INTRODUCTION In 1876 Charles Worthy wrote “The History of the Manor and Church of Winkleigh”, the first and only book on Winkleigh to be published. Although this valuable little handbook contains many items of interest, not all of which fall within the range of its title, it is not a complete history and consequently fails to meet the requirements of the Devonshire Association. More than a dozen years ago a friend remarked to me that the monks of Crediton at one time used to walk to Hollacombe in order to preach at the ancient chapel of Hollacombe Barton. I was so surprised by this seemingly long trek that I made enquiries of the Devonshire Association. I was referred to the Tower Library of Crediton Church where it became obvious that Hollacombe Crediton and not Hollacombe Winkleigh was implied and quite a different proposition. Meantime the Honorary General Editor of the Parochial Section (Hugh R. Watkins Esq.) suggested that I should write a history of Winkleigh. The undertaking was accepted although it was clear that my only qualification for the task was a deep regard for the associations of the parish combined with a particularly intense love for the hamlet of Hollacombe. The result of this labour of love, produced in scanty spare time, and spread over the intervening years should be considered with these points in view. The proof of this present pudding will be measured by the ease with which the less immediately interesting parts can be assimilated by the general reader. Due care has been taken to verify all the subject matter. Some items, however, I have included unchecked because they are of interest. Whenever this has been done sufficient warning is given in the text, and the responsibility remains mine. Yet the whole work has been written with a sincere desire that it should be “History”. All the material required by the Association has been sought for, although its presentation in a more literary form may prevent easy reference. It is felt however that the aim is readability and not ease of reference and no further apologies are required on the score. The destruction of many valuable books in the City Library Exeter at the time of the German raids in 1942, however, cut short full consultation and use of their facilities. But it is doubtful whether the history could ever have been complete, even with their aid. Four main points require elucidation in my mind 1. Was the Burg, Burgh or Borough Court of Saxon Post-Conquest origin? 2. What was the origin and the status of Winkleigh’s own FOUR MEN? 3. There are no records concerning the foundation or dedication of the Parish Church. 4. It has not been possible to record any customs of the four manors or to gain any information remotely bearing on them from the oldest inhabitants, although a centenarian was numbered among them. Had these points been properly answered I would have felt more satisfaction in presenting this history to the Devonshire Association and to the people of Winkleigh. In a work requiring so much accurate information I am naturally indebted to a host of friends and interested folk for their help. There is insufficient space to mention every name but to all I give my grateful thanks. I am specially grateful to H Tapley Soper Esq. FSA, Mr. Paley and the staff of the Exeter City Library for their courtesy and great help over many years; to the Rev F. Nesbitt MA for manuscript books on Winkleigh Church; to the Rev H J Hodgson MA for notes on the architecture of the Church; to F M Day Esq. MA for identification of some of the flora; to the Rev H J Riddesdell MA for his talks on Rubus; to Mrs. F Rose-Troup F.R. Hist. Soc., on field names; to Miss Ursula Radford for the use of a monograph on the Revd William Davey; and to J. Benson Esq. for unfailing help on doubtful points. My greatest debt is to my nephew, Ralph Molland BA, whose valuable time has been given unstintingly in organizing the sections into readable chapters. His help with the social and agricultural aspects has helped forward the work considerably and eased my task. To him I owe more than I can express in this short acknowledgement. LS Molland Exmouth 16 February 1949 CONTENTS CHAPTER 1. The Parish of Winkleigh 2. Flora and Fauna 3. Etymology 4. Winkleigh from Earliest Times 5. The Religious History of the Parish 6. Winkleigh Parish Church 7. Other Places of Worship 8. Winkleigh People 9. Social Changes 10. Folklore and Customs 11. Winkleigh’s Bread and Butter 12. Amenities of Today Appendix One: Apportionment of Rent Charge Lists Appendix Two: A Summary of the “June Returns” Map. Winkleigh and its