Northumberland and the Farne Islands

Naturetrek Tour Report 3 - 8 June 2010

Puffin Roseate Tern

Sandwich Tern Razorbill

Report compiled by Mike Hodgson and Alan Curry

Images by Alan Curry

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Northumberland and the Farne Islands

Tour Leaders: Mike Hodgson Alan Curry

Participants: Miriam Smith Teresa Hurley Bill Nicks Pamela Nicks Alan Whitwell Moira Gallagher Ann Dale Tricia Baker Dianna Pettet

Day 1 Thursday 3rd June

Most of the party met at Newcastle Central Station in the early afternoon before we drove northwards along the Northumberland Coastal Route. A quick look at a roadside flash near Lynemouth produced a small group of Mallard and five summer-plumaged Dunlins lingering on their northward migration. Our first main stop was at Cresswell Pond nature reserve at Druridge Bay. The pond next to the road held three Shelduck broods of varying ages, a number of Sand Martins and Swallows hawking low over the water while a couple of Grey Herons flew in. A Sandwich Tern arrived over the dunes for a brief visit. Driving on we soon stopped (briefly) to look at a female Marsh Harrier which had flown over the road near Widdrington before moving off north.

At another roadside stop near Amble on the Coquet Estuary we were treated to a number of crèches of Eiders totalling about 72 or more ducklings being attended by several ducks or ‘aunties’! Slightly larger were a pair of Shelduck floating downriver with a brood of eight ducklings. The only waders found however, were five Ringed Plovers, and a single Curlew.

A slightly longer stop still further north at Cullernose Point allowed us to walk along the cliff top path towards the large Kittiwake colony on the impressive cliff there. Many birds were present on their nests and Fulmars wheeled close by and almost overhead. On the flat sea we picked up a number of auks allowing side-by-side comparison of Guillemots and Razorbills. A pair of Rock Pipits was calling noisily down below us on the rocks while a Yellowhammer sat patiently with a bill full of green caterpillars for its nestlings as we passed close by.

Eventually we arrived at our hotel in Seahouses where we met up with the remaining three party members who had driven there independently.

Day 2 Friday 4th June

After breakfast we set off towards Bamburgh but stopped just north of Seahouses at Monks House Pool. It was a little misty this morning but there were a good number of hirundines, particularly Sand Martins, and several swifts feeding over the pool. A pair of Tufted Ducks was messing about and a few Sandwich Terns flew in.

Northumberland and the Farne Islands Tour Report

We searched through a small gull flock in the fields but could only find Herring, Lesser Black-backed, Black- headed and a single Common Gull. Sedge Warblers and Reed Bunting were singing and a fine male Stonechat perched on a nearby fence post.

With the tide still quite high we bypassed Budle Bay and continued to Holy Island where we soon crossed the long causeway and drove into the village. We walked down towards the harbour seeing various small birds like Linnets and Goldfinches but the Harbour Pools held little but a few gulls and a couple of sleeping Teal! A walk across and up on to the Heugh gave everyone a good impression of how large the Lindisfarne NNR really is and the falling tide exposed more and more sandflats and mud that are thronged with birds during the winter months. Today though, as a sand bar became exposed we became aware of very large numbers of Grey Seals hauling out. We estimated that about 500 animals were present and their peculiar calling could just be heard above the strengthening wind. A small group of Shags were in the channel below and a few Fulmars skimmed by although waders were represented only by a few Oystercatchers and Curlew.

As the weather began to clear the party then went off to have lunch and explore the village and Priory. In the afternoon we walked out to the castle but birds were rather quiet with more Fulmars exhibiting their flying skills in the by-now strong south easterly wind and a pair of Rock Pipits. We continued round to the lime kilns and then back to the village via the walled garden where there were plenty of visitors but no migrants!

We retreated from the island and stopped by Budle Bay on the way back to the hotel. Here, there was a gathering of 53 non-breeding Shelducks and a crèche of about 20 Eider ducklings attended as always by several females. In among a small group of sleeping Mallard we picked out an un-expected female Tufted Duck and across the bay a lone Common Buzzard was seen.

