range associated with Chinggis Khan’s birth. At its inception, the city was a migratory settlement for travelers along trade routes and priests engaged in religious pilgrimages. Centuries later, the city still feels like a massive market hub, with expansive industrial areas surrounding the epicenter. Driving through the capital in this day and age can feel like a rollercoaster, with countless vehicles hustling and bustling through a city with an infrastructure that is struggling to keep up with the aggressive nature of its population growth. Currently at 1.5 million inhabitants, the capital held under a million only a decade ago. Despite its advancing modernity, the Tuul River is still central to the residents of the capital. People can be seen bathing in the river or having a restful time on its banks. Large tracts along the river still remain undeveloped, hosting some of the most vegetated areas in the city, attracting resident and migratory birds. Our first stop that morning was along such a tract, from which we could see the river below fallow fields, dense stands of willows, and disturbed areas in the process of development near residential areas. As we strolled along a berm above the river, we saw a number of species we would see time and again throughout our journey into Mongolia, such as Dusky Warbler, Daurian Redstart, and White Wagtail. We also found species that we would not find again, such as the beautiful Long-tailed Rosefinch and the pale asiatica Eurasian Nuthatch, which are permanent residents of these ancient groves within an encroaching capital. After some exciting birding we proceeded to the Khurkheree Valley outside the city for more birding and lunch at The Brooks Restaurant, part of a new resort on the slopes of a nestled valley. We made an attempt to return to the river and adjacent forests for more afternoon birding, but an unexpected visit by Russian strongman Vladimir Putin deemed the day an instant holiday declared by the Mongolian government. The previous late night had seen an unprecedented display of police officers standing by the hundreds along the primary highway leading from the Chinggis Khan International Airport. Mr. Putin arrived at the behest of Mongolian president Khaltmaagiin Battulga for the signing of a new comprehensive treaty for a strategic partnership between the two nations. With holiday declared, the city burst into chaotic activity. And after some very exciting traffic through heaping throughways devoid of any traffic lights, detours by barricaded police, and sheer hot-dogging through alleyways, we returned to the Corporate Hotel, where we had a nice dinner composed of a variety of traditional Mongolian dishes, ordered by our eager local coordinator Uugan.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 September 4 – After breakfast and with all our bags packed, we checked out of the Corporate Hotel and drove out to another location along the Tuul River, this time driving to Songino Khairkhan, the northwesternmost district of the capital. We strolled along grazing fields, vacant lots, and stands of trees along the river, again finding migrants and resident species. Here we had our best encounters with the charismatic Azure Tit, and a beautiful male Amur Falcon perched for us atop a nearby tree. Here too we had the first of many heated pursuits of multiple elusive leaf-warblers, resulting in rewarding views of Arctic and Dusky warblers. We then headed closer to the international airport and had lunch at the Asiana Restaurant where we indulged on more Mongolian dishes, proudly arranged by Uugan. That afternoon we took a domestic flight to the Khovd Region of western Mongolia. After a very smooth flight aboard a comfortable propeller plane—and some spectacular aerial views of western Mongolia’s dramatic landscape, we arrived to Khovd in the late afternoon. Dinner awaited us at the lounge of the Steppe Hotel. The sleek and glossy lounge contrasted starkly against the disheveled high-rises huddled along dust-swept blocks outside. As the sun set, we ate dinner without fully imagining the adventure that would soon unfold. With our group distributed among 4 SUVs, and led by a new team of drivers, our second translator Alta, and Sorensen—the regional coordinator, we set out into a wild expanse of desolate and undeveloped Mongolia. Roads were barely discernible from the arid landscape. Soon, a stark darkness enveloped us, and all that was to be seen through the vehicles’ windows were curtains of dust revealing lopsided tracts that vanished through the narrow beams of headlights. This was to be the first of many adventurous off-road excursions during the tour. When we arrived to the Khovd ger camp, it was a magical experience. As if a string of pearls, the line of fifteen white gers could be seen from quite a distance in the stark landscape, their white domed shapes glistening under a starry sky.

Like a line of white dots, our ger camp is visible at center. View as we climbed the Altai Range in Khovd. © Rafael Gálvez

September 5 – Some of us could not wait for the sun to rise and were lured from our beds by the incessant whirring of wings outside during first light. Countless wheatears of four species had arrived overnight and moved through the surrounding slopes, often pushing for turns at the tops of the gers. For the following handful of mornings some of us maintained this ritual, meeting before breakfast for wheatear identification clinics. We would all then meet at 8 for breakfast in the designated “restaurant ger.” Our attentive kitchen staff served us an assortment of breakfast items and hot water for tea or coffee. By then, a number of us had already seen Isabelline, Northern, Pied, and Desert wheatears, along with a

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 dash of elegant “Masked” White Wagtails. This was our first day to explore the Mongol-Altai Range in hopes of a number of regional specialties. Without a doubt, the primary focus being the elusive and much- anticipated Snow Leopard. This too would be the first of several daily and colorful sessions with our regional coordinators. Plans would often shift as quickly as bad weather tears through Mongolian skies to reveal deep blue. And what at first had been deemed a bad day for going up the mountain in search of leopards turned out to be the day we saw one. At the first gleam of enthusiasm by our regional guides, we jumped on the opportunity to ascend Jargalant Khairkhan, the giant to our west. We were suddenly told that the mountain cat had been seen two days earlier from one of the nearby peaks and that the weather would be good this day. A team of local scouts was camping up there in anticipation of our arrival. We immediately started the ascent, climbing quickly up nonexistent roads to roughly 2,700 meters. At every turn and after each rounded hill, we came upon spectacular views of mountains and a tremendous valley below, painted with subtle streaks of cool ochres and gray-greens. We arrived to a gentle perch with jagged edges, which we used as our initial scanning point and lunch location. Along with the local crew and scouts, we invested every minute through our bins and scopes scouring the rocks and crevices of the denture-like gorge below in search of any minute detail that may resemble a Snow Leopard. And there were many rock cats and rock birds to keep us in anticipation of the real thing. After lunch we shifted perspective and drove to another side of the gorge to continue our search. By then we had seen many spectacular birds including the regal Lammergeier, Steppe Eagles pouncing on one another, and a stunning nearly all-white Altai Saker Falcon that perched across the gorge for an extensive period. It was during our final hour on Jargalant that one of the youngest members of our scout team, a man in his early twenties wearing a fashionable white beret, spotted a Snow Leopard basking under a large rock on the opposite wall. We all celebrated! We spent the night at the Khovd ger camp.

Bactrian Camels on the way to Lake Durgan. © Rafael Gálvez

September 6 – Again some of us met this morning to try our skills at wheatear identification. After breakfast, our first stop was a spring near camp where many Mongolian Finches, Rock Sparrows, Twites, a Gray-necked Bunting, and several others descended to drink. We then continued downslope towards the Chandmani woodlands. There, we saw a number of migrants including several Black-throated Thrushes, a Bluethroat, Spotted Flycatchers, and many others. Hume’s was the warbler of the day—we saw many. A mysterious underground rodent emerged time and again as it worked on its burrows; eventually it was identified as the Eastern Mole Vole. A surprise was a pale-colored Eurasian Nightjar that we flushed from a barren field. It landed right by Marian, allowing us great views. After a field lunch expertly prepared by

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 our Mongolian crew, we set out across a vast grassy plain towards Lake Durgan. Along the way we crossed Saiga Antelopes running across the flat expanse and herds of Bactrian Camels. Most memorable were streams of Pallas’s Sandgrouse—hundreds at a time flushing past us as we approached the deep aquamarine of the lake. We spent the night at the Khovd ger camp.

