3/13 Meininger’s WB I T winemakers ofthepastcentury. Ages, saysMichèle Italy’s numberonewine-producing region hasaheritagethatgoesbacktobefore theMiddle varieties, blendsand styles. of anunlimited ofgrape range tion, which allowed use for the ofthe creation the 1970swith inthe rose that The came known as be- controversial winesthat of the source original ulations were alsothe be found. ’s- reg restrictive production region’sgiovese dominates the isto reds that expressiongreatest of the the where is andthis viniculture, nucleus ofTuscan Castello diBrolio. harmony,” explains Francesco and byclean winescharacterised structure of being able to basic produce “ today conveys anew That tradition. arena. international the respected within are day, Tuscany’s styles unique andhighquality ing new To region. money into andtalent the - - attract coastal ofBolgheri, area ciano andthe it quickly to spread Montepul Montalcino, - ofTuscany,revival heart was Chianti,the but oenological ofthis tional class.Theepicentre new styles with itage - inwinesofinterna estate reinventedAntinori a600-year her influentialMarchesi whenthe in cally asTuscany began has.Therenaissance evolved, over past 30years, asdynami- the extraordinary harmony andbeauty. shaped over into centuries alandscapeof civilisation hillsides, evidence ofarural scenicvineyardstour the the grace that Siena, PisaandSanGimignanowilloften loving visitors whocometo seeFlorence, for fine,classicwines. Even non-wine- dependent on the traditional traditional dependent on the aren’t ofwinesthat category N G S Who’s Who angiovese, aphenomenon are eografica Tipica) denomina- eografica o Chianti and Chianti Classico remain the the Chianti andClassicoremain S ther ther simply becauseofitsreputation andnotone wine-producingregion, uscany isindisputably Italy’s number uper Tuscans, an unofficial an unofficial uper Tuscans, I talian wine-producing region has has region wine-producing talian IG S T ( uper Tuscans. uper Tuscans. Who’s WhoinTuscany I ndicazione ndicazione S R icasoli C hah. S cockerel emblem. recognized bytheblack canbeClassico Consorzio Wines fromChianti angiovese; S E S O of O of ome oftheoldestnameshavebeenmostrevolutionary an- -

becomes asignificant inestablished force and presence their promoting sothat abroad, joinforces when often consortiums Tuscan 560members. with consorzios, mostneck; dynamic it’s oneofthe considered blackby cockerel the bottle- emblemonthe canberecognised Chianti ClassicoConsorzio Wines from ground”. hisfeet onthe man with by Frescobaldi as“a Lamberto Bani, described and 10,500haofvines. 2,500members Chianti,with Consorzio is the zio Chianti.Thelargest inTuscany consorzio and Consor di Montalcino Brunello Consorzio inTuscany ers ChiantiClassico, Consorzio are improvementthe ofquality. top play Thethree as well asimplementing research for projects to vineyard promotion andsales, through the from ofproduction quality regulate the that powerful, are officialbodies The consortiums belongtoareas consortium. arepresentative appellation different inthe Almost allwineries consortiums The mostinfluential S the estates Tenutathe andTenuta dell’Ornellaia standing, from suchof international asthose to which Montalcino, to hasgiven wines rise steep climbandseveral bendstakes you on between and Florence of Tuscany, heart winds its way the through Chiantigiana,which wineroutetant isthe and 11DOC an Today, Tuscany encompasses some42DOC G uido. emerging markets.emerging in “Fragmentation production and promotionproduction - is a prob lem throughout lem throughout G at a time of economic crisis,” at atimeofeconomiccrisis,” rector of the Chianti Classico ChiantiClassico rector ofthe says litical roles and are often called called often andare litical roles tive markets.” ininternational beingcompeti helpswith - bers, togetherwhich itsmem- groups consortium, of the role fore the - since1992.“There Consorzio appellations.Themost impor Consorzio directorshaveConsorzio po- G iuseppe Liberatore, di- 50 I t’s managed by Marco S iena. From I taly, especially S iena a iena a - - -

members and is the only in consorzio andisthe members where 100% of its producers are members. members. are 100%ofitsproducers where S tolast its pioneer, 50 years, thanks Biondi roir, which hasreally only developed over the cino asbeingaworld-renowned, ter unique - since1990.HeseesMontal cino Consorzio Campatelli- Montal hasbeendirector ofthe directors andvoted inby itsmembers. gies, which have by beenproposed of aboard implementing guidelinesandstrate project - nation- Federdoc, the seatofthe o the DOC protection for of DOC and the al headquarters to tles ofBrunello. some6,500bot produce planted- to Brunello, Tachis. S of most notable andhistoric winecompanies. ofMarchesi de’ Frescobaldi, oneof part 100% Merlot Tenuta from today dell’Ornellaia, national style wines,such asiconicMasseto, a boasts area anumberofinter TheBolgheri as can wines’. manbehind labels such Heisthe lot to ofcredit company’s Tuscany alsoowes headquarters. a architectural which project, hasbecomethe di Pesa, amassive investment andaunique cellarin metre underground completed buildingofa 300,000-cubic- the first very now world-famous , oneofthe ofhis production wasblends. Theresult the varieties and new grape with experiment Tuscany in first producers was oneofthe to fluential winemakers. region’s isone ofthe most in- Piero and winemakers Most influentialwineries I forts with Bordeaux-blends that Tuscany that at- Bordeaux-blends with forts and Antinori isTenuta samearea the of ‘father known Antinori, as the ts 3,500 ha ofvineyard, ofwhich 2,100are anti. Today has 250 consorzio Montalcino assicaia, a Cabernet assicaia, aCabernet R S N ome t assicaia, Tignanello and G icolò wines. The directors are responsible for responsible wines.Thedirectorsare I t’s thanks to such pioneers asTachis,t’s thanks I S ncisa della uper Tuscans. uper Tuscans. I ncisa, and their pioneering ef- pioneering ncisa, andtheir G iacomo Tachis, winemaker to I S R n the 1960s, Antinori 1960s,Antinori n the auvignon created by occ S an R hetta, famous for S S ecentl olaia. olaia. G an CascianoVal uido, property uido, property S y Antinori y Antinori - uper Tus S t I efano efano taly’s I taly taly I n n - -

and timeitde Tuscany. which fame of have great to contributed the winemakers,Tuscan estates, andnumerous worthy innumerable of course, are, There Castello diAma. winery Tuscan says Pallanti Marco niche winemaker ofthe wines,”because hegave concept ofCru usthe Classico; and backsible for dignityto bringing Chianti R to really believe in first winemakersTuscany in 2013), oneofthe di quality; Bion- sacrificing without ing numbers - a vision, capable of produc a man with tinori, terroirs. search ofgreat andCastagnetoties inMontalcino in Carducci, Angelo wines attracted winemakers suchthese as 1980s.Thepotentialthe beingexpressed by attention,tracted especially international in tion with Florence and Arezzo’s Agrobiologia andArezzo’s Florence Agrobiologia tion with scious of‘zonation’.- incollabora Thismonth, resulted inanew wine. almost extinct the Pugnitello has varietal with Tuscany’s indigenous Their work varietals. to project dyingclonesof revive someofthe tosity ofFlorence embark onanexperimental positively to Univer madeby aproposal the varietals, ternational’ attention to plantingnew ‘in- vineyards with 1980s, whenmost ofTuscany it was turning S Research andwinemakers a 600-yearheritage. Antinori estate,reinvented Piero Antinori,Marchesi an Felice winery stands out for the energy energy stands outforan Felicethe winery - pillarof Chianti,respon icasoli, whoisthe S “Tuscany shouldpay homage to An- Piero Castello hasalways diBrolio con- beenvery anti, (whopassedaway recently, inApril G aja in the 1990stoaja invest inthe inproper votes to research. I ncisa della S S angiovese; Francesco an Felice responded

consorzio since1990. consorzio director oftheMontalcino Stefano Campatelli hasbeen I n the mid mid n the R occ hetta - -

in-dep r also considered oneof also considered owner ofArezzo’s LaTagliatella Osteria da hisown restaurant, alsoruns 2007. Martini melier in2009,andBest sommelierin Tuscan title of best titles, including the ofwinning hasasolidtrackalready record World’s‘The Best I Most influentialsommeliers labels under the selected By1982,Pallanti tare. was producing already off, to plantasmany as8,000vinesperhec- 1984, even research took project before the back first pioneers di Amawas in oneofthe Pallantianti Classicoblend.Marco ofCastello and Malvasia Colorino of selected clonesof studytechniques to andthe limitsoilerosion management andbetter rootstocks, aswell as suchprocedures, asdenserplanting,soil ties. andPisauniversi Florence - conjunction with in 1987andpromoted in Consorzio, by the research started project, important another soil andclimate,” explains C giovese vinewhich isextremely sensitive to allowed usto understandeven better our yards, down to study each has “This parcel. research centre, under the label‘l’Apparita’.under the to in1985, aworld-acclaimed produce, Merlot, Tuscan winemaker first andwas the Bertinga, n April 2013,32-year-old wasn April Luca Martini ecognised atLondon’s Park LaneHotel as The Chianti Classico 2000 Project wasThe ChiantiClassico2000Project I t focused on creating better agronomic t focused better oncreating agronomic th study on the zonation of their vine- zonationoftheir study onthe th S G angiovese single-vineyard wines iovanna, Cini, Cristiano inArezzo. Consorzio since1992. Consorzio of theChiantiClassico Giuseppe Liberatore, director R icasoli will be publishing an icasoli willbepublishingan S an Lorenzo, Casuccia and Casucciaand an Lorenzo, S ommelier 2013’. Martini 51 I N S taly’s most influential angiovese, Canaiolo, er a, used in the Chi- a, used in the E O R R icasoli. I es talian talian taurant is is taurant S S om- an- fresh, lightingredients. fresh, noheavy seafood, sauces,butjust with ranean wild coastline. style ChefZazzeri’s isMediter beachfront setting perfect onMaremma’sthe bona, LaPineta isMichelin-starred area atBib- gheri overwine list, featuring 700labels. anexcellenttextures. carries Therestaurant alighttouchwith andfocusing onflavours and whichers, focuses cuisineprepared onTuscan Colle diVal d’ in is2-star Arnolfo, countryside Tuscan to the an interesting of French range wines.Moving have oneofTuscany’s top winelists, alongwith located inthe Cibreo, isMichelin-starred based restaurant favourite140,000 labels.Another Florence- world’sboasts oneofthe over top with cellars fortable itsexcellent cuisine,andbecauseit based 3-star Florence– butthe restaurants, starred Michelin-Tuscany hasanumberofgreat Most influentialrestaurants competition.” and play asoneteam, upagainst worldwide time hascomefor allofTuscany to joinforces However, we can’t just the sitonourlaurels; andsublimewines. ed by magnificent terroirs plus,” says Cini.“We lucky- are to besurround petitions. Tuscany “Comingfrom a isalready com- nationalandinternational lier) intheir ofA board forposition, asresponsible himhiscurrent 2006, 2007and2008earned Best the upin asrunner Hisexperience sommeliers. couple ofbottles underarm,”says Cini. wines. “ and animpressive knowledge ofall than 1,200labels which more Cortona, offers selection,asdoes Tuscan historic pressive selectionofover the 3,000vintages; best in calling itoneofthe tini place tepulciano; and E Chianti; G Fiaschetteriaare: de’ labelsandvintages, ofTuscan range for their R Notable wineshops noteca ecommended specialis nicche Casa Porciatti atArezzo; at S ommeliers Cristiano CiniandLuca Mar Cristiano ommeliers G E aja’s favourite which restaurant, enjoys N E noteca Pinchiorri is particularly no- noteca is particularly Pinchiorri G I I noteca offers Bonatti inFlorence top Terzi and o visit talian talian allo E IS noteca above Marcucci allothers, (Associazione E S N lsa, owned Trovato by- the broth . Ambrogio market,. Ambrogio andsaidto E or comes out with less than a a lessthan or comesoutwith er S noteca LaFortezza. ommelier championships in o at S G an Domenicoat R reve; OinocoéatMon- t wineshops,notable edi andLaT E noteca Molesini in Tusc I I taliana taliana I taly’s technical taly for itsim- I n the Bol- n the R S a adda in orre di di orre

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3/13 Meininger’s WBi