Online Sales Guide,” Provides In-Depth Information on Activities, Regions and Itineraries for You to Reference During the Course and in Your Future Work in Namibia

This course will introduce you to Namibia’s endless horizons and provide you with knowledge, sales tips and web references to help you sell the destination to your clients. This “Online Sales Guide,” provides in-depth information on activities, regions and itineraries for you to reference during the course and in your future work in Namibia.

This guide accompanies the online course, which is composed of three modules and three quizzes. You must receive 80% or higher on the quizzes to pass to the next section. After successful completion of the course you can download a certificate and logo to add to your website. Please contact the Namibia Tourism Board for more information about the benefits for our Certified Namibian Destination Specialists. People of Namibia ...... 34 TABLE OF CONTENTS Food/Drink ...... 38 Crafts ...... 39 Three Things You Need to Know About Namibia ...... 5 Festivals/Events ...... 40 Adventure ...... 42 What Are Others Saying About Namibia? ...... 5 Responsible Tourism in Namibia ...... 42 Uniquely Namibian Experiences ...... 6 Communal Conservancies ...... 42 Adventure Races ...... 6 Eco-Awards Namibia ...... 42 Rhino tracking ...... 7 Black Economic Empowerment ...... 43 Birding ...... 7 Volunteering ...... 43 Paragliding ...... 8 Cultural Tourism ...... 44 Golfing ...... 8 Fish River Canyon ...... 8 Walvis Bay Lagoon ...... 8 Getting Here & Around ...... 44 Entry Requirements ...... 44 Fun Facts About Namibia ...... 9 Getting To Namibia ...... 45 Regions of Namibia ...... 10 Air Namibia ...... 45 The Capital City ...... 10 Getting around by Plane ...... 45 Central Region ...... 15 Ground Transport ...... 46 South Region ...... 15 Car Rental ...... 47 Namib/Coast ...... 19 Buses ...... 47 East ...... 23 Trains ...... 47 North West ...... 23 Taxis ...... 47 North East ...... 25 Travel Times ...... 48 Caprivi ...... 26 Geography ...... 50 Kavango ...... 28 Map of Conservation Areas ...... 50 Linking Namibia with other countries ...... 29 Nature Reserves ...... 50 National Parks ...... 50 Tips for Transportation Around Namibia ...... 30 Bwabwata National Park ...... 50 Tips for Exploring Lesser Known Regions of Namibia ...... 30 Dorob National Park ...... 51 Tips for Engaging with People of Different Cultures ...... 31 Etosha National Park ...... 52 Khaudum National Park ...... 53 Tips for Photography ...... 31 Mamili National Park ...... 53 What Makes Namibia Special? ...... 32 Mangetti National Park ...... 54 Nature ...... 33 Mudumu National Park ...... 54 Wildlife ...... 33 Sperrgebiet National Park ...... 54 Conservancies ...... 33 Namib-Skeleton Coast National Park ...... 55 Culture ...... 34 Cape Cross Seal Reserve ...... 55

2 Hardap Game Reserve ...... 55 Taxes ...... 66 South West Nature Reserve ...... 56 Withdrawing Money/ATM Machines ...... 67 Daan Viljoen Game Park ...... 56 Using North American credit cards in Namibia ...... 67 Fish River Canyon and /Ai-/Ais Resort ...... 56 Tipping ...... 67 Namib-Naukluft Park ...... 57 Internet access ...... 67 In the Namib ...... 57 Using a North American phone in Namibia ...... 67 Sandwich Harbour ...... 58 Getting a phone in Namibia ...... 67 Welwitschia Trail ...... 58 Vaccinations ...... 67 Sossusvlei ...... 58 Wheelchair Accessibility ...... 68 Sesriem Canyon ...... 59 Health care facilities ...... 68 In NAUKLUFT ...... 59 Rescue facilities ...... 68 Popa Game Park ...... 59 Water ...... 68 Skeleton Coast Park ...... 59 Malaria ...... 69 Von Bach Game Park ...... 60 Language ...... 69 Waterberg Plateau Park ...... 60 Key Phrases ...... 69 Transfrontier Parks ...... 61 Vegetarians ...... 71 The /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park: ...... 61 Electrical current ...... 72 The Iona Skeleton Coast Transfrontier Conservation Area: ...... 61 Government ...... 72 The Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area: ...... 61 Namibia with Kids ...... 72 Conservation Areas ...... 62 Namibia for Mature Adventurers ...... 72 Conservancies ...... 62 Reading List ...... 72 Private Game Reserves ...... 63 Weather – What to Pack ...... 73 Ramsar Sites ...... 63 Activities ...... 73 Conservation initiatives ...... 64 4x4 trails ...... 73 AfriCat ...... 64 Adventure Races ...... 73 Afri-Leo/AfriCat North ...... 64 Angling ...... 74 Cheetah Conservation Fund ...... 64 Ballooning ...... 75 Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation (IRDNC) ...64 Birding ...... 75 Harnas ...... 65 Camel rides: ...... 76 Ministry of Environment and Tourism ...... 65 Camping ...... 76 N/a’an kuse ...... 65 Canoeing, Kayaking, Rafting ...... 76 Namib Desert Environmental Education Trust (NaDeet) ...... 65 Catamaran ...... 77 Predator Conservation Trust ...... 65 Caving ...... 77 Save the Rhino Trust ...... 66 Climbing ...... 78 Practical Tips ...... 66 Community Based Tourism ...... 78 Time Zone ...... 66 Diving ...... 78 Currency ...... 66 Dolphin Cruises ...... 79

3 Dune & Sand boarding ...... 79 Endurance Sports ...... 80 Flying ...... 80 Golfing ...... 80 Geology ...... 80 Hiking ...... 80 Horseback riding ...... 83 Hunting ...... 84 Kitesurfing ...... 85 Mountain Biking ...... 85 Paragliding ...... 86 Photography ...... 86 Quad-biking ...... 86 Safaris ...... 87 Stargazing ...... 87 Skydiving ...... 87 Soaring ...... 88 Surfing ...... 88 Wellness ...... 88 Windsurfing ...... 88 Understanding Some Key Issues in Namibia ...... 88 Political history ...... 89 Government ...... 89 History ...... 89 Mining ...... 89 Seals ...... 90 Hosting a Conference or Meeting in Namibia ...... 90 Conference Facilities ...... 90 Benefits ...... 91 Who to contact? ...... 91 Downloadable Content ...... 91 Itineraries ...... 91 Destination Copy ...... 91 Images ...... 92 The End ...... 92

4 NAMIBIA FACTS

Area: Namibia covers 824,292 sq. km (318,259 sq. mi). Location: Situated on the southwestern coast of Africa, Namibia borders Angola and Zambia in the north, South Africa in the south and Botswana in the east. Population: Slightly more than 2.2 million. Capital City: Windhoek variety of accommodation establishments that bridge enhance the country’s appeal. 3) Namibia is liberating. Your visitors can visit Namibia at their own pace, on their own terms. Like nowhere else in Africa, Namibia provides the visitor the opportunity to escape stress, experience peace and freedom, sit and admire the breathtaking landscapes and reﬂect. The North American visitor to Namibia will not be part of a larger guided tour as experienced elsewhere in Africa where scheduled group activities, buffet meals, tightly organized and often large game drives, and visits to contrived roadside gift shops ruin the experience.

What Are Others Saying About Namibia?

“Namibia is one of the most amazing countries we’ve been to in 10 years.” Matt Lauer, during his 10th and ﬁnal Where in the World is Matt Lauer tour for NBC’s Today show.

"Anyone who has flown over the vast infinity of the Namibia Desert in a light aircraft will know that it is the closest to flying like a bird that you will ever get. You will experience a sense of timelessness and space amplified above, below and beyond. Your breath will have been taken away time and time again as the colours and contours of the dunes change and expand into infinity." Dr. Conrad Brain, commercial pilot with 10,000 hours and veterinarian, conservationist and scientist.

“Whether you like pitching a tent in the bush or on a river bank, being pampered in a five Three Things You Need to Know About Namibia star hotel, or sleeping in a four-poster bed in a castle, or waking up in a bungalow built in stone with a solid mountain rock as a bed board, Namibia has all of this and more.” 1) Namibia is undiscovered and unspoiled. We won’t name names, Issi Eises, Namibian but unlike other countries, Namibia feels as though your footprints are the first to fall on a windswept dune, not sharing the view to a watering “From adrenalin-pumping exploits to relaxed fishing expeditions, Namibia has adventure hole with 15 to 20 other vehicles, and the chance to meet beguiling peo- galore. With its vast tracts of untamed countryside, rugged mountains and the Namib's ple whose cultures are vastly different but whose warmth makes you feel magnificent dune sea, Namibia offers a wide range of adventure activities. From easy ram- at home. bles on foot in the Namib Desert to galloping at full speed on horseback across the Namib 2) Namibia is safe and provides outstanding infrastructure – not explains, to soaring in the thermals in a hot-air balloon and braving the awesome rapids of pected in Africa or most developing countries. Visitors will enjoy a sense the Kunene river.” Willie Olivier, travel writer for Travel News Namibia. of security, ease of movement, and even self-drive experiences if desired. A well-maintained road network, scheduled and chartered flights plus a

6 “Imagine standing on a single spot in a last so vast and empty that it is possible that no human being has ever stood there before. You will experience a magical sense of isolation, of empowerment, of freedom, and of communion with the environment.” Sharri Whiting De Masi, Flamingo in-ﬂight magazine

“Nowhere else on earth is there and expanse similar to the Island Marine Protected Area, one of Namibia’s latest innovative conservation initiatives. A merger of 12,000 sq. km of protected Atlantic Ocean, with dotted islands, a coastline that forms part of the 107,540 sq. km continuous national park from the Orange to the Kunene rivers form a combination of conserved sea and land that is unmatched in any country.” Dr Hu Berry, Scientist and writer for Conservation & the Environment in Namibia magazine.

“Whether you’re an amateur, hobby or professional photographer, in Namibia you can’t go wrong – light conditions are optimal and there is a spectacular variety of scenic landscapes and an abundance of wildlife that can often be photographed at close quarters.” Amy Schoeman, Award-winning Namibian photographer and author

“Geologically speaking Namibia is undoubtedly one of the most interesting countries in the world. The landscape is like an open book, just waiting to be read.” Nicole Grün- ert, Geologist.

“Breathing space. Thinking space. Fresh air in abundance. Enough air for everyone to breathe, enough space for everyone to be. Once you have experienced how liberating so much open space is, your bewilderment will turn into enchantment.” Christine Hugo, Author, My Hungry Heart.

7 Fun Facts About Namibia Some stunning and surprising facts about Namibia that will delight your *Namibia’s 1992 Miss Universe contestant, Michelle McLean, won the clients! crown that year. In 1995, Namibia became the first country in Africa to host the contest. *After Mongolia, Namibia is the second most sparsely inhabited sovereign country in the world (Antarctica is not a sovereign country!) *In 1908, when the German settlers were constructing the railway line from Lüderitz, a foreman joked to his workers that they should look for dia- *Up to 150 million years ago, some assert that Namibia was firmly con- monds beside the line. They found them, and started the Namibian dia- nected to South America. Namibia’s Kunene River has its geological mond industry! Today, tourists can find diamonds too…at the master jewel- match in what is present day Brazil and the same dinosaurs roamed across ers in town! There is a special “Namibian sun” original cut developed ex- the whole region. clusively for Namibian diamonds.

*Namibia is a member of the British Commonwealth. It is one of only two countries in the British Commonwealth that was never a colony of Britain. The other country is Mozambique.

*After Independence, English became Namibia’s ofﬁcial language. How- ever, English is the native language of less than 5% of the country’s population. There are 28 different dialects spoken in Namibia.

*The bulk of Namibia’s population lives in the northern fringes of the country, not around the capital.

*Namibia has the largest ‘Khoisan’ speaking population in the world – the original Neolithic language of Africa.

*The odd shape of the country, with Namibia’s Caprivi strip stretching out like a ﬁnger to the east, was the colonial German government’s attempt to link up with their colony in Tanganyika (Modern day Tanzania)!

*Namibia is the driest country in Southern Africa, and home to the two of the oldest deserts in the world.

*However, Namibia is also home to the world’s largest underground lake – the Dragon’s Breath!

*Namibia ‘hosts’ the world’s largest meteorite, which fell to earth over 80,000 years ago. Tourists can see it near Grootfontein.

8 *Namibia is the only country in the world where the number of free- *Nearly everyone is connected in Namibia – there are over 1 ½ million cell roaming desert lions has increased fivefold in less than two decades. phone users in a population of only 2 million! *The Khomas Hochland/Gamsberg area west of Windhoek has the third- *The colourful traditional dresses of Herero women derive from the attire clearest, least light-polluted sky in the world. of the wives of Finnish missionaries in the 19th century. *Chelsea Clinton and her husband honeymooned in Namibia. *Namibia has the world’s largest populations of cheetah and of black rhinos living outside of protected areas. *Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie had their first child in Namibia and continue to support conservation and community efforts in the country. *Walvis Bay, Namibia’s main port, was a British or South African enclave for over 100 years and only incorporated into Namibia in 1994. Photo Gallery: Fun Facts about Namibia *Sandfontein, in the extreme south of the country, was the site of the first battle in World War I, a contest between South Africans and the German occupiers of Namibia.

*Before it became Windhoek, the ﬁrst name for the area of Namibia’s capital was called Queen Adelaide’s Bath. In most indigenous languages, it is called ‘place of steam and smoke’ because there used to be plentiful hot springs in the area.

*Namibia is a country geared towards aviation. Not only does it have top- class ﬂight schools and aviation engineers, almost every guest farm and lodge in the country has its own landing strip. There are more than 300 known airﬁelds in Namibia.

*Namibia is the ﬁrst African country to enshrine the protection of the environment into her constitution.

*42% of Namibia’s surface area is under some form of conservation management. This includes national parks and reserves, communal and commercial conservancies, community forests, and private nature reserves. After Mongolia, Namibia is the second most sparsely inhabited sovereign country in the world. *Namibia is the only country in the world where large numbers of rare and endangered wildlife are translocated FROM national parks to open communal land.

9 10 NAMIBIA EXPERIENCES

At approximately 824,000 square kilometers, Namibia is immense even by African standards. But it’s what occupies this seemingly endless amount space that makes it special. Namibia is ﬁlled with rugged, beautiful landscapes of every kind creating an otherworldly environment from which an amazing wealth of wildlife has adapted and thrived. It’s perfect for nature lovers, for adventure or solace seekers, and for people looking to be inspired long after their departure. Uniquely Namibian Experiences drop off camps, and participants must provide their own food, water and camping gear. Firewood is available for sale. As you’ll ﬁnd through this course, Namibia offers a host of exciting and surprising activities for every kind of traveler. Here are some highlights: Rhino tracking (Please see the “Activities” Section for more activities available in Namibia) Tracking with Save the Rhino Trust through the remote, vast and harsh desert terrain is a great adventure. The desert adapted black rhinoceros Adventure Races (Diceros bicornis bicornis) surviving in the Kunene Region (former Damara- land and Kaokoland) in the arid north-west of Namibia are the only rhino 100 km of Namib Desert – An annual race that subjects the runners to world-wide, that have survived on communal land with no formal conserva- extreme conditions – sandstorms, strong winds, blistering heat during the day tion status. In the early 1980's, a savage slaughter of desert wildlife took and freezing temperatures at night – yet treats its participants to five-star ac- place in the Kunene Region. As rhino numbers shrank to near extinction, commodation, is the contradiction on which this unique event was devel- a group of concerned people gathered together to form the Save the Rhino oped. Still a relatively new and innovative program, it is unique in the world Trust (SRT). Monitoring, research and recognition of individual rhinos is panorama of desert-running contests. Its attractions are running for 100 kilo- vital to SRT’s work, so tracking isn’t merely a tourist activity. It is critical to meters (about 62 miles) over terrain regarded by many as the most beautiful the ongoing protection of rhinos in Namibia. Tracking is conducted in the and captivating in the world, experiencing its mysterious and ever-changing Palmwag Conservancy, where the rare desert dwelling elephant is also atmosphere in an ambience of relaxation and comfort. found.

Namib Desert Challenge – Regarded as one of the toughest footraces Birding in the world, this race covers 142 miles of inhospitable, desert terrain. It is With habitats ranging from the Namib dunes, coastal wetlands and savan- held in the Sossusvlei area, and comprises five stages of high-endurance ul- nahs to the floodplains and waterways of Kavango and Caprivi, Namibia’s tra running, with competitors carrying their own survival kit and food. The birding checklist boasts 676 of Southern Africa's 887 species. NDC is a physical as well as a mental race. Running the equivalent or more of a full marathon every day for five days, with temperatures reaching the Heading the list of ‘megaticks’ are Namibia’s 15 endemic and near- mid-40s, it is a super test of endurance, stamina and the ability to persevere endemic species. Among these are Rüppell’s korhaan, Hartlaub’s spurfowl, through personal pain barriers. NDC takes place in March. With a limit of Rüppell’s parrot, Violet wood hoopoe, Carp’s tit, Monteiro’s hornbill, Her- 80 runners, interested parties should jump to secure a place. ero chat, Damara hornbill (newly classified) and the white-tailed shrike.

Dorsland Trek 4X4 Route - Running from the Marico Region in South The most rewarding birding destination is the northeastern region of the Africa and ending in Humpata in Angola, this race is an adventurous 1 country. Of the more than 450 species recorded here to date, several have a 243-mile, self-guided route following the tracks of the epic 1878 Dorsland limited distribution elsewhere in Southern Africa, including Okavango ‘spe- Trek from South Africa through Namibia to Angola. cials’ such as the slaty egret, swamp boubou, chirping cisticola and greater swamp-warbler. Noteworthy species occurring along the Okavango and Self Guided Naukulf Hiking Trail - This 45-mile-long self-guided hik- Zambezi rivers include the rock pratincole, African skimmer and long-toed ing trail is regarded as the most difficult of its kind in Namibia. It takes two lapwing. days to complete and the overnight camp can accommodate 16 people. Groups are limited, with no more than 4 vehicles allowed in the pick up and

12 Birding hotspots in the northeast are the Bwabwata National Park, Impalila Surfing Island (400+ species), the Mudumu and Mamili national parks, Katima Mu- With waves ranging in length between 150 and 300 meter and with a swell lilo and the Zambezi River, and the western bank of the Kwando River. size of about 2 meter, surfing is possible at Cape Cross where waves are The wetlands of Walvis Bay and Sandwich Harbor rank among the most rated as the favourites in Namibia. The wave are world-class! important coastal wetlands in Africa and make for optimal birding. Click here to watch a surfing video in Namibia. Nearly a quarter of Namibia’s birds are Palaearctic or intra-African migrants. The coastal flats are an important breeding ground of the endan- Golfing gered Damara tern, while the gravel flats of the pre-Namib are home to With a stunning backdrop of red sand dunes, 450 palm trees translo- Gray’s lark and in the dune areas further south, the dune lark, Namibia’s cated from a dormant date farm in the Hoanib River, and more than only true endemic bird species. 250 springbok roaming freely across its greens, the unfenced golf course at Rossmund Golf Club & Lodge is uniquely Namibian. When Avis Dam on Windhoek’s outskirts holds water, quality birding can be enjoyed close to the capital. Species of interest include the white-tailed The 18-hole, par-72 course with fully grassed fairways is located 4.3 miles shrike, Monteiro’s hornbill and the rockrunner. Other well-known birding inland from Swakopmund, outside the fog belt. The course length is 20 111 destinations in Namibia are the Waterberg Plateau Park, Etosha National feet for men and 16 896 feet for women. It is believed that Rossmund is the Park and the Kunene River environs (the latter especially for ‘specials’ such first golf course in the world to have the same grass on the tee, fairway and as the Cinderella waxbill, rufous-tailed palm-thrush and bare-cheeked bab- green, although the preparation for each is different. bler). Fish River Canyon Click here for a birding map from Birdlife.org One of the major hiking trails in Southern Africa, the Fish River Hiking Paragliding trail takes backpackers on a journey along the second-largest canyon in The dunes south of Swakopmund provide some of the safest locations in the world through spectacular scenery, solitude and total wilderness. the world for paragliding. The dune belt between Swakopmund and Walvis Hemmed in by sheer canyon walls towering as much as 1,801 feet above Bay where the dunes range from 230 to 498 feet, especially the dunes over- the meandering riverbed, the trail runs between the northernmost view- looking Long Beach (Langstrand), are favourite spots for paragliders. The point of the Fish River Canyon and the thermal hot spring at the /Ai-/ fresh southwesterly winds offer ideal ‘lift’, and once air-borne there are spec- Ais Spa. tacular views of the desert and ocean. Namib Gliding offers a half-day introductory course that includes at least two ground-skimming flights, full The trail is 53 miles long, is self-guided and usually takes four or five days day flights, a basic pilot’s license course and tandem flights. to complete. It can be undertaken only from 15 April to 15 September, due to high summer temperatures and the danger of flash floods during the In Namibia paragliding is usually done with a guide who knows the coun- rainy season. A medical form completed by a doctor no more than 40 days try’s conditions and flying sites. Tourists are strongly advised not to try to prior to the hike must be handed in at Hobas before commencing the hike. paraglide on their own. The dunes are regulated by the local training Hikers must carry all their equipment, food and water for the duration of school to insure safety and reduce overcrowding. Currently, tours are of- the hike. Well worn-in boots with good ankle support are essential. fered from October to March, which is the main season and the best flying times in Namibia.

13 Walvis Bay Lagoon With its fresh southwesterly breezes, the Walvis Bay Lagoon attracts board- sailing enthusiasts from all over the world. Walvis Bay is one of the world’s hotspots for windsurﬁng, kite surﬁng and kayaking.

The Walvis Bay Yacht Club organizes regattas for hoby cats, ﬁreballs and catamarans. The aim of the club is the encouragement of amateur yacht sailing and the operation of sea-going motor yachts in Walvis Bay and adjacent waters. In December, the Club hosts the 19-mile-long Off-shore Yacht Race from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund.

14 Quiz 1

Question 1 of 6 What is referred to as the “adventure hub of Namibia?

A. Caprivi

B. Swakopmund

C. Etosh

D. Fish River Canyon

Check Answer

15 NAMIBIA REGIONS

Part of the allure of Namibia is that it’s four countries in one. Four different landscapes, each with its own characteristics and attractions. The most definitive is the Namib, a long coastal desert that runs the length of the country. The central plateau is divided between rugged mountain ranges and sand-filled valleys. Next is the vast Kalahari Desert with its ancient red sand and sparse vegetation. Finally, Kavango and Caprivi, blessed with tropical forests, perennial rivers and woodland savannahs. The Capital City transports passengers between Katutura and Khomasdal to Windhoek Namibia’s capital is Windhoek, a small bustling city with an estimated and its various suburbs. The central business area is easily negotiable/ population of 280,000. Windhoek is situated in the Khomas region, the navigable on foot. name reflecting the importance of the Khomas Hochland mountains The Khomas region is divided into the escarpment of the Khomas Museum: Windhoek hosts the National Museum of Namibia, the Alte Hochland and the inland plateau. It is characterised by three prominent Feste Museum and the Owela Museum. A new Independence Memorial mountain ranges, namely the Eros mountain to the north-east of Museum is currently under construction next to the Alte Feste Museum. Windhoek, the Auas mountain to the South-east and the Khomas More museums include the TransNamib Railway Museum and Geologi- Hochland range to the West. cal Museum. The City of Windhoek is currently renovating a historical building to be converted into a Windhoek City Museum. The Windhoek The region is characterised by its hilly country-side and many valleys, City Museum is being developed in conjunction with the City of Vantaa, averaging an altitude between 1400 and 1600 metres above sea level. Finland. The region's environment comprises of the highland savannah and the camelthorn savannah suitable for livestock farming and contains Culture: Cultural tours can be undertaken to the township of Katu- beautiful scenery, a variety of wildlife on focus, as well as a fairly tura, while a simple stroll through the city offers a glimpse on different rich bird fauna. The rivers that rise in the highlands penetrate the traditions and cultural lifestyles. Many shops and street stalls also sell cul- Namib and Kalahari deserts to the West and East. Increasing numbers tural products and artifacts. A creative treat for locals and visitors – the of game farms and lodges are taking advantage of Windhoek's thriving best of local arts and culture – is the annual four-day /Ae//Gams Arts tourism industry. and Cultural Festival presented by the City of Windhoek at the beginning of September. The festival showcases Namibia's artistic diversity Windhoek is often described as a city with a ‘continental’ atmosphere. through music, cuisine, traditional dances, crafts, paintings and poetry at Its architecture is dominated by historical buildings dating back to Ger- various venues throughout the city. The main objective of the festival is man colonial rule and its cuisine, culture, dress codes and educational to make the City of Windhoek a vibrant cultural and tourist destination institutions resemble something you might encounter in Europe. At the in Africa. same time Windhoek has the color, sounds and tempo of a modern Af- rican city. Pavement displays of African drums and woodcarvings from History: Because of the many hot springs in the area, Windhoek was the north contrast with elegant shops offering sophisticated typically initially known as Ai-gams (correctly spelt /Ai //Gams to indicate the Namibian Swakara garments and Namibian gemstones and diamonds click sound), a Nama word meaning ‘firewater’, ‘steam’ or ‘smoke’, and set in individually designed pieces of jewelry. Otjomuise, a Herero word meaning the ‘place of steam’. The Nama cap- tain, Jan Jonker Afrikaner, gave the town the name it carries today. In the Suggested Stay: Windhoek can be explored in a few hours to get a early 1840s Afrikaner settled where the most powerful spring reached the feeling of the place, or three to four days. surface. It is thought that in a moment of nostalgia he named the place after Winterhoek, the farm in the Cape where he was born. During the Access: The city can be accessed by air via the international airport, German colonial administration the town was called Windhuk, which Hosea Kutako and regionally via Eros airport. Located in the centre was subsequently changed to Windhoek. of the country, the two main routes, from east to west and north to south, as well as the main railroads lead through Windhoek. Accommodations: As the capital city, Windhoek offers a wide range Public transport in the city consists mainly of taxis, while a bus service of accommodation, ranging from the new five-star Hilton hotel, to guest

17 houses, hotel pensions, bed and breakfast facilities, backpacker’s lodging Restaurants and camping. Top restaurants are Leo’s at the Castle at Hotel Heinitzburg in Klein Windhoek, which offers haute cuisine, superior wines and mag- Adventures: Cycling, horse riding, motor biking and quad biking, nificent views over Windhoek; the ever-popular Gathemann Restau- mountain climbing, mountain biking and hiking are all available. rant on Independence Avenue with seating on a balcony overlooking Windhoek’s main street and Zoo Park, especially good for Namibian Entertainment: Windhoek has an active and lively community of art specialities; and The Gourmet in the Kaiserkrone Centre off Post and craftspeople. For performing art enthusiasts, a welcome addition to Street Mall, popular especially with locals. the arts and entertainment scene is Backstage, an intimate lounge theatre where entertainment ranges from solo and ensemble performances of Am Weinberg on Jan Jonker Road in Klein Windhoek has one of the jazz, folk, bluegrass and classical music, to intimate dramas and belly best settings in town and Sardinia Restaurant, a popular establishment dancing. The 99fm Playhouse Theatre, in the historical Old Breweries located on the corner of Independence Avenue and Garten Street, Building, presents plays and live music, including jazz, blues and cabaret. serves fine Italian cuisine. In the centre of town, the Kalahari Sands Performances by the Windhoek Symphony Orchestra, as well as ballet, op- Hotel with its revamped Dunes Restaurant offers a buffet and era and theatre, also from South Africa and further abroad, are staged by carvery with seating on a terrace overlooking Independence Avenue, the National Theatre of Namibia at the NTN theatre. The NTN collabo- and at the lower end of the main street on the corner of Bahnhof rates closely with the Franco-Namibian Cultural Centre (FNCC), Street in the Protea Hotel Thüringer Hof is The Ivy Grill House. which imports internationally acclaimed theatrical productions from other African countries, Europe and the island of Reunion. The Col- One of Windhoek’s early residences overlooking the city was lovingly lege of the Arts and the Performing Arts Department of the University restored to house the Wine Bar & Wine Shop on what was previously of Namibia (UNAM) present programs ranging from music recitals to known as Windmill Hill in Garten Street. It offers a selection of exqui- art, drama, ballet and experimental theatre. The annual Bank Wind- site light dishes, but is perhaps better known for its premium selection hoek Arts Festival promotes hundreds of Namibian amateur and profes- of imported wines. The Stellenbosch Wine Bar and Bistro is new sional productions and art exhibitions. The BWAF also supports a num- in town and is fast becoming a favourite amongst the wine connoisseurs ber of galleries in Windhoek where exhibitions of contemporary art and of Namibia. Located in the Bougain Villas shopping centre it offers a design are regularly held. lovely venue, a fine selection of private cellar wines and exclusive rights to serve the premium meat produce of Namibia. Windhoek has numerous bars and nightspots where music is played until all hours of the morning. The Ster Kinekor complex at Maerua Windhoek also has a few restaurants offering traditional African foods, Mall has five small auditoriums, which screen primarily mainstream including La Marmite, a cosy and quaint restaurant on Independ- films. ence Avenue that serves typical West-African food. Xwama Cultural Village in Katutura offers traditional foods and features dance groups Where to eat in: Windhoek offers an eclectic variety of restaurants by arrangement. A restaurant in Windhoek West serving a mixture of catering for most tastes, including those of adventurous gourmets inter- African and western cuisine is Fusion, which caters for lunch and din- ested in savouring local specialities, light eaters looking for a simple ner. lunch or quick snack, and vegetarians. Oriental cuisine can be enjoyed at the Chinese restaurant, Chez Wou, in the Windhoek Country Club Resort on the western bypass, and at

18 one of Windhoek’s older establishments, the Yang Tze Chinese Res- The newly opened Paguel, situated in lower Independence Avenue, taurant in the Yang Tze Shopping Centre opposite Schoeman’s Cor- offers international cuisine, a tapas bar and oyster lounge. The Hilton ner in Sam Nujoma Drive. Japanese fare is served in the Sushi Bar in Hotel also caters for a wide variety of tastes in the Ekipa Restau- the NICE Complex in Windhoek West on the corner of Hosea Kutako rant, Kalabar Bar and Terrace, Centrum Lounge and Terrace, Drive and Mozart Street. NICE – the Namibian Institute of Culi- and has the Sky Bar on the rooftop for cocktails and light snacks. nary Education – consists of a vocational training project and a Chef ’s Finishing School linked to a profit-generating restaurant section Cafés, coffee bars, bistros and delicatessen to give students full-on practical exposure to their profession. Newly opened in 2011 is Flaunt, a coffee shop and bistro in the Mae- rua Lifestyle Centre, serving an array of healthy as well as decadent Other places specialising in sushi and other Japanese foods are the dishes, while the Bean There coffee shop in the Maerua SuperSpar Haiku Sushi & Wine Bar at Auas City Hotel, and Sushi & Tep- is also popular. Also in the Maerua Lifestyle Centre is Café Sol, serv- panyaki Grill in Maerua Mall. In the Hidas Centre on Sam Nujoma ing fusion foods and cocktails, as well as a wide selection of wines. Drive is Zum Wurzelsepp, where the owners have developed new com- Another new café, Out to Lunch, is located in the courtyard of the binations of ingredients to introduce German tastes to newcomers in a Goethe Centre in Fidel Castro Street and serves light meals freshly pre- novel way. pared daily. The Franco-Namibia Cultural Centre’s Blue Frog Res- taurant is another popular meeting point, specialising in a fusion of Situated in lower Nelson Mandela Avenue, the ever-popular Joe’s French-Namibian cuisine inspired by the traditional foods of Provence. Beerhouse with its rustic décor, open-air, kraal-style rondavel-and- The Garlic & Flowers café and restaurant, located in the court- thatch seating and live music at night is well patronised by tourists and yard between the National Theatre of Namibia and the National Art locals alike. There are three Portuguese restaurants in the capital: O’ Gallery of Namibia, prides itself in its home-cooked foods with a Portuga, in Sam Nujoma Drive (close to the Blue Olive delicatessen unique African flair, and hosts fashion shows, DJs and bands on a regu- on Schoemanshoek), which is especially good for fish and seafood; Ku- lar basis. bata Restaurant in Nelson Mandela Avenue diagonally opposite the Eros Post Office; and O Pensador, on the corner of Mandume Nde- The Alabasta Café in the Windhoek Arts and Crafts Shop in Sam mefayo Avenue and John Meinert Street. Nujoma Drive serve coffee, snacks and light meals with an African twist. Pastelaria Lua de Mel is a Mediterranean restaurant and deli A good restaurant for fish is Ocean Basket in Town Square in Post with a variety of pastries and other specialities situated in the Elsa Street Mall in the middle of town, with a second branch at the Maerua Building at 23 Sam Nujoma Drive. Amongst the greenery of the Wilde Lifestyle Centre. Also in the Maerua Lifestyle Centre is the Mountain End Nursery at 41 Berg Street in Klein Windhoek is the Cicada Café, Eagle Spur and an St Elmo’s pizza branch. On Sam Nujoma where delicious salads, vegetarian fare, light meals and a variety of Drive is the popular Luigi & the Fish, a restaurant complex with sev- homemade cakes are served. On the corner of Liliencron Street and eral components including a bar, grill and room where children are en- Robert Mugabe Avenue, as part of a village-style development in Eros tertained. Park, is Fresh ‘n Wild, which offers delicious breakfasts and lunches, the latter according to a menu that changes every day, and sundowners The perfect choice for meat lovers is Escape to Nature (previously on Friday evenings until 20:00. Fresh ‘n Wild also has a second branch known as Iitumba), located in a spectacular setting in the Auas Moun- in the Utopia Centre in Nelson Mandela Avenue. tains south of Windhoek, and offering a full à-la-carte menu, featuring Café Balalaika (formerly Café Zoo), in Windhoek’s central and well- a wide variety of meat, chicken and fish. frequented Zoo Park, also offers light meals, sushi and karaoke in a re-

19 laxed outdoor setting. If your children need a safe place to play while Independence Avenue. Waitresses walk around in traditional dirndl you have a relaxing lunch, the Tea Pot Coffee Shop at Ferreira’s Gar- dresses serving serve delicious cakes, Brötchen and light meals. den Nursery has a well-equipped playground. A mall of gastronomic delights The Craft Café in the Namibia Craft Centre in Tal Street offers Maerua Mall in southern Windhoek, accessible from Robert Mugabe tempting light meals, home bakes and coffees. It stays open from Mon- Avenue, Jan Jonker Road and Centaurus Road, offers a wide spectrum day to Friday from 09:00 until 18:30 and on Saturday and Sunday of food outlets for young and old alike, for example the Fudge Fac- from 09:00 to 15:30. Also in the Old Breweries Complex in the court- tory, where you’ll find over 100 different types of fudge. Most of these yard behind the Namibia Craft Centre is Paul’s Coffee Shop, which indulgences are made on the premises. Specifically targeted at kids is serves light lunches. The Brazza coffee bar in Maerua Mall serves Sweet Village, displaying an appetising array of brightly coloured good coffee, light meals and Italian-style snacks. Dulcé Café is another pleasures. popular meeting point for coffee lovers. Other coffee bars around town are the Mugg & Bean in Town Square on Post Street Mall and in Newly opened in September 2011 is Qué Tapas, a Spanish bar and Maerua Mall, the Wecke & Voigts Coffee Bar, a traditional meeting restaurant specialising in tapas and priding themselves on making the place where locals meet for coffee and Brötchen, and Square Café in best cocktails in Windhoek. The restaurant is situated in a quite corner the Carl List Mall. on the second floor at the southern entrance to the mall.