Pallas’s Sandgrouse in Khovd. © Rafael Gálvez

September 7 – As adventurous as other days may have felt, this day had us truly off the beaten path. We descended from our camp in the morning and traversed the lowland plains in search of gazelles. The landscape soon turned sandier and drier. We visited a couple of shallow connected lakes—Kholboo, where we saw new lark, pipit, and shorebird species. Highlights included our sole views of Greater Sand- Plovers, many redshanks of both species, Pied Avocets, and Black-winged Stilts. A single Little Gull stood out among the Black-headed and Mongolian. Ducks were numerous of multiple species. The grasses nearby gave us Asian Short-toed Lark and Richard’s Pipit. After lunch we visited another lake and wetland—Khuduu, rendering Ferruginous Ducks among others and even a Great Bittern. We then commenced a sporty drive across a thick and arid grassland towards a camel camp in the middle of the endless desert-like steppe. After what seemed like a maddeningly winding wild ride through the bumpiest country, we eventually stopped to watch locals milk their camels while a nearby pen held several young calves that mourned for their meals. We were in the heart of an enormous valley surrounded by distant peaks. Our drive continued that afternoon through sand dunes and very rugged and parched terrain, moving carefully yet ardently across ditches and cracked slopes where no roads existed. Our vehicles navigated impressively across the obstacles. We finally arrived to an idyllic gorge where shrubbier habitat hosted a pair of Mongolian Ground Jays, just in time to watch them forage past us and continue on. We returned to the Khovd Camp for dinner and the night’s well-deserved rest.

September 8 – After breakfast we returned to Jargalant Mountain, this time taking a slower time up the gorge to check for birds. In scattered bushes we found Lesser Whitethroat amd Yellow-browed, Hume’s, and Dusky warblers. Although we arrived at the same vantage point up top, we found new wildlife. Sightings included a wonderful assortment of Altai specialties including Siberian Ibex, Altai Snowcock, Güldenstädt’s Redstarts, White-winged Snowfinches and others. Despite the cold weather, particularly the wind, we were kept warm with the meals prepared by our Mongolian ground team including hot stews,

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 stuffed breads, and hot water. On the way down we stopped to get good views of Brandt’s Larks and more Black-throated Thrushes. Lammergeiers, Cinereous Vultures, Steppe and Golden eagles, Saker Falcons, and Upland Buzzard had by now become regular occurrences. After a wonderful time with several new and familiar species, we returned to our ger camp for dinner and another night’s rest.

Sandier habitat found in the lowlands of Khovd. © Rafael Gálvez

September 9 – This morning we had an optional pre-breakfast walk into the nearby gorge to our west. Although rather brief, we turned up the sole Ortolan Bunting of the tour. Here too we had a most memorable encounter with a perched Lammergeier—we could not have asked for a better view of such a magnificent raptor! After breakfast we set out once again towards the mountains, accessing Jargalant up the southern slope into the Valley of Black Stone. We caught up with Brown Accentor and Crag Martins. We also visited a plantation in the middle of the flat and arid valley. The small plot was teeming with overgrown trees and Sea Buckthorn bushes, where migrants skulked. This was our last night at the Khovd camp, and we returned with anticipation that afternoon for there was a program of traditional Mongolian music scheduled for us before dinner. We were treated to a masterful performance by two young throat singers, accompanied by flute, viol, and lutes. Most remarkable was that one of the performers was a woman with a spectacular range, making her mark in a tradition that is mostly represented by men. This musical experience ranked as one of the favorite moments of the tour for many participants.

September 10 – After bidding farewell to our attentive ger camp crew, with our baggage loaded we returned to the city of Khovd, across the desolate terrain. We stopped at Khar Us Lake where we picked up several new species including Dalmatian Pelican and Pallas’s Gull. Once back in the Khovd civilization we had an all-too-brief lunch back at the Steppe Hotel and embarked on our flight to Ulaanbaatar. Arriving in the afternoon, we were met once again by our eastern Mongolia team and set out by SUVs towards Hustai. There, we checked into a more permanent group of gers at the Lunoba Camp, had dinner, and rested.

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Przewalski’s Horses in the rolling steppe of Hustai. © Rafael Gálvez

September 11 – This day we set out from Lunoba Camp to nearby Hustai National Park, returning to camp for lunch and dinner, with a second visit to the park in the afternoon. The character of the country was beautiful here, with gentler slopes covered with grasses creating a softer disposition than we’d experienced in western Mongolia. Tarbagan Marmots were common throughout. Here is where we finally caught up with the iconic Przewalski’s Horse, finding several groups foraging wild in the picturesque countryside. This was a highlight for many of us. Here too we caught up with Mongolian Gazelles and an impressive herd of Red Deer bucks moving along high craggy passes. Along the way we started seeing the first Mongolian Larks, and a covey of Daurian Partridges made a brief appearance. A gray shrike near the camp in the evening caught our utmost attention, and after a closer investigation turned out to be a rare Chinese Gray Shrike!

September 12 – After breakfast and all packed we left Lunoba Camp towards the east. Soon enough, however, we screeched to a stop, for the Chinese Gray Shrike was still nearby, this time with another member of its species, allowing us to share this rarity with the entire group. We stopped at some dunes to check for migrants and turned up a brief conglomeration of various buntings including Little, Black- faced, and Pine among others. We eventually left the region eastward towards our final destination, Gun Galuut. First we had to traverse through portions of the Ulaanbaatar capital. We encountered some bumper to bumper traffic that tested our patience, but eventually we were out again in open country, passing through multiple villages, some that were quite pleasant, with each house painted a different color. Other villages were composed of disheveled high rises, and we wondered about the lives of those who lived there. We also drove past several summer camps, popular with folks from the capital, now out of season. Along the highway we saw many sacred Oboo shrines—heaps of stones used for the worship of Heaven, typically bearing a central stake and wrapped in various layers of blue tarp or plastic. Some had piles of old wheelchairs and crutches at the base, no doubt part of the traditional practice. We stopped by the gigantic metal-covered statue of Chinggis Khan primarily to use the bathrooms and continued to beautiful rolling country. We got our first taste of what was to come as we drove past some lakes that had many new species, including Swan and Taiga Bean geese, and the much anticipated White-naped Crane.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 We would return time and again to these lakes to scrutinize every corner. Finally at our “camp,” our accommodations were en-suite bungalows overlooking the river. Dinner was at a spacious dining hall.

September 13 – This day we dedicated entirely to exploring the lakes and rolling grasslands of the park. We started with optional pre-breakfast birding along the bushes and willows by the river, where we found several Pallas’s Buntings, Pallas’s Leaf Warbler, Blyth’s Pipit, and Siberian Rubythroats. Once off on our vehicles, the grasslands granted us Corsac Fox, Mongolian Lark, and Pere David’s Snowfinches. We were keen on joining a local scout that took us to a site for Argali, and it did not take us long to find these impressive mountain sheep with their enormous curled horns. This day too we had our best views of the gorgeous White-naped Crane, Swan Goose, and Baikal Teal. Lunch and dinner were at the camp’s dining hall.

A Corsac Fox at Gun Galuut © Rafael Gálvez

September 14 – We had our final breakfast at our Gun Galuut camp, and with our bags packed and loaded, we headed westward towards the capital. Along the way we stopped at a couple of the lakes we had visited when entering the region days earlier to check for waterfowl, picking up a couple of new species for the tour, including Horned and Eared grebes. Our drive back to Ulaanbaatar was another adventure, for the road we had taken a few days earlier was now completely under construction, with detours through improvised dirt roads that traveled at times through densely populated areas, giving us a back-alley view of Mongolia’s settlements. Once in the capital center, and with our vehicles covered in layers of dust, we stopped for lunch at The London Pub before checking into the Corporate Hotel. That night we had our final dinner together as a group.

September 15 – Participants and leaders of Snow Leopards of Mongolia were transferred throughout the day to the Chinggis Khan International Airport for flights back home—or elsewhere.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 BIRDS

The following order of the field list and nomenclature are those given by James F. Clements in eBird/Clements Checklist of Birds of the World: v2018. Understanding the classification of birds around the world and keeping up with ever-occurring changes in their relationships and nomenclature is a challenging affair, particularly when considering that there are other reputable classification systems that recognize “splits and lumps” of species in a different manner than the system we use. Alternative names and taxonomic splits not recognized by the Clements system are given in parenthesis ( ). Underlined species indicate taxa of rare or very uncommon occurrence, or species that occur in such low densities as to be easily missed.

Whooper Swans in Khovd, among several species of waterfowl. © Rafael Gálvez

Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl ( Anatidae ) Graylag Goose (Anser anser ) – We saw large flocks at Khar Us Lake, Khovd on the 10 th . Swan Goose (Anser cygnoides ) – We caught up with flocks on lakes at Gun Galuut on the 12 th and 14 th . Taiga Bean Goose (Anser fabalis middendorfi ) – We found a small flock at Gun Galuut on the 12 th . Mute Swan (Cygnus olor ) – At least a pair were present at Khar Us Lake, Khovd on the 10 th . Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus ) – We saw this species at several locations, including at Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th , Khar Us Lake on the 10 th – all in the Khov region, and at Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th . Many juveniles were present, including a pair at Gun Galuut on the 13 th with a trail of 8 young. Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea ) – We saw this species at several locations, including the Tuul River near Ulaanbaatar on the 4 th , at several bodies of water in Khovd including Lake Durgan on 6th , at Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th , Khar Us Lake on the 10 th , and at Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th . Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna ) – We saw a few at Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th , and at Gun Galuut on the 12 th . Mandarin Duck (Aix galericulata ) – We saw a female flying over the Tuul River at the NW Songino Khairkhan district of Ulaanbaatar.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Baikal Teal (Anas formosa ) – After much scrutinizing of the many large teal flocks found regularly in Gun Galuut, one female was identified in nice comparison to adjacent Eurasian Teals, giving us prolonged opportunities to examine the bird – on the afternoon of the 13 th . Garganey (Spatula querquedula ) – A few were seen at Gun Galuut from the 12 th through the 14 th . Northern Shoveler ( Spatula clypeata ) – We saw relatively few, with singles at the Kholboo lakes, Khov on the 7 th , and others at Gun Galuut from the 12 th through the 14 th . Gadwall ( Mareca strepera ) – We saw a pair at Lake Khuduu, Khovd on the 7 th , hiding in the shade of the reeds. Eurasian Wigeon (Mareca penelope ) – We saw large flocks in Khovd, at the Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th , Khar Us Lake on the 10 th , and also at Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th . Mallard ( Anas platyrhynchos ) – We saw small groups in Khovd, at the Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7th , Khar Us Lake on the 10 th , and also at Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th. Northern Pintail (Anas acuta ) – We saw many in mixed flocks in Khovd, at the Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th , Khar Us Lake on the 10 th , and also at Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th . Eurasian (Green-winged) Teal ( Anas crecca crecca ) – at the Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th ,The North American “Green-winged” Teal occurs widely across the U.S. and Canada; however, the Eurasian birds are of the distinct crecca race known as Common or Eurasian Teal, regarded by many authorities as separate from the American carolinensis . Regardless of where you stand on this classification issue, the Eurasian birds are easily recognizable by their lack of a pale bar at the base of the breast feathers and the presence of a fine white border around their facial markings. Red-crested Pochard (Netta rufina ) – A few females were at Lake Durgan on the 6 th , with more at the Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th , Khovd. We again caught up with this attractive species in Gun Galuut on the 13 th . Common Pochard (Aythya ferina ) – We saw a few at the Kholboo and Khuduu lakes on the 7 th , at Lake Khar Us on the 10 th , Khovd; and at Gun Galuut on the 12 th and 14 th . Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca ) – A group of these threatened ducks was at Lake Khuduu on the 7 th , Kvod. It is always a treat to see distinct Aythya duck – dark, compact and elegant! Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula ) – Some were seen at Gun Galuut on the 13 th . Common Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula ) – We saw a number – primarily females – at Gun Gauut on the 12 th and 14 th . Common Merganser (Goosander) (Mergus merganser ) – We saw several Goosanders along the river at Gun Galuut on the 13 th and 14 th . Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serrator ) – A single female-type bird was resting on the shore of Lake Durgan, Khovd on the 6 th . White-headed Duck (Oxyura leucocephala ) – We were fortunate to catch up with various White-headed Ducks in the lakes and marshes by Khar Us, Khov. This species is always such a treat to find! Although they have a relatively broad range from the Iberian Peninsula through Central Asia, it is a globally endangered species with patchy populations, deeming it one of the rarest ducks in the Western Palearctic. It is an uncommon and very local breeder in the lakes of western Mongolia.

Pheasants, Grouse & Allies ( Phasianidae ) Chukar ( Alectoris chukar ) – We saw several in Khovd on the 5 th , 6 th , 7 th , 8 th and 9 th . Chukars are part of the attractively patterned Alectoris partridges native to the Old World. American birders have gotten to know the species from birds introduced throughout the western U.S., and even Hawaii. However, the species is native to Mongolia, ranging from Eastern Europe through the Middle East to Central Asia. Altai Snowcock (Tetraogallus altaicus ) – A small flock crossed the gorge below Jargalant Mountain as we arrived to the peak on the 8 th . Although distant and brief, some of us got to see their boldly patterned plumages as they quickly descended into the abyss and disappeared into the jagged walls. The snowcocks are comprised of five species of burly and rugged grouse-like mountain

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 dwellers. Each species is endemic to its restricted mountains along the southern belt of high altitude ranges stretching from the Caucasus to the Altai. Daurian Partridge (Perdix dauurica ) – A species that not all of us got to see. As we drove out of Hustai on the 10 th , a covey of 16 or so partridges ran in front of the last two vehicles on our caravan. We enjoyed the birds briefly, as they quickly rushed across the road to nearby grasses and were never seen again.

Grebes ( Podicipedidae ) Little Grebe ( Tachybaptus ruficollis ) – We saw this small grebe species only in Khovd on the 7 th , where the species is a rare breeder. Affectionately nicknamed Dabchick in Europe. Horned (Slavonian) Grebe (Podiceps auritus ) – At our final lake stop in Gun Galuut, we saw at least three of these in winter garb, confusingly spotted at the same time as a pair of Eared Grebes on the 13 th . Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus ) – We saw this attractive species at a number of locations including on the 6 th , 7 th and 10 th at Durgan, Kholboo, Khuduu and Khar Us lakes in Khovd, and on the 12 th and 14 th in Gun Galuut. Some young birds with striped heads were still begging their parents. Eared Grebe ( Podiceps nigricollis ) – We saw a pair at our final lake stop in Gun Galuut on the 13 th , at the same time our first Horned Grebes were found. Birds of the Eurasian P. n. nigricollis subspecies are known as Black-necked Grebe – the original name given to this species and arguably a better fit since at this time of year the birds were in their nonbreeding plumage, sporting black-backed necks.

Pigeons & Doves ( Columbidae ) Rock Pigeon ( Columba livia ) – Seen nearly daily at a number of locations. Oriental Turtle-Dove ( Streptopelia orientalis ) – The first views were brief and by few along the Tuul River at the start of the tour. We all finally got to enjoy this beautifully patterned bird on the 13 th in Gun Galuut. A single bird hid in the shade of bushes along the steppe.

A Eurasian Nightjar on barren fields near Chandmani. © Rafael Gálvez

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Sandgrouse ( Pteroclidae ) Pallas’s Sandgrouse (Syrrhaptes paradoxus ) – We saw plenty of sandgrouse in Khovd, on the 6 th , 7 th , 9 th , 10 th . Our first encounter was as we drove the flat plains to Lake Durgan and were eventually surrounded by loose streams of sandgrouse. A conservative estimate resulted in a count of roughly 1,500 sandgrouse detected in that area alone.

Cuckoos (Cuculidae ) Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus ) – Seen in Khovd, skulking in bushes on the 7 th .

Nightjars & Allies (Caprimulgidae ) Eurasian Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus ) – As we crossed a barren scrape near the Chandmani forest in Khovd on the 6 th , we flushed a nightjar that quickly circled back and landed on the exposed soil, its rather-grayish plumage blending easily into the earthen texture. Some of the eastern forms of this species are poorly studied, and may have a preference for hiding on the ground rather than within trees.

Rails, Gallinules & Coots ( Rallidae ) Eurasian Coot ( Fulica atra ) – Seen in Khovd on the 6 th and 10 th , and in Gun Galuut from the 12 th through the 14 th .