Day 3 Saturday 5th June

Today was the first of our excursions by boat to cross to the Farne Islands just offshore from Seahouses. The weather was glorious with blue skies and sunshine and perhaps more important a flat calm sea! After stocking up on our picnic lunches in the village we assembled in the harbour and boarded the MV Glad Tidings. Heading between the piers we soon started to see our first seabirds with Shags and Guillemots and a number of Puffins all flying back towards the islands with food for their youngsters. We passed the first of the inner group of islands, Inner Farne, and then slowed down to drift just off the East Wideopens where we could see the small Cormorant colony complete with a number of nests containing youngsters. Whilst here, we had some sightings of inquisitive Grey Seals peering at the boat.

Continuing on further offshore we encountered more and more birds with very large numbers of terns visible over Inner Farne where the wardens were busy doing the first of their census counts. We arrived at the first island of the outer group, Staple Island, where our boatman took the boat very close into a narrow area between the low cliffs to give us a close-up impression of the sheer numbers of seabirds breeding here. The ledges were packed, literally, with nesting Guillemots and Kittiwakes and a good scattering of Shags. Here and there we could pick out a few Razorbills and everyone could start to appreciate (is that the correct word?) the noise and smells that come with large seabird colonies!

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Northumberland and the Farne Islands Tour Report

We floated under the lee of the ‘Pinnacles’ where Guillemots packed the flat tops of the rocky stacks and then sailed around to the north of Brownsman Island where the skipper related the tale of Grace Darling & her father and their famous rescue of survivors from the stricken ship SS Forfarshire. Eventually we pulled in to the landing site on the north side of Staple and went ashore ably assisted by the National Trust wardens. We spent the next couple of hours just taking in the sheer spectacle of thousands of seabirds that are nesting on the island and everywhere Puffins flying in and out overhead, bills full of fish! You really are at just arms length from Kittiwakes, Shags, Guillemots, Razorbills and of course those Puffins! A photographers dream! Many of the birds had small young in their nests while others were still incubating eggs. The Shags had a great range from full clutches to three-quarter grown youngsters. A couple of Eiders sat stoically on their nests while visitors passed by just feet away. We had a little scan through to the Guillemots to pick out several of the ‘bridled’ form, something you probably wouldn’t see on a seawatch! Lesser Black-backed and Black-headed Gulls were scattered around the entrances to Puffin burrows intent on robbing some unsuspecting bird returning with a full load of sand eels. Several of the party were lucky enough to see an unexpected Iceland Gull as it flew over nearby Brownsman Island. Land birds were not completely absent in seabird city as we saw both Pied Wagtails and Rock Pipits collecting food for their young.

Eventually we had to board the boat again and sailed in towards the inner group of islands, with rafts of auks alongside, to land on the concrete jetty at Inner Farne. Another couple of hours ashore and within seconds you realise why it is best to always wear a hat here. As soon as we walked up towards the island top the Arctic Terns nesting right on the side of the path started to take exception and dive bombed us! Everyone in our party had been pre-warned though and heads were well covered! The grassy central meadow on the island contains the main part of the Arctic Tern colony although others are nesting on the beaches and also along the well-mown paths! Right in the centre was the breeding site for the Sandwich Terns and there was a constant procession of birds arriving noisily with fish for their mates. Just alongside the path were a couple of obvious pairs of incubating Common Terns so good close-up comparisons between the species could be made. On the north side of the island there is a large Puffin colony and we certainly didn’t get jaded just watching these birds coming and going. The cliffs on the west side allowed good views from a high vantage point of more Kittiwakes, Shags, Guillemots and Razorbills. The weather was absolutely fabulous with glorious sunshine and little wind all day, perfect conditions for an island visit.

All too soon it was time to leave and as we crossed back through the sound towards Seahouses in the company of many of the breeding species we saw several small groups of Gannets heading north to their breeding site at Bass Rock in the Firth of Forth. Everyone agreed that it had been a fantastic day!

Day 4 Sunday 6th June

What a difference a day makes! And today dawned overcast with fog over the choppy sea and a stiff easterly breeze. Still, we were booked on a boat trip to Coquet Island so we set off southwards to Amble Harbour. Everyone was well cushioned against any kind of weather we might face with fleeces, etc. topped off with waterproof jackets and over-trousers. More like winter wear than summer gear! We boarded the boat and proceeded out between the low piers while watching Eiders and a few Sandwich Terns fishing inside the harbour. Once out of the lee the sea took on a rather bumpy outlook for both birds and birders. As we approached Coquet Island there were more and more birds visible flying about.