Another Windhoek bistro-type eatery is the SNOB espresso bar, Kopi Bakery up a flight of stairs near the cinema is a touch of old tucked away off the Ausspannplatz, accessible from Dr Augustinho Europe. Freshly baked bread and rolls are on sale here from Monday to Neto Street. In Sam Nujoma Drive, as part of Schoemans Corner, is Saturday until 13:30. For those with a taste for the traditional, there’s the Blue Olive, where home-made olive breads, tapenades, a variety Billy Bites and The Biltong Shop, where many kinds of biltong are of pestos and other Mediterranean specialties can be bought and light sold. On the other end of the scale, for those looking for a touch of the meals are served during office hours. Located in Nelson Mandela Ave- exotic, there is the Sushi and Teppanyaki Grill, open every day nue is Virmar Delicatessen & Fisheries, a shop that sells fresh fish from 11:00 onwards and serving a range of Japanese food favourites in and other Portuguese specialities, and in the Bougain Villas complex, a vibrant red, deep brown and white setting. Sugar & Spice, a pancake parlour. The well-known specialist in local meat, Hartlief, offers coffee and light snacks at Hartlief’s Shop & Bis- If you’re looking for something substantial, Steers and Fish Aways tro to customers who have come to buy meat at the butchery at its are where to go. The coffee bar at Woermann Brock is a rewarding headquarters in the Northern Industrial Area. place for people watching. Or you could go to Brazza situated just inside the Stuttafords entrance to the Mall. Or sample coffee, enjoy a A good place to relax and enjoy breakfast, coffee and lunch in an infor- meal and be dazzled by the vibrant and sophisticated décor at the mal street-café atmosphere is Café Schneider in Levinson Arcade, op- Italian-style Dulcé Café. posite the main post office. In’s Wiener in Wernhil Park offers good light lunches and other refreshments, while the newly opened Tor - There are also the franchised Wimpy Restaurant and Cattle Baron nado, situated on the second floor of the revamped mall, and open steak house, Primi Piatti, Mugg & Bean, and Panarottis serving from 9am to 21pm, is popular for pizzas and cocktails. an eclectic range of pizzas.

Sonja’s Kaffeestube is a German café situated in the BPI House in

20 26 August, – referred to as Heroes’ Day – thousands of Hereros converge on the town to pay homage at the graves of their great chiefs. Central Region Some of the women are dressed in traditional red and black, others in Main Towns: The central area comprises towns such as Rehoboth, to green and black, while the men wear full military regalia, complete with the south of Windhoek, Okahandja and Otjiwarongo, both situated medals. Visitors are welcome to view this rich and colorful ceremony. Ac- north of the capital, and Omaruru to the north west. cording to historian Dr H Vedder, the name Okahandja comes from Suggested Stay: Suggested stay, five days to a week. Herero and means ‘small widening’, the place where the rivers meet. The earliest records of the town date back to 1844 when the first two missionaries arrived there. The year 1894, however, is regarded as the Getting There: At the moment the central area is only accessible via birth of the town, as Okahandja became a military base in this year and road, or private air charter at certain accommodation facilities. A pri- a fort was built. vate airport is in the process of construction at Okahandja.The central region is best explored by car. The historical town of Rehoboth sits amongst relatively dense acacia woodland of camel-thorn, sweet-thorn and candle-pod acacia. It is inhab- National Parks: There are no national parks in the region, but the Daan ited by the Baster community, descendants of people of mixed parentage Viljoen Game Park (just outside of Windhoek), Von Bach Recreation Re- who trekked across the Orange River under their leader Hermanus van sort (just outside Okahandja) and Gross-Barmen Hot Springs Resort Wyk and settled at Rehoboth in 1870. The history of the Rehoboth Bas- (100km northwest of Windhoek) are nature reserves that provide similar ters is recorded in the Rehoboth Museum. Displays detail the cultural opportunities to explore the outdoors. heritage of the Basters and archaeological finds in the area, such as an open-air burial site. In earlier times a camel-thorn tree referred to as Kap- tein’s Tree was the venue for the meetings of the Kapteinsraad, an equiva- History: A unique display of Baster history can be viewed in the Reho- lent of Chief ’s Council. both Museum housed in the old Postmaster’s House next to the Post Of- Accommodations: Accommodation in the central area comprises any- fice in Rehoboth. Also on display are regional archaeological finds, eth- thing from hotels and guesthouses, to camping and self-catering. nological artifacts and copper-mining exhibits. Adventure Activities: Stargazing is a popular activity in the central re- The Omaruru Museum housed in the Rhenish Mission House, a na- gion and many farms, such as Hakos (135 km from Windhoek) offers tional monument in the main street in Omaruru, is usually closed, but telescopes for viewing the night skies. Other activities on lodges and keys can be obtained from the Municipality. guest farms in the area include quad biking, horse riding and cheetah feeding, amongst others. Culture: The Okahandja Cultural Village houses homesteads of seven of Namibia’s cultural groups – the San, Tswana, Caprivians, Damara, Ovahimba/Ovahere and Owambo – with the aims of preserving and teaching the country’s cultural diversity. It is situated 10 km outside Okahandja off the Hochveld Road.

History: Okahandja is a town of great significance to the Herero people because it was once the seat of Chief Samuel Maharero. Every year on

21 South Region tree or kokerboom, Aloe dichotoma, and Euphorbia gregaria, the canyon is a The highlight of the southern region is the Fish River Canyon, Na- spectacular natural phenomenon that took hundreds of millions of mibia’s most spectacular geological phenomenon and second in gran- years to evolve. Some 50km southwest of Keetmanshoop en route to deur only to the Grand Canyon in North America. Seeheim is the Naute Recreation Resort, where a large variety of birds can be found. Main Towns: Major towns in the region are Mariental, Keetmanshoop and Lüderitz. Museums: Situated at the edge of the Namib Desert is Duwisib Castle, built in 1908/9 by the legendary Baron von Wolf. The castle houses an- Suggested Stay: As towns are quite far from each other, it is recom- tique furniture, works of art and firearms from the 18th and 19th centu- mended to allow some extra time for this region. From seven to ten days ries, imported from Germany. should be sufficient. Housed in one of the oldest mission houses in Namibia is the small Schme- Getting There: There is a commercial airport at Lüderitz and it is much lenhaus Museum in Bethanie, containing natural history and Rhenish mis- more convenient to get there by aircraft, as it is quite a distance to cover sionary displays. by road. Alternatively, as the roads to these destinations are all tarred and mostly extend over a flat surface, it is comfortable to travel by road. The Keetmanshoop Museum, accommodated in the beautifully restored Even though towns and interesting attractions are far removed, the re- Rhenish Mission Church in Kaiser Street, is a community museum that gion (as the rest of Namibia) is best explored by car, as it allows access to depicts the history of Keetmanshoop and traditional culture of the Nama off the beaten track destinations. Day trips from Windhoek to the Fish people. River Canyon and Lüderitz are only possible when travelling by aircraft. The community-based Warmbad Museum is a collaboration between the Warmbad Community Based Tourism Enterprise (WCBTE) and National Parks: The Sperrgebiet National Park was proclaimed in 2008. the History Department of the University of Namibia. It houses dis- While it is still largely undeveloped and much of it remains inaccessible plays with many pictures and items that are unique to Namibia. to visitors, a small section of this wild landscape can be explored with a guided group, accompanied by an official of the MET. Because the The Lüderitz Museum in Diaz Street in the harbour town is a private Sperrgebiet, due to its diamond wealth, has been off limits to the public local history museum, offering special displays on the Dias expeditions for close to a century, the habitat is largely untouched and pristine, mak- of discovery, mining of diamonds and other minerals, and the history ing a visit to the park a truly unique wilderness experience. of Lüderitz. In the outdoor courtyard are colonial-era wagons, whale- bones, mining equipment and a cannon. The Hardap Recreation Resort (45km west of Mariental) is surrounded by a game park and bird sanctuary. Proclaimed in 2003, the /Ai-/Ais Ten kilometres east of Lüderitz is the Kolmanskop Ghost Town, an Richtersveld Transfrontier Park on the banks of the Orange River is Na- open-air museum, which recounts the history of this abandoned dia- mibia’s first transfrontier park. mond mining community that is now half submerged in the drifting sands of the Namib Desert. Several of the houses are kept clear of The Fish River Canyon Park, which falls in the /Ai-/Ais transfrontier sand for viewing by visitors. Another private enterprise is the Sperrge- area, is also found in the southern region. Set in a harsh, stony plain, biet Museum in 7th Avenue, Oranjemund, which contains displays of dotted with drought-resistant succulents such as the distinctive quiver local history, minerals and mining, fossils and regional history, and arte-

22 facts from Sperrgebiet ghost towns. Namibia’s most famous ghost town, Kolmanskop, is situated in the Sperr- Culture: The Aus Information Centre (located in the town of Aus, en gebiet about 10 km inland from Lüderitz. It was named after transport route to Lüderitz) provides ample information on all aspect of the area, driver Johnny Coleman, who lived in the tiny settlement of Aus at the including culture. turn of the century. During a fierce sandstorm he was forced to abandon his ox wagon on the small incline from where Kolmanskop can be seen. It stood there for a while, giving rise to the name Colemanshuegel, which San/Bushmen tours can also be conducted in the Kalahari Desert to eventually became Kolmanskop. In 1908 the railway worker Zacharias learn more about these peoples’ culture. Bushmen trackers take guest on Lewala found a sparkling stone in the sand he was shovelling away from foot trails into the veld to show them their means and ways of survival. the railway line near Kolmanskop. August Stauch, his supervisor, was con- Cultural experiences are most often offered by lodges – check with ac- vinced he had found a diamond. When this was confirmed, the news commodations on what cultural experiences they offer guests. spread like wildfire, sparking a frantic diamond rush and causing fortune hunters to converge in droves on Kolmanskop. It soon became a bustling little centre, featuring a butchery, bakery, furniture factory, soda water and History: Lüderitz was initially referred to as Angra Pequena, meaning Lit- lemonade plant, four-skittle alley, public playground and even a swimming tle Bay, by the Portuguese, whose navigator Bartolomeu Dias erected a pool. stone cross on Dias Point on 25 July, 1488. Heinrich Vogelsang, agent of the German merchant from Bremen, Adolf Lüderitz, landed at Angra The town’s development reached its pinnacle in the twenties, with ap- Pequena on 9 April, 1883, to establish a trading station. Following nego- proximately 300 German adults, 40 of their children and 800 Owambo tiations with the Khoekhoe chief, Joseph Fredericks from Bethanie, he contract workers living there. In spite of, or probably because of, the isola- purchased the land within an 8-km radius of Angra Pequena. In April tion and bleakness of the surrounding desert, Kolmanskop developed 1884 this land became part of the Protectorate of the German Empire, into a lively little haven of German culture, offering entertainment and marking the beginning of German colonial control in Namibia, referred recreation to suit the requirements of the affluent colonialists, for whom to then as Deutsch–Südwest–Afrika. Lüderitz is renowned for its old-world large, elegant houses were built. The well-equipped hospital boasted charm and distinctly German colonial architecture. Set around the bay, Southern Africa’s first X-ray machine. these buildings with their gables, winding stairwells, verandas, turrets and bay and bow windows, have a unique character all of their own. However, when richer diamond deposits were discovered further south, operations were moved to Oranjemund. Today the crumbling ruins of the One of the most striking is Goerkehaus built in 1909 on the slopes of Dia- ghost town bear little resemblance to its former glory. The stately homes, mond Mountain. The Felsenkirche (Evangelical Lutheran Church) close by, their grandeur now scoured and demolished by the wind, are gradually be- consecrated in 1912, looks especially striking in the late afternoon when the coming enveloped by encroaching sand. In 1980 the mining company stained-glass windows are illuminated by the setting sun. Other buildings CDM (now Namdeb) restored a number of the buildings and established a are the old Station Building (1914), the old Post Office (1908) and the museum for tourist viewing. Turnhalle (1912–1913). In the ‘old town’ are Kreplin House (1909) and Troost House (1909). The Lüderitz Museum was founded as a private col- Aus has several historical buildings and traces of crucial historical events, lection by Friedrich Eberlanz, who arrived in Lüderitz in 1914. The fo- including World War I. And Aus is a starting point for viewing the well- cus in the museum is on the early history of the town and aspects of the known wild horses of Garub and a trading centre for the karakul farmers surrounding desert. of the surroundings. The historic Bahnhof Hotel invites travellers to re-

23 lax on the shady veranda, and the Aus Tourist Information Centre wel- motifs in the shape of the Star of David, lending an interesting detail to comes weary visitors with a good cup of coffee or tea, cake and other re- the tall windows of Schützenhaus. The previous owner transferred the freshments. windows to the house when the old Jewish Synagogue in Keetmanshoop was demolished. The historical town of Bethanie, one of the oldest settlements in the country, lies west of Keetmanshoop. It can be visited from the road leading to For most Namibians the small settlement of Warmbad in southern Na- Lüderitz. A significant historical event took place in Bethanie in 1883 mibia is a mere dot on the map. However, in historical times Warmbad when the first recorded deed of sale was signed at the house of the 19th occupied a prominent place in the country. Two hundred years ago the century Nama Chief, Joseph Fredericks, for the land that was to become Albrecht brothers, Abraham and Christian, as representatives of the Lon- known as Lüderitz. Buildings of historical interest in Bethanie are Schme- don Missionary Association, settled in Warmbad to introduce Christianity lenhaus, built in 1814, and the Rhenish Mission Church, which replaced to local inhabitants. By then, in addition to its Nama residents, including the original twin-tower mission church and was inaugurated in 1899. Bondelswarts people who were farming in the surroundings, the settlement was an important stopover for big-game hunters, traders and adventurers Main centre and focal point of the scenic and historic attractions in the en route to and from South Africa. Thus, although these activities started south is Keetmanshoop. Founded in 1860 by the Rhenish Mission Society, as early as 1760, the Albrecht brothers are regarded as the founders of the town still retains vestiges of its original German buildings, as well as Warmbad. Today the town is inhabited primarily by Nama people, a several dating back to the arrival of the first Europeans, who trekked friendly race with a rich history of folklore and tales of heroism in battle. across the Orange River to trade, hunt and explore the land. The first of Of great historical interest in Warmbad is the site where the Bondels- these expeditions was in 1791. It was led by Hendrik Hop, who trekked as warts leader, Jan Christiaan Abraham, was shot and killed by German far as Hainabis on the Löwen River, about 12 km from the Keetman- district officer Lieutenant Jobst when resisting arrest in 1903. The Bon- shoop of today. In 1866 preacher John Schröder of the German Mission- delswarts retaliated by shooting Lieutenant Jobst and a non- ary Society built a shelter at Keetmanshoop from which to operate. It is commissioned officer, an incident that gave rise to the Bondelswarts tak- said that the two acacias he used to support the shelter are still alive and ing up arms against the Germans. This historic event is re-enacted every well. Schröder approached the rich industrialist, Johan Keetman, chair- year on the weekend preceding or following 25 October. Also of interest man of the society, for funds to build a church and dwelling for himself in Warmbad is the stone entrance built between 1907 and 1913 as a gate- and his family. Keetman donated 2 000 German marks for the church, way to the German fort. Completed around 1895, the fort with its single and was rewarded for his generosity by having the settlement named after tower was enclosed by a stone wall. Although the fort no longer exists, him, although he never saw the town himself. The first version of the the remains of the Schutztruppe stables with their beautiful stone cribs Rhenish Mission Church built by Johan Schröder was swept away in 1890 can still be seen. Nearby is the old prison building with its two cells, still by floodwaters of the Swartmodder River. It was then rebuilt on higher in a relatively good condition. To appreciate the historic attractions of- ground, completed in 1895, and used until 1930. It is now a museum with fered by Warmbad, it is best to engage the services of a guide. displays depicting the colourful past of the region. Eagle’s Monument, built between 1897–1907 in remembrance of the casualties in the battles Accommodations: Accommodation includes hotels, guest farms, lodges, fought with the Bondelswarts and the Namas and declared a National guesthouses, and the likes. Monument in 1966, can be viewed in the Garden of Remembrance. A former officer’s barracks built in German colonial times, the Turnverein Gut Heil, has been converted into tourist accommodation. Much of the Adventure Activities: Often compared in terms of difficulty to the daunt- German architectural style was retained, as well as unexpected Jewish ing Otter Trail in South Africa, the Fish River Hiking Trail ranks amongst

24 the Big Five hiking trails in the Southern African Region. The 85-km-long and Ugab rivers is renowned for its excellent angling potential. To pro- route, which most hikers complete in four to five days, starts at the north- tect the most frequented central coast area against damage caused by off- ernmost lookout point close to the Hobas Campsite. Chain handholds are road driving, the stretch between Sandwich Harbour and the Ugab provided at the beginning of the trail and at the bottom is an enormous River was proclaimed as the Dorob National Park national park in 2008. pool in which hikers can cool off before continuing further. There are no Namibian coastline is a haven for countless unique plants, animals and overnight stops along the route, enabling hikers to determine their own birds, a special feature of international interest being the extensive occur- pace and set up camp where they choose. The trail ends at /Ai-/Ais Hot rence of lichen fields. Over a hundred lichen species have been recorded Springs, where hikers can relax in the soothing thermal waters of the in the Namib desert. spring around which the resort was developed. The Cape Cross Seal Reserve, with a surrounding area of 60 km2 consist- Half day, one day and five-night hikes are offered from Fish River Lodge ing of flat gravel plains and the rock outcrop where the seals gather, was on the western rim of the Fish River Canyon. The five-night luxury can- proclaimed in 1968 to protect the biggest and best known of the 23 colo- yon hike is an invigorating 64 kilometer journey of discovery within 45 nies of Cape fur seals that breed along the coast of South Africa and Na- 000 hectares of private park. The hike includes the first and last night at mibia. The reserve is situated approximately 130 km north of Swakop- the lodge with four days hiking and three nights camping. Hikers carry mund and is open daily from 08:00–17:00 (16 November–30 June) and only their lunch and water supply for the day – a back-up vehicle trans- 10:00–17:00 (1 July–15 November). ports the tents and other luggage. Hikes are flexible in that guests can tailor-make their canyon experience from one night’s camping to four The Skeleton Coast Park, proclaimed in its present form in 1971, ex- nights. The lodge is currently working on a quotation for 2012 for a tends from the Ugab River in the south for 500 km to the Kunene River group of four, two of which will hike and two who will cycle the route. 2 in the north, covering an area of 16 845 km . It protects about one third All hikes are guided and are offered from 1 April to 30 September only. of Namibia’s coastline. The landscape in the park ranges from sweeping Activities further south include kayaking the Orange River to observe the vistas of windswept dunes to rugged canyons with walls of richly col- birds and animals that frequent this internationally renowned Ramsar oured volcanic rock and extensive mountain ranges. Over a hundred spe- wetland site and viewing the wealth of succulents, some growing as tall cies of lichen grow on the plains and west-facing mountain slopes, chang- as trees and many putting on a spectacular floral display after winter ing colour and becoming soft and leathery to the touch when the coastal rains. fog generated by the cold Benguela Current pushes inland. Animals oc- Namib/Coast curring on the plains are gemsbok, springbok, jackal, ostrich and brown Main Towns: The main town for the coast and the Namib is Swakop- hyaena, while desert-adapted elephant and even black rhino, lion and gi- mund. Other major towns are Walvis Bay and Henties Bay. raffe roam up and down the dry river courses. Of special interest are the clay castles of the Hoarusib, the salt pans near the Agate Mountain and Suggested Stay: As this area hosts some of the most popular tourist at- the seal colony at Cape Frio. tractions in the country, it is recommended to spend at least a week The northern section of the Skeleton Coast Park is a tourism concession (seven days) here. area and restricted to fly-in safaris only. The southern section – between Getting There: Walvis Bay has a commercial airport, while many lodges the Ugab and Hoanib rivers – is accessible to the general public staying in the Namib have private airstrips. Alternatively guests can get to these at Terrace Bay and Torra Bay. However, because of the ecological sensi- destinations by car. This area is best explored by car. tivity of the surroundings, it is managed by the MET as a wilderness National Parks: The 200-km stretch of coastline between the Swakop area.

25 A day permit to drive directly through the southern region of the park is obtainable from the MET Tourist Office in Swakopmund, as well as at Museums: The Swakopmund Museum in the Old Customs House dis- the Ugab and Springbokwasser gates. plays various archaeological and historical artefacts, models and dio- ramas illustrating the historic development of the area, the natural his- Provisionally it has been called the Namib–Skeleton Coast National Park tory of the Namib Desert and the Atlantic Ocean, botany, zoology, the (NSCNP), because both Namib and Skeleton Coast are already well mining industry, transportation, coins, medals and the cultural anthropol- known, not only in conservation and tourism circles but worldwide, and ogy of Namibia’s ethnic groups. the brand is regarded as strong by existing and potential new investors. The official name will be announced following further consultation and The Walvis Bay Museum in the Public Library Building in the Civic Cen- consideration. Soon to be proclaimed, the repackaged park will stretch tre of the harbour town has similar displays, with the focus on domestic along the entire Namibian coastline, a distance of some 1 570 km, from and commercial developments in the town and its links with the sea. An- the Orange River in the south to the Kunene River in the north, compris- other museum in Walvis Bay, the Apartheid and Contract Labour Mu- ing four main terrestrial Management Areas – the Sperrgebiet National seum, is still in the planning phases. When completed, the Walvis Bay Park (name under review) in the south; the Namib-Naukluft Park; the Museum will also be relocated here. Dorob National Park; and the Skeleton Coast Park in the north. At its narrowest point in the Skeleton Coast, the park extends about 25 km inland, Culture: The first Alliance Francaise Cultural Centre was opened in while at its widest in the Naukluft area it extends inland about 180 km to Swakopmund in September 2010 and holds regular art exhibitions, the top of the escarpment. Namibia will be the only continental country shows films, hosts a library and teaches French classes. in the world that has its entire coastline protected as a national park. The new park will be the eighth-largest protected area in the world, the sixth- Just a few kilometres from the centre of Swakopmund is Mondesa, the largest terrestrial protected area globally and the largest park in Africa, township established in the early 1950s to provide housing for blacks covering an area of 107 540 km2. working in Swakopmund. For tourists keen to experience Namibia through the eyes of the different ethnic groups of the country, Mondesa Namibia’s most versatile conservation area and one of the country’s ma- Township Tours provides a well-organised excursion. The tour portrays a jor tourist destinations is the Namib-Naukluft Park. An amalgamation of living history, moving from the Owambo areas to those inhabited by Da- the Namib Desert Park (proclaimed in 1907), the Naukluft Mountain Ze- mara and Herero people. Stops are at Mondesa’s thriving market, the so- bra Park (created in 1966), unoccupied public land and a section of Dia- called DRC (Democratic Resettlement Community), and Meme Ali’s mond Area 2, the Namib-Naukluft Park was proclaimed in 1979 as one house, where visitors are offered a glass of oshikundu – a drink made by integrated reserve. Following the addition in 1990 of another portion of soaking mahangu (pearl millet) overnight – and invited for a meal. 2 Diamond Area 2, it now has a surface area of 49 768 km . In 2007 the An alternative township tour is Hata Angu Cultural Tours, Hata Angu Namib-Naukluft Park celebrated its hundredth year of existence. This meaning ‘Let’s get to know each other’ in Damara. These tours also start vast wilderness contains key features such as Sossusvlei, Sesriem, the Wel- in Mondesa, and also visit the DRC (situated close to Swakopmund’s rub- witschia Trail, Sandwich Harbour, the Naukluft Mountains and the bish dump, fondly nicknamed by locals as The Hardware Store), and the Kuiseb Canyon. The park is managed as a wilderness area, and accord- house of ‘real’ people such as Ernst Thaniseb, his wife Elsie and their ingly has no large resorts, only serviced camping sites at Sesriem and five children, who live in the DRC, where they have refreshments. Naukluft and a number of rudimentary camping sites in the Namib section. The /Hai Hab Cultural Village near the Mondesa Police Station is an-

26 other place to learn more about the forgotten rural-rooted lifestyle. Brain- child of local resident Isak ≠Naweseb, the village consists of a traditional A national monument, and the oldest building in Walvis Bay, is the Rhen- African restaurant that serves dishes like mopane worms, wild spinach, ish Mission Church, a timber structure that was built in Hamburg in pap, mahangu, kapana and ash-bread, amongst others. For an after- 1880, then dismantled and shipped to Walvis Bay. dinner experience, visitors gather around a campfire and hear traditional stories intermingled with poems and songs. There is also a Haire Oms an- Places of interest includes the historic cemetery along Ben Amathila Ave- cestral hut in which visitors can learn and purchase traditional medi- nue, historic monuments such as the railway locomotive in front of the cines, while another room opens into a small curio shop. Bookings have station and historical rail tracks on airport road. to be made in advance. The Namib-Naukluft Park celebrated its 100th year of existence in 2007. Accompanied by a local guide, visitors can go on self-drive township On 22 March 1907, German Governor Frederich von Lindequist pro- tours in Walvis Bay. One of the companies that offer these tours is claimed three nature reserves, one of which was Game Reserve No 3 in Kuisebmond Township Tours, with its offices at the Waterfront. the central Namib Desert. Renamed as the Namib Desert Park in 1962, it The Tutaleni Village and Relocation Project, which is located in the was amalgamated with the Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park (proclaimed in township, shows how the problem of overcrowding is solved with an 1968) and unoccupied state land, and proclaimed as the Namib-Naukluft innovative housing concept. More than 800 families have been relo- Park in 1979. cated successfully and now enjoy amenities that previously seemed un- attainable. The Tutaleni Village remains municipal property and will Accommodations: Camping is especially popular in the Namib region, be treated as an ongoing project. It is sustained through the joint ef- but accommodation in lodges, guest farms and tented lodges are also forts of the resettled communities, the local authority and the private available. At the coast accommodation ranges from backpackers and sector. The project won the Dubai Award for Best Practices in 2002. guesthouses, to hotels and hotel pensions. History: Founded in 1892 during German colonial rule, Swakopmund served as the territory’s main harbour for many years. Just before reach- Adventure Activities: The coastal strip offers a selection of activities for ing Swakopmund from the interior, enclosed in a small glass-fronted adventure lovers, from quadbiking, ocean cruises, paragliding, sea kayak- structure, visitors can view the Martin Luther ‘steam-ox’ imported from ing, skydiving and sand boarding, to exploring the Namib on the back Germany in 1896 to transport goods between the town and other settle- of a camel or horse, surfing and windsurfing, yachting and angling from ments. When the steam tractor became irretrievably bogged down in the the beach or a boat, the possibilities are endless. There are motocross sand, it was dubbed Martin Luther, because of Luther’s historic state- and 4x4 rally facilities on the outskirts of Swakopmund. At Swakopmund ment in 1521, “Here I stand, may God help me, I can go no further.” you can enjoy an early-morning balloon flight and experience the con- The venue has a museum, toilet facilities and some curios for sale. trast of the desert with the Atlantic Ocean as you drift along the coast.

Quaint architecture from a bygone era adds to the time-out-of-place at- Although shore fishing is still Henties Bay’s number one attraction, there mosphere of Swakopmund. When approached from the interior, domes, is much more to do for those who don’t fish. Numerous walking trails turrets and towers on the skyline appear as a hazy desert mirage. Much start from points in the town and surroundings. Quad biking is another of the distinct German colonial character has been preserved and today popular activity. This wonderland can also be explored along 4x4 routes many of the town’s old buildings house shops, offices and other utility to destinations such as the Messum Crater, Brandberg-West, the Ugab services. Menhir, Spitzkoppe, Omaruru River and various mineral mines. Infor-

27 mation booklets with GPS co-ordinates for each separate trail can be bought from the Tourist Ofﬁcer at the Henties Bay Municipality.

Balloon rides are available in the Namib Naukluft Park/Sossuvlei area, Options in Walvis Bay include The Raft restaurant on the lagoon and while hiking in this area is also very popular, with numerous hiking trails Crazy Mama’s Restaurant for pizza lovers. With an exciting menu that in the park, as well as in the NamibRand private nature reserve. Desert changes every two to three months, Lyon des Sables adds a French touch cycles and marathons are also conducted throughout the year. to Namibian cuisine and Langstrand Restaurant offers an African grill, seafood and stunning sea views. Entertainment: Swakopmund, Walvis Bay and Henties Bay have many The Traveller’s Bistro in the Walvis Bay Tourism Centre serves breakfast, different venues offering entertainment. Clubs, bars and casinos offer lunch and home-made cakes, sundowners and pizza. Other places to eat the best nighttime entertainment. In Swakopmund the Brauhaus, are the Buffalo’s Restaurant, Bonaroma Restaurant, Steve’s Take Away Kücki’s pub and the Swakopmund Hotel and Entertainment Centre are & O’Heilie’s Steakhouse, and Anchors @ the Jetty Restaurant, situated all-time favorites. The Traveller’s Bistro in the Walvis Bay Tourism at the Walvis Bay Waterfront. Centre serves nice sundowners. In Henties Bay the Dolphin’s Entertain- ment Centre, Pirate’s Cove sports bar and pizzeria, Spitzkoppe Restau- There is no form of nightlife or entertainment in the Namib though. rant & Pub and Skubbe Bar are popular options. East Main Town: Gobabis is the main town east of Windhoek. Swakopmund has no less that 50 restaurants, many testifying to the town’s German heritage, such as the intimate Zur Weinmaus, the Zum Suggested Stay: Two days. Kaiser restaurant at the Boutique Hotel, Brauhaus, Kücki’s Pub, Zur Getting There: Gobabis is accessible by road. In Gobabis itself, it is easy Kupferpfanne and the Wurstbude. Coffee and German-style confection- to get around in a taxi, but in the surrounding area a rented vehicle is ery are served at Café Anton and Café Treff, and delicious ice cream at needed to access destinations. Otherwise by organized tour. Gelateria Bella Italia. Then there are Café Rosso, Arkaden Kaffee, Pan- Museum:. At the Gobabis Museum an interesting range of colonial dora’s Box Café, the funky Village Café and Ocean Basket. Raith’s, the household and items and farming implements is displayed. ever-popular bakery, deli, bistro and gelateria, is situated in the centre of town, with the Art Africa Garden Café serving light, healthy meals right Culture: San/Bushmen tours can also be conducted in the Kalahari De- around the corner. The Jetty Restaurant serves seafood, sushi and oysters sert to learn more about these peoples’ culture. Bushmen trackers take in a spectacular setting at the edge of the revamped jetty. guest on foot trails into the veld to show them their means and ways of survival. History: Gobabis developed around a mission station established in 1856 At the Mole Strand Café, now boasts a new look and menu, while The by Friederich Eggert of the Rhenish Missionary Society. In the latter Lighthouse is a popular spot for watching the waves and indulging in a half of the 1800s and the early 1900s, several conﬂicts ﬂared up be- selection of foods. tween the Mbanderu and the Khauas Khoekhoe, as well as between the Erich’s Restaurant offers unusual fare such as crocodile steak. Cape to settlers and the indigenous people. The Gobabis district was proclaimed Cairo specialises in African food, and Il Tulipano in Italian fare. Then by the German authorities in February 1894, and in June the following there’s De Kelder, The Grapevine, The Secret Garden Bistro, Immenhof year, Gobabis was occupied by a German garrison. While the military Farm Kitchen and, many more! fort, built in 1896/7, has long since disappeared, one of the few build-

28 ings dating back to that era is the ﬁeld hospital, or Lazarette, which has been declared a national monument. The Namutoni Museum at Etosha National Park tells about the history of Fort Namutoni and showcase some of the weapons used in the ﬁght Accomodations: A large range of accommodation is available in the between the Germans and Nehale Ya Mpingana’s troops. east. In the Oshikoto Region in northern Namibia is the Nakambale Mu- Adventure Activities: Gobabis is not really known for its adventure ac- seum and Olukonda National Monument, offering guided excursions to tivities, but some accommodation facilities in the area offer activities sites of cultural, historical and natural interest, such as the Uukwaludhi such as horse riding, hiking and animal feedings. Royal Homestead near the town of Tsandi in the Omusati Region, and the traditional house belonging to King Taapopi of Uukwaludhi.