White-naped Cranes at Gun Galuut © Rafael Gálvez Cranes ( Gruidae ) White-naped Crane (Antigone vipio ) – One of the highlights of the tour, our experiences were exclusive to Gun Galuut on the 12 th through 14 th . We saw several birds, but best were a pair with a juvenile, which we observed rather close. Like most crane species, the bold pattern of gray, black and patches of red skin on the head make for a stunning impression. The White-naped Crane is a threatened species with a breeding range limited primarily to eastern Mongolia and parts of eastern Siberia and China. Eleven of the world’s fifteen species of cranes are threatened with extinction. It is always memorable to see these graceful birds anywhere; symbols of longevity and fidelity that capture the attention of people the world over. Common Crane ( Grus grus ) – We saw a few scattered groups on the 7 th and 10 th in Khovd.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019

Stilts & Avocets ( Recurvirostridae ) Black-winged Stilt ( Himantopus himantopus ) – Seen in the Kholboo lakes, Khovd on the 7 th . Pied Avocet ( Recurvirostra avosetta ) – Seen in the Kholboo lakes, Khovd on the 7 th .

Plovers & Lapwings ( Charadriidae ) Pacific Golden-Plover (Pluvialis fulva ) – At Gun Galuut from the 12 th – 14 th . Northern Lapwing ( Vanellus vanellus ) – We saw this beautiful species at Khovd on the 6th and 10 th and at Gun Galuut from the 12 th – 14 th . Greater Sand-Plover (Charadrius leschenaultia ) – At our first stop at Kholboo – the connected lakes we visited in Khovd on the 7 th , we a few in non-breeding plumage for a brief period. Kentish Plover ( Charadrius alexandrinus ) – We saw a handful of these small plovers at Lake Durgan on the 6 th .

Sandpipers & Allies ( Scolopacidae ) Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata ) - A single skulking curlew was spotted on the 12th at Gun Galuut. Black-tailed Godwit ( Limosa limosa ) – A few godwits were seen in Gun Galuut on the 12th and 14 th . Ruff ( Calidris pugnax ) – Seen in Khovd on the 7 th at Kholboo and Khar Us on the 10 th , and again at Gun Galuut on the 12 th . Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea ) – Upon arriving to Kholboo on the 7 th , a mixed flock of shorebirds greeted us, including several Curlew Sandpipers that made great comparisons with familiar Dunlins and stints. Temminck’s Stint ( Calidris temminckii ) – Seen in Khovd only, we saw singles on the 7 th and 10 th . Dunlin (Calidris alpina ) – This rather familiar species in North America is a widespread sandpiper throughout the Holarctic. It is a rather rare migrant through northern Mongolia, so our detection of at least two Dunlins was notable. It is possible that the C. a. centralis subspecies of NE Siberia regularly migrates through Mongolia on its way to wintering grounds in the Middle East. Little Stint ( Calidris minuta ) – Stints are small calidridine sandpipers; what we call “peeps” in North America. While we did not see large flocks of stints in general, we finally caught up with several at Kholboo on the 7 th . Common Snipe ( Gallinago gallinago ) – A frequently encountered shorebird during this tour. Individuals were seen well, often foraging out in the open on the 6 th and 10 th in Khovd, and from the 12 th through the 14 th in Gun Galuut. Once, this species was lumped with the American Wilson’s Snipe (G. delicata ), from which it was split many years ago. Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus ) – Found at Khovd on the 7 th and at Gun Galuut on the 14 th . Green Sandpiper ( Tringa ochropus ) –This species is in many respects similar to the Solitary Sandpiper of the Americas, occupying similar niches and even sporting blackish underwings unlike most other sandpipers. We saw several on the 7 th in Khovd, and again in Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th . Spotted Redshank ( Tringa erythropus ) – Seen on the 7 th in Khovd, and again in Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th . Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia ) – A few were seen at Gun Galuut on the 12 th and 13 th . Wood Sandpiper ( Tringa glareola ) – A single bird was seen at Gun Galuut on the 12 th . Common Redshank ( Tringa totanus ) – The redshanks are in many respects the Old World parallels of the yellowlegs of the Americas, with the Common Redshank being the smaller of the two. Several were present in the lakes of Khovd on the 7 th .

Gulls, Terns & Skimmers ( Laridae ) Black-headed Gull ( Chroicocephalus ridibundus ) – We saw several on the 6 th , the 7 th and 10 th in Khovd, and the 12 th and 14 th at Gun Galuut.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Little Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus ) – Our sole encounter was at Kholboo, Khovd on the 7 th . It is a rare and localized breeder in Northern Mongolia and an uncommon migrant. Pallas's (Great Black-headed) Gull (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus ) – We found this large gull species only at Khar Us Lake on the 10 th . (Mongolian) Herring Gull (Larus argentatus mongolicus ) – Although we never encountered it as a numerous species, this was the most frequently seen gull during our tour. We saw it on the 4 th along the Tuul River, on the 6 th , 7 th and 10 th in Khovd, and from the 12 th through the 14 th at Gun Galuut. Some authorities consider this a full species – L. mongolicus – while the International Ornithological Congress considers it a subspecies of Vega Gull ( L. vegae ) and Clements (our current system) considers vegae and mongolicus subspecies of Herring Gull ( L. argentatus ) Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia ) – We found this large tern species at Khar Us on the 10 th . White-winged Tern (Chlidonias leucopterus ) – We saw this species twice at Gun Galuut, on the 12 th and the 14 th . Common Tern (Sterna hirundo ) – A handful were seen at Khar Us on the 10 th .

Storks ( Ciconiidae ) Black Stork ( Ciconia nigra ) – We first saw this species briefly as we were approaching the city of Khovd on the 10 th on our way to the airport. We got better views on the 13 th and 14 th at Gun Galuut. While at a distance they appear to be black birds with a white belly, closer proximity reveals the iridescent greens and purples on their satin backs, and the rich red of their bills and legs.

A juvenile Black Stork over Gun Galuut © Rafael Gálvez

Cormorants & Shags ( Phalacrocoracidae ) Great Cormorant ( Phalacrocorax carbo ) – We saw this large cormorant species at several locations during the tour, including the Tuul River on the 4 th , in Lakes Durgan and Kholboo on the 6 th and 7th , at Khar Us on the 10 th and Gun Galuut from the 12 th through the 14 th .

Pelicans ( Pelecanidae ) Dalmatian Pelican (Pelecanus crispus ) – A single pelican rested at a distant bar in Khar Us lake on the 10 th . With some patience we were able to observe the bird perk up from its resting position to reveal its curled head feathers.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 19 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Herons, Egrets & Bitterns ( Ardeidae ) Great Bittern (Botaurus stellaris ) – This skulking species was briefly seen twice, on the 7 th and 10 th in Khovd. During both circumstances, each bird briefly took to flight from a hiding place to again disappear into reeds. Gray Heron ( Ardea cinerea ) – This is another species that at first glance appears like the familiar Great Blue Heron of North America. Some authorities have considered these two species, along with the Cocoi Heron of South America to form a superspecies coined the “Great Ardea Heron.” It was fun to observe the subtle traits diagnostic of Gray Heron, including the gray “thigh” feathers and lack of any rufous or buff tones overall. We found the species on the 6 th , 7 th and 10 th in Khovd, and more numerous from the 12 th through the 14 th at Gun Galuut. Great Egret ( Ardea alba ) – This is the same species that is found in North America, except is it the Eurasian A. a. modesta subspecies that is considered an uncommon visitor to Mongolia, rather than the American egretta . Observant birders may have noticed that the subtle bill coloration is reversed in Eurasian birds as shown by the slender black coloration at the tip of the upper bills of many birds we saw, indicating non-breeding. In North America, the yellow bills of Great Egrets show black on the upper tip during breeding season. We found egrets in Khovd on the 7 th and 10 th , and in Gun Galuut on the 12 th .

Ibises & Spoonbills ( Threskiornithidae ) Eurasian Spoonbill ( Platalea leucorodia ) – This is a beautiful bird that is easy to overlook for it can easily blend with nearby egrets. A crowning detail is the black spoon bill with a yellow tip. We were treated to varying views of this species on the 7 th and 10 th in Khovd, and on the 12 th and 14 th in Gun Galuut.

Cinereous Vultures resting on the slopes during the morning. © Rafael Gálvez Hawks, Eagles & Kites ( Accipitridae ) (Lammergeier) Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus ) – We were granted some excellent views of this magnificent raptor during various occasions while in Khovd, at times seeing several birds during a single day, particularly when we were up in Jargalant Mountain. On the 5 th , while on the lookout for Snow Leopards and other Altai specialties, we saw a pair several times cruising past us on tremendous wings. We even watched the birds land by a stream and briefly engage in some

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 20 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 ritual bowing. We again saw the species various times on the 8 th when we returned to the top of Jargalant. However, some of us had unparalleled views on the morning of the 9 th , during an optional prebreakfast walk into the gorge near our camp. There, we found a stunning adult Lammergeier perched on a close ledge, allowing prolonged views. You know you are seeing this species well when you can clearly see its bright red orbital rings and the long dark plumes of its beard! Cinerous Vulture (Aegypius monachus ) – We saw this dark vulture species nearly daily under various circumstances, on the wing and often resting on the ground in large groups during the several mornings, allowing great views. At Khovd, we saw the species on the 5 th and 7 th through the 10 th . On the 9 th , we saw a group near the camp with over two dozen birds resting on the slopes. We saw the species daily through the end of the tour, again finding large resting groups in Gun Galuut, just outside of our camp. Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) – We had brief views of a single bird in flight over the Tuul River in Ulaanbaatar on the 3 rd . Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis ) – The most common eagle of the tour. We had some excellent views of this species, including adults and immature birds on the wing, resting and even birds in fierce quarreling. We first saw the species on the 3 rd in the outskirts of the capital, flying over the Khurheree Valley before lunch. We saw the species multiple times in Khovd on the 5 th , 6 th and 8 th in Khovd, particularly from atop Jargalant, and also on the 11 th in Hustai when an adult hovered close over us, and at Gun Galuut on the 12 th and 13 th . Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos ) – This species was seen with less frequency than Steppe, but often enough at a number of locations including birds on the wing and resting. We saw it on the 5 th from Jargalant mountain, and againon the 8 th and 9 th . In Hustai, we saw a stunning adult at rest on the 11 th . This species is widely distributed throughout the northern hemisphere, and is represented in Mongolia by the kamtschatica subspecies, one of the largest forms of the Golden Eagle. Eurasian Marsh-Harrier ( Circus aeruginosus ) – We saw a few individuals of this species only in western Mongolia, on the 7 th over Kholboo and Khuduu lakes and on the 10 th at Khar Us. The boundary created by the Hentii Mountains in northcentral Mongolia, through the Khangai in the central region, southwestward to the Mongol-Altai range seem to be the easternmost limits of this species. Farther east it is replaced by Circus spilonotus . The “marsh-harriers” of the old world It are quite different from the harriers we see in North America, yet confusion in the name persists due to the moniker “Marsh Hawk” given to the Northern Harrier in the U.S. once upon a time. Eastern Marsh-Harrier (Circus spilonotus ) – Only seen in eastern Mongolia, at Gun Galuut on the 12 th through the 14 th . Most individuals were female-types, quite similar to Eurasian Marsh-Harrier counterparts. We did however see at least one adult male, distinctive with a rather pied look. Hen Harrier ( Circus cyaneus ) – We saw this species daily from the 11 th through the 14 th , mostly birds on the move, primarily juvenile types. Recalls the familiar Northern Harrier ( C. hudsonius ) of the Americas. At one point both were thought to be one species, yet experts clearly understood the differences in their appearance, primarily in wing shape and molting sequence, not to mention distribution. Clements finally accepted this split – somewhat late in the game – and arguments about the classification of these harriers can now be laid to rest. Japanese Sparrowhawk (Accipiter gularis ) – We were keen on scrutinizing every sparrowhawk encounter during this tour. Both Eurasian and Japanese sparrowhawks migrate across much of Mongolia. On the 12 th , while scanning the plains near the lakes at Gun Galuut, two sparrowhawks were seen migrating. What stood out was their rather compact form, the apparent sparsity of streaking on the flight feathers as seen from below, and the overall rusty coloration of both birds’ underparts. These traits are all positive in favor of Japanese Sparrowhawk. Furthermore, the species tends to be rustier throughout its underparts, including females which are barred with dark rufous, rather than gray-brown as in Eurasian Sparrowhawk. Eurasian Sparrowhawk ( Accipiter nisus ) – We saw this common Palearctic raptor on the 9 th in Khovd, when a pair of birds staked out the buckthorn plantation in hopes of a meal, and on the 14 th in

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 21 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Gun Galuut. Some of our most seasoned birders may remember the term “sparrowhawk” once used in North America for our American Kestrel, a falcon that is not a true hawk. Sparrowhawks, on other hand are true hawks, closely related to our Sharp-shinned and Cooper’s hawks. Black (Black-eared) Kite ( Milvus migrans lineatus ) –We saw this species every day of the tour, at times being quite numerous. This is a beautiful species with a buoyant and delicate flight manner that is always a treat to observe. Some authorities considered the “Black-eared” lineatus and formosanus of the east as a separate species. Common Buzzard ( Buteo buteo ) [Steppe Buzzard ( Buteo b. vulpinus )] – We saw a single rather dark bird on the 6 th in Khovd. While these two taxa are considered to be a single species, they occupy different ranges, with Steppe Buzzard being the darker eastern form. Eastern Buzzard (Buteo japonicus ) – We saw this species a number of times, on the 3rd near the Tuul River, and on the 12 th and 13 th in Gun Galuut. Similar in all respects to the Common Buzzard, buteos in Mongolia can give an identification challenge if not seen well. The Eastern Buzzard is consistently colored with a dark best across the lower belly, and typically lacking the warm browns seen in Steppe Buzzard and even in the larger Upland Buzzard. Upland Buzzard (Buteo hemilasius ) – An imposing and large raptor that is a widespread and relatively common raptor throughout Mongolia. We saw this species on the 5 th , 6 th , 8 th and 10 th in Khovd, and daily from the 10 th through the 14 th in Hustai and Gun Galuut. Nearly all the birds we saw were uniform in their plumages, with bold dark “trousers” flanking the lower body, paler belly centers, streaked breasts and dark patagial markings. A beautiful species that was always a treat to watch, as it powerfully took to wing with a strong dihedral.

Raptors on the wing. Clockwise from top left: Golden Eagle, Eastern Buzzard, Black-eared Kite, Steppe Eagle. © Rafael Gálvez

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019

Owls ( Strigidae ) Eurasian Eagle-Owl (Bubo bubo ) – Although we never saw this large owl species, many of us heard the distinctive low-pitched hooting from our ger camp in Khovd during the nights of the 6 th , the 9 th and the 10 th . Little Owl ( Athene noctua ) – We saw a single Little Owl as we arrived to the Lunoba Camp near Hustai on the afternoon of the 10 th , and again on the morning of the 11 th . The Little Owl is in the same genus as the Burrowing Owl of the Americas, and very similar in appearance and habits.

Hoopoes ( Upupidae ) Eurasian Hoopoe ( Upupa epops ) – We saw a Hoopoe briefly at our Khovd camp on the mornings of the 5th and 6 th ; perhaps the same bird since it engaged in the same flight trajectory both times.

A Saker Falcon patrolling the steppe. © Rafael Gálvez Falcons & Caracaras ( Falconidae ) Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni ) – We saw several birds staging and moving together as we were driving to the city of Khovd on our final morning in the region. Lesser Kestrel are colonial birds, and can often be seen congregating in large numbers, unlike Eurasian Kestrel. Eurasian Kestrel ( Falco tinnunculus ) – We saw this species nearly every day of the tour, in a wide range of habitats, often hovering over an expanse in search of prey. Seen on the 4 th and 7 th , and daily from the 9 th through the 14 th . Amur Falcon (Falco amurensis ) – We saw this beautiful falcon species on the 3 rd and 4 th along the Tuul River; one adult male even perched for a few minutes, giving us a great opportunity to enjoy it. Particularly when perched, the similarities to Red-footed Falcon are daunting. As soon as the perched bird flew, the white underwing coverts diagnostic of the species were clearly evident. We again saw the bird on the 5 th , though it was unfortunately too quick to document for the species is rare in western Mongolia. Saker Falcon (Falco cherrug ) – This magnificent and powerful falcon was seen many times during this tour, making it one of the highlights of our time in Mongolia. Our first encounter was on Jargalant Mountain on the 5 th , when a perched bird was scoped on a distant cliff. That bird seemed so white that it could have easily been mistaken for Gyrfalcon. Some authorities have recognized an Altai Falcon – Falco altaicus or F. cherrug altaicus . However, the classification of these Altai forms has remained uncertain and it has even been suggested that these larger birds may be natural or backcross hybrids with Gyrfalcon ( F. rusticolus ), which is a rare winter resident of Mongolia. These Altai forms exhibit a pale and dark form, unlike the nominate Saker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 23 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 yet like Gyrfalcon. Clements currently lists two subspecies for Mongolia, the nominate cherrug in the Altai and west, and the milvipes of Siberia and northern Mongolia. We again saw the species on the 7 th , 8 th and 10 th in Khovd, at times a very close proximity – always too fast. In Hustai and Gun Galuut we saw it on the 11 th through the 14 th , these birds appearing typically brown plumaged.

Two Chinese Gray Shrikes were the biggest surprise of the tour. © Rafael Gálvez

Shrikes ( Laniidae ) Isabelline Shrike (Lanius isabellinus ) – The Isabelline Shrike is a species that breeds from Central Asia to China. It is smallish shrike with relatively low contrast plumage that is overall buff tinged, and a reddish tail. We saw the species in Khovd on the 6 th , 8 th and 10 th . Brown Shrike (Lanius cristatus ) – We saw two, one along the Tuul River on the 3 rd , and another at Gun Galuut on the 12 th . (Steppe) Great Gray Shrike (Lanius excubitor pallidirostris ) – This is a subspecies of Great Gray Shrike that breeds from Iran eastward to the arid steppes of Mongolia. The bird is readily differentiated from other forms by its overall paler coloration. One perched atop a sand dune on the 7 th , as we left the camel camp in Khovd. Chinese Gray Shrike (Lanius sphenocercus sphenocercus ) – The presence not only of one, but two Chinese Gray Shrikes was arguably one of the most surprising events of the tour. This rare and localized species is known from few locations in Mongolia, with limited documentation. On the 12 th , upon returning from Hustai National Park in the evening in the last vehicle of our caravan, Attila spotted a “gray” shrike perched on a cable not far from our camp. Some of us drove back and managed to document it, capturing the diagnostic wing pattern of the species. The morning of the 13 th , as we left the Lunoba Camp, two were spotted, interacting and flying along cables. We clearly photographed the diagnostic white wing bar that extends into the secondaries.

Crows, Jays & Magpies ( Corvidae ) Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica ) – A species we saw nearly daily except for the 5 th through the 8 th . The regional leucoptera subspecies has very little black on the tips of the wings, this being evident even in the white wing tips of perched birds. Mongolian Ground-Jay (Podoces hendersoni ) – Although we did not see this species spectacularly well, the experience of getting to their habitat was nothing but memorable. On the afternoon of the 7 th , we traversed some of the roughest habitat as carefully and strategically as our drivers and vehicles could manage the crevices, ditches and dunes of a terrain devoid of roads. The very

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 bumpy crawl was in search of these jays, and eventually we caught up with a pair foraging through a gorge. Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax ) – It was fun seeing this charismatic species nearly daily in a variety of habitats – except for the 3 rd and the 9 th . At times, particularly in Gun Galuut we saw flocks with hundreds of birds. Daurian Jackdaw (Corvus dauuricus ) – Jackdaws are rather compact corvids that may easily be overlooked as crows by the unaware. However, adults of the Daurian species have a vest-like pale-gray coloration to their bodies, contrasting with the black head, wings and tail. We saw a few on the 4 th , and many more on the 12 th and the 14 th , particularly in the outskirts of the capital. Rook ( Corvus frugilegus ) – We saw some on the 5 th , and large flocks on the 12 th outside of the capital. Carrion Crow ( Corvus corone ) – Seen on the 3 rd and 4 th , and the 10 th through the 12 th . Common Raven (Corvus corax ) – A species we saw every day, nearly wherever we went there was at least a pair of ravens.

Mongolian Lark in Gun Galuut. © Rafael Gálvez

Larks ( Alaudidae ) (Brandt’s) Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris brandti ) – A species we saw daily from the 6 th through the 14 th . The regional Brandt’s lacks the yellow coloration of the face as in nominate birds. Mongolian Lark (Melanocorypha mongolica ) – This is a large and beautifully patterned lark that we got to see bit by bit, at times managing great views as it moved quickly over the steppe. Found on the 11 th at Hustai and the 13 th and 14 th in Gun Galuut. Asian Short-toed Lark (Alaudala cheleensis ) – Seen briefly in Khovd on the 7 th , by Kholboo Lake and on the 11 th in Hustai. Eurasian Skylark ( Alauda arvensis ) – We saw this lark almost always on the move, as bands flew past and briefly paused over steppe on the 7 th , 10 th , 13 th and 14 th .

Swallows ( Hirundinidae ) Bank Swallow (Sand Martin) (Riparia riparia ) – We saw this species on the 6 th , 7 th , 9 th and 10 th in Khovd. Pale Sand Martin (Riparia diluta ) – This species is difficult to separate from Bank Swallow. On the 6 th , as we arrived to the shore of Lake Durgan we encountered feeding flocks of swallows, some of which were decidedly paler than the familiar Bank Swallow.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Eurasian Crag-Martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris ) – We saw this species only on the 9 th , as we descended from the Valley of Black Stone in Khovd. Barn Swallow ( Hirundo rustica ) – The familiar Barn Swallow breeds across the Northern Hemisphere and is represented by half a dozen subspecies that range in the color of males’ underparts from near-white in the Western Palearctic to deep rufous in northeastern Africa. The subspecies we primarily saw is the richly-colored tytleri , with deep orange underparts. We also saw some very pale birds that may have been the Eurasian H. r. rustica .

Tits, Chickadees & Titmice ( Paridae ) Willow Tit (Poecile montanus ) – Briefly seen and heard along the Tuul River on the 3 rd . Azure Tit (Cyanistes cyanus ) – This pretty tit species is common throughout northern Mongolia. We saw it on the 3 rd and 4 th along the Tuul River. Great Tit ( Parus major ) – The species is represented in Mongolia by two distinct subspecies. We only saw the nominate on the 3 rd and 4 th , with the typical yellow underparts.

Penduline-Tits ( Remizidae ) White-crowned Penduline-Tit ( Remiz coronatus ) – We saw these attractive, yet speedy and skulking marsh birds in groups by the Tuul River on the 4 th .

Nuthatches ( Sittidae ) Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea ) – A single bird was seen along the Tuul River on the 3 rd , presumably of the “white-bellied” asiatica subspecies.

Leaf Warblers ( Phylloscopidae ) Yellow-browed Warbler (Phylloscopus inornatus ) – A species that had been heard at times but was finally seen with certainty on the 8 th as we climbed up to Jargalant, in the bushes along the ascending gorge, interspersed with other warbler species. Hume's Warbler (Phylloscopus humei ) – One of the most frequently seen species of leaf warblers. We saw many on the 6 th as we birded through the Chandmani forest on our way towards Lake Durgan. We again saw the species on the 8 th and 9 th . Pallas's Leaf Warbler (Phylloscopus proregulus ) – We saw the species at Gun Galuut on the 13 th and 14 th . One bird frequented the trees and shrubs by the river next to our camp. Dusky Warbler (Phylloscopus fuscatus ) – We saw several individuals of the species rather often, on the 3rd and 4 th by the Tuul River, and on the 6 th and 8 th in Khovd, and the 12 th through the 14 th at Gun Galuut. Common (Siberian) Chiffchaff ( Phylloscopus collybita tristis ) – We saw this species in Khovd on the 9 th . Greenish Warbler (Phylloscopus trochiloides ) – We saw this species by the Tuul River on the 3 rd . Arctic Warbler (Phylloscopus borealis ) – We saw this species by the Tuul River on the 4 th .

Sylviids ( Sylviidae ) Lesser Whitethroat ( Sylvia curruca ) – We saw Lesser Whitethroats on the 3 rd through 5 th , and on the 8 th and 9 th .