surrounding parishes Map. The Ancient Defensive System CHAPTER 1 The Parish of Winkleigh Winkleigh is customarily described as being situated in “North” Devon and, more rarely in “Northwest” Devon. It would be more correct however, to place the parish in the Mid – Devon area. The village itself stands on a hill, over 500 feet in height, whose location is given as 50° 53" latitude and 3° 52" longitude. Its highest beacon (640 feet) which may have served in ancient times for a signalling station, is visible for many miles around. Today it provides a magnificent prospect of the surrounding parishes1 and of Dartmoor in the distance, from Cawsand Beacon in the East to Yes Tor in the West. (see map P ) Other details can help us to visualise a village. Exeter, the capital of Devon, lies 21¾ miles2 to the South east along the main road to North Devon. Crediton is nearer, being only 14½ miles distant. To the Northwest lies Torrington (12½ miles) and Bideford (19¼ miles). Diagonally to this trunk road lies Chulmleigh (6½ miles) and Hatherleigh (7 miles). This route of the “leighs” across the divide is joined at Townsend by roads to North Tawton (5½ miles) and Okehampton (10 miles away). Winkleigh is not directly served by the railways and these roads have to bear the main traffic. Eggesford (4¾ miles) and North Tawton are the only stations of the Southern Railway within reach. Having related Winkleigh to its surrounding parishes and towns let us examine the external features of the parish itself. The area of the parish according to the Ordnance Survey maps of 1888 was 9218.229 acres. On examining the acreage given at the time of the Apportionment3, that is 1843, Mr. Ralph Molland observed that there was a difference of 100 acres in the sum total of the nearly 3000 enclosures of the parish. When checking the official population figures, it was noticed from 1801 to 1881 the area was invariably given as 9118 acres, and from 1891 onwards as 9218 acres. The Director General of Ordnance when appealed to was unable to explain the discrepancy4. An earlier survey map of the North of the parish was unobtainable after the destruction of the city library in 1942, but there is a difference, although very slight, in the parish boundary as compared with the Ordnance Survey map in the region of Smiths Stream. This freshlet has altered its course little and the Ordnance map follows the new line in the direction of the water. This would not, however, make up the difference in the two maps. That is so large an area (a 100 in figures, or almost the size of the average Devon farm) can be added to a civil parish and no 1 Adjoining parishes are: Ashreigney, Wembworthy, Brushford, Coldridge, Bondleigh, Dowland and Dolton. The boundaries stretch beyond longitude 3° 49'on the eastern side and from latitude 50° 49' in the south (Bondleigh) to 50° 49' in the north (Ashreigney). Hollacombe Moor, Smiths Stream and Hollacombe Water form the boundary on the North, Betham Lane, Prettyford stream, Bullow Brook and the Taw on the east,, the road from Bondleigh to Cadditon on the south-east, Walson Moor, Broadwoodkelly on the south, the road from Summers Moor Cross to Westwood, the stream from Chubhouse Water to Iddesleigh on the south west, and from the junction of the Henscroft and Smythstone roads to Hollacombe Moor on the east. Where roads or streams do not divide the parishes, hedges form the boundary in almost every case. It is only at Taw Bridge and the North West part of Hollacombe Moor that the boundary is not clearly defined in this manner. 2 All distances are measured along roads and not “as the crow flies" 3 Tha apportionment of Rent charge 1843 made in accordance with the Tithes Commutation Act of 1835. See Chapter 11 for further detail. 4 The reply stated that “the area of Winkleigh Parish computed from our original survey of 1888 is 9218.229 acres. This department has no occasion to amend these figures as the parish boundary has not been altered. We cannot of course put any check on the figures given before our survey of 1888 or on those of the original Parish Map of 1843, but it will be seen that from 1891 onwards the accepted area is that given above”. explanation be forthcoming from the Ordnance Survey will cause surprise to many5. But had enquiries been made 60 years earlier, the discrepancy would have been suitably explained at that time, no doubt. The map which is included in this text shows the general shape of the parish. It is not unlike a reclining cross, the irregular lines of which are 22 miles in circumference and 5½ miles across and 4½ miles in breadth.