North West Also of historical interest is the Ombalantu Baobab Tree in the centre Main Towns: Towns in the northwest include Outjo, Khorixas, Kaman- of Ombalantu Village, 80 km west of Oshakati. The site is managed by jab, Opuwo, Oshakati and Ondangwa. the Ombalantu Boabab Tree Heritage Centre, which also has camping facilities for the outdoors enthusiast. Suggested Stay: Seven to ten days would be ideal to explore the North West. Culture: The Damara Living Museum displays the pre-colonial dress Getting there: Many lodges have private airstrips, and the northern and traditions of the Damara of Twyfelfontein. The museum features a parts of the Skeleton Coast can only be reached by private air charter traditional village with various huts, livestock and demonstrations of (and through the company that holds the concession), but otherwise all singing, dancing and games. Also offered is an interesting bush walk, other destinations can be reached by car. The Ondangwa Airport. The showing visitors trapping and snaring, and different bush foods. area is best explored by car. Visits to Himba settlements are more possibilities, while a good option National Parks: The Etosha National Park, Namibia’s best-known Na- for learning about Owambo culture firsthand is to visit the Uuk- tional Park falls in this region. Consisting of saline desert, savannah and waluudhi Traditional Homestead at Tsandi. woodlands, the definitive feature of the park is the Etosha Pan, a vast, 2 The Oshakati Omatala is the largest open market in Namibia. And the shallow depression of approximately 5 000 km . For the greater part of Ongwediva Trade Fair is an annual event that hosts exhibitors from all the year the pan is a bleak expanse of white, cracked mud that shim- over Africa. mers with mirages on most days. Seeing vast herds of game against this eerie backdrop, referred to in the local vernacular as the ‘great white place of dry water’, makes the Etosha game-viewing experience unique. History: A visit can be arranged to the historical Omuguluwombase where the guerrilla warfare waged by SWAPO forces for Namibia’s inde- The northern section of the Skeleton Coast Park also falls in this region. pendence was launched. Museums: The history of Outjo and surroundings is depicted in the Guided tours are conducted on a daily basis to the Eenhana Heroes Me- Outjo Museum, where the focus is on gemstones and wildlife. The mu- morial Shrine, depicting the history of the liberation struggle and ac- seum is housed in Franke House, built in 1899 for the German com- knowledging the courage of the People’s Liberation Army of Namibia manding officer, Hauptmann Franke. (PLAN) combatants and civilians who supported them.

29 The Ombalantu Baobab Heritage Centre’s main attraction is a huge Getting there: For flying safaris, most lodges have private landing strips for baobab tree estimated to be around 800 years old and which has served guests, but usually people travel by road. In fact, traveling by car is the as a post office, chapel and hiding place during tribal wars. The site, lo- most popular way of getting around this region. cated in Outapi, also offers camping sites laid out under the tree, a small kiosk, craft centre and facilities for day visitors. Accommodations: Safari camps, lodges, camping sites and guesthouses offer accommodation in this area. Accommodations: Towns in the region offer hotels, guesthouses and pen- sion hotels, while lodges and campsites are more options to choose from in the surrounding area. Adventure Activities: Cave diving is possible for experienced divers at Lake Otjikoto, Dragon’s Breath Cave, Harasib and Lake Guinas. Hik- Adventure Activities:. Camel rides, horse rides, hiking, and off-road driving, both guided and unguided, on the Waterberg are popular activities. ing are popular adventure activities. Well-known destinations for the 4x4 A bicycle fun ride, organized by the TOV Multipurpose Centre in driver include the breathtaking Epupa Falls on the Kunene River, the Mari- Tsumeb is conducted annually. enfluss and Hartmann valleys, the Himba settlement of Purros and the On- gongo Pools. The Palmwag concession area is renowned for its sightings of Main Attractions: The Waterberg Plateau Park is the main attraction on desert-dwelling elephant and black rhino. the way from Windhoek towards the northeast region. Rising some 650 ft above the surrounding African bush and savannah, the Plateau with A sponsored walk that raises money for the conservation of elephants in its flamboyant brick-red sandstone formations and lush green vegetation Namibia takes place yearly. Then there’s the Desert Rhino cycle and Mike presents an island of vibrant colour. The 156 sq mile park, situated 38 Hearn Memorial Cycle that also takes place on a yearly basis. miles east of Otjiwarongo and 120 miles north-east of Windhoek, was declared protected in 1972. Canoeing safaris on the Kunene River is also possible. A balloon flight over the Twyfelfontein Conservancy will give you a The Okakarara Community, Cultural and Tourism Centre (OCCTC) is bird’s-eye view over magnificent Damaraland desert scenery, which in- a short drive from the Waterberg Plateau. It contains displays focusing cludes a unique variety of desert flora and fauna and fascinating geologi- on the culture of the Ovaherero community and their war against Ger- cal formations. man colonial forces in the early twentieth century. Entertainment: Bennie’s Entertainment Park and Lodge is a popular meeting place and provides leisure activities in the forms of putt-putt mini golf, Museums: Okaepe Living Museum and school project, located 34 miles volleyball, table tennis, super-tubing, swimming and gambling. east of Okakarara, children of the primary school entertain tourists with traditional dances, games and songs, ceremonies and scenes from every- North East day life. Performances depict the traditional Herero way of life, the close Main Towns: The main towns in Namibia’s north-east are Grootfontein, relationship of the Herero with their cattle, the bravery of the herders Tsumeb, Otavi, and Tsumkwe in Bushmanland, while Okakarara is the when defending their herds against predators and Herero wedding cere- main town in the communal land of the Herero people. monies. Tours are undertaken to the San community where visitors learn Recommended stay: Four to five days about the San history and way of life.

30 The Historic Living Museum at Grashoek village offers visitors the op- On the farm Ghaub, 22 miles northeast of Otavi, a historical mission sta- portunity to meet traditionally dressed Ju/’Hoansi-San people and learn tion built in 1895 was converted into the Guest Farm Ghaub. This area about their culture through demonstrations of what it takes to survive in is home to the Ghaub Caves, which have been declared a national monu- the wild armed with only a bow and arrow, a digging stick and an inti- ment, remarkable for their stalactites and Bushman paintings, mate knowledge of the environment passed down for generations. Rough A historic fort from the German era, built in 1896, houses the Grootfon- ‘bush camping’ is an option here. The museum can be found on the C44 tein Museum with its extensive mineralogical collection, Himba display, just before the village of Grashoek. implements for making ox wagons, utensils used in the Kavango Region and an exhibition featuring the German colonial Schutztruppe. The villagers of //Xa/oba between Tsumkwe and the Khaudum Na- tional Park opened their own Living Museum in 2010. Along with learn- The Tsumeb Museum in the town’s main street houses large displays on ing about the ancient culture of the Ju/’Hoansi, native to the Kalahari the history of copper mining in the Tsumeb region, featuring mineral Desert for thousands of years, visitors can experience a real hunt with specimens, artefacts, and traditional costumes and photographs of the hunters from the Living Museum. Here the traditional bow hunt with heyday of the industry. Included is a large display of items raised from poisoned arrows, digging out springhares and porcupines and catching the Otjikoto Lake, including World War 1 cannons and ammunition and guinea fowls, korhaans and other birds in snares for food continues today. cultural and ethnological artifacts. But hunting isn’t a tourist attraction per se, the San living in this area are the only Bushmen still legally allowed to hunt traditionally. The Living Lake Otjikoto is located close to the mining town of Tsumeb. Part of an un- Museum is open every day throughout the year from just after sunrise underground river system, the lake was exposed when the roof of what was a til sunset. Basic camping facilities are located close to the Living Museum large dolomite cave fell in. The lake is small with a diameter of about at the Elephant Song Campsite, as yet with no water, toilet or shower fa- 102m, but very deep, estimated to be in excess of 142m in places. cilities. Water can be obtained from the solar water pump at the village The lake contains various pieces of artillery from WWI. Stories are told of nearby. The museum is situated 14 miles from Tsumkwe on the D3315. a large safe, the edges and keyhole sealed with molten lead and containing 6 million goldmarks, being lowered into Lake Otjikoto. The safe has never West of Tsumkwe, the small town of Grootfontein serves the surround- been seen again. ing cattle-ranching community and is the last centre on the road to Rundu and the far northeast. Its history and character are personified in Otjikoto is derived from the Otjiherero language and means deep hole. its coat of arms by depictions of the Hoba Meteorite, a palm tree, kudu, The San called it "Gaisis" which means very ugly because they were afraid eland and cheetah. The Herero name of the town – Otjiwanda Tjongue of the deep water. When Galton and Anderson first stumbled on Otjikoto – means leopard’s crest, and these animals can still be seen in this area. they went for a swim. The local Herero and Owambo people were much Due to the relatively high rainfall and large number of springs in the surprised because local belief was that nobody could survive the mysterious area, the San and Damara who lived here in the first half of the 19th waters. century called the place Gei-/ous, which translates as Grootfontein (Afri- kaans for large spring). Lake Guinas, is southwest of Otjikoto, a 31miles round trip from the main road. The detour is well worth the effort, as Guinas is not only deeper, but The Khorab Memorial – about 2 miles from Otavi and dating back to more scenic than its more famous counterpart. the First World War – marks the spot where a ceasefire was signed at Khorab on 9 July 1915.

31 Caprivi buffalo with close to 1 000 animals). Get out your binoculars and get set Main Town: The main town in the Caprivi region is Katima Mulilo. to see birds. Over 400 bird species have been recorded here with the greatest concentration seen in the Mahango core area. Experience Recommended stay: Five to seven days. dramatically close encounters of the elephant kind, and meet the very Getting there: There is a commercial airport at Katima Mulilo. The hospitable local people. They run the camps, protect the wildlife and Trans-Caprivi Highway is a paved road (B8) from one end of the Ca- craft some of the most stunning basketry and woodcarvings in Namibia. privi to the border with Zambia (Shesheke bridge) and to the border with Botswana (Ngoma bridge). The area is best explored by vehicle, Mamili (Nkasa Lupala) National Park: Wild – that’s the one word that particularly 4x4 vehicles are recommended to access the wilderness ar- best describes Mamili (Nkasa Lupala) National Park. There is nothing eas and National Parks. prissy about it, it doesn’t have fancy campsites and offers no guided tours. Accommodations: Lodges, safari camps etc. But it is an extraordinary piece of wilderness, waiting to be explored. Lush marshes, dense savannah and high river reeds mean that travelling Fun Fact: The Caprivi artists have been more receptive to the western no- through the area is a dream for 4x4 enthusiasts. During the dry winter tion of producing art for art’s sake. While traditional pottery is produced months, large herds of elephant congregate on Nkasa and Lupala in Owambo and Kavango, the art of the potter in Caprivi has evolved islands. But for much of the year, Mamili (Nkasa Lupala) is awash with over time. Beautiful pots with spherical bodies and slender necks are cre- ﬂoodwater. Drive slowly through deep pools and avoid rivers where ated, often with intriguing patterns and interesting ﬁring techniques, mak- crocodiles lie in wait. Slip through thick black mud, so soft it is called ing them much sought after by collectors. cotton, and dice with the odds of getting stuck! If you have to wait while someone else digs the vehicle out, listen carefully. Nearby buffalo may be Main Attractions: The Caprivi region with its lush tropical vegetation crossing the river or you might hear the sound of one of more than 430 and abundance of game and birds is home to three of Namibia’s different species of birds calling. For anyone who relishes the adventures national parks, the Bwabwata National Park, Mamili National Park, and of raw, real Africa, Mamili (Nkasa Lupala) National Park is the place to Mudumu National Park, as well as the Popa Game Park. be.

Bwabwata National Park : Pitch a tent in one of the neat, well-organized Mudumu National Park: Drive through thick mopane forest and over community campsites in and around the Bwabwata National Park and wide floodplains past swamps of papyrus and temporary lakes besieged watch the hippo-haunted rivers gently flow by, knowing that you are in by waterfowl. Be dwarfed by immense leadwood trees. Above all, an area where local people and wildlife are both benefiting from sharing experience one of Namibia’s most rare and treasured sights – lots of in the future of this spectacular area. A lush contrast to the rest of the running water! Rising in the central Angolan highlands, the Kwando country, the Caprivi panhandles, rivers, flood plains, wetlands and forests River flows along the border of Mudumu before disappearing into the are part of a five-nation conservation area that is home to the largest Okavango. The river is the lifeblood of this fertile region. Encounter the population of elephants in the world. Almost everything you could water-loving creatures of Mudumu; the elephants and hippos, the expect to see in the famed Okavango Delta you can see here. Soak your spotted-necked otters and crocodiles, and the rare red lechwe and feet in the spray at Popa Falls, Namibia’s gem on the Kavango River. sitatunga antelope. Watch for the swirl of a fanged tiger fish or the Take unaccompanied or guided game drives across dramatic flood ripples of turtles and water snakes. Don’t miss the sight of the local plains, through mature Kalahari woodland and along the shores of the fishermen deftly poling their mokoros (dug-out canoes) and casting their temporary pans (omurambas). Fill your Big Five tick list by visiting the nets for tilapia in the light of a setting sun to the sound of drums and Buffalo core conservation area (this is the best place in Namibia to see singing from nearby villages. Complete the day by camping under

32 riverine forest and listen to nature’s orchestra; the slosh of life-giving Crafts: Women in Caprivi using papyrus make Musemes, the Lozi name water, the croaking of frogs, the cries of owls and the throaty chuckles of for reed-floor mats. Each reed is halved lengthwise and dried in the sun Mudumu’s hippos. to allow the inner pith to shrink, thus making the reed curl inwards, which makes it more durable. The reeds are then sewn together tightly, using string made from the locally grown mafuu (mother-in-law’s The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) tongue) and narakuku plants. Traditionally the Caprivians used these is also found in the Caprivi region. Spanning over 172,000sq mile KaZa mats to create temporary shelters when they moved to other areas for is the world's biggest conservation area. part of the year to gather food supplies. Up to three or four people would share a mat to sleep on. Museums: The Living Museum of the Mafwe is an authentic open-air museum where guests can learn about the traditional culture and origi- The Caprivi is home to many fine potters as it's an area with a lot of clay nal lifestyle of the Mafwe, demonstrated and described with great dedi- soils and wood for the ovens. Because the region lies between Botswana, cation, with English translations. Most of the programmes are interac- Angola and Zambia, the Caprivian craft-makers are influenced by an active, with the Mafwe enjoying it when the visitors try to weave a tradi- tive crafts industry in neighboring countries. tional net and taste traditional foods. Visitors can spend the night close to the museum in a basic bush camp (soon to be turned into an The community-based Caprivi Art Centre in Katima Mulilo is a market- official campsite) or stay in one of the surrounding accommodation ing outlet for artists and craftspeople throughout the region. The Ngoma establishments. The museum is independently managed by the Mafwe Crafts Centre situated on the border with Botswana also sells local crafts. of Singalamwe and is situated on a beautiful hill with a view on the Kwando River. History: Known as Itenga, Caprivi was ruled by the Lozi kings until it became part of the British protectorate of Bechuanaland, today’s Bot- swana. In 1890, at the Berlin Conference, Germany acquired the terri- In Katima Mulilo the small Sangwali Museum tells the interesting story tory, named it after the German Chancellor General Count Georg Leo of the journey of early missionaries in the region and the pre-colonial von Caprivi, and added it to German South West Africa. The capital of Kololo invasion. Caprivi was at Schuckmansburg until about 1933, when it was moved to Katima Mulilo, a name that means ‘put out the fire’. Katima Mulilo has Festivals: The Mashi Crafts Festival takes place in August each year. It pro- since become a busy tourist centre and gateway to Victoria Falls in Zim- vides an opportunity for craftmakers, primarily women, from all over Ca- babwe and the Chobe National Park in Botswana. privi to adorn their brightest and finest chetenges and show off their artistry. They compete for prizes and present traditional dances and plays to Adventures Activities: The Caprivi is a birding hotspot and is thus fa- colleagues and guests. vored by birding enthusiasts. The area is also exciting for 4x4 drivers. Freshwater angling is popular on the Zambezi River. White-river rafting This festival reinforces the tradition of basket-making in Kavango and is at its most exciting on the turbulent waters of the Zambezi, while clas- Caprivi. Women still use baskets for harvesting in the mahangu fields. sic hunting safaris are offered in some areas. The revival of traditional skills and the acquisition of new skills in mar- keting and sales has enabled women to create a vibrant and successful River cruises on pontoons, photo safaris, swamp safaris, horseback craft industry. trails, boating, a trip in a mokoro (dug-out canoe) and game viewing,

33 either on foot or in open 4x4 vehicles are all available. Some towns forms a natural border between Namibia and Angola for more than and lodges offer golfing facilities. For the more intrepid, there are croco- 400km and is the lifeline to the Kavango people. The people make a liv- dile spotting expeditions by night. ing from ﬁshing, tending cattle and cultivating sorghum, millet and Community Development: the Caprivi Region has several communities maize. actively involved in enterprise development. Such developments are Adventure Activities: The Okavango River offers a localized form of ca- linked to the CBNRM (Community Based Natural Resource Manage- noeing and several lodges along the banks offer canoeists trips of varying ment) and the conservancy program in the area. lengths. The annual Oewona Namibia River Challenge takes place on the Okavango. The event raises money for the Organization of the Em- powerment of Widows/Widowers and Orphans of HIV/Aids in Na- Kavango mibia (Oewona). Main Town: The main town in Kavango is Rundu. Fishing, game viewing and bird watching are the most popular activities. Suggested stay: Three to four days. Sunset river cruises, photo safaris, boating, and game viewing, either on Getting there: There is a commercial airport at Rundu and driving is an foot or in open 4x4 vehicles, are activities sought after by holiday mak- easy option, as the B8 is paved and in good condition. To explore this ers in this region.. area, it is best by to travel by 4x4. Accommodation is offered in lodges, Entertainment: Pubs and bars at some accommodation facilities provide safari camps and camping sites, amongst others. great sundowner spots, while pub crawling at local shebeens (bars) in Main Attractions: Situated some 40 miles south-west of Rundu in the Rundu makes for an interesting local adventure. Kavango Region, the Mangetti National Park extends over about 162 sq miles and is managed jointly by the Ukwangali Traditional Authority and the Ministry of Environment and Tourism. Animals seen here include eland, blue wildebeest, wild dog, leopard and hyena. Additional game including common impala, gemsbok, kudu, giraffe and Burchell's zebra were recently translocated to Mangetti from Etosha Linking Namibia with other Countries National Park and the private sector as part of the Enhancing Your clients may want to visit more than one country on their trip to South- Wildlife-based Economy in Rural Areas Project Park. ern Africa. It is very popular to pair Namibia with Botswana, South Africa, Museums: Thirty kilometers east of Rundu is the Sambyu Museum, an Zimbabwe or Zambia. art and crafts facility containing woodcarvings and traditional crafts from the Kavango Region and southern Angola, and stone tools found locally. The following page gives you a quick overview of the best way to connect our country with its neighbors. Culture: Rundu is the home of Namibia’s well-known Kavango woodcarv- ers. Their ancient craft, handed down over generations, is a flourishing industry today. Wooden carvings are made and offered for sale at the Mbun- gura Woodcraft Co-operative, which has its main workshop and office in the town. History: The Okavango River and its broad ﬂood plains, makes the Ka- vango Region considerably greener than the rest of Namibia. The river

34 By Plane By Car

Botswana Fly from Windhoek Hosea Kutako Link a self-drive safari through airport on Air Namibia, on a regular Namibia with a visit to the scheduled flight to Maun, for a safari Kalaghadi Transfrontier Park in in the Okavango delta. South Africa and Botswana with * Fly from Windhoek to Katima the eastern part of Namibia, the Mulilo (Mapacha airport), for a safari Kalahari. in Chobe National park and on to the Okavango delta.

South Africa • Fly from Windhoek to Cape • Link a self-drive safari to Town or Johannesburg on Air southern Namibia with a Namibia, Comair, South visit to the Richtersveld in African Airways on frequent South Africa daily scheduled flights • Link a self-drive safari through Namibia with a visit to the Kalaghadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa and Botswana with the eastern part of Namibia, the Kalahari.

Zimbabwe Fly from Windhoek Hosea Kutako Include Vic Falls in a self-drive airport to Vic Falls. safari which includes a visit to Caprivi and fly back to Windhoek on a scheduled Air Namibia flight, or a scheduled flight to Johannesburg in South Africa.

Zambia Fly from Windhoek Hosea Kutako Include Livingstone/Vic Falls in a airport to Vic Falls, in Zimbabwe and self-drive safari which includes a transfer to Livingstone. visit to Caprivi and fly back to Fly to Lusaka on a scheduled flight Windhoek on a scheduled Air on Air Namibia from Windhoek. Namibia flight from Vic Falls, or a scheduled flight to Johannesburg in South Africa from Livingstone.

35 NAMIBIA TIPS

Currency: The Namibia Dollar (N$) The Namibia Dollar and South African Rand are the only legal tender in Namibia and can be used freely to purchase goods and services. Time Zones: Summer time: GMT + 2 hours from the 1st Sunday in September to the 1st Sunday in April. Winter time: GMT + 1 hour from the 1st Sunday in April to the 1st Sunday in September. Tips for transportation around Namibia defined tracks and roads. Deviating off existing tracks not only spoils the scenery and enjoyment of others, but also destroys plants and There are several ways to get around Namibia: small creatures. In certain areas, such as the gravel plains, a single • Scheduled tours in luxury coaches, microbuses or 4x4 vehicles set of tracks can remain visible for decades. • Train • Respect the culture and traditions of those inhabiting the area • Charter airplanes (“Fly-in Safaris”) through which you are travelling. Remember you are the guest, and • Air Namibia, Namibia’s national carrier with due respect, Namibians will make you feel that way! • Your own rental car (“Self-drive Safaris”) in sedans or 4x4 vehicles • Bear in mind that in the event of an unexpected breakdown, assis- that will take you off the beaten track (ideal for camping) tance could be days away. A minimum of two vehicles travelling to- • Specialized tailor-made tours where the mode of transportation can gether is, therefore, strongly recommended. be a combination of planes and cars • Vehicles must be equipped with at least two spare wheels, basic spares and tools for emergency repairs, jumper cables and recovery Taxis equipment such as towing ropes, plus several gallons of extra water • Windhoek and other major cities offer private, 24-hour taxi service for their inhabitants! • A scheduled bus service and private operators transport passengers in • Engage four-wheel drive and manually lock front hubs (if required) registered taxis to and from Hosea Kutako International Airport and before negotiating difficult terrain such as loose sand, rocky areas or the capital city, Windhoek. steep inclines or declines. Inspect the terrain for obstacles and plan • Private mini-bus services run between major centers within Namibia, your route accordingly. while a large bus service connects Walvis Bay, Swakopmund and Wind- • In sandy terrain, deflate the tire pressure to about 1 Kpa (front) and hoek with Johannesburg, Cape Town, Pretoria, Upington, and other 1.2 Kpa (rear). If your vehicle becomes stuck, remember that brute towns and cities in South Africa. This bus service also travels to Victo- force will not get you out of trouble. If anything, you’ll become ria Falls, Zimbabwe and Livingstone, Zambia. Visit bogged down even more. Stop immediately and observe the situation. www.intercape.co.za for more information. Check whether the vehicle is engaged in four-wheel drive and the front hubs are locked, and clear the sand in front and behind the Tips for exploring lesser known regions of Namibia wheels before attempting to drive away. The best-known tourist attractions in Namibia include the dunes at Sos- • Other options are to deflate the tires a little more or jack the vehicle susvlei, the Etosha National Park, the Fish River Canyon and Swakop- up to place stones or dead branches under the wheels for more trac- mund. These can be reached by scheduled tours, fly-in safaris or self-drive tion before pulling away. tours. Also see tips on Safe Driving Many of the lesser-known regions and their attractions are situated in rural areas, where people still live according to age-old traditions and where desti- Tips for engaging with people of different cultures nations are mainly connected by gravel road. With proper planning, these • Respect the customs and traditions of your hosts; for example, when can also be reached by scheduled tours, fly-in safaris or self-drive tours. visiting a village, please dress appropriately. No bikini tops, mini When exploring these regions, please keep in mind: shorts or sleeveless vests. • Support local products by spending your money within the local econ- • The Namibian landscape is extremely fragile, so follow only well- omy, while at the same time experiencing the uniqueness of local res-

37 taurants, lodges and craft shops. - The Etosha National Park, including floodlit waterholes at the • Bargain fairly; make sure that after the final transaction, both you park’s three main camps and the seller are satisfied. - Damaraland for its desert adapted species, including elephants, li- • Refrain from throwing sweets or money from the car or giving random ons and black rhinos gifts to children. If you’d like to support a local community, there are - The Namib Desert for endemic species of small animals and rep- many dedicated community-based organizations operating throughout tiles Namibia that would welcome your contributions. - The coast for birds, dolphins, seals and scavengers who patrol the • Try to learn a new local word every day, be open to friendships and coastline keep in mind you are traveling in a culture different from your own! - The extreme north-east for an abundance of species, including It can be frustrating, but ultimately it will be rewarding. 450 species of birds • Namibians are very relaxed people, so please be patient and enjoy - The north-east for vast populations of elephants and rare antelope this relaxed pace of life. such as roan and sable - The south for its spectacular wild horses - Tips for Photography Namibia is a photographer’s paradise. You may have clients who want to When photographing local people you’ll want to be respectful of their culture and space. spend their entire trip taking pictures or some who wish to do so casually. Remember not to photograph anyone without their consent. Regardless, its useful to know where you can photograph what. Below we have shared award-winning Namibian photographer Amy Schoe- man tips on lenses, and when to unpack your camera equipment: *Tip: Recommend that guests Plan on taking photos in the early morn- ings and late afternoons when the light is best. *A good zoom is the key for photographing wildlife, because then you’re prepared for all possibilities. If your clients ask where the best places for capturing stunning images are, * Fixed lenses are ultimately better in terms of sharpness, so if you’re aim- you can suggest the following: ing to win competitions or blow your pictures up into massive prints, go for a long fixed telephoto lens, as long as you can carry. Fixed lenses also work Landscapes: Namibia is a country of endless horizons. The following ar- best when photographing birds. eas define the country’s stunning contrasts: *As these lenses can be heavy, you will need to bring a tripod, or at least a beanbag, especially handy when travelling by car. - The dune sea of the Namib Desert *For landscapes, the best is a short telephoto lens (110 or 135 for 35mm/ - Open savannahs of the south 150 for medium format), and - Ancient rock art of the central and northern regions *wide angle for certain shots. Take note that the wide angle has limitations - The mountains of the north-west when it comes to landscapes. It’s better suited for trees and buildings and - The forests of the north-east the elements like these that are the focus of an image. - Riverine environments of the extreme north-east *If you’re into close-ups, bring a good micro/macro lens rather than close- up filters. Extension tubes, although tedious, also do the job.

Close-up photography can be very rewarding in Namibia as there are Wildlife many interesting insects and small reptiles, amazing textures, plants with

38 intriguing ﬂowers, seeds and leaves, lichen and so on. Even sand grains look great through a macro lens.

*The best time of day to shoot is early morning or late afternoon. Of these two I have always felt, depending on subject and angle, that late afternoon has the edge. This is when the colours become really deep, the atmosphere has a glow (early morning light can be bleak) and if you’re into sunsets, this is the time to shoot, as there’s a lot of dust hanging around for strong reds and oranges and silhouettes become spectacular. However, this does not mean that you must never take photographs in the middle of the day. If the scene looks good to you, take the picture, because what you see is what you get. Which, incidentally, means you can take pictures of mirages although they are optical illusions. They are at their most striking in the middle of the day.

39 WHAT MAKES NAMIBIA SPECIAL

Endless horizons, clear skies and a population density that ranks among the lowest in the world – it all combines to give visitors a true sense of freedom. This is part of what makes Namibia the quintessential African vacation. Whether your interest is in wildlife, landscape, adventure, people, culture – your days here will be filled with plenty of sunshine, beautiful sights and unforgettable experiences found nowhere else on earth. Only in Namibia. What Makes Namibia Special? In the south, stretching from the Ai// Richtersveld Transfrontier Park to Safety – Namibia is Safe! Namibia is a vast country to explore and even the Sperrgebiet is one of the world’s top 25 biodiversity hotspots with the if you feel alone, you aren’t far away from being connected. The cell highest species-rich desert ecological system in the world (over 1 600 differ- phone network covers 90 % of the country, and a good road system links ent plant species). Between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, there are up to you from city to city, village to village. With its friendly and sparse popula- 770 birds per kilometre of beach, including 98% of the world’s population tion, you won’t encounter arbitrary road blocks in Namibia where people of Damara Terns. ask for hand-outs or bribes, but you will find help where you need it, including a fly in medical evacuation service, if your insurance provides coverage With 42% of the country under conservation management, even our an- and if not, you can buy this extra piece of mind when you arrive in Na- cient rock art, like that found at Twyfelfontein, a world heritage site, speaks mibia. to the country’s tight relationships between biodiversity and humans.

Undiscovered – Namibia is Undiscovered! While Namibia’s Sossusvlei and the Etosha National Park are well-worth exploring, there is much more Wildlife to Namibia than athese iconic destinations. Namibia is vast and largely un- Where in the world will you find a country where there are more wild ani- discovered by tourists. Take the road less travelled to all points, north, east, mals outside than inside national parks? Namibia, of course. This range south and west and encounter indigenous people and their fascinating cul- of spectacular wildlife isn’t limited to stunning, yet docile antelope, it in- tures, wildlife that roams free outside of national parks on across communal cludes large animals, like lions, elephants, black rhinos and the world’s larg- and commercial land, and landscapes that will take your breath away. est population of cheetah. In fact, Namibia is home to 576 bird species and 258 mammals. Liberating – Namibia is liberating! In Namibia there are fewer than 6 people Conservancies per square mile, however, since most of the population is centered on Wind- Part of Namibia’s wildlife story is conservancies. Understanding conservan- hoek and a few cities in the north, this statistic is misleading. There are cies in Namibia will come in handy as a tourism professional as many tour- places in Namibia were there are no people per square mile, mile after mile ists ask specifically about this innovative and important initiative. after mile. This space and the silence it brings allow you to still the voice in your head and listen to your heart. In Namibia, peace and exhilaration After independence in 1990, visionary conservationists within the Ministry are just a moment away. of Environment & Tourism and in the field worked together to implement policy changes that enabled rural communities to benefit from wildlife by Our Key Assets forming conservancies. We have four key assets that our target markets are most interested in. They are: Once the legislation was passed in 1996, the conservancy movement spread Nature rapidly across the country. The first four conservancies were registered in From lush rivers to the oldest desert on earth and five wetlands of interna- 1998. Today, there are over 60 conservancies, covering well over 17 % of tional importance, Namibia is rich in biodiversity, with many endemic spe- the country and embracing one in four rural Namibians. cies (locally adapted species that occur nowhere else in the world) and fragile landscapes. An estimated 185 000 species of plants, animals and other Conservancies use a mix of traditional knowledge and skills and modern living organisms are found in Namibia. approaches and technologies to manage their resources. Each conservancy

41 employs a number of game guards to monitor resources, mitigate human In 2010, Namibia’s Communal Conservancy Tourism sector was selected wildlife conflict and control poaching. Wildlife is monitored using an innova- as a finalist in the Tourism For Tomorrow Awards, organized by the World tive, home-grown Event Book system, as well as through annual game Travel and Tourism Council. counts. Source: Keith Sproule – WWF in Namibia The annual North West Game Count is the largest road-based game count in the world. Around 300 people take part, covering over 17 million acres Culture and 4,350 miles of road transects to simultaneously count game in 30 adja- Namibia has a rich ethnic diversity and cultural heritage. Inhabitants vary cent conservancies and tourism concessions. from hunter-gatherers, herders and farmers in the rural regions to semi- skilled, skilled and highly skilled people, including traders, industrialists, Namibia is the only country in the world that is moving rare and endan- civil servants and individuals providing professional services, in urban areas. gered species such as black rhino from national parks to conservancies. Be- Notable examples of Namibia’s diverse cultural groups are Herero women cause local people have a voice in the management of wildlife and benefit in their distinctive Victorian-style dresses; the Nama and Damara who from its presence, the population of black rhino, elephant and lions is also speak with intriguing click sounds; Himba women with their intricate hair- growing in conservancies. styles and ornamental copper necklaces and anklets; and the San (Bush- men), the last representatives of the hunter-gatherer tradition. And it is pos- Community-based natural resource management is enabling the growth of sible to meet rural and urbanised Namibians because they are friendly, a new rural economy. People are engaging in a great variety of new eco- open and welcoming. Local tour operators have taken care to develop itiner- nomic activities, many of which are breathing new life into traditional skills aries which includes visits to communities in rural areas where villagers are that were in danger of being lost. Traditional craft production is important happy share their every day lives with visitors. in many areas. The export of indigenous plant products, based on age old traditional knowledge, is another dynamic new sector. There are many aspects of Namibian culture. Below we highlight people, crafts, food and festivals to give you a brief over- Today there are well over 30 joint-venture lodges operating in communal view of some of the cultural elements that will help sell Na- conservancies across Namibia. The benefits they generate allow conservan- mibia as a tourism destination. cies to cover their own running costs, invest in community development pro- People of Namibia jects and provide individual household benefits. In essence, the conservancy movement is both a conservation and rural development programme. You may have seen memorable images of Namibian people, Herero women in distinctive Victorian-style dresses; the Nama and Damara who The programme has delivered great conservation results, but it has also pro- speak with intriguing click sounds; Himba women with their intricate hair- vided important employment, significant income and a great range of styles and ornamental copper necklaces and anklets; and the San (Bush- other benefits to rural people in remote areas who in the past had few liveli- men), one of the world’s last representatives of the hunter-gatherer tradi- hood options. In 2009, community-based natural resource management tion. Namibia has a rich ethnic diversity and cultural heritage. In fact, there generated six million dollars for local communities – which excludes the in- are 2.5 million Namibians and they vary from hunter-gatherers, herders come generated for the private sector. The overall contribution to the net and farmers to a cosmopolitan, urban population. national income was worth 33.5 million dollars.

42 The cultures of Namibia’s diverse population groups are fast becoming an im- For the most part, Coloreds maintain a western culture and way of life. portant drawing card for tourists. Visitors are taken on guided tours, often by They speak Afrikaans as a home language, although their accent differs. trained local guides, to visit traditional homesteads, learn about different lifestyles and buy crafts where they are produced. Damara The origins of the Damara people are an enigma to anthropologists. One Caprivians of the several puzzling aspects is that while they differ physically from the Just under 80,000 people live in East Caprivi, which borders Angola, Zim- Nama and Hai | | Om people, they also speak the Khoekhoegowab lan- babwe, Zambia and Botswana. The largest Caprivian tribal groups are the guage. Masubia and Mafwe. Other tribes are Mayeyi, Matotela, Mashi and Mbu- kushu. Traditionally, the Damara community consists of a number of subdivisions, called haoti. These are clusters of clans and extended families that were for- Within communal areas there are different levels of traditional authority. merly concentrated in specific areas, consisting of about eleven sub-groups. In Eastern Caprivi each village has a headman, generally the most senior male member. He advises the senior headman, who represents several vil- Before the arrival of the white settlers, the Damaras’ way of life was similar lages. to that of the nomadic San – they lived from hunting and veldkos. The Da- mara were outsted from their traditional areas by advancing Nama and In Caprivian society the family is the most important socioeconomic unit. Herero. In German colonial times they settled in the Okombahe environs. Families usually live in villages. Most Caprivians are subsistence farmers In 1973, an area approximately 4.7 million hectares was proclaimed as “Da- who make their living on the banks of the Zambezi, Kwando, Linyanti and maraland,” with Khorixas as its administrative capital. Following independ- Chobe rivers. In addition to fishing and hunting, a significant but not exclu- ence, this area becomes Erongo Region. sive element of the local economy, they keep cattle and cultivate the land. When the Zambezi and the Chobe rivers come down in flood, more than Herero half of Caprivi east of the Kwando may be under water. During this pe- The Herero are a pastoral cattle-breeding people who migrated to Namibia riod, Caprivians use their mikolo (dug out canoes) to traverse the routes nor- several centuries ago. mally used by trucks and pedestrians. The colonial wars and Herero-German War of 1904-1907 resulted in a Coloureds drastic decrease of the Herero population. Under General Lothar von Today people of mixed descent are an integral part of most populations Trotha, and his infamous Vernichtungsbefehl (proclamation of extermination), throughout Africa, but because of the nature of their descent, they are a large number of Herero were wiped out. Left without land and cattle, sometimes not integrated into any of the other cultural groups. This is also the survivors practically disintegrated as a group. A large number fled to the case in Namibia. One of the differences between Coloureds and Reho- Bechuanaland (Bostwana). When South Africa took over administration of both Basters is the fact that the Basters identify with the Rehoboth Gebiet the territory in 1915, the refugees began to return and were gradually allo- whereas the Coloureds have never inhabited a specific part of the country, cated home areas such as Aminuis, Epukiro, Waterberg East, Otjohorongo and were not allocated a “homeland,” as was the case with other non-white and Ovitoto. population groups during South African administration of the territory. Despite the suppression of their traditional culture, confiscation of tribal There are 50,000 Coloureds in Namibia.Its members are mixed race de- lands and the restrictions of labour laws, the remaining Herero people man- scendants of Caucasian, Malayan and indigenous Khoe and San people. aged to keep their bonds of family life, tribal solidarity and national con-

43 sciouness alive, as is demonstrated by the annual Herero Festival on Mahar- portant local industry is woodcarving. Bowls, masks, ornaments, furniture ero Day in August. and other functional items are produced.

In the 19th Century, under the influence of the wives of the missionaries, Nama Herero women developed the voluminous Victorian style dresses that the The only true descendants of the Kohekhoe in Namibia are the Nama, more traditional of them wear today. The distinctive headdress with two whose ancestors originally lived north and south of the Orange River. points symbolizes cattle horns. As pastoral nomads, the Nama traditionally had little need to build perma- Himba nent structures. Their bee-hive shaped rush mat houses were ideally suited The Himba, Tjimba and other Herero people who inhabit Namibia’s re- to their lifestyle. The concept of communal land ownership still prevails mote north-western Kunene region are loosely referred to as Kaokovelders. with all tribes except for the =|Aonin or Topnaars, whose !nara fields are Herero in terms of origin, language and culture, Kaokovelders are semi- the property of individual lineages. Today most Nama live in permanent pastoralists who tend to trek from one watering place to another. settlements. They have adopted western lifestyles and the Christian religion and work in the formal economy. The Himba are the largest group of Kaokovelders. They are tall, slender and statuesque. Women are noted for their sculptural beauty, enhanced by The Nama have much in common with the San. They are comparatively intricate hair styles and traditional adornments. They rub their bodies with light in color and generally short in stature. They speak with distinctive red ochre and fat, a treatment that protects their skins against the harsh de- clicks. sert climate. Nama people have a natural talent for music, poetry and prose. An exam- The homes of the Himba are simple, cone-shaped structures of saplings, ple of a traditional dance is the well known Nama stap. Nama women are bound together with palm leaves and plastered with mud and dung. A fire highly skilled with needlework. The content of the work is often expressive burns in the headman’s hut day and night to keep insects away and to pro- and humorous. vide light and heat. Topnaars Kavango Topnaars are a hardy group of Khoesan people who have lived on the Forming the border between Namibia and Angola for more than 400km is banks of the Kuiseb River for many years. Topnaars tend sheep and goats. the Okavango River, lifeline of the Kavango people, who make a living They have many unique traditions and customs linked to their existence in from fishing, cattle farming and cultivating sorghum, millet and maize on the Namib. They speak the Nama language, with its gutteral clicks and the wide fertile plains on either side. high musical pitch.

Today the Kavango consists of ﬁve individual tribes, namely the Kwangali, Central to the Topnaars culinary tradition is the !nara melon, a large nutri- Mbunza, Shambuyu, Gciriku and Mbukushu, each inhabiting an area of tious fruit that is endemic to the Namib and is said to have medicinal prop- its own along the Southern bank. erties. The annual harvesting of the melons in the dunes South of Walvis Bay and the traditional methods of preparing them have survived and are Each tribe is ruled by a traditional chief or chieftainess, assisted by the head- practiced to this day. men. The traditional economy in Kavango is based on a combination of horticulture (pearl millet) and animal husbandry (cattle and goats). An im-

44 Owambo San In the pre-colonial structure of Owambo society, there was a king and head- The earliest known inhabitants of Namibia are the San (Bushmen) who be- men in each of the seven Owambo groups. Judicial powers were vested in long to the Khoesan peoples. Their language is characterized by numerous village and regional courts, with the highest court being the Supreme Court clicking sounds. of the King. Today, only three of the Owambo clans (Ndonga, Ngandjera and Kwaluudhi) still recognize their kings. The rest have a system of senior These hunter gatherers roamed the vast plains of Southern Africa for thou- headmen forming a council and administering their tribes by joint action. sands of years before migrants armed with weapons and searching for new An important function of these officials is the regulation of the system of lands on which to graze their animals and plant their grain drove them fur- land ownership. ther into the Kalahari desert. Most San people now live or work on farms in eastern Namibia or live in remote communal areas in Otjozondjupa and Owambo houses are traditionally the rondavel type, mostly surrounded by Omusati. There are approx. 35,000 San people in Namibia. palisades and often connected by passages. Cattle kraals usually form part of the complex, which is surrounded by cultivated lands. The Owambo The wealth of rock paintings and engravings found in mountains and hills practise a mixed economy of agriculture and animal husbandry throughout Namibia bear witness to the Bushmen’s former habitation in many parts of the country. The Owambo people have always played an active role in politics. Na- mibia’s ruling party, SWAPO (South West African People’s Organization), Renown as great storytellers, the San express themselves eloquently in started as a non-violent pressure group referred to as the Owambo People’s prose, music, mimicry and dance. Their simplest instrument is the hunters’ Organization. bow, strung with animal hair and equipped with a hollowed out melon or empty tin can as a sound box. Rehoboth Basters The history of the Rehoboth Basters goes back to the settlement of the first While a small number of San still practise their traditional nomadic life- Dutch colonists under Jan Van Riebeeck, who landed at the Cape of Good style, the majority lead a settled existence in villages. Hope in 1652. European settlers came into contact with the indigenous Khoesan people. The children born of this association whose mixed blood Tswana origins were obvious were called “coloureds,” or “bastards,” giving rise to Numbering approximately 8000, the Tswana are the smallest cultural two culturally separate groups of people in Namibia. group in Namibia. They are related to the Batswana of Botswana and the northern Cape Province. In 1886, a group of some 90 Baster families moved to Namibia from the Cape. They first settled at Warmbad, then continued northwards, settling Namibia’s Tswana live in a triangle with a line between Epukiro and Ami- at a place 30km north of Berseba. In 1870 they were finally allowed to set- nuis in the east as its base and extending to Walvis Bay, its vertex in the tle at the hot water springs called Reheboth. Over time, the Rehoboth Ge- West. Most Namibian Twanas however, live in the Gobabis District where biet became the fatherland of the Basters and was recognized by the South they are involved in farming. African government as early as 1915. Whites Today, the Baster community consists of approximately 55,000 people. Approximately 100 000 Namibians of European descent currently live in Namibia, of whom about two thirds speak Afrikaans, one quarter German and the rest, mostly English and to a much lesser extent, Portuguese. Most

45 of them live in the urban, central and southern parts of the country and most are involved in commerce, manufacturing, farming, professional serv- If there is any Namibian experience that is popular across all cultures and ices and to a diminishing extent, the civil service. traditions, it is undoubtedly the traditional braai, an institution in house- holds from Katima Mulilo to Lüderitz. A braai typically includes lamb and The ﬁrst European missionaries, adventurers and explorers began to settle pork chops, chicken portions, beef or game steaks of different flavours in Namibia in the 1800s, initially in the South. They were mainly Afrikan- and thickness – mostly marinated in an individually concocted oil-and- ers inﬁltrating gradually from South Africa and settlers of British and Ger- spice-mix – and boerewors (farmer’s sausage), a savoury spicy Namibian man descent. and South African speciality.

In 1878, Britain annexed the area surrounding Walvis Bay. In 1884, Bis- Mahangu (pearl millet) is the staple food of countless families in the marck proclaimed German South West Africa a German protectorate, ex- north. Oshifima is a stiff porridge, made from mahangu and served cluding the Walvis Bay enclave. In 1915, the South African Forces gained with chicken, meat or edingue, a sauce made from dried meat, and is control of South West Africa and in 1920, in accordance with the Treaty of usually accompanied by ekaka, a wild spicy spinach that grows in the Versailles, South Africa took over administration of the country. mahangu fields. Oxuxwa is a dish made from fresh chicken, sometimes a bit tough, but without the meat coming off the bones as with frozen The number of whites living in Namibia who sepak English as a home lan- chicken bought in supermarkets. Oxuxwa is fried in the nutty tasting guage is surprisingly small, not more than 8000 according to the latest cen- marula oil, also produced in Namibia. sus. They don’t necessarily all have English ancestry – many are descendants from Jews, Italians, French or Portuguese people who came to settle A delicacy usually enjoyed on its own or as a starter is omaungu, or mo- in the country and adopted English as their home language. Today, Eng- pane caterpillars, named after the mopane leaves on which they feed. lish is the main language of instruction in state run schools throughout the The caterpillars are harvested, dried and cooked in oil and spices. They country. are an important source of protein in diets.

Afrikaans is a prominent language, spoken by approx. 90% of Namibians. Another Namibian delicacy is goat's head cooked on an open fire until it It is the first language of the Afrikaaner population as well as Rehoboth Bas- is tender and tasty and the flesh around the teeth becomes soft. The ters and Coloureds. goat's head seems to be smiling, which led to its nickname ‘smiley’.

Although the period of German rule ended almost a century ago, the Ger- For centuries the San people have been harvesting nuts from manketti trees man influence on Namibia’s culture, economy and infrastructure remains and edible tubers from nearby bushes as their main staple. Apart from eat- extensive. About 25,000 white German-speaking Namibians live in the ing the pulp, San tribesmen also roast manketti nuts or pound them to country. By and large these are families who have been in Namibia for make an ingredient they mix with other dishes, such as game meat. seven or eight generations. Two highly sought-after forms of edible fungi found in Namibia are oma- Food/Drink jowa, the Herero name for the large fleshy mushrooms that appear at the foot of termite hills shortly after the first good rains of the season, and Cuisine in Namibia is interesting and varied, ranging from traditional foods, the elusive Kalahari truffles found in the sandy eastern regions of the to international haute cuisine found in Windhoek, Swakopmund and even country. An omajowa can weigh up to a kilogram, and can be fried in but- in remote lodges. ter, made into soup or dried for later use, especially in stews. It tastes a

46 little like meat, possibly veal, especially when fried on an open fire. Truf- dles, jewelry, shoes made from kudu leather, Namibian music and dried fles, also known by their Nama name nabba, don’t appear every year, mopane worms. only when the rains have been late, such as in May and June, making them a rare culinary delight. The idea behind the Craft Centre is to give a platform to local Namib- ian craft-based businesses and enterprises. It’s about strength in numbers Other local specialities worth sampling are Swakopmund green asparagus and has become a focal point of development for these community busi- (September to April), Lüderitz oysters (all year round), homemade cheese nesses. The craft sector contributes significantly to job creation and pov- (including goat’s), and Namibian olives. erty alleviation, particularly amongst rural women.

Because Namibia’s cattle live entirely off savannah grasses and shrubs, Na- mibian beef is basically free-ranging, free from harmful residues, hormones Festivals/Events and antibiotics, as is Namibian mutton. Venison is becoming increasingly The annual Bank Windhoek Arts Festival (BWAF) was initiated in 2003, popular; especially ostrich, springbok and gemsbok, while game birds, croco- presenting an array of local and guest artists. In 2006 the focus was shifted dile and seafood are also highly regarded. to have a stronger Namibian flavour, boasting hundreds of Namibian amateur and professional productions and artworks. One of Namibia’s most Namibia is well known for its local beer, brewed by Nambrew according knowledgeable arts experts, Professor Aldo Behrens, formerly Dean of to the traditional purity law, the Reinheitsgebot, issued in 1516 in Bavaria, the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences and of the Department as well as the country’s ﬁrst microbrewery, Camelthorn Brewing Com- of Performing Arts at UNAM, was appointed co-ordinator of the Festi- pany. val on behalf of Bank Windhoek. Professor Behrens guided the BWAF towards a true integration of the Namibian arts – from poetry, writing, com- Wine is also produced in Namibia at the Kristall Kellerei in the Central position, choir, theatre, choreography and dance through to fashion and Namib Region. costume design, pottery and visual arts. Along with a Spring Festival during September in Windhoek and Crafts Swakopmund and a Summer Festival during December in Swakop- In earlier times functional items for domestic use were made from local mund, monthly festivals have become part of a Namibian Arts ritual. materials according to traditional designs and forms. In recent years, the The BWAF also supports a number of galleries in Windhoek where exhi- production of these items in Namibia’s rural areas has become a matter bitions of contemporary art and design are regularly held. of economic and cultural survival, especially in Owambo, Kavango and Caprivi, where baskets are still used by women in the mahangu fields The Bank Windhoek Triennale, a joint product between Bank Wind- when harvesting and winnowing their grain. Using traditional skills for a hoek and the National Art Gallery of Namibia, is a major art event in different market has enabled many women to create a vibrant and success- Namibia and biggest art competition for local artists. It took place for ful craft industry and establish a valuable source of income. the second time in 2011.

Located in the historic Old Breweries Building in Tal Street in Wind- hoek, the Namibia Craft Centre is a haven of local creativity. Visitors are able to purchase anything from soap made from wild melon seed and marula oil, to table linen, African-style shirts, unique postcards, can-

47 Erongo Region, November Khomas Region, September The two-day annual Damara Festival takes places during November at Okombahe in the Daures Constituency. It is aimed at remembering de- The City of Windhoek’s creative treat for locals and visitors – the best ceased Damara leaders and raising awareness of Damara traditions of local arts and culture – is on offer during the annual /Ae //Gams among the younger generation by the inclusion of cultural perform- Arts and Cultural Festival. The Festival aims to showcase Namibia's ances. artistic and cultural diversity through its music, cuisine, traditional attire, dance and song, contemporary visual arts, crafts, theatre and po- Chief Justus //Garoëb is currently serving as King of the Damara clan. etry at various venues throughout the city. The main objective of the He was ofﬁcially crowned in 1993, after he served as acting chief from Festival is to make Windhoek a vibrant cultural tourist destination. 1976 to 1993 as part of an arrangement with the late Damara King, The platform serves as a means of developing and promoting local tal- David Goreseb. ent to local people and to the international community. The festival is usually held in September. Caprivi Region, July The annual Masubia Cultural Festival takes place in July at Bukalo, the Hardap Region, May traditional headquarters of the Masubians, about 40 km east of Katima An annual festival that serves to strengthen the national identity of the Mulilo. The festival brings together Masubians from Namibia, Botswana Rehoboth Basters is the two-day commemoration of their confrontation and Zambia. According to Masubian tradition and culture, the cere- with the German colonial troops at Sam Khubis from 7–8 May in 1915. mony is a way of drawing memories from people with Masubian ancestors as they come together to share historical memories and cultural and A group of Basters had resisted joining and fighting for the German forces. developmental ideas. The ceremony also serves as an opportunity in Fearing for the safety of their wives and children, they left Rehoboth with which all Masubia-speaking people present gifts to their chief as re- their families and took refuge among the koppies at Sam Khubis, where quired by their culture. The current Masubia chief is His Royal High- they were ambushed by the German forces and suffered many casualties. ness Munitenge Kisco Liswani III. Unexpectedly the Germans withdrew, leaving the Basters with the impres- sion that they had retreated. Since then the Basters have commemorated As inhabitants of eastern Caprivi, the Masubian tribe is known for its their ‘victory’ on these two days every year at Sam Khubis. special culture, referred to as Buinkuhane. A large number of Masubian people lived within the vast northeastern Zambezi plains of Namibia. Erongo Region, September They are known for their love of water, their special interest in bream Every year the artists’ community of Omaruru presents an Artists’ from the Zambezi River, and water lilies, which form part of their diet. Trail. Over the first weekend of September, open studios and outdoor Buinkuhane is a diverse cultural heritage that has spread to the northwest- exhibits draw visitors to Namibia from around Southern Africa and ern parts of Botswana. A small number of this tribe is also distributed beyond. During 2009 the Omunto Garden was opened with an exhibi- along Zambia's south and southwestern provinces, where members have tion of over 50 sculptures by five Namibian sculptors. The creator of mixed with the Matoka and Balozi tribes. Umunto, which means ‘human being’ in Oshiwambo, Hanne Alpers, keeps the garden as a peace park and permanent display area for Caprivi Region, August sculptural art. The people in the Caprivi Region celebrate their traditional culture at the end of August with the Caprivi Regional Cultural Festival. Tradi- tional dances, music, food, values, language, handicraft products and cus-

48 toms are celebrated as tools of uniting people from different ethnic groups. In 2011 about 15 adult cultural groups and 20 from schools par- Adventure ticipated in the festival. It was stressed that cultures should be promoted With its wide-open spaces, sunny climate and diversity of landscapes, Na- and practiced in schools, as young people are crucial for keeping cultures mibia offers an extensive range of outdoor activities that cater for adventur- alive elsewhere in the world. ers of all kinds, from confirmed adrenaline junkies to others seeking less exhilarating but equally rewarding adventures. There is abseiling a steep Caprivi Region, August cliff face and shooting the rapids of the Kunene River, catching the fero- A colourful event takes place each year in August at the Mashi Crafts cious tiger fish, and dune boarding down the Namib dunes. When hiking market in Caprivi. The Mashi Crafts Festival provides an opportunity for on the Waterberg Plateau you could come face to face with a rhino, and craft makers, primarily women, from all over Caprivi to adorn their in Namibia’s interior there are several subterranean caverns to explore. brightest and finest chetenges and show off their artistry. They compete for Other appealing options include paragliding, skydiving, exploring the Na- prizes and present traditional dances and plays to their colleagues and mib on the back of a camel or horse. Explore the back roads on bicycle, guests. It is through the making and selling of the crafts that these traverse the land in an aircraft or paddle out on the lagoon in a sea women have managed to revive long-lost skills, keeping cultural tradi- kayak to get up-close to the cape fur seal. tions alive whilst at the same time inspiring the younger generations to be proud of their ancestry and roots. They are the creative entrepreneurs in Caprivi. They experiment with new product designs and adjust their skills to keep up with market demands. Most importantly, they are managing their resources in a sustainable way so that future generations can continue to benefit from the natural environment that is unique to Ca- privi.

Kunene Region, August The Hizetjitwa Indigenous Peoples Organization (HIPO) introduced its ﬁrst two-day cultural festival in August 2011. It consisted of traditional performances by the Himba, Zemba, Tjimba and Twa tribes, and was held in an open area on the outskirts of Opuwo in the Kunene Region. At the opening of the event, the governor of the region, Ambassador Joshua //Hoëbeb, called for the realization of a Namibian culture that will include all Namibians. About 250 of the 2 000 HIPO members from the 85 registered villages in the region took part in the festival. HIPO is an organization that works towards the improvement of indigenous people in Namibia and Angola to retain their culture and values, meet the challenges of contemporary society and improve their living conditions.

49 RESPONSIBLE TOURISM IN NAMIBIA

Namibia is the first country in the world to incorporate environmental protection into its Constitution. From this commitment many Community Based Tourism options have sprung forth, each providing real monetary and social benefits to the local communities who provide them, and ultimately a more authentic Namibian experience to the tourists who visit. Responsible Tourism in Namibia Any accommodation establishment in Namibia can apply for the Desert Flower emblem awarded to establishments working successfully in accor- Communal Conservancies dance with sustainability principles. Candidates are assessed according to A fast-expanding field of environmental management is communal conserv- criteria such as water and wastewater management, waste management in- ancies, which are managed by local inhabitants, provide employment and cluding recycling practices, energy management, approach towards the ecol- give locals the opportunity to benefit directly from their wildlife and other ogy, sustainable construction and landscaping practices and their staff devel- natural resources. There are currently 65 registered communal conservan- opment programmes and involvement in the development of local commu- cies in Namibia, covering 17% of the land. The Namibia Association of nities. Community-Based Natural Resource Management Support Organisations (NACSO) is an association comprising 15 Non-Government Organisations The emblem of eco awards Namibia is a yellow desert flower. As in the star- (NGOs) and the University of Namibia. The purpose of NACSO is to pro- grading system used for the hospitality sector, enterprises qualifying for an vide quality services to rural communities seeking to manage and utilise eco award are rewarded with between one and five desert flowers. For one their natural resources in a sustainable manner. The acronym for the Com- flower the applicant, ranging from hotels or lodges to community-based munity Based Natural Resource Management programme is CBNRM. camps, has to achieve at least 50 per cent, while five flowers are awarded when the candidate attains 90 per cent or more. The grading is effective for For more information visit: www.nacso.org.na two years, after which the candidate can apply to be evaluated afresh. Or email: [email protected] The eco awards Namibia is the only existing certification scheme, rating sus- The tourism industry has played a significant role in the success of commu- tainability of tourism establishments in Namibia. nity conservation. The first joint-venture lodge was developed before the For more information visit: www.ecoawards-namibia.org registration of the first conservancy. It demonstrated to the people that they Or email: [email protected] could generate significant benefits from wildlife conservation. Today there are well over 30 joint-venture lodges operating in communal conservancies Black Economic Empowerment across Namibia. The benefits they generate allow conservancies to cover Black Economic Empowerment (BEE) is a major transformation effort to their own running costs, invest in community development projects and pro- bring formerly disadvantaged Namibians into the economic sector through vide individual household benefits. In essence, the conservancy movement legislation. The goal behind it is to develop a comprehensive framework for is both a conservation and rural development programme, and their lodges the empowerment of previously disadvantaged Namibians on the princi- are some of the best in the country. ples of social justice, economic growth and transformation.

For more information visit: www.NamibiaCommunalConservancies.com Volunteering Namibia offers a variety of volunteer programs focused on wildlife conser- Eco-Awards Namibia vation, health care, the environment and teaching. Volunteers usually com- The eco awards Namibia programme was launched in 2004 to promote sus- mit themselves for a period of one year, although shorter programs are also tainable tourism practices, where sustainable practices are deﬁned as “…de- available. velopment that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs and aspirations,” by the World Commission on Envi- Below are some organizations that offer volunteer opportunities (for more ronment and Development in 1987. information on conservation speciﬁc organizations see “Conservation Inita- tives”):

51 People and Wildlife Solutions (PAWS) offer a conservation working The Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) offers programs to volunteers holiday program to restore the land from an overgrazed cattle farm back as working guests, interns and zookeepers. Volunteers cover the costs of into a game reserve. PAWS is part of Okonjima and Africat, and the resto- training, accommodation and meals. Volunteers and student interns partici- ration of land for wildlife is part of their shared vision. The program also pate in a variety of general tasks and operations of the program, in addi- offers volunteers the chance to see cheetah stalking and hunting their prey. tion to a focus area. Your focus area will depend on your background, areas Volunteer duties include constructing fences for cheetahs and cleaning the of interest and length of stay at CCF. The best qualiﬁcation for our pro- water troughs of the wild dogs. gram is a willingness to help out wherever needed. For more information visit: www.pawsnamibia.org For more information visit: www.ccf.org The Elephant Human Relations Aid (EHRA) runs an elephant con- Volunteers at Harnas participate in daily activities such as food prepara- servation and volunteer project that aims to reduce elephant-human con- tion, feeding, caretaking, fence patrol, research on rehabilitating animals ﬂict in the southern Kunene region of Namibia. Volunteers construct pro- and animal walks. Harnas gives volunteers the opportunity to make a differ- tection walls around water points and join the EHRA trackers on weeklong ence in the animals’ lives, ideally to live a life free of human disturbance. elephant patrols. For more information visit: www.harnas.org For more information visit: www.desertelephant.org

The Namib Desert Environmental Education Trust (NaDEET) is a non-profit organization that provides environmental education for Namibi- Cultural Tourism ans. This includes not only increasing awareness and knowledge, but also Namibia’s richness in cultural and natural heritage represents the basis for increasing eco-friendly attitudes and skills. NaDEET addresses environ- the development of cultural tourism. Cultural tourism is especially impor- mental issues through experimental learning and has signed an agreement tant for the local communities involved, as it allows them the opportunity to with the US Peace Corps to host a two-year long volunteer through the get an alternative means of income. It is thus a means of sustainable tour- community health program. For more information visit: www.nadeet.org ism for local communities. Some companies focus specifically on cultural tourism, while others offer it as a by-product to their existing portfolios. N/a’an ku sê offers four different volunteer programs, ranging from health care and teaching to conservation. Volunteers can offer their services The Living Culture Foundation is a good example of cultural tourism, as it to provide primary health care for the San Bushman community or assist showcase different ethnic groups in their traditional environments. Guests the teacher at the Clever Cubs School, which provides education to the San can partake in the activities, buy crafts and curios and sleep over at the spe- Bushman children. By volunteering for wildlife conservation, duties include cific camps. feeding and caring for baboons, farm animals and large carnivores. N/a’an ku sê also has a new research base in southern Namibia at Solitaire, For more information: www.lcfn.info which offers volunteers the opportunity to spend 10 days tracking wild cheetahs in a 500ha boma as well as conducting game counts and camera trap The Okahandja Cultural Village is another example of cultural tourism. It houses homesteads of seven of Namibia’s cultural groups – the San, analysis. Tswana, Caprivian, Damara, Ovahimba/Ovahere and Owambo – with

the aims of preserving and teaching the country’s cultural diversity. It is For more information visit: www.naankuse.com situated 10 km outside Okahandja off the Hochveld Road. Email [email protected] for more information.

52 stamped visa pages in their passports prior to commencing travel (this does Visits to Bushmen communities in eastern Namibia, and Himba settle- NOT include the annotation/endorsement pages at the back of the ments in the northwestern region can be arranged by lodges in the area passport). Travelers merely transiting other countries (those not stopping and tour operators. over in the country or exiting the international terminal in regional airports) on their way to/from Namibia, may not require visa stamps in those Getting Here & Around countries and therefore may require fewer blank pages for travel. Namib- ian or other regional immigration officials may require as many as two sepa- Entry Requirements rate blank visa pages for each port arrival or border crossing; travelers with For detailed information visit the US Embassy in Windhoek’s website insufficient blank pages risk being denied entry. http://windhoek.usembassy.gov/travel_to_namibia.html For Canadians, please refer to the Canadian Consulate in Windhoek http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/southafrica-afriquedusud/offices-b ureaux/contact_windhoek_contactez.aspx?lang=eng&view=d Summary: North American citizens visiting Namibia on business or leisure do not need a visa when entering Namibia for up to 90 days. Passports must be valid for up to six months after date of entry and it is recommended to have six empty pages. A valid return ticket, or proof of ticket, needs to be provided when entering the country. Keep in mind the final de- cision for time of entry rests in the hands of the Namibian immigration official. Passports: In order for U.S. passports to be considered valid for travel to Namibia, they must be valid for at least six months beyond the traveler’s planned date of exit from Namibia. Travelers with insufficient passport va- lidity are strongly advised to obtain a new passport prior to travel. The U.S. Embassy cannot provide new passports on an emergency basis if U.S. citizen travelers are denied admission at the port of entry for this reason.

Visas: Bearers of U.S. passports who plan to visit Namibia for tourism or informal business meetings for less than 90 days may obtain visas at the port of entry free of charge. Travelers coming for study or work in any capacity – even if the work is unpaid or voluntary – must obtain appropriate study/work permits prior to entering Namibia. Namibian ofﬁcials will not issue such permits at the port of entry.

Blank Visa Pages: All travelers to or from Namibia via other countries in the region are strongly encouraged to have a minimum of six or more un-

53 GETTING TO NAMIBIA

While getting here may take a little effort, getting around Namibia is remarkably easy for all levels of travelers. Roads are generally good, routes well marked, and Namibia is full of friendly, helpful people to guide you along the way. With proper planning and packing, the country is yours. Getting To Namibia Domestic Flights ) Most visitors enter Namibia at Hosea From Hosea Kutako International Airport, you can flight Air Namibia to Kutako International Airport located the following domestic destinations: 45km east of Windhoek. International - Walvis Bay flights arrive multiple times through- - out the week from Johannesburg and Lüderitz Frankfurt via a number of carriers in- - Oranjemund (Not shown on map, because it was only effective cluding Air Namibia. Other airlines as from 1 October 2011) with scheduled flights to Namibia in- From Eros Airport in Windhoek, Air Namibia flies to: clude British Airways, South African - Ondangwa Airways, Luftansa and TAAG, the An- golan national airline. - Rundu Aiprot - Mpacha Aiprot (approx. 20km southwest of Katima Mulilo)

Destinations covered by national To Flying time Travel Times: airports (from Windhoek) To Windhoek from Frankfurt. Approximately 11 hours. Eros Airport Katima Mulilo 2h45min Hosea Kutako International Airport Lüderitz 0h45min To Windhoek from the USA via South Africa. Approximately 19 hours. Hosea Kutako International Airport Oranjemund 1h55min To Windhoek from Johannesburg/Cape Town. Approximately 2 hours. Eros Airport Ondangwa 1h35min Eros Airport Rundu 1h30min To Windhoek from London. Approximately 12 hours. Hosea Kutako International Airport Walvis Bay 0h35min Air Namibia Air Namibia flies into Namibia from: The following companies offers personalised fly-in safaris: Skeleton Coast Fly-in Safaris, Wings Over Africa, Desert Air, Wil- Frankfurt to Windhoek six days a week. derness Air (previously Sefofane Air Charters), and African Profile Cape Town and Johannesburg and vice versa seven days a week. Safaris. Accra, Ghana are five days a week. Ground Transport If you’d like to contact Air Namibia for group bookings you can call toll If you want to drive in Namibia – there are many options from organized free at 1.800.626.4242 or email: [email protected]. or scheduled tours, to car rentals/self-drive, buses, luxury couches, mini Getting around by Plane buses, taxis, trains and luxury trains. If you’re feeling adventurous, some Namibia is a country geared towards aviation. Not only does it have top- car-rental services also provides motorcycle rentals – don’t forget your hel- class flight schools and aviation engineers; almost every guest farm and met! lodge in the country has its own landing strip. There are more than 300 known airfields in Namibia. Private air charters within Namibia can be expanded to cross-border destinations. Experienced local pilots have an intimate knowledge of the country.

55 Car Rental tional Airport and the capital. Daily shuttle services such as Metsweding Trav- Arterial paved roads like the TransCaprivi and TransKalahari highways els, Welwitschia, Town Hoppers and Carlo’s Shuttle and Tours transport link all four corners of Namibia. Where these paved roads end, gravel guests between Windhoek and Swakopmund, or Walvis Bay. The Desert Run- roads take over and cover the rest of the country. ner travels between Windhoek and Wolwedans in the Sossusvlei environs three times a week, while Tok Tokkie Shuttles travels between Windhoek, Prices for renting a vehicle vary depending on the type of car. However, it Swakopmund, Walvis Bay and Gobabis. is recommended to get a 4 x4 for the added clearance and power beneﬁts should you venture off the paved roads. Trains Many major rental companies operate all throughout Namibia. The follow- Trans-Namib Railways’s Starline Passenger Services connects most of the ing are registered with the Car Rental Association of Namibia (CARAN), a major towns in the west and the south, but be prepared for lengthy jour- non-profit association of 18 members that was established to protect tour- neys as trains tend to stop at every station. First and second-class carriages ists and the car-rental industry against sub-standard service: are available with light refreshments offered on some services. Advanced Car Hire, Africa 4x4 Rentals, African Car Hire, African Sun The Desert Express is a world-class, luxury facility that provides overnight Car Hire, African Tracks 4x4 Car Hire, Andes Car Rental, Asco Car Hire, scenic journeys between Windhoek and Swakopmund, stopping along the Autovermietung Savanna, Avis-Rent-A-Car, Budget-Rent-A-Car, Camel way for excursions, and seven-day journeys to the Etosha National Park. Car Hire, Camping Car Hire, Caprivi Car Hire, Europcar, Hertz, Odyssey Car Hire, Okavango Car Hire, Pegasus Car & Camper Hire. Rail travel in Namibia has become so popular that several South African Buses trains regularly visit the country. These include the luxurious Rovos Rail service, the Shongololo Express, and JB Train Tours. The Intercape Mainliner runs direct overnight services from Windhoek to Cape Town and Pretoria, as well as services to Johannesburg via Upington. Taxis It also covers domestic destinations, which includes Karibib, Usakos, Taxis are readily available in all major cities and towns and are affordable Swakopmund and Walvisbay to the west, and Okahandja, Otjiwarongo, and mostly reliable, but the ride can be somewhat nerve wrecking, depend- Otavi, Tsumeb, Grootfontein, Rundu, Beganie, Kongola and Katima Mu- ing on trafﬁc and the driver’s mood. Legal taxis are marked by large num- lilo to the north. From Katima Mulilo the service continues up to bers on the rear window and on the sides of the vehicle. Livingstone/the Victoria Falls in Zambia. To the east, the bus stops in Gobabis and Buitepos on the border with Botswana. To the south of Wind- Example price: A ride from a suburb in Windhoek to the city centre costs hoek the bus covers Rehoboth, Mariental, Keetmanshoop, Grünau, Karas- about N$8 (about US$1 in November 2011). burg, Ariamsvlei and Noordoewer before crossing over to South Africa. Private operators transport passengers in registered taxis to and From Hosea The Ekonolux bus service travels between Walvis Bay, Windhoek, Noor- Kutako International Airport. doewer, Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Bellville and Paarl twice a week; Bailey’s Reo Liner travels three times per week from Windhoek to Cape Town; the Zambia-Namibia Express travels between Windhoek, Lusaka and Victoria Falls twice a week; and the Botswana-based AT&T Monnakgotla bus service operates between Windhoek and Gaborone twice a week.

A scheduled bus service takes visitors to and from Hosea Kutako Interna-

56 Travel Times The table below shows a circular route of the most famous tourist attrac- Distances between main towns: tions, by air Destination A Destination B Main route Estimated Destination en route Mod (In Miles) time e of Departing Destination B Time/Distance Destination C Time/Distance tran Destination between between spor Swakopmund Etosha (Mokuti) 2h14min Tsumkwe 1h39min t Swakopmund Etosha (Ongava) 1h46min Windhoek (Eros) 1h43min Noordoewer Keetmanshoop 189 3.5h Grünau Car Swakopmund Epupa 2h52min Windhoek 3h19min Ariamsvlei Keetmanshoop 184 3 – 3.5h Karasburg, Grünau Fish River Canyon Sossusvlei (Geluk) 1h37min Etosha (Ongava) 2h40min Lüderitz Swakopmund 2h02min Purros 2h05min Keetmanshoop Lüderitz 212 4h Aus Car Lüderitz Sossusvlei (Geluk) 1h02min Twyfelfontein 2h09min Windhoek Tsumkwe 2h11min Etosha (Ongava) 2h09min Keetmanshoop Mariental 142 2.5h Car Windhoek Swakopmund 1h10min Fish River 2h54min Mariental Rehoboth 110 2h Car

Mariental Maltahöhe 66 1h Car

Maltahöhe Solitaire 95 2h Car Circular routes covering the most famous tourist attractions, BY CAR: Maltahöhe Sossusvlei 100 2h Solitaire Sossusvlei 57 1h Car Departing Destination Destination B Distance between (In miles) Solitaire Walvis Bay 133 2.5h Car Windhoek Sossusvlei (Via the C24/C26/D1261 153/205/219 Walvis Bay Swakopmund 22 0.5h Car passes) Swakopmund Okahandja 182 3h Usakos, Karibib Car Sossuvlei Swakopmund 212 Swakopmund Terrace Bay 247 4h Wlotzkas Baken, Henties Bay, Cape Cross, Torra Bay Swakopmund Windhoek 218 Karibib Omaruru 37 1h Windhoek Etosha NP (Okaukuejo) 268 Okahandja Windhoek 44 1h Car Etosha NP (Namutoni) Rundu 250 Windhoek Rehoboth 55 1h Car Windhoek Buitepos 196 3h Witvlei, Gobabis Car Rundu Katima Mulilo 318 Okahandja Otjiwarongo 110 2h Car Katima Mulilo Windhoek 735 Otjiwarongo Outjo 43 1h Car Windhoek Damaraland (Khorixas) 281 Outjo Okaukuejo 71 1h Car Outjo Khorixas 84 1.5h Car Khorixas Palmwag 88 Otjiwarongo Tsumeb 114 2h Otavi Palmwag Purros 130 Tsumeb Namutoni 67 1h Car Purros Opuwo 150 Tsumeb Ondangwa 152 2.5h Oshivela, Omuthiya, Car Onankali Opuwo Epupa 117 Ondangwa Oshikango 42 1h Car Epupa Ruacana 90 Ondangwa Ruacana 99 1.5 – 2h Oshakati, Uutapi Ruacana Opuwo 91 1.5h Car Ruacana Etosha NP (Namutoni) 222 Opuwo Epupa 117 2h Car Namutoni Windhoek 335 Tsumeb Grootfontein 35 1h Car Windhoek Fish River Canyon (Ai Ais) 456 Grootfontein Rundu 148 2.5h Car Rundu Katima Mulilo 318 5h Nyangani, Mukwe, Andara, Car Ai Ais Keetmanshoop 149 Bagani, Kongola Keetmanshoop Lüderitz 212 Katima Mulilo Ngoma 42 1h Car Lüderitz Windhoek 518 Windhoek Ruacana 534 9h Car Windhoek Solitaire 96/148/16 2h/2.5h/ Car (Via the C24/C26/ 2 2.5h D1261 passes)

57 Quiz 1

Question 1 of 6 Statistically speaking, there are less than ____ people per square mile in Namibia:

A. 12

B. 100

C. 59

D. 6

Check Answer

58 PROTECTED AREAS

Spread throughout Namibia on an amazing scale, game parks and nature reserves constitute some 18% percent of the country’s available surface area. Some, like the huge Etosha National Park, focus primarily on wildlife, while others like the Namib-Naukluft Park and Fish River Canyon are more landscape oriented, their natural beauty easily upstaging the game. Regardless, these parks represent a network of Namibia’s most sought-after tourist destinations and often include a wide-range of adventure, camping, hiking and wilderness activities. Understanding conservation in Namibia National Parks Namibia Video National Parks and Game Reserves forms part of the Protected Areas Network, listed below: Bwabwata National Park In 2007 the former Caprivi Game Park, proclaimed in 1966, was gazet- In order to help the understanding of conservation history in 2 Namibia view the following video. ted and proclaimed as the 2 355- mile Bwabwata National Park, to include the Kwando or ‘Golden Triangle’, and the Buffalo and Mahango (the former Mahango Game Park) core areas. This heralds a new generation of parks in terms of an integrated approach towards the environment. The park was designed not only to protect the environment, but also to generate income for the country.

The central area of the park is being zoned for community-based tourism, including trophy hunting, human settlement and development. Cat- tle movement is controlled to prevent the spread of diseases, and communities living in the park or neighboring areas are given conditional tourism rights to establish, either on their own or in joint ventures, tourism facilities within the park confines.

The park has three distinct areas: the perennial Okavango and Kwando rivers, their riparian vegetation and ﬂoodplains characterized by reed beds, ﬂoating grass mats and woodlands with jackal berry, mangosteen, apple leaf, knob thorn and wild-date palm; a parallel system of drainage lines (omuramba) that run west-north-west or east-south-west; and deep windblown Kalahari sands that form dunes between 65–197 feet high and support deciduous woodlands dominated by seringa, Zambezi teak, wild teak and several wild raisin and bushwillow species.

The park is sanctuary to 35 large – including elephant, buffalo, impala, reedbuck, red lechwe, sitatunga, hippo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, Chobe bushbuck, tsessebe, and sable and roan antelope – and numerous small- Nature Reserves game species. Predators such as lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog also Nature Reserves fall under what is now known as the Protected Areas occur in the park. Because there is no surface water, most species congre- Network, listed under National Parks, which are all state owned. gate along the Okavango and Kwando rivers and at the Malombe and Ndwasa pans in the north-east. The Okavango and Kwando rivers and

60 their associated floodplains are important habitats for wetland bird species, the camping sites at Mile 14, Jakkalsputz, Mile 72 and Mile 108. Beach such as wattled cranes and African skinners. driving is allowed elsewhere on existing well-used tracks. Quad- and other motorized bikes are prohibited on beaches between Walvis Bay Bwabwata, which takes its name from a village in the park and refers to and Swakopmund and on all beaches north of Henties Bay. No driving the sound of bubbling water, forms part of the 107 387-mile2 Kavango- is allowed in the Swakop River bed up to the Rössing Golf Club. Only Zambezi (KaZa) Transfrontier Conservation Area. limited concessionaires may operate there under tourism-specific MET permits. Quad- and other motorized bikes are strictly prohibited in the The reserve is home to over 400 bird species, conspicuous examples be- entire Swakop River. Bikes and vehicles may access the dunes only ing kingfishers, herons, cormorants, African skimmers, wattled cranes, through the access corridors at Langstrand, Dolfynpark and Dune 7. pygmy geese and African fish-eagles. Visitors are cautioned that there They must stay within the demarcated access corridors. No quad- or are crocodiles and hippos in the river. Since there are no overnight facili- two-wheel bikes are allowed north of the Omaruru River, up to the ties in Bwabwata, visitors usually overnight at one of several guest Ugab River. Driving in any conservation area is strictly prohibited. lodges or at the nearby Popa Falls Camp. The Namibian coastline is a haven for countless unique plants, animals Dorob National Park and birds, a special feature of international interest being the extensive The 124-mile stretch of coastline between the Swakop and occurrence of lichen fields. Over a hundred lichen species have been re- Ugab rivers is renowned for its excellent angling potential. corded in the Namib Desert. A symbiotic composition of an alga and a Over the years popular angling spots along the coast were identified fungus, lichens are dependent on coastal fog for survival. The continued by dedicated anglers and named to indicate their distance from existence of this intriguing form of desert life is a matter of serious con- Swakopmund. cern to environmentalists, as lichens are extremely slow growing and are destroyed when vehicles drive over them. To protect the most frequented central coast area against damage caused by off-road driving, the stretch between Sandwich Harbour and the There are campsites for anglers at Mile 14, Jakkalsputz, Mile 72 and Ugab River was proclaimed as a national park in 2008, elevating the Mile 108. Activities in the park include swimming, golf, skydiving, dune status of the West Coast Recreational Area (WCRA) to that of a national boarding, sand skiing, paragliding, surfing and windsurfing, yachting and park, and calling it Dorob National Park. New rules, regulations and law angling from the beach or a boat. enforcement measures are soon to be finalized, following the December 2010 gazetting of this new national park. Until such time, the current Etosha National Park off-road rules will apply to the dune belt area between Walvis Bay and Etosha owes its unique landscape to the Etosha Pan, a vast Swakopmund, for which drivers must have a permit (issued free of shallow depression of approximately 1 930 miles2 which charge) to drive in specially demarcated off-road areas. forms the heart of the park. Once part of a large inland lake fed by rivers from the north and east, it dried up 120 million years ago as conti- It is recognized that a balance needs to be found between conserving the nental drift changed the slope of the land and the course of the tributar- environment and providing citizens and tourists with an opportunity to ies. This white, chalky expanse colors the park, and with the waterholes, enjoy off-road recreational vehicle (ORV) activities. To this end, the least creates the characteristic atmosphere of the Etosha of today. sensitive areas have been demarcated exclusively for ORV activities. Be- tween Swakopmund and the Ugab River no driving is allowed on the A series of waterholes along the southern edge of the pan guarantee re- beaches at Henties Bay, Wlotzkasbaken, Swakopmund, Cape Cross and warding and often spectacular game viewing. In good rain years the pan

61 fills with water draining southwards from Angola via a delta-like system of which occur around the pan, to thorn-bush and woodland savannah shallow rivers and oshanas, drying out in the winter to become an austere throughout the park. Eighty per cent of all Etosha’s trees are mopane. expanse of white cracked mud, shimmering with mirages and upward- West of Okaukuejo is the well known Sprokieswoud, Phantom or Fairy spiraling dust devils. Seeing vast herds of game against this eerie back- Forest, the only location where the African moringa tree, Moringa ovalifo- drop, referred to in the local vernacular as the ‘great white place of dry lia, grows in a flat area. water’, makes the Etosha game-viewing experience unique. Etosha is open throughout the year and is accessible by tarred roads via Of the 114 mammals species found in the park, several are rare and en- the Andersson Gate on the C38 from Outjo, the Von Lindequist dangered, such as black rhino and cheetah, and the lesser-known black- Gate in the east from Tsumeb on the B1, the Galton Gate in the west faced impala, which is endemic to north-western Namibia and south- from Kowares on the C35 and the King Nehale Gate located on the An- western Angola. Etosha’s current population of black rhino represents doni plains just north of the Andoni waterhole, which provides access one of the largest growing populations of black rhino in the world. from the north-central Owambo regions on the B1 from Onyati. All gates Other large mammals in the park include elephant, giraffe, blue wilde- are open from sunrise to sunset and traffic in and out of the King Nehale beest, mountain and plains zebra, hyena and lion. Cheetah and leopard Gate is managed on the same basis as at the Andersson and Von Lin- complete the trio of ‘big cats’. Antelope species range from kudu, gems- dequist gates, although visitors need to plan ahead to reach their accom- bok and the large and stately eland, to the diminutive Damara dik-dik. modation establishments before sunset, if staying within the park. Smaller mammals include jackal, bat-eared fox, honey badger, warthog During the rainy season this is a good option for viewing Fischer’s Pan, a and the ubiquitous ground squirrel. birders’ delight especially for greater and lesser flamingos and even pelicans. About 340 bird species occur in Etosha, about one third being migratory, including the European bee-eater and several species of wader. Larger The park has five tourist resorts – Okaukuejo, favored for its floodlit wa- birds include ostrich, kori bustard and greater and lesser flamingo, tens terhole where ‘specials’ such as elephant, giraffe, black rhino and lion of thousands of which congregate on the pan to breed during a good can be viewed at night; Namutoni, characterized by the historic fort rainy season. Ten of Etosha’s 35 raptor species are migratory. Those around which it is centered; Halali, situated halfway between Okau- most commonly seen are lappet-faced, white-backed and hooded vul- kuejo and Namutoni; Onkoshi Camp, an exclusive, low-impact, envi- tures, while sightings of the Cape, Egyptian and palm-nut vultures have ronmentally friendly tented camp about 16 miles north-west of Namu- been recorded. There are eight species of owl, including the pearl- toni; and the newly opened Dolomite Camp situated in western spotted owlet and southern white-faced scops-owl, and four species of Etosha. nightjar. Khaudum National Park For the greater part of the year (the dry season) Etosha’s animals and One of the main attractions of the Kavango Region is the Khau- birds are dependent on about 30 springs and waterholes. These provide dum National Park, a densely wooded wilderness reserve that excellent game viewing and photographic opportunities. A good policy borders Botswana in the east and can be explored only in 4x4 ve- before setting out is to enquire from camp officials what the current hicles. game movements are. During the rainy season, especially, the bird life at the main pan and Fischer’s Pan is worth viewing. The Khaudum National Park is the only conservation area in Namibia that protects the northern Kalahari sandveld biome. The Khaudum Na- Etosha’s vegetation varies from dwarf shrub savannah and grasslands, ture Reserve was proclaimed in 1989. In February 2007, the 1 483-

62 mile2 reserve was given national park status. The densely wooded wil- cilities whatsoever, so visitors have to be completely self-sufficient in derness harbors several big game species and a multitude of birds. terms of water, food and fuel. Entry permits for the park are obtainable However, as a result of the dense vegetation, game viewing in the at the MET office in Katima Mulilo. Khaudum requires considerable patience. Large animals that occur throughout the park are elephant and giraffe, while predators are lion, Mangetti National Park leopard, spotted hyena, and side-striped and black-backed jackal. Afri- Previously managed as a game camp for breeding rare and can wild dogs also occur here. Game numbers vary considerably, as endangered species such as black and white rhino, the Man- Khaudum is unfenced, enabling the animals to follow their natural mi- getti conservation area was proclaimed as the Mangetti National Park gration routes. in 2008 to protect wildlife and vegetation and provide tangible socioeconomic benefits to local communities through careful tourism devel- Khaudum is the stronghold of Namibia’s roan antelope population. opment. Other animals seen here are kudu, steenbok, gemsbok and blue wildebeest, while tsessebe, hartebeest, eland and reedbuck occur in the central Situated some 62 miles south-west of Rundu in the Kavango Region, the areas. About 320 bird species have been recorded at Khaudum. Rare spe- 2 cies include coppery-tailed and Senegal coucals, Bradfield’s hornbills, park extends over about 162 mile and is managed jointly by the Uk- rufous-bellied tits, black-faced babblers and sharp-tailed starlings. wangali Traditional Authority and the MET. Animals seen here include eland, blue wildebeest, wild dog, leopard and hyaena. Additional game A minimum of two 4x4 vehicles per group is allowed to travel in the including common impala, gemsbok, kudu, giraffe and Burchell's zebra park. The two campsites, Sikereti and Khaudum, are no longer main- will be translocated through the Enhancing Wildlife-based Economy in tained, although camping is still available at each. It is advised to bring Rural Areas Project from the Etosha National Park and the private sec- your own water, wood, fuel and provisions. In the Kavango Region petrol tor. is sold only at Tsumkwe, Bagani, Divundu, Mukwe and Rundu. Mamili National Park Mudumu National Park 2 Centered on the Mudumu Mulapo fossil river course, this vast The 124-mile Mamili National Park, proclaimed in 1990, has 2 the distinction of being the largest wetland area with conser- 390-mile expanse of dense savannah and mopane woodlands vation status in Namibia. bordered in the west the Kwando River, was proclaimed a national park in 1990. Dense mopane woodlands are at the core of the The park is characterized by a complex network of channels, reed beds, ox- park, the combination of forest and water ensuring a wealth of wildlife. bow lakes and tree-covered islands, with the focal point on Nkasa and Mudumu is home to small populations of sitatunga and red lechwe, Lupala, two large islands in the Kwando/Linyanti River. During the dry sea- while spotted-necked otter, hippo and crocodile inhabit the waterways. son the islands can be reached by road, but after the rains 80% of the area During a game drive, animals likely to be encountered are elephant, buf- becomes flooded, cutting them off from the mainland. The same bird and falo, roan antelope, kudu, impala and Burchell’s zebra. animal species as in the Mudumu National Park (see below) occur in Ma- mili. The park is alive with more than 400 species of birds. Of particular interest are slaty egrets, Hartlaub’s babblers, greater swamp-warblers (in the pa- For campers who like to rough it, Mamili offers basic campsites at Nzalu pyrus swamps), chirping cisticolas, and swamp boubous. Other noteworthy and Lyadura in the east and south east of the reserve. These have no fa- species include black coucals (an intra-African migrant), coppery-tailed

63 and Senegal coucals, wattled cranes (flood plains) and rosy-throated long- to the public for close to a century, the habitat is largely untouched and claws. In the backwaters and swamps, African pygmy-geese and comb pristine, making a visit to the park a truly unique wilderness experience. duck (between September and April), Allen’s gallinules (between Decem- ber and April), and African and lesser jacanas are found. Namib-Skeleton Coast National Park Provisionally it has been called the Namib–Skeleton Coast National Park Sperrgebiet National Park (NSCNP), because both Namib and Skeleton Coast are already well The Sperrgebiet National Park was proclaimed in 2008. While known, not only in conservation and tourism circles but worldwide, and it is still largely undeveloped and much of it remains inacces- the brand is regarded as strong by existing and potential new investors. sible to visitors, a small section of this wild landscape can be explored The ofﬁcial name will be announced following further consultation and with a guided group, accompanied by an ofﬁcial of the MET. consideration.

The Sperrgebiet (meaning literally ‘forbidden territory’) covers 10 038 Soon to be proclaimed, the repackaged park will stretch along miles2 of globally important semi-desert and forms part of the Succulent the entire Namibian coastline, a distance of some 976 miles, Karoo biome that extends into South Africa. With its profusion of succulent from the Orange River in the south to the Kunene River in the species, unrivalled anywhere else on the planet in terms of endemism and north, comprising four main terrestrial Management Areas – the Sperr- number, conservation scientists have classified this area as one of the world’s gebiet National Park (name under review) in the south; the Namib- top 25 Biodiversity Hotspots. To qualify for hot-spot status, an area must Naukluft Park; the central area between the Ugab River and Sandwich contain at least 1 500 endemic vascular plants (0.5% of the planet’s total) Harbour for which Cabinet has adopted the name Dorob National Park; and must have lost at least 70% of its original habitat. Prior to the establish- and the Skeleton Coast Park in the north. At its narrowest point in the ment of the Sperrgebiet National Park, a mere 11% of the surviving Succu- Skeleton Coast, the park extends about 16 miles inland, while at its widest lent Karoo, which is home to 2 439 endemic plants, was in protected areas. in the Naukluft area it extends inland about 112 miles to the top of the Now, with the park’s proclamation, 90% is protected. escarpment.

Concessionaires with the MET take visitors from Lüderitz into the north- In addition, the Ministry of Fisheries and Marine Resources obtained ern extremity of the park where they can admire the colossal 55-metre Cabinet approval to proclaim Namibia’s first Marine Protected Area (see high Bogenfels rock arch, the modern diamond mine and the mysterious above), immediately adjacent to the Sperrgebiet and Namib-Naukluft ghost town at Elizabeth Bay, the ghost town of Pomona (noteworthy for Management Areas. enduring the highest average wind speeds in Southern Africa) and Mär- chental – the famous ‘Fairy Tale Valley’ – where diamonds were once so Namibia will be the only continental country in the world that has its en- common they could be picked up in handfuls as they gleamed in the light tire coastline protected as a national park. The new park will be the of the moon. eighth-largest protected area in the world, the sixth-largest terrestrial protected area globally and the largest park in Africa, covering an area of 41 Activities further south include kayaking the Orange River to observe the 521 miles2. birds and animals that frequent this internationally renowned Ramsar wetland site and viewing the wealth of succulents, some growing as tall Cape Cross Seal Reserve The Cape Cross Seal Reserve, with a surrounding area of as trees and many putting on a spectacular ﬂoral display after winter 2 rains. about 23 miles consisting of ﬂat gravel plains and the rock Because the Sperrgebiet, due to its diamond wealth, has been off limits outcrop where the seals gather, was proclaimed in 1968 to protect

64 the biggest and best known of the 23 colonies of Cape fur seals that white-breasted and reed cormorants, African darters, African spoonbills, breed along the coast of South Africa and Namibia. The reserve is situ- osprey and African ﬁsh-eagles. Other species likely to be seen are ostrich, ated approximately 80 miles north of Swakopmund and is open daily kori bustard, Namaqua sandgrouse, several species of chat, Stark’s lark, from 08:00–17:00 (16 November–30 June) and 10:00–17:00 (1 July–15 Sclater’s lark and Bradﬁeld’s swift. November).

It was here that the Portuguese navigator, Diego Cão, on his second expe- South West Nature Reserve dition to Africa south of the equator, planted a stone cross in 1486. Two Better known as the National Botanic Garden, the South West replicas of this cross can be viewed at the site where the original one was Nature Reserve is one of Windhoek’s gems. It offers several self- erected. A small lichen reserve containing a relatively large variety of spe- guided walking trails, while regular guided walks are conducted to in- cies can be viewed close by. Bird islands off the coast are also protected. form visitors about Namibia’s diverse plant life. Two hundred different varieties of indigenous plants have been identiﬁed in the garden, the The Cape fur seal, Arctocephalus pusillus pusillus, is the largest of the most common of which are labelled for visitors to identify. A visit to the world’s nine fur-seal species. As many as 210 000 of these animals Desert House, home to rare and protected species from the Namib De- gather at Cape Cross at any one time during the November/ December sert, will provide an insight into species that often occur in remote and breeding season. inaccessible parts of the desert. The garden is open on weekdays between 8:00 and 17:00. Hardap Game Reserve With a capacity of 85 million gallon and a surface area of 10 miles2, Hardap is Namibia’s largest dam, built in the 1960s. Daan Viljoen Game Park 2 Set in the rolling hills of the Khomas Hochland, the Daan Vil- The 98-mile game reserve and recreation resort were pro- joen Game Park served as a popular retreat for Windhoek resi- claimed in 1968. dents and tourists since the 1960s. It is currently being redeveloped by the Prosperity Group, which signed a 30-year lease agreement with While the Hardap Recreation Resort is visited primarily by overnight visi- state-owned company NWR to turn it into a modern tourism, confer- tors, aquatic sportspeople and freshwater angling enthusiasts, the game ence and health facility. Phase one of the Daan Viljoen Resort, the gen- reserve, divided by the dam into a northern and southern section, affords eral tourism facility, was expected to open in September 2011, while de- excellent game-viewing opportunities. The largest game concentrations velopment of phases two and three were earmarked to commence in are found in the southern section, which can be explored by several 2012 and 2013 respectively. routes. Game likely to be seen on this route are kudu, gemsbok, springbok, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, red hartebeest and steenbok. Also pre- As has been the case with Daan Viljoen in the past, the main tourism thrust sent but seldom encountered are leopard. In 1990 four black rhino were is the wildlife of the park, and visitors are encouraged to experience the flora translocated from the Kunene Region into the reserve. They settled in and fauna of Daan Viljoen on foot. the north and northwestern sections, and although rarely seen, their dis- 2 tinctive four-toed spoor and dung are proof that they are there. Although comparatively small (just under 15 mile ), the park gives sanctuary to a relatively large population of game species typical of Namibia’s Two hundred and six species of birds occur in the Hardap environs, of highlands. Animals likely to be seen at Daan Viljoen are kudu, spring- which 20% are water birds. The dam is home to one of Namibia’s three bok, gemsbok, eland, red hartebeest, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, blue largest colonies of white pelicans. There are also greater ﬂamingos, wildebeest, baboon, klipspringer, steenbok and rock dassie. Approxi-

65 mately 200 bird species have been recorded in the park. Interesting en- Seasoned hikers regard the 53-mile Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail as demic species to look out for are Rüppell’s parrot, Monteiro’s hornbill, one of Southern Africa’s major hiking challenges. It leads from the north- Carp’s tit, rockrunner and white-tailed shrike. ernmost viewpoint to /Ai-/Ais at the southern end and takes from four to five days to complete.

Fish River Canyon and /Ai-/Ais Resort Accommodation provided by the NWR in the park consists of the Hobas In 1989 the /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Resort, Fish River Canyon Campsite near the northern lookout point and the /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs and Huns Mountains west of the canyon were incorporated Resort in the southern section of the canyon. into a single conservation area. The attraction of this rugged wilderness is its isolated and otherworldly landscape and wealth of interesting xerophytic plants such as the halfmens or elephant’s trunk, Pachypodium na- Namib-Naukluft Park maquanum. Geologically and botanically the area is similar to South Af- Namibia’s most versatile conservation area and one of the rica’s Richtersveld south of the Orange River. The long-term conserva- country’s major tourist destinations is the Namib-Naukluft tion objective to manage the Huns Mountains and /Ai-/Ais Game Park Park. An amalgamation of the Namib Desert Park (proclaimed in jointly with the Richtersveld National Park as one integrated Transfron- 1907), the Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park (created in 1966), unoccupied tier Conservation Area (TFCA) was realised during 2003. public land and a section of Diamond Area 2, the Namib-Naukluft Park was proclaimed in 1979 as one integrated reserve. Following the addition Eroded over many millennia, the Fish River Canyon is the second-largest in 1990 of another portion of Diamond Area 2, it now has a surface area natural canyon in the world. Set in a harsh, stony plain, dotted with of 19 216 miles2. In 2007 the Namib-Naukluft Park celebrated its hun- drought-resistant succulents such as the distinctive quiver tree or koker- dredth year of existence. boom, Aloe dichotoma, and Euphorbia gregaria, the canyon is a spectacular natural phenomenon that took hundreds of millions of years to evolve. This vast wilderness contains key features such as Sossusvlei, Sesriem, the While its full length is 99 miles – the width is up to 17 miles and depth Welwitschia Trail, Sandwich Harbour, the Naukluft Mountains and the up to 1 804 feet – its most spectacular section is the 35-mile stretch be- Kuiseb Canyon. The park is managed as a wilderness area, and accord- tween the northernmost and southernmost viewpoints. ingly has no large resorts, only serviced camping sites at Sesriem and Naukluft and a number of rudimentary camping sites in the Namib sec- Because the river flows intermittently, there is always water in some of the tion. There are, however, a large number of private accommodation es- pools, except in very dry years. Containing small- and largemouth yellow- tablishments just outside the park, especially in the vicinity of Sesriem. fish, sharptooth catfish, tilapia and common carp, the pools are also frequented by the water monitor or leguan. In the Namib Baboon, rock hyrax, ground squirrel and klipspringer are often seen in This section is situated in the central and southern Namib. Os- the canyon, while the presence of leopard and mountain zebra is indi- trich, springbok and gemsbok are especially conspicuous on the desert cated by tracks left at waterholes. Kudu inhabit the densely vegetated plains, while Hartmann’s mountain zebra, klipspringer and baboon fre- lower reaches north of /Ai-/Ais. An interesting variety of birds, such as quent the canyons of the Swakop and Kuiseb rivers, and leopard and Af- the olive thrush, Cape robin-chat and African black duck, are found in rican wildcat the Kuiseb Canyon. Larger predators found here are spot- the canyon. ted and brown hyaena, and smaller predators include black-backed jackal and bat-eared fox.

66 miles south of Walvis Bay at the foot of towering ivory- An intriguing host of small creatures have adapted to survive in the Na- coloured dunes, is a spectacular and sought-after destination. mib dunes. The fog-basking beetle, Onymacris unguicularis, drinks water by The lagoon, referred to in old texts as Sandfisch Haven, is a former bay positioning itself on the crest of a dune, dropping its head and extending that became silted up over the years. Today Sandwich is visited especially its hind legs. Its back serves as a condensation surface for fog, which by anglers, ornithologists, photographers and nature lovers. forms droplets and slides downwards towards the mouth. An intriguing ‘thermal dance’ is performed by the shovel-snouted lizard, Meroles anchie- The Sandwich area has a strange mystique, enhanced by the legend that tae, to cope with the extreme heat radiating from dune surfaces. buried somewhere in the dunes above the high-water mark is a ship with a rich cargo of ivory, gold and precious stones. This treasure has been The Desert Research Foundation of Namibia (DRFN) on the banks of searched for by many fortune hunters, but to date has eluded all. The la- the Kuiseb River at Gobabeb has an international reputation for re- goon is fed by fresh water seeping from an inland aquifer, and is a sanctu- searching the Namib ecology. It plays an active role in environmental edu- ary for large numbers of coastal and freshwater birds. It is also an impor- cation, presented in the Gobabeb Training and Research Centre. On cer- tant breeding ground for a variety of fish species. tain weekends – the dates are announced in the local media – nature lovers are hosted at Gobabeb and introduced to the wonders of the Namib. Permits to visit Sandwich are obtainable from the MET office in Swakop- mund and at certain service tations in Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. During February 2009 the first lodge concession was awarded in the NNP, Please note that Sandwich is accessible by 4x4 vehicles only; that in cer- which will benefit both Gobabeb and the tourism sector. The concession tain areas angling and vehicles are prohibited; that angling is not allowed will showcase responsible low-impact tourism developed in line with dec- from 25 January to 15 April; and that overnight camping is not allowed ades of research in the area and promises to benefit the neighbouring here. Topnaar community in a number of ways. The concession sites are located between 62 and 75 miles southeast of Walvis Bay. Two sites for per- Welwitschia Trail manent occupation are located along the Kuiseb River, and two tempo- A popular feature of the Namib-Naukluft Park is the Wel- rary camps lie deep in the plains, allowing an ultimate desert experience witschia Trail, east of Swakopmund. The route is marked with of unfettered space. stone beacons designating various attractions and offers a close look at the Welwitschia mirabilis, a botanical curiosity endemic to the Namib De- There are several state-run camping sites in this section of the park sert. A large concentration of these plants is found along the Wel- where fireplaces and toilets are provided. However, visitors need to be witschia Trail, marking their most southern distribution. From here wel- self-sufficient in respect of water, firewood, fuel and food supplies. The witschias occur in stands sporadically northwards into southwestern An- campsites are at Kuiseb Bridge (along the C14), Homeb (Kuiseb River), gola. A magnificent specimen, known as the Great Welwitschia and esti- Swakop River (en route to the Welwitschia Plains), Mirabib (between mated to be about 1 500 years old, can be seen along the Welwitschia Gobabeb and the C14), Bloedkoppie (spectacular surroundings), Groot Trail. Tinkas (four-wheel drive only), Ganab (wide-open spaces), Vogelfeder- berg and Kriess-se-Rus. A scenic desert drive along a proclaimed road through the Namib- Naukluft Park stops at a lookout point over the valley known as the Moon Landscape. Soft overlaying levels of earth, deposited some 450 mil- Sandwich Harbour lion years ago, were eroded over millennia to create this eerie landscape. The reed-fringed lagoon at Sandwich Harbour, situated 30 An unexpected cluster of eucalyptus and palm trees on the banks of the

67 Swakop River at the farm Goanikontes surrounds a historic farmhouse In Nauklft dating back to the mid-1850s. In earlier times the farm had a thriving The Naukluft section of the park was created to serve as a vegetable garden that supplied fresh produce to Swakopmund. Goanikon- sanctuary for Hartmann’s mountain zebra, which were compet- tes is now a popular picnic site. ing with livestock for grazing on farms. With its massive and varied rock formations, Naukluft is a geologist’s paradise. The intermittent layers of Sossusvlei horizontally folded igneous rock, quartzite, dolomite and shale are im- Many visitors to Namibia say that no part of the desert is visu- pressive with their giant symmetrical patterns. Five different vegetation ally more dramatic than Sossusvlei with its monumentally communities within the park ensure a wealth of tree and shrub species, high dunes. These gigantic star-shaped mountains of sand – one of the and a variety of aloes. largest was measured from the base to be 1 066 miles high – are a sought-after topic for artists and photographers. The warm tints of the Animals found at Naukluft in addition to Hartmann’s mountain zebra sand contrast vividly with the dazzling white surfaces of the large defla- are kudu, gemsbok, klipspringer, duiker, steenbok, leopard, baboon, tionary clay pans at their bases. One of these, referred to as Dead Pan, is black-backed jackal, bat-eared fox, African wild cat, caracal and aard- a large ghostly expanse of dried white clay, punctuated by skeletons of wolf. Naukluft’s steep cliffs are nesting grounds for various cliff-breeding ancient camel-thorn trees, carbon-dated as being between 500 and 600 bird species, including Verreaux’s eagles. years old. Day visitors are not allowed into Naukluft. For overnight visitors, even Sossusvlei’s mountainous dunes lie at the end of an erosional trough short walks in the vicinity of the campsite are rewarding, as there are formed by the Tsauchab River. They are shaped by strong multi- mountain pools close by. directional winds, primarily the southwester, and have three to five sinu- ous crests, which meet at the highest point to give them their star shape. Popa Game Park Rushing rapids, melodious birdcalls and shady, riverine trees Visitors are allowed access to Sossusvlei only between sunrise and sun- are sounds that typify Popa Game Park. Located on the Oka- set. The first 37 miles of the road from Sesriem to Sossusvlei has a per- vango River opposite the Bwabwata National Park, Popa Falls is famous manent surface and is suitable for sedan cars, whereas the last 3-mile for its setting near rapids that cascade down and across the river. stretch of sandy track is negotiable by 4x4 vehicles only. A shuttle service is available for people who do not want to hike the last 3 miles. Over 400 species of birds have been recorded here, and tigerfish, threespot and greenheaded tilapia are just some of the game fish that occur in the Okavango River, making it a popular destination for an- Sesriem Canyon glers. River cabins, fishing permits, camping, a restaurant and bar are The permit office complex for entry to Sossusvlei and other destinations available at Popa Falls Camp. in this part of the park is at Sesriem. Four kilometres south from here is Sesriem Canyon, where the erosion of many centuries has in- Skeleton Coast Park cised a narrow gorge about 1 km in length. At the foot of the The Skeleton Coast Park, proclaimed in its present form in 1971, ex- gorge, which plunges down 98–131 feet, are pools that become replen- tends from the Ugab River in the south for 311 miles to the Kunene ished after good rains. Sesriem derives its name from the time when early River in the north, covering an area of 6 503 miles2. It protects about pioneers tied six lengths of rawhide thongs together to draw water from one third of Namibia’s coastline. these pools.

68 The landscape in the park ranges from sweeping vistas of windswept and barbel also occur here. dunes to rugged canyons with walls of richly coloured volcanic rock and extensive mountain ranges. Over a hundred species of lichen grow on Visitors can explore the surrounding nature reserve on foot. While game- the plains and west-facing mountain slopes, changing colour and becom- viewing opportunities are limited, kudu, baboon, Hartmann’s mountain ing soft and leathery to the touch when the coastal fog generated by the zebra, gemsbok and red hartebeest are seen here. Facilities at the dam, cold Benguela Current pushes inland. which are owned and managed by Tungeni Investments, include picnic sites for day visitors, bungalows and camping facilities on the southeastern Animals occurring on the plains are gemsbok, springbok, jackal, ostrich banks of the dam. Freshwater angling licences are obtainable at the gate and brown hyaena, while desert-adapted elephant and even black rhino, lion and giraffe roam up and down the dry river courses. Of special interest are the clay castles of the Hoarusib, the saltpans near the Agate Waterberg Plateau Park Mountain and the seal colony at Cape Frio. Rising some 656 feet above the surrounding African bush and savannah, the Waterberg Plateau with its flamboyant brick- red sandstone formations and lush green vegetation presents Accommodation in the park is provided in a rest camp at Terrace Bay, 2 previously a diamond-mining settlement, and at the Torra Bay camping an island of vibrant colour. The 157-mile park, situated 37 miles site, open only from 1 December to 31 January. east of Otjiwarongo and 186 miles northeast of Windhoek, was proclaimed in 1972. It was originally created as a sanctuary for rare and en- The northern section of the Skeleton Coast Park is a tourism concession dangered species, such as roan and sable antelope, tsessebe and Cape buf- area and restricted to fly-in safaris only. The southern section – between falo. the Ugab and Hoanib rivers – is accessible to the general public staying at Terrace Bay and Torra Bay. However, because of the ecological sensi- Today the park is home to some 25 game and over 200 bird species. The tivity of the surroundings, it is managed by the MET as a wilderness vegetation changes dramatically from acacia savannah at the foot of the area. plateau to lush, green sub-tropical dry woodland with tall trees and grassy plains at the top. Ten fern species have been recorded at the Water- A day permit to drive directly through the southern region of the park is berg, of which one is endemic to Namibia and Angola. There is also an obtainable from the MET Tourist Office in Swakopmund, as well as at impressive range of flowering plants, including the conspicuous flame the Ugab and Springbokwasser gates. lily, Gloriosa superba. Dinosaur tracks imbedded in sandstone can be seen on top of the plateau.

Von Bach Game Park Accommodation in the park consists of refurbished luxury chalets and a Accessible from the B1 from Windhoek to the north, sign- well-equipped camping area in the Waterberg Camp at the foot of the posted about 2 miles south of Okahandja, the Von Bach Dam plateau. The restaurant, kiosk and museum are housed in the restored and Game Park extends over an area of 17 miles2. Rasthaus, originally built in 1908 and used as a police post for several years. The facility, proclaimed in 1972, has become a popular venue for aquatic Below the resort, on the site of the historic Battle of Waterberg, a graveyard sports such as water-skiing, yachting, windsurﬁng and boating. The dam serves as a reminder of this turbulent period in history. Schutztruppe (Ger- is popular among freshwater angling enthusiasts, as it has been stocked man soldiers) who died in the battle fought between the Herero and German with large-mouth bass, blue kurper and small-mouth yellow-ﬁsh. Carp colonial forces in 1904 are buried here.

69 of the northern Namib coastal desert. In addition to being sceni- At the eastern extremity of the park is the Okatjikona Environmental cally beautiful, with landscapes ranging from vast gravel plains and dry Education Centre, a facility that provides the opportunity for visiting river courses to dune seas and deep canyons, the park is home to the Wel- groups, mainly schoolchildren, to learn about the importance of environ- witschia mirabilis. The park also harbours populations of desert-adapted ele- mental conservation. The superb natural beauty of Waterberg can be ex- phant, black rhino, springbok and gemsbok, and in recent years, coastal plored either by vehicle on a guided game-viewing tour, on foot by lions. means of guided wilderness trails or on a four-day self-guided wilderness trail and easy walking trails. The Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area: Namibia has designated the Bwabwata National Park, Mudumu Na- Transfrontier Parks tional Park, Mamili National Park, Khaudum National Park, Mangetti The Namibian Government is firmly committed to the transfrontier proc- National Park, Caprivi State Forest and Conservancies, including the ess and has achieved several agreements with cross-border countries. Nyae Nyae and N#a-Jaqua, and community forests between and around these protected areas for inclusion in the Kavango-Zambezi Transfron- The /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park: tier Conservation Area (KaZa). These national parks are linked with With South Africa as co-signee, Namibia established its first TFP, each other, their complex network of rivers and relatively high summer the /Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, in 2003. To im- rainfall maintaining a fertile wilderness of riverine forests, flood plains, prove traffic in the park, the Sendelingsdrift border post on the south- swamps and open woodland to form a coherent conservation core area ern border of Namibia was opened. About 70% of the park’s 2 334 2 rich in game species including roan and sable antelope, tsessebe, buffalo miles is situated in Namibia, comprising the /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs and vast herds of elephant, as well as aquatic antelope species such as Game Park and the Hunsberg conservation area in the west. The Huns lechwe, sitatunga, puku, waterbuck and reedbuck, and over 420 bird spe- Mountains, Fish River Canyon and /Ai/Ais Hot Springs are focal cies. The MET has set up a project to improve park management and points situated in the /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Game Park, while the 53 upgrade the infrastructure to cope with an increased tourism influx. mile-long Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail ranks among the top hiking Spanning over 1 71 429 miles2 (similar in size to Sweden), KaZa is the trails in Southern Africa. Despite being proclaimed in 1988, the rugged world's biggest conservation area, comprising multiple resource use areas Huns Mountains area has remained largely unknown. The park cur- including National Parks, Game Reserves, Forest Reserves, Conservan- rently offers hiking, four-by-four trails and canoeing excursions down cies, Game/Wildlife Management Areas and communal lands in Angola, the Orange River. Cradled by the 62 mile-long loop made by the Or- Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. ange River downstream of Noordoewer, the remainder of the transfrontier park is made up of the Richtersveld National Park in South Conservation Areas Africa, an area of 62 720 miles2 that provides protection to South Af- Conservation areas in Namibia include the transfrontier conservation rica’s only mountain desert. The Richtersveld is a solitary and deso- areas and national parks. Please see respective sections for more details. late world of wild mountainous terrain interspersed by plains and Conservancies deep river valleys. A conservancy is a legally protected area belonging to a group of bona The Iona Skeleton Coast Transfrontier Conservation Area: fide land occupiers who have pooled their resources to practice co- A Memorandum of Understanding between Namibia and An- operative management based on a sustainable utilization strategy to pro- gola was signed in 2003 to establish the Iona Skeleton Coast mote the conservation of natural resources including wildlife, where con- Transfrontier Conservation Area, encompassing 12 177 miles2 servation means the management of human utilization of organisms or ecosystems to ensure that such utilization is of a sustainable nature. Con-

70 servation also includes the protection, maintenance, rehabilitation, resto- the Omusati Region; ration and enhancement of the populations of ecosystems. The ultimate • the Joseph Mbambangandu, George Mukoya, Muduva Nyangana objective is to reinstate the original biodiversity of the area and to share and Shamungwa conservancies in the Kavango Region; resources amongst all members of the conservancy. • the King Nehale Conservancy in the Oshikoto Region; • the Eiseb, Otjombinde and Omuramba Ua Mbinda conservancies in The first conservancies in Namibia were commercial conservancies, now the Omaheke Region; and called freehold conservancies, as they are on privately owned land. The • the Okongo Conservancy in the Ohangwena Region. oldest conservancy on commercial farmland in Namibia is the Ngaran- www.nacso.org.na gombe Conservancy, established in 1991. Today there are 23 freehold conservancies in Namibia, all voluntary associations that came into being through the concern and dedication of communities in the commer- Private Game Reserves cial farming areas. At present there are almost 200 private game reserves registered in Namibia. A fast-expanding field of environmental management is communal con- Private landholders in Namibia play a significant role in the conserva- servancies, which are managed by local inhabitants, provide employ- tion of wildlife. This has resulted in several outstanding conservation ment and give locals the opportunity to benefit directly from their wild- initiatives on privately owned land. The largest of these is the Nami- life and other natural resources. There are currently a total of 65 regis- bRand Nature Reserve, a vast area of about 444 790 acres situated tered communal conservancies in Namibia, adding another 19% to Na- south of Sesriem, is a scenically beautiful conservation area created by mibia’s protected area network. Windhoek businessman, Albi Brückner. The following communal conservancies are registered: In southern Namibia the Gondwana Collection consists of four private • the Salambala, Mashi, Wuparo, Kwandu, Mayuni, Kasika, Balyerwa, nature reserves (about 486 798 acres combined) – the Gondwana Kala- Sobbe, Impalila, Sikunga, Dzoti and Bamunu conservancies in the hari Park, Gondwana Cañon Park, Gondwana Sperrgebiet Rand Park Caprivi Region; and Gondwana Namib Park — which offer hiking tours, nature drives • the Nyae Nyae, N#a-Jaqua, African Wild Dog, Ondjou, Okamati- and accommodation facilities. pati, Otjituuo, Ozonahi and Ovitoto conservancies in the Otjozond- jupa Region; Also in the south is the Sandfontein Nature Game Reserve, which • the Marienfluss, Puros, Ehirovipuka, Sorri-Sorris, Omatendeka, stretches over 187 800 acres. Bigger than Singapore, Sandfontein is //Huab, Orupembe, Sanitatas, Anabeb, Sesfontein, Okangundumba, home to numerous species of game exceeding 4,000 in number (includ- Ozondundu, //Khoadi-//Hôas, Torra, Doro !Nawas, //Audi, Kunene ing the endangered black rhino) and includes 16 miles of Orange River River, Uibasen Twyfelfontein, Okonjombo, Otjambangu, Otjitanda, frontage, the border between Namibia and South Africa. Orupupa and !Khoro !Ghoreb conservancies in the Kunene Region; • the Tsiseb, Otjimboyo, Ohungu and #Gaingu conservancies in the The Erindi Private Game Reserve (195 213 acres) in central Namibia is Erongo Region; home to over 20 000 animals. Conservation is an important aspect of • the Oskop and Huibes conservancies in the Hardap Region; business and includes the preservation, maintenance, sustainable utiliza- • the //Gamaseb, !Gawachab, !Khob !Naub and !Han/Awab in the tion, restoration and enhancement of the natural environment. Karas Region; • the Uukwaluudhi, Uukolonkadhi-Ruacana and Sheya Shuushona in

71 Situated in the upper reaches of the Huab River, the Huab Private Na- The Orange River Mouth is a transborder site with South Africa and ture Reserve (19 917 acres) provides a sanctuary for the desert-dwelling comprises 1 235 acres. The sole perennial river in the region, it forms a elephants of the area. Fischer’s Pan Private Game Reserve (17,297 linear oasis (floodplain) of islands and sand bars through an arid region. acres) lies next to the Etosha National Park in the east, as does the The site provides habitat for a variety of endemic plants and during the 88,958-acre Onguma Private Game Reserve adjoining Fischer’s Pan, summer is the sixth richest wetland in southern Africa, in terms of bird both harbouring many of the mammals and birds found in Etosha. numbers supported. The abundance of three species exceeds 1% of their respective global populations. Restricted recreation takes place Ramsar Sites within the park. In surrounding areas, activities include diamond min- The total area of the Walvis Bay Wetlands is approximately 31,135 ing, irrigation, and large-scale water abstraction. acres; this excludes the deep waters of the bay and the Pelican Point pen- insula. The Walvis Bay wetlands - the lagoon, mudflats, shoreline and salt works - constitute the single most important coastal wetland in south- Etosha Pan, Lake Oponono and the Cuvelai drainage is a system of ern Africa for palaearctic (migratory) birds and amongst the top 3 for pa- ephemeral rivers, feeding pans and associated lake and delta. Habitats laearctic (migratory) birds on the continent of Africa. include the pans, seasonally flooded grasslands, palm tree savannah, woodlands, and dry bush savannah. The system supports 45% of Na- mibia's human population, who exist by subsistence farming and fishing The open desert landscape and the presence of predators, mainly Black- on the floodplains and seasonal wetlands. Local people rely upon sea- backed Jackals (Canis mesomelas) and Kelp Gulls (Larus dominicanus), com- sonal ponds and shallow wells for their water. The site supports popula- bine to limit opportunities for ground-nesting birds to breed at Walvis tions of several rare and endangered large mammals, and in good rainy Bay. The wetland therefore serves mainly as a dry-season and drought seasons it serves as a breeding ground for flamingos. It is 1 482 632 acres refuge for intra-African migrants and as a non-breeding area for Pa- in size. laearctic migrants. Key species of African birds are Greater and Lesser Flamingos, Chestnut-banded Plover, Black-necked Grebe and the Afri- can Black Oystercatcher. Human activities consist of recreation and salt production. Residential development exists along the lagoon, and natural siltation may eventually lead to the infilling.

Sandwich Harbour comprises 40,772 acres with two distinct wetlands and associated mudflats. One is aquifer-fed and supports typical emer- gent vegetation, but is slowly disappearing due to natural causes. The second, under tidal influence, consists of mudflats and raised shingle bars. One of Namibia's most important coastal wetlands, supporting eight endangered species among the large numbers of wading birds. Sev- eral archaeological sites dating back 1,000 years exist within the site. Hu- man activities have included fishing, guano collection, and hunting. The site is used for scientific research, with surrounding areas used for tourism, recreation, and angling.

72 CONSERVATION INITIATIVES

Learn about the many conservation efforts and initiatives currently going on in Namibia. Conservation initiatives Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation (IRDNC) AfriCat The AfriCat Foundation is an organization committed to the conserva- The Integrated Rural Development Nature Conservation’s (IRDNC) tion of Namibia’s large carnivores. By working with commercial farm- work focuses on supporting conservancies and newly registered associa- ers, local communities, stakeholders, communal conservancies and the tions that focus on natural resource management, event books and youth of Namibia, AfriCat supports environmental education, rehabilita- human-wildlife conflict. (note, wondering what an “event book” is? Click tion and welfare programs, provides solutions to human-wildlife conflict here to read an article that explains). issues and conducts constructive wildlife research. The IRDNC’s mission is to improve the lives of rural people by diversify- The organization operates from two locations – one on Okonjima farm ing the socio-economy in Namibia's communal areas to include wildlife in central Namibia, near the town of Otjiwarongo and the second, and other valuable natural resources. The organization aims to build up known as AfriCat North, from Kaross farm, bordering Etosha National the capacity of rural Namibians, and to assist them to develop a civil so- Park. ciety whose members can sustainably manage and benefit from their lo- Learn more here: www.africat.org cal natural resources. Learn more here: www.irdnc.org.na Afri-Leo/AfriCat North Since its creation in 1997, Afri-Leo has worked closely with the AfriCat Harnas Foundation. Due to the ever-increasing demands of carnivore conserva- The vision of Harnas is to be a sustainable nature reserve. They sup- tion, the two groups merged under the AfriCat banner in March 2011. port releaseing specific species, function as a temporary reception center Afri-Leo’s programs and projects continue and expand under the name and recovery station for animals that will be released back into the wild. AfriCat North. The three focus areas for AfriCat North are defined as Harnas has a close cooperation with the Ministry of Environment and follows: environmental education and awareness; human-wildlife conflict Tourism. Harnas seeks to resolve human abuse through knowledge, expe- mitigation and community support; and welfare. rience, and education. On a national level, they invite economic invest- Learn more here: www.africat.org ment through tourism. This, in turn, creates jobs and new skills for locals who inform guests and volunteers from around the globe about con- Cheetah Conservation Fund servation awareness, research and the rescue center. Learn more here: www.harnas.org The Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) is deeply involved in cheetah conservation, livestock guarding, school education and conservation biol- Ministry of Environment and Tourism ogy programs. Founded in 1990, the CCF's mission is to be the interna- The mission of the Ministry of Environment and Tourism is to main- tionally recognized centre of excellence in the conservation of cheetahs tain and rehabilitate essential ecological processes and life-support sys- and their ecosystems. CCF works with all stakeholders to develop best tems, to conserve biological diversity and to ensure that the utilization of practices in research, education, and land use to benefit all species, in- natural resources is sustainable for the benefit of all Namibians, both pre- cluding people. sent and future, as well as the international community, as provided for CCF's International Research and Education Centre is based near Otji- in the Constitution. warongo. Learn more here: www.cheetah.org The conservation work that MET is involved in includes environmental management, policy development and implementation. It is also en-

74 gaged in management of protected areas and rare and endangered spe- Desert Lion Project; Large Carnivore Atlas; Large Carnivore Reintro- cies, integrated land management, and environmental education, among ductions; Leopard Home Range Study; and Leopard Collaring. other areas. www.predatorconservation.com Learn more here: www.met.gov.na Save the Rhino Trust N/a’an kuse The Save the Rhino Trust was formed in 1982 with the aim of ensuring N/a’an kuse’s philosophy is "Conservation through Innovation" and protection of the remaining population of black rhinos while giving ele- they strive to create sustainable and long-term solutions to protect and phant and other wildlife the chance to recover to sustainable numbers. conserve Namibia’s vulnerable wildlife and to improve the lives of the marginalized San community. Their vision is to play a pro-active role in The organization is led by Rudi Loutit who is supported by a committed nature conservation. Their work includes incorporating indigenous San staff of local Namibians. They have first hand experience, having spent skills to identify problem animals, developing innovative techniques and the better part of their lives living with black rhinos in the Kunene. collar release and monitoring. They run several projects including a Life- These dedicated people constantly monitor the rhinos on foot, with cam- line Clinic, school, wildlife sanctuary and a Carnivore Conservation Re- els, by air and by vehicle in order to protect these rare and critically en- search Project. dangered animals. SRT has an administrative office in Swakopmund, and field bases at Palmwag, Mbakondja and the Ugab River at Brand- Learn more here: www.naankuse.com berg West. Namib Desert Environmental Education Trust (NaDeet) www.savetherhinotrust.org

NaDeet is involved in primary, secondary and community programs on sustainable livelihoods, covering energy, water, waste and biodiversity management. NaDeet advocates for the use of solar energy, water count- ing and saving and producing fuel from recycled waste. NaDeet believes environmental education must not only increase awareness and knowledge but also eco-friendly attitudes and skills in Namibia's youth and educators to promote participation. NaDeet was established in 2003. It is located 100 km south of Sesriem/ Soussusvlei on the NamibRand Nature Reserve. www.nadeet.org Predator Conservation Trust The Predator Conservation Trust is a UK charity organization that supports projects in Namibia and other Southern African countries. The Trust believes that sound ecological data such as reliable population esti- mates, distribution and population demography are crucial in the implementation of conservation strategies. Projects supported in Namibia include: the Caprivi Carnivore Project; Brown Hyena Research Project;

75 PRACTICAL TIPS

While visiting Namibia there are many useful services available to fit your needs. If you need to rent a car, find a conference center, shop or grab a shuttle you can find out where to go and who to contact here. Practical Tips via aircraft, goods must be presented to a Customs Official before Below you’ll find a series of useful information: check-in for departure. 3. Present your claim at the VAT Refund Office at Hosea Kutako Inter- Time Zone national Airport. The claim will be processed and a VAT refund re- Namibia observes Daylight Saving Time (GMT/UTC + 2h) from the first ceipt issued. A VAT refund cheque, issued in South African Rand will Sunday in September to the first Sunday in April, after which clocks are be issued, which is payable anywhere in the world. turned one hour forward to Namibia Standard Time. From April until Sep- tember Namibia observes GMT/UTC + 1h, Standard Time. Visitors departing from any other designated departure point, must com- Currency plete a VAT 16 or VAT 17 claim form and present the claim form together Is the Namibia dollar (N$), which is fixed to and equals the South African with the tax invoices and the goods to a Customs Official. The claim will be rand (ZAR). The Namibia dollar and South African rand are the only legal processed by the VRA in Windhoek and payment made in preferred man- tender in Namibia. The Namibian Dollar is not accepted as legal tender in ner once the claim has been approved by the Commissioner of Inland Reve- any other country. nue. US$ can be exchanged at most Namibian banks. Withdrawing Money/ATM Machines Taxes Money can be withdrawn with credit and debit cards at most ATM ma- It is possible for foreign tourists to reclaim the VAT on a min. value of chines, located in all big towns throughout the country. Keep in mind that N$250 of goods bought in Namibia. Click here to read details on this. no ATM facilities are available in small towns and villages. Money can also be withdrawn with a credit card, over the counter at most In order to claim a VAT refund on goods (minimum value of banks. N$250.00), foreign tourists or non-residents are required to follow Using North American credit cards in Namibia the following procedures as set out by the Commissioner of Inland Credit cards are useful in major cities and luxury accommodation facilities Revenue: but may not be accepted in smaller establishments and shops in small 1. Request a tax invoice for the goods purchased. A tax invoice must towns, and never at street markets or rural craft centers. International Visa contain the following: and MasterCard are generally accepted and Diners Club, American Express a. The words “tax invoice” in a prominent place mostly in large shops and big establishments. Keep the exchange rate in b. The name, address and VAT registration number of the registered mind and also the fact that additional fees will be charged for using the fa- person making the supply cilities. c. The name and address of the recipient of the supply d. The individual serial number and date on which the tax invoice Tipping was issued Tipping for exceptional service is normal, but not required by law. e. A description of the goods supplied It is recommended to tip about 10% of the bill when eating out, but when f. The quantity or volume of goods supplied meals are included in the travel package, it is not necessary to tip. g. The total amount of VAT charged Guides should be tipped a minimum of N$20 per day for their services, 2. Goods and relevant tax invoices must be presented to a Customs Offi- while drivers should be tipped separately, about N$10 per day. cial and the VAT Refund Administrator (VRA) for inspection. Inspec- Car guards should be tipped with between N$2 and N$5. tion must be evidenced by an endorsement on the tax invoice by a Customs Official and employee of the VRA. If leaving the country

77 Please keep in mind that public service officials should never be tipped, as ties that might bring them in direct contact with animals that might this could be perceived as bribery and can get your client and the official in carry rabies. serious trouble. • Namibia is not a country with a risk of yellow fever. A yellow fever vaccination is only needed when traveling through a country with a Internet access risk of yellow fever virus transmission. The majority of accommodation facilities have internet access available to (Information obtained from Centers for Disease Control and Prevention) their guests, while some restaurants and coffee shops have wifi. Internet ca- fes are also found in all major towns. Wheelchair Accessibility Wheelchairs are barely ever accommodated on public transport, but tour Using a North American phone in Namibia operators do cater for disabled travelers. Many accommodation facilities North Americans can use their phones in Namibia if it is set to roaming. have specially adapted rooms and ramps for wheelchairs. Be sure to men- Alternatively, American phones can be used with a Namibian SIM card, if tion any special needs when booking a tour. the phone is not locked. This information can be obtained from the respective network providers and mobile phone distributors in the country of resi- Health care facilities dence. Namibia currently has one doctor per 3 000 people, one of the best doctor/ patient ratios in Africa. All major centres have state-run hospitals. In Wind- Getting a phone in Namibia hoek there are four privately run hospitals and two state hospitals, all with Mobile phones and sim cards are easily obtainable in most major stores in fully equipped and maintained intensive-care units. Qualifications of medi- the bigger towns. cal practitioners measure up to international standards. All specialist fields However, international pressure because of terrorism and criminality may are available in Windhoek, where 90% of emergency cases can be treated. result in stricter requirements for “pay as you go” mobile connectivity.

Vaccinations Hospitals: Be sure that your routine vaccinations are up to date before embarking on There are state hospitals in virtually all Namibia’s major towns. In smaller any trip. No vaccinations are necessary when traveling to Namibia, but the towns, villages and rural settlements, the MHSS operates well-equipped following are recommended: clinics or health-care centers with professionally trained medical staff. • Hepatitis A (Namibia falls in an area with high levels of Hepatitis A infections.) Windhoek has four private hospitals: Medi-Clinic in the Eros suburb, the • Hepatitis B Roman Catholic Hospital in the centre of town, the Rhino Park Pri- • Typhoid vaccinations (especially when planning to visit rural areas or vate Hospital, accessible from the northern highway, and the Para- villages where exposure might occur through food or water) mount Health Care Centre, also in Eros. • Polio vaccinations are recommended for adult travelers who have re- ceived a primary series with either inactivated poliovirus vaccine Major private hospitals outside Windhoek include the Cottage Medi-Clinic (IPV) or oral polio vaccine (OPV). They should receive another dose in Swakopmund, the Medi-Clinic Private Hospital in Otjiwarongo, the of IPV before departure. Tsumeb Private Hospital in Tsumeb, the Welwitschia Hospital in Walvis • A rabies vaccination for those planning to spend a lot of time in the Bay, and the Ongwediva Medipark in Ongwediva. outdoors, especially in rural areas, and for travelers involved in activi-

78 Rescue facilities International SOS Namibia provides an infrastructure to assist in all forms Encourage anyone travelling north of Windhoek to take adequate precau- of medical emergencies, including emergency evacuation services that ex- tions, whether camping under the stars or sleeping under a roof. tend to the furthest corners of Namibia. It is the leading 24-hour alarm centre and Emergency Medical Service provider in the country, and is sup- To reduce the risk of mosquito bites, we recommend the following pre- ported by a well-developed charter industry, countless landing strips and a cautions: well-maintained road network. The most important feature of Namibia’s • Sleep under a mosquito net at night, especially between 20:00 and ISOS is the fact that with two fully equipped ambulance aircraft based in 06:00 hours. Nets treated with insecticides that are harmless to hu- Windhoek, it is possible to reach even the remotest parts of the country in a mans will further increase protection. very short period of time. As a backup to the Namibian operation, ISOS • If possible, avoid going outside between dusk and dawn. South Africa offers a 24-hour Alarm Centre with dedicated doctors, as well • Wear long sleeves and long trousers. Avoid wearing dark colours, as the only two air ambulances staffed with doctors in Africa. which attract mosquitoes. • Burn coils and pellets containing the insect repellent pyrethrum. E- MED Rescue 24, another medical emergency evacuation and ambu- • Apply mosquito repellents to exposed skin and clothing. Repellents lance facility, was launched in the capital in 2004. The company is a black containing diethyl toluamide (deet) or dimethyl phthalate are the economic empowerment (BEE) company formed by an evacuation service best. alliance between Netcare 911 from South Africa, Namhealth and the Pros- • Using insecticide sprays is effective to prevent entry of mosquitoes perity Group. The company has established a 24-hour, 7-day operation call into rooms if doors and windows are not screened. centre, an ambulance and paramedical services infrastructure and a ﬂight • It’s better still to sleep in rooms of which the windows and doors are evacuation service, and has partnered with other evacuation services in the screened with mosquito netting. If not, keep the windows and doors region and with World Wide Travel Evacuation to provide services to cli- closed. ents and members anywhere in Africa and the world. Westair Wings Char- ters is the operator of the E-MED Rescue 24 aircraft, strengthening emer- Prophylactics are drugs that prevent malaria. These should be used in addi- gency air evacuations not only within Namibia, but also to other countries tion to the personal protection measures mentioned above. Prophylactics such as South Africa. Since weather conditions are suitable for safe ﬂying should be taken at least 24 to 48 hours before visiting the malaria-prone ar- most of the time, air evacuation is a highly reliable service. eas, and treatment should be continued for five to seven days after leaving the area, or as prescribed.

Water People with drug allergies, chronic illnesses or taking other drugs or vaccines Tap water is generally safe for consumption, but bottled water is available are advised to consult their doctor before starting prophylactics. Should any in all grocery stores. of the symptoms of malaria, such as fever, rigours (shaking), headaches, Malaria backache, diarrhoea and/or vomiting and malaise be experienced, it is ex- During the rainy season (January through May), malaria is prevalent tremely important to report to the nearest health facility as soon as possible mainly in the north of the country. Malaria is transmitted to people by the for proper diagnosis (a blood test) and prompt treatment. bite of a mosquito, usually after dark. Tourists can help reduce the risk of malaria by using personal protection measures and prophylactics. Malaria If any ﬂu-like symptoms are experienced on the way home, seek immediate can be a serious and fatal disease if not treated properly medical attention and inform your doctor that you have recently visited a malaria-prone area.

79 Herero/Ovahimba: Perivi? Are you well? Language Nawa Yes, well While English is the ofﬁcial language in Namibia, many other languages Okuhepa Thank you are spoken. They can be divided into three categories: the Bantu languages Kara nawa Goodbye spoken by the Owambo, Herero, Kavango, Caprivians and Tswana; the Indo-Germanic languages of Afrikaans, German and English; and the Khoesan languages spoken by the San/Bushmen, Nama and Damara. In Kavango: most parts of Namibia, you will not experience a language barrier. Even in Morokeni! Hello! rural areas, school kids will be able to interpret. Na pandura Thank you

Nama/Damara: Key Phrases Matisa? How are you? Key phrases in some of the national languages: Ayo Thank you Moro Good morning Afrikaans: Gaiseha Goodbye Goeie môre Good morning Hoe gaan dit? How are you? Owambo: Goed, dankie. Fine, thanks. Wa lelepo nawa? Did you sleep well? Asseblief Please Eee! Yes! Dankie Thank you Nawa! Well! Totsie n s Goodbye Iyaloo Thank you Kalapa nawa Goodbye Batswana: Dumela Hello San: O kae? How are you? Am thai? How are you? Ke a leboga Thank you Mem ari gu I am thirsty Sala sentle Goodbye Mem tlabe I am hungry

Caprivi: Ma lumele sha! I greet you! Ni itumezi Thank you Na lapela Please Mu siale hande Goodbye

80 Slang • potjie - a three-legged cast iron pot that is used to cook stews over the Some slang words to bring you closer to the locals. ﬁre • Aweh! - said in excitement. The word has many meanings or uses: • robot – a trafﬁc light "hello", "goodbye", "yes" • shebeen - an informal bar that's open 24 hours • babbelas - hangover • sies - expression of disgust, disappointment, annoyance • bakkie - a pick-up truck • sisi/sister – female friend • bill - the cheque, asked for after a great meal • smiley – a goat’s or sheep’s head, cooked and ready for consumption • biltong – dried and seasoned meat, a very popular snack • sosatie – a selection of meats and vegetables on a stick, also reserved • braai - a barbecue. Braaiing is a national past time and the turning of for the braai the meat whilst holding a beer in the other hand is taken very seri- • tate – respectful name for a male ously • vetkoekie – fried bread dough, usually sold with kapana • bra/bru/boet - male friend • wors - spicy sausage for accompanying the chop on the braai • chop – a piece of meat usually reserved for the braai • yoh - an expression of surprise • dorp - small town • droë wors – dried sausage, similar to biltong • eish! - an interjection expressing resignation • isit - said as a question in response to a statement. Meaning 'really'? or 'is that so?' • ja - yes • jol - to have fun, to party • just now/now, now - means anytime within the next 50 years other than right this moment • kapana – traditionally barbequed meat, usually sold in the townships or on the side of the roads • koppie - a small hill, but not yet a mountain • lapa - the thatched outdoor shelter used for shade from the African sun or to braai underneath when the weather’s bad. • lekker - nice, good, great, tasty, awesome • meme – respectful name for a female • pap - traditional maize porridge • plaas - farm

81 Vegetarians Many accommodation facilities cater for kids, but many also don’t, so it is Namibia is a meat-eating country! But restaurants and accommodation fa- advisable to check this when making a booking. Some guest farms have cilities cater for vegetarians. It is best is to inform the hotel or restaurant or tame animals like meerkats that children can pet and play with, while other tour operator in advance or any special dietary requirements. places offer kids the opportunity to come into contact with wild animals like cheetahs and lions. Depending on the age of the kids, adventure activities Electrical current like quad biking, dune boarding and dolphin watching can also be a lot of The electrical current in Namibia is 220 volts, 50 cycles. You will need a fun. transformer to use American appliances such as hair dryers or battery chargers, but computers are equipped to handle the change in voltage. Na- Namibia for Mature Adventurers mibian outlets commonly use the three-pronged plug (also known as the Namibia is a popular destination for mature travelers who can part-take in South African plug). Adapters can be bought in Windhoek and other major the majority of adventure activities. It is advisable to tell your operator or towns. hotel about any health problems or dietary restrictions. Luxury hiking is a popular option, while game watching, ocean cruises and Government ballooning are more options. Namibia is ruled by a Multiparty Parliament and has a democratic constitution that is highly regarded by the international community. The president Reading List (currently His Excellency Hifikepunye Pohamba) is voted in directly by the Below is a list of suggested books and movies on Namibia electorate for a five-year term and is supported by the Prime Minister, (cur- Skeleton Coast, a coffee table book by renowned nature photographer and rently the Right Honourable Nahas Angula) and Cabinet. Parliament is author Amy Schoeman. comprised of two houses; one is elected directly and the other indirectly by Birds of Namibia – A photographic journey, by Pompie Burger the country’s regions. The Government’s policy of national reconciliation Namib – Secrets of a desert uncovered, by scientists Mary Seely and John Pallett and unity embraces the concepts of tolerance, respect for differing political Etosha – Celebrating a hundred years of conservation views, and racial and ethnic harmony. The Constitution provides for the An Arid Eden – A personal account of conservation in the Kaokoveld, by Garth division of power between the executive, legislature and judiciary. Owen-Smith A History of Namibia – from the beginning to 1990, by Marion Wallace, John Ki- In Namibia's lower chamber of parliament, the National Assembly, the fol- nahan lowing nine parties are represented: South West Africa People’s Organiza- The Sheltering Desert, a personal account of surviving in the desert, by Henno tion (54, plus 6 non-voting members), Rally for Democracy and Progress (8), Martin Congress of Democrats (1), Democratic Turnhalle Alliance (2), United Healing Makes Our Hearts Happy, a book on the Ju/’hoansi-San of the Kala- Democratic Front (2), National Unity Democratic Organisation (2), Republi- hari Desert, by Richard Katz can Party (1), All People’s Party (1), South West Africa National Union (1). Cookbooks: My hungry Heart – Notes from a Namibian kitchen, a award-wining cookbook by Namibia with Kids local food fundi Antoinette de Chavonnes Vrugt Namibia can be an intriguing place for children with lots to see and do, but Etosha, a film by Paul van Schalkwyk parents need to keep in mind that destinations can be quite far apart and Children’s reading: Silver, Jackal of the Namib, by Pieter Pieterse children might get bored or frustrated on the road, so make sure they have enough to keep them busy. It is also a good idea to stop frequently to stretch the legs and admire the natural surroundings.

82 Weather – What to Pack The clothes you’ll pack will depend on the time of year you’re planning to visit. Summers can be quite hot, while winters are cooler (Remember that the seasons are reversed from North America!) Nighttime temperatures in winter can get very low, especially in the desert areas and it is best to pack a set or two of proper warm clothing. Dress in Namibia tends to be casual and T-shirts and shorts are popular wear. For evenings around the ﬁre, even during summer, it is recommended to pack a ﬂeece top or sweater. By the coast, it can be windy and foggy no matter what time of the year. During summer time, a wide-brimmed hat, long-sleeved cotton shirt, high SPF sunscreen and sunglasses are vital. Lightweight hiking shoes are recommended when planning to explore the natural surroundings. When visiting during the rainy season (November to March) it is also recommended to pack some waterproof items, including a jacket and shoes.

83 ACTIVITIES IN NAMIBIA

Endless horizons, clear skies and a population density that ranks among the lowest in the world – it all combines to give visitors a true sense of freedom. This is part of what makes Namibia the quintessential African vacation. Whether your interest is in wildlife, landscape, adventure, people, culture – your days here will be filled with plenty of sunshine, beautiful sights and unforgettable experiences found nowhere else on earth. Only in Namibia. Activities coastline in the world – the Skeleton Coast. The race usually takes place in April. 4x4 trails With landscapes ranging from the Kalahari in the east, the Namib Lucky Star Marathon: The marathon takes place every year in in the west and the desolate expanses of the Kaokoveld in the October between the coastal towns of Swakopmund and Walvis north-west, there are numerous opportunities in Namibia to ex- Bay. Through this race, the organizers aim to promote community plore off-the-beaten-track destinations by 4x4 vehicle. involvement and the benefits of a healthy lifestyle among Na- mibia’s youth. Consequently significant focus is placed on involv- Adventure Races ing schools across the country. Adventure racing, often in the form of extreme running, is extremely popular in Namibia. Races vary in length, challenge and Old Mutual Victory Race Series: This race is run in four dif- region – but are generally for adventurous tourists looking to push ferent legs in categories of either 5km or 21 km, in Oshakati, their physical limits. Below is a list of top adventure races: Swakopmund, Keetmanshoop and Windhoek

The Rock: Spitzkoppe Run and Bike Challenge is a foot-and- cycle race around the Spitzkoppe in the Namib held each year in Aussenkehr Desert Extreme Trail Run: This three day 100 September. There are various categories including half-marthon km desert run takes runners along the banks of the Orange River, running, walking and cycling 25 and 70km. The race celebrates into the mountain country of Namibia, across the harsh plateaus the natural beauty of the Spitzkoppe and surroundings and pro- and through ancient and enchanting canyons. It is usually held ceeds go to the the local community . from the end of June to the beginning of July.

100km of Namib Desert: Is a century face (100 km) that can Fish River Marathon and Cycle: Participants can choose be- subject runners to extreme conditions such as sandstorms, strong tween a 104 km cycle, 54 km cycle, 42.2 km marathon, half mara- winds, blistering heat during the day and freezing temperatures at thon, 10 km fun walk, 30 km fun horse ride, or a 3 km kiddies and night. It takes place during December in the Sossusvlei area. parent fun walk. Through the marathon, runners can qualify for the Two Oceans and Comrades marathons in South Africa. It Namib Desert Challenge: Regarded as one of the toughest commences from the Keetmanshoop 1Stop Petrol Station and is footraces on earth, this race covers 228 km of inhospitable, desert usually held in October. terrain. It is held in the Sossusvlei area, and includes five stages of high-endurance ultra running, with competitors carrying their Fish River Challenge: Runners are expected to support them- own survival kit and food. The competition takes place in March selves throughout a 100 km run in 24 hours. The race begins at and can only host 80 participants. the top of the Fish River Canyon and finishes at the Ai-Ais hot- springs. It usually takes place in August. Namibian 24-hour Ultra Marathon: The race is over 126 km, starting at the foot of the Brandberg and finishing at Jak- Angling kalsputz at the coast, crossing large areas of the most hostile desert Thousands of anglers head for the coast each year in search of the ‘big one’. Angling species include the sought-after kabeljou (kob),

85 galjoen, blacktail (dassie) and West Coast steenbras. While de- spised by some anglers, the sea barbell is considered by gourmets Another popular spot is Von Bach Dam just south of Okahandja, to be a delicacy when smoked. accessible from the B1. Here, anglers can cast for large-mouth bass, blue kurper, small-mouth yellowfish, carp and barbel. Also in the November to March is generally the most rewarding time for an- central region is the Friedenau Dam, a popular venue for anglers gling, due to warmer water conditions. from Windhoek, while the Naute Dam in the south is another option. Angling destinations along the central Namibian coast include the area between Paaltjies and the northern boundary of Sandwich The Zambezi River, in the far northeast of the country, is home Harbour, and the coastal strip between Walvis Bay and Swakop- to some 40 angling species, including the rapacious tiger fish. mund. Especially popular is the newly proclaimed Dorob Nation- Specimens weighing 6.5 kg and upwards are not uncommon. bal Park, which extends from just north of Swakopmund for 200 June to December, when the river subsides, is generally consid- km to the Ugab River. Familiar angling spots include Mile 8, Mile ered the best season. Other popular angling species include red- 14 Beach Resort, Die Drom north of Wlotzkasbaken, Bennie se breast, greenhead and three-spot tilapia, humpback largemouth, Rooi Lorrie, Jakkalsputz, Henties Bay, Sarah se Gat, Mile 72 and nembwe and pink happy. Mile 108. Still further north, in the Skeleton Coast Park, are Torra Bay and Terrace Bay. Ballooning Hot-air ballooning is like a magic carpet ride. There is no turbu- lence, as the balloon travels at the current wind speed. A good sug- Shark angling gestion for those with a passion for photography. Shark angling is practiced throughout the year, with the months A balloon flight over the Twyfelfontein Conservancy provides a between November and May being the best for coppershark. bird’s-eye view over Damaraland desert scenery, which includes a Also known as the bronzy, the coppershark reaches weights of unique variety of desert flora and fauna and fascinating geological between 15–190 kg. A strong fighter, it is an excellent sport fish. formations. At Swakopmund an early-morning balloon flight pro- Smaller sharks include the cowshark, smooth hound shark and vides the experience of the contrast of the desert with the Atlantic spotted gully shark, also known as spotty. Shark-angling excur- Ocean as the balloon drifts along the coast. sions are offered by tour operators in Swakopmund, Walvis Bay and Henties Bay. Namibia follows a national action plan to con- Birding serve shark species, under which all sharks should be returned With habitats ranging from the Namib dunes, coastal wetlands and to the sea live and unharmed. savannahs to the floodplains and waterways of Kavango and Ca- privi, Namibia’s birding checklist boasts 676 of Southern Africa's 887 species. Freshwater angling Heading the list of ‘megaticks’ are Namibia’s 15 endemic and Namibia’s dams in the interior offer several options for freshwater near-endemic species. Among these are Rüppell’s korhaan, Hart- angling, with the Hardap Dam, easily accessible from the B1, 15 laub’s spurfowl, Rüppell’s parrot, Violet wood-hoopoe, Carp’s tit, km north of Mariental, heading the list. The dam is stocked with Monteiro’s hornbill, Herero chat, Damara hornbill (newly classi- Mozambique tilapia, small-mouth yellowfish, Orange River mud- fied) and the white-tailed shrike. fish, sharptooth catfish, moggel and common carp. The most rewarding birding destination is the north-eastern region

86 of the country. Of the more than 450 species recorded here to Camping date, several have a limited distribution elsewhere in Southern Af- Namibia is a camper’s paradise. There are a medley of sights, rica, including Okavango ‘specials’ such as the slaty egret, swamp smells, tastes and sounds to be experienced and enjoyed through boubou, chirping cisticola and greater swamp-warbler. Noteworthy camping in Namibia – from the harsh, barren, stony plains around species occurring along the Okavango and Zambezi rivers include the Fish River Canyon, past the vast red dunes of Sossusvlei, along the rock pratincole, African skimmer and long-toed lapwing. the wind-swept shores of the cold Atlantic Ocean to the seemingly Birding hotspots in the north-east are the Bwabwata National Park, endless plains and rocky mountains of Damaraland and the humid Impalila Island (400+ species), the Mudumu and Mamili national forests on the banks of the Zambezi River in Caprivi. Each corner parks, Katima Mulilo and the Zambezi River, and the western holds a secret treasure of its own. There is a wide choice of sites all bank of the Kwando River. The wetlands of Walvis Bay and Sand- over Namibia for seasoned campers or nervous novices on their wich Harbour rank among the most important coastal wetlands in first camping holiday, from luxury campsites under shady trees and Africa and make for optimal birding. grassy lawns, to wild places under a camel-thorn tree in a sandy riv- Nearly a quarter of Namibia’s birds are Palaearctic or intra- erbed. African migrants. The coastal flats are an important breeding ground of the endangered Damara tern, while the gravel flats of In recent years, there has been a growth in preference for commu- the pre-Namib are home to Gray’s lark and in the dune areas fur- nity campsites. These campsites, especially in the northwest and ther south, the dune lark, Namibia’s only true endemic bird spe- north-east of the country, have stylishly natural designs, and have cies. been built with material from the area such as ‘latte’ (sapling When Avis Dam on Windhoek’s outskirts holds water, quality bird- poles), reeds and thatch, with some being constructed creatively in ing can be enjoyed close to the capital. Species of interest include boulder alcoves or on riverbanks. The majority has flush toilets the white-tailed shrike, Monteiro’s hornbill and the rockrunner. and hot water, provided either by solar panels or the remarkably Other well-known birding destinations in Namibia are the Water- efficient wood-burning ‘donkeys’, and a shaded lapa area or berg Plateau Park, Etosha National Park and the Kunene River en- kitchen counter with sink and wooden railway-sleeper counter virons (the latter especially for ‘specials’ such as the Cinderella wax- tops. Others, in the watery north, have decks overlooking the river. bill, rufous-tailed palm-thrush and bare-cheeked babbler). Activities at the community campsites depend on their location. Camel rides: Some are near scenery and parks which others are near living mu- An entirely new way to explore the spectacular wilderness areas of seums and homesteads. Damaraland is on the back of a camel. Camels Namibia conducts camel safaris on a five-day/six night basis from Twyfelfontein This is an example of responsible tourism as the proceeds for the Country Lodge, ending at Ugab Rhino Camp. The 105-kilometre community campsites return to the communities, conservancies or camel expedition is supported by 4x4 vehicles, while riders travel local craftsmen. only with a light daypack and explore the area with knowledgeable guides. A limited number of five adventure trekkers can be accom- Canoeing, Kayaking, Rafting modated per trip, so each trek is small and sociable. Although Namibia is mostly an arid region, there are plenty of res- ervoirs and rivers suitable for canoeing and rafting. Canoeing is also offered by lodges on the banks of the Orange, Kunene and Okavango rivers

87 Down the Orange clude life jackets and helmets. Felix Unite River Adventures offers four-day and six-day canoe trips down the Orange, by all accounts the perfect activity to feed The annual Oewona Namibia River Challenge raises money for the soul: Oewona (the Organization for the Empowerment of Widows/ Widowers and Orphans of HIV-AIDS in Namibia). Participant Hot watery days are spent cruising with the current, or paddling against an cross the border and head some 60 kilometers into Angola before unexpected headwind, interspersed with regular dips. Unlike most great Afri- turning around to tackle the grueling five-day challenge down the can rivers, there is nothing harmful lurking in the Orange, although you might Okavango River. be startled by loud splashing sounds caused by huge but harmless barbels. Catamaran On the Kunene Coastal tour operators like Catamaran Charters and Sun Sail Char- Only the lucky few go on the 10-day Felix Unite Rio Kunene Sa- ters conducts tours on catamarans, where the chances of encounter- fari as it runs just once or twice a year, with a minimum of 16 peo- ing dolphins, whales, turtles, seals and mola molas (sunfish) make ple. Setting out from Windhoek, the expedition starts with a drive the search for the Marine Big 5 an adventurous excursion. Tours de- through the Etosha National Park, then proceeds to the far north part from the Walvis Bay Yacht Club and continue on their route where the Kunene forms a border with Angola. into the Bay Area, where it moves alongside the oyster platforms. Caving Braving the thundering white-water rapids for a swim is not encour- Over 120 caves have been registered in Namibia, the various envi- aged, as they are powerful and there are crocodiles around. On the ronments providing plenty of adrenaline-inducing and educative last evening, camp is pitched on the banks of the Kunene within experiences. The longest and only ‘tourist’ (because of on-site facili- hearing distance of the magnificent Epupa Falls, cascading down a ties) cave in Namibia is Arnhem Cave, with slightly over 4 800 me- sheer drop of 40 meters. ters total passage length and intersect groundwater. At one time the cave contained massive deposits of bat guano that were extracted Epupa Camp also offers the opportunity for river rafting on the on a large scale. The cave is very dusty and dry, with almost no sec- Kunene as a completely new way to experience the river and sur- ondary cave formations. Visitors are allowed only torches or cave rounding environment. lamps to negotiate Arnhem's large chambers and winding passages. The lack of development causes minimal disturbance of the exten- On the Okavango sive and diverse bat population, which also ensures the conserva- The Okavango River offers a different and very localized form of tion of several unique invertebrate species. Six species of bats have canoeing. Several lodges along the banks offer canoeists trips of been recorded at Arnhem, including the giant leaf-nosed bat. Over- varying lengths, giving them the opportunity to see life on the river night accommodation is available at the site. from up close – people washing clothes, bathing and fishing and A national monument and the third largest in Namibia, the Gaub children playing, locals passing by on a mukoro (a traditional dug- Cave in the Otavi Mountains can be visited on the Ghaub Guest out canoe), and plenty of hippos, crocodiles and birds. All in all ca- Farm, from where tours are organised with a designated guide, mi- noeing down the Okavango is an enjoyable experience with only nor’s lamp and safety helmet. The Gaub cave is 38 m in depth with shallow and easily manageable rapids – even the hippos allow you 2.5 km of chambers and passageways. Petrified waterfalls, organ to pass without a fuss, and the crocodiles are no bigger than adult pipes, rock curtains and interesting crystal growths are some of the monitor lizards. Most of the lodges supply rafting kits, which in-

88 features to be seen. high summer temperatures, climbing is best done between April Dragon’s Breath, near Tsumeb, is another well-known cave, hosting and September. the world’s largest underground lake. Cave diving can be done here, but it’s only accessible for professional and well-equipped cav- Community Based Tourism ers. With good facilities, attractive construction, well-selected sites and Another well-visited cave of a totally different nature is Phillip’s luxuries such as hot water, water taps and flush toilets, community Cave in the Erongo Mountains north of Karibib. Containing a fa- camping can be quite luxurious. Rather, amenities have been whit- mous rock painting of a white elephant and many others, it is sur- tled down to the necessities, providing all you need for a positive rounded by an evocative rock formation, called Bull’s Party, due to and pleasurable experience. The outdoors does the rest. Starlight, its semblance to a group of conferring bovines. animal and insect sounds, moonshine and beautiful landscapes pro- Permission from the landowners is required to visit other caves in vide the settings for good experiences and great accommodation Namibia, with visits to certain caves requiring official permits. Visi- at affordable rates. See the section on Camping for more information tors are recommended to wear industrial dust masks when visiting caves with thick deposits of dry bat guano. Since bats are of great ecological importance, visitors are asked not to disturb them, par- Craft initiatives give the local craftsmen outlets for their goods, ticularly during the wet season (January–April) when bats are breed- ranging from baskets that are works of art in themselves to attrac- ing. tive hand-made paper products. They also give visitors to the Cave disease (histoplasmosis) has not been recorded from any Na- country an opportunity to buy authentic Namibian crafts. mibian caves. Prospective visitors, particularly if they come from countries with histoplasmosis, or visit Namibia after caving in such Information offices provide useful guidelines about the areas, activi- countries, are therefore requested to ensure that all their equip- ties, attractions and recommended guided trips. ment is cleaned and sanitised before entering Namibia. Such simple precautions may keep Namibian caves uninfected and safe for The proceeds for the community endeavors and establishments re- casual visitors. turn to the communities, conservancies or local craftsmen, rather than private enterprises, thus directly benefiting the people of Na- Climbing mibia. Rising abruptly above the Namib plains, the Spitzkoppe is Na- mibia’s top rock-climbing destination. Since the first successful as- Diving cent in 1946, there have been more than 500 ascents to the 1 728 Diving off the coast m-high summit. There are several sport-climbing routes that have With sea temperatures ranging between 8˚C and 18˚C and severely been secured with bolts. Some 44 sport-climbing routes, ranging restricted visibility, diving off the Namib coast presents a formida- from South African grades 10 to 27, have been opened in the Spitz- ble challenge, even to experienced divers. A daunting, but possible koppe area. The Erongo Mountains also offer excellent rock- area for diving is the stretch of coast between Lüderitz and climbing challenges, such as Omandumba in the western Erongos, Spencer Bay, where conditions are best from December to May offering 30 traditional routes up to the South African grade 20, as when visibility ranges between 3–10 meters. well as 20 sport-climbing routes, ranging from SA grades 16 to 23. Cave diving A selection of climbing routes is available at Aussenkehr in the The caves and sinkholes in Namibia that are suitable for diving are south, about 50 km west of the Noordoewer border crossing. With all at an altitude of more than 1 450 meters above sea level and

89 have depths ranging from 30 to 130 meters. The diving is therefore coast and sightings are 99% successful, while the larger Atlantic bot- technically advanced, for which special skills and experience are tlenose and dusky dolphins are seen less often. In season, larger required. The caves are classified as type III caves/sinkholes by the mammals like the southern right and humpback whales may be World Underwater Federation CMAS, and training is done with spotted, and with a bit of luck, the mighty killer whales (orcas). altitude and CMAS standards in mind. Any other qualifications are Rare sightings of sunfish (mola mola) and leatherback turtles also closely scrutinized and evaluated on an individual basis, always keep guests on the lookout. with at least one qualified CMAS/NUF instructor on hand during Walvis Bay-based Mola Mola Safaris has been conducting dolphin dives. cruises for many years. The company has a high success rate in Best known for diving and easily accessible is Lake Otjikoto, north- tracking down the dolphins and giving clients close-up views of west of Tsumeb, which was used as a dumping ground for field Cape fur seals. Levo Tours, also based in Walvis Bay, takes guests on guns and ammunition by German troops retreating from South Af- dolphin and seal tours, which last for approximately four hours. A rican forces during World War I. Otjikoto is home to the endemic variety of birds such as pelicans, flamingos and cormorants can be Otjikoto tilapia, a species that also occurs in Lake Guinas. The best seen and wild seals are fed by hand on the ski-boat. Fresh oysters, time to dive in Otjikoto is from April to October, outside the rainy champagne and snacks are enjoyed at the seal colony where dol- season and when temperatures are suitable for camping. phins join the fun around the boat. Another way to experience the For those with cave-diving experience, Dragon’s Breath Cave on marine life around Pelican Point and Walvis Bay is through Catama- Harasib farm, northwest of Grootfontein, offers the opportunity to ran Charters. Conducted on one of three catamarans, the chances dive in the largest subterranean lake in the world. In 2011, two Na- of encountering dolphins, whales, turtles, seals and mola molas (sun- mibian divers and their team broke the Dragon’s Breath record by fish) make the search for the Marine Big 5 an adventurous excur- diving to a depth of 105 meters. On the same farm is another cave sion. named Harasib with a drop of 140 meters to water level, followed by a water depth of 80 metres. The 130-metre-deep Lake Guinas Dune & Sandboarding is on a farm that lies northwest of Otjikoto. Temperatures in the Buffeted by the predominantly southwest winds, the slopes and slip- caves range from 20–22ºC. faces of the dunes between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay are ideal To dive in lakes like Harasib, Guinas and Dragon’s Breath, special for sand and dune boarding. With an altitude of up to 120 meters, qualifications and experience including abseiling techniques are re- sand boarders can accelerate to speeds of up to 80 km/h on the quired. To rig and de-rig these caves for diving, requires at least a high dunes. Depending on individual skills and balance, sand week of work by a team of six people, and then a diver can do only boarding can be done either by lying down, sitting, or standing on two dives a day, whilst abseiling with full equipment. This in itself the board. Numerous operators provide boarding activities, lessons creates a logistical problem when time is of the essence. Notice or equipment for hire. Individuals who have no previous experi- should be given at least three months in advance by divers so that ence are advised to use a guided activity operator, as boarding, like the appropriate arrangements can be made. any other adventure activity, has an element of risk. Dolphin Cruises Endurance Sports The cold Atlantic waters off the Namib coast harbor a wealth of See also “Adventure Races” marine life, including two dolphin species and a large colony of There are many endurance sports in Namibia, ranging from horse Cape fur seals resident at Pelican Point. riding, cycling and footraces. The beauty of endurance sport is the The 1.3-metre-long Heaviside’s dolphin is endemic to the west challenge, and with Namibia, a country dominated by the harshest

90 of conditions, there is none greater. See Adventure Races for more golf clubs, allowing a maximum of 15 kg of golfing equipment to information on footraces, Mountain Biking section for more infor- be checked through with no charge. Golf courses can also be found mation on cycle races and visit the Namibia Endurance Ride Asso- in Gobabis, Okahandja, Oshakati, Lüderitz, Tsumeb, Otjiwarongo, ciation (www.namibiaendurance.org) website for more information Keetmanshoop, Mariental, Oranjemund and Henties Bay. on horse rides. Geology Endurance sports are offered throughout the country. Namibia´s varied geology encompasses rocks of the Archaen to Phanerozoic age, thus covering more than 2600 million years of Flying earth history. Nearly half of the country’s surface area is bedrock Rostock Ritz Fly-in exposure, while young surficial deposits of the Kalahari and Na- In 2011 the Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge hosted its 7th annual fly-in mib Deserts cover the remainder. competition, sponsored by West Air Maintenance and hosted by Wolfgang Kühhirt, owner of Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge and also Some companies offer tours specialized in Namibia’s geology. an active pilot. The event was once again a huge success supervised by four air traffic controllers with a well-planned navigational route Hiking and some great spot landings. A total of 17 aircraft attended the Namibia offers a wide variety of walks, overnight hiking trails and event, themed the Living Desert, due to the heavy rains and unusu- guided wilderness trails for those wanting to explore the countryside ally green desert Namibia experienced in 2011. The event usually on foot. Keep in mind that the Namib Desert is an arid environment takes place in June and is attended mostly by Namibian and South and often extremely hot with no trees to provide shade. African flying enthusiasts. Flight for the Plight Air Show Aus and surroundings In the spring of every other year the Rare and Endangered Species Named after the wild horses of the Namib that roam the plains to Trust (REST) hosts the day-long Flight for the Plight of the Cape the west of Klein-Aus Vista, the Desert Horse Hiking Trail com- Vulture Air Show, with fly-ins by various power planes and helicop- prises several hiking routes that traverse the rugged Aus Mountains ters, aeronautical displays and competitions, a Namibian Air Force located in the Gondwana Sperrgebiet Rand Park to view the wild flyover and parachutists jumping from a plane. The show, which is horses that roam the plains to the west of Klein-Aus Vista. Along aimed at raising awareness for the plight of the Cape vulture, the way, hikers can explore World War I entrenchments, interesting threatened with extinction from Namibian skies, usually takes place and rare succulents and expansive fields of desert flora (July– Sep- from a base near Otjiwarongo, and is planned again for 2012. tember). Most captivating of all is the endless view overlooking the Namib Desert. The five different hiking trails are the Sunset Walk Golfing (1 hour, easy), Schutztruppe Trail (3 hours, easy), Mountain Trail (2 European golfers should consider coming to Namibia after Septem- hours, easy), Geister Trail (4 hours, for experienced hikers) and Ea- ber, following the European golfing season. Packages include a Namib- gle Trail (5 hours, for experienced hikers), all indicated with col- ian golfing safari coupled with a golfing escape in Cape Town, culmi- oured arrows and looping back to the starting point. There are also nating in a golf/sightseeing trip to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Be- two Historical Trails (either 1 hour, or 2-3 hours) that starts at the cause of the direct flights to Walvis Bay from Cape Town, many Aus Information Centre and takes hikers past World War 1 South Africans enjoy playing the salt-surface golf course at Walvis trenches, shelters, canon stands, and a cave. The best time for hik- Bay. Air Namibia accommodates passengers who bring along their ing is during the winter (April– October), and since this is a winter-

91 rainfall area, rain gear and sufficient warm clothing are essential. ment and food for the duration of the hike. Well worn-in boots with good ankle support are essential. From Henties Bay The Fish River Lodge offers a luxury hike of 5 days from April to The unmarked 18-km Jakkalsputz Walking Trail starts at the south- October, with the first and last night spent at the lodge. Hikers ern end of Henties Bay from the Gallows and ends at Jakkalsputz. carry only their lunch and water supply for the day – a back-up ve- It is best done at low tide when the rock pools are visible. For the hicle transports the tents and other luggage. Camps are set up for more energetic there are the 20-km and 70-km Omaruru River the hikers, offering sundowners, dinner and breakfast. This hike of- Walking Trails, both quite strenuous and best done on a cool day fers excellent views of the canyon. For the very fit a day hike into when it is overcast. The 20-km trail proceeds along the beach the canyon may also be available (subject to demand) covering a northwards to the Omaruru River mouth, up along the river and distance of approximately 30km. back to Henties Bay across the desert plains. The 70-km option is unmarked and water must be taken along. Hikers proceed along Namib-Naukluft Park and surroundings the Omaruru River to the big fig tree or Omdel Dam, where they The Namib-Naukluft Park can be explored along several interesting camp for the night. They can return the same way or along a small walks and an overnight trail. In the Naukluft section of the park are track running from the dam wall in a northerly direction towards two rewarding day hikes, the 10-km Olive Trail and the more de- the C35 (14 km) and along the C35 to Henties Bay (27 km). manding Waterkloof Trail, which covers 17 km and takes between 6–7 hours to complete. The Namib section of the park offers the From Swakopmund Rock Sculpture Trail (up to three hours), and the Tinkas Nature A new initiative by a local tour company, Tour & Travel Biz, offers Walk (4–5 hours). A medical certificate, issued within 40 days of the guided half-day hikes into the Moonlandscape. The moonscape is a starting date, must be handed in at commencement of the trail. totally barren, undulating, rocky desert, which was formed by the Also called the Eight Day Trail, the 120-km Namib-Naukluft Hik- valleys of the Swakop river. Tours depart from Swakopmund at ing Trail is regarded by seasoned hikers as one of Africa’s toughest sunrise. hiking challenges. It has eight-, four- and two-day options, and some sections have to be negotiated by holding on to chains and Fish River Canyon might prove difficult for hikers with a fear of heights. Routes are One of the major hiking trails in Southern Africa, the Fish River along dry riverbeds (alive with almost 200 bird species, including Canyon Hiking Trail, takes backpackers on a journey along the the rosy-faced lovebird), up mountainous and winding zebra paths second-largest canyon in the world through spectacular scenery, and offer panoramic vistas of the Naukluft spreading to infinity. solitude and total wilderness. Hemmed in by sheer canyon walls Highlights include the spectacular Ubisis Kloof; the Kudu Plains; towering as much as 549 metres above the meandering river, the the beautiful Zebra Ravine carved by the Tsams River; the Euphor- trail runs between the northernmost viewpoint of the Fish River bia Ravine; the Quiver Tree Ridge; the rosy-coloured Arbeid Adelt Canyon and the thermal hot spring at the /Ai-/Ais Spa. Valley where rose quartz abounds; Tufa Tavern, a huge cave next The trail is 85 km long, is self-guided and usually takes four or five to an enormous fig tree; and at 1 980 metres, the highest point on days. It can be undertaken only from 15 April to 15 September, the trail, Bakenkop. Bookings are made only for the period be- due to high summer temperatures and the danger of flash floods tween 1 March and the third Friday in October and group sizes during the rainy season. A medical form completed by a doctor no must number from three to 12. more than 40 days prior to the hike, must be handed in at Hobas The Quiver Tree Gorge Trail is offered by BüllsPort Guest Farm before commencing the hike. Trailists must carry all their equip- for hikers who do not want to hike a full day. It takes visitors up to

92 the plateau in a 4x4 vehicle, who then hike through the biggest more challenging and fitness is essential. The duration of the trail is fountain gorge in the Naukluft mountains, with many big rock- five days/four nights and entails 7–8 hours walking per day, with all pools to cool off and plenty of quiver trees. luggage, including food and water, carried by the hikers themselves. Lead by an experienced guide, you will savour the remoteness and NAUKLUFT experience vastness of this ancient desert landscape. Temperatures can reach up The owners of the Ababis and BüllsPort guest farms joined forces to 35°C during the day, sometimes plummeting down to –5°C at in 2004 to create the NAUKLUFT experience and develop adven- night. A maximum of seven people can be accommodated on the ture activities in the area, including a hiking trail on Zipfelberg in trail. the Naukluft. The Peter Bridgeford Hiking Trail, named after well- known conservationist Peter Bridgeford, was inaugurated early in Ugab Hiking Trail 2005. An important aspect of the NAUKLUFT experience project For keen, self-sufficient hikers, the two-night, three-day Ugab Hiking is involving the community of Nabasib, a small village 15 km south Trail, guided by a nature conservation ranger, explores the Ugab of the Naukluft massif. Seasonal work on active farming operations River and environs. Conducted along the Skeleton Coast, this trail has been their main source of income in the past. The partners covers a total of about 50 km, taking hikers across the seemingly bar- hope that by creating a product that is not dependent on rainfall ren gravel plains of the Namib Desert, and along the Ugab River and can be expanded, further jobs will be created on a more sus- with its impressive canyons. Along the way hikers have a close-up tainable level to benefit the community and region in the long run. look at different lichen species and numerous small creatures and plants living in this seemingly inhospitable environment. Tok Tokkie Trails Trails run throughout the cooler months, from April to October. The well-known Tok Tokkie Trails, which have been in operation Most people camp at Mile 108 the previous night. Groups are lim- since 1997, are offered on the NamibRand Nature Reserve by Un- ited to between 6–8 people. A sturdy rucksack and all camping equip- limited Travel & Car hire cc. The location is accessed from the ment and food are required. Hikers must carry their own backpacks D827, with the turnoff sign-posted 400 metres or so north of the and equipment and sleep out in the open. Bookings for the trail are C27–D827 junction. The duration of the desert-walking trail of made with the Nature Conservation office in Windhoek, well in ad- approximately 22 km is two nights/three days. vance (ideally 18 months or so), and all the participants will need a Alternating between the gravel plains, sand dunes and inselbergs of medical certificate of fitness issued a maximum of 40 days before the the NamibRand Nature Reserve, walking is at a leisurely pace, hike commences. with the focus on the desert-adapted flora and fauna. A back-up crew sets up the overnight camps in the most scenic settings with Trails in the Waterberg Plateau Park sundowners, three-course dinners and breakfasts enjoyed amongst On the Waterberg Guided Wilderness Trail, the possibility of a the dunes. Lunch is provided at a shaded lunch spot. All equipment face-to-face encounter with a black rhino or a buffalo is very real. is provided, so trailists need to bring only their hiking boots, hats, The route takes hikers, accompanied by a park warden, through sunblock and hiking clothes. They carry only a light daypack with magnificent rock formations and interesting vegetation, affording water and snacks. plenty of time for birding, relaxing and savouring the unique atmosphere of the plateau. The route is 50 km, takes four days to com- Desert Experience Trail plete and has basic overnight trail shelters with water and toilets Similar to the Tok Tokkie Trail, the Desert Experience Trail is also along the way. It can be undertaken from April to November, start- undertaken on the NamibRand Nature Reserve. However, the trail is ing on Thursdays, and the group must consist of 6–8 hikers. They

93 must be ﬁt and able to take evasive action quickly in the event of Ride is a more relaxed ride, guided by Dr Telané Greyling, bota- an unexpected encounter, and provide their own food and sleeping nist and world authority on the wild horses of Namibia. A 4-day bags. circular ride in the Sperrgebiet Rand Park, a private reserve adjoin- The Unguided Wilderness Trail at Waterberg is 42 km long and is ing the Sperrgebiet National Park and habitat of the wild horses. undertaken without a guide. The trail takes four days and is open On the Damara Elephant Ride, which takes six and a half days from April to November. Hikers depart every Wednesday at 9:00 through vast open spaces on horse back, riders can expect to see and return on Saturday, and must provide their own food and elephant, giraffe and rhino in a desert habitat, ancient craters and camping equipment. Groups should consist of 3 to 10 persons. remnants from prehistoric times, not to mention the forbidding Skeleton Coast. These trails are all offered by the Namibia Horse Fundraising Treks Safari Company. Desert Elephant Trek Every year the Elephant Human Relations Aid (EHRA) organisa- The Desert Homestead 35 kilometres from Sossusvlei, offers action runs a sponsored 141km walk through Damaraland over 5 commodation in rock chalets with views across the Nubib Moun- days to raise funds for conﬂict prevention programmes, including a tains. Under the trade name Desert Homestead & Horse Trails, collaring programme for the areas threatened bull elephants. The the enterprise offers horse trails into the surrounding plains and walk is great for anyone looking for a trekking or walking holiday, watercourses, including breakfast rides, sunset rides, a 4x4 Sos- whilst completing a personal challenge and raising money for the susvlei excursion, an introductory ride, sleeping in the desert, and conservation of the desert elephants in Namibia. The route starts an optional sundowner ride. Packages that include the Skeleton near Ugab Wilderness Camp at the foothills of the Brandberg and Coast, Swakopmund and Grootberg are also available. Grootberg leads in a north-westerly direction into the sand dunes, and further Lodge also offers additional morning and afternoon rides. Good towards Doros Crater. From there it swings west to Klein Gai-Ais, to know is that the horses at Grootberg hail from previously disad- from where it turns south to end at the Ugab River. vantaged backgrounds, are tough as nails and totally unfazed by the sudden appearance of elephants. Most of them are Arab barbs bred in the area and bought from the donkey carts. River Crossing, Horsebackriding 3 km outside of Windhoek en route to the International airport of- For accomplished riders there are several options, including the fers morning and afternoon rides, as well as full day rides, which Namib Desert Ride of about 400 km starting in the Khomas include lunch at the foot of a cliff. The pace is varied and suited to Hochland and leading through the Kuiseb Canyon, Tinkas, Tu- the weakest rider in the group. mas and Welwitschia Plains, Moon Valley, the seasonal Swakop River and coastal dunes to the Atlantic Ocean. The Greater Fish Horse trails at BüllsPort are geared to experienced riders as well as River Canyon Ride traverses three private parks: Fish River Can- beginners, and include tailor-made overnight trails into the Nauk- yon Park, Gondwana Park and Aussenkehr Park (about 237 000 luft with participants sleeping under the stars. From just outside of ha), combining dramatic canyon landscapes, spacious desert plains Swakopmund, Okakambe Trails offers tailor-made overnight trails and the mighty Orange River, covering between 20–50 km per into desert terrains varying from sand dunes and rocky plains to day over eight and a half days. The Fish River Canyon Ride takes mountains and dry riverbeds. The daily distance covered is approxi- three and a half days of riding through the second biggest canyon mately 30 to 40 km, depending on the experience of the riders and in the world where zebra paths, steep tracks, savannah grasslands the weather conditions. and rocky tributaries form part of the path. The Desert Horse

94 Okapuka Horse Safaris offers rides in close proximity to Wind- zebra, black and white rhino, hippo, impala, black-faced impala hoek. Riders can expect to be on horseback for between 4 – 5 and Burchell’s zebra, and protected game including lion, blue wil- hours per day on willing, forward going, responsive Arabian horses. debeest, eland, cheetah, red lechwe, roan, sable, sitatunga, steen- Depending on time of arrival, it usually comprises seven days of bok, tsessebe and waterbuck, may be hunted only with a permit riding. issued by the MET.

The Namibia Endurance Ride Association (NERA) holds regular Game-bird hunting is growing in popularity, with some farmers endurance competitions throughout the country, while show jump- managing their game-bird populations to offer this form of hunting is also popular and is organised by the Namibian Equestrian ing. Huntable game birds include Burchell’s and Namaqua sand- Federation. Dressage and horse racing are more horse sports to grouse, red-billed, crested and Orange River francolins, crested choose from. guineafowl, Egyptian goose and Cape and red-billed teal. The bag limits and hunting seasons for the respective species are published Hunting in the Government Gazette. Namibia has become one of the top hunting destinations in Africa. Members of the Namibia Professional Hunters Association (NA- Namibia also offers bow hunting. Several farms have been ap- PHA) maintain a high standard of ethics. Hunting options range proved for bow hunting by the MET, while professional hunters, from trophy hunting on hunting or guest farms to hunting and big master hunting guides and hunting guides are required to qualify game safari in concession areas in the east and northeast of the as bow-hunting guides. country. Kitesurfing Namibia has strict game laws, requiring all hunting farms to reg- With its fresh southwesterly breezes, the Walvis Bay Lagoon at- ister with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET). All tracts board-sailing enthusiasts, especially for kite surfing and kayak- hunting guides, master hunting guides and professional hunters ing. The Walvis Bay Kite Centre offers lessons in kitesurfing, and are required to meet the stringent requirements set by the Minis- equipment rentals and sales. try. The Lüderitz Speed Challenge, a competition for speed sailors, is Trophy hunting is allowed between February and November. The held annually. The first Lüderitz Speed Challenge was held in Sep- Nature Conservation Ordinance provides for four classifications of tember and October 2007, with a number of impressive perform- game: huntable game, specially protected game, protected game ances by entrants suddenly placing Lüderitz on the world-sailing and huntable game birds. map. In 2009 the world speed record for kite surfing was set here, and 2010 was the first time in the history of speed sailing that three Huntable game includes kudu, gemsbok (oryx), springbok, wart- different sailing disciplines were included: hydrofoil boating, wind- hog and bushpig. The hunting season for huntable game on surfing and kite surfing. farms is usually in June and July. Written permission must be obtained from the farmer before a permit will be issued by the Mountain Biking MET. Namibia’s central plateau running from north to south with an average altitude of between 1 000 and 2 000 meters, the rugged moun- Specially protected game such as elephant, Hartmann’s mountain tainous escarpment that descends into the Namib Desert in the west,

95 and the rolling hills of the Khomas Hochland west of Windhoek, The Otjihavera Xperience is a strenuous two-day, two-stage provide many opportunities for exhilarating and truly tough moun- mountain-bike event hosted by the Rock and Rut Mountain Bike tain biking. Club. The route starts at Heja Lodge from where it follows jeep- tracks and farm roads passing the Otjihase mine and then into One of the pioneering mountain-bike safari operators is Mountain farmland until it reaches Midgard Lodge. Day two kicks off from Bike Namibia (MBN), offering a round trip of about 3 500 km to Midgard Lodge, where the route goes towards the Otjihavera visit Sossusvlei, Swakopmund, Damaraland and the Etosha National mountain range and finishes at Okapuka Lodge. Park, starting and ending in Windhoek and taking about 16 days. The same daily distances covered by a vehicle safari can be com- Another competitive cycling event is the Nedbank Cycle Chal- pleted in a day on a combination bike and safari tour. The tours are lenge, which takes place on the second Sunday of February each supported by professional back-up teams and practical bike trailers year. In 2011, a Mountain Bike Challenge was added, covering 15 that make loading and off-loading fast and easy. Providing bikers km and 30 km. Cyclists can enter to participate over 20-km, 35-km have a reasonable level of fitness, there is no age limit, with many be- and 75-km as individuals, families or teams, and children are wel- ing over 60 years of age. MBN also offers shorter tours that focus on come to participate in the Kidz Challenge. specific areas of Namibia. The annual Namibgrens Marathon includes various trails of 13 The Rock: Spitzkoppe Run and Bike Challenge is a foot-and- km, 38 km and a challenging 73 km route through some of the cycle race around the Spitzkoppe in the Namib. The race starts country's most scenic areas, presenting several challenging obsta- and finishes at the Spitzkoppe Community Campsite entrance gate cles. and follows a route over gravel tracks in an anti-clockwise direction around the Pontok Mountains and Grosse Spitzkoppe massif, fea- The Namibia National Cross Country Championships takes place turing half-marathon running, walking and cycling categories. It is yearly in July. The route measures in at roughly 6.5km per lap, held in September each year and includes a 35 to 70km cycling where cyclists ride between one and five laps, depending on the category. category entered. In 2011 the championship took place at Farm Kleine Kuppe, on the outskirts of Windhoek. Extreme off-road cycling Before embarking on the 24-hour FNB Desert Dash, teams have A new initiative, launched in 2011 by African Extreme Promotions, to prepare themselves mentally and physically to endure intense is the 500km Windhoek Lager Namib Quest Challenge. Made up of heat, strong winds and cold fog as they cycle through the night six stages over six days, riders depart from Windhoek, cycle over the with endless horizons stretching ahead. With an option of four Khomas Hochland, through the Namib and finish at Walvis Bay. entry categories to choose from, riders commit themselves to completing a minimum of 140 km (teams of four people), 200 km The annual Klein-Aus Vista Mountain Bike Challenge takes place (teams of two people) and a daunting 340 km for solo entrants. in April. This very tough experience is a challenging event on There is also a category for tandems. The route follows the C26 mostly single-track mountain bike trails in the Aus Mountains. In out of Windhoek, continues along the D1982 down the Us Pass 2012 it will be a two-day event and participants can compete in ei- and then crosses to the C28 via D1985 into Swakopmund. ther a marathon 55 km or a half marathon of 30 km. There are separate categories for men, women and juniors. Competitive cycling

96 Amongst a large portfolio of cycling events, the Rock and Rut Moun- Quadbiking tainbike Club also organises several Cross Country races each year. One of the best ways to access parts of the sand dunes that even 4x4s can't reach is on a quad-bike. Many lodges around Paragliding the country offer quad-bike outings to view game and scenery. The dunes south of Swakopmund provide among the safest loca- Quad-biking activities feature especially prominently in the tions in the world to learn the art of paragliding. Even Europeans coastal towns of Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. used to berg-wind conditions travel to Namibia to train in the harsher conditions of the interior. The dune belt between Swakop There is considerable controversy over the use of quad-bikes in the and Walvis Bay, especially the dunes overlooking Long Beach sand dunes, as it can be destructive if conducted in a careless and (Langstrand), are favourite spots. The fresh southwesterly winds of- irresponsible manner, posing a threat to animal species and plant fer ideal ‘lift’, and once air-borne there are spectacular views of the life in the sand-dune areas. desert and ocean. To guard against environmental damage, prospective quad- Namib Gliding offers a half-day introductory course that includes bikers are requested to go on the guided trips offered by reputa- at least two ground-skimming flights, full day flights, a basic pilot’s ble operators, which guarantee experiencing the sheer thrill of license course and tandem flights. Paragliding enthusiasts occasion- riding a quad-bike through Namibia's boundless expanses of ally undertake powered paragliding excursions along the coast. shifting sand dunes in specially designated areas. In Namibia paragliding is usually done with a guide who knows the conditions and flying sites in Namibia. Safaris A wide variety of safaris can be organized by tour operators, rang- The Namibian coast, where the dunes range from 70–150 meters, ing from self-drives, fly-ins, bus tours and overlander tours, to is one of the great training and fun-flying sites in the world. The camel safaris, horse safaris, walking safaris, and privately guided dunes are regulated by the local training school to insure safety and safaris, to name a few. It is possible to see the Big 5 in Namibia, reduce overcrowding. Current tours are offered from October to and the possibilities are truly endless. March, which is the main season and the best flying times in Na- mibia. Tours include all transfers, specialized training in strong wind, reverse launch techniques, accommodation, guiding and per- Stargazing mits. With its generally cloudless night sky, especially in the dry winter months, minimal contamination by artificial light and air pollution, Photography and excellent view of the southern constellations, Namibia has su- Namibia is a photographer’s paradise and although no Namibian perb stargazing conditions. As such it is favored by professional and companies currently specialize exclusive in photographic tours, it amateur astronomers alike. is easy to arrange an exclusive tour with many tour operators, some guided by professional photographers. Famous places to pho- Namibia was chosen as the best site for the multi-national Max tograph include the dunes of Sossusvlei, the Etosha National Park, Planck High Energy Stereoscopic System experiment (H.E.S.S.), the Fish River Canyon, the Himbas, historical monuments and now fully operational on Farm Göllschau near the Gamsberg. other places of interest. Many lodges have medium-sized telescopes (up to 16" diameter) for use by guests, and provide novice stargazing guests with a laymen’s

97 introduction to astrology. The Khomas Hochland/Gamsberg area west of Windhoek has the Tandem jumps are offered daily by operators in Swakopmund. third-clearest, least light-polluted sky in the world. An impressive When skydiving, the tandem pair boards the aircraft at Swakop- 'farm' of telescopes and other equipment is maintained by the mund airﬁeld. The plane ascends to 10 000 feet, at which point the German-based International Amateur Observatory at the guest tandem exits the aircraft. After a 30-second free fall, the tandem farm Hakos on top of the Gamsberg Pass, two hours' drive away master opens the parachute and the tandem pair glides down to a from Windhoek. tiptoe.

A yearly event is organized by the Southern Stargazers and is open Soaring to star-lovers from all calibers. It is usually held over a weekend in The name Bitterwasser, located in the southeast of the country, June or July, depending on the most favorable conditions for star- has become synonymous with the sport of soaring (also referred to gazing. The 2012 event will take place from 15 to 17 June on the as gliding) ever since the late Peter Kayssler began logging vast dis- farm Otjiwa, outside Otjiwarongo. Contact Lynette le Roux at 081 tances on his farm in the early 1960s. A combination of the ideal 128 1517. altitude (1 250 metres), stable weather conditions and clear skies creates conditions reputed to be amongst the best in the world. Be- SOLNA, Namibia’s first space observation learning centre, is a tween November and January, the high season for soaring, Bitter- company that deals with astronomy education, astrophotography, wasser becomes a hive of activity, with soarers from Germany, telescope sales and stargazing tourism. France, Switzerland, Belgium and elsewhere descending on the centre. Soaring altitudes vary from 2 000–4 500 meters. Guest Skydiving Farm Kiripotib also offers gliding. Namibia's premier drop zone is located just outside the coastal town of Swakopmund. The scenery viewed whilst floating peace- Surfing fully under an inflated parachute is simply breathtaking. Some sky- With waves ranging in length between 150 and 300 meter and diving clubs have been operating since 1980, and carry on a long with a swell size of about 2 meter, surfing, although not as popular, tradition of high-quality skydiving, training and fun that has always is possible at Cape Cross where waves are rated as the favourites in been associated with the coastal town. Namibia. The wave quality is described as world class and very con- sistent. Surfers need to be mindful of the resident seal colony when There are two skydiving clubs in Swakopmund that offer a profes- tackling the waves. sional training service. If you are already a skydiver, you can ar- Click here to watch a surfing video in Namibia. range a scheduled jump, and if you are a novice, there are two op- Wellness tions. You can complete a one-day training course that will qualify Wellness is a holistic approach to health that combines all aspects you for a static line jump on the same day, meaning that you are of physical, mental and spiritual well being to realign mind, body tied to the aeroplane with a special cord that automatically opens and soul. Many lodges offer smaller wellness centers, while others, your parachute. Or you can do a much shorter course and com- like Gocheganas, specializes specifically in wellness. Depending plete a tandem, freefall jump. A tandem jump means that you are on the individual facilities, a large variety of packages and wellness physically strapped to a qualified instructor. You jump out of the treatments are offered, ranging from outdoor massages to de-stress plane together, freefall for 30 seconds or so, and the instructor and detoxification packages as well as personal training and nutri- makes sure your parachute opens. tional consultations.

98 Windsurﬁng Namibia’s dams, the Atlantic Ocean and Walvis Bay Lagoon lend themselves to a variety of water sports. With its fresh southwesterly breezes, the Walvis Bay Lagoon is one of the world’s hotspots for windsurﬁng.

The Lüderitz Speed Challenge, a competition for speed sailors, is held annually. The first Lüderitz Speed Challenge was held in Sep- tember and October 2007, with a number of impressive performances by entrants suddenly placing Lüderitz on the world-sailing map. In 2009 the world speed record for kite surfing was set here, and 2010 was the first time in the history of speed sailing that three different sailing disciplines were included. These were hydrofoil boating, windsurfing and kite surfing.

99 NAMIBIA KEY ISSUES

Understanding some Key Issues in Namibia In case anyone asks you… Political history According to Herodotus, the first sailors to circumnavigate the continent of A quick historical overview: Africa were Phoenicians. In 1486 the Portuguese navigator Diego Cão Namibia was proclaimed a German protectorate by Bismarck in 1884. The planted a stone cross or padrão at Cape Cross, about 130 km north of conquest of German South West Africa by South African forces during Swakopmund. A second cross was planted in 1488 by Bartolomeu Dias at World War I resulted in Namibia coming under South African administra- Dias Point in the bay of Angra Pequena (Little Bay), the Lüderitz of today. tion in 1920. A long war between the occupying South African forces and Travelling overland from South Africa, Jacobus Coetsé was the first white the Swapo (South West Africa People’s Organization) liberation movement man to reach Namibia, the land across the Garieb (Orange) River, referred started in 1966. to then as Transgarieb. The Swedish adventurer and explorer, Charles John In 1989 the implementation of United Nations Resolution 435 for free and Andersson, was the first person to refer to today’s Namibia as South West fair elections resulted in Swapo coming to power. On 21 March 1990, follow- Africa, as he called it in his travel journals. The first missionaries established ing 106 years of foreign rule, Namibia achieved independence and Sam Nu- mission stations at Warmbad and Blydeverwacht in 1805. joma was sworn in as the country’s first president. He stepped down in 2005 Mining after serving three terms and was succeeded by Hifikepunye Pohamba. Na- Understanding Mining (click here for an article on Uranium Mining) mibia's latest national and presidential elections took place in November 2009 with regional and local elections in 2010. The Swapo Party retained the From the ghost town at Kolmanskop, the center of diamond mining in the majority and its presidential candidate, Hifikepunye Pohamba, will be Presi- early 1920s where dreams of riches, briefly fulfilled, returned to dust to the dent of Namibia until 2014. active uranium mines that are dotted across sections of the desert today, Na- Government mibia’s development and the mining industry share a long history. Namibia is ruled by a Multiparty Parliament and has a democratic constitution. The president is voted in directly by the electorate for a five-year term Diamonds are still mined but, after more than 100 years, they are found and is supported by the Prime Minister and Cabinet. Parliament is com- mainly off shore near Orangemund in the extreme south of the country. prised of two houses; one is elected directly and the other indirectly by the Copper is mined near Tsumeb in the north and small prospectors still country’s regions. The Government’s policy of national reconciliation and search the country’s central mountains for semi-precious stones. Yet cur- unity embraces the concepts of tolerance, respect for differing political rently it is uranium that figuratively fuels the mining industry. views, and racial and ethnic harmony. The Constitution provides for the division of power between the executive, legislature and judiciary. Namibia is now the fourth-largest exporter of non-fuel minerals in Africa, and also the world’s fourth-largest producer of uranium; it is the fifth cur- History rently in identified Uranium deposits worldwide. Namibia, Niger and Namibia’s varied geographical features have played a significant role in the South Africa are currently the only three African producers of uranium, history of the Namibian people. In pre-colonial times a relatively stable wa- which is used mainly to fuel commercial nuclear power plants. ter supply and the well-wooded terrain in the north-eastern regions of the country encouraged cattle farming and agricultural practices by the Namibia has a “Chamber of Mines,” dedicated to protecting the interest Owambo people and tribes along the Okavango River. of member organisations, to upholding mining practice in Namibia to the Among the earliest inhabitants of the central and southern areas were the highest standards, observing international conventions and ensuring posi- San/Bushmen, who were hunter-gatherers; the Damara, about whom little tive development of Namibia’s reputation as a mining nation. Namibia is known other than that they were hunters and to a lesser extent pastoral- knows it is essential to integrate environmental, economic and social aspects ists; and the Nama, who were nomadic cattle farmers. through all phases of mineral production from exploration through con-

101 struction, operation and mine-site closure. As one operating company repre- Okahandja Country Hotel, all of which can take more than 100 people. sentative put it, “Failure of one to comply will impact all and this will have detrimental effects on the industry as a whole. The eyes of the world have The Sakopmund Hotel & Entertainment Centre, Hansa Hotel, Rössmund always been scrutinizing the nuclear industry and we cannot afford any- Lodge, and Hotel Pelican Bay offer conference facilities in and around the thing but the highest standards of environmental and radiation safety man- coastal cities of Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. The National Marine and Re- agement.’’ search Centre in Swakopmund also has space for delegates.

If you’d like more information on mining in Namibia, please read the de- Many guest farms and most guest lodges in Namibia have small facilities for tailed article below. conferences, always with the added bonus of having other attractions to make them special as a venue. They are often situated in scenically beauti- Seals ful surroundings, offering activities that are exciting and challenging. A Click here to read an article on Seals in Namibia novel way to conference is on the Desert Express train between Windhoek and Swakopmund, which has facilities for up between 50–120 delegates. Hosting a Conference or Meeting in Namibia Beneﬁts Conference Facilities Doing business in Namibia is safe, easy and unique! About 13% of foreign Namibia has gained an international reputation as a stable multicultural visitors to Namibia visit the country for business purposes. Direct ﬂights democracy with strong support systems capable of providing facilities for from Frankfurt make for an easy European connection and Namibia’s international conferences for more than 2 000 delegates. world-class telecommunications system ensures that business travelers remain connected. The largest conference venue in Windhoek is the Safari Court Conference Centre, which can accommodate as many as 2 400 delegates theatre-style, Conferences are enhanced by Namibia’s well-structured and efficiently organ- one 800 in conference style and one 200 in banqueting style. The Centre ised tourism industry, enabling organisers to offer pre- and post-conferencing has a computerised sound and lighting system and humidity-controlled air- tours and activities of a high standard. conditioning. The Windhoek Country Club & Resort offers a high-standard conference The available infrastructure in Namibia, catering for the MICE market is facility equipped to accommodate up to 800 people in its auditorium. by far more than adequate, with the capital city of Windhoek of course featuring the widest selection of conference facilities. Conferences can be ar- Another major mid-city conference venue in Windhoek, the NamPower Con- ranged to suit small to larger groups in many parts of the country, includ- vention Centre, can accommodate up to 600 delegates in its multifunctional ing through some very creative techniques, be it out in the desert in mobile auditorium. The facility consists of two spacious conference venues that can settings or on a game lodge or in the capital city itself. be divided into two sections, three breakaway rooms, state-of-the-art Video Conferencing Bureau and a Business Centre with seven fully equipped work- stations. Who to contact? Other major conference facilities in and around Windhoek are available at the Places mentioned above can be contacted individually; otherwise the Na- Hilton Hotel, Kalahari Sands Hotel & Casino, Hotel Fürstenhof, Heja Game mibia Tourism Board also has an extensive list of conferencing venues all Lodge, Roof of Africa, Hotel Thuringerhof, Midgard Country Estate, and over Namibia.

102 Downloadable Content (Coming Soon) • Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park • Bushmanland and Khaudum National Park Itineraries • Fish River Canyon We have not listed speciﬁc companies, but we have provided suggested itin- • Etosha National Park eraries for the following interest groups. Click on the hyperlink to download • Kavango Zambezi Tranfrontier Park (KAZA) the itinerary: • Kolmanskop - Classic Namibia • Luderitz - +55 in Age (Adventurer Demographic) • Namib-Naukluft National Park - Namibia plus an excursion to Victoria Falls • Quiver Tree Forest - 4 day extension from Botswana • Sossusvlei - 4 day extension from South Africa • Swakopmund & Walvis Bay - Caprivi Region • Twyfelfontein - Community Based Tourism • Kalahari - Cultural tourism • The Skeleton Coast - Cycling • Damaraland - Dune trips • Kunene Region - Family - Flying Safari Images - Hiking trails Click here to go to our Image Gallery which has images available for you to - Honeymoon download for free. - Hunting - Photographic Tours The End - Rowing/Rafting or other Water based activities - Safari/Conservation interest If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact our Trade Liai- Destination Copy son, Natasha Martin, at [email protected] You can also click here to download Destination Copy for your use in mar- keting materials. Destination Copy is available for the following: • Capital City • Central Region • South Region • Namib/Coast Region • East Region • NorthWest Region • North East Region • Caprivi Region • Kavango Region • Communal Conservancies

103 Quiz 1

Question 1 of 10 What other currency is widely accepted in Namibia?

A. Euro

B. Deutchmark

C. South African Rand

Check Answer

104 PHOTO GALLERY

See amazing photos of this spectacular country with Endless Horizons Gallery 14.1 Namibia

Enjoy this amazing images! 1 of 19

106