Old World Flycatchers ( Muscicapidae ) Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata ) – We saw several in the Chandmani forest on the 6th , and again on the 9 th at the buckthorn plantation. Bluethroat ( Luscinia svecica ) – We saw one individual of this species – a winter male-type – at the Chandmani forest in Khovd. Siberian Rubythroat (Calliope calliope ) – On the 13 th at Gun Galuut we saw at least three individuals, with one stunning male seen by the river near our camp.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Taiga Flycatcher (Ficedula albicilla ) – We saw several individuals of the species on the 3 rd and 4 th near the Tuul River. White-winged (Güldenstädt’s) Redstart (Phoenicurus erythrogastrus ) – This handsome species was seen all too briefly from atop Jargalant on the 5 th , and really well on the 8 th , when two pairs were seen interacting as they foraged along the nearby cliff edges. Black Redstart ( Phoenicurus ochruros ) – The breeding subspecies is phoenicuroides , quite different from European birds, with a marked edge to a black head and breast, and a contrasting rufous belly and vent. In Khovd, we saw and heard the species from the 5 th through the 9 th . Daurian Redstart (Phoenicurus auroreus ) – We saw this attractive redstart on the 3 rd near the Tuul River, on the 6 th at Chandmani, and at Gun Galuut on the 13 th and 14 th . Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush (Monticola saxatilis ) – A single female-type bird was seen on the 5 th as we climbed Jargalant, in Khovd. Northern Wheatear ( Oenanthe oenanthe ) – This species is a widespread breeder throughout Eurasia, where it is typically referred as “The” Wheatear, for it is the sole species of this large genus found throughout much of its range. The name is a derivation of the old folk term “white arse,” referring to the white base of the tail, distinctive of the species. We saw the species during the mornings of the 5 th through the 7 th by our ger camp. Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka ) – We saw many individuals of this species around our ger camp at Khovd, from the 5 th through the 10 th , when many of us gathered to sort through the countless wheatears migrating through the area. Desert Wheatear ( Oenanthe deserti ) – This is a stunning wheatear; its desert-colored back contrasts the black throat and black bar adjoining through the flanks to the wings. We saw a few individuals right by our camp at Khovd on the mornings of the 5th through the 8 th , and on the 10 th . A beautiful species! Isabelline Wheatear ( Oenanthe isabellina ) – Due to its rather upright posture and bulkier size, this wheatear of the dry plains is quite distinctive, though it superficially resembles a non-breeding Northern Wheatear. It breeds across most of Mongolia and we saw it from the 5 th through the 10 th at Khovd, with many birds sweeping through our camp during the first days. We again saw it at Gun Galuut from the 12 th through the 14 th .

Four wheatear species were seen in Khovd including Pied, Isabelline, Northern (as shown above), and Desert. © Rafael Gálvez

Thrushes & Allies ( Turdidae ) Black-throated Thrush (Turdus atrogularis ) – We saw several individuals of this attractive species on the 6th as we birded through the Chandmani forest, Khovd – and again on the 8 th and 9 th as we explored the foothills of Jargalant.

Starlings ( Sturnidae ) European Starling ( Sturnus vulgaris ) – We saw this familiar species during five days – the 7th , 9th - 11 th and the 14 th .

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Accentors (Prunellidae ) Brown Accentor (Prunella fulvescens ) – This species was heard on the 5 th as we climbed Jargalant Mountain. We finally were able to get good looks at a bird on the 9 th as we descended from the Valley of Black Stone.

Wagtails & Pipits ( Motacillidae ) Gray Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea ) – We saw this attractive species on the 3 rd and 4 th near the Tuul River, on the 9 th at Khovd and from the 11 th through the 13 th in Gun Galuut. Western Yellow Wagtail ( Motacilla flava ) – On the 7 th and 9 th at Khovd, we saw individuals that were likely of the beema subspecies. Eastern Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla tschutschensis ) – We saw the species in Gun Galuut on the 12 th . White Wagtail ( Motacilla alba ) – We saw this species daily, with birds of the baicalensis subspecies seen around Ulaanbaatar east to Gun Galuut, and birds of the boldly plumaged “Masked” personata seen in Khovd. Richard's Pipit (Anthus richardi ) – In the grasses surrounding Kholboo lake on the 7 th and at the buckthorn plantation on the 9 th we got good views of a couple of individuals. Blyth's Pipit (Anthus godlewskii ) – This species was seen well around our camp at Gun Galuut on the 13 th . Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis ) – We found Tree Pipits on the 5 th and 6 th in Khovd. Olive-backed Pipit (Anthus hodgsoni ) – We found this species on the 4 th and on the 13 th . Water Pipit ( Anthus spinoletta ) – We found this species from the 5 th through the 9 th in Khovd. The blakistoni subspecies breeds in Mongolia.

“Masked” White Wagtails of the subspecies “personata” were seen in Khovd. Above adult and 1 st winter. © Rafael Gálvez

Finches, Euphonias & Allies ( Fringillidae ) Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus ) – We saw this species only on the 5 th along the Tuul River. Long-tailed Rosefinch (Carpodacus sibiricus ) – We was this charismatic species along the Tuul River on the 3rd . Mongolian Finch (Bucanetes mongolicus ) – We found this to be a common species in Khovd, were we saw it daily during our time there, from the 5 th through the 9 th . Usually, it was seen flying by in bands over our camp, but we also got to enjoy it at length at a couple of springs where birds would stop to drink and bathe. Twite (Linaria flavirostris ) – We saw the species in Khovd, better seen at springs where they would join other species – on the 5 th , 6 th and 9 th .

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Buntings & New World Sparrows ( Emberizidae ) Chestnut-eared Bunting (Emberiza fucata ) – Seen briefly in Khovd on the 9 th . Pine Bunting (Emberiza leucocephalos ) – We first encountered two distinct individuals of this species on the 4 th along the Khurkheree Valley, and again at Gun Galuut on the 12 th and 14 th . Gray-necked Bunting (Emberiza buchanani ) – Seen in Khovd at a spring on the 6 th and again at Gun Galuut on the 13 th . Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana ) – We saw a single bird on the morning of the 9 th along the gorge behind our ger camp in Khovd. Pallas's Bunting (Emberiza pallasi ) – Several birds were found along the foliage by the river at our Gun Galuut camp, where they allowed for prolonged views at their intricate and variable plumages. Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus ) – Seen at Gun Galuut on the 12 th . Little Bunting (Emberiza pusilla ) – Seen on the 3 rd along the Tuul River, and several more seen on the mornings of the 12 th through the 14 th as migrants landing on the foliage along the river near our camp. Black-faced Bunting (Emberiza spodocephala ) – Seen briefly in bushes near the dunes surrounding the Lunoba Camp on the morning of the 12 th .

Pallas’s Bunting at Gun Galuut. © Rafael Gálvez

Old World Sparrows ( Passeridae ) House Sparrow ( Passer domesticus ) – We saw this familiar species on the 4 th near the Tuul River, the 9 th at the buckthorn plantation, the 11 th and 12 th outside of the Lunoba Camp, and on the 14 th . Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus ) – Common and at times numerous, seen nearly every day except for the 5 th and 6 th , and the 8 th and 9 th .

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia ) – We saw this species often in Khovd – from the 5th through the 9 th , and at our Gun Galuut camp where they frequented the roofs of the buildings. White-winged Snowfinch (Montifringilla nivalis ) – We saw foraging flocks from atop Jargalant as they moved through the gorge below, flashing their boldly patterned wings. Pere David's Snowfinch (Montifringilla davidiana ) – One of the iconic species of the region, we got great looks a flocks at Gun Galuut.

Pere David’s Snowfinches at Gun Galuut. © Rafael Gálvez

LEADER-ONLY BIRDS (Including some seen by participants on their own within the capital) Common Sandpiper ( Actitis hypoleucus ) – At Khar Us Lake. Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopus major ) – In Ulaanbaatar. Azure-winged Magpie (Cyanopica cyanus ) – In Ulaanbaatar. Siberian Stonechat (Saxicola maura ) – At Gun Galuut, by the river at camp. Mongolian Accentor (Prunella koslowi ) – At Khovd, in a spring near ger camp. Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus ) – Heard flying over buckthorn plantation. Hawfinch (Coccothraustes coccothraustes ) – In Ulaanbaatar. Yellow-breasted Bunting (Emberiza aureola ) – In bushes outside of Lunoba Camp with other bunting species.