Northumberland and the Farne Islands Tour Report

The island is an RSPB reserve but because it is so low, landing is not permitted due to the disturbance it would cause to the nesting seabirds. As we approached the west side of the island we were more or less sheltered from the wind and waves and we hove to just off the island and scanned through the hordes of birds milling about. Very quickly we picked up some Roseate Terns, one or two sitting quite close-by on the flat rocks and others preening and resting by the ‘nest-boxes’ that have been provided on the cliff-side ledges. We had superb views of these beautiful terns, many exhibiting a good pink flush on the breast. We could also pick them out by their distinctive calls from the general hubbub of the other birds. There were lots of Sandwich and Common Terns about this side of the island together with some Arctics and if anyone had missed Puffins on the Farnes yesterday (not!) then today brought another blizzard of birds flying in and out of their colony! Guillemots and Razorbills, Eiders, Black-headed Gulls and Fulmars made up some of the supporting cast on view.

After a while we sailed slowly around the south end of the island scanning the rocks and low shore and as we headed out to the north point a few inquisitive Grey Seals joined us. A few loafing Shelduck and Oystercatchers were on the rocks. We returned to the sheltered side and spent even more time just watching the Roseates and all the other birds before we had to return, well-satisfied, to Amble for lunch.

After lunch the weather began to deteriorate as we headed northwards to High Newton. We parked the vehicles and decided to walk along the links to another tern colony at the Long Nanny. As we arrived at the warden’s hut and watch-point it started to rain but that did not deter us from looking over the 700 or so pairs of Arctic Terns nesting on the beach. Unfortunately the wind was also getting up and it was difficult to keep optics clean and dry to see the incubating Little Terns crouched down on their nest scrapes in the inclement conditions. Eventually we admitted defeat and walked back along the rather exposed beach in unpleasant wet conditions. Even so we think everyone returned to the hotel happy with the days’ events!

Day 5 Monday 7th June

The generally overcast conditions persisted but at least the heavy rain had stopped as we paid a quick visit to Monks House Pool after breakfast. There was little change from our previous visit so we moved on to Budle Bay. There were a few Curlews and Oystercatchers and the usual numbers of Shelduck out on the flats. Just across the road we watched at close range a pair of Whitethroats feeding their brood in a well-hidden nest at the bottom of a bramble patch.

Driving west we stopped in Wooler to buy our picnic lunches and continued in to the Cheviots through the delightfully named Skirl Naked and into the Harthope Valley. At the first bridge there was plenty of bird song with Chiffchaffs and Willow Warblers, a Grey Wagtail and a couple of Common Buzzards drifting by. A singing Whinchat remained invisible among the gorse and broom but a pair of Oystercatchers looked out-of-place perched on top of fence posts!

We drove up to the end of the road near the Hawsen Burn and decided to walk up the valley despite the low cloud cover as we gained height. A small party of Siskins were feeding in alders almost over our heads, Goldcrests and Blackcaps were singing in the pines and a couple of broods of Red Grouse were located on the hillsides. A Woodcock suddenly appeared walking down the river bank just opposite but quickly disappeared into the gloomy woods.

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Northumberland and the Farne Islands Tour Report

The rain was steadily increasing as we walked further up the track but up to three Common Snipe were display- flighting over the hillside in the atmospheric misty conditions. Lesser Redpolls bounced overhead and Spotted Flycatcher and Coal Tit were seen. We retreated back to the vehicles and drove slowly back down the valley stopping occasionally to check the river. As we reached slightly lower ground the weather improved and we decided to walk up the Carey Burn. A Cuckoo being mobbed by several Meadow Pipits flew into an isolated bush but never appeared again! Eventually the rain stopped and we had good views of Dipper perched up on a large boulder. A brood of Wheatears were making their first appearance outside of a nest hole in some scree and a fine male Whinchat sat atop a hawthorn. Two Ravens croaked their way across the valley and ten minutes later retraced their flight path. Eventually we had to drive back across to the coast, stopping for a quick look at Budle Bay, and then to the hotel.