Favorite Experiences Voted by Tour Participants: 1. Our Snow Leopard experience in Jargalant Mountain took the highest number of votes. Nearly every member of the group voted for some version of the experience, whether it was seeing the actual leopard, and/or climbing up the mountain and getting that Altai experience that also included the spectacular scenery and a suite of animals only seen from atop Jargalant, including Siberian Ibex, Güldenstädt’s Redstart, Altai Snowcock and others. 2. The throat singers – or Khoomei singers – were an enthusiastic vote by most members of our group and got the second highest count. Many mentioned that the performance by Zolzaya Damba and Nansalmaa Nurdee was a very special moment in the tour – a wonderful surprise really – and that it beautifully echoed the expanse of the steppe (which also got votes). 3. The White-naped Cranes came in a close third place. We really couldn’t have gotten better views of that pair with their nearly-grown colt in the setting of Gun Galuut. 4. Honorable mentions were many including: Przewalski’s Horse, Lammergeier, the Eastern Mole Vole, Mongolian Ground Jay, Corsac Fox, Argali, Mongolian Gerbil, Brandt’s Vole, Swan Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Black Stork, Mongolian Lark and the Chinese Gray Shrikes.

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Argali (left – Gun Galuut) and Red Deer (right – Hustai). © Rafael Gálvez

MAMMALS

Hedgehogs ( Erinaceidae ) Daurian Hedgehog (Erinaceous dauricus ) – One rested on the side of the dirt road at Gun Galuut on the 12 th ; seen by the last two vehicles of our caravan.

Dogs ( Canidae ) Corsac Fox (Vulpes corsac ) – We had several fantastic views of this unusual and charismatic fox of the open steppe in Hustai on the 11 th , and Gun Galuut from the 12 th through the 14 th . Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes ) – Seen more briefly and at greater distances than Corsac Fox, on the 4 th and 6 th in Khovd, and on the 11 th in Hustai.

Cats ( Felidae ) Snow Leopard (Panthera uncia ) – We were very fortunate on the 5 th when many factors came into place, allowing us an unforgettable experience with a Snow Leopard from the atop Jargalant Mountain in the Mongol-Altai Range. Quickly weary about any kind of adverse weather, our local scouts in Khovd had encouraged us to remain in the lowlands during our first day in western Mongolia; apparently rain and wind were in the forecast. Mongolia is renowned for dramatic shifts in weather. All ready to go and vehicles loaded – with beautiful blue skies overhead – we somehow convinced our local scouts to go up the mountain to look for the Snow Leopard. The drive up the narrow gorge, which had bushes with plenty of migrants, and the massive rounded hills leading up to the jagged peak culminated in breathtaking views of an endless wild country. Our persistent efforts of scanning the many walls and crags, shared between all members of our group and the scouts was filled with enthusiasm and plenty of pauses for interesting birds. We couldn’t have been happier that final hour when a Snow Leopard was detected, almost miraculously, as if carved from the rock that surrounded it. We watched if for about an hour and left as the sun began to set. To our knowledge, the scouts did not see another Snow Leopard during the rest of our time in western Mongolia! The Snow Leopard is also known as the Ounce, from the Old French term once . Until recently it was classified in the monotypic genus Uncia , yet recent phylogenetic studies have revealed it a member of the Panthera genus.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 31 Snow Leopards of Mongolia 2019 Weasels and Allies ( Mustelidae ) Stoat (Mustela erminea ) – On the morning of the 5 th , one Stoat on a pile of rubble near our ger camp frenetically chased the many wheatears that migrated over the steppe and landed nearby.

Horses ( Equidae ) Przewalski's Horse (Equus przewalskii ) – An animal iconic of the steppe; many of us have long looked forward to encounters with these horses, particularly in a place like Mongolia, where the horse in held in very high regard. We saw many of these wild horses in Hustai on the 11 th . Watching their group dynamics and interactions was one of the highlights of the tour.

Deer (Cervidae ) Red Deer (Cervus elaphus ) – On the 11 th at Hustai, we saw a large group of bucks with large antlers move in single file along the hill tops.

Cattle, Sheep, Antelopes (Bovidae) Goitered Gazelle (Gazella subgutturosa ) – We caught several views of fleeting Goitered Gazelles on the move, across large expanses in Khovd; on the 6 th , 9 th and 10 th . Mongolian Gazelle (Procapra gutturosa ) – We saw this species in Hustai on the 11 th . A species found primarily in eastern Mongolia. Siberian Ibex (Capra sibirica ) – We got good views of two bearing very large back-curved horns on the 7th from the top of Jargalant. Argali (Ovis ammon ) – We saw four males – with massive horns that curled at the sides of their heads more than 360 degrees – at Gun Galuut on the 13 th . Saiga Antelope (Saiga tatarica tatarica ) – As we drove across the extensive plains surrounding Lake Durgan in Khovd on the 6 th , we came across a few groups of distant Saiga, running with their tell- tale downward heads. They displaced across the flat stretch too fast for us to approach closer.

Mongolian Gazelles at Hustai. © Rafael Gálvez

Squirrels (Sciuridae ) Tarbagan Marmot (Marmota sibirica ) – Seen well at several locations including the 5 th , 8 th and 9 th in Khovd and better still in Hustai on the 11 th and Gun Galuut on the 13 th . Long-tailed Suslik (Spermophilus undulatus ) – We saw some of these faintly spotted ground squirrels around the Tuul River on the 4 th and at Gun Galuut on the 13 th .

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Jerboas (Dipodidae ) Mongolian Five-toed Jerboa (Allactaga sibirica ) – Seen all-too-briefly by some during nocturnal visits to the bathroom at our ger camp in Khovd. Unfortunately, our visit to Khovd coincided with a full moon – a period when small animals may be too visible to potential predators – and jerboa activity was low.

Gerbils (Gerbillidae ) Mongolian Gerbil (Meriones unguiculcatus ) – Seen well in Gun Galuut on the 11 th and 13 th .

Hamsters, Voles, Lemmings ( Cricetidae ) Eastern Mole Vole (Ellobius tancrei ) – One was seen by all on the 6 th , at the Chandmani forest. When we first encountered this busy rodent, we only got glimpses of its dark snout, large incisors and otherwise brown-gray pelage as it pushed soil up from underground. We thought it might be a zokor species, but something did not fit. After persistent investigation, Attila found our answer in one of his books. Brandt’s Vole ( Lasiopodomys brandtii ) – Arguably one of the most numerous wild animals seen during the tour. In Hustai and Gun Galuut, from the 11 th through the 14 th we saw countless as they emerged from their burrows across broad stretches of steppe.

Pallas’s Pika in Khovd. © Rafael Gálvez

Pikas (Ochotonidae ) Daurian Pika (Ochotona daurica ) – We got good views of one by the Tuul River on the 4 th , as it worked hard on the creation of hay mounds distinctive of the species. We saw Daurian Pika mounds also in Hustai, on the 11 th . Pallas’s Pika (Ochotona pallasi ) – A species we saw many times and very well, particularly from our ger camp in Khovd, for many kept burrows throughout the slopes that surrounded us. They could be seen each morning enjoying the sun, or interacting, engaged in chases or in boxing rituals. A fun species to watch! Khovd from the 5 th through the 10 th .

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Rabbits and Hares (Leporidae ) Tolai Hare (Lepus tolai ) – Seen on the 4 th , 5 th , 7 th and 9 th in Khovd, the 11 th in Hustai and the 13 th in Gun Galuut. Arctic Hare (Lepus timidus ) – Seen on the 8 th in Khovd.

Domestic Animals of note Bactrian Camel (Camelus bactrianus ) – This large camelid had been domesticated for thousands of years and is a widespread pack animals used throughout the Asian steppe. By contrast, the extremely rare Wild Bactrian Camel ( Camelus ferus ) is a smaller resident of true deserts, with extreme tolerance to dry habitats. Taxonomists generally consider that the two forms descended from divergent camel ancestors, that of the domestic form being extinct. Domestic Yak (Bos grunniens ) – The Domestic Yak is a descendant of the Wild Yak (Bos mutus ) found throughout the Himalayas, the Tibetan Plateau, Mongolia and Siberia.

REPTILES Toad-headed Agama ( Phrynocephalus versicolor ) – We saw several of these minute and variable agamas in Khovd on the 6 th and 9 th .

Brandt’s Voles were a common sight in Gun Galuut. © Rafael Gálvez

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