Day 6 Tuesday 8th June

The last day and Teresa, Bill and Pamela were driving home in their own cars while everyone else loaded their gear into our two vehicles and we set off down the coastal route for Newcastle. Brief stops at Boulmer and the Coquet Estuary were relatively quiet, although we did pick up several Gannets at the former and a late Knot at the latter, so we decided to call in at East Chevington Nature Reserve. Luckily, within minutes we were watching a day-hunting Barn Owl over the reed beds and then a female Marsh Harrier flew in and landed in a tree opposite our viewing point. A walk down to the hide overlooking the north pool was productive and added several species to the trip list. A couple of Reed Warblers were singing in the phragmites, about five 1st summer Little Gulls were loafing on a spit with some terns, waders were represented by Dunlin and Ringed Plover while the ducks included Gadwall, Teal, Shoveler and Wigeon.

With time starting to run out we drove on to Newcastle Central Station in time for everyone’s train connections and the end of the tour which had been very successful. There can’t be many places where, in just a few days, you can see all five regular British breeding species of tern and enough Puffins to more than satisfy everyone!

Many thanks from both of us to all the party members who really made the tour such a success.

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Northumberland and the Farne Islands Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (H = heard only)

June Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 Mute Swan Cygnus olor      2 Greylag Goose Anser anser   3 Greater Canada Goose Branta canadensis  4 Shelduck Tadorna tadorna      5 Wigeon Anas penelope  6 Gadwall Anas strepera  7 Teal Anas crecca  8 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos       9 Shoveler Anas clypeata  10 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula     11 Eider Somateria mollissima       12 Red Grouse Lagopus lagopus  13 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa  14 Grey Partridge Perdix perdix   15 Pheasant Phasianus colchicus   16 Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis     17 Gannet Morus bassanus    18 Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo      19 Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis    20 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea       21 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus   22 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo   23 Kestrel Falco tinnunculus   24 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus    25 Coot Fulica atra    26 Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus       27 Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula     28 Lapwing Vanellus vanellus    29 Knot Calidris canutus  30 Dunlin Calidris alpina   31 Snipe Gallinago gallinago  32 Woodcock Scolopax rusticola  33 Curlew Numenius arquata     34 Redshank Tringa totanus  35 Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla      36 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus       37 Little Gull Hydrocoloeus minutus  38 Common Gull Larus canus  39 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus      40 Herring Gull Larus argentatus       41 Iceland Gull Larus glaucoides  42 Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus     43 Little Tern Sternula albifrons  44 Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis       45 Common Tern Sterna hirundo      46 Roseate Tern Sterna dougallii  47 Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea   

Northumberland and the Farne Islands Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 7 8 48 Guillemot Uria aalge    49 Razorbill Alca torda    50 Puffin Fratercula arctica   51 Feral Pigeon Columba livia       52 Woodpigeon Columba palumbus      53 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto    54 Cuckoo Cuculus canorus  55 Barn Owl Tyto alba  56 Swift Apus apus      57 Skylark Alauda arvensis     58 Sand Martin Riparia riparia      59 Swallow Hirundo rustica       60 House Martin Delichon urbicum       61 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis      62 Rock Pipit Anthus petrosus     63 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea  64 Pied Wagtail Motacilla alba      65 Dipper Cinclus cinclus  66 Wren Troglodytes troglodytes  67 Dunnock Prunella modularis   68 Robin Erithacus rubecula   69 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra  70 Stonechat Saxicola torquatus    71 Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe  72 Blackbird Turdus merula       73 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos    74 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus  75 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus H H H  76 Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus H 77 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla H 78 Whitethroat Sylvia communis  79 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita  80 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus  81 Goldcrest Regulus regulus H 82 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata  83 Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus    84 Great Tit Parus major  85 Coal Tit Periparus ater  86 Magpie Pica pica   87 Jackdaw Corvus monedula       88 Rook Corvus frugilegus      89 Carrion Crow Corvus corone       90 Raven Corvus corax  91 Starling Sturnus vulgaris       92 House Sparrow Passer domesticus       93 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs    94 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris   95 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis    96 Siskin Carduelis spinus  97 Linnet Carduelis cannabina    98 Lesser Redpoll Carduelis cabaret 

Northumberland and the Farne Islands Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 7 8 99 Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella  100 Